Kia and Hyundai will flatten the 12 volt battery due to something keeping the processor awake. If any doors are left open or bonnet open car will not go into sleep mode. Hyundai did do fix for my old Ioniq 38kw allowing car to charge battery every 4 hours. Twice the emergency call system operated for no reason leading flat battery. The only way to reset it was to remove negative lead for 30 seconds. A dc clamp meter is very handy and jump 12 volt jump pack. Another thing that helps is 12 volt Bluetooth battery monitor.
Thanks, Nigel. Getting my first EV soon, so good to know to keep an eye on the 12v. When I was growing up, and much later - when my own family were young, - nursing old an 12v along was a given. The best we achieved was 12 years out of our Zafira's original Vauxhall battery. It got swapped by RAC one day after a no - start. They were called out again a week later to a no start - it was the alternator that had failed - so just poor diagnosis or an intermittent charging fault. Shame, I reckon the original battery would have lasted longer 😁😁🤣🤣
Bosch and Varta are the same batteries these days. Varta Black = Bosch S3 Varta Blue = Bosch S4 Varta Silver = Bosch S5 Bosch make it easy, the final number is how many years warranty the battery comes with. Quite simply if a battery doesn't quite make the QC cut for the S5, it will be demoted to the S4 range and so on. An AGM battery will last longer than a regular lead acid 12V, but the ultimate would be to go lithium based. A high quality battery charger/maintainer will be able to put your old battery through a proper cycle and may be able to bring it back to almost full health. Even my Topdon TB6000 Pro does a good job of testing 12V batteries and sometimes bringing them back to good health.
Good advice. Being a Kia e-Niro owner and a Home Assistant user, I've been using the integration (via HACS) to monitor the 12v battery, as well as other things. There's also an option of the "Battery Monitor BM2" recommended by Mr EV (Andrew Till). I bought this after watching his videos about his e-Niro having issues (and it was before I'd got the HACS integration up and running). The BM2 is a good option for those that aren't too technical, or don't want to use Home Assistant. Another option is via an OBD2 adapter (I've got one of those too) with something like Car Scanner. For my e-Niro though ... so far, so good and no issues but, like yourself, I'm keeping an eye on things.
Your battery seemed to suffer from Sulfation, formation of lead crystals, which degrades the life and charge rate. As for the smart charge, if the vehicle HV battery is fully charged most won’t trickle charge the 12v battery after that. MG EVs suffered terribly until the software for the vehicle was updated. Not an OTA update but dealer update. You did the right thing getting the battery fitted professionally as most new battery/ vehicles require software to adapt the battery, basically resetting the car to not treat new battery like the old one. Keep the updates coming.
On my Kia Niro EV, (72 plate) I have had one instance of the 12v getting low, during the winter (6 months after I bought it second hand). First symptom was the drivers door failing unlock / lock, I didn't twig what was happening, it got worse over a couple of weeks, then I ended up having to use a 12v jump pack to get the car started. Measuring the battery voltage it was down to 11.7V before I put the booster on. Rang my nearest Kia garage and was informed that they didn't have any replacement batteries in stock, as they had had a run on them. but one of the staff suggested, based their experience with their own car (I think it was a Soul), that I could try charging the battery on the vehicle so long as it was with a modern automatic charger. Also to turn off all possible battery drains in particular the auto welcome, where the lights turn on and bits wake up, when you approach the car with the key. I have a modern Halfords charger from using it with my old ICE car, so I stuck that on it for 24 hours And turned off all the suggested power drains. The problem has not recurred since (8 months later). Following discussions on the forums, I have since fitted a Bluetooth battery monitor (BM2) (I didn't know about the home automation thingy) and that shows the battery being charged in bursts but staying with a minimum of 12.5V.
Thanks for this. The minute there is indication of 12v issues on my cars over the years I check drain and then change it. Cheaper to change than risk a breakdown. I do keep a booster in the car whether ICE or EV. Just changed an ICE Nissan Micra after 7 years so had good value on that.
We have a Nissan Leaf bought from new and it still has the same 12v battery it is trickle charged with a solar panel on the back spoiler and has never been an issue. Just bought a 2020 Kia Niro and have had a warning message to say 12v is low. So now I smart charge it once a month to hopefully prolong hits life
@@EVPuzzle I would just like to add a big thank you for the information you have given me over the last few years to enable me to to make decisions on converting to an all electric house which we have now completed. Without Chanel’s like yourself and Tim & Kate I would have found it difficult to make the decision for our house as there is no where else to go to get honest unbiased information.
As an ev owner I also now own a small booster pack. As my car can be opened with a blade key if necessary and the bonnet is a cable release, it is easy to get in, open up and put the jump pack across the battery. You don't need a big booster, just a basic one. Would be sensible to show Susan how to use the booster and leave it with the charge leads.
Hi Nigel. I had the 12V battery fail on our eSoul at the 30 month mark with no warning. I sourced a new one just like you with a higher Ahr rating. I also fitted a BM2 bluetooth battery monitor, which I highly recommend. £20 off Amazon. It was fine after that with no signs of the new battery being under any stress. When Susan wants the car open for a while at shows, have you looked at using Utility Mode? People use it for camping, keeping dogs in with AC/heating on, etc. Accessible from the menus, it runs things off the HV battery without depleting the 12V battery. We recently replaced our car with a newer eSoul (blue), which is about 30 months old. I’m watching the 12V battery monitor carefully to be sure I don’t have a battery failure sneak up on me again. 😂. Thanks for all your videos.
Yes I've recommended utility mode once a day for 30-60 mins if camping etc but of course she does remember lol Utility mode charges 12v too I know it's all doom and gloom negativity but Id rather be cautious and look after the 12v
My 2020 Soul went flat thanks to Octopus trying to control the main battery charger, my issue was I didn't always want it to charge the car, so told the Zappi not to charge it. But because it tried to communicate with the car it killed the battery. Once one of these batteries go flat, they never recover to the their full potential, so the next time it failed was because i left the tailgate open for no more than 20 minutes. I bought a new battery from Tanya and also Octopus now control the Zappi so there is little chance of it flattening again. I also use utility mode or leave the car on rather than just relying on the 12v if i'm sitting in the car waiting for something.
PS - those original Nissan Leaf solar panels on the spoiler for the 12v were ideal. We use them on small aircraft too for the instrument batteries. Keeps the battery charged and healthy, unless regularly garaged.
Great video as always, It's crazy that an EV uses a battery designed for CCA when it doesn't have to turn a starter motor! Surely a lithium battery would serve a much better purpose. I would advise a victron mains charger to do a regular charge as they are excellent for maintaining lead acid batteries. To be fair if you get 5 year service it's not worth worrying about.
Hi mate had to call out my breakdown service earlier last month due to the Niro having the 12v dying 😢 replaced it with yuasa upgrade but have recently saw solid state batteries are becoming available with much longer life cycles hopefully when I purchase my next bev the EV5 SS batteries will be at least on the 12v 😂😂😂 Cheers
I'm amazed that people are reluctant to replace a consumable part on an EV. I have a 4 year old Egolf and primitively replaced the battery with another with a 4 year warranty for around £100. Being the Golf, it could accommodate a battery about 30% bigger (for the diesel cars). This bigger battery is heavier but the strain on this battery is less. If it fails in the next 4 years I simply take it back to eurocarparts. I always buy over the counter rather than mail order as I don't need the faff with postage if they send the wrong one or warranty. I was able to give my old battery to someone who had a 14 year old one on a fiesta which they need to keep running for a couple of months.
Recently the 12 V battery in our new Ioniq 6 died after AC charging. Apparently, one of the computers did not shut down draining the auxiliary battery completely, going to 6 volts, while the HV battery remained at 100%. 🤷♂️ So, still problems in 2024 Hyundai/Kia cannot solve. P.S.: The car was locked. I know, because I couldn't get into the damn thing. Wonderful idea from Hyundai to not keep the physical emergency key in the key fob for this model.
Poo pants of a system not shutting down . All these sensors and they can't detect it hasn't shut down 😞 Obviously an inherited design flaw in there somewhere
I would recommend a basic ctek charger. Fit the 'comfort connector' to the battery (it's a quick connector) and give the battery a full charge once fortnight or once a month. You could even use the ctek from one of your powerbanks when at the dog shows. Batteries don't like being less than fully charged and the cars charger is never giving the battery a full top off for several hours to get all the cells balanced. What probably happens is that one cell gets low and is never allowed to recover due to the intermittent charging.
Good points. The size and quality of batteries is questionable. I’ve had an ICE Ford 25 years ago that lasted 18 years life of car and a 2017 lasting only 2 years. It seems the EV 12v isn’t charged enough from the HV. Failing of auto door unlocking is early symptom on e-c4 and Mokka and an hours charging in ready mode solved it. My first MG ZS already came with a new Varta replacing the SAIC 12v. As you say, once 12v is failing it needs replacing and keeping eye on length of maximum charging is a good indicator of health. Every EV brand seems to suffer, but never had problems and have always given extra charging while stationary in ready mode without heating or accessories, especially in winter. Cheers.
The "old way" is you put a heavy load on the battery (purpose built testers used heating coils, I used to use high beam headlights or monitoring voltage while cranking) while monitoring the voltage for at least 15 seconds and the voltage needs to stay high enough (don't remember the number offhand, my tester has the ranges labeled). The newer way can do that more quickly without so much heat and also detect internal resistance and general condition using high frequency signals / loads on the battery and produce a report. So far all the batteries I've tested both ways produce an equivalent good/not result for both tests.
THX for the information. The battery you chose fits to the e-Niro as well. What app did you use to analyze the car battery level? Greetings from Bavaria.
Just changed the battery on my 3 year old MG5 - a couple of HV Battery Shutdown messages when turning on after a short drive made me think it was time. Went for a slightly upgraded 64Ah vs 55Ah on OEM battery.
The battery in petrol car suffered badly in lockdown when it was not driven for weeks. It was deep discharged several times and I had to get a replacement. Why would this happen in a EV when the 12V is topped up from the 400V?
I did see a video a few years ago suggesting that the jolt from a starter motor was actually good for a 12v battery. The last ICE car I bought new still had the original battery when I sold it after ten years. It's true that electronics being on all of the time doesn't help. I'd have thought an annual 12v battery health check a good idea. A weak point on EVs that really needs fixing
Interesting... any chance of a link to that 12v voltage gauge? The 12v battery went 5 years into my original Soul EV's life. It was during a very cold winter which I assumed was the issue, but maybe not now!
Hi all, can anyone confirm whether this 12 volt status of charge or not charging whilst driving EV 's is the same for all manufacturers? I ask since we have a usb monitor in our Corsa EV ,from new, it always shows 13.5 to 14.5 when driving whether long or short drives. This tells me the 12 volt battery is always getting a small charge just like an ice car alternator system! The only time the USB shows a lower 12v or 11.5 is when accessories position is on but car not yet 'live' Once car is set to 'live' USB volt drops initially to 5 to 8 volts then quickly to 13.5 or 14.5 volts as charging is activated.Any comments?
E Soul was the old model name, it's now called Soul EV. Pedantic I know but irritating nevertheless. The app will tell you if there is a problem with the 12v battery by showing a warning even if it hasn't failed yet. If you're still using UVO I would update to Kia Connect.
It's an ESoul and always will be , newer ones maybe have new names officially but it's annoying as original names stick . I've found and heard the warning is too late on the app
Octopus July billing - check them carefully! Mine seemed very low so I opened the pdf and even though it was dated 24th June to 27 July it actual only covered 24 June to 30th June ie up to the change in the price cap. Raised it with Octopus as normally when the rate price changes I get one bill with pre and post rate change breakdowns on it. Very convoluted email back this morning with a new 1st July to 25th July bill on the new tariff rates. No reason given why I didn’t get a single billing with two price sections like I normally do when the kW rates change - I suspect that it was “a computer error” . Anyway the correct two debits have now been taken. Solar generation here-in July hasn’t been as good as last year so it hasn’t contributed as much as it did last year or in June
All the electronics use 12v, it cost too much to reengineer all components and switches etc to different voltage . Why it can't be a more modern lighter lithium Im confused at
Nissan seem to get this very right in our Leaf, I use leaf spy to see what the voltage is and it is always on 14v when the car is turned on, it never reduces to the 12v you see when the car is off. I changed the 12v in our 2018 Leaf a couple of months ago after Cleevely mobile had tested it and seen it was at 65%, no different to any ICE car, just remove and replace, nothing changed except the default tyre pressure changed to kPa.
Very helpful video as I have a Kia Soul 2021 (a few months younger than yours). Mr EV had problems with his 12V battery in his Kia Niro a few years ago, he bought a device that monitors the 12V continuously. (I've just watched his recent video which hints at problems to be revealed in his next video). I will monitor my battery and change before it becomes an issue (I hope). Mr EV: ruclips.net/video/sp_X0FN4J3M/видео.html
Kia and Hyundai will flatten the 12 volt battery due to something keeping the processor awake. If any doors are left open or bonnet open car will not go into sleep mode. Hyundai did do fix for my old Ioniq 38kw allowing car to charge battery every 4 hours. Twice the emergency call system operated for no reason leading flat battery. The only way to reset it was to remove negative lead for 30 seconds. A dc clamp meter is very handy and jump 12 volt jump pack. Another thing that helps is 12 volt Bluetooth battery monitor.
Thanks, Nigel. Getting my first EV soon, so good to know to keep an eye on the 12v. When I was growing up, and much later - when my own family were young, - nursing old an 12v along was a given. The best we achieved was 12 years out of our Zafira's original Vauxhall battery. It got swapped by RAC one day after a no - start. They were called out again a week later to a no start - it was the alternator that had failed - so just poor diagnosis or an intermittent charging fault. Shame, I reckon the original battery would have lasted longer 😁😁🤣🤣
Bosch and Varta are the same batteries these days.
Varta Black = Bosch S3
Varta Blue = Bosch S4
Varta Silver = Bosch S5
Bosch make it easy, the final number is how many years warranty the battery comes with. Quite simply if a battery doesn't quite make the QC cut for the S5, it will be demoted to the S4 range and so on.
An AGM battery will last longer than a regular lead acid 12V, but the ultimate would be to go lithium based.
A high quality battery charger/maintainer will be able to put your old battery through a proper cycle and may be able to bring it back to almost full health.
Even my Topdon TB6000 Pro does a good job of testing 12V batteries and sometimes bringing them back to good health.
That's genuinely fascinating so I've bought a grade 2 Bosch battery 🔋
Good advice. Being a Kia e-Niro owner and a Home Assistant user, I've been using the integration (via HACS) to monitor the 12v battery, as well as other things. There's also an option of the "Battery Monitor BM2" recommended by Mr EV (Andrew Till). I bought this after watching his videos about his e-Niro having issues (and it was before I'd got the HACS integration up and running). The BM2 is a good option for those that aren't too technical, or don't want to use Home Assistant. Another option is via an OBD2 adapter (I've got one of those too) with something like Car Scanner. For my e-Niro though ... so far, so good and no issues but, like yourself, I'm keeping an eye on things.
Wise, with all this AI out there you'd think Kia and Hyundai could learn how to detect 12v issues
Your battery seemed to suffer from Sulfation, formation of lead crystals, which degrades the life and charge rate. As for the smart charge, if the vehicle HV battery is fully charged most won’t trickle charge the 12v battery after that. MG EVs suffered terribly until the software for the vehicle was updated. Not an OTA update but dealer update. You did the right thing getting the battery fitted professionally as most new battery/ vehicles require software to adapt the battery, basically resetting the car to not treat new battery like the old one. Keep the updates coming.
On my Kia Niro EV, (72 plate) I have had one instance of the 12v getting low, during the winter (6 months after I bought it second hand).
First symptom was the drivers door failing unlock / lock, I didn't twig what was happening, it got worse over a couple of weeks, then I ended up having to use a 12v jump pack to get the car started.
Measuring the battery voltage it was down to 11.7V before I put the booster on.
Rang my nearest Kia garage and was informed that they didn't have any replacement batteries in stock, as they had had a run on them. but one of the staff suggested, based their experience with their own car (I think it was a Soul), that I could try charging the battery on the vehicle so long as it was with a modern automatic charger.
Also to turn off all possible battery drains in particular the auto welcome, where the lights turn on and bits wake up, when you approach the car with the key.
I have a modern Halfords charger from using it with my old ICE car, so I stuck that on it for 24 hours
And turned off all the suggested power drains.
The problem has not recurred since (8 months later).
Following discussions on the forums, I have since fitted a Bluetooth battery monitor (BM2) (I didn't know about the home automation thingy) and that shows the battery being charged in bursts but staying with a minimum of 12.5V.
Thanks for this. The minute there is indication of 12v issues on my cars over the years I check drain and then change it. Cheaper to change than risk a breakdown. I do keep a booster in the car whether ICE or EV. Just changed an ICE Nissan Micra after 7 years so had good value on that.
We have a Nissan Leaf bought from new and it still has the same 12v battery it is trickle charged with a solar panel on the back spoiler and has never been an issue.
Just bought a 2020 Kia Niro and have had a warning message to say 12v is low. So now I smart charge it once a month to hopefully prolong hits life
Some manufacturers are just better at this simple stuff than others
@@EVPuzzle I would just like to add a big thank you for the information you have given me over the last few years to enable me to to make decisions on converting to an all electric house which we have now completed. Without Chanel’s like yourself and Tim & Kate I would have found it difficult to make the decision for our house as there is no where else to go to get honest unbiased information.
@@SimonPerkins-j8r really kind of you, thanks
Warms me through knowing the info I try to share is useful.
It's why I do it
As an ev owner I also now own a small booster pack. As my car can be opened with a blade key if necessary and the bonnet is a cable release, it is easy to get in, open up and put the jump pack across the battery.
You don't need a big booster, just a basic one.
Would be sensible to show Susan how to use the booster and leave it with the charge leads.
Have done but she doesn't remember such things 😔
Hi Nigel. I had the 12V battery fail on our eSoul at the 30 month mark with no warning. I sourced a new one just like you with a higher Ahr rating. I also fitted a BM2 bluetooth battery monitor, which I highly recommend. £20 off Amazon. It was fine after that with no signs of the new battery being under any stress. When Susan wants the car open for a while at shows, have you looked at using Utility Mode? People use it for camping, keeping dogs in with AC/heating on, etc. Accessible from the menus, it runs things off the HV battery without depleting the 12V battery. We recently replaced our car with a newer eSoul (blue), which is about 30 months old. I’m watching the 12V battery monitor carefully to be sure I don’t have a battery failure sneak up on me again. 😂. Thanks for all your videos.
Yes I've recommended utility mode once a day for 30-60 mins if camping etc but of course she does remember lol
Utility mode charges 12v too
I know it's all doom and gloom negativity but Id rather be cautious and look after the 12v
My 2020 Soul went flat thanks to Octopus trying to control the main battery charger, my issue was I didn't always want it to charge the car, so told the Zappi not to charge it. But because it tried to communicate with the car it killed the battery. Once one of these batteries go flat, they never recover to the their full potential, so the next time it failed was because i left the tailgate open for no more than 20 minutes. I bought a new battery from Tanya and also Octopus now control the Zappi so there is little chance of it flattening again. I also use utility mode or leave the car on rather than just relying on the 12v if i'm sitting in the car waiting for something.
PS - those original Nissan Leaf solar panels on the spoiler for the 12v were ideal. We use them on small aircraft too for the instrument batteries. Keeps the battery charged and healthy, unless regularly garaged.
Great video as always, It's crazy that an EV uses a battery designed for CCA when it doesn't have to turn a starter motor! Surely a lithium battery would serve a much better purpose. I would advise a victron mains charger to do a regular charge as they are excellent for maintaining lead acid batteries. To be fair if you get 5 year service it's not worth worrying about.
Hi mate had to call out my breakdown service earlier last month due to the Niro having the 12v dying 😢 replaced it with yuasa upgrade but have recently saw solid state batteries are becoming available with much longer life cycles hopefully when I purchase my next bev the EV5 SS batteries will be at least on the 12v 😂😂😂 Cheers
I'm amazed that people are reluctant to replace a consumable part on an EV. I have a 4 year old Egolf and primitively replaced the battery with another with a 4 year warranty for around £100. Being the Golf, it could accommodate a battery about 30% bigger (for the diesel cars). This bigger battery is heavier but the strain on this battery is less. If it fails in the next 4 years I simply take it back to eurocarparts. I always buy over the counter rather than mail order as I don't need the faff with postage if they send the wrong one or warranty. I was able to give my old battery to someone who had a 14 year old one on a fiesta which they need to keep running for a couple of months.
Recently the 12 V battery in our new Ioniq 6 died after AC charging.
Apparently, one of the computers did not shut down draining the auxiliary battery completely, going to 6 volts, while the HV battery remained at 100%. 🤷♂️
So, still problems in 2024 Hyundai/Kia cannot solve.
P.S.: The car was locked. I know, because I couldn't get into the damn thing. Wonderful idea from Hyundai to not keep the physical emergency key in the key fob for this model.
Poo pants of a system not shutting down . All these sensors and they can't detect it hasn't shut down 😞
Obviously an inherited design flaw in there somewhere
I would recommend a basic ctek charger. Fit the 'comfort connector' to the battery (it's a quick connector) and give the battery a full charge once fortnight or once a month. You could even use the ctek from one of your powerbanks when at the dog shows. Batteries don't like being less than fully charged and the cars charger is never giving the battery a full top off for several hours to get all the cells balanced. What probably happens is that one cell gets low and is never allowed to recover due to the intermittent charging.
Good points. The size and quality of batteries is questionable. I’ve had an ICE Ford 25 years ago that lasted 18 years life of car and a 2017 lasting only 2 years. It seems the EV 12v isn’t charged enough from the HV. Failing of auto door unlocking is early symptom on e-c4 and Mokka and an hours charging in ready mode solved it. My first MG ZS already came with a new Varta replacing the SAIC 12v. As you say, once 12v is failing it needs replacing and keeping eye on length of maximum charging is a good indicator of health. Every EV brand seems to suffer, but never had problems and have always given extra charging while stationary in ready mode without heating or accessories, especially in winter. Cheers.
The "old way" is you put a heavy load on the battery (purpose built testers used heating coils, I used to use high beam headlights or monitoring voltage while cranking) while monitoring the voltage for at least 15 seconds and the voltage needs to stay high enough (don't remember the number offhand, my tester has the ranges labeled). The newer way can do that more quickly without so much heat and also detect internal resistance and general condition using high frequency signals / loads on the battery and produce a report. So far all the batteries I've tested both ways produce an equivalent good/not result for both tests.
THX for the information. The battery you chose fits to the e-Niro as well. What app did you use to analyze the car battery level? Greetings from Bavaria.
Home Assistant and the Kia uvo integration which shows high voltage % range odometer, locked, charging, efficiency etc
@@EVPuzzle THX
Just changed the battery on my 3 year old MG5 - a couple of HV Battery Shutdown messages when turning on after a short drive made me think it was time. Went for a slightly upgraded 64Ah vs 55Ah on OEM battery.
I am going to check the voltage on mine NOW.
also leave the main battery on, if comming and going.
Wise to check
The battery in petrol car suffered badly in lockdown when it was not driven for weeks. It was deep discharged several times and I had to get a replacement. Why would this happen in a EV when the 12V is topped up from the 400V?
I did see a video a few years ago suggesting that the jolt from a starter motor was actually good for a 12v battery. The last ICE car I bought new still had the original battery when I sold it after ten years. It's true that electronics being on all of the time doesn't help. I'd have thought an annual 12v battery health check a good idea. A weak point on EVs that really needs fixing
That's the problem , mine was checked as it came off and it tested fine amps and volts etc . It's really hard to see degradation in 12v so it seems
@@EVPuzzle maybe lithium ion 12v batteries would be better? Definitely an issue anti EV people seize upon.
My 12v failed [kona] and the Aa chap said they fail in 18-30months…and there is no 12v warning light. Grrrr
Yep hence doing your own monitoring is a good thing
Interesting... any chance of a link to that 12v voltage gauge? The 12v battery went 5 years into my original Soul EV's life. It was during a very cold winter which I assumed was the issue, but maybe not now!
There's several on Amazon and eBay just search car 12v usb adapter . The one I have is a few years old so no longer available
Hi all, can anyone confirm whether this 12 volt status of charge or not charging whilst driving EV 's is the same for all manufacturers? I ask since we have a usb monitor in our Corsa EV ,from new, it always shows 13.5 to 14.5 when driving whether long or short drives. This tells me the 12 volt battery is always getting a small charge just like an ice car alternator system! The only time the USB shows a lower 12v or 11.5 is when accessories position is on but car not yet 'live' Once car is set to 'live' USB volt drops initially to 5 to 8 volts then quickly to 13.5 or 14.5 volts as charging is activated.Any comments?
E Soul was the old model name, it's now called Soul EV.
Pedantic I know but irritating nevertheless.
The app will tell you if there is a problem with the 12v battery by showing a warning even if it hasn't failed yet.
If you're still using UVO I would update to Kia Connect.
It's an ESoul and always will be , newer ones maybe have new names officially but it's annoying as original names stick .
I've found and heard the warning is too late on the app
Octopus July billing - check them carefully! Mine seemed very low so I opened the pdf and even though it was dated 24th June to 27 July it actual only covered 24 June to 30th June ie up to the change in the price cap. Raised it with Octopus as normally when the rate price changes I get one bill with pre and post rate change breakdowns on it. Very convoluted email back this morning with a new 1st July to 25th July bill on the new tariff rates. No reason given why I didn’t get a single billing with two price sections like I normally do when the kW rates change - I suspect that it was “a computer error” . Anyway the correct two debits have now been taken. Solar generation here-in July hasn’t been as good as last year so it hasn’t contributed as much as it did last year or in June
You're not alone , I've had billing issues too but one email and they solve it quickly . Computers aren't perfect
PS: Why do we need a 12v battery, when we have a huge 400v battery 😂😂
All the electronics use 12v, it cost too much to reengineer all components and switches etc to different voltage . Why it can't be a more modern lighter lithium Im confused at
Nissan seem to get this very right in our Leaf, I use leaf spy to see what the voltage is and it is always on 14v when the car is turned on, it never reduces to the 12v you see when the car is off. I changed the 12v in our 2018 Leaf a couple of months ago after Cleevely mobile had tested it and seen it was at 65%, no different to any ICE car, just remove and replace, nothing changed except the default tyre pressure changed to kPa.
Oh, and the garage told me I had to have their standard 12v new battery.. no options. Grrrr grrrrrrrr!
Dealer inaccuracies and failures are rife
It's really sad but you just can't trust most of them these days , especially with EVs
Was it replaced under warranty? No? Who pays the piper calls the tune.
My leaf 12v lead acid also failed out of nowhere... totally unnecessary, could be super caps these days.
Very helpful video as I have a Kia Soul 2021 (a few months younger than yours).
Mr EV had problems with his 12V battery in his Kia Niro a few years ago, he bought a device that monitors the 12V continuously. (I've just watched his recent video which hints at problems to be revealed in his next video). I will monitor my battery and change before it becomes an issue (I hope). Mr EV: ruclips.net/video/sp_X0FN4J3M/видео.html
Don’t pay for fitting, took 10 minutes.
I paid for something I didn't want to do myself
That’s great if you have the ability to adapt BMS but most don’t.
@@daletur5328 just disconnect old battery, reconnect new one. Nothing to it - no BMS issue at all - we are talking 12v here - BMS not involved