Junkyard engine. Ebay battery pack. Aftermarket injectors. Junkyard computer with a different part number. You're upset that it does not run like it came off the assembly line? THAT is crazy.
I know why the car was overheating. On the North American models they have a Thermos bottle type device under one of the front wheel arches When the car is started from cold the Thermos bottle opens and hot coolant flows into the engine to help warm things up faster, the bottle is also a great place for an airlock. There is also an electric pump that fills the bottle on engine shutdown. Luckily we don't have that contraption here in Australia. Also I would be concerned that the inverter cooling circuit hasn't been bled properly either, best to check temps there as well. Regarding the battery pack my first pack exhibited the same symptoms however it did something yours did not, mine would open the battery contactor with a clunk and then rev hard and had no power. Turns out I had a 2v difference between the highest and lowest voltage cell in the pack and the computer says no, the maximum allowed is 1.2v. I did look around for options when it happened and there were people who take the pack apart and mix and match cells from different cars to make a Frankenstein pack but to me that was just a waste of money as all of the cells are the same age and would start to fail soon anyway. In the end I opted for a new pack from Toyota and it has been running fine ever since.
These cars were pretty cool for the time, when they first came out. But they are an engineering nightmare. Way overcomplicated, way too much stuff that can go wrong. As the earlier gen models of these cars start aging, they are going to have so many problems that after a certain point, it's just not worth fixing. The juice isn't worth the squeeze, to coin a phrase. Also, this was probably the first car I've ever saw, that had coolant being pumped through a chamber in the exhaust system (relating to the thermos type system).
@T.J. Kong I think its partly why Toyota went for Nickel metal Hydride batteries - they are less volatile, have more cycle lives in them and probably cope with imbalances in voltage overall compared to lithium battery packs.
The owner was sold bad battery modules. The bad modules will charge quickly because they have very little capacity, similar to a lead-acid battery that has seen better days. All it takes is one module to fall out of spec to trip the light. And replacing the modules is not a simple procedure of just replacing with a bunch of random modules and calling it quits. He needs to contact a specialist like Electron Auto in California to get a decent, cycled, balanced set of modules with up to a 3 year warranty. They obtain used battery packs from core trades and probably salvage yards and have invented equipment to cycle and classify each module into one of four categories - 3 levels of battery packs and modules ready to recycle. Their battery packs are sold as a carefully balanced set of modules sent to the owner, and clearly numbered so they're assembled in a specific order, using the original case, temp probes, and battery ECU. The shipping container is then used for shipping the old modules back to Electron. The modules are carefully balanced to be able to work together and remain within spec (0.1V) between all modules as the battery charges/discharges. As for the engine: if the original engine was knocking, the car was likely dogged out, run low on oil, and not maintained properly. These engines are able to exceed 400K miles if oil changes are maintained and they're not overheated. My 2008 Prius has 240,000 miles and has the original engine (uses 1/2 qt in 5K miles) and original battery pack. I've done maintenance on the battery twice using 3 hobby chargers to cycle the modules and to clean the dust and dog hair out of the fan and ducts. I also cleaned the bus bars, since they had some corrosion (corrosion increases resistance). There are videos here on YT describing these procedures, and doing this maintenance will likely extend the life of the battery pack, since the main cause of premature battery deterioration is excessive heat. The crusty connector is likely from a water leak along the gutters of the rear hatch - common on Gen II's. There is a RUclips video describing the fix using silicone sealant. The major clue is wet carpeting on the rear deck and a mildew smell (the smell got my attention). Keep up the videos up, Ivan! I really look forward to your content.
What a nightmare. I 100% agree with Ivans conclusion. Diagnostic before part Canon. 1000 things Can go wrong in repairs and make it impossible to find the real issue. Great video. Thanks.
Yup, a friend's father had two of these and he drove one to almost 400k miles and the other to 300k, steady as rocks. A co-worker has one with north of 200. They're solid little cars if treated with a reasonable degree of care like you'd expect from a Toyota.
@Rene Neron, yea I agree. After all, even in normal combustion vehicles we've learned along with Ivan that sometimes his customers/others have replaced faulty parts with brand new parts but they cheaped out and "rigged" something or went with other than OEM and the vehicles ran as bad or worse than before, if at all... It's not always the case but many times there are vehicles/parts you can't just use "any brand of part" and expect it to run like new. What I wonder is how many of these cars have "they" tried to "fix" like this and they were just good enough to "get sold" & then unsuspecting customers get stuck with paying to have it fixed right.
Ivan Ivan Ivan, the HV (Hybrid Battery) is spanked! For starters, they do charge/discharge that quick(the HV Battery is only good for around 2km at a time at best-with Camry Hybrid's anyway), when you apply the Brakes(Regen) they do charge rather fast due to the relatively small HV capacity(unlike my Outlander PHEV which takes FOREVER)! When the battery is stuffed as that one is, they are very finicky/fussy, I drove around a couple of Hybrid Camry's (2011 & 2014 both with around 800,000kms on them for several years(7)with the Launch (loaded up on my Samsung) at the ready as when you deplete the HV Battery too much with a spanked battery(forcing it to stay electric by distance) when they throw almost any codes, the dash will light up like an Xmas Tree & can sometimes take several 'clear code' events to do(easier to just cycle the ignition power then retry). Although that Prius has what is most likely a few dead 'cells' (some of the batteries hitting almost 19v isn't good & shows that they're needing replacement. The Engine is another issue(as is any car that's down a Cylinder, they lose power). The 2011 40 Series Hybrid Camry I had, was a brilliant car if you didn't look at the instrument cluster you wouldn't believe it had done 800,000kms it & unfortunately went under a metre of water in the floods this year(still ran & did everything fine but the Insurance wrote it off as the HV System went under Water). I can't speak about the Prius personally but give me a Toyota Hybrid anyday over the POS Mitsubishi Outlander(in both Diesel & PHEV) anyway!
With the green crusties found earlier, I would suspect a water damaged system at some point in the past. If so, there are probably many more connections that are compromised. Keep up the good work.
You have a great point.With all the issues changing,on every test.My guess would be electrical,more than the actual mechanical parts.Except for the cooling,that was fluid.the brakes could be the ABS modual coming on or not releasing.I'm helping my neighbor deal with his 2009 Prius but ,i keep telling him every time BUY A FRICKING MANUAL.the worst part is we don't have a scanner,it said him IF it's a mechanical issue you MITE be able to fix it,BUT if it's electrical ,your JUST GUESSING,Great video IVAN,i was hoping you'd do more but i see why you won't.thanks
It is a hybrid. The engine is engineered to maximize efficiency over power; Atkinson cycle. Without a properly functioning battery, the car will perform very poorly. The electric motor drive is engineered to provide most of the power, with the engine operating at high efficiency only when needed to accelerate the car or charge the battery.
The brakes are also regenerative, unlike a standard car. And, as you said, If actuated, of course you will have poor acceleration. Doesn’t explain the short battery charge cycle when idling. Many issues here, but all may be related to one underlying cause.
Recalling a line from the movie 'Apollo 13', when Gene Kranz asks "Let's look at this thing from a... um, from a standpoint of status. What do we got on the spacecraft that's good?" The response? "I'll get back to you, Gene..."
As soon as you said "aftermarket fuel injectors," my heart sank. Hybrids are no place for aftermarket parts. FFS, the spark plugs are indexed from the factory; even those have to come from the dealership by VIN. I'll joke about Priuses all day long, but at the end of the day, they're good vehicles when properly maintained, and I have a tremendous amount of respect for both the technology and what Toyota managed to do both with and for the concept of hybrid vehicles.
Changing parts from different cars given a lot of problems in the Toyota hybrid system. Now it's a rabbit hole, this is never ending without enough knowledge.
Battery capacity is very dependent on temp and cooling. Any issues with the cooling are accounted for in the capacity display. I believe the battery cooling and engine cooling are separate systems but may be interconnected for battery heating in cold weather. The bleeding procedure for the cooling systems does include vac bleeding.
Wow, Since I have been watching you, always you insist on OEM parts. My friend is a mech and he is the same. Me, for my car, 2002 S10 from day one, if rock has AC Delco I will buy but usually its standard. Have been lucky so far. My wife, 2017 Accord from day one, always OEM except for the brakes. Honda breaks suck. 20k on it and the fronts were warped so bad. Rock sells power stop which I have been using for a number of years and I have had good luck with them. Otherwise, all OEM for her car. My point being you have convinced me to use OEM on my car too. So far I haven't had problem with aftermarket but having my luck it will all hit me at once. Well at least I'm retired and have the time to work on it. Thanks, and please keep them coming.
When I met my GF she had I think it was a 13 or 14 Prius. I hated that car. I did front brakes battery and tires. She bought this used from her mother. In 19 she finally decided to get a nice car. We flew to NC as it was the only Lexus in the country that had the trim package we wanted and drove it back to Florida. Her sister bought the Prius for her son while he was in college. He is still driving it. AFAIK he only replaced the 12v battery otherwise still running. I think any electric vehicle is a time bomb as replacing the battery packs as some point will be inevitable. Crazy that Prius has been through 3 family members.
Some years ago, as head mechanic for a school district. I worked on a bus every week different codes replaced electronic parts it worked a few days. Back again to the shop while on the phone for hours to one of the engineers. He said he was lost, then he said open the kick panel there is a solenoid between the battery and ECM try moving that power cable with bus running in limp mode. Soon as I moved the cables the engine stopped. Turns out every time the bus would hit a few bumps and damage different electronic parts and throw an arey of unrelated codes and the real codes. That last test was the end of the ECM we towed that bus a hundred miles they installed the ECM it worked. They said we could not install the ECM because the last time someone installed one it caught fire. That engineer said he remembered once before he had seen this. If not for him It would have been very near impossible to figure it out.
As I recall, each pack in the battery is multiple cells. The cells in each pack must be matched, or one may get reverse charged. The rapid charge/discharge cycle is something I've seen before with reachable electronics when you have a worn out battery. What happens is one cell dies, lowing the overall pack voltage to fully discharged. But once it gets any voltage, the overall pack is now suddenly full as the other cells are fully charged (or even overcharged).
I hate to see a car that gives you so much grief. Please keep us informed on the Prius and if it gets fixed with reasons, or does it go to the bone yard. Ivan what are your thoughts. Thank you for showing your thought processes throughout this crazy journey.....Pete
The H.V battery in that Prius is a Ni-mh, not a lithium ion. After a year of sitting flat its going to take quite a lot of cycles to even out. Early Prius'i are basically just overly complicated, glorified brake regeneration units that give you 10 to 15 seconds of electrical boost on acceleration. After a backyard engine swap with repeated parts cannon attacks, the next step is to get that Dino engine running right and stop it going into limp mode (which will piss off the brake regenerator). Just totally ignore the E.V side of things now, you have already fixed all that. Only then will you know just how borked that H.V battery is. You can already tell that all the E.V parts on that car are working just fine. That car is no harder to repair at this point than any high mileage Toyota. With your skills, you can EASILY fix that car blindfolded (or blind drunk). Great video as always, thanks for uploading it so that we can all share the diagnostic journey.😀
a battery (defined as more than one cell) is a more complex entity than most understand. For one thing, voltage actually tells you very little about what's going on; SOC is not the same as capacity; the health of each cell is what matters yet what is most difficult to determine. Those fluctuating voltages are likely a manifestation of reversed cells, which, if so cant be fixed. Bottom line: You can buy many used parts and be ok; a battery is not one of those things.
The battery has some dead (extremely low capacity) modules. The ones where the module voltage stays nearly constant may be OK, but the ones with wildly varying voltage have had it...
Batteries bears and brakes oh my! Practically restoring a BMW for someone, it sat and was neglected for most of its life, it sat unused for five years which is not a good idea for any vehicle let alone a Nazi mobile, the engine is solid and it runs great but every hose gasket needed replacing, the belt was squealing like crazy, I found the water pump practically seized up, it's a 2003 530i with 92,000 miles on it, I did brakes all around, oil pan gasket which was fun, most of the major work is done but now I'm getting a p01085 p01171 p01174 and one other i can't remember. I think an American car would be more forgiving but these euro bangers are like newborn babies, I'm looking for a diaper to change next, lol.
This gen prius has a hot coolant storage tank in left fender. That has to have all air removed after first start up if engine or coolant was replaced. This process will take care of its self if you cycle the engine running 3 times after first start and engine is at operating temperatures.
I wonder if this was a flood car. Eric O. did a Prius and said that seized brakes are common on the Prius because with the regenerative braking they don't get a lot of use and they get rust jacked.
He destroyed the battery with that charger and the battery was likely bad before he "charged" it anyway.. If the battery is bad, the car is going to show a whole bunch of problems depending on what's wrong with the battery, the charging system, and the monitor. It's also likely that the Greeny short caused problems. There must have been condensation or water intrusion to cause that. The car is totaled, but it isn't the car's fault.
I’ve noticed with Ni-MH batteries like what the Prius has, when they sit for long periods of time they have a sort of “high internal resistance” characteristic with high loads causing voltage sag and recharging crazy fast with very little current, and I’ve noticed if you completely charge and discharge the cells about a dozen times they usually come back to life
Aftermarket junk parts. When will they learn? Had a friend with a Jeep with low oil pressure light. In the shop a couple of times, replaced sensor, worked for a short time then light back on. Shop mentioned replacing oil pump. I told him have OEM oil pressure sensor installed. Did so, oil pressure light problem resolved.
I'm not an EV guy, my friend has a 2008 Prius they call that the triangle of death. It's bad enough you have engine trouble but now the EV part is in the dumper. LOL
From Hy-brid to Get-rid. We are going backwards. From steel to plastic. V8 power to hamster power. Great video. I know what will not be my next purchase.
With a hybrid even it you're stopped the inverter still works to supply a charging current to the low side (12V). So if your battery percents go down that fast when you stand still and the engine is not running but the car is on, your battery pack is junk. That definite.
When he replaced the cells in the battery there is a specific way it has to be done. Unless he replaced all the cells from a working known good battery, ALL the cells have to be tested. Discharged and recharged and checked. And then they need to be balanced. THAT is the only way to do it correctly. Can't just see a cell is low and swap it out. Cell needs to be balanced.
@@Not_Sure-i6o I agree. Hope he kept it but ivan actually said "he replaced the cells in the hybrid battery" which mean he (im assuming the customer)took it apart.
@@Kev-Burg You're correct, "cost him $1000" you wouldn't get a decent pack for that amount. Maybe he didn't load test each one, instead guesstimating by poking them with a voltmeter?
Trying to repair someone else's work is usually a PIA, especially if the work they have done was by using second hand or aftermarket parts. In this case your client used both. At the end of the day you resolved the no-crank-no-start. That revealed other issues that could not be foreseen until the vehicle was running. In this case other faults relating to the second hand and aftermarket parts replaced by the owner. I honestly wouldn't want to see that particular Prius back. It isn't worth your effort/reputation regardless of how many dollars the owner wants to throw your way.
The HV battery will suffer if there is a blocked coolant pipe. I would have gone after that first. The engine is meant to keep stopping: the HV battery is used for low speed motoring.
Wow! Your patience is amazing, Ivan! I was noticing the negative readings on some of the batteries. In a string of cells that way, charging current flows thru them all and produces a voltage drop, and when they are charged, they hold that same voltage polarity at rest - with no current flow. However, if during discharge one of those cells gets depleted before the others, the discharge current can actually charge the lower-capacity cell backwards. I think that's why there were some showing a negative voltage, as well as reversing polarity when the controller tried to put a charge current thru. Too bad the controller wasn't able to tell you what was happening - maybe with a Toyota scanner it could? I'm guessing (and hoping) the owner has a yard full of these things and he switches parts around get one useable. I was surprised how small the battery pack was. I guess it's a hybrid, but with limited storage capacity. I'm curious what happens to the regenerative braking when the battery is fully charged - does it still push charging current thru the battery? I guess that's possible, if the battery still accepts the current (it would) and converts the energy to heat. And what was the deal with "coolant heat storage"? How/where does it store the heat? I'd certainly tinker with one of these if it were given to me, but I can't see myself ever buying one...... To each his own!
The battery computer manages the charge of the collective cells and keeps the charge between 30% and 80% ( or thereabouts). The batteries are never fully discharged (unless the transmission is put in neutral with the car on and allowed to remain on). The regenerative braking is amazing on these cars. The battery pack has built-in capacity for excess current. When that extra space runs out, the hybrid system cuts the fuel going to the engine and engages the engine via M-1 (smaller motor that is the starter for engine AND a generator) and the planetary gear set to help slow the car, as well as the conventional brakes. So engine friction helps to slow car, which creates heat. The traction motor (M-2) can also function as a generator. It's all controlled by the inverter and three different computers. While rolling down the highway, the state of charging is controlled by varying the RPMs of the smaller motor via the large motor driving the car and the gasoline engine. When the battery is charged, the smaller motor/generator is slowed down enough to stop battery charging, but continues to feed the large electric motor without using battery power. This is done electronically in the transmission (the 2 motors are part of the transmission assembly and are in one case). Excess heat in transmission and inverter is eliminated via a separate cooling system that uses the bottom 1/3rd of the radiator, and has it's own water pump and is separate from the gas engine's cooling system. Anytime you take your foot off the accelerator, the motors function as generators, even before the brakes are applied, and the gas engine turns off most of the time. The large electric motor drives the car 100% of the time, while the gas engine assists when it's running. The gas engine isn't directly connected to the wheels, and thats how the electric motor can drive the car with gas engine off. When idling, the gas engine is usually off and car is running on battery power. The A/C is also electric (variable scroll compressor) and can operate without gas engine running. When the voltage drops low enough, the gas engine kicks on to charge the battery and turns back off after charging. The engine is started by the hybrid battery. The 12V battery is only for firing up the three computers that operate the car when car is off, and for the 12V accessories when car is powered off (lights, ABS actuator, electric water pumps) When car comes to life, 12V battery is charged and otherwise not used again while car is on. The inverter makes 12V current for items that use it. Everything is computer controlled and works well, until it doesn't! If you want to learn more, go to "Weber Automotive" for extensive info on hybrids. The professor is a walking encyclopedia. Weber State College is the sponsor, and they have AD and BS programs in auto technology.
My Daughter had one for over ten years and the only time triangle of death came on was one cell went bad and the darn electric water pump went out. She called me from side of road and i told her to have it towed to her regular Mechanic and rent a car. Go on her way and after 189,000 she traded it and bought a 2021 Rogue AWD because she lives in Tn and drives through mountains.
..."otherwise, that's a variable." That's probably what I've learned the most from you Ivan. Glad that Pri-mess is gone. Can't wait for the Christmas special!
Oh my, what a rabbit hole. Looks like the replacement parts aren't cutting it, plus given my experience with regular old NiMH chemistry in AA/AAA sizes (where self discharge can get pretty high and variable between cells, to the point where almost all of them have long gone to recycling and LSD NiMH is the default here with very few failures), I would strongly consider a LiFePO4 upgrade if the car actually is to be kept on the road. Side note, if you want to get your hands on AA/AAA LSD NiMH cells, the 1900 / 750 mAh "made in Japan" IKEA LADDAs seem to be about the equivalent of first-gen Sanyo Eneloops. I don't know how they can sell them for this cheap, maybe there was a big stash of cells left over or something and they bought a bunch. They only thing that you can kill cells like that is long-term overcharging, e.g. Gigaset DECT handsets seem to be pretty good at this (and you try getting your office folks to not leave the bloody things in their cradle all the time). Even then they'll last for at least a year. I have only ever seen a single AA Eneloop that was very toast (super high internal resistance and a bit dodgy looking as well like it may have gotten hot, I got this with a camera so no idea about its history).
Cannot believe that thing took that much coolant and I did not even run right wow very very interesting can I believe the damn thing blew the battery up in it that was scared the heck out of me thanks for the videos
Well, that junk of a car has some serious issues!! Well you did fix some of it, but glad that car is gone for good lol 😆 but glad you fixed what you were paid to do. I was trying to tell you on the screen that, turn the engine off when it was overheating!!! 😆 but you kept on doing it. You were tormenting that car lol! Great video, Ivan!
That was underwhelming! When I was watching, that behavior of the battery pack made me think of an element with problems. Then, accelerating and breaking at the same time, too rich... too many unrelated problems - it looks like a collection of car parts with problems was installed in the same vehicle. It's a relief that the owner took care of the rest, or this would reach a record number of part videos :-)
As a prius user from last 10years i am very familiar with its cons and pros.when a hybrid code is set especially P0A80 its shuts down abs eps vsc power brakes hvac means whatever consume power.only way to check what really is going on clear dtcs and see whats hard fault.there is a reservoir to store heated coolant to save power and heat up engine on next use.and it gose on and on and on.but its a very reliable car built to last but need some car.what you know its a prius and as ivan said so many timesthat moderncarsarecomputersonwheels.my question is again.why all messed up and badly repaired cars finds their way to ivan.happy holidays bro.cheers
I've had a front wheel on a motorcycle stop dead in the carpool lane due to crust blocking fluid return to the master cylinder reservoir. As I dumped heat into the rotor the fluid expanded, had nowhere to go so applied more caliper until it stopped dead. I suspect the Prius was applying full brakes to the fronts when you were on the highway.
nope, there no direct driven connection from gas engine to transmission, it's all done via planetary and the hybrid HV motor-generators. the engines in them will scream wide open to near redline and stay there to produce electric and accelerate slowly as it's struggling to do so. it's pretty much generating power off one directly engine connected motor generator and using it to power the second motor-generator to make the car move. it uses the hv battery and direct connectdd motor-generator to start the engine also, there's no regular engine starter. large piles of phoo..
Dang I was hoping he told you to fix it. I would have came up and helped you. I would have brought up 5 gal of gas. Hamburgers Hot dogs Marsh mellows and good bourbon.. We could have had a PRIUS BONFIRE.
Usually those are very reliable but of course they're not indestructible. You don't have a starter, no alternator, no clutches, brakes last longer because of regenerative braking usually the engines last a long time but this one was just a collection of problems. Maybe it had water damage or wasn't maintained properly or both or something else but this amount of issues isn't the norm.
Wow! What a basket case that thing was turning out to be. Being that the engine was replaced and the car was never driven since, I had a strong feeling that the fluids needed to be double checked. I'm glad you caught that in time Ivan. Sorry about the rant but cars like that remind me of the general everyday pos that comes through my shop sometimes, and all they want is an oil change and / or inspection. It just makes you think that some people don't give a rat's behind about their cars anymore. As long as it can still move under its own power, they seem content with it.
Ivan, I can see so many red flags on that Prius. Was that an auction salvage car? Looks like it was flooded at some point. No salt or mud flooding but some water intrusion was definitely inside, the green crustiest shouldn't be in the areas where you found them, plus the miss communication was all over the place, and the blown previous engine was most likely hydro-locked. That is the perfect car you will see for sale that has been patched together like a Frankenstein.
I think you hit the nail on the head, Ivan; the engine hasn't been run, so that could explain air trapped in the cooling system. Non-oem fuel injectors? Maybe causing the rough-running? Those things have regenerative-braking. Also, can't they run with a bad battery? They just don't get the mileage, although I thought I saw 39 mpg on the screen while you were going 35 mph. Great video!
If the batteries for the electric motor are bad, the ecu wont even let the car start the mechanical engine off of the cranking battery in most cases.. so either you pay 1000 for new battery pack, or no drivey.. why they are designed this way, that u cannot operate the electric motor and the mechanical motor independently tell you alot... THEY WANT TO SELL U EXPENSIVE BATTERIES.. Take Tesla, they are not a car company, they are a BATTERY company.
cell problem when they do high rpm no real car movement those ebay i didn't have much lock with them it's a very tedious process to ck and charge them since most of us can only do one cell at the time, I had more success with a good charger/discharger but you need one that can do high amp, I found out that the time it take to discharge those tell about the health of it, kepp up the good work enjoy watching them.
Wow, and the owner has had or has a good number of these, so it's not his first rodeo, we should keep in mind it was what amounts to a first run with a different engine, so there's always issues and even moreso with a hybrid
Diagnosing battery issues is a whole other science. It probably needs to have the battery pack analyzed, any bad cells replaced, and then the battery pack needs to be balanced. But the engine could have been cooked now if it has been run without coolant, so that's a whole other issue.
One of the only positive things I can say about this Prius is that it uses NiMH battery chemistry. That is a very safe chemistry so tinkering around is not going to burn the car down.
@@kevin9c1 Gasoline is a million times more dangerous and likely to end in a bad day while 'tinkering', yet we accept that risk for decades. lithium packs don't exactly spontaneously thermal runaway while 'tinkering' around them either. Shove a lamp post through one, then maybe, maybe not as each cell is fused. But at that point you have bigger problems anyway.
The BMS thinks that the pack has no capacity, that's why the state of charge is shooting all over the place. Is there a BMS reset function? Usually battery "fuel gauges" track and store battery capacity over time in some kind of memory, similar to learned fuel trims in an ECM (this is how they work in consumer electronics, which is what I am more familiar with). Of course, it could also think that because it has the wrong programming or something. We also don't really know what it looks like inside that pack, if everything was connected properly, or what the quality is of the "new" cells that were used. Everything with this car seems to be that same problem doesn't it? If you rebuild something big when the car is not running, how can you know if you did it right? How do you replace an engine (or apparently every other major component here) and then just walk away without being able to see if it starts? Seems crazy.
Yeah the battery pack is bad a different of .4v is bad, most likely there gotta deep cycle or replace the bad cells, also tge caliper sticking is known on hybrids and ev, because there use regen so much the calipers just seat the and rust away
Don't forget that in the last video, the replacement HV battery computer was a different part number. That may explain the battery charging/reporting problem
Hey Ivan, I'm working on a 2008 prius that was in a super tiny accident and it set a B1785 and B1786 code for "Zero Point Seat Calibration needed". Do you happen to know if any of the scan tools you recommended on your video/amazon list will perform that calibration? Thanks so much!
There should be a trouble code that says don't waste your time 😜
Exactly 🤣🤣🤣
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👍
This car has "Tech rot."
I wouldn't even use it as a parts car except maybe panels, some interior and structural.
Along with one that denotes it’s in “salvage” mode meaning it has just enough power to drive to the crusher.
Lol. I think that's code P0S
@@sixtyfiveford 🤣🤣
Junkyard engine. Ebay battery pack. Aftermarket injectors. Junkyard computer with a different part number.
You're upset that it does not run like it came off the assembly line? THAT is crazy.
. OEM to the rescue..
You did a very thorough diagnosis.
Ivan man.
It was so cool!
Prius is still junk haha
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics wft?😃
I know why the car was overheating. On the North American models they have a Thermos bottle type device under one of the front wheel arches When the car is started from cold the Thermos bottle opens and hot coolant flows into the engine to help warm things up faster, the bottle is also a great place for an airlock. There is also an electric pump that fills the bottle on engine shutdown. Luckily we don't have that contraption here in Australia. Also I would be concerned that the inverter cooling circuit hasn't been bled properly either, best to check temps there as well.
Regarding the battery pack my first pack exhibited the same symptoms however it did something yours did not, mine would open the battery contactor with a clunk and then rev hard and had no power. Turns out I had a 2v difference between the highest and lowest voltage cell in the pack and the computer says no, the maximum allowed is 1.2v. I did look around for options when it happened and there were people who take the pack apart and mix and match cells from different cars to make a Frankenstein pack but to me that was just a waste of money as all of the cells are the same age and would start to fail soon anyway. In the end I opted for a new pack from Toyota and it has been running fine ever since.
These cars were pretty cool for the time, when they first came out. But they are an engineering nightmare. Way overcomplicated, way too much stuff that can go wrong. As the earlier gen models of these cars start aging, they are going to have so many problems that after a certain point, it's just not worth fixing. The juice isn't worth the squeeze, to coin a phrase. Also, this was probably the first car I've ever saw, that had coolant being pumped through a chamber in the exhaust system (relating to the thermos type system).
I was curious about the coolant to the battery pack too. Except I'm wondering if the battery pack behavior isn't related to the batteries overheating.
3rd Gen Prius did away with that system do you use the exhaust heat to heat the coolant up quick instead
@T.J. Kong I think its partly why Toyota went for Nickel metal Hydride batteries - they are less volatile, have more cycle lives in them and probably cope with imbalances in voltage overall compared to lithium battery packs.
@@sumduma55 The only battery cooling is air cooling.
The owner was sold bad battery modules. The bad modules will charge quickly because they have very little capacity, similar to a lead-acid battery that has seen better days. All it takes is one module to fall out of spec to trip the light. And replacing the modules is not a simple procedure of just replacing with a bunch of random modules and calling it quits. He needs to contact a specialist like Electron Auto in California to get a decent, cycled, balanced set of modules with up to a 3 year warranty. They obtain used battery packs from core trades and probably salvage yards and have invented equipment to cycle and classify each module into one of four categories - 3 levels of battery packs and modules ready to recycle. Their battery packs are sold as a carefully balanced set of modules sent to the owner, and clearly numbered so they're assembled in a specific order, using the original case, temp probes, and battery ECU. The shipping container is then used for shipping the old modules back to Electron. The modules are carefully balanced to be able to work together and remain within spec (0.1V) between all modules as the battery charges/discharges. As for the engine: if the original engine was knocking, the car was likely dogged out, run low on oil, and not maintained properly. These engines are able to exceed 400K miles if oil changes are maintained and they're not overheated. My 2008 Prius has 240,000 miles and has the original engine (uses 1/2 qt in 5K miles) and original battery pack. I've done maintenance on the battery twice using 3 hobby chargers to cycle the modules and to clean the dust and dog hair out of the fan and ducts. I also cleaned the bus bars, since they had some corrosion (corrosion increases resistance). There are videos here on YT describing these procedures, and doing this maintenance will likely extend the life of the battery pack, since the main cause of premature battery deterioration is excessive heat. The crusty connector is likely from a water leak along the gutters of the rear hatch - common on Gen II's. There is a RUclips video describing the fix using silicone sealant. The major clue is wet carpeting on the rear deck and a mildew smell (the smell got my attention). Keep up the videos up, Ivan! I really look forward to your content.
What a nightmare. I 100% agree with Ivans conclusion. Diagnostic before part Canon. 1000 things Can go wrong in repairs and make it impossible to find the real issue. Great video. Thanks.
I love the way Ivan just chuckles when I would be punching everything in sight!
The diagnostic process makes me so glad that my car is a 1970 VW based Purvis Eureka (Sterling in the US). Simple electrics, no computers!
Don’t blame the car. Both the engine and the battery pack were previously replaced. Issues likely caused by poor “repairs”.
It's not the Prius' fault that a bunch of clueless ham fisted guys have been messing with it before it got to Ivan
Yea and this car is way beyond Ivan's knowledge
And no repairs, also bad parts.
Yup, a friend's father had two of these and he drove one to almost 400k miles and the other to 300k, steady as rocks. A co-worker has one with north of 200. They're solid little cars if treated with a reasonable degree of care like you'd expect from a Toyota.
@Rene Neron, yea I agree. After all, even in normal combustion vehicles we've learned along with Ivan that sometimes his customers/others have replaced faulty parts with brand new parts but they cheaped out and "rigged" something or went with other than OEM and the vehicles ran as bad or worse than before, if at all... It's not always the case but many times there are vehicles/parts you can't just use "any brand of part" and expect it to run like new. What I wonder is how many of these cars have "they" tried to "fix" like this and they were just good enough to "get sold" & then unsuspecting customers get stuck with paying to have it fixed right.
L♡VE your laugh when it all goes south! Humor rules the day!
Ivan Ivan Ivan, the HV (Hybrid Battery) is spanked! For starters, they do charge/discharge that quick(the HV Battery is only good for around 2km at a time at best-with Camry Hybrid's anyway), when you apply the Brakes(Regen) they do charge rather fast due to the relatively small HV capacity(unlike my Outlander PHEV which takes FOREVER)!
When the battery is stuffed as that one is, they are very finicky/fussy, I drove around a couple of Hybrid Camry's (2011 & 2014 both with around 800,000kms on them for several years(7)with the Launch (loaded up on my Samsung) at the ready as when you deplete the HV Battery too much with a spanked battery(forcing it to stay electric by distance) when they throw almost any codes, the dash will light up like an Xmas Tree & can sometimes take several 'clear code' events to do(easier to just cycle the ignition power then retry).
Although that Prius has what is most likely a few dead 'cells' (some of the batteries hitting almost 19v isn't good & shows that they're needing replacement. The Engine is another issue(as is any car that's down a Cylinder, they lose power).
The 2011 40 Series Hybrid Camry I had, was a brilliant car if you didn't look at the instrument cluster you wouldn't believe it had done 800,000kms it & unfortunately went under a metre of water in the floods this year(still ran & did everything fine but the Insurance wrote it off as the HV System went under Water).
I can't speak about the Prius personally but give me a Toyota Hybrid anyday over the POS Mitsubishi Outlander(in both Diesel & PHEV) anyway!
With the green crusties found earlier, I would suspect a water damaged system at some point in the past. If so, there are probably many more connections that are compromised. Keep up the good work.
You have a great point.With all the issues changing,on every test.My guess would be electrical,more than the actual mechanical parts.Except for the cooling,that was fluid.the brakes could be the ABS modual coming on or not releasing.I'm helping my neighbor deal with his 2009 Prius but ,i keep telling him every time BUY A FRICKING MANUAL.the worst part is we don't have a scanner,it said him IF it's a mechanical issue you MITE be able to fix it,BUT if it's electrical ,your JUST GUESSING,Great video IVAN,i was hoping you'd do more but i see why you won't.thanks
You are a hard-working man Ivan. Sunrise to Sunset
It is a hybrid. The engine is engineered to maximize efficiency over power; Atkinson cycle. Without a properly functioning battery, the car will perform very poorly. The electric motor drive is engineered to provide most of the power, with the engine operating at high efficiency only when needed to accelerate the car or charge the battery.
The brakes are also regenerative, unlike a standard car. And, as you said, If actuated, of course you will have poor acceleration. Doesn’t explain the short battery charge cycle when idling. Many issues here, but all may be related to one underlying cause.
@@reneneron2971 The hybrid battery is shot. The car cannot function when the battery has 10% of the capacity when new.
I can't wait until Ivan gets his 1st broken Tesla. :)
@Les Reeves wrong, all are available online for free...just subscribe to their website.
Recalling a line from the movie 'Apollo 13', when Gene Kranz asks "Let's look at this thing from a... um, from a standpoint of status. What do we got on the spacecraft that's good?"
The response? "I'll get back to you, Gene..."
As soon as you said "aftermarket fuel injectors," my heart sank. Hybrids are no place for aftermarket parts. FFS, the spark plugs are indexed from the factory; even those have to come from the dealership by VIN.
I'll joke about Priuses all day long, but at the end of the day, they're good vehicles when properly maintained, and I have a tremendous amount of respect for both the technology and what Toyota managed to do both with and for the concept of hybrid vehicles.
Happens all the time🤣
OMG... what a nightmare. Fascinating episode nonetheless !
I admire your skill and your patience thanks for the videos
Ivan, so glad you made it back to your shop. Lots of things still need attention. Glad its not sitting in my garage. Thanks for Sharing!
Changing parts from different cars given a lot of problems in the Toyota hybrid system.
Now it's a rabbit hole, this is never ending without enough knowledge.
Battery capacity is very dependent on temp and cooling. Any issues with the cooling are accounted for in the capacity display. I believe the battery cooling and engine cooling are separate systems but may be interconnected for battery heating in cold weather. The bleeding procedure for the cooling systems does include vac bleeding.
Wow,
Since I have been watching you, always you insist on OEM parts. My friend is a mech and he is the same. Me, for my car, 2002 S10 from day one, if rock has AC Delco I will buy but usually its standard. Have been lucky so far. My wife, 2017 Accord from day one, always OEM except for the brakes. Honda breaks suck. 20k on it and the fronts were warped so bad. Rock sells power stop which I have been using for a number of years and I have had good luck with them. Otherwise, all OEM for her car.
My point being you have convinced me to use OEM on my car too. So far I haven't had problem with aftermarket but having my luck it will all hit me at once. Well at least I'm retired and have the time to work on it.
Thanks, and please keep them coming.
When I met my GF she had I think it was a 13 or 14 Prius. I hated that car. I did front brakes battery and tires. She bought this used from her mother. In 19 she finally decided to get a nice car. We flew to NC as it was the only Lexus in the country that had the trim package we wanted and drove it back to Florida. Her sister bought the Prius for her son while he was in college. He is still driving it. AFAIK he only replaced the 12v battery otherwise still running. I think any electric vehicle is a time bomb as replacing the battery packs as some point will be inevitable. Crazy that Prius has been through 3 family members.
Just goes to show, you gotta know how to pick your battles. And the guy that flips the Prius's, well he's got an uphill battle with this one.
He's got fierce competition now, and just got scammed out of a perfectly good engine and battery pack
Some years ago, as head mechanic for a school district. I worked on a bus every week different codes replaced electronic parts it worked a few days. Back again to the shop while on the phone for hours to one of the engineers. He said he was lost, then he said open the kick panel there is a solenoid between the battery and ECM try moving that power cable with bus running in limp mode. Soon as I moved the cables the engine stopped. Turns out every time the bus would hit a few bumps and damage different electronic parts and throw an arey of unrelated codes and the real codes. That last test was the end of the ECM we towed that bus a hundred miles they installed the ECM it worked. They said we could not install the ECM because the last time someone installed one it caught fire. That engineer said he remembered once before he had seen this. If not for him It would have been very near impossible to figure it out.
As I recall, each pack in the battery is multiple cells. The cells in each pack must be matched, or one may get reverse charged. The rapid charge/discharge cycle is something I've seen before with reachable electronics when you have a worn out battery. What happens is one cell dies, lowing the overall pack voltage to fully discharged. But once it gets any voltage, the overall pack is now suddenly full as the other cells are fully charged (or even overcharged).
Exactly, except they don’t even have to be bad if they are simply out of balance. The cells are probably out of balance after the shorted sense wires.
@@emmettturner9452 Yeah it makes sense that with faulty balance sensors it would not charge correctly. Probably fried the hell out of them.
U have a lot of patience bro!!! Thank you I learned a lot
I hate to see a car that gives you so much grief. Please keep us informed on the Prius and if it gets fixed with reasons, or does it go to the bone yard. Ivan what are your thoughts. Thank you for showing your thought processes throughout this crazy journey.....Pete
that cars mad it worships satan
Just started watching. I predict a part 4.
part 4 of 10
The H.V battery in that Prius is a Ni-mh, not a lithium ion. After a year of sitting flat its going to take quite a lot of cycles to even out. Early Prius'i are basically just overly complicated, glorified brake regeneration units that give you 10 to 15 seconds of electrical boost on acceleration.
After a backyard engine swap with repeated parts cannon attacks, the next step is to get that Dino engine running right and stop it going into limp mode (which will piss off the brake regenerator). Just totally ignore the E.V side of things now, you have already fixed all that.
Only then will you know just how borked that H.V battery is. You can already tell that all the E.V parts on that car are working just fine.
That car is no harder to repair at this point than any high mileage Toyota. With your skills, you can EASILY fix that car blindfolded (or blind drunk).
Great video as always, thanks for uploading it so that we can all share the diagnostic journey.😀
a battery (defined as more than one cell) is a more complex entity than most understand. For one thing, voltage actually tells you very little about what's going on; SOC is not the same as capacity; the health of each cell is what matters yet what is most difficult to determine. Those fluctuating voltages are likely a manifestation of reversed cells, which, if so cant be fixed. Bottom line: You can buy many used parts and be ok; a battery is not one of those things.
Voltage does tell you the state of charge unless you need precision. You need to account for the load but it's a useful value.
The battery has some dead (extremely low capacity) modules. The ones where the module voltage stays nearly constant may be OK, but the ones with wildly varying voltage have had it...
cant be.. the customer said he had some guy replace the cells... LOL
Ivan, you need a few beers after that Prius!
Remind me never to perches one . 1992 Gulf Diesel sill tuning nixed to no electronics and so simple to repair .
Used and reworked Prius = Money pit? Yep. It does.
Great series.
Thank you, I was thinking of getting a Prius. You saved me:)
Batteries bears and brakes oh my! Practically restoring a BMW for someone, it sat and was neglected for most of its life, it sat unused for five years which is not a good idea for any vehicle let alone a Nazi mobile, the engine is solid and it runs great but every hose gasket needed replacing, the belt was squealing like crazy, I found the water pump practically seized up, it's a 2003 530i with 92,000 miles on it, I did brakes all around, oil pan gasket which was fun, most of the major work is done but now I'm getting a p01085 p01171 p01174 and one other i can't remember. I think an American car would be more forgiving but these euro bangers are like newborn babies, I'm looking for a diaper to change next, lol.
This gen prius has a hot coolant storage tank in left fender. That has to have all air removed after first start up if engine or coolant was replaced. This process will take care of its self if you cycle the engine running 3 times after first start and engine is at operating temperatures.
I can't believe the owner is putting money into this car. Crush it!
14:12 you were 100‰ correct. They call them ICE vehicles.
looks like a flooded vehicle to me. surprised you went that far, props to you
At 6.16, the red car indicator indicates "car with harpoon" through the roof. It means, take the car to the junkyard.
I wonder if this was a flood car. Eric O. did a Prius and said that seized brakes are common on the Prius because with the regenerative braking they don't get a lot of use and they get rust jacked.
He destroyed the battery with that charger and the battery was likely bad before he "charged" it anyway.. If the battery is bad, the car is going to show a whole bunch of problems depending on what's wrong with the battery, the charging system, and the monitor. It's also likely that the Greeny short caused problems. There must have been condensation or water intrusion to cause that. The car is totaled, but it isn't the car's fault.
CRUSH IT ! ! !
I’ve noticed with Ni-MH batteries like what the Prius has, when they sit for long periods of time they have a sort of “high internal resistance” characteristic with high loads causing voltage sag and recharging crazy fast with very little current, and I’ve noticed if you completely charge and discharge the cells about a dozen times they usually come back to life
Aftermarket junk parts. When will they learn? Had a friend with a Jeep with low oil pressure light. In the shop a couple of times, replaced sensor, worked for a short time then light back on. Shop mentioned replacing oil pump. I told him have OEM oil pressure sensor installed. Did so, oil pressure light problem resolved.
FYI, always check the oil, coolant and brake fluid before any test drive. Love your videos!
I'm not an EV guy, my friend has a 2008 Prius they call that the triangle of death. It's bad enough you have engine trouble but now the EV part is in the dumper. LOL
From Hy-brid to Get-rid. We are going backwards. From steel to plastic. V8 power to hamster power. Great video. I know what will not be my next purchase.
Might be worth figuring out if those differing model numbers between the battery computers means they're incompatible?
They both actually are the same. There actually is a new one that supersedes both
With a hybrid even it you're stopped the inverter still works to supply a charging current to the low side (12V). So if your battery percents go down that fast when you stand still and the engine is not running but the car is on, your battery pack is junk. That definite.
Makes you appreciate the 1968 VW Bug or even a 1973 ford pinto.
When he replaced the cells in the battery there is a specific way it has to be done. Unless he replaced all the cells from a working known good battery, ALL the cells have to be tested. Discharged and recharged and checked. And then they need to be balanced. THAT is the only way to do it correctly. Can't just see a cell is low and swap it out. Cell needs to be balanced.
Seems he got scammed out of a perfectly good engine and battery pack
@@Not_Sure-i6o Maybe, but I think ivan said he (the customer) swapped the cells out himself
@@Kev-Burg IIRC the first part in the series, he mentioned guy swapped the pack for a 'refurbished' one. Hope he kept the original pack!
@@Not_Sure-i6o I agree. Hope he kept it but ivan actually said "he replaced the cells in the hybrid battery" which mean he (im assuming the customer)took it apart.
@@Kev-Burg You're correct, "cost him $1000" you wouldn't get a decent pack for that amount.
Maybe he didn't load test each one, instead guesstimating by poking them with a voltmeter?
Trying to repair someone else's work is usually a PIA, especially if the work they have done was by using second hand or aftermarket parts. In this case your client used both. At the end of the day you resolved the no-crank-no-start. That revealed other issues that could not be foreseen until the vehicle was running. In this case other faults relating to the second hand and aftermarket parts replaced by the owner.
I honestly wouldn't want to see that particular Prius back. It isn't worth your effort/reputation regardless of how many dollars the owner wants to throw your way.
It's not the Prius' fault that a bunch of clueless ham fisted guys have been messing with it before it got to Ivan
The HV battery will suffer if there is a blocked coolant pipe. I would have gone after that first. The engine is meant to keep stopping: the HV battery is used for low speed motoring.
HV battery is it the trunk...not connected to coolant lines lol
@@PineHollowAutoDiagnostics I thought all EVs required the batteries to be cooled. I know the Prius is old, so are they not cooled on that model?
@@dennisharvey4499 it's just air cooled in those hybrids.
@@kaku_96 OK, I wonder if the cooling fan was working?
@@dennisharvey4499 in part 1 he fixed taht
I have to admit you made me nervous when I thought you were going for a 2nd test drive while the car was overheating.
Wow! Your patience is amazing, Ivan! I was noticing the negative readings on some of the batteries. In a string of cells that way, charging current flows thru them all and produces a voltage drop, and when they are charged, they hold that same voltage polarity at rest - with no current flow. However, if during discharge one of those cells gets depleted before the others, the discharge current can actually charge the lower-capacity cell backwards. I think that's why there were some showing a negative voltage, as well as reversing polarity when the controller tried to put a charge current thru. Too bad the controller wasn't able to tell you what was happening - maybe with a Toyota scanner it could? I'm guessing (and hoping) the owner has a yard full of these things and he switches parts around get one useable. I was surprised how small the battery pack was. I guess it's a hybrid, but with limited storage capacity. I'm curious what happens to the regenerative braking when the battery is fully charged - does it still push charging current thru the battery? I guess that's possible, if the battery still accepts the current (it would) and converts the energy to heat. And what was the deal with "coolant heat storage"? How/where does it store the heat? I'd certainly tinker with one of these if it were given to me, but I can't see myself ever buying one...... To each his own!
The battery computer manages the charge of the collective cells and keeps the charge between 30% and 80% ( or thereabouts). The batteries are never fully discharged (unless the transmission is put in neutral with the car on and allowed to remain on). The regenerative braking is amazing on these cars. The battery pack has built-in capacity for excess current. When that extra space runs out, the hybrid system cuts the fuel going to the engine and engages the engine via M-1 (smaller motor that is the starter for engine AND a generator) and the planetary gear set to help slow the car, as well as the conventional brakes. So engine friction helps to slow car, which creates heat. The traction motor (M-2) can also function as a generator. It's all controlled by the inverter and three different computers. While rolling down the highway, the state of charging is controlled by varying the RPMs of the smaller motor via the large motor driving the car and the gasoline engine. When the battery is charged, the smaller motor/generator is slowed down enough to stop battery charging, but continues to feed the large electric motor without using battery power. This is done electronically in the transmission (the 2 motors are part of the transmission assembly and are in one case). Excess heat in transmission and inverter is eliminated via a separate cooling system that uses the bottom 1/3rd of the radiator, and has it's own water pump and is separate from the gas engine's cooling system. Anytime you take your foot off the accelerator, the motors function as generators, even before the brakes are applied, and the gas engine turns off most of the time. The large electric motor drives the car 100% of the time, while the gas engine assists when it's running. The gas engine isn't directly connected to the wheels, and thats how the electric motor can drive the car with gas engine off. When idling, the gas engine is usually off and car is running on battery power. The A/C is also electric (variable scroll compressor) and can operate without gas engine running. When the voltage drops low enough, the gas engine kicks on to charge the battery and turns back off after charging. The engine is started by the hybrid battery. The 12V battery is only for firing up the three computers that operate the car when car is off, and for the 12V accessories when car is powered off (lights, ABS actuator, electric water pumps) When car comes to life, 12V battery is charged and otherwise not used again while car is on. The inverter makes 12V current for items that use it. Everything is computer controlled and works well, until it doesn't! If you want to learn more, go to "Weber Automotive" for extensive info on hybrids. The professor is a walking encyclopedia. Weber State College is the sponsor, and they have AD and BS programs in auto technology.
You always work on hard cases, no wonder why you are so creative, thank you
Junkyard engine, wrong battery control module, eBay parts, locked up brakes, sitting for a long time… what could go wrong?
My Daughter had one for over ten years and the only time triangle of death came on was one cell went bad and the darn electric water pump went out. She called me from side of road and i told her to have it towed to her regular Mechanic and rent a car. Go on her way and after 189,000 she traded it and bought a 2021 Rogue AWD because she lives in Tn and drives through mountains.
Sweet ride! 🤣🤣
..."otherwise, that's a variable." That's probably what I've learned the most from you Ivan. Glad that Pri-mess is gone. Can't wait for the Christmas special!
Oh my, what a rabbit hole. Looks like the replacement parts aren't cutting it, plus given my experience with regular old NiMH chemistry in AA/AAA sizes (where self discharge can get pretty high and variable between cells, to the point where almost all of them have long gone to recycling and LSD NiMH is the default here with very few failures), I would strongly consider a LiFePO4 upgrade if the car actually is to be kept on the road.
Side note, if you want to get your hands on AA/AAA LSD NiMH cells, the 1900 / 750 mAh "made in Japan" IKEA LADDAs seem to be about the equivalent of first-gen Sanyo Eneloops. I don't know how they can sell them for this cheap, maybe there was a big stash of cells left over or something and they bought a bunch. They only thing that you can kill cells like that is long-term overcharging, e.g. Gigaset DECT handsets seem to be pretty good at this (and you try getting your office folks to not leave the bloody things in their cradle all the time). Even then they'll last for at least a year. I have only ever seen a single AA Eneloop that was very toast (super high internal resistance and a bit dodgy looking as well like it may have gotten hot, I got this with a camera so no idea about its history).
All those random codes with 2 power systems is tough. Sometimes it is just better to send it to the junkyard for recycling.
Cannot believe that thing took that much coolant and I did not even run right wow very very interesting can I believe the damn thing blew the battery up in it that was scared the heck out of me thanks for the videos
Wouldn’t the cells be out of balance after the shorted pins from before? That would explain the quick charge/discharge.
You finally got it to actually run, now these are the real problems it had.
Surprised this guy was crazy enough to own so many of these. I own 1, want it gone and never want another.
You have a short or an open circuit on the wires some where on the car .
Well, that junk of a car has some serious issues!! Well you did fix some of it, but glad that car is gone for good lol 😆 but glad you fixed what you were paid to do. I was trying to tell you on the screen that, turn the engine off when it was overheating!!! 😆 but you kept on doing it. You were tormenting that car lol! Great video, Ivan!
That was underwhelming! When I was watching, that behavior of the battery pack made me think of an element with problems. Then, accelerating and breaking at the same time, too rich... too many unrelated problems - it looks like a collection of car parts with problems was installed in the same vehicle.
It's a relief that the owner took care of the rest, or this would reach a record number of part videos :-)
As a prius user from last 10years i am very familiar with its cons and pros.when a hybrid code is set especially P0A80 its shuts down abs eps vsc power brakes hvac means whatever consume power.only way to check what really is going on clear dtcs and see whats hard fault.there is a reservoir to store heated coolant to save power and heat up engine on next use.and it gose on and on and on.but its a very reliable car built to last but need some car.what you know its a prius and as ivan said so many timesthat moderncarsarecomputersonwheels.my question is again.why all messed up and badly repaired cars finds their way to ivan.happy holidays bro.cheers
I've had a front wheel on a motorcycle stop dead in the carpool lane due to crust blocking fluid return to the master cylinder reservoir. As I dumped heat into the rotor the fluid expanded, had nowhere to go so applied more caliper until it stopped dead. I suspect the Prius was applying full brakes to the fronts when you were on the highway.
nope, there no direct driven connection from gas engine to transmission, it's all done via planetary and the hybrid HV motor-generators. the engines in them will scream wide open to near redline and stay there to produce electric and accelerate slowly as it's struggling to do so. it's pretty much generating power off one directly engine connected motor generator and using it to power the second motor-generator to make the car move. it uses the hv battery and direct connectdd motor-generator to start the engine also, there's no regular engine starter. large piles of phoo..
Dang I was hoping he told you to fix it. I would have came up and helped you. I would have brought up 5 gal of gas. Hamburgers Hot dogs Marsh mellows and good bourbon.. We could have had a PRIUS BONFIRE.
So with hybrid you get 2 times the issues....battery and enging. Nice. Great car if you love working on your car all the time.
Usually those are very reliable but of course they're not indestructible. You don't have a starter, no alternator, no clutches, brakes last longer because of regenerative braking usually the engines last a long time but this one was just a collection of problems. Maybe it had water damage or wasn't maintained properly or both or something else but this amount of issues isn't the norm.
Wow! What a basket case that thing was turning out to be. Being that the engine was replaced and the car was never driven since, I had a strong feeling that the fluids needed to be double checked. I'm glad you caught that in time Ivan. Sorry about the rant but cars like that remind me of the general everyday pos that comes through my shop sometimes, and all they want is an oil change and / or inspection. It just makes you think that some people don't give a rat's behind about their cars anymore. As long as it can still move under its own power, they seem content with it.
Ivan, I can see so many red flags on that Prius. Was that an auction salvage car? Looks like it was flooded at some point. No salt or mud flooding but some water intrusion was definitely inside, the green crustiest shouldn't be in the areas where you found them, plus the miss communication was all over the place, and the blown previous engine was most likely hydro-locked. That is the perfect car you will see for sale that has been patched together like a Frankenstein.
I think you hit the nail on the head, Ivan; the engine hasn't been run, so that could explain air trapped in the cooling system. Non-oem fuel injectors? Maybe causing the rough-running? Those things have regenerative-braking. Also, can't they run with a bad battery? They just don't get the mileage, although I thought I saw 39 mpg on the screen while you were going 35 mph. Great video!
If the batteries for the electric motor are bad, the ecu wont even let the car start the mechanical engine off of the cranking battery in most cases.. so either you pay 1000 for new battery pack, or no drivey.. why they are designed this way, that u cannot operate the electric motor and the mechanical motor independently tell you alot... THEY WANT TO SELL U EXPENSIVE BATTERIES.. Take Tesla, they are not a car company, they are a BATTERY company.
@@randy1ization I imagine they realized how much markup they could add to a big integrated battery pack like that.
@@LegendLength yes, they control the product thru patents, and set whatever price they want., either u pay up, or your carlos walker.
cell problem when they do high rpm no real car movement those ebay i didn't have much lock with them it's a very tedious process to ck and charge them since most of us can only do one cell at the time, I had more success with a good charger/discharger but you need one that can do high amp, I found out that the time it take to discharge those tell about the health of it, kepp up the good work enjoy watching them.
You wasn't kidding about the 7 parts lol... 🤣🤣🤣
Wow, and the owner has had or has a good number of these, so it's not his first rodeo, we should keep in mind it was what amounts to a first run with a different engine, so there's always issues and even moreso with a hybrid
Give the owner a map to the nearest scrap yard, and tell him you've booked it in 😂
It's not the Prius' fault that a bunch of clueless ham fisted guys have been messing with it before it got to Ivan
Diagnosing battery issues is a whole other science. It probably needs to have the battery pack analyzed, any bad cells replaced, and then the battery pack needs to be balanced. But the engine could have been cooked now if it has been run without coolant, so that's a whole other issue.
One of the only positive things I can say about this Prius is that it uses NiMH battery chemistry. That is a very safe chemistry so tinkering around is not going to burn the car down.
Nonsense, those batteries will still output spanner melting power
@@Not_Sure-i6o Yeah, so will a lead acid battery. My point was they won't do lithium-style thermal runaway stuff.
@@kevin9c1 Gasoline is a million times more dangerous and likely to end in a bad day while 'tinkering', yet we accept that risk for decades.
lithium packs don't exactly spontaneously thermal runaway while 'tinkering' around them either. Shove a lamp post through one, then maybe, maybe not as each cell is fused. But at that point you have bigger problems anyway.
@@kevin9c1 Also a lead acid is 12V. 200V DC is no fun to get stuck to
The BMS thinks that the pack has no capacity, that's why the state of charge is shooting all over the place. Is there a BMS reset function? Usually battery "fuel gauges" track and store battery capacity over time in some kind of memory, similar to learned fuel trims in an ECM (this is how they work in consumer electronics, which is what I am more familiar with). Of course, it could also think that because it has the wrong programming or something. We also don't really know what it looks like inside that pack, if everything was connected properly, or what the quality is of the "new" cells that were used.
Everything with this car seems to be that same problem doesn't it? If you rebuild something big when the car is not running, how can you know if you did it right? How do you replace an engine (or apparently every other major component here) and then just walk away without being able to see if it starts? Seems crazy.
The battery ECU he gave you MIGHT / IS incompatible !
Yeah the battery pack is bad a different of .4v is bad, most likely there gotta deep cycle or replace the bad cells, also tge caliper sticking is known on hybrids and ev, because there use regen so much the calipers just seat the and rust away
which brand and model of scanner would you recommend for just starting out
I think after two hundred thousand miles it's time to retire that thing. Thanks for the ride along.
That's the classic head gasket knock
are the individual cells in the HV bat half or quarter size? it is supposedly rebuilt. but after-market cells?
Don't forget that in the last video, the replacement HV battery computer was a different part number. That may explain the battery charging/reporting problem
Nah the aftermarket battery pack is junk lol
What the heck - They keep the guy off the streets and out of the bars. ;) What a flippin' nightmare.
The battery ECU replacement had a different part number than the original...... I wonder if that is contributing to the unhappiness?
That is one Prius with a plethora of problems!
Hey Ivan,
I'm working on a 2008 prius that was in a super tiny accident and it set a B1785 and B1786 code for "Zero Point Seat Calibration needed". Do you happen to know if any of the scan tools you recommended on your video/amazon list will perform that calibration? Thanks so much!
I normally don't wake up this early. I didn't go to bed until 5:30 A.M.