Mine goes to 35 with a clean wave, but if I had a channel on the DSP and amp playing, I hear a clear change in tone from 27 to 28. When I run the signal through the DSP you see a clear dent in the wave at the 27 to 28 mark (dsp only halfway up) So its gotta be my deck.. unless the DSP just won't take the input. I'm only at like 2v tho. (DSP-408) should take up to 3.2v in UPDATE: Deck is completely clean. The Dayton Dsp won't take in more than 1.5v without freaking out
Sorry dude but I personally bought one brand new and I had this deck for mor than 3 years and it really sounds and works amazing. No regrets at all and I recommend this unit to anyone that is looking for reliability, excellent sound and awesome looks
You clearly don't understand what this video is about. At normal listening volumes it's okay but at 3/4 volume there's distortion and it doesn't output the rated power. Nothing you would experience just listening to it regularly hooked up to stock door speakers.
Are you happy with the sound quality (24bit dac)?I have from 2014 the alpine 9880r and the sound is CRAP.Upper mids and highs are totally Shrill/fatiguing and the bass is Weak/light.Tested with 2 sets of speakers (polk and focal). Before i had from 1998 a sony that was brilliant.Wondering if yours with 24bit dac is more sweet/mellow and less fatigue.Mine with good cds after 10 min. my ears hurt.Also mine has no parametric preset eq.(i don't know if that helps....).
Have you tested the app to make sure it's actually sending a 0db signal? And I couldn't exactly tell how you were hooked up but it looked like Bluetooth? Is it possible Bluetooth added distortion and lowered the signal output?
Any idea why these are going for over $300 right now? is it the 9 band PEQ ? I'm looking at the 175BT now for better bluetooth and 5v out. I can't get more than like 2 volts clean outta my 149BT (vol 27)
Iv'e been buying Alpine since 1983 I agree they are not what they use to be I have a 149BT with an all alpine-R hook up nobody is just listening to the radio I have 3 power amps and my car is jump'in like a disco crystal clean I bang at vol on 30 all day 0 distortion dude that radio rocks ALPINE FOR LIFE!!!!!!
Are you happy with the sound quality (24bit dac)?I have from 2014 the alpine 9880r and the sound is CRAP.Upper mids and highs are totally Shrill/fatiguing and the bass is Weak/light.Tested with 2 sets of speakers (polk and focal). Before i had from 1998 a sony that was brilliant.Wondering if yours with 24bit dac is more sweet/mellow and less fatigue.Mine with good cds after 10 min. my ears hurt.Also mine has no parametric preset eq.(i don't know if that helps....).
you tried gain set to +5? also is that the sub preamp out your testing 1k out of? why would you max the sub volume and then try to max the main volume? those settings are to adjust individual drivers for tuning purposes. that being said id surprised it doesn't do 4 volts. thats pretty lame!
Sorry for the super late reply. It's been a while since I've had this HU but I had the SWL to full and the EQ set to flat. I had the crossovers off so it doesn't matter which pre-out you use but they all preformed the same way.
@@micksreviews still would have been nice to see the same test done one the front or rear outputs just to see if thoose channels were cleaner at the 1000 hertz freq, mabee the subwofer output was just designed to product clean bass freq???? although at the same time someone eles has a video similar to this and is stating the same things you are
This head unit has a 24 bit D/A converter... It should be pretty clean. I like the direction you are going in with the review however I don't think I would use a phone or a tablet for the signal input for the test tones. I'd like to see your results with a power supply that is supplying 14 - 14.4v to the head unit and a (DDD) recorded CD using 0db test tones for 40hz and 1000hz. If the head unit isn't getting full power then it may not put out the full power to the RCA outputs. Alpine list it's specs as: Disc Player - Frequency Response: 5Hz ~20kHz (±1 dB) Channel Separation (at 1kHz): 85 dB Dynamic Range (at 1kHz): 95 dB Total Harmonic Distortion (at 1kHz): 0.008% Wow & Flutter (%WRMS): Below measurable limits Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105 dB The last three specifications also tell me this should be a clean playing head unit. Test the 40hz test tone on the Sub out only and the 1000hz test tone on the front or rear outs only. Also... the subwoofer setting in the head unit should be set to 0db. Where you had it set, all the way up, literally is boosting the GAIN of the subwoofer signal and will greatly increase distortion... which was visible on your device. Think of it as a "Pre-Gain" on a guitar amplifier. Turn the volume all the way up and the guitar is clean with minimal distortion, crank the "Pre-Gain" and now your guitar distorts. In fact, all EQ settings and audio enhancements should be at 0 while testing for distortion.
12-14.8v = same results CD/iPad/etc = same results. The EQ was fully flat (0db across the board) All sound settings turned off, etc. On Alpine HU's the SWL needs to be turned to +15 (this isn't a db setting) I understand how gain works.
I have this head unit but every time I play music I have to adjust that 9 band equalizer any idea how I can set this properly I have that illumination wired that touch that metal frame and shorter and after that that's how my stereo works wrong
If you're using external amplifiers, why are you even worried about the voltage output and clipping? Most folks who are audiophiles DO NOT even use the headunit to drive speakers.
Must have been a bad batch of these around 2015, 2016. Some guy on SMD went through a bunch of these before Alpine sent him a clean 2013 model. I've tested 2013 2014 and 2018 all CLEAN. Posted a vid of one. other than the bad ones, This is actually one of my favorite decks. I figured out all the menus in like 2 seconds. and the audio button goes straight to Sub output. Posted 175bt too. not recommended.
40hz-5db an your sending a blue tooth single most distorted signal of all an show the settings that there flat no bass boost on no sound retrieval on test was very scept
I just bought this head unit to replace a Sony single DN This unit is better in every way than the Sony except for power output from the RCAs also the bass is not as strong as the Sony. I will keep the Alpine because of the better display and faster USB interface.
Why are you publishing things like this when you are not fully aware of the proper way how to use this? NOWHERE in the support manual states that you POWER a subwoofer with this. It does however tell you to use an EXTERNAL AMP to run a subwoofer. In other words you detailed what would happen if you did operate this unit the way you are doing.
I never stated you could power a subwoofer with this. I'm simply measuring the voltage at the pre-outs where your "RCA" interconnects hookup at. Alpine claims this HU puts out 4v. It barely puts out half of that. Your "external amplifer" amplifies this signal. The more voltage your amplifier inputs can handle the less it will actually have to amplify. So if your amplifier inputs can handle 4-5v and you're only sending it 2v you'll have to level match "turn the gain higher" to reach your amps expected output. When you do this you're also amplifying the noise twice as much as if you were sending it a clean 4v signal. I guess the better question is why are you commenting on videos when you have no idea what you're talking about?
Actually your testing and presentation and giving results ARE FLAWED. I have an BS in Industrial Engineering and have been working in the Quality Control/Quality Assurance industry for over 25 years and there is NO WAY I would NEVER present a test result in the way you did. ANY and ALL TESTING RESULTS NEED to be VERIFIED. You didn't properly explain you testing procedure, Equipment, STANDARDS of CALIBRATION, STANDARDS OF QUALITY OF CALIBRATION and I can list 10 MORE procedures that you didn't even come close to. Of Course, you will expect that reply from ALPINE. They have a STAFF of ENGINEERS who I'm sure went to grad school to be able to do what they do AND BE PAID FOR IT. Feel free to REPOST AGAIN of your testing results.... PS.... There IS a SUCH THING as having or getting a BAD METER........
You don't have to lie to make friends. And you wasted a lot of money going to school because you're still dumb as fuck :) This is all coming from the guy that thought I was trying to power my subwoofer with a HU. The HU was supplied with proper power and a proper signal. The outputs failed to deliver the advertised voltage. It's quite clear. There's a very expensive test tool hooked up to it in the video that confirms this. Please explain how my test is flawed. I need the expert opinion of an Industrial Engineer that works in a QA department at some call center.
You are COMPLAINING ABOUT the output of a $300 Head UNIT!!!!!!!.......who is the DUMB ONE here? Sorry, you sensitive YOUNG BITCHES can't handle constructive criticism. it's a shame you had to go to the [point of showing your maturity level here. Take your RUclips funds and invest in a Pioneer P99. Then when you are ALL grown up. Come back a post a comment to people who TRULY KNOW Audiophile Quality. CHECK MATE.... P.S. Don't be a HATER on people that are SMARTER THAN YOU....
I REALLY shouldn't ENTERTAIN anyone WHO TYPES like a SPONGE BOB MEME but I'm still waiting for you to tell me how my test is FLAWED. Here's an actual AUDIO/ELECTRICAL ENGINEER using fancier equipment doing the same test and getting the same results: ruclips.net/video/er5Zp-lliYM/видео.html - I guess their test is flawed as well? You should really stop. You're just embarrassing yourself.
I was thinking of picking up the kenwood kdc-x998, or maybe the Excelon KDC-X702, or maybe the Pioneer DEH-80PRS, or a cheaper option, PIONEER DEH-X8800BHS.
I actually just ordered another 80prs for my current install. It's perfect for what I need it for "2-way active setup". But the UI is terrible. What amps/speakers are you running and what are you looking for. I've literally had all of them except for the 8800BHS so I could help you narrow your selection down.
I would use amplifier Hertz, I've thinking in HERTZ HCP5D, or Hertz H-604. Speaker I will buy Hertz Mpk 165p, subwoofer, Hertz too. And to finish with a golden key, to do acoustic treatment at the doors.
the mpk 165p is essentially the mp 165.3 and the mp tweeter, i had the mp 165.3's and the ml 280.3's and I wasn't impressed. going back to a cheaper set of JL Audio c5-650's to go with my hd900/5 and 12w6v3-2. if you plan on running something passive with a crossover like the MPK's go with the kdc-x702 you'll love it - blows the x998 out of the water.
make the measurement with the radio connected to the amplifier, in that new measurement it should be fine. it's possible that it's wrong for being without lmpedance.
I think I know what you're getting at but if it needed a load I think the signal would have looked crazy. Anytime I tested something like an amplifier that needed to be put under load to show a correct reading the signal looked absolutely crazy. I think if the pre-outs needed to be put under load the signal wouldn't have looked that good. Could be wrong though.
I just found this video. It shows a guy who really knows what he's talking about doing the same exact test. He put it under load and the results didn't change: ruclips.net/video/er5Zp-lliYM/видео.html
I have an 80-PRS which is surprisingly pretty nice. I can run 2 way active setup without an external DSP and it sounds really good. The UI is borderline garbage though.
@@micksreviews I have the 80-PRS and the UI makes me want to toss it out the window. However it sounds heavenly so I will keep it. Do you think it could possibly be a firmware issue on the 149 or it is crap hardware? If the 80-PRS and the 149 had a baby and the outcome was the guts of the 80 and the UI of the 149....that would be the perfect piece of kit.
It appears you are using Bluetooth from your iPad. Bluetooth is a horribly compressed audio codec and will not give you clean audio. If you want a good clean result, then compliment your expensive Fluke scope with a true, lab calibrated, signal generator.
Maybe the iPad was sending a distorted signal??? I have seen test where the iPhone/iPods/iPhones will actually cause distortion just saying. I believe it was one of STEVE Meade videos where he was setting gains using an iPad and actually had to turn the volume down a couple clicks to receive a clean signal. That was on BT I believe but you never know.
Unless you're an expert kick rocks, I don't recommend listening to this guy
Here's an electrical engineer doing the same exact test and getting the same exact results: ruclips.net/video/er5Zp-lliYM/видео.html
Did you turn off the interior amp?
@@timgraysontv of course.
Mine goes to 35 with a clean wave, but if I had a channel on the DSP and amp playing, I hear a clear change in tone from 27 to 28. When I run the signal through the DSP you see a clear dent in the wave at the 27 to 28 mark (dsp only halfway up) So its gotta be my deck.. unless the DSP just won't take the input. I'm only at like 2v tho. (DSP-408) should take up to 3.2v in
UPDATE: Deck is completely clean. The Dayton Dsp won't take in more than 1.5v without freaking out
Sorry dude but I personally bought one brand new and I had this deck for mor than 3 years and it really sounds and works amazing. No regrets at all and I recommend this unit to anyone that is looking for reliability, excellent sound and awesome looks
You clearly don't understand what this video is about. At normal listening volumes it's okay but at 3/4 volume there's distortion and it doesn't output the rated power. Nothing you would experience just listening to it regularly hooked up to stock door speakers.
Are you happy with the sound quality (24bit dac)?I have from 2014 the alpine 9880r and the sound is CRAP.Upper mids and highs are totally Shrill/fatiguing and the bass is Weak/light.Tested with 2 sets of speakers (polk and focal). Before i had from 1998 a sony that was brilliant.Wondering if yours with 24bit dac is more sweet/mellow and less fatigue.Mine with good cds after 10 min. my ears hurt.Also mine has no parametric preset eq.(i don't know if that helps....).
Have you tested the app to make sure it's actually sending a 0db signal? And I couldn't exactly tell how you were hooked up but it looked like Bluetooth? Is it possible Bluetooth added distortion and lowered the signal output?
Hardwired via USB from the iPad to the HU - digital signal.
Any idea why these are going for over $300 right now? is it the 9 band PEQ ? I'm looking at the 175BT now for better bluetooth and 5v out. I can't get more than like 2 volts clean outta my 149BT (vol 27)
If you have to get a single din in this price range I’d strongly recommended a pioneer 80prs
Iv'e been buying Alpine since 1983 I agree they are not what they use to be I have a 149BT with an all alpine-R hook up nobody is just listening to the radio I have 3 power amps and my car is jump'in like a disco crystal clean I bang at vol on 30 all day 0 distortion dude that radio rocks ALPINE FOR LIFE!!!!!!
I love mine too! I have 2 McIntosh amp, sounds perfect!
Are you happy with the sound quality (24bit dac)?I have from 2014 the alpine 9880r and the sound is CRAP.Upper mids and highs are totally Shrill/fatiguing and the bass is Weak/light.Tested with 2 sets of speakers (polk and focal). Before i had from 1998 a sony that was brilliant.Wondering if yours with 24bit dac is more sweet/mellow and less fatigue.Mine with good cds after 10 min. my ears hurt.Also mine has no parametric preset eq.(i don't know if that helps....).
Was your phone/ipad volume on max or half way? That would alter the voltage
Yes. It was at full volume. Please refer to the pinned comment where an electrical engineer performs the same test and yields the same exact results.
I just tested mine today, 4.5 volts at 31 volume clean over Bluetooth
I guess that's why they've been making and SELLING them for 6 years and counting? TFOH
Please refer to the pinned comment where an electrical engineer performs the same test and yields the same exact results.
you tried gain set to +5? also is that the sub preamp out your testing 1k out of? why would you max the sub volume and then try to max the main volume?
those settings are to adjust individual drivers for tuning purposes.
that being said id surprised it doesn't do 4 volts. thats pretty lame!
Sorry for the super late reply. It's been a while since I've had this HU but I had the SWL to full and the EQ set to flat. I had the crossovers off so it doesn't matter which pre-out you use but they all preformed the same way.
@@micksreviews still would have been nice to see the same test done one the front or rear outputs just to see if thoose channels were cleaner at the 1000 hertz freq, mabee the subwofer output was just designed to product clean bass freq???? although at the same time someone eles has a video similar to this and is stating the same things you are
This head unit has a 24 bit D/A converter... It should be pretty clean. I like the direction you are going in with the review however I don't think I would use a phone or a tablet for the signal input for the test tones. I'd like to see your results with a power supply that is supplying 14 - 14.4v to the head unit and a (DDD) recorded CD using 0db test tones for 40hz and 1000hz. If the head unit isn't getting full power then it may not put out the full power to the RCA outputs.
Alpine list it's specs as:
Disc Player -
Frequency Response: 5Hz ~20kHz (±1 dB)
Channel Separation (at 1kHz): 85 dB
Dynamic Range (at 1kHz): 95 dB
Total Harmonic Distortion (at 1kHz): 0.008%
Wow & Flutter (%WRMS): Below measurable limits
Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 105 dB
The last three specifications also tell me this should be a clean playing head unit. Test the 40hz test tone on the Sub out only and the 1000hz test tone on the front or rear outs only. Also... the subwoofer setting in the head unit should be set to 0db. Where you had it set, all the way up, literally is boosting the GAIN of the subwoofer signal and will greatly increase distortion... which was visible on your device. Think of it as a "Pre-Gain" on a guitar amplifier. Turn the volume all the way up and the guitar is clean with minimal distortion, crank the "Pre-Gain" and now your guitar distorts. In fact, all EQ settings and audio enhancements should be at 0 while testing for distortion.
12-14.8v = same results
CD/iPad/etc = same results.
The EQ was fully flat (0db across the board)
All sound settings turned off, etc.
On Alpine HU's the SWL needs to be turned to +15 (this isn't a db setting)
I understand how gain works.
I have this head unit but every time I play music I have to adjust that 9 band equalizer any idea how I can set this properly I have that illumination wired that touch that metal frame and shorter and after that that's how my stereo works wrong
What do you think of polk audio speakers and NVX amplifiers?
Never ran either or. Sorry :(
You're app/device must be down 6db. No way you're only getting 2v from the deck
If you're using external amplifiers, why are you even worried about the voltage output and clipping? Most folks who are audiophiles DO NOT even use the headunit to drive speakers.
Eric Xiong thats the voltage of the signal going to the external amplifiers not high power output to be connected to speakers
Not sure if trolling or stupid but I'm measuring the pre-outs that send the signal to the amplifiers. Not the high level speaker wires on the harness.
Eric Xiong 🤦🏽♂️
Output rca volumen 23?? Distorsión???
Entonces son malos este modelo de alpine , recomiendas o esta mejor el pioneer deh-80psr.
Must have been a bad batch of these around 2015, 2016. Some guy on SMD went through a bunch of these before Alpine sent him a clean 2013 model. I've tested 2013 2014 and 2018 all CLEAN. Posted a vid of one.
other than the bad ones, This is actually one of my favorite decks. I figured out all the menus in like 2 seconds. and the audio button goes straight to Sub output. Posted 175bt too. not recommended.
what high end single din would you recommend?
JN Mackall I'm using a KDC-X701 and I'm really enjoying it right now.
This is a GOOD unit. The person who posted this NONSENSE isn't using it properly.
I'm using it correctly. I just don't think you understand how to properly test one. Read my reply to your comment above and apologize.
This is the radio in the Alfa Romeo 4C.
Meh now this model is going $800 who would’ve figured. I have the cde hd148bt wish it was a 149 😢
40hz-5db an your sending a blue tooth single most distorted signal of all an show the settings that there flat no bass boost on no sound retrieval on test was very scept
This stereo is amazing!
I just bought this head unit to replace a Sony single DN This unit is better in every way than the Sony except for power output from the RCAs also the bass is not as strong as the Sony. I will keep the Alpine because of the better display and faster USB interface.
Why are you publishing things like this when you are not fully aware of the proper way how to use this? NOWHERE in the support manual states that you POWER a subwoofer with this. It does however tell you to use an EXTERNAL AMP to run a subwoofer. In other words you detailed what would happen if you did operate this unit the way you are doing.
I never stated you could power a subwoofer with this. I'm simply measuring the voltage at the pre-outs where your "RCA" interconnects hookup at. Alpine claims this HU puts out 4v. It barely puts out half of that. Your "external amplifer" amplifies this signal. The more voltage your amplifier inputs can handle the less it will actually have to amplify. So if your amplifier inputs can handle 4-5v and you're only sending it 2v you'll have to level match "turn the gain higher" to reach your amps expected output. When you do this you're also amplifying the noise twice as much as if you were sending it a clean 4v signal. I guess the better question is why are you commenting on videos when you have no idea what you're talking about?
Actually your testing and presentation and giving results ARE FLAWED. I have an BS in Industrial Engineering and have been working in the Quality Control/Quality Assurance industry for over 25 years and there is NO WAY I would NEVER present a test result in the way you did. ANY and ALL TESTING RESULTS NEED to be VERIFIED. You didn't properly explain you testing procedure, Equipment, STANDARDS of CALIBRATION, STANDARDS OF QUALITY OF CALIBRATION and I can list 10 MORE procedures that you didn't even come close to. Of Course, you will expect that reply from ALPINE. They have a STAFF of ENGINEERS who I'm sure went to grad school to be able to do what they do AND BE PAID FOR IT.
Feel free to REPOST AGAIN of your testing results....
PS.... There IS a SUCH THING as having or getting a BAD METER........
You don't have to lie to make friends. And you wasted a lot of money going to school because you're still dumb as fuck :) This is all coming from the guy that thought I was trying to power my subwoofer with a HU.
The HU was supplied with proper power and a proper signal. The outputs failed to deliver the advertised voltage. It's quite clear. There's a very expensive test tool hooked up to it in the video that confirms this.
Please explain how my test is flawed. I need the expert opinion of an Industrial Engineer that works in a QA department at some call center.
You are COMPLAINING ABOUT the output of a $300 Head UNIT!!!!!!!.......who is the DUMB ONE here? Sorry, you sensitive YOUNG BITCHES can't handle constructive criticism. it's a shame you had to go to the [point of showing your maturity level here.
Take your RUclips funds and invest in a Pioneer P99. Then when you are ALL grown up. Come back a post a comment to people who TRULY KNOW Audiophile Quality. CHECK MATE....
P.S. Don't be a HATER on people that are SMARTER THAN YOU....
I REALLY shouldn't ENTERTAIN anyone WHO TYPES like a SPONGE BOB MEME but I'm still waiting for you to tell me how my test is FLAWED. Here's an actual AUDIO/ELECTRICAL ENGINEER using fancier equipment doing the same test and getting the same results: ruclips.net/video/er5Zp-lliYM/видео.html - I guess their test is flawed as well?
You should really stop. You're just embarrassing yourself.
Tanks man! I almost bought one 149bt
Close call! What are you thinking about getting now?
I was thinking of picking up the kenwood kdc-x998, or maybe the Excelon KDC-X702, or maybe the Pioneer DEH-80PRS, or a cheaper option, PIONEER DEH-X8800BHS.
I actually just ordered another 80prs for my current install. It's perfect for what I need it for "2-way active setup". But the UI is terrible. What amps/speakers are you running and what are you looking for. I've literally had all of them except for the 8800BHS so I could help you narrow your selection down.
I would use amplifier Hertz, I've thinking in HERTZ HCP5D, or Hertz H-604. Speaker I will buy Hertz Mpk 165p, subwoofer, Hertz too. And to finish with a golden key, to do acoustic treatment at the doors.
the mpk 165p is essentially the mp 165.3 and the mp tweeter, i had the mp 165.3's and the ml 280.3's and I wasn't impressed. going back to a cheaper set of JL Audio c5-650's to go with my hd900/5 and 12w6v3-2. if you plan on running something passive with a crossover like the MPK's go with the kdc-x702 you'll love it - blows the x998 out of the water.
Then your meter is fucked up because other units have been tested and do 4v all day everyday
make the measurement with the radio connected to the amplifier, in that new measurement it should be fine. it's possible that it's wrong for being without lmpedance.
I think I know what you're getting at but if it needed a load I think the signal would have looked crazy. Anytime I tested something like an amplifier that needed to be put under load to show a correct reading the signal looked absolutely crazy. I think if the pre-outs needed to be put under load the signal wouldn't have looked that good. Could be wrong though.
I just found this video. It shows a guy who really knows what he's talking about doing the same exact test. He put it under load and the results didn't change: ruclips.net/video/er5Zp-lliYM/видео.html
What company makes a good deck then? Pioneer is junk
I have an 80-PRS which is surprisingly pretty nice. I can run 2 way active setup without an external DSP and it sounds really good. The UI is borderline garbage though.
@@micksreviews I have the 80-PRS and the UI makes me want to toss it out the window. However it sounds heavenly so I will keep it.
Do you think it could possibly be a firmware issue on the 149 or it is crap hardware? If the 80-PRS and the 149 had a baby and the outcome was the guts of the 80 and the UI of the 149....that would be the perfect piece of kit.
It appears you are using Bluetooth from your iPad. Bluetooth is a horribly compressed audio codec and will not give you clean audio. If you want a good clean result, then compliment your expensive Fluke scope with a true, lab calibrated, signal generator.
Not using bluetooth. Had the iPad hard wired into the back of the HU using a USB cable.
Maybe the iPad was sending a distorted signal??? I have seen test where the iPhone/iPods/iPhones will actually cause distortion just saying. I believe it was one of STEVE Meade videos where he was setting gains using an iPad and actually had to turn the volume down a couple clicks to receive a clean signal. That was on BT I believe but you never know.
You don't know how to use it you need to take this down!!!
Please refer to the pinned comment where an electrical engineer performs the same test and yields the same exact results.