So do I. However, he didn't include the prep work and materials to get the pad ready to build the forms and lay down the vapor barrier and mesh. Stripping & levelling the original dirt,grass, etc. Buying and spreading the gravel base, etc. Still cheaper to DIY but factor in all materials & time.
I would definitely rent a bull float and a fresno, will save you soooo much time and agro, and will give a great finish. Also viewers if you don't lift the mesh during the pour it's pretty much useless, and hold it back from the form edges 4 inches or it will rust out.
When you lay rebar into a section that will have concrete poured into it, you need to raise the rebar up so the concrete will flow under it. That will strengthen the pad.
In 2008, I decided to build a 12 by 8 pool shed to accommodate the pumps/filters and some extra space for equipment storage, etc...we set up a wooden former on a compacted gravel base and used the mesh to give the base strength, J bolts to accommodate the framing tie-down in windy conditions, etc. I used a local concrete company to deliver our 1 cubic yard of needed concrete (concrete was probably 4-5 inch depth with small undulations in the sub base) and barrowed it quickly from curbside to the base site using two barrows (two wheeler barrows to avoid spillage and save our backs!)....I was worried about messing it up but we were as prepared as we could be and..... the result was fantastic! And to this day, no cracks in the base, the shed still looks amazing and I saved a packet by doing it myself with my lovely wife assisting....seeing this video brings it all back to me! Having an assistant or two is definitely the key, depending upon the size of the pad....
I’m the estimator for a concrete company in Nebraska and for a 4” pad with wire mesh we are usually about $5-$6 setup and poured. Unless you’re doing fence posts, do what Jeff says and order a truck. It A MILLION times faster and can end up saving you a lot of time and money. Great video Jeff!
Great video, one thing I learned that really changed my concrete finished product for the better were the following steps. Pour concrete, screed immediately, tramp down aggregate, screed again and cut in edges. Then wait until all bleed water evaporates, however long that takes. Then start your trowel work. After concrete has setup, wet it down and cover for 3-4 days so it can slowly cure. I didn't know about the vapor barrier, but I'll be sure to lay one down next time. Awesome as always Jeff!
Ahh interesting, although that does make sense, dont have to have a motor to turn the drum..just an auger in the back it looked like to mix it before the chute. So the viability for jobs of all sizes is right up a mixing truck like thats alley.
So, I have been planning a 14 x 20 building to use as a Man Cave golf suite with a launch monitor in it. Building the forms and pouring the concrete is my first step. This video made me feel comfortable doing it with a buddy. I talked to my Nephew who does concrete foundations and finishing and he said this video is great. He actually said I didn't need the mesh because the concrete that I am going to use is strong enough on its own, but I am still going to use it. Thanks for the video, I'll come back and share how my buddy and I did with the slab when I am done. You are awesome. I have watched several of your videos and you always make it simple and give me tips that I don't think about. In this video you gave me the idea of putting a vapor barrier in. I would not have done that. Thanks again for another great video.
Great video. I love how you show your mistakes and the things you've learned. I've done many concrete pours with a little mixer. If you are mixing your own concrete or have a lot of little projects you can order a dump truck load of aggregate that is mixed for making concrete ( correct ratio of sand and gravel ). In my area you pay $630 CAD delivered for 12 yards. You then just buy the cement bags and use 6 parts aggregate to 1 part cement when mixing way cheaper than buying the readymix bags.
Love the cost comparison and contrasting with the previous shed. Sometimes I have more time than money, sometimes I don’t. This gives me a great way to think about a project. Thanks!
I did this in the autumn of 2020. Hired a company in the GTA (Maple) 1833mix4u, who delivered to Mississauga. This was brutal work, the sweating you see at 9:19 is nothing compared to what I looked like at the end of it. I'd do it again with what I've learned, definitely mix it wet, I did not and it hardened on me as I was bull floating it, I didn't get to put an edge on it. Secondly, if you can get more people to help, do it, I had my wife and my father, it wasn't enough (we had to wheelbarrow concrete from the front to the back and then spread it out). And lastly more spikes in the ground around the corners, I had two in each corner, and the corners still blew out on me. The cost of the concrete if anyone is interested, was $495 (CAD including tax) for 1.25 m3 at 32 MPa. I lost a wheelbarrow in the process (broke due to the weight) so budget for a good one or a rental.
The cost comparison and break down of the projects is an excellent idea. It helps people like me who are just getting started on more labor intensive projects.
I remember making a patio with my Dad. It was about the same area. My brother and I worked two very long days mixing in a wheel barrel. Yes, a wheel barrel. I’m now a believer. Get help when you need it, save money where you can. Good video. Thanks.
Reminds me of my young son and I; me teaching him how to work and him teaching me he's totally dazed and confused, which reminds me of my dad and I working together when I was young. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Lost our house in a house fire this spring so I'm getting a crash course on all things homebuilding. Finances dictate we really need to do as much ourselves as possible. First is getting some education on the whole process, otherwise we don't even know what questions to ask. Second is identifying all the options, figuring out the most important places to spend our money and trying to find tradesmen who are willing to let us work with them. Your videos and approach are very helpful, thank you.
Thanks for the video, I am gearing up for a handful of DIY projects, and have spent hours watching your videos. A couple recommendations on concrete from a structural engineer. When placing the wire mesh, you want it up about 2" clear to the top of the slab (about 1.5" could be OK since the slab will be interior once the job is complete. As laid out, it won't do much for your slab since the concrete didn't have much opportunity to get fully encased in concrete, and since any forces that would tend to crack the top of the slab will not be resisted by the wire. If you use spacers at the bottom to lift it up, it will help quite a bit with cracking from curing and from settlement over time. Also, with the size of your slab, cutting one or more control joints may have been helpful. As the slab cures, it tends to shrink, which causes it to essentially pull away from itself. If you cut control joints, the concrete can crack there, and stay largely intact between the joints, without those joints, those cracks will occur fairly randomly. Covering the slab with wet burlap or curing compound also helps control cracks since it keeps the top of the slab from drying out quickly.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. Planning on building a shed and greenhouse in Alaska, and a practise shed back home in Jamaica. These videos have been the most helpful source I’ve found. Thank you.
Bro, you're a pro and enjoy your videos. I do have a suggestion when doing this though. I personally staple gun and tackle the plastic to the form board to be sure i get a tight pull and ensure the plastic covers the area completely without an uncover spot.
in 1992 me and 18 friends poured 45 yards of cement for my shop floor. We mixed it by hand in one day. Almost 30 years later I only have 2 small cracks. In 2019 We had professionals pour the floor for our new house and already have more than 2 cracks. I was a little afraid that your forms might move, but it looks like you got a fine job.
Thanks for doing the comparison between partial DIY vs hiring it out. Keep it up, great to see and helps to inform the decisions we have to make as property owners.
Hi Jeff! I love it that I support your channel because you offer such fantastic information and shortcuts. I love your energy because it gets me excited about my own projects! Thank you for all of the time and expense that you and your team put into making these videos for us! As for the concrete...I don't understand the purpose of the wire mesh if you're not going to put it close to the center of the concrete. It serves no purpose resting on the bottom of the concrete. I know the concrete stays are tall, but maybe a few stones underneath the mesh would hold it up off the ground a little. You are the first person I have ever known that mentions spraying something on the forms to help with releasing it from the hardened concrete! I love that! THANKS!!!
Form release oil is typically used for when you would be taking off the forms before it fully hardens like when you would do stairs. usually it isnt necessary on this job unless you are planning on finishing the edges for a smooth looking finish. Sorry im a year late to this reply.
I get the vapour barrier, but when the concrete has tension cracks it will collect water underneath the vapour barrier, the water will freeze at night, and create cracks from the bottom up. Would have much rather used Rebar instead of mesh and paid for Fibre to be mixed into the concrete. it has 8X better strength that way, given all the prep work under the concrete was done proper.Getting a higher MPA like 34. Also to prevent weeds and such from growing in the cracks, also use Filter Cloth under the concrete instead of vapour barrier, that way you can always wash out the tension cracks when they get full and allow water to pass throw rather then flood the concrete and risk problems. Also you can buy 4X8 foam panels which helps a lot with keeping the concrete dry and well insulated.
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY, Weeds will not form as long as the cracks are either filled or covered, in this case a shed/workshop you mentioned. As for cracks, they will form as the concrete expands and contracts over time. The purpose of all these added building techniques and technologies such as fibre and rebar are that the concrete is stronger, but also more flexible and resistant to cracking via movement. Practical Engineering made a pretty informative video on the basics of concrete and why we do things a certain way. for example, the wiremesh you put down in this video will not serve as a great strengthener as it is sitting on the gravel, not inside the concrete where it will take up the tension of movement. All the things we do to make concrete work last for decades to come.
@@mattcraztex9940 TBH, had he received a Inspection Jeff would have failed the inspection. The strength of the concrete is eroded when the Mesh/Rebar is either at the bottom or the top of the concrete, it needs to be "roughly halfway". GA still freezes and it thaws even when compacted it does take longer....but it will happen. WE also have to admit that Jeff is "Flipping" this house. That Shed will last 20+ years Concrete wise, even with that one misstep with the Chicken wire (That is what I call it). I would have prefered 10mm rebar and a float. So in the Grand speaking about this Project. I would have used a 2X4 to level and then install the "J" Bolts and let it sit. Come back after a few coolies and get rid of the ridges and edge it with your Edging Trowel, after that wait another hour or so and finish the inside with a 12" Steel Trowel if you want it to look like your basement. Make sure your "Slump" is no more than a 4. Too much water added to the concrete is bad for any floor. A dehydrated floor will get stronger over time with the added water from the ground. Hence the wording Water will "Wick" into concrete. For a shed it isn't important, for a house? Maybe...but I doubt it. Unless you get a monsoon once a month.
@@Delekham Pretty much my point. I build houses so I know how WE do it to go above and beyond our competition. The value of the project comes out when it's for your self, But especially time to sell, Especially your are a reputable builder that dose not skip steps. I never use chicken wire, but I always use fibre, high MPA and have also invested in a concrete vibrator and a float. Tools that make a project last forever. I do understand that Jeff is a " Home Renovator DIY guy" Pretty obvious that he has not been around professional New Builds very often as he was thrilled with the difference in hand mixing vs Redi mix. Watering the concrete after it has time to dry is also fantastic since the concrete will have ample time to soak up moisture and cure to max hardness.
Thanks once again Jeff. You made my decision easy. I will be pouring my own slab. It is twice the size of what you just did and when you mentioned that a contractor would charge $3500!! for you and x2 for me... welp its a no brainer.
Would have been nice to see the prep work on how to prepare the pad prior to concrete(how deep to dig, how much gravel, gravel size, how to compact, etc.) Thanks.
I subscribed because of the cost breakdown of the various options - of course I like doing it all myself, however I don't always have the time - so much appreciated!
A couple of 2x4s screwed together a little wider than the form makes it easy to get the concrete within the range of level. Some scrap plywood a 2x4 and some fasteners you can make a cheap bull float.
I drive a concrete truck and learned a lot about concrete. For example, after mixing at the plant, you have 3 hours to get it off the truck before it becomes unworkable, (the concrete rapidly begins to lose its strength and is unworkable) The same applies to short loads trucks but the 3 hours begin at mixing time. Also, Some companies place concrete without forms and rely on heavy equipment to set limits, finish all in one step. Most finishers use lightweight concrete drag and 2x4x14 or less aluminum skreet tools to obtain a near level finish followed by a finisher with a long finishing drag tool.
I'm thinking of making my side entrance driveway longer, thanks for the video. Shouldn't the metal wiring have been pulled up into the middle of the concrete?
Middle would be better, but I bet this would be fine. The rebar is just there to help with tension pressures. The concrete can handle compressive force with ease, but when it is pulled apart it needs something to hold it together. The rebar at the bottom isn't optimal, but truthfully it's better than nothing and likely good enough. My patio was poured at least 30 years ago, and while it's looking a bit rough, it's fine without rebar.
Hi Jeff, I really enjoy your videos as I tend to be more of a DIY guy myself. I'm newly in Idaho from California. I appreciate your costs breakdowns too so I get an idea of what I'm in for budget wise. You've even inspired me to attack drywall fixes and not be terrified of them :)
Thanks Jeff I watch many of your videos and have received much help from them. I have built a deck, completely renovated my bathroom and am currently building a 12x16 shed. I am DIY'er without a lot of the fancy tools. I have found if you are creative and use what you have you will get a decent job in the end. I saved $10 000 doing my deck by myself and over $5 000 on the bathroom so thanks again.
Awesome video! I'm planning to construct a storage shed this spring. I have been debating whether or not to mix the concrete myself. Now I know what I'm going to do.
Mesh IN your concrete is a must. Concrete will always crack, the mesh ensures the slab stays together and keeps it stable while frost pushes on it. Make sure you hook under it with a tooth of your rake as you put so the concrete flows under it and suspends the mesh in the concrete. If your going to lay it on the ground and pour over the top of it then save your money and skip the mesh as it's not really doing anything when installed improperly. I love your content and been watching for 8 months despite doing it all day long at work. That is the only complaint I have had to date. Keep the videos coming.
I forgot to say, nice job . By the way About 8yrs ago I built a retaining wall with concrete block and filled them with concrete and rebar. 180 bags two guys by hand. I still can't look at cement bags.
I like those kinds of cement trucks. There’s no rush because of the concert is getting hard from pre-mixing before they get to the site. Also you don’t have leftovers or being short.
Love ur show I EVEN share with my architect son...... LOL he like you Also keep up what u r doing .. n costing it is sooooo valuable in decision making....
this video was great. Im a new contractor, only been at it for about a year and 8 months. Videos like this help me understand what it might take on certain projects and now im not discouraged in taking on jobs like this and i have a general understanding what it will take to bring in a cement company. Thank-you for the content, i always appreciate it.
Jeff, did you pull up on the wire mesh during install? It is supposed to be in middle of slab, for structural strength. Just curious, I didn’t see or hear it mentioned. Thanks, great channel
LOL, you know he didn't. And no screed board? Really? DIY doesn't need to be poor quality. I would far rather screed and float a slab than grind it! It's kinda like using a grinder on poor welds.
Most people can't afford the expense or want to pay for a truck to come and pour. I know you said you aren't a concrete guy, I would love to see you do a diy dry pour concrete slab project.
That truck is amazing. I still remember horror stories of cement trucks getting stuck in traffic where the mix would cure in the barrel and need to be jackhammered out. Not only losing the money from that load, but also being labor intensive to get up and running again. I imagine this system would be waaay easier to clean afterwards, too. Plus you only pay for what you need.
Had a 20x20 ft garage build in Calgary, if I remember correctly from the invoice the concrete pad with retaining walls was around 3500ish, that was in mid 2021
You pile up the overflow concrete into a nice little pile. You don’t make multiple piles. It’s easier to dispose of when it hardens and it’s easy to pick off of when still wet if you need a little extra.
Not bad for someone who doesn't work with concrete very often. I love those mix trucks also. I worked for Rembco running a mix truck and grout plant through college in 02-06. Back then we had to bust the concrete bags on the side of the mix truck. Talk about getting in shape try busting 500 bags average daily. We had a guy that set our company record busting 880+ bags in one day on one job of those portland type two 94 lbs bags.
Hi Jeff. Great job guys. That concrete truck was awsome. Great idea. Can't wait to see the shed being built. Take care and stay say. All the best. 🇬🇧👍👌
SO GLAD I came across this video. Making plans for a 12x20’ shed build and seriously considering a slab foundation now. Live in Ottawa myself… just emailed Mirad for a quote!
As somebody who did concrete pads for 2.5 years I would say mix on site is nice. We made the mistake ONCE of going to get lunch after pour bc it was way to wet to work. Come to find out only about 100 sqft of it was really wet and the rest was basically dry... Luckily we were able to soak it with water and bring it back to life. But we learned from our mistake and never did that again.
Right now concrete delivered is $125 a yard ($75 delivery fee if less than 7 yards) in Florida, finishing the concrete is going to run about $95 a yard. As far as groundwork, compacting stone, and rebar, I haven’t priced that, but it doesn’t vary to much.
That was a real feel good show. You guys are the real deal, good people. Thank you, Max for sharing what you and your wife were able to do with your home. And thank you, Jeff for the channel and everything you share with the little guys, DIYers like me.
I have never seen a truck that mixes on the jobsite. Wondering if he uses chemicals to adjust the slump instead of water. Also, if he sets the psi strength as well. Very interesting. Your point of having help is very important even if it is someone who can hand you things. Great video.
Hope you lifted that weld wire remesh with a rake Jeff. You can show where and how to make control cuts for contraction with that trusty dewalt circular saw you love so much! Great how too videos. Can't wait to see you do the driveway next!
That truck is damn impressive and I'm glad I watched this video. Changed my mind on renting a mixer for my next project. Premix is the way to go. Great info. 👍
Thank you Jeff, once again your video has come in a very timely manner as I’m going to put up a shed before the end of this summer here in Australia 🇦🇺 Thank you so very much for the very clear presentation. I look forward to seeing a notification from your channel.
Thanks for the video! Hopefully I find a concrete delivery guy like that in my area since I'm on my own and probably one more guy for a 26'x18'x6" pad....An LLC company gave me a 9K bid...
I like the cost comparison and break down of the projects. It helps people like me who are just getting started with diy stuff.
Cheers more to come .
So do I. However, he didn't include the prep work and materials to get the pad ready to build the forms and lay down the vapor barrier and mesh. Stripping & levelling the original dirt,grass, etc. Buying and spreading the gravel base, etc. Still cheaper to DIY but factor in all materials & time.
@@daleerickson497 he did include it.
@@daleerickson497 f$f$de d'effectuer f$fffc BMW
I would definitely rent a bull float and a fresno, will save you soooo much time and agro, and will give a great finish. Also viewers if you don't lift the mesh during the pour it's pretty much useless, and hold it back from the form edges 4 inches or it will rust out.
When you lay rebar into a section that will have concrete poured into it, you need to raise the rebar up so the concrete will flow under it. That will strengthen the pad.
I didn't see him once raised any of that wire mesh he put on the floor
It’s a shed.
@@HatleyReviews then save the $200 and not use it at all. Its doing nothing flat on the floor.
I like how he’s talking in total amazement at how perfect and efficient the experience was with the concrete guy. Don’t stop winning!
Love the cost breakdown, especially it being in Canadian dollars. Tough to find on RUclips
More to come!
It’s like this man reads my mind, I was just thinking “I wish Jeff did a concrete slab video”
Same
I appreciate the shout-out to the concrete company - I always enjoy seeing people recognized for a job well-done.
In 2008, I decided to build a 12 by 8 pool shed to accommodate the pumps/filters and some extra space for equipment storage, etc...we set up a wooden former on a compacted gravel base and used the mesh to give the base strength, J bolts to accommodate the framing tie-down in windy conditions, etc. I used a local concrete company to deliver our 1 cubic yard of needed concrete (concrete was probably 4-5 inch depth with small undulations in the sub base) and barrowed it quickly from curbside to the base site using two barrows (two wheeler barrows to avoid spillage and save our backs!)....I was worried about messing it up but we were as prepared as we could be and..... the result was fantastic! And to this day, no cracks in the base, the shed still looks amazing and I saved a packet by doing it myself with my lovely wife assisting....seeing this video brings it all back to me! Having an assistant or two is definitely the key, depending upon the size of the pad....
Cheers Neil. no job is too big for DIY!
I’m the estimator for a concrete company in Nebraska and for a 4” pad with wire mesh we are usually about $5-$6 setup and poured. Unless you’re doing fence posts, do what Jeff says and order a truck. It A MILLION times faster and can end up saving you a lot of time and money. Great video Jeff!
Are you in Omaha by chance?
I laughed at my regular guy, used to be around $5/, last time he quoted me $7.50-$8 for a simple driveway
Great video, one thing I learned that really changed my concrete finished product for the better were the following steps.
Pour concrete, screed immediately, tramp down aggregate, screed again and cut in edges. Then wait until all bleed water evaporates, however long that takes. Then start your trowel work. After concrete has setup, wet it down and cover for 3-4 days so it can slowly cure. I didn't know about the vapor barrier, but I'll be sure to lay one down next time. Awesome as always Jeff!
Gotta admit that is pretty cool seeing it mix real time.
I know, right?
Whats the max capacity of his truck compared to a traditional one? Imagine it would be a touch less due to having the 3+ different hoppers etc.
it's actually more since it does not have to be spinning.
Ahh interesting, although that does make sense, dont have to have a motor to turn the drum..just an auger in the back it looked like to mix it before the chute.
So the viability for jobs of all sizes is right up a mixing truck like thats alley.
So, I have been planning a 14 x 20 building to use as a Man Cave golf suite with a launch monitor in it. Building the forms and pouring the concrete is my first step. This video made me feel comfortable doing it with a buddy. I talked to my Nephew who does concrete foundations and finishing and he said this video is great. He actually said I didn't need the mesh because the concrete that I am going to use is strong enough on its own, but I am still going to use it. Thanks for the video, I'll come back and share how my buddy and I did with the slab when I am done. You are awesome. I have watched several of your videos and you always make it simple and give me tips that I don't think about. In this video you gave me the idea of putting a vapor barrier in. I would not have done that. Thanks again for another great video.
Great video. I love how you show your mistakes and the things you've learned. I've done many concrete pours with a little mixer. If you are mixing your own concrete or have a lot of little projects you can order a dump truck load of aggregate that is mixed for making concrete ( correct ratio of sand and gravel ). In my area you pay $630 CAD delivered for 12 yards. You then just buy the cement bags and use 6 parts aggregate to 1 part cement when mixing way cheaper than buying the readymix bags.
Love the cost comparison and contrasting with the previous shed.
Sometimes I have more time than money, sometimes I don’t. This gives me a great way to think about a project.
Thanks!
I did this in the autumn of 2020. Hired a company in the GTA (Maple) 1833mix4u, who delivered to Mississauga. This was brutal work, the sweating you see at 9:19 is nothing compared to what I looked like at the end of it.
I'd do it again with what I've learned, definitely mix it wet, I did not and it hardened on me as I was bull floating it, I didn't get to put an edge on it. Secondly, if you can get more people to help, do it, I had my wife and my father, it wasn't enough (we had to wheelbarrow concrete from the front to the back and then spread it out). And lastly more spikes in the ground around the corners, I had two in each corner, and the corners still blew out on me.
The cost of the concrete if anyone is interested, was $495 (CAD including tax) for 1.25 m3 at 32 MPa. I lost a wheelbarrow in the process (broke due to the weight) so budget for a good one or a rental.
That was the coolest truck I've ever seen
I felt like I was 6 years old that day!
The cost comparison and break down of the projects is an excellent idea. It helps people like me who are just getting started on more labor intensive projects.
I remember making a patio with my Dad. It was about the same area. My brother and I worked two very long days mixing in a wheel barrel. Yes, a wheel barrel. I’m now a believer. Get help when you need it, save money where you can. Good video. Thanks.
Cheers Dana!
Reminds me of my young son and I; me teaching him how to work and him teaching me he's totally dazed and confused, which reminds me of my dad and I working together when I was young. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Lost our house in a house fire this spring so I'm getting a crash course on all things homebuilding. Finances dictate we really need to do as much ourselves as possible. First is getting some education on the whole process, otherwise we don't even know what questions to ask. Second is identifying all the options, figuring out the most important places to spend our money and trying to find tradesmen who are willing to let us work with them. Your videos and approach are very helpful, thank you.
I’m sorry to hear that, I hope you are able to rebuild. Wishing you well!
Hang in there! Hope you'll have a ton of fun while learning and saving money!
Thanks for the video, I am gearing up for a handful of DIY projects, and have spent hours watching your videos. A couple recommendations on concrete from a structural engineer. When placing the wire mesh, you want it up about 2" clear to the top of the slab (about 1.5" could be OK since the slab will be interior once the job is complete. As laid out, it won't do much for your slab since the concrete didn't have much opportunity to get fully encased in concrete, and since any forces that would tend to crack the top of the slab will not be resisted by the wire. If you use spacers at the bottom to lift it up, it will help quite a bit with cracking from curing and from settlement over time.
Also, with the size of your slab, cutting one or more control joints may have been helpful. As the slab cures, it tends to shrink, which causes it to essentially pull away from itself. If you cut control joints, the concrete can crack there, and stay largely intact between the joints, without those joints, those cracks will occur fairly randomly. Covering the slab with wet burlap or curing compound also helps control cracks since it keeps the top of the slab from drying out quickly.
How would we raise the wire? Metal bar? Rocks? Piece of wood?
@@albieoval1657 whatever works. You can support it with a brick or something so you don't have to raise it while your pooring.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge.
Planning on building a shed and greenhouse in Alaska, and a practise shed back home in Jamaica. These videos have been the most helpful source I’ve found.
Thank you.
Bro, you're a pro and enjoy your videos. I do have a suggestion when doing this though. I personally staple gun and tackle the plastic to the form board to be sure i get a tight pull and ensure the plastic covers the area completely without an uncover spot.
in 1992 me and 18 friends poured 45 yards of cement for my shop floor. We mixed it by hand in one day. Almost 30 years later I only have 2 small cracks. In 2019 We had professionals pour the floor for our new house and already have more than 2 cracks. I was a little afraid that your forms might move, but it looks like you got a fine job.
LOVE the cost breakdown. So many channels miss this important info.
Thanks for doing the comparison between partial DIY vs hiring it out. Keep it up, great to see and helps to inform the decisions we have to make as property owners.
Glad it was helpful!
Your info is very helpful. I find it easier to get some help to float it out than hire a contractor. Thankyou for taking the time cost cutting.
Wow talk about the future of concrete pouring.
lol, WE WENT FORMM 1 BAG AT A TIME TO how things will be done in 2050. Cheers!
Thank you for keeping it simple and giving price comparison. Love this video.
Hi Jeff! I love it that I support your channel because you offer such fantastic information and shortcuts. I love your energy because it gets me excited about my own projects! Thank you for all of the time and expense that you and your team put into making these videos for us! As for the concrete...I don't understand the purpose of the wire mesh if you're not going to put it close to the center of the concrete. It serves no purpose resting on the bottom of the concrete. I know the concrete stays are tall, but maybe a few stones underneath the mesh would hold it up off the ground a little. You are the first person I have ever known that mentions spraying something on the forms to help with releasing it from the hardened concrete! I love that! THANKS!!!
Form release oil is typically used for when you would be taking off the forms before it fully hardens like when you would do stairs. usually it isnt necessary on this job unless you are planning on finishing the edges for a smooth looking finish. Sorry im a year late to this reply.
Can’t wait to see the rest of this shed build! Very exciting!
next week. Cheers!
I get the vapour barrier, but when the concrete has tension cracks it will collect water underneath the vapour barrier, the water will freeze at night, and create cracks from the bottom up. Would have much rather used Rebar instead of mesh and paid for Fibre to be mixed into the concrete. it has 8X better strength that way, given all the prep work under the concrete was done proper.Getting a higher MPA like 34. Also to prevent weeds and such from growing in the cracks, also use Filter Cloth under the concrete instead of vapour barrier, that way you can always wash out the tension cracks when they get full and allow water to pass throw rather then flood the concrete and risk problems. Also you can buy 4X8 foam panels which helps a lot with keeping the concrete dry and well insulated.
we built this on 12" of compacted GA so i am not worried about weeds or cracks forming. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY, Weeds will not form as long as the cracks are either filled or covered, in this case a shed/workshop you mentioned. As for cracks, they will form as the concrete expands and contracts over time. The purpose of all these added building techniques and technologies such as fibre and rebar are that the concrete is stronger, but also more flexible and resistant to cracking via movement.
Practical Engineering made a pretty informative video on the basics of concrete and why we do things a certain way. for example, the wiremesh you put down in this video will not serve as a great strengthener as it is sitting on the gravel, not inside the concrete where it will take up the tension of movement. All the things we do to make concrete work last for decades to come.
@@mattcraztex9940 TBH, had he received a Inspection Jeff would have failed the inspection. The strength of the concrete is eroded when the Mesh/Rebar is either at the bottom or the top of the concrete, it needs to be "roughly halfway". GA still freezes and it thaws even when compacted it does take longer....but it will happen. WE also have to admit that Jeff is "Flipping" this house. That Shed will last 20+ years Concrete wise, even with that one misstep with the Chicken wire (That is what I call it). I would have prefered 10mm rebar and a float. So in the Grand speaking about this Project. I would have used a 2X4 to level and then install the "J" Bolts and let it sit. Come back after a few coolies and get rid of the ridges and edge it with your Edging Trowel, after that wait another hour or so and finish the inside with a 12" Steel Trowel if you want it to look like your basement. Make sure your "Slump" is no more than a 4. Too much water added to the concrete is bad for any floor. A dehydrated floor will get stronger over time with the added water from the ground. Hence the wording Water will "Wick" into concrete. For a shed it isn't important, for a house? Maybe...but I doubt it. Unless you get a monsoon once a month.
@@Delekham Pretty much my point. I build houses so I know how WE do it to go above and beyond our competition. The value of the project comes out when it's for your self, But especially time to sell, Especially your are a reputable builder that dose not skip steps. I never use chicken wire, but I always use fibre, high MPA and have also invested in a concrete vibrator and a float. Tools that make a project last forever. I do understand that Jeff is a " Home Renovator DIY guy" Pretty obvious that he has not been around professional New Builds very often as he was thrilled with the difference in hand mixing vs Redi mix. Watering the concrete after it has time to dry is also fantastic since the concrete will have ample time to soak up moisture and cure to max hardness.
Rebar* not rebarb
Hi from Pennsylvania! I've been watching your videos for a while and you have helped me out a lot! Keep doing what you do, it's appreciated!
Thanks once again Jeff. You made my decision easy. I will be pouring my own slab. It is twice the size of what you just did and when you mentioned that a contractor would charge $3500!! for you and x2 for me... welp its a no brainer.
Would have been nice to see the prep work on how to prepare the pad prior to concrete(how deep to dig, how much gravel, gravel size, how to compact, etc.) Thanks.
same process as our patio video. Cheers!
That's cool that you're teaching her how to make do construction.
I subscribed because of the cost breakdown of the various options - of course I like doing it all myself, however I don't always have the time - so much appreciated!
Co I worked for in southwest texas used that form of cement trucks building gas compressors pads in the oil fields. Neat to watch.
A couple of 2x4s screwed together a little wider than the form makes it easy to get the concrete within the range of level. Some scrap plywood a 2x4 and some fasteners you can make a cheap bull float.
I drive a concrete truck and learned a lot about concrete. For example, after mixing at the plant, you have 3 hours to get it off the truck before it becomes unworkable, (the concrete rapidly begins to lose its strength and is unworkable) The same applies to short loads trucks but the 3 hours begin at mixing time. Also, Some companies place concrete without forms and rely on heavy equipment to set limits, finish all in one step. Most finishers use lightweight concrete drag and 2x4x14 or less aluminum skreet tools to obtain a near level finish followed by a finisher with a long finishing drag tool.
I'm thinking of making my side entrance driveway longer, thanks for the video. Shouldn't the metal wiring have been pulled up into the middle of the concrete?
I was wondering the same thing
Considering it's just a shed it really isn't thar big of a deal.
I think it should have been pulled up.
Yes. It's not doing anything sitting on the bottom
Middle would be better, but I bet this would be fine. The rebar is just there to help with tension pressures. The concrete can handle compressive force with ease, but when it is pulled apart it needs something to hold it together. The rebar at the bottom isn't optimal, but truthfully it's better than nothing and likely good enough. My patio was poured at least 30 years ago, and while it's looking a bit rough, it's fine without rebar.
The on site mixer is pretty sweet. Used that for a set of stairs and landscaping pads, one time.
Hi Jeff, I really enjoy your videos as I tend to be more of a DIY guy myself. I'm newly in Idaho from California. I appreciate your costs breakdowns too so I get an idea of what I'm in for budget wise. You've even inspired me to attack drywall fixes and not be terrified of them :)
After my wedding this year i need to build a base for my shed. This is perfect!!!
is that for a new mother-in-law shed? hahaha
Sometimes it feels like Jeff knows what projects I have coming up :)
I am watching. LOL
I found your channel a few weeks ago as I just started renovations. 1) Amazing channel and content 2) Even more amazing is you’re in Ottawa!
Welcome aboard!
Thanks Jeff I watch many of your videos and have received much help from them. I have built a deck, completely renovated my bathroom and am currently building a 12x16 shed. I am DIY'er without a lot of the fancy tools. I have found if you are creative and use what you have you will get a decent job in the end. I saved $10 000 doing my deck by myself and over $5 000 on the bathroom so thanks again.
Such a hard worker with a smile. Ty
This was so interesting to watch and you provided so much information as you went along. You are such a jolly person. I love your attitude.😊
Seriously. What a great quality video. One of the best on YT
Man I tell you what, you’re great at what you do and the way you explain everything always gets my undivided attention. Good on ya mate. 👍🏼
Awesome video! I'm planning to construct a storage shed this spring. I have been debating whether or not to mix the concrete myself. Now I know what I'm going to do.
Mesh IN your concrete is a must. Concrete will always crack, the mesh ensures the slab stays together and keeps it stable while frost pushes on it. Make sure you hook under it with a tooth of your rake as you put so the concrete flows under it and suspends the mesh in the concrete. If your going to lay it on the ground and pour over the top of it then save your money and skip the mesh as it's not really doing anything when installed improperly. I love your content and been watching for 8 months despite doing it all day long at work. That is the only complaint I have had to date. Keep the videos coming.
not too concerned with superficial cracks in my workshop but I get it. Cheers!
Excellent information on the cost tradeoffs! Also learned about mix on demand concrete trucks. Didn't know they existed.
Me neither until he showed up with it. great day all around!
I forgot to say, nice job . By the way About 8yrs ago I built a retaining wall with concrete block and filled them with concrete and rebar. 180 bags two guys by hand. I still can't look at cement bags.
I like those kinds of cement trucks. There’s no rush because of the concert is getting hard from pre-mixing before they get to the site. Also you don’t have leftovers or being short.
Awesome. Thank you for pricing. It so helps as a single mom who can’t do it herself.
Love ur show I EVEN share with my architect son...... LOL he like you Also keep up what u r doing .. n costing it is sooooo valuable in decision making....
Thank you so much 😀
Can’t wait to see the build of the workshop
Cheers Scott next saturday!
Cost breakdowns are always appreciated!
Glad you like them!
You are an absolute legend.. keep up the awesome work.. cheers all the way from the land down under.. Australia-Queensland-Brisbane...👍
Wow, thanks! Cheers to all our friends down under!
You needed to put a couple of steaks on the BBQ and invite some buddys over! A couple of beers would have sealed the deal...
this video was great. Im a new contractor, only been at it for about a year and 8 months. Videos like this help me understand what it might take on certain projects and now im not discouraged in taking on jobs like this and i have a general understanding what it will take to bring in a cement company. Thank-you for the content, i always appreciate it.
Happy to help you in the right direction.
Yeah i really liked the amount of detailed information you included in this video.
Glad you liked it!
Wow that truckkk😮 so convenient
So good! Going to do this soon myself, glad for a bigger workshop vid coming up.
next week. hope it helps!
Thanks for Lawn mower storage shed slap pointers Rumsey Construction.
Jeff, did you pull up on the wire mesh during install? It is supposed to be in middle of slab, for structural strength. Just curious, I didn’t see or hear it mentioned. Thanks, great channel
LOL, you know he didn't. And no screed board? Really? DIY doesn't need to be poor quality. I would far rather screed and float a slab than grind it! It's kinda like using a grinder on poor welds.
Most people can't afford the expense or want to pay for a truck to come and pour. I know you said you aren't a concrete guy, I would love to see you do a diy dry pour concrete slab project.
That's an awesome concrete service.
cheers to that!
That truck is amazing. I still remember horror stories of cement trucks getting stuck in traffic where the mix would cure in the barrel and need to be jackhammered out. Not only losing the money from that load, but also being labor intensive to get up and running again. I imagine this system would be waaay easier to clean afterwards, too. Plus you only pay for what you need.
Had a 20x20 ft garage build in Calgary, if I remember correctly from the invoice the concrete pad with retaining walls was around 3500ish, that was in mid 2021
You pile up the overflow concrete into a nice little pile. You don’t make multiple piles. It’s easier to dispose of when it hardens and it’s easy to pick off of when still wet if you need a little extra.
Not bad for someone who doesn't work with concrete very often. I love those mix trucks also. I worked for Rembco running a mix truck and grout plant through college in 02-06. Back then we had to bust the concrete bags on the side of the mix truck. Talk about getting in shape try busting 500 bags average daily. We had a guy that set our company record busting 880+ bags in one day on one job of those portland type two 94 lbs bags.
Very cool!
Can’t wait to see more videos . Leave them run long, don’t mind longer videos at all.
Love All Of Your Videos. Simple, direct and to the point. 👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾👊🏾
Hi Jeff. Great job guys. That concrete truck was awsome. Great idea. Can't wait to see the shed being built. Take care and stay say. All the best. 🇬🇧👍👌
video comes out later this morning. Cheers!
now we are talking! love the price breakdown ! especially for us Canadians
That cement truck / concrete truck 😲 ... I'm speechless 😎
SO GLAD I came across this video. Making plans for a 12x20’ shed build and seriously considering a slab foundation now. Live in Ottawa myself… just emailed Mirad for a quote!
Yes more cost breakdown! Thank you for doing that.
As somebody who did concrete pads for 2.5 years I would say mix on site is nice. We made the mistake ONCE of going to get lunch after pour bc it was way to wet to work. Come to find out only about 100 sqft of it was really wet and the rest was basically dry... Luckily we were able to soak it with water and bring it back to life. But we learned from our mistake and never did that again.
cheers. nice to have a great consistency.
That truck is amazing.
thank you, definitely appreciate all the pricing and data, thank you again.
Our pleasure!
Yes the cost breakdown is great to have. I saved some money by doing the work myself as well. Hoping you will be doing a video on the shed build too
next saturday
Right now concrete delivered is $125 a yard ($75 delivery fee if less than 7 yards) in Florida, finishing the concrete is going to run about $95 a yard.
As far as groundwork, compacting stone, and rebar, I haven’t priced that, but it doesn’t vary to much.
That was a real feel good show. You guys are the real deal, good people. Thank you, Max for sharing what you and your wife were able to do with your home. And thank you, Jeff for the channel and everything you share with the little guys, DIYers like me.
Our pleasure!
I have never seen a truck that mixes on the jobsite. Wondering if he uses chemicals to adjust the slump instead of water. Also, if he sets the psi strength as well. Very interesting. Your point of having help is very important even if it is someone who can hand you things. Great video.
The costing info is great. Excellent descriptive video for the DIY
Hope you lifted that weld wire remesh with a rake Jeff. You can show where and how to make control cuts for contraction with that trusty dewalt circular saw you love so much! Great how too videos. Can't wait to see you do the driveway next!
The truck is the plant……brilliant 👍
Fantastic video, Jeff! I guess I assume calling a contractor is automatically going to more expensive ... Super helpful 👍
You got that right!
That truck is damn impressive and I'm glad I watched this video. Changed my mind on renting a mixer for my next project. Premix is the way to go. Great info. 👍
Thank you Jeff, once again your video has come in a very timely manner as I’m going to put up a shed before the end of this summer here in Australia 🇦🇺 Thank you so very much for the very clear presentation. I look forward to seeing a notification from your channel.
make sure the bell for notifications is set to ring. Cheers!
Your video was and is very helpful thanks
Thanks for the video! Hopefully I find a concrete delivery guy like that in my area since I'm on my own and probably one more guy for a 26'x18'x6" pad....An LLC company gave me a 9K bid...
Well done. Very good information and instruction. Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved the last shed build really looking forward to this one.
Definitely keep the price comparison coming.. this slab looked a lot more fun than last one ha
That concrete truck is so cool!
right!!