Cheap SKR boards + raspberry pi + klipper is what has replaced my Duet boards (which replaced my smoothie boards, which replaced my RAMPS). For a while I even ran the Duet web interface (DWC) with klipper but have since moved to Fluidd for easier installation/maintenance. I can understand that it's not for everyone, but I've found it to work pretty well, and it saves a decent amount of money over the very nice but very expensive Duet boards.
seems really cool, there are duet clone that allows to have a reprap firmware with low-costs. Do you use a klipper feature that you won't find on reprap ?
@@jeffwitz8556 It's not so much about features as being able to use the same firmware on just about any board. I was able to add klipper to my Ender 3s and have a nicely integrated network-accessible web interface (Fluidd) that I much prefer to Octoprint (which is good in its own way)
Heh, print a mobile-phone holder for the front of the machine so that you can pretend it still has a screen built-in when you're tweaking the settings...
My Prusa Clone Marlin board died and the replacement was DOA. I went with Duet Wi-Fi and it was the best move I ever made. There is a learning curve but the output quality and control is amazing. Great video.
Hey great video man! If you are thinking about needing a screen interface aside from using your phone, I recommend looking into getting an old android tablet and printing a front mount where the old LCD use to be. My old android tablet even had wireless charging, so I hooked up a cheap wireless charger to the 5v line and now it charges while docked on the printer.
I am currently converting a XYZ Da Vinci Mini with a Duet2 board and found your video very informative. Keep up the good work and thank you for a great channel!👍 Gert South Africa
if you're in the EU you have 14 days return period without giving any reason. depending on the item you are even allowed to test it, and return it without reason.
I find that no probe apart from inductive probes work reliably on duet boards. Bltouch support in particular is ratshit and inconsistent, randomly triggering and not. The boards are also incredibly expensive. Not worth it.
@@alejandroperez5368 Two generations of original bltouch and one 3d touch was tested. Seems like the firmware does not actually check for status changes at all, and just rips on with it regardless of if the probe triggering status changes. It doesn't reset properly after a reset either, had to pull the power from both usb and external for some really shitty reason. I have no clue why and at the end I just gave up. The firmware is *interesting*, but not *good*. Oh, and of course, the damn thing uses connectors *all* motherboards don't use, so starting to use the board is a crimping bonanza and switching back from it as well. The whole thing reeks of newly graduated students. An interesting mix in terms of hardware, some interesting thoughts when it comes to firmware, but no consistency and not following any industry standards even when it comes to really basic things.
Comprehensive and very helpful. I still use my good old trusty Mk2, just recently reprinted all parts with high quality PETG, fitted new bearings and 2208 drivers on the good old Mega/Ramps combo, just went for ramps 1.6. This thing has never let me down..
Great Video as always Im jumping to the klipper FW soon Very mutch inspired of the Voron way of duing things Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us :-) 👍
Hey I just wanted to let you know I bought a prusa mk2s that was abused and came with no motherboard and almost all of the printed parts broken. I followed your guide here and put a duet board in it and revived the dead printer and I am shocked at how well it prints. Thank you for posting this guide. It saved me a lot of time getting it running and is now my best printer.
I used a Duet 2 Wifi for my Voron 2.4, genius combination. Was also overwhelmed by all the settings at first but now I think that this system is just the best there is and am really happy with it. The automatic bed leveling with the 4 Z motors of the Voron 2.4 is just soo satisfying :) I'm using either my PC or a cheap Fire HD 8 for interfacing the printer and I don't miss the actual buttons :)
The only thing i mod about my printer {Anet A9} are structural mods, smoothers and a better mosfet. Upgrading the board itself is quite useless as it would cost more than the printer itself costed me. {aliexpress brand sale: for about 70$ before coupons i got the printer} Which is a steal if you see what the Anet A9 can do
@@darknessblades in my opinion, changing out a board is worth for a "workhorse" machine... That one/two machines that you want to give gcode to and walk away knowing the print it's going to be perfect. It's expensive, but worth the reliability in my opinion.
Great video! Thanks! 👍😊 You forgot to mention though that ANY old phone or tablet (that you already have in a drawer) becomes the perfect touch display for the Duet.
Stephan, you ask which control board we prefer. And say you will be tring next some flybpard duet clone. The thing is that while flyboaards give more memory / storage space for installing RRF... Actually the better quality of chinese brand is fysetc now these days. Their brand new fysetc spider with x8 drivers 2209 is based heavily on the proven s6. This is a product designed specifically for klipper. it has been thoroughly tested before release and is best new board available for this purpose (as of april 2021)
You are talking about a board which has not yet shipped and hasn’t been tested widely yet for potential bugs in multiple installations. It will likely be a good board, but don’t label it as the best one yet until it is actually sold.
@@christophmuller3511 normally i would agree with you. and very much so in the light of questionable new boards being released by companies such as BTT. however in this particular instance the manufacturer has been very conservative with the changes (from previous s6 model), and i also have seen enough behind the scenes to trust the level of pre-release testing here. specifically being in fact a lot more than anybody else's typical level. aside from perhaps duet too. yes it's not possible to rule out the possibility of unknown bug or other = yes. and i acknowledge that point. however even with also accounting for that occurring it's still overall the best board out there IMHO by a wide enough margin. and i say that also including the higher level of after sales support and care is higher than any of the competitors (which most directly are the flyboard or the BTT GTR, but more generally all the other options also). again all aspects types of support being considered, including things like the way they do their documentation, provide klipper profiles etc.. this is with also considering what people recognize positively as duet level of quality. (although depending by other's views / comments duet's own after sales support may vary by experience).... TLDR i'm not actually here to tell anybody they must buy this product instead over something else. but mostly to be at least be aware that it exists. and be aware of it's true quality etc. being higher than you might initially believe. rather than mistake it for something else of a lesser quality such as offerings from other chinese brand. just to give it a fair and reasonable examination and not end up regret missing this option in ignorance of it, over something else that is in fact inferior in one way or another. so i say again: while your general point is acknowledged, it's just not really something that stands up to the higher level scrutiny which i have applied in this case, and you really don't have to trust me on that! pretty confident that time will tell, for being that the assessment here it's not going to change significantly or in any meaningful way
I can really advice people to check out the RRF port indeed. I got it working on an SKR 1.4T with an ESP8266 for wireless connectivity. It's cheap and works great.
Duet/RRF is really cool but also expensive. Regarding the screen, yes I really miss it. I'll probably need to get one. Please more DIY/modding videos! They are awesome! Thanks and have a good one
Duet 2 Wifi and 5 inch panel due is what I use fro my main own custom printer for almost 3 years now. The user interface is more a matter of habit. I got used to preparing print jobs at my PC and the web interface, but use the touchscreen for macros (preheating, change z probe offset depending on the side of the flex plate I use etc). RepRapFirmware is very good and by the time I have my Voron 2.4 build RRF 3.4 with input shaping might be released. So great to see that there is active development and it might also be a good follow up video for you, to test input shaping on the MK2 and maybe later get a Bear upgrade 2.1 frame for it and test input shaping with a better frame.
Stefan, welcome to the wonderful world of Duet! Once I got my railcore, I converted all my other printers to Duet (other than my MK3 since it just works so well) Honestly, the screens aren't great, especially for the price, the touch sensitivity is bad. I'll press a button and something else gets pressed probably 10% of the time. Still, it is nice having a screen, fysetc makes a knockoff version that still isn't too cheap, but it'll save you some money. Mellow makes one as well, but I didn't like the interface on that one since it uses their interface rather than the normal duet one.
I tried RRF on my SKR v1.3 with an ESP32 plugged into EXT1 and EXT2 connectors for WiFi connectivity, on an Alfawise U20 modded to have a Prusa i3 MK3 X and Z axis and X carriage. I never got sensorless homing to work reliably, I couldn’t figure out how to adjust the Z midpoint for the bed level map, so it was always in the blue to green region. I flashed back Marlin after two weeks and I’m happy. On the other hand, I ran an MKS Gen L board with TMC2208 drivers in standalone mode on a Prusa MK2 clone. There is a port of Prusa firmware 3.9.0 to RAMPS and compatible boards (like the mentioned MKS Gen L), so I was up and running in a few hours. It was even more quiet than my MK3S :D
Welcome to the land of Duet-based printers. The LCD question is a frequently asked one. I tend to favor having a physical control panel at each of my printers. This allows me to continue controlling my printer when my network goes down, I've left my phone in another room, etc. As well, it's nice being able to glance at the printer and see the current status of things (such as estimated time remaining, temperatures, etc) without needing to use another device. I really can't comment on having a preference between Marlin or RRF. I did have a Marlin based printer once for about 2 weeks before swapping it for a flashforge creator pro. As you may know, the FFCP doesn't actually use "gcode" commands, but instead uses pre-parsed "x3g" instructions. Ever since converting that printer to a Duet Ethernet about 4 years ago, I haven't even considered a non-Duet based printer.
My main printer is Marlin, but I had a second that was Klipper, I'm planning to rebuild it soon with an extrusion frame as it used to use an acrylic Anet A8 Frame 😅 Klipper had some really good movement capabilities, and I got very good printing quality using the old RAMPs + Mega combo!
Just get the fysetc Mini 12864 for around 15€ delivered from AliExpress - plugs into the board directly and allows for all the necessary controls on the printer. I use it regularly to preheat, live baby step, cancel prints if something goes wrong. Also the perfect size for fitting in front of the Prusa.
@@vakurmalumattar you need to modify the display scripts - the pages are fully customizable and allow add whatever information you are interested in. You should be able to find some decent premade templates on the duet forum.
I've been using a duet board on my machines for a few years. Bought the large touchscreen because I thought it would be useful and look great. I can ho early say I've barely EVER used it. It's handy to be able to look at the machine for the status, but not that handy.
I've been using RRF on my btt skr 1.4 turbo board with the wifi addon board and loving it. Will probably move my Corexy hypercube based printer to rrf as well if the firmware port supports the btt gtr pro v1. I love the web interface for duet, so much easier to use the printer than marlin.
IMO RRF kicks asses to all of the alternatives combined. Price/performance, ease of use, superb support, connectivity and relibility, just bizzare control of your build.. there is no match. Whoever says differently, just hasn’t used RRF (on Duet) yet. I usually have screen temporarily connected as a gadget for machines i tweak and mod (Exclusively IDEX and Quad..), otherwise, when doing remote printing or just ordinary use, the screen is not used or needed by me at all. As Stefan mentioned, it is intimidating at first, but the learning curve is very, very steep and great documentation helps with that fact. And since alternative boards got supported, i think this is the beginning of a great transition towards RRF in general. I am running a group, dedicated to RRF driven multihead machines that stemmed from upgrading my Tenlog D3 IDEX. I help people upgrade their machines and tutor (when needed) total noobs in this process. And while some never even heard of RRF or Duet, they all manage to do it. Not a single disappointed user for now. That tells a lot of RRF. You can check out what RRF can do or ask more at my fb “MarX group” (search FB groups or just follow the link) facebook.com/groups/237163797566846/
I put a Duet 3 6HC in an external case together with 3 power supplies and plan to use that for all self built machines in my workshop (a 3D Printer, a CNC and maybe someday a lasercutter) by simply connecting the wires to the external case via connectors and selecting the profile. I'll see how that goes when the machines are ready haha
Duet3 Mini 5+ is great. It also has an expansion module for a further two stepper drivers. I'm using it on a hacked-up ender3 with gantry levelling and idex!
Once I went duet, I never looked back! Duet the world! A screen is still super handy for all your basic functions. They're also like 1/4 of that price on aliexpress.
Duet 3 mini also support display mini 12864. Just so you have some control by the printer if needed. Duet will also get inputshapper in 3.4 which is very close.
Be aware that you'll need to use a 3.3V compatible 12864 controller, such as the FYSETC Mini-12864 (and possibly the BTT Mini-12864?), otherwise you'll need a 5V-3.3V level converter as discussed in the Duet user forums.
So tempting - my first 3D printer was a QU-BD Two Up kit that had _all_ the problems, including (surprising) melted bed heater connector. A modern controller would do a long way to make it better.
I wonder if this board would be compatible with an old monoprice select mini v2... 🤔 It's been a surprisingly good little printer, and this could be a great excuse to move the electronics outside of an enclosure while also upgrading it.
I am not surprised the prusa board gets damaged. The box of board enshures overhead. Elektroniks need proper cooling, or they die early. Print a bigger Box for your new board, place a fan into it (big slow -> silent), add distance to the heatbed. Put Heat sinks on the Mikrokontroller and on stepper driverst. Otherwise the replacement board gets killed too. And put heatsinks to all stepper motors. Especially the extruder ;-) This really increased quality of prints on prusas.
IF you hade an old android phone or tablet you could use it as a screen, the duet web interface has room for a webcam and if you download a webcam app for the android device you can feed that into the web interface making it a multi use device. Just attach the device so that the camera sees the build plate and you have a way to see your print from remote. I use a old 7” tablet and it works great! Keep up the good work with your great videos!
I have a Duet Wifi board with Duet touch screen. I use the screen for stopping printer quickly when print fails (mostly because of bed adhesion), swap filament (heat up nozzle, extrude old color). Also really handy to select a print. When I use iPad to control Duet, and iPad goes to sleep, I have to reenter password. When fiddling around printer it gets to sleep too fast. Currently my printer is in a location where I can not see the screen, only the stop button, and I really miss the screen. Will have to relocate it, need longer cables to move it to front.
Hi Stefan, thanks for all great content you create. This video convinced me to go for Duet in stead of replacement of my current Lerdge X board. I replaced all steppers with TMC2209 but it's not working great. The lerdge is having trouble with Z and E and is not reliable even after tuning the Vref so a replacement for this is the next step. I get it tomorrow.
I experimented with a Lerdge board when they first showed up in the market. Had nothing but problems with it and ended up bricking it trying to update the firmware. Then I discovered the duet2wifi that had just been released and I was pleased with it. I converted all my other printers to it and have no regrets.
@@vhoward1122 i like the easy user interface of the lerdge board. But with ease of use comes restrictions as using octoprint for remote file upload. After setting up your printer on a Duet it is as simple as the lerdge. Working reliable with quiet drivers was my main reason to switch.
Better get an SKR board, Lot of people putting in SKR1.4 Turbo's in their prusa's because it has a TON of features. They also released an SKR2.0 recently it has RepRap support + wifi webinterface too. and you can still use your old screen... Even fot the SKR1.3 and 1.4 you can get a WIFI module. Duet's are just overpriced but cool and great CNC boards. but not so much for printers. If 1 stepper driver burns. you can throw away the complete board. with the SKR's well... you can easily replace them.
@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel BTT stopped selling SKR 1.4. Mine is broken and now I cant get a new one. I ordered a SKR PRO V 1.2 18 days ago but its still not shipped (BTT on AliExpress). Cant use my printer in this time :(
Really great ! It is very interesting to see the experience you get on Tool changer being used with prusa frame ! I think that reprap firmware is the best for development as there is no need of compilation and everything can be changed inline ! Happy to see the new duet3 mini, I have no insight on the how it works ! Can you drive several extruders with ?
Good luck with Support if you ever need it. You're basically at the whim of a Support Forum and anyone who decides to help (or doesn't). This was one of the worst experiences I've had to deal with - gave my Duet board away.
I don't know if you noticed or not but caribou only defines PIND v2 in their config, they don't really make use of it for probing compensation, I studied their whole algorithm. I couldn't find any sign of any G31 line that changes trigger height for temperature. their firmware works because they make you do first layer calibration for different material with macros. lol
Very cool. I want to upgrade the rambo in my makergear m2 as I've damaged some traces on the unavailable screen. The screen costs as much as a new motherboard/screen combo so I'm tempted to go this route. I have been using octoprint in the meantime but wouldn't hurt to have something quiet and integrated.
I didn't notice the MK52 bed you added until like the last few minutes of the video. Nice! So essentially a MK3(s?) with the old frame and no screen and probably better controller/firmware. I haven't decided whether a screen is a necessity in my workflow, but I do prefer it over accessing the printer from my phone. I like the fact that I can glance at the screen and know the status of the printer without firing up an app or web browser. I know resistive touchscreens are a huge pain to use, and capacitive touch is cool but prone to user error (my fat fingers) and costs more, so I prefer a simple LCD with a tactile interface like an encoder wheel. Web interface is nice, but it's another thing to secure on my network, and there's a lot of damage a hacker can do with access to heating elements. Granted, that risk is not very large compared to being a large datacenter with lots of patented information. The other reason I prefer an LCD is because we have enough companies releasing headless devices that are useless without a buggy app.
I also burned through all my bed heating power terminals; simply soldering the wires instead of using Prusa’s connectors has been holding up for a few hundred hours at least
I've used my maestro for 3 years now without a screen, as it just wasn't neccessary. The one thing I did though was to add a custom start and end G-Code that reconfigures one of the end stop switches into an emergency stop trigger. Just in case, you know.
I'm personally running a couple Duet Wifi boards, and getting ready to build my first CoreXY printer (a TwoTrees Sapphire Plus), with a Duet Wifi already sitting here to install in it. I'd barely touched Marlin on an earlier MKS board in the delta printer kit I bought, before getting annoyed with it and rebuilding it with the first Duet I bought, and have since used them on all my printers other than the little Monoprice Select Mini (I've even considered it getting swapped, but a ~$130 board in a printer that I bought for $100 is pushing the convenience issue a bit...)
Nice intro and music! Have you considered trying Klipper with your Voron? That would be a cool video (not that all your content isn't amazing). Cheers from Canada!
i have a custom printer made by myself using a DUET 3 6Hc and a 3HC expansion board on it and dont have a screen either , compare to marlin RRF is 1000x better since you can change setting like nothing make it really fast and easy to change things and test without having to use multiple software.
8:00 I'm not sure I would stick with that, yes nothing will move but things vibrate and could cause wonky contacts or loose connections. No idea how bad it will be but one might want to use the proper locking connectors or a dab of hot glue.
I bought a PanelDue clone from China and it works very well (I would love to buy the original but it’s too expensive for me) I hated the look of the UI so I implemented a nicer dark mode (now part of the official firmware)
3 года назад
Heh i just installed a duet 3 mini in my tronxy core xy. It was somewhat challenging but got it all working. Still could use a little more tuning.
Hi Stefan, your probe is not activated for temperature compensation. I found out the hard way there is about 1mm of difference when the probe is +50 degrees so the factor should be 0.02 in the G31 command. If you have firmware < 3.3 you should use a C before otherwise a T. My lines are now: M308 S2 P"temp2" A"Pinda" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; temperature of PINDA2 G31 P500 X0 Y-24 Z0.95 S21 H2 T0.02 ; T' (temperature coefficient of Z parameter in mm/°C, default zero in your case if you would like to make it working: G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z1.4 S21 H2 T0.02
For those JST style connectors, there is an iwiss crimping tool that works much nicer than the ratcheting ones. (Big Clive did a video reviewing these tools) It only crimps a single point at a time, so you use it twice for those connectors, but it's much easier and more precise. I've found the original ratchet tool is still better for the Dupont style connectors.
It's not quite as simple as "ratcheting tools are bad", unfortunately. There is a wide range of crimping tools, each designed for different connectors. Whether they have the ratcheting mechanism is largely unrelated. (In fact, the ratcheting mechanism can help ensure you apply enough force to get a good crimp - though you have to turn up the force dial quite a lot in my experience...) I have an iwiss SN-01BM ratcheting crimp tool that works very well for JST-SM and Molex KK-254 connectors (clones of the latter are often called "KF2510" - it's the connector style that Big Clive has long favoured, and I use the same clones, sold by Rapid Electronics, that he does). It also works decently for "DuPont" connectors. I think it will do JST-XH and maybe JST-PH as well, but I dislike both of those (very high retention force combined with a tiny connector housing that's impossible to grip 😒) so I use KK-254-style wherever possible. That SN-01BM tool was supplied with a set of JST-SM crimps from Amazon, and in this case I was lucky that _the kit contained the correct tool for the accompanying connectors_. You'd think that would be standard, but sadly it's not. I bought a kit of "DuPont"-style connectors that was supplied with a ratcheting crimp tool that _looked_ very similar to my SN-01BM, but it produced _terrible_ crimps in comparison; it was utterly unsuitable for the connectors it was shipped with 🙄 (I can't seem to find that tool right now, or I'd give its model number... It wasn't badly-made, it was just the wrong tool.) That mismatch of crimp tool to connectors is very common from what I've seen, and a lot of Amazon/AliExpress product listings for crimp tools don't correctly list the connectors the tool should be used with 😕 It's worth seeking a list of tool-vs-connector suitability, although I think it's really the die attached to the jaws of the tool that determines the compatibility, rather than the main tool itself...
For those that want to get the same crimping tool as "CNC kitchen" beware that this tool is a bit difficult to use. and you might burn trough a lot of connectors before you get a good crimp. But once you get the hang of it it will give good crimps for simple connectors that do not see a lot of stress
Could you please detail a little bit more how you used the Marlin generator to tune the pressure advance in Reprap? I remeber I had issues setting it up and gave up ☹️...
Buy a cheap tablet off amazon and use that as the touch screen. I think there are some el cheapo ones on Amazon that would work mint. The duet firmware really is intense how good it is. No stupid sd cards, no stupid lag, no stupid buffering. Just money. You also know for a fact if your commands work because it's built in debugging will tell you if your commands are junk, unlike marlin which will gladly kill itself
@@abhimaanmayadam5713 probably not hooked up directly. The touch screen is basically a small computer that runs the interface on it. It's only a three wire connection.
Crash detection: check Power Panic: possible, though might require an additional capacitor on the input rail with the existing PSU Babysteps: check Arcs (G2/G3): nothing easier than that Sanity check: probably not in the Prusa-way
i've been wanting to switch to Reprap as G code is just easier but I thought the only board that used it was duet. please go into the cheaper end of the Reprap boards as I'm defiantly wanting to convert.
You connect via pronterface , and set up your router's password and ssid and find out it will not connect to your router because pronterface converts your password to all uppercase and you spend the next 2 hours trying to workout what's happening !!!
You could also just eject the sd-card and change the config files with the passwords on any pc that has a cardreader ;D. However i kind of know your pain: After a change of my cable-internet-gateway my duet2wifi wouldn't connect to my network anymore, even though ssid and other wlan-settings were the same. It took me some time to figure out that the cheap-o wlan on my new router as well as the duet were simply incompatible with each other :( . I had to get around the problem by buying an additional wlan-access-point that my duet would connect to.
@@andreask87 My way around it when I worked out what was happening was change my password to the uppercase version , and make a macro : M552 S0 M588 S"*" M587 S"mysidd" P"mypassword" M552 S1
I am pretty sure, Stefan uses the very popular FRITZ!Box (in Germany) where the default password has only numbers, so the issue didn't occur for him ;-)
I find the Marlin firmware vs RepRap Firmware in context of RepRap project very confusing. RepRap project is any firmware but embraces Marlin and RepRap? What is history of two? Who came first, who are the different development groups?
Marlin or Reprap Firmware? What do you prefer?
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I personally use Marlin in combination with octoprint, but I never tried RepRap.
Klipper with Mainsail.
Reprap Firmware by far, not necessarily because of the firmware explicitly, but the duet+reprap firmware combination is just so easy to work with.
Klipper with fluidd
Waiting for the Klipper guys to spam this section :D I never got around to try it, but it seems to be cool.
Cheap SKR boards + raspberry pi + klipper is what has replaced my Duet boards (which replaced my smoothie boards, which replaced my RAMPS). For a while I even ran the Duet web interface (DWC) with klipper but have since moved to Fluidd for easier installation/maintenance. I can understand that it's not for everyone, but I've found it to work pretty well, and it saves a decent amount of money over the very nice but very expensive Duet boards.
lol kliper is only good on 8bit boards on 32 it's same
seems really cool, there are duet clone that allows to have a reprap firmware with low-costs. Do you use a klipper feature that you won't find on reprap ?
@@jeffwitz8556 input shaper?
@@MrCcfly nope lol, but it can make 8 bit boards better but some printers need 32bit and Klipper.
@@jeffwitz8556 It's not so much about features as being able to use the same firmware on just about any board. I was able to add klipper to my Ender 3s and have a nicely integrated network-accessible web interface (Fluidd) that I much prefer to Octoprint (which is good in its own way)
Thanks for the video! I'm very interesting in seeing a video about reprap vs klipper comparison.
Heh, print a mobile-phone holder for the front of the machine so that you can pretend it still has a screen built-in when you're tweaking the settings...
Or use old phone
My Prusa Clone Marlin board died and the replacement was DOA. I went with Duet Wi-Fi and it was the best move I ever made. There is a learning curve but the output quality and control is amazing. Great video.
Hey great video man! If you are thinking about needing a screen interface aside from using your phone, I recommend looking into getting an old android tablet and printing a front mount where the old LCD use to be. My old android tablet even had wireless charging, so I hooked up a cheap wireless charger to the 5v line and now it charges while docked on the printer.
I am currently converting a XYZ Da Vinci Mini with a Duet2 board and found your video very informative.
Keep up the good work and thank you for a great channel!👍
Gert
South Africa
excellent choice with the Duet! 👌😎 and nice video
Glad you liked it!
i have been using my phone as the interface for the printer (own a duet wifi) for almost 3 years and i absolutely love it.
I wish you posted this last week. Same thing happened to my mk2 and I bought the Rambo mini, I didn't know how easy it would be to upgrade it
Sorry 😅
if you're in the EU you have 14 days return period without giving any reason.
depending on the item you are even allowed to test it, and return it without reason.
"easy" is a relative term though..
Get Klipper
I'm never going back to trying Marlin after making some printers with Duet boards. It's so much easier to make changes on the fly.
I'm using Klipper for the same reason.
I'm running both and they're fantastic
I find that no probe apart from inductive probes work reliably on duet boards. Bltouch support in particular is ratshit and inconsistent, randomly triggering and not.
The boards are also incredibly expensive.
Not worth it.
@@TuxieBSOD Original Bltouch?
@@alejandroperez5368 Two generations of original bltouch and one 3d touch was tested.
Seems like the firmware does not actually check for status changes at all, and just rips on with it regardless of if the probe triggering status changes. It doesn't reset properly after a reset either, had to pull the power from both usb and external for some really shitty reason. I have no clue why and at the end I just gave up.
The firmware is *interesting*, but not *good*.
Oh, and of course, the damn thing uses connectors *all* motherboards don't use, so starting to use the board is a crimping bonanza and switching back from it as well.
The whole thing reeks of newly graduated students. An interesting mix in terms of hardware, some interesting thoughts when it comes to firmware, but no consistency and not following any industry standards even when it comes to really basic things.
from your past video, I get notice Voron, I never see them before, so thanks to you, my next printer will be Voron 2.4 with klipper.
Comprehensive and very helpful. I still use my good old trusty Mk2, just recently reprinted all parts with high quality PETG, fitted new bearings and 2208 drivers on the good old Mega/Ramps combo, just went for ramps 1.6. This thing has never let me down..
Great Video as always
Im jumping to the klipper FW soon
Very mutch inspired of the Voron way of duing things
Thanks for sharing your experience with all of us :-) 👍
There is also a share of Voron’s running on RRF
Hey I just wanted to let you know I bought a prusa mk2s that was abused and came with no motherboard and almost all of the printed parts broken. I followed your guide here and put a duet board in it and revived the dead printer and I am shocked at how well it prints.
Thank you for posting this guide. It saved me a lot of time getting it running and is now my best printer.
I'm also doing a project with a duet board and I'm really impressed by the quality and the simplicity. Happy to see a video about 💪
The Duet is very impressive - I use it for CNC router control. It's also a great entry into understanding gcode and these tools work.
I used a Duet 2 Wifi for my Voron 2.4, genius combination. Was also overwhelmed by all the settings at first but now I think that this system is just the best there is and am really happy with it. The automatic bed leveling with the 4 Z motors of the Voron 2.4 is just soo satisfying :)
I'm using either my PC or a cheap Fire HD 8 for interfacing the printer and I don't miss the actual buttons :)
its nice to see old printers revived and improved
Totally. Really considered throwing it away but that would have been a pity.
The only thing i mod about my printer {Anet A9} are structural mods, smoothers and a better mosfet.
Upgrading the board itself is quite useless as it would cost more than the printer itself costed me.
{aliexpress brand sale: for about 70$ before coupons i got the printer} Which is a steal if you see what the Anet A9 can do
@@darknessblades in my opinion, changing out a board is worth for a "workhorse" machine...
That one/two machines that you want to give gcode to and walk away knowing the print it's going to be perfect. It's expensive, but worth the reliability in my opinion.
I have used Marlin, but I finally settled on Klipper.
Great video! Thanks! 👍😊
You forgot to mention though that ANY old phone or tablet (that you already have in a drawer) becomes the perfect touch display for the Duet.
Stephan, you ask which control board we prefer. And say you will be tring next some flybpard duet clone. The thing is that while flyboaards give more memory / storage space for installing RRF... Actually the better quality of chinese brand is fysetc now these days. Their brand new fysetc spider with x8 drivers 2209 is based heavily on the proven s6. This is a product designed specifically for klipper. it has been thoroughly tested before release and is best new board available for this purpose (as of april 2021)
You are talking about a board which has not yet shipped and hasn’t been tested widely yet for potential bugs in multiple installations. It will likely be a good board, but don’t label it as the best one yet until it is actually sold.
@@christophmuller3511 normally i would agree with you. and very much so in the light of questionable new boards being released by companies such as BTT. however in this particular instance the manufacturer has been very conservative with the changes (from previous s6 model), and i also have seen enough behind the scenes to trust the level of pre-release testing here. specifically being in fact a lot more than anybody else's typical level. aside from perhaps duet too. yes it's not possible to rule out the possibility of unknown bug or other = yes. and i acknowledge that point. however even with also accounting for that occurring it's still overall the best board out there IMHO by a wide enough margin. and i say that also including the higher level of after sales support and care is higher than any of the competitors (which most directly are the flyboard or the BTT GTR, but more generally all the other options also). again all aspects types of support being considered, including things like the way they do their documentation, provide klipper profiles etc.. this is with also considering what people recognize positively as duet level of quality. (although depending by other's views / comments duet's own after sales support may vary by experience)....
TLDR i'm not actually here to tell anybody they must buy this product instead over something else. but mostly to be at least be aware that it exists. and be aware of it's true quality etc. being higher than you might initially believe. rather than mistake it for something else of a lesser quality such as offerings from other chinese brand. just to give it a fair and reasonable examination and not end up regret missing this option in ignorance of it, over something else that is in fact inferior in one way or another.
so i say again: while your general point is acknowledged, it's just not really something that stands up to the higher level scrutiny which i have applied in this case, and you really don't have to trust me on that! pretty confident that time will tell, for being that the assessment here it's not going to change significantly or in any meaningful way
I can really advice people to check out the RRF port indeed. I got it working on an SKR 1.4T with an ESP8266 for wireless connectivity. It's cheap and works great.
Duet/RRF is really cool but also expensive. Regarding the screen, yes I really miss it. I'll probably need to get one.
Please more DIY/modding videos! They are awesome! Thanks and have a good one
Nice. Would love to hear more about Klipper and the Voron project on the next video.
Duet 2 Wifi and 5 inch panel due is what I use fro my main own custom printer for almost 3 years now. The user interface is more a matter of habit. I got used to preparing print jobs at my PC and the web interface, but use the touchscreen for macros (preheating, change z probe offset depending on the side of the flex plate I use etc). RepRapFirmware is very good and by the time I have my Voron 2.4 build RRF 3.4 with input shaping might be released. So great to see that there is active development and it might also be a good follow up video for you, to test input shaping on the MK2 and maybe later get a Bear upgrade 2.1 frame for it and test input shaping with a better frame.
I'm researching the Duet board as a replacement / upgrade from some proprietary 3d printers I was given; I think it will work well!
Klipper seems to be more sane, but maybe I'm just used to it at this point.
Looking forward your Mellow Fly RRF video.
I ordered one for my Ender 3 Max and looking forward for Stefans Mellow Fly RRF too.
+1 I found all Mellow Stuff high quality ...bought a Fly RRF already just on that finding (and because of a broken delta sitting here ;-)
Got an old MK2 kicking around. Hasn't had any issues yet, but I've got options if I blow it up or feel like ripping it apart, neat.
I was really hoping to see Klipper on this machine, you can easily achieve 100+ mm/s on mk2 kinematics with input shaping.
RRF will soon support input shaping!
Stefan, welcome to the wonderful world of Duet! Once I got my railcore, I converted all my other printers to Duet (other than my MK3 since it just works so well) Honestly, the screens aren't great, especially for the price, the touch sensitivity is bad. I'll press a button and something else gets pressed probably 10% of the time. Still, it is nice having a screen, fysetc makes a knockoff version that still isn't too cheap, but it'll save you some money. Mellow makes one as well, but I didn't like the interface on that one since it uses their interface rather than the normal duet one.
I tried RRF on my SKR v1.3 with an ESP32 plugged into EXT1 and EXT2 connectors for WiFi connectivity, on an Alfawise U20 modded to have a Prusa i3 MK3 X and Z axis and X carriage. I never got sensorless homing to work reliably, I couldn’t figure out how to adjust the Z midpoint for the bed level map, so it was always in the blue to green region.
I flashed back Marlin after two weeks and I’m happy.
On the other hand, I ran an MKS Gen L board with TMC2208 drivers in standalone mode on a Prusa MK2 clone. There is a port of Prusa firmware 3.9.0 to RAMPS and compatible boards (like the mentioned MKS Gen L), so I was up and running in a few hours. It was even more quiet than my MK3S :D
Here I am using my MK2 to print parts for its replacement Voron 2.4. Been a great printer with minimal issues for the past few years.
Welcome to the land of Duet-based printers. The LCD question is a frequently asked one. I tend to favor having a physical control panel at each of my printers. This allows me to continue controlling my printer when my network goes down, I've left my phone in another room, etc. As well, it's nice being able to glance at the printer and see the current status of things (such as estimated time remaining, temperatures, etc) without needing to use another device.
I really can't comment on having a preference between Marlin or RRF. I did have a Marlin based printer once for about 2 weeks before swapping it for a flashforge creator pro. As you may know, the FFCP doesn't actually use "gcode" commands, but instead uses pre-parsed "x3g" instructions. Ever since converting that printer to a Duet Ethernet about 4 years ago, I haven't even considered a non-Duet based printer.
My main printer is Marlin, but I had a second that was Klipper, I'm planning to rebuild it soon with an extrusion frame as it used to use an acrylic Anet A8 Frame 😅 Klipper had some really good movement capabilities, and I got very good printing quality using the old RAMPs + Mega combo!
Just get the fysetc Mini 12864 for around 15€ delivered from AliExpress - plugs into the board directly and allows for all the necessary controls on the printer. I use it regularly to preheat, live baby step, cancel prints if something goes wrong. Also the perfect size for fitting in front of the Prusa.
Sounds like a perfect plan.
Hi Christoph, i am using duet3mini with 12864 too, where do you see the ip address when using 12864 lcd?
@@vakurmalumattar you need to modify the display scripts - the pages are fully customizable and allow add whatever information you are interested in. You should be able to find some decent premade templates on the duet forum.
I've been using a duet board on my machines for a few years. Bought the large touchscreen because I thought it would be useful and look great. I can ho early say I've barely EVER used it. It's handy to be able to look at the machine for the status, but not that handy.
I've been using RRF on my btt skr 1.4 turbo board with the wifi addon board and loving it. Will probably move my Corexy hypercube based printer to rrf as well if the firmware port supports the btt gtr pro v1.
I love the web interface for duet, so much easier to use the printer than marlin.
IMO RRF kicks asses to all of the alternatives combined. Price/performance, ease of use, superb support, connectivity and relibility, just bizzare control of your build.. there is no match.
Whoever says differently, just hasn’t used RRF (on Duet) yet.
I usually have screen temporarily connected as a gadget for machines i tweak and mod (Exclusively IDEX and Quad..), otherwise, when doing remote printing or just ordinary use, the screen is not used or needed by me at all.
As Stefan mentioned, it is intimidating at first, but the learning curve is very, very steep and great documentation helps with that fact. And since alternative boards got supported, i think this is the beginning of a great transition towards RRF in general.
I am running a group, dedicated to RRF driven multihead machines that stemmed from upgrading my Tenlog D3 IDEX.
I help people upgrade their machines and tutor (when needed) total noobs in this process. And while some never even heard of RRF or Duet, they all manage to do it. Not a single disappointed user for now. That tells a lot of RRF.
You can check out what RRF can do or ask more at my fb “MarX group” (search FB groups or just follow the link)
facebook.com/groups/237163797566846/
I put a Duet 3 6HC in an external case together with 3 power supplies and plan to use that for all self built machines in my workshop (a 3D Printer, a CNC and maybe someday a lasercutter) by simply connecting the wires to the external case via connectors and selecting the profile.
I'll see how that goes when the machines are ready haha
Duet3 Mini 5+ is great. It also has an expansion module for a further two stepper drivers. I'm using it on a hacked-up ender3 with gantry levelling and idex!
Once I went duet, I never looked back! Duet the world! A screen is still super handy for all your basic functions. They're also like 1/4 of that price on aliexpress.
Duet 3 mini also support display mini 12864. Just so you have some control by the printer if needed. Duet will also get inputshapper in 3.4 which is very close.
Be aware that you'll need to use a 3.3V compatible 12864 controller, such as the FYSETC Mini-12864 (and possibly the BTT Mini-12864?), otherwise you'll need a 5V-3.3V level converter as discussed in the Duet user forums.
So tempting - my first 3D printer was a QU-BD Two Up kit that had _all_ the problems, including (surprising) melted bed heater connector. A modern controller would do a long way to make it better.
I wonder if this board would be compatible with an old monoprice select mini v2... 🤔
It's been a surprisingly good little printer, and this could be a great excuse to move the electronics outside of an enclosure while also upgrading it.
anything that can run Klipper is my board of choice
I am not surprised the prusa board gets damaged. The box of board enshures overhead.
Elektroniks need proper cooling, or they die early.
Print a bigger Box for your new board, place a fan into it (big slow -> silent), add distance to the heatbed. Put Heat sinks on the Mikrokontroller and on stepper driverst.
Otherwise the replacement board gets killed too.
And put heatsinks to all stepper motors. Especially the extruder ;-) This really increased quality of prints on prusas.
Waiting for my MK3S+ to arrive. Now I know what to do if it ever lets the magic smoke out!
IF you hade an old android phone or tablet you could use it as a screen, the duet web interface has room for a webcam and if you download a webcam app for the android device you can feed that into the web interface making it a multi use device.
Just attach the device so that the camera sees the build plate and you have a way to see your print from remote.
I use a old 7” tablet and it works great!
Keep up the good work with your great videos!
I have a Duet Wifi board with Duet touch screen. I use the screen for stopping printer quickly when print fails (mostly because of bed adhesion), swap filament (heat up nozzle, extrude old color). Also really handy to select a print. When I use iPad to control Duet, and iPad goes to sleep, I have to reenter password. When fiddling around printer it gets to sleep too fast. Currently my printer is in a location where I can not see the screen, only the stop button, and I really miss the screen. Will have to relocate it, need longer cables to move it to front.
I have just replaced the Rambo on one MK2.5S after 3 years of use. You have given me a great alternative if this one goes down again.
Hi Stefan, thanks for all great content you create. This video convinced me to go for Duet in stead of replacement of my current Lerdge X board. I replaced all steppers with TMC2209 but it's not working great. The lerdge is having trouble with Z and E and is not reliable even after tuning the Vref so a replacement for this is the next step. I get it tomorrow.
I experimented with a Lerdge board when they first showed up in the market. Had nothing but problems with it and ended up bricking it trying to update the firmware. Then I discovered the duet2wifi that had just been released and I was pleased with it. I converted all my other printers to it and have no regrets.
@@vhoward1122 i like the easy user interface of the lerdge board. But with ease of use comes restrictions as using octoprint for remote file upload. After setting up your printer on a Duet it is as simple as the lerdge. Working reliable with quiet drivers was my main reason to switch.
As a Prusa owner, I find this very interesting. Thanks.
Better get an SKR board, Lot of people putting in SKR1.4 Turbo's in their prusa's because it has a TON of features. They also released an SKR2.0 recently it has RepRap support + wifi webinterface too. and you can still use your old screen... Even fot the SKR1.3 and 1.4 you can get a WIFI module. Duet's are just overpriced but cool and great CNC boards. but not so much for printers. If 1 stepper driver burns. you can throw away the complete board. with the SKR's well... you can easily replace them.
@@Underp4ntz_Gaming_Channel BTT stopped selling SKR 1.4. Mine is broken and now I cant get a new one. I ordered a SKR PRO V 1.2 18 days ago but its still not shipped (BTT on AliExpress). Cant use my printer in this time :(
Really great ! It is very interesting to see the experience you get on Tool changer being used with prusa frame !
I think that reprap firmware is the best for development as there is no need of compilation and everything can be changed inline !
Happy to see the new duet3 mini, I have no insight on the how it works !
Can you drive several extruders with ?
Yes, not a problem. Basically two extruders with the standard setup and if you add an extension board even more.
Please do a video on the PWM frequency issue you had with the Hotend
been without a screen on my ender 3 for some time now, because I installed klipper and mainsail. Rarely used the screen anyway, and dont miss it.
Thanks for sharing your enclosure and configuration files. I do prefer reprap firmware for the ease of making changes to it.
Good luck with Support if you ever need it. You're basically at the whim of a Support Forum and anyone who decides to help (or doesn't). This was one of the worst experiences I've had to deal with - gave my Duet board away.
Nice hint of the VORON build at the end there ;)
I don't know if you noticed or not but caribou only defines PIND v2 in their config, they don't really make use of it for probing compensation, I studied their whole algorithm. I couldn't find any sign of any G31 line that changes trigger height for temperature. their firmware works because they make you do first layer calibration for different material with macros. lol
I feel like if you have an old phone laying around that might be a good option ... No additional cost, and a high quality touchscreen
Very cool. I want to upgrade the rambo in my makergear m2 as I've damaged some traces on the unavailable screen. The screen costs as much as a new motherboard/screen combo so I'm tempted to go this route. I have been using octoprint in the meantime but wouldn't hurt to have something quiet and integrated.
I didn't notice the MK52 bed you added until like the last few minutes of the video. Nice! So essentially a MK3(s?) with the old frame and no screen and probably better controller/firmware.
I haven't decided whether a screen is a necessity in my workflow, but I do prefer it over accessing the printer from my phone. I like the fact that I can glance at the screen and know the status of the printer without firing up an app or web browser. I know resistive touchscreens are a huge pain to use, and capacitive touch is cool but prone to user error (my fat fingers) and costs more, so I prefer a simple LCD with a tactile interface like an encoder wheel. Web interface is nice, but it's another thing to secure on my network, and there's a lot of damage a hacker can do with access to heating elements. Granted, that risk is not very large compared to being a large datacenter with lots of patented information.
The other reason I prefer an LCD is because we have enough companies releasing headless devices that are useless without a buggy app.
I love RRF
My Duet 2 wifi is a very solid board
You tube needs more RRF videos
I also burned through all my bed heating power terminals; simply soldering the wires instead of using Prusa’s connectors has been holding up for a few hundred hours at least
Nice. Going to get one of these boards for my Ender 5 Plus after I convert it to CoreXY
I've used my maestro for 3 years now without a screen, as it just wasn't neccessary. The one thing I did though was to add a custom start and end G-Code that reconfigures one of the end stop switches into an emergency stop trigger. Just in case, you know.
I recently put a lerdge x board on my ender 3 and I love it. I don't have any other experience with other boards to base it off of though
I love my Duets, and due to the fact they are wireless, I always use cheap tablets for the screens...
I'm personally running a couple Duet Wifi boards, and getting ready to build my first CoreXY printer (a TwoTrees Sapphire Plus), with a Duet Wifi already sitting here to install in it.
I'd barely touched Marlin on an earlier MKS board in the delta printer kit I bought, before getting annoyed with it and rebuilding it with the first Duet I bought, and have since used them on all my printers other than the little Monoprice Select Mini (I've even considered it getting swapped, but a ~$130 board in a printer that I bought for $100 is pushing the convenience issue a bit...)
Damn, now I'll think about the switch / upgrade for my Artillery Genius, the web connectivity is already a reason to buy :D
I have a clone duet 2 on my Pro 3G V-King but am considering getting this one and using the clone board for a CNC milling machine project.
I've been waiting for this exact video......super stoked
Hope you enjoyed it!
I think it looks just fine without a screen
Nice intro and music! Have you considered trying Klipper with your Voron? That would be a cool video (not that all your content isn't amazing). Cheers from Canada!
I use Klipper on my Voron!
i have a custom printer made by myself using a DUET 3 6Hc and a 3HC expansion board on it and dont have a screen either , compare to marlin RRF is 1000x better since you can change setting like nothing make it really fast and easy to change things and test without having to use multiple software.
I use Bigtreetech MKS Boards with RepRap Firmware - works pretty well too....
8:00 I'm not sure I would stick with that, yes nothing will move but things vibrate and could cause wonky contacts or loose connections.
No idea how bad it will be but one might want to use the proper locking connectors or a dab of hot glue.
I’ve never even thought about switching firmwares before since I didn’t think it made much difference feature wise. Now I’m curious.
Thank you for the detailed explanation and the inspiration to do my own upgrades!!
Glad to help!
try out klipper on the mini, truly best of all worlds
I bought a PanelDue clone from China and it works very well (I would love to buy the original but it’s too expensive for me)
I hated the look of the UI so I implemented a nicer dark mode (now part of the official firmware)
Heh i just installed a duet 3 mini in my tronxy core xy. It was somewhat challenging but got it all working. Still could use a little more tuning.
My brain got melted by that intro
Hi Stefan, your probe is not activated for temperature compensation. I found out the hard way there is about 1mm of difference when the probe is +50 degrees so the factor should be 0.02 in the G31 command. If you have firmware < 3.3 you should use a C before otherwise a T. My lines are now:
M308 S2 P"temp2" A"Pinda" Y"thermistor" T100000 B3950 ; temperature of PINDA2
G31 P500 X0 Y-24 Z0.95 S21 H2 T0.02 ; T' (temperature coefficient of Z parameter in mm/°C, default zero
in your case if you would like to make it working:
G31 P1000 X23 Y5 Z1.4 S21 H2 T0.02
I have a 3DP 1000 I am wanting to upgrade the controller , this looks like a good option.
For those JST style connectors, there is an iwiss crimping tool that works much nicer than the ratcheting ones. (Big Clive did a video reviewing these tools) It only crimps a single point at a time, so you use it twice for those connectors, but it's much easier and more precise. I've found the original ratchet tool is still better for the Dupont style connectors.
It's not quite as simple as "ratcheting tools are bad", unfortunately. There is a wide range of crimping tools, each designed for different connectors. Whether they have the ratcheting mechanism is largely unrelated. (In fact, the ratcheting mechanism can help ensure you apply enough force to get a good crimp - though you have to turn up the force dial quite a lot in my experience...)
I have an iwiss SN-01BM ratcheting crimp tool that works very well for JST-SM and Molex KK-254 connectors (clones of the latter are often called "KF2510" - it's the connector style that Big Clive has long favoured, and I use the same clones, sold by Rapid Electronics, that he does). It also works decently for "DuPont" connectors. I think it will do JST-XH and maybe JST-PH as well, but I dislike both of those (very high retention force combined with a tiny connector housing that's impossible to grip 😒) so I use KK-254-style wherever possible.
That SN-01BM tool was supplied with a set of JST-SM crimps from Amazon, and in this case I was lucky that _the kit contained the correct tool for the accompanying connectors_.
You'd think that would be standard, but sadly it's not. I bought a kit of "DuPont"-style connectors that was supplied with a ratcheting crimp tool that _looked_ very similar to my SN-01BM, but it produced _terrible_ crimps in comparison; it was utterly unsuitable for the connectors it was shipped with 🙄 (I can't seem to find that tool right now, or I'd give its model number... It wasn't badly-made, it was just the wrong tool.)
That mismatch of crimp tool to connectors is very common from what I've seen, and a lot of Amazon/AliExpress product listings for crimp tools don't correctly list the connectors the tool should be used with 😕
It's worth seeking a list of tool-vs-connector suitability, although I think it's really the die attached to the jaws of the tool that determines the compatibility, rather than the main tool itself...
For those that want to get the same crimping tool as "CNC kitchen" beware that this tool is a bit difficult to use. and you might burn trough a lot of connectors before you get a good crimp.
But once you get the hang of it it will give good crimps for simple connectors that do not see a lot of stress
Could you please detail a little bit more how you used the Marlin generator to tune the pressure advance in Reprap? I remeber I had issues setting it up and gave up ☹️...
Did you not use input shaping? Its really easy to configure and will improve ur prints and allow you to speed them up.
Buy a cheap tablet off amazon and use that as the touch screen. I think there are some el cheapo ones on Amazon that would work mint.
The duet firmware really is intense how good it is. No stupid sd cards, no stupid lag, no stupid buffering. Just money. You also know for a fact if your commands work because it's built in debugging will tell you if your commands are junk, unlike marlin which will gladly kill itself
Would a touch screen intended for a pi 3 work?
@@abhimaanmayadam5713 probably not hooked up directly. The touch screen is basically a small computer that runs the interface on it. It's only a three wire connection.
What about crash detection, power panic, live adjustment of the Z babysteps, arcs, sanity-checks of the nozzle diameter and firmware version, etc?
Crash detection: check
Power Panic: possible, though might require an additional capacitor on the input rail with the existing PSU
Babysteps: check
Arcs (G2/G3): nothing easier than that
Sanity check: probably not in the Prusa-way
i've been wanting to switch to Reprap as G code is just easier but I thought the only board that used it was duet. please go into the cheaper end of the Reprap boards as I'm defiantly wanting to convert.
you should print a dummy front panel that looks like the old one... I think that would be interesting
You connect via pronterface , and set up your router's password and ssid and find out it will not connect to your router because pronterface converts your password to all uppercase and you spend the next 2 hours trying to workout what's happening !!!
Duet recommends using the program YAT for sending gcode for initial setup
Very good to know. Worked for me, though.
You could also just eject the sd-card and change the config files with the passwords on any pc that has a cardreader ;D.
However i kind of know your pain: After a change of my cable-internet-gateway my duet2wifi wouldn't connect to my network anymore, even though ssid and other wlan-settings were the same. It took me some time to figure out that the cheap-o wlan on my new router as well as the duet were simply incompatible with each other :( . I had to get around the problem by buying an additional wlan-access-point that my duet would connect to.
@@andreask87 My way around it when I worked out what was happening was change my password to the uppercase version , and make a macro :
M552 S0
M588 S"*"
M587 S"mysidd" P"mypassword"
M552 S1
I am pretty sure, Stefan uses the very popular
FRITZ!Box (in Germany) where the default password has only numbers, so the issue didn't occur for him ;-)
I find the Marlin firmware vs RepRap Firmware in context of RepRap project very confusing. RepRap project is any firmware but embraces Marlin and RepRap? What is history of two? Who came first, who are the different development groups?
Me: Oh, wow, nice board. Also me: *proceeds to use RAMPS anyway, because it just works fine*
Well now I have more parts to add to my Mk2.5s Bear build.
How is that ATmega2560 board 94 Euros ? Im so glad marlin 32 bit is so polished these days allowing us to use these good ARM Cortex m3/m4 boards.