I followed the tips but just made my door worse, but tbh I probably needed a second pair of hands. Once you loosen those bolts attached to the lower front, the weight of the door makes the top pop out of its rail and then it became a nightmare juggling of holding the door up, hammering the plate to try and get it in the right spot, and tightening the bolts again. It started to rain so I got it closing again but it's alignment is way worse, I am confident that with some extra hands I'll be able to sort it out. Thanks for the vid! I know a lot more about my door now.
Was on the fence on making a video on this so it's nice to hear the positive feedback! Unfortunately the true fix is to replace all the worn rollers ($$$$) but at least re-aligning it will get it opening / closing / sealing again! Cheers! - Tim
Thanks for the great video explanation Tim. I just installed some Slick Lock plates to the door latches and will be using your explanation to re align the slider door. Mine has to be shifted forward to increase the clearance but that is something different. Why, you did such a good job explaining the slider I think you should go around the back and re align your rear doors. While you are filming it please make sure you show how to get the twist out of the right hand door which is out at the bottom. :) :) ;) Great video. You are good at this.
What causes the rear latch to stick, door pops open when pulling handle but I have to use my left hand on the rear of the door to pull door out and then she opens
@1:05 - the bottom rear roller has worn down enough that the center rear striker / latch are no longer aligned, so even after the latch is released from pulling the handle, the whole rear half of the door is resting on top of the striker pin instead of the roller mechanism. Because of this you have to pull the door outwards at the rear for it to drop down off of the striker pin.
Question about the front striker on the pillar : if I remove the striker bolts to change out the striker, will the inside plate stay there , or do I have to pull the interior trim and hold the plate?
Tim might want to try some lube on some of the contact points. His dry climate is not helping things. Excellent video on adjustments. A little patience and that door will operate perfectly. Thanks Tim!!
Van has lived most of it's life in California. No rust which is nice, but it takes it's toll on bearings and bushings! I did lubricate the tracks when I first bought it, but the rear center roller actually started sliding on the track without the wheel rolling! Made a bit of a flat spot in the wheel eventually, but in the end I know the real fix is to replace the worn mechanisms. Always something with these high mileage vans haha
Tim I have a 96 g30 chev & my slider door lock is like frozen closed I am afraid if I can't get some1 to help me with this it will come off during my daily driving Please help
Great video. You have any suggestions for a dysfunctional sliding outside door handle? Sliding door opens with inside handle but outside handle won't open the door. Striker plates appear to be aligned but still no action from outside handle.
Hey Jake, have you checked out Jasons video on exterior handle replacement? ruclips.net/video/ITFD8Ll4XFA/видео.html Could just be the rod clip on yours or it may need the whole exterior handle assembly replaced.
Some came with the option for dual sliding doors but only the 1500 models with the standard wheelbase, and only in passenger van form. I also believe only a certain year range were available as dual sliding door.
I followed the tips but just made my door worse, but tbh I probably needed a second pair of hands. Once you loosen those bolts attached to the lower front, the weight of the door makes the top pop out of its rail and then it became a nightmare juggling of holding the door up, hammering the plate to try and get it in the right spot, and tightening the bolts again. It started to rain so I got it closing again but it's alignment is way worse, I am confident that with some extra hands I'll be able to sort it out. Thanks for the vid! I know a lot more about my door now.
Excellent explanation of the Astro sliding door; no more worry headaches!
Had van door problems for 5 years, just kind of dealt with it. Thanks for the information and demonstration, will put it to good use.
Was on the fence on making a video on this so it's nice to hear the positive feedback!
Unfortunately the true fix is to replace all the worn rollers ($$$$) but at least re-aligning it will get it opening / closing / sealing again!
Cheers! - Tim
Thanks for the great video explanation Tim. I just installed some Slick Lock plates to the door latches and will be using your explanation to re align the slider door. Mine has to be shifted forward to increase the clearance but that is something different.
Why, you did such a good job explaining the slider I think you should go around the back and re align your rear doors. While you are filming it please make sure you show how to get the twist out of the right hand door which is out at the bottom. :) :) ;)
Great video. You are good at this.
Normally most mechanics would go to their handy dandy Alldata or Mitchell on-demand, but this here is cheaper. Thanks!!!
What causes the rear latch to stick, door pops open when pulling handle but I have to use my left hand on the rear of the door to pull door out and then she opens
@1:05 - the bottom rear roller has worn down enough that the center rear striker / latch are no longer aligned, so even after the latch is released from pulling the handle, the whole rear half of the door is resting on top of the striker pin instead of the roller mechanism. Because of this you have to pull the door outwards at the rear for it to drop down off of the striker pin.
I understand what adjustment draws in door tighter in the front, but what adjustment gets door more inward for the rear?
I tried adjusting the same thing that you did, and once I got the bolts loosened the door wouldn't go up high enough and it doesn't latch at all now
Thank You!
Question about the front striker on the pillar : if I remove the striker bolts to change out the striker, will the inside plate stay there , or do I have to pull the interior trim and hold the plate?
Tim might want to try some lube on some of the contact points. His dry climate is not helping things. Excellent video on adjustments. A little patience and that door will operate perfectly. Thanks Tim!!
Van has lived most of it's life in California. No rust which is nice, but it takes it's toll on bearings and bushings!
I did lubricate the tracks when I first bought it, but the rear center roller actually started sliding on the track without the wheel rolling!
Made a bit of a flat spot in the wheel eventually, but in the end I know the real fix is to replace the worn mechanisms.
Always something with these high mileage vans haha
Tim I have a 96 g30 chev & my slider door lock is like frozen closed I am afraid if I can't get some1 to help me with this it will come off during my daily driving
Please help
Thank you
by anychance . do you have a video of remove and install the lower roller of the sliding door of this van?
Sorry I don’t. I haven’t removed that roller mechanism.
Great video. You have any suggestions for a dysfunctional sliding outside door handle? Sliding door opens with inside handle but outside handle won't open the door. Striker plates appear to be aligned but still no action from outside handle.
Hey Jake, have you checked out Jasons video on exterior handle replacement? ruclips.net/video/ITFD8Ll4XFA/видео.html
Could just be the rod clip on yours or it may need the whole exterior handle assembly replaced.
Awesome
Hey, I'm not an expert on vehicles and stuff but I have a question does this model have sliding doors on both sides?.
Some came with the option for dual sliding doors but only the 1500 models with the standard wheelbase, and only in passenger van form. I also believe only a certain year range were available as dual sliding door.