Amazon PL-259 Clamp Connector | Super Easy Installation
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- Опубликовано: 27 авг 2024
- How To Install A PL-259 Clamp Screw On Connector To Coaxial Cable
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I bought some of these in 259 and N connectors and I just put on a 259 and sweet Jesus was that nice these are worth the money for sure THANKS for doing this video Cheers de W9US
Lol so glad to help. Glad they worked out for you. 73.
@@arconeagain why is that?
@@edcozart9916 if you read my comments, I explain. He puts one of the parts in the wrong place. He won't reply to me, but he's more than happy to reply to someone who has followed him. You have to be very cautious of RUclipsrs bluffing their way through. This guy has 5 minutes of experience with these plugs, when I have ten years.
@@edcozart9916 so let me guess, you installed them incorrectly. That has to be annoying. Now you'll have to take the antenna down (if there's one at that end) and replace the plugs for new one's, as the rubber glands are likely damaged.
Thanks for the link and the how-to. This is perfect for me. To say I'm not that good at soldering would be an insult to those who are not good at soldering.
No sweat. It just takes practice. I've been soldering since my early teens but didn't really get good at it until I became a ham in my late 30's. Just keep practicing.
Just a small correction, the braid should be sandwiched between the washer and the bushing
That's right. I have told him this several times and the only reply I have from him is a smart arse one. The guy is arrogant and ignorant.
Someone else pointed this out, but it appears their comments have been removed or blocked. Don't know why he would do that. I wouldn't call it a small correction either, it's simply wrong, null and void.
I think you are right, it doesn't make sense to butt the washer to the bushing. If that was the case, they would have just made the bushing thicker.
Your are little different then mine has the hole on top
I’m confused can someone elaborate? I’m ordered these and put alotta $ into my first base setup and don’t wanna mess this up.
I can't say enough how much I appreciate videos like this. For some reason, coax has been intimidating. But between this and the other video you did on BNC, I realize I shouldn't worry so much.
Don't sweat it. Get some connectors and just start practicing. I've screwed up plenty when I was learning. You have to develop a technique. Some connectors will be harmed in the honing of your skills. But the money you will save over time by making your own cables far exceeds the cost of a few connectors.
@@hamradiotube did it help with improving power loss? Is MRD-400 now on par with LMR-400?
I just put the same connector back on the coax that I cut off in the coax video.
@@hamradiotube but the previous one had crimped pin this one is soldered. I wonder how big is the difference?
@@2EOGIY It was actually crimped and soldered. I highly doubt it will make any difference though.
You did that with much precision and without a bottle of whiskey. Nice!!!
I always liked the idea of clamp connections. Way easier than soldering braid for PL259’s.
Thank you for this. I've been using the old style solder connectors (infrequently) since the '60s and was never confident of my work. These connectors are way better. The only problem I had was that the small insulator would not fit over the braided inner conductor of my RG-8/U. After trimming the inside of the conductor and a little reaming out of the center post the connector went on great. Thanks again! 73, N5CAD
Clamp connectors are the best. I've been using them for years.
what a professional job! very straightforward no waffling either! GREAT!
I found that a 17mm wrench worked a little better to secure the barrel of the connector. Glad you posted this Mike. I needed a refresher. Thanks.
Loved your video! Made the install easy to follow. I was installing the fittings on Tram-Browning LMR400 and couldn't force the ferrule into the end of the cable as the outer jacket was hard and not flexible - the solution was to use a heat gun to soften the outer jack and use a 7/16 nut driver to push it in. Worked like a charm. Again Thanks
I would have thought the second washer goes on before you fan the shield, then you insert the collet. The way you did it, the braid is reliant on the pressure applied by the leading surface of the rubber gland against the washer and collet... as opposed to the braid being squeezed between the washer and the collet, which are both conductive, metal surfaces on either side of the outer shield. Otherwise, what is the washer for? This is how I've been doing it for years with similar compression fittings, and after all, that washer is sized to fit over the braid.
I thought the same thing, and looked at a couple of other videos on this, and all show the braid being clamped between the smaller washer and the bushing. KJ7WT
Yes, that is how those should be installed. No surprise though, he makes great videos, but does not always fully research what he shows or talks about.
@@germanjohn5626 personally, if I made this video, I'd pull it and redo it. This is because so many may install their connector incorrectly, and let's face it, coaxial connectors are important. It can let your whole system down, I don't have enough fingers to count how many times I've seen an operator with a faulty connection. Delete the video, it's called being responsible.
Finally, Found a video, with the connectors I have. With the rings and rubber guts etc. Only my connectors have open points. But thats easy to fill with a bit of solder. Thanks for this video. I need to store this one.
I suspected an unkosherness in the truckstop carrying coax connectors, 2 kinds...all of the sudden.
So I bought a few of each. Now I see this and realize I have the kind that sucks, and crimpy ones that suck.
Nice demo!
Looks just like an M&P connector that seems to be on B/O a lot. Well done!
That’s the way does it, clear n lucid.
I only used uhf special Pl-259 connectors like these. I love them! Solid connector.
Neat design.. end result looks gorgeous and professional. Installation appears easy.. Center pin is easy but getting braid soldered properly to the connector has always been a challenge for me.
Wouldn't it be better to screw/turn the back part instead of the entire front end?
To keep things in place inside the house, and just having the back parts/guts be squeezed in there.
Yes, I was thinking the same thing.. When I do my M&P I put a dab of sealant on the bottom of the brass center pin so that when it's assembled, it won't let water pass along the outside of the center pin.
@@imken2392 don't use RTV inside a sealed connector...........as it cures it generates acidic acid which can't escape and eventually will cause an RF short inside the connector.............trust me...........did it once......2 meter repeater in the dead of winter....silicon dielectric grease would be better............DC-4........tube will last a lifetime.......73 Mik, K1FNX near Boston
You've got the Messi & Paoloni scissors, I would have gone with their connectors and coax too.
This really helped. Thanks!
Thanks so much for the informitive videos. I was into cb radio when I was a teen but I recently became interested in radio again and got my ham license so I'm learning all I can. I have a very bad tremor so I'm looking for ways to make my own cables that won't be too difficult with my hands shaking.
Never hesitate to reach out to fellow hams for a little help. There's usually someone relatively close or even a ham club that should be more than willing to help with a task such as this.
Quite delicious. Not enough basic videos on how to do simple things. I been messing up connectors left and right
Nice video. Just bought these XRDS-RF compression connectors from Amazon myself and found a couple of differences between this and the M&P. These are a tad shorter and lack the extra o-ring at the base of the nut down at the cable entry. Probably why they put heat shrink tubing in there to offer a measure or increased weather resistance for outdoor use. I'm happy with mine for indoor use and use the M&P outside. But time will tell if the M&P will really be weather resistant at the stem. Seal the screw collar with something like CoaxSeal, liquid electrical tape, or just something.
Thanks for a great tutorial about these connectors. Certainly putting this on my to-do list.
You can get these style connectors for 7/8” heliax. Good stuff
Great timing and a very useful video. I bought a mag Mount for mobile use but the fitting is so flimsy I can easily push it out of shape with my fingers. This looks just the job. 73. Pete
Nice video. I really like the clamp-style connectors. Just one thing, the video would be better without the distracting background music.
I LOVE those conenctors, have a bunch of the amphenol version here... they're used a lot with N connectors... but they're not cheap as a general rule. I beleive callum is a fan of those as well... and they're also pretty water resistant too
Nice, no need to crimp. I like that.
Wow. Great find and awesome video. M&P connectors are great. It will be interesting to see how these compare. Thank you!
Nice .... good budget alternative to the m+p the heat shrink I use dual walk with glue then it's ne er coming off ..and it's double sealed ..might have to get a few of those connectors and have look at them
Thanks for that 73
Good stuff! Looks like a few more steps than normal, but the end result is worth it.
Good find , Great video. Very M&P like. About the same price but probably easier to get locally.
I have been holding off on cutting some LMR400 because I didn't want to deal with soldering the new connector. I hate that job! This connector looks like the answer for me. Just ordered a couple and will try them out. I just wish someone would invent wireless feed line!
Looks like a "half breed" between an N connector. I would imagine it presents less of an "impedance bump" than a conventional PL-259-I just may have to "beta test" those in my ham installation. Great video!!
i assembled 3 cables this morning with these. Ill never buy another solder PL259 again. Thanks for the video VE3GUE
Nice vid very well filmed - thanx. I used the RG58 version of these connectors but found that the skirt on the knurled nut is too long by about half a mil and bottoms out on the socket before the inner is fully home allowing the plug to move about - not good for RF. Dremeled off the skirt below the knurl to sort it but it was a lot of work that I could have done without🤨
Thanks Brother, great demonstration. 73’s
These connectors look like the evo connectors that Messi and Paoloni sell on their coax. They look more better then a typical amphenol connector. Im gonna be switching all my connectors out to these. And these are available in bnc also.
Nice! Looks like a solid connector
What kind of wire strippers are those. I’ve never seen that style before and they look like a great design. I really like the scissor way you trim wire with them. Thanks for sharing this method installing these connectors.
They're Messi & Paoloni Caox scissors. You can get them at Gigaparts and save 5% with code k8mrd
WOW! Thank you! Thank you! Thank you!
Hey Mike, that’s a pretty cool video. I like how those connectors went together. I hope you have a wonderful Christmas and a fantastic new year. Enjoy your videos, so again, merry Christmas from the Texas hill country.
WD5ENH
Steve
NO SOLDERING!!!! (except for the center conductor) I don't know how many times I melted the dialectirc, or had bad solder connection to the brade. Throw away your old style UHF connectors that require an extremely hot soldering iron to install. These are GREAT!!!
I like to use a soldering gun instead of a pencil iron for these because the heat required to make a good connection plus the time it would take with a pencil has caused melted dielectric before.
It would be more better if one were to pool a bit of soldier in the tip before putting it on the center conductor.
Real helpful. Thanks!
That looks super clean.
Does anyone make something like that for RG58?
They 'ok'. If you look at the setback on the thread, its far back compared to something like an amphenol or m&p compression plugs. Also have noticed and it might have been my batch that the thread is not the 5/8 inch 24tpi UNEF standard. Just be aware i guess.
Yes quite delicious lol
Soldering will be a lot easier if you put a little bit of flux on that before you went and applied solder
Nice!! Thanks for this video.
I take it that would be soLder….lol…thanks for the video great job.
🤣
looking good
Hold the body while tightening the 5/8 nut or you will destroy the washer and all the previous hard work.
Looks like copy cats have been busy studying M&P connectors.
As is my luck, Amazon is no good for the connectors now. You have any issues with the copper-clad coax that you noted? Thanks for the videos!
May I ask ... what kind of cable did you just attach your PL259 connector to ???
I would scrape the enamel from the center conductor, and then expose it to some Solder flux !
Only because I believe the Solder would more easily flow thru that tiny hole !
But seeing these makes me wonder how the old fashioned PL 259 Connectors ever worked ?
Damn shame there isn't room for more parts !
👉😖-----
Would you say these are on par with crimp connectors ? I can’t decide if I should try my hand at soldering, the compression fittings or crimp on connectors.
I would say these are better than crimp connectors personally. I used to use those but now I use this type. Mostly for ease of installation. Plus you get a bit of insulation from the bottom due to the rubber gasket. You still need to solder the center pin with these but it's pretty easy.
I just received some of these today from Amazon. I got these to use with M&P Ultraflex 10 because the M&P connectors seem to be currently non existent. Although these look quite nice, they are not the same quality as the M&P, but are less expensive. One thing I did note is in the Amazon description, it states they are nickel plated brass. However, the knurled nut that connects to a SO-239 is magnetic indicating the presence of iron. The main body and all other parts are non magnetic. They claim these pass a 96 hour salt spray test. I wonder?
Make sure you don't install them like this, as it's wrong. Look at my initial comment for the correct method. This guy won't amend it, seems to want to mislead fellow operators.
This is actually an interesting comment. I've seen that many distributors which carry M&P coax do not sell their connectors, and I can't figure out why. I'm fortunate enough to be in Europe, so if I order stuff from their factory, it usually arrives by the morning on the next day..
Nice!! Gotta order some for the parts box!! Thanks. Jack K5FIT
Isn't this connecter like the Messi and Paoloni adapter?
Do they have any for RG-8x? I see another brand on the Amazon, but no reviews of said brand.
Can these connectors that you put in the links be used for RG8X?
Very cool
What kind of coax are u using in the video?
Very helpful. Thanks a gigzillon
Great video! What kind of scissors are those?
Messi & Paoloni. You can get them at Gigaparts.
Too bad you cannot get these for 8x LMR 240. Looks like I'm buying a crimp tool for connectors.
Hi Mike,
I like the new intro. Those connectors appear to be easier to install than the M&P. Happy Holidays and stay safe. 73 WJ3U
Hi can you provide that red cutter part number thanks
How are they holding up after a year?
Like a champ
What size is the co-ax Mike?
Nvmd I see it
Is that a POTA logo in the magnetic 🧲 dish?
Indeed it is.
Noice job!
Thanks so much.
They look a lot like the things that M&P sell. Gonna get a few of these, and see how they compare - nice find, thanks :)
73
de
G1LIW
Follow-up; comparing like for like, these Amazon connectors (branded "Rangeful", and made in Lithuania, as it happens), and the Messi & Pauloni RG-58/Hyperflex 5 compatible 259-esque connectors, they appear VERY similar; however, the Rangeful ones are VERY much easier to assemble - you don't have to strain your fingers to get the end nut into the body, whereas the amount of effort for the M&P ones is quite a lot higher; the downside of the Rangeful connectors is the solder hole at the end ofg the signal pin; the M&P one is bigger, meaning it's easier to solder. The Rangeful one is smaller, though a little bit of judicious filing with a small needle file should solve that issue. Also, the Rangeful signal pin and spacer (one part) comes out of the end of the body; the one on the M&P unit does not.
The price point seems similar, by the way.
I've not tried either for fitting onto coax yet - that's going to be in about a month, and I'll add to this minithread at that time.
Cheers for putting me onto this brand - thus far, looks like a winner :)
73
de
G1LIW
How do these compare to the M&P connectors?
I really wouldn't have a way to tell. I don't have any test equipment and they don't publish the specs. I would guess not as good. You pay for what you get, but they seem to be pretty darn good.
Thanks! I’ve used a myriad of clamp connectors for N and BNC through the years. Super easy once you get the hang of it. And easy to fix if you forget parts.
@@n2yqt This guy's an idiot, don't go by this video, the installation is incorrect as he put a part in the wrong place!
Incorrect! The braid must be squeezed between the washer and the anchor. This is the way how the connector sticks to the cable.
thanks for video and introducing this connector, this is exactly the connector I will buy next time, I often melt coax when I solder outer shield with conventional connector. AG6JU
I think George Jetson would yell JANE at the top of his voice putting this thing on.
However, I think Willie E Coyote could do this without yelling. Then again, they speak with signs....
Knockoff of the m&p Evolution UHF connectors
would you trust this connection at full legal limit ? 1,500 watts ? On 11 meters no way ! a mid size station is a 48 pill box, 13,200 watts. Run LMR-400 SOLDERED
High voltage test for connector internal arcing for high SWR under QRO.
Neat job Mike. Thanks for sharing.
Kiran VU2XE
Perfect !!! de vu3knb