Excellent info as always! Too many people expect Subject and Eye AF to be a miracle system that should always work, and are disappointed when it "fails" yet it's doing exactly what the AF is designed to do. Realistic expectations combined with full understanding of the cameras AF capabilities is definitely a major key to success. This video defines those keys to success VERY well! I feel I "work" my mirrorless AF system harder than I ever did on a DSLR by frequently "pumping" back and forth between subject/eye detection and single point AF when difficult situations arise. Dual Back Button focus makes this very fast and easy vs actually turning off Subject/Eye AF on my Canon bodies. Keep the great info coming!
Yeah, it always mystifies me when people think mirrorless makes it effortless to get the shot. I think it takes at least the same amount of finesse to get the most out of it. However, once it's on, I think it's easier. Just different workflows.
Absolutely spot-on. I feel that the people gaining the most from these new technologies are those who have been around long enough to have had to use far less sophisticated equipment. I see an awful lot of people new to photography who believe all the marketing hype and think that all they need to do is pick up a camera and point it in the general direction of the subject and get brilliant results all the time! The best thing about those people is the fact that they will rapidly realise that that doesn't happen and will be packing in to find the next 'in thing' to try. This will mean lots of expensive kit available cheaply second hand.
Great tips, Steve. OM1 user here. Also, former and current Nikon, excluding the pricey Z9. The detection and tracking on this camera is phenomenal with more than 1,000 AF points on a M43 sensor half the size of Full frame. I started using it with various area modes and using the joystick to refine composition; but quickly came to realize the camera just doesn’t need the help. Switched to full area mode and haven’t looked back, except in circumstances where the subject is partly obscured or contrast is compromised - ie. heavy fog. I barely ever use the joystick any more for birds and wildlife. As an aside, even with the Z9 and all it’s updates, Nikon needs to up its game. Less than 500 AF points on the Z9 sensor - and less than 300 on the first and second gen Zs - is not enough for subject detection and tracking to be fully consistent. That’s why I switched to Oly for my birds and wildlife - OM1 + 150-400 4.5 TC pro lens - while keeping my Nikons for slow and stationary stuff - and my terrific 20-200 range of Z mount lenses. Steve, I know you’re being brand agnostic these days but I think tips on M43 would be great. Obviously, there are some compromises to work around for M43 physics but the sheer weight saving, versatility and computational features make it a great system in its own right. Cheers and happy new year.
We actually rented an OM-1 and 150-400 (what a lens!!) for a couple of weeks. Just sent it back yesterday in fact. My wife is very interested in it since she hates the size and weight of my Nikon and Sony systems (and I think she doesn't really like sharing with me LOL). While she played with it more than I did, we were both impressed with the glass - although found subject detection in on OM-1 not as great with mammals as the a1 or the Z9 (it was great with birds). Has that been your experience as well? Overall though, this one is up to her - I have my hands full with Nikon and Sony! I gotta say though - the fact that you can take a complete OM system to Africa in a relatively small bag is SO tempting!
@@backcountrygallery I haven’t tried it but your wife might want to try out both the 300 f/4 and the 40-150 2.8 pro lenses. Both are much more lightweight than the 150-400 and the images I see from many 300 users look tack sharp. I can’t compare my OM1 animal detect to Nikon or Sony - I have a Z6ii and it’s subject detection is subpar as we both know. I took the camera to the Tetons for a 65th B’day present/ workshop with Steve Mattheis - thanks to my wonderful wife - and was really happy with the performance for elk, bison and pronghorn; also here in Alberta shooting bighorns.
@@brianlemke6017 Good to know. If we do it, we might go for the 300 simply because the zoom is so tough to find. The weight of the zoom doesn't bother her too much - she's used to 600 F/4s, so the zoom is a featherweight by comparison!
Wise words. I photograph diving Kingfishers a lot, the shapes they make on the dive and especially when they emerge from the water prove really difficult for my R5 to track using subject detection so I go for an AF area.
I have just got a camera with subject detect and was getting problems with it not working the way I expected it to - your demonstrations and advice have covered everything that was going wrong and will help me to get it right in future! Great video, thank you. And I loved seeing your domestic cats, they look gorgeous. The big wild cats/cubs images are stunning too.
Excellent video Steve. When I first got the Z9, I was disappointed in the animal eye AF system and was reverting back to the same settings I have on my D850 / D500 asking myself why did I buy this camera? As I learned the limitations of the technology and got better at using it, I started to appreciate it more. The best tip you have in your video is to go to single point focus when AF is not giving consistent results. The AF system has gotten better with new firmware releases, but I wish Nikon would publish more about the limitations of the technology. It's comforting to know the Sony A1 and Z9 have similar AF eye tracking limitations, i.e., it's the technology, not necessarily the brand.
Thanks for the walk through! I appreciate your style of presenting what is needed in a understandable manner. Plus your example shots aren't too shabby either ;)
Great video , I get fed up with folks complaining about eye detection not working they forget that you still have to use your skill as a photographer to nail the shot
It’s wonderful from time time to just have this sort of content be reiterated. It’s so easy to get disillusioned when you see pro shots and wonder what you’re doing wrong. I have the canon r6 and rf 100-500 and often eye tracking won’t work. These tips are just what I needed to be reminded of. Thank you Steve!
Excellent as always. As someone who is new to mirrorless and subject detect I have been trying out different scenarios and this video reinforces some of my feelings on using the system. Its great to know that I seem to be heading in the right direction. Thank you for your excellent advice.
Your the best in detailing how to use z9 camera focusing with those afraid of transitioning from DSLRs. I'm totally dependent on a reliable camera shooting like sports (mostly indoors). Wildlife is a challenge also like moving birds. This is the closest match to what I photograph. Thanks. These tips are great!
Thank you for another helpful video. I use both Nikon Z9 and Sony A1 so your approach was great for me. I do like how my Sony can set up the AF-ON and ^ buttons for two modes of back button focus where on is set up for Subject detection and the other for precision spot. A little more difficult on the Nikon but working on it. You might want to share with users how to set up multiple modes to be able to use quickly with different modes assigned to buttons.
Steve if I may add one more tip, if the contrast between the subject and the background is not high the Z9 seems to struggle, for example if the subject is the same color as the background.
Question, when using the large af box, and animal detect locks on outside of the box, will the focus point remain the box, or the animal detect box that is now outside of the box?
Great tips as usual. I use AF-on button for 3d and subject detection. FN1 for single point and lastly the manual focus ring. The latter is often used before either of those buttons. Sometimes when the subject is deep inside a bush or tree, for example, Australian Reed Warblers are almost always deep in thick reeds, then manual is the only way. Having focus highlighting is golden for that method. I never thought of DX area to improve the performance of subject detection. FN2 will get that role :)
I do apply this tips since Z6I (2019) for dark enviroments, dance floor, street parades obtaining almost perfect shooting. Today I´m with Z6II and Z9 and all Z glass and detail from this combos are astonoshing! Found out the issue on DX mode with Z9, the rest is all beautiful aruond here :) Cheers from South America Steve!!
Literally just back from Kruger and indeed, the Z9 has issues with elephants and got the same experience that it focuses on the trunk. it also has trouble with a wildebeest/gnoe as it has these patches under the eye and confuses the subject/eye detection.
It's not just the Z9 - the a1 and any of the Canons I've sued struggle as well. My advice it to use the heck out of subject detection when it works, turn it off instantly when it doesn't!
Scott, as usual a great video. I use an R5 and am your comments all apply to Canon’s eye detect from my experience. I find using Dual Back-button focus is the way to go as I can flip between eye deck and traditional with just a slight movement of my thumb. I was surprised you didn’t mention that so I wanted to mention it here for the community.
Steve, I confirm you that the same is true for the new Fujifilm cameras (X-H2s, X-H2 and X-T5). I have tested it with each of them. This wasn't the case with older models.
Good info Steve. ** Primate eye detection** - as apes etc are primates, like we humans, I set my camera to Human eye detect when photographing them. This is due to the fact that their eyes are so similar to ours. Works well at the zoo! Shutting off subject detection at times sounds good. Cheers.
I've tried that a few times with varying success. I've put the Z9 in Auto mode and sometimes it works a little better - it depends on the primate. :) Most of the time I end up just managing AF myself though.
Wow! Applying these tips and knowledge will cut out a lot of "Why is this not working" wasted time on a shoot. It certainly applies to video shoots too. Thank you, Steve! ⭐x5
great tips, thank you Steve, i often have troubles in wildlife photography with moving animals that my camera rather likes to focus on branches than on my subject, and usually they are already gone once i´m in the focus range with manual focus 😢
If you're talking about it grabbing foreground obstacles, you can often help that with the subject tracking delay setting (the name varies by manufacturer). Basically, it allows you to tell the camera to grab on immediately or hesitate for a moment. Not sure what camera you have, so I can't tell you what it's called for your brand.
@@ChrrZ OK, I'm not sure if the A7III has the option (I never owned one), but Sony calls the setting AF Tracking Sensitive and it's under the AF menu. Lower numbers will hold onto the subject a little longer before jumping to the foreground - but note this is ONLY if the camera is actually locked on to the target first. Might be worth playing with.
I adjust my Nikon's "a3 focus tracking with lock-on" to four or five. After I lock on, this keeps the camera tracking subject longer even if a distraction passes through the frame.
Yup, it can help with Nikon. However, I don't think every camera has a similar option and some don't work well with SD (Heck, Nikon's didn't work well with SD until the recent updates).
I have a Tamron 150-600 Gen 1, and use it with my Canon R5. I tried taking pics last winter of a red cardinal on a perch with nothing behind it, except snow, it was sunny and the contast between bird and ground was unmistakable, still, the camera would not stick to the bird. I can't fathom what's going on, but I'm very disappointed in the camera & lens. Brought the combo into a camera store; they couldn't figure out what's wrong. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance
Thanks! Mostly it's keeping the AF distance at about the same range as the subject. I often manually adjust on the fly, so to speak :) The other trick is using AF areas that aren't too much larger than your subject in the frame. Larger AF areas often look for easier targets than flapping birds, etc. :)
He was after nesting material. He'd swoop in, grab some vegetative debris from the beach and take it back to his nest. He never landed, just grabbed it like a fish!
Glad to see someone finally using Vero 💪but boycott the ig 😉 Might the elephant eye be because of the dark eyes? My om-1 have pet and bird with eye detection. Never tried it on primates though, but I will keep it in mind next time I'm going to the zoo.! 😊 The detection sensitivity is good to know also, especially when wings or grass gets in the way for a second.
Eyes on an elephant just aren't overly distinct. I also think the system looks not just for eyes, but for eyes with faces, so that might throw it off too.
Steve your photos are some of the best in the world and I often pause the video to stare at them. Might I suggest holding them in broll longer? It's not that I don't appreciate seeing you but your photos are just incredible :) peace my friend
Thanks Steve for another interesting and informative video. On Sony cameras, do you ever use the Direct Manual Focus (DMF) as an alternative to eye focus. I have found this feature gives me the best of both auto and manual focus.
It's on my joystick press :) However, if subject detection isn't working, I'm more likely to turn it off (I have the button for it on the center control wheel) and just us AF normally.
nice tuto. do you have courses and tutos on sony A7IV ? i am struggling with eye detection. very often, wide (or wide tracking), zone (or zone tracking) don't recognize face of people coming to me (runner, jogger,...) and i need to switch to extended spot tracking which is amazing but i noticed that, even if face is prioritized, the extended spot must overlap the face frame otherwise focus is done on spot instead on eye
Another good one, the best part of subject detection is the freedom to compose how I want, and many different ways. It amazes me that people have this technology but still they only manage to centre or shoot for Instagram. What a waste of incredible ability in the gear.
Hi Steve, how do you quickly switch between having subject detection af on and off in the moment? I have it set to my back button af, so that is my main way of focusing right now unless I manually focus.
I have recall shooting functions (hold) set to turn it off when I press in the joystick. Nikon doesn't provide a dedicated way to shut it off at the moment (and I've asked them two numerous times).
Great content!! I have a question why do pros mostly advise against using the 1/2 press for any focus method? I have my R5 and R6 ii both set up as follows: The 1/2 press is set to the smallest single point with 2 back buttons set to subject detection one with all the focus points (whole screen) and one restricted to a smaller zone (which can be custom defined on the R6). I shoot wildlife. With this set up and the the 1/2 press on and by testing the back buttons can determine VERY quickly which method will be my best choice without ever taking my eye off the subject in the VF. I've been using this for a long time and for it works great but whenever I mention most say its not a good set up? I tried without and felt I was missing a lot of shots. Maybe just an old habit and what I am accustomed to ??
It's just a workflow difference. I know pros who use 1/2 press for focus and think I'm crazy for sticking to BBAF. As long as your method is fast and putting keepers on the cards, I say stick with it. The only reason I'd switch is if I thought using another method would prove faster or more intuitive to use for the way I'm wired. And that's my advice to everyone - do what works well for you - that's why we have options :)
DX crop mode is not different then simply zooming in (increasing magnification). A subject make lock eye detect at a 400mm zoom and fail at 300mm with the same subject and the same camera to subject distance.
Steve, great tips. But as a hobbyist photographer (Nikon Z50 owner) and can't justify the price on Nikon, Canon and Sony flagship camera. I realize Nikon cameras (not the Z9) have subpar (awful) AF for wildlife photography. Which Canon or Sony camera do you recommend for us hobbyist photographer?
Thanks! We had an R5 for awhile and it was really good. I haven't used the Sony A75, but I hear it's good as well. Also, FWIW, the Z6/7ii aren't great, but they are useable and I have captured quite a bit of action with them.
Hey Steve ! I got a Z7(i) and I recently received the 800 6.3 ; so far subject or eye detection have never worked on a bird (even tho it works on human faces). Is it normal because of the use of a Z7(i) ? I guess a Z7(ii) would make it way better ? I do not leave a lot of comments so btw, thank you very much for you work, it helps me so much ! Regards from France !
My most difficult subject is sandhill cranes. The eye is small and too far from the body. If I use spot focus the camera still constantly hunts (micro-focuses) in continuous focus. I just can't seem to ever be close enough to a crane.
If they are that far away, I wonder if you could focus on the body and still have the eye in good focus. (I'd have to see the scenario to really say one way or another - I don't like guessing :) ) FWIW, I have the opposite problem with them - most of the time I'm doing headshots. (Kensington Metropark in MI)
Does the A1 show the eye tracking box in video? I haven't been able to get it to turn on even when I'm super close to birds, am I doing something wrong?
I don't do much video, but form what I understand or have read, it doesn't work in video. However, I know next to nothing about video in the a1 - you might want to ask at the BCG Forums. Someone there will know.
Sony says of the A1 that its bird recognition was based on small birds and eagles/hawks. So users can expect to see failures with eg. long-necked birds.
I have a button assigned for it. On the Sony, you can assign a specific button to turning it on and off. For the Nikon, you have to use Recall Shooting Functions to do it.
Hi Brian! Thanks for the heads-up with that guy - he was so cool! Honesty though, I didn't get anything I really liked. Back on the computer, I just wasn't digging the white sky background. Later he moved into the trees, but then the background was too busy LOL!! Can't win sometimes! I guess I'll have to head back and try again :)
Great Video Steve! I think it's a shame that the Nikon Z6ii and Z7ii don't have bird detection, especially given the fact that they have people and pet eye detection.
Right???? When I first started using subject detection, I thought for sure primates would be the easiest targets. Sometimes it actually does work well, but mostly it's too hit-or-miss for me.
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
Great content as usual Steve. To a new wildlife photography RUclipsr, you’ve set a high bar for me to aspire to. Great job.
Thanks Simon, that's very kind. BTW - I've seen some of your videos as well - outstanding work, both in content and image quality.
Steve & Simon: My two favourite photo channels.
The start of a beautiful bromance
The both of you are blessing to the rest of us.
this is by far the best photography channel in youtube. I have all your books and still watch all your videos.
Thanks so much!
Excellent info as always! Too many people expect Subject and Eye AF to be a miracle system that should always work, and are disappointed when it "fails" yet it's doing exactly what the AF is designed to do. Realistic expectations combined with full understanding of the cameras AF capabilities is definitely a major key to success. This video defines those keys to success VERY well! I feel I "work" my mirrorless AF system harder than I ever did on a DSLR by frequently "pumping" back and forth between subject/eye detection and single point AF when difficult situations arise. Dual Back Button focus makes this very fast and easy vs actually turning off Subject/Eye AF on my Canon bodies. Keep the great info coming!
Yeah, it always mystifies me when people think mirrorless makes it effortless to get the shot. I think it takes at least the same amount of finesse to get the most out of it. However, once it's on, I think it's easier. Just different workflows.
Absolutely spot-on. I feel that the people gaining the most from these new technologies are those who have been around long enough to have had to use far less sophisticated equipment. I see an awful lot of people new to photography who believe all the marketing hype and think that all they need to do is pick up a camera and point it in the general direction of the subject and get brilliant results all the time!
The best thing about those people is the fact that they will rapidly realise that that doesn't happen and will be packing in to find the next 'in thing' to try. This will mean lots of expensive kit available cheaply second hand.
Great tips, Steve.
OM1 user here. Also, former and current Nikon, excluding the pricey Z9. The detection and tracking on this camera is phenomenal with more than 1,000 AF points on a M43 sensor half the size of Full frame. I started using it with various area modes and using the joystick to refine composition; but quickly came to realize the camera just doesn’t need the help. Switched to full area mode and haven’t looked back, except in circumstances where the subject is partly obscured or contrast is compromised - ie. heavy fog. I barely ever use the joystick any more for birds and wildlife.
As an aside, even with the Z9 and all it’s updates, Nikon needs to up its game. Less than 500 AF points on the Z9 sensor - and less than 300 on the first and second gen Zs - is not enough for subject detection and tracking to be fully consistent. That’s why I switched to Oly for my birds and wildlife - OM1 + 150-400 4.5 TC pro lens - while keeping my Nikons for slow and stationary stuff - and my terrific 20-200 range of Z mount lenses.
Steve, I know you’re being brand agnostic these days but I think tips on M43 would be great. Obviously, there are some compromises to work around for M43 physics but the sheer weight saving, versatility and computational features make it a great system in its own right.
Cheers and happy new year.
We actually rented an OM-1 and 150-400 (what a lens!!) for a couple of weeks. Just sent it back yesterday in fact. My wife is very interested in it since she hates the size and weight of my Nikon and Sony systems (and I think she doesn't really like sharing with me LOL).
While she played with it more than I did, we were both impressed with the glass - although found subject detection in on OM-1 not as great with mammals as the a1 or the Z9 (it was great with birds). Has that been your experience as well?
Overall though, this one is up to her - I have my hands full with Nikon and Sony! I gotta say though - the fact that you can take a complete OM system to Africa in a relatively small bag is SO tempting!
@@backcountrygallery I haven’t tried it but your wife might want to try out both the 300 f/4 and the 40-150 2.8 pro lenses. Both are much more lightweight than the 150-400 and the images I see from many 300 users look tack sharp.
I can’t compare my OM1 animal detect to Nikon or Sony - I have a Z6ii and it’s subject detection is subpar as we both know. I took the camera to the Tetons for a 65th B’day present/ workshop with Steve Mattheis - thanks to my wonderful wife - and was really happy with the performance for elk, bison and pronghorn; also here in Alberta shooting bighorns.
@@brianlemke6017 Good to know. If we do it, we might go for the 300 simply because the zoom is so tough to find. The weight of the zoom doesn't bother her too much - she's used to 600 F/4s, so the zoom is a featherweight by comparison!
Wise words. I photograph diving Kingfishers a lot, the shapes they make on the dive and especially when they emerge from the water prove really difficult for my R5 to track using subject detection so I go for an AF area.
For this very reason I assigned different af modes to different buttons ,and do apply as the situation demands.
Great video Steve.
I have just got a camera with subject detect and was getting problems with it not working the way I expected it to - your demonstrations and advice have covered everything that was going wrong and will help me to get it right in future! Great video, thank you. And I loved seeing your domestic cats, they look gorgeous. The big wild cats/cubs images are stunning too.
Excellent video Steve. When I first got the Z9, I was disappointed in the animal eye AF system and was reverting back to the same settings I have on my D850 / D500 asking myself why did I buy this camera? As I learned the limitations of the technology and got better at using it, I started to appreciate it more. The best tip you have in your video is to go to single point focus when AF is not giving consistent results. The AF system has gotten better with new firmware releases, but I wish Nikon would publish more about the limitations of the technology. It's comforting to know the Sony A1 and Z9 have similar AF eye tracking limitations, i.e., it's the technology, not necessarily the brand.
Another great video Steve, i love that you are pushing out a lot of video’s lately, keep it up!
Thanks for the walk through! I appreciate your style of presenting what is needed in a understandable manner. Plus your example shots aren't too shabby either ;)
Thanks! :)
Great video , I get fed up with folks complaining about eye detection not working they forget that you still have to use your skill as a photographer to nail the shot
It’s wonderful from time time to just have this sort of content be reiterated. It’s so easy to get disillusioned when you see pro shots and wonder what you’re doing wrong. I have the canon r6 and rf 100-500 and often eye tracking won’t work. These tips are just what I needed to be reminded of. Thank you Steve!
That was one of the best videos on this subject I’ve ever seen 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks for all hard work, Steve!
Thanks so much!
Thanks again for all your help. Great show as usual!
Excellent as always. As someone who is new to mirrorless and subject detect I have been trying out different scenarios and this video reinforces some of my feelings on using the system. Its great to know that I seem to be heading in the right direction. Thank you for your excellent advice.
Love the African Bee Eater, was fortunate enough to shoot one this past year, sadly I didn’t have a long enough lenses. 1:13
Short, to the point and just amazing TIPS... Your advice always helps in improving something related to my photographic technique...
Happy New Year Steve,keep ‘em coming
Your the best in detailing how to use z9 camera focusing with those afraid of transitioning from DSLRs. I'm totally dependent on a reliable camera shooting like sports (mostly indoors). Wildlife is a challenge also like moving birds. This is the closest match to what I photograph. Thanks. These tips are great!
Hey Steve, love it. The practical and detailed explanations you use here and always are so so easy to understand and follow, great share pal.👍
Thanks David :)
Thank you for another helpful video. I use both Nikon Z9 and Sony A1 so your approach was great for me. I do like how my Sony can set up the AF-ON and ^ buttons for two modes of back button focus where on is set up for Subject detection and the other for precision spot. A little more difficult on the Nikon but working on it. You might want to share with users how to set up multiple modes to be able to use quickly with different modes assigned to buttons.
You have created another highly informative video with no extraneous information. Thanks, Steve.
Thanks for this video. It summarises a couple of my own investigations. AF is struggling in the dawn and works better with faster lenses
Super duper helpful video! It’s always a good day when you release new content 🤗 Thank you sir!
Steve if I may add one more tip, if the contrast between the subject and the background is not high the Z9 seems to struggle, for example if the subject is the same color as the background.
Great video and content Steve. Thanks for always sharing your knowledge to all of us camera buffs.
Great tips Steve. Provided new insights I hadn’t thought of.
Thank you for the review of these settings. It means a lot when coming from you, as a pro, and you use these setting the most!!!
Question, when using the large af box, and animal detect locks on outside of the box, will the focus point remain the box, or the animal detect box that is now outside of the box?
Great tips as usual. I use AF-on button for 3d and subject detection. FN1 for single point and lastly the manual focus ring. The latter is often used before either of those buttons. Sometimes when the subject is deep inside a bush or tree, for example, Australian Reed Warblers are almost always deep in thick reeds, then manual is the only way. Having focus highlighting is golden for that method. I never thought of DX area to improve the performance of subject detection. FN2 will get that role :)
Thanks Steve .You are good teacher
Awesome. Look forward to your tips on Video shooting sometime in the future..😊
Nobody makes better videos! Close, but no better!
Thanks Steve. That was the clearest explanation for the use (or not) of subject detection I have seen. Much appreciated. Happy New Year!
Excellent as always. Great tips for a terrific but imperfect tool.
Excellent video - thank you. As ever, the explanations are extremely clear. I will definitely use these tips.
I do apply this tips since Z6I (2019) for dark enviroments, dance floor, street parades obtaining almost perfect shooting. Today I´m with Z6II and Z9 and all Z glass and detail from this combos are astonoshing! Found out the issue on DX mode with Z9, the rest is all beautiful aruond here :)
Cheers from South America Steve!!
Very helpful! Thanks for the clear explanations Steve.
Literally just back from Kruger and indeed, the Z9 has issues with elephants and got the same experience that it focuses on the trunk. it also has trouble with a wildebeest/gnoe as it has these patches under the eye and confuses the subject/eye detection.
It's not just the Z9 - the a1 and any of the Canons I've sued struggle as well. My advice it to use the heck out of subject detection when it works, turn it off instantly when it doesn't!
Scott, as usual a great video. I use an R5 and am your comments all apply to Canon’s eye detect from my experience. I find using Dual Back-button focus is the way to go as I can flip between eye deck and traditional with just a slight movement of my thumb. I was surprised you didn’t mention that so I wanted to mention it here for the community.
Not all cameras do that and this video was meant for all brands. Still, any R5 shooters that see this will find it helpful :)
Great advise Steve. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Your tips are amazing. Thank you
Such important and crucial advice Steve! As always, thank you for such great content.
Thanks for all the tips Steve... Extremely useful as always
Thank you for the tips! I use Nikon Z 5 and I'm always interested to know how Z 9 is different.
Steve, I confirm you that the same is true for the new Fujifilm cameras (X-H2s, X-H2 and X-T5). I have tested it with each of them. This wasn't the case with older models.
The tips are very useful. Thanks Steve.
Thank you for another great video!!
Good info Steve. ** Primate eye detection** - as apes etc are primates, like we humans, I set my camera to Human eye detect when photographing them. This is due to the fact that their eyes are so similar to ours. Works well at the zoo! Shutting off subject detection at times sounds good. Cheers.
I've tried that a few times with varying success. I've put the Z9 in Auto mode and sometimes it works a little better - it depends on the primate. :) Most of the time I end up just managing AF myself though.
Thanks, logical and practical advice
Wow! Applying these tips and knowledge will cut out a lot of "Why is this not working" wasted time on a shoot. It certainly applies to video shoots too. Thank you, Steve! ⭐x5
Gracias de nuevo.y feliz año nuevo.🌟
Mucho gracias :)
Happy New Year to you as well :)
Thanks for sharing another wonderful video like always, keep up with the awesome content 🐦🤗👍
Thanks Steve! Good stuff, as always.
great tips, thank you Steve,
i often have troubles in wildlife photography with moving animals that my camera rather likes to focus on branches than on my subject, and usually they are already gone once i´m in the focus range with manual focus 😢
If you're talking about it grabbing foreground obstacles, you can often help that with the subject tracking delay setting (the name varies by manufacturer). Basically, it allows you to tell the camera to grab on immediately or hesitate for a moment. Not sure what camera you have, so I can't tell you what it's called for your brand.
@@backcountrygallery thank you very much for your reply steve, i´m using a Sony A7III.
@@ChrrZ OK, I'm not sure if the A7III has the option (I never owned one), but Sony calls the setting AF Tracking Sensitive and it's under the AF menu. Lower numbers will hold onto the subject a little longer before jumping to the foreground - but note this is ONLY if the camera is actually locked on to the target first. Might be worth playing with.
@@backcountrygallery thank you so much Steve, i will have a look at my cameras menu :-)
Very helpful vid, thanks!
I adjust my Nikon's "a3 focus tracking with lock-on" to four or five. After I lock on, this keeps the camera tracking subject longer even if a distraction passes through the frame.
Yup, it can help with Nikon. However, I don't think every camera has a similar option and some don't work well with SD (Heck, Nikon's didn't work well with SD until the recent updates).
I have a Tamron 150-600 Gen 1, and use it with my Canon R5. I tried taking pics last winter of a red cardinal on a perch with nothing behind it, except snow, it was sunny and the contast between bird and ground was unmistakable, still, the camera would not stick to the bird. I can't fathom what's going on, but I'm very disappointed in the camera & lens. Brought the combo into a camera store; they couldn't figure out what's wrong. Any suggestions?
Thanks in advance
Great tips! I’d like to see how you handle background/foreground capture on moving subjects. I shoot mostly birds with a Nikon Z9.
Thanks!
Mostly it's keeping the AF distance at about the same range as the subject. I often manually adjust on the fly, so to speak :) The other trick is using AF areas that aren't too much larger than your subject in the frame. Larger AF areas often look for easier targets than flapping birds, etc. :)
Great tips, as usual, Steve. Side note: what was up with the Osprey coming in hard at the beach? Was there something I couldn’t see?
He was after nesting material. He'd swoop in, grab some vegetative debris from the beach and take it back to his nest. He never landed, just grabbed it like a fish!
Glad to see someone finally using Vero 💪but boycott the ig 😉
Might the elephant eye be because of the dark eyes?
My om-1 have pet and bird with eye detection. Never tried it on primates though, but I will keep it in mind next time I'm going to the zoo.! 😊
The detection sensitivity is good to know also, especially when wings or grass gets in the way for a second.
Eyes on an elephant just aren't overly distinct. I also think the system looks not just for eyes, but for eyes with faces, so that might throw it off too.
Steve your photos are some of the best in the world and I often pause the video to stare at them. Might I suggest holding them in broll longer? It's not that I don't appreciate seeing you but your photos are just incredible :) peace my friend
Thanks so much :) I actually have been trying to leave them up a bit longer than I was in the past :)
I shoot a D500 but still found this very interesting. Thanks.
Thanks Steve for another interesting and informative video. On Sony cameras, do you ever use the Direct Manual Focus (DMF) as an alternative to eye focus. I have found this feature gives me the best of both auto and manual focus.
It's on my joystick press :)
However, if subject detection isn't working, I'm more likely to turn it off (I have the button for it on the center control wheel) and just us AF normally.
Great video Steve. Happy New Year
Happy new year!
nice tuto. do you have courses and tutos on sony A7IV ? i am struggling with eye detection. very often, wide (or wide tracking), zone (or zone tracking) don't recognize face of people coming to me (runner, jogger,...) and i need to switch to extended spot tracking which is amazing but i noticed that, even if face is prioritized, the extended spot must overlap the face frame otherwise focus is done on spot instead on eye
Sorry, I don't. I only have the a1 at the moment.
thanks. doesn't a1 have wide, wide tracking, zone, zone tracking, expanded spot tracking all with eye detection ?
@@marclabro Yes to all.
Another good one, the best part of subject detection is the freedom to compose how I want, and many different ways. It amazes me that people have this technology but still they only manage to centre or shoot for Instagram. What a waste of incredible ability in the gear.
Agree 100% - the main reason I love subject detection is compositional freedom.
Great Tips, Steve. 👍
Great info!
Hi Steve, how do you quickly switch between having subject detection af on and off in the moment? I have it set to my back button af, so that is my main way of focusing right now unless I manually focus.
I have recall shooting functions (hold) set to turn it off when I press in the joystick. Nikon doesn't provide a dedicated way to shut it off at the moment (and I've asked them two numerous times).
Thank Steve, learned a lot!
Great content!! I have a question why do pros mostly advise against using the 1/2 press for any focus method? I have my R5 and R6 ii both set up as follows: The 1/2 press is set to the smallest single point with 2 back buttons set to subject detection one with all the focus points (whole screen) and one restricted to a smaller zone (which can be custom defined on the R6). I shoot wildlife. With this set up and the the 1/2 press on and by testing the back buttons can determine VERY quickly which method will be my best choice without ever taking my eye off the subject in the VF. I've been using this for a long time and for it works great but whenever I mention most say its not a good set up? I tried without and felt I was missing a lot of shots. Maybe just an old habit and what I am accustomed to ??
It's just a workflow difference. I know pros who use 1/2 press for focus and think I'm crazy for sticking to BBAF. As long as your method is fast and putting keepers on the cards, I say stick with it. The only reason I'd switch is if I thought using another method would prove faster or more intuitive to use for the way I'm wired. And that's my advice to everyone - do what works well for you - that's why we have options :)
Thanks for the tips.
Informative video as always.
Excellent - As always.
DX crop mode is not different then simply zooming in (increasing magnification). A subject make lock eye detect at a 400mm zoom and fail at 300mm with the same subject and the same camera to subject distance.
Steve, great tips. But as a hobbyist photographer (Nikon Z50 owner) and can't justify the price on Nikon, Canon and Sony flagship camera. I realize Nikon cameras (not the Z9) have subpar (awful) AF for wildlife photography. Which Canon or Sony camera do you recommend for us hobbyist photographer?
Thanks!
We had an R5 for awhile and it was really good. I haven't used the Sony A75, but I hear it's good as well. Also, FWIW, the Z6/7ii aren't great, but they are useable and I have captured quite a bit of action with them.
Hey Steve ! I got a Z7(i) and I recently received the 800 6.3 ; so far subject or eye detection have never worked on a bird (even tho it works on human faces). Is it normal because of the use of a Z7(i) ? I guess a Z7(ii) would make it way better ? I do not leave a lot of comments so btw, thank you very much for you work, it helps me so much ! Regards from France !
The Z7 series does not support subject detection for birds.
Thanks Steve !
My most difficult subject is sandhill cranes. The eye is small and too far from the body. If I use spot focus the camera still constantly hunts (micro-focuses) in continuous focus. I just can't seem to ever be close enough to a crane.
If they are that far away, I wonder if you could focus on the body and still have the eye in good focus. (I'd have to see the scenario to really say one way or another - I don't like guessing :) )
FWIW, I have the opposite problem with them - most of the time I'm doing headshots. (Kensington Metropark in MI)
How do you prefocus if all you have is sky?
thanks so much.
Does the A1 show the eye tracking box in video? I haven't been able to get it to turn on even when I'm super close to birds, am I doing something wrong?
I don't do much video, but form what I understand or have read, it doesn't work in video. However, I know next to nothing about video in the a1 - you might want to ask at the BCG Forums. Someone there will know.
Sony says of the A1 that its bird recognition was based on small birds and eagles/hawks. So users can expect to see failures with eg. long-necked birds.
And that's sometimes the case - especially when they are flying.
Well Said ❤
Thank you! Just bought a Z9. Its a learning curve from my old D850. =O)
Steve does the D500 have these settings..?
Sadly, no. It's mirrorless only. No DSLRs have it.
"If subject detetion fails, use single point AF"
Me who still uses a DSLR: Sounds good!
🙏 thanks no.1 👌👌
Well told. ...Spot on. ;)
Great content but one question…how do you QUICKLY shut off subject detection so as not to lose the shot?
I have a button assigned for it. On the Sony, you can assign a specific button to turning it on and off. For the Nikon, you have to use Recall Shooting Functions to do it.
Do you have a C9 or a Z9?
I'd love to see your photo of the red-tailed hawk from Monday.
Hi Brian! Thanks for the heads-up with that guy - he was so cool! Honesty though, I didn't get anything I really liked. Back on the computer, I just wasn't digging the white sky background. Later he moved into the trees, but then the background was too busy LOL!! Can't win sometimes! I guess I'll have to head back and try again :)
@@backcountrygallery Same here with the sky background. See you there again sometime.
Great Video Steve! I think it's a shame that the Nikon Z6ii and Z7ii don't have bird detection, especially given the fact that they have people and pet eye detection.
I agree. Hopefully the MK III versions will...
Top!
Great Stuff
Thank you, this was affirming ( ;
Canon works much better detecting subjects/eye in crop mode.
Tip 0? Select the correct subject in the menu first. (For some reason my A1 likes to switch from bird to animal all by itself.)
But i have a z6
You would think that they would excel at primates (compared to birds at least)
Right???? When I first started using subject detection, I thought for sure primates would be the easiest targets. Sometimes it actually does work well, but mostly it's too hit-or-miss for me.