Looks great! I'm doing this very same thing for our Airstream windows (I used the boat windshield video as my guide). Thank you for the thorough instructions on all your videos--they've taught me how to do things I didn't think I could do!
Great idea. Only concern, if looking for reducing heat penetration, is the metal trim. In direct sunlight I get temps on the inside metal frame upwards of 180 degrees (Texas 100°+) Might want to install to sidewall to include coverage of both window and frame. Using Suntex 95, we get about 90-95% less heat radiation on the windows and frames. Couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you
Mounting external shields the windows (and frames, if you include them) from heating up in the first place. If you want to mount inside, go with ceramic film. Or both. Film inside to reduce glare and some heat, screens on exterior in extreme heat to drastically reduce radiation heat.
I don't like cutting Textilene or Phifertex vinyl mesh fabric with a hot knife because it has a tendency to burn the edges too much. Instead I often cut the vinyl mesh fabric with scissors and then run a hot knife along the cut edge to seal the Polyester core fibers. In doing this it helps to reduce the burnt look, especially with light colored vinyl mesh, like white. An edge that is going to be covered in binding never needs to be heated with a hot knife.
Hi welcome I see many video RUclips sailtrite sew machine I am deaf 🧏♀️ sign language I in England 🏴 I hope you enjoyed vedio watching thank you 🙌👍 Hannah Dolphin 🐬😊
I am using this video to guide me in making replacement sunshades for five large fixed windows on my boat. Things went exactly according to plan until the binding part. I bought a 3/4 inch binder on lieu of the one inch binder that came with my LSZ 1 machine and 7/8 inch binding. The problem is that the video shows adjusting the medial-lateral position of the binder to obtain the appropriate position of the stitch line. My experience was that because of the “ski tip” extension of the binder which stopped the movement of the binder closer to the presser foot than the medial aspect of the foot/feed dog I could not achieve a stitch line that did not, at times, result in a stitch line that did not include the binding. I could not adjust the binder in a way time get a consistently satisfactory stitch line that did not consistently miss the edge of the binding. Once I switched to the one inch binder and binding, there was no problem. Maybe I am missing I may be missing something, but the 3/4 inch binder doesn’t work for me as shown, although the one inch does. What am I missing? -John Cope wilaby@bellsouth.net
Hi John, Because the 3/4" binder must be moved closer to the presser feet of the sewing machine and the "ski tip" gets in the way, I remove the "ski tip" with a Dremel tool cutting wheel. It is not required for sewing and it lets you position the binder closer to the presser foot to move the stitch inside the binding edge. I hope this helps!
Looks great! I'm doing this very same thing for our Airstream windows (I used the boat windshield video as my guide). Thank you for the thorough instructions on all your videos--they've taught me how to do things I didn't think I could do!
You are welcome!
You guys at Sailrite are always so very helpful.
Many thanks
Your welcome!!!
Such good instructions and illustration.
thank you, I really appreciate the effort you put into these videos
Thanks!!!
Awesome! Thank you!
Great idea. Only concern, if looking for reducing heat penetration, is the metal trim. In direct sunlight I get temps on the inside metal frame upwards of 180 degrees (Texas 100°+) Might want to install to sidewall to include coverage of both window and frame.
Using Suntex 95, we get about 90-95% less heat radiation on the windows and frames. Couldn't have done it without this video. Thank you
Thank You for the very informative video
You are welcome.
Fantastic!
Question: What was the decision factor(s) for the flexible SNAD vs the hard domed SNAD?
Both would work well.
Gosh... I'd have thought they would have worked better mounted on the inside instead of the outside. Why'd you chose external mounting?
Was going to say the same
That could be done if you wanted.
@@JD2jr. Yes, that can be done if you want.
Mounting external shields the windows (and frames, if you include them) from heating up in the first place. If you want to mount inside, go with ceramic film. Or both. Film inside to reduce glare and some heat, screens on exterior in extreme heat to drastically reduce radiation heat.
Would you use this textilene fabric as a dodger cover/shade on isinglass? Thanks
Are the SNAD Adhesive-Backed Base Studs fine to adhere to acrylic RV windows?
Yes, use 3M Primer 94 to prep for Snads.
Love your videos! We have an LSZ-1. Can or should that fabric be cut with a hot knife?
I don't like cutting Textilene or Phifertex vinyl mesh fabric with a hot knife because it has a tendency to burn the edges too much. Instead I often cut the vinyl mesh fabric with scissors and then run a hot knife along the cut edge to seal the Polyester core fibers. In doing this it helps to reduce the burnt look, especially with light colored vinyl mesh, like white. An edge that is going to be covered in binding never needs to be heated with a hot knife.
Hi welcome I see many video RUclips sailtrite sew machine I am deaf 🧏♀️ sign language I in England 🏴 I hope you enjoyed vedio watching thank you 🙌👍 Hannah Dolphin 🐬😊
I am using this video to guide me in making replacement sunshades for five large fixed windows on my boat. Things went exactly according to plan until the binding part. I bought a 3/4 inch binder on lieu of the one inch binder that came with my LSZ 1 machine and 7/8 inch binding.
The problem is that the video shows adjusting the medial-lateral position of the binder to obtain the appropriate position of the stitch line.
My experience was that because of the “ski tip” extension of the binder which stopped the movement of the binder closer to the presser foot than the medial aspect of the foot/feed dog I could not achieve a stitch line that did not, at times, result in a stitch line that did not include the binding. I could not adjust the binder in a way time get a consistently satisfactory stitch line that did not consistently miss the edge of the binding.
Once I switched to the one inch binder and binding, there was no problem. Maybe I am missing
I may be missing something, but the 3/4 inch binder doesn’t work for me as shown, although the one inch does.
What am I missing?
-John Cope
wilaby@bellsouth.net
Hi John, Because the 3/4" binder must be moved closer to the presser feet of the sewing machine and the "ski tip" gets in the way, I remove the "ski tip" with a Dremel tool cutting wheel. It is not required for sewing and it lets you position the binder closer to the presser foot to move the stitch inside the binding edge. I hope this helps!
@@SailriteDIY problem solved. I noticed in the video that the piece on the binder was much smaller, but I figured it was an earlier model.