"garbage out of the box" best fits this printer, trying to mod it up as much I can without spending too much money, thinking out updating to marlin on the stock board, and use z auto-align, good tip on the belt tensioning
Man, I love your video. It's right at being PRO quality. It was extremely Informative. You did a great job. The most information I have ever received in a home done video. Congrats, Great job!!!!!!! Fred Crawley from Georgia
I'm just about to buy one of these cause the price including your mods it's not bad, I am really happy I found your video thank you :) I look forward to watching your future videos
Thanks for the video, I just ordered this printer and a lot of extras to get it going awesome. My fried keeps bugging me to get the printer he wants, Ender 5. I would rather tinker with this one. My 3rd printer.
Hey @GoldenJaguar392 great video ! I am receiving my X5SA pro soon and I will definitely implement some of the changes you made so thank you! I really want to implement a direct drive system and yours looks perfect any information/links for this ? Also i cannot get 6mm ball for the Z axis couplers, will 5mm work ?
5mm ball bearings should be fine, as for the direct drive system I can certainly send you some links to it, now in order to mount this system you may need to do this mod first. ruclips.net/video/QOGs1Fv_YaE/видео.html I can't seem to find the ddrive setup on thingverse any more but with the mod any ender 3 ddrive seup will work
Awesome BRO those kingroons are really nice little printers for the money. I modded mine with a pancake direct drive extruder with bondtech bmg gears. Also got rid of those noisy 30mm fans.
Great videos, very helpful! I own three of the Pro models of the X5SA platform, and would love to have your start and end g codes, specifically for your purge line. I'm still running stock ABL sensors without issue, but a correct purge line like what we see here in your video would be awesome.
Well a few things, I used klipper for my firmware so some of the start code may not work if you're using marlin, but can taylor it to your needs let me know
@@GoldenJaguar3D I'd love something like that too. I was originally thinking of getting an ender 3 v2 but I stumbled upon the core XY design and I really like it. Most printers of this design are quite expensive but this one comes at a great price for a beginner to tinker with.
Is there a reason you are using the BT touch over the probe that comes with? Im building a parts list and wanted to know if the BL touch is a must or not. Also can you do a video or point me to the direction on how to better tune klipper.. my prints look like there isnt enough filament.
Inductive probe are ok if you can get a decent one that not affected by heat drift it’s usually fine, however bltouch are much more accurate and consistent and it not affected by heat drift, I will be making walk of how I typically setup my klipper config and tuning and such, I’m realizing a lot folks want to see this done so no worries it’s coming soon.
@@GoldenJaguar3D Well, Looks like I will be upgrading sooner than I'd like. My probe now only completes some test. Keep randomly getting: 00:02:58 No trigger on probe after full movement 00:02:58 No trigger on probe after full movement.. this was also followed by the toolend crashing into the bed destroying it because the sensor is flakey. Thats pretty bad out the box... :(
Awesome video and great insight on what to expect out of the box. I’m looking into large scale printers for my in house automotive design prototypes and it’s between the X5SA-600 (I’d plan on adding a direct drive bmg + slice engineering hotend, BLTouch + Klipper conversion, etc {basically your setup}) or the Moddix Big 60. Ideally I’d like to print PA6-CF , and other exotic materials for final production parts.
Hey, I have a question. Does the x5sa wobble more with a direct drive than without one? By the way .. after your video I also removed the Z stabilizers and tadaa the print bed runs smoothly. Thanks for the great video. Greetings from Germany
no not really all the weight for direct drive setup is on the gantry so their shouldn't be any wobble, I happy my video was able to help you!! thank you.
Very nice info, video and explanation. I own a Tronxy xy 2 pro and just as with the x5sa I replaced many parts and works amazing. I think buying this kit to obtain just the frame and bed comes handy as it is cheap. I am thinking on building a Voron Trident as I can print the parts I need for it in my Tronxy with the enclosure I made to be capable of printing on ABS. If Tronxy moves out from Chitu firmware and replace parts as fans for better ones, they will be producing nice 3d printers with less complains.
Can you explain the spacers you are suposed to put on the sliding rod? My manual mentions thise peaces and the photos show them installed. However, its impossible to put them on because the rods are long. Do we need them?
Hey! Finally someone on youtube that knows what they are doing with a tronxy! I'm getting ready to do the plunge with my SKRV1.4 Turbo and 2209's. Do you have a marlin build you could send over to me? I would really appreciate it. (Not just the firmare, the whole build file would be great) Or point me in the right direction for Klipper? Thanks!
Hey I will be making a klipper tutorial soon so look out for it, I think it will help you alot. I'll also prove a working config file that you can adjust to your specific printer.
I'll the link for you, keep in mind in order to mount this on the tronxy I a stock ender 3 carriage on top of the x5sa carriage I'm releasing a small video with more detail today! www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793/comments
In my opinion the printer as stock is actual tangible trash. Currently waiting for a SKR v2.0 in hopes of getting sensorless homing, BLTouch, still need to figure out the dual z syncing with a belt, overall this is more of a project than a 3D printer, only problem is they're selling it under the name: 3D printer. Honestly for anyone who wants a proper CoreXY, I suggest the Voron. Well worth the price especially with the X5SA as reference lol Based on the print you had gonig on therre, I'm not at all impressed with the printer however, I'm really impressed with your changes on it!
@@GoldenJaguar3D Just got mine working a couple days ago, new SKR2 board, stole my Ender 3's screen, new firmware calibrated, sensorless homing, proper BLTouch bed mesh leveling, I managed ot get a decen benchy out of it...I'm hesitant to call it a TronXY at this point tho, we likely put more effort into our printers than they did into its initial design lol
i have convert my firmware in marlin... and i have stock machine version PRO... what feedrate, accelleration and jerk do you use for print? my English is bad... sorry if u have tell this on video... Thkyou for video nice work ;)
No worries I understood everything you said, I haven’t used marlin in months now, I use klipper firmware so I couldn’t tell you the value I used when I had marlin sorry 😞.
I'm looking at the TRONXY printers and would like to have the links to your upgrades. The links provided are dead. Can you update? Great video! Thanks for the information!
@@GoldenJaguar3D Thank you. Another question... what is your opinion on the 3 point kinematic bed versus the standard design of the Tronxy x5sa? I'm trying to decide if it's better to start with the Tronxy x5sa 400 and upgrade or to just build from scratch. Any thoughts?
I hope they adressed this, it´s simple to solve. 16 AWG wire (rated for max. 10A) the heatbed draws 13A and a max of 16A on "ignition". This is an old "Non-Pro" Version. ruclips.net/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/видео.html @4:00 Her is a burnt power supply 2 months after the Fan of the Power Supply didn´t work anymore, after 100 run hours. I don´t know if the guy changed the faulty fan in this time, otherwise it is his fault too (he knew about the fan). The other fans (Mainboard ..) are also not running smoothly. ruclips.net/video/r4d_Hlv0FJc/видео.html
Ciao. Io ho una x5sa nuova quando stampa è molto lenta. Come faccio per aumentare la velocità? Impostata in cura a 120mm/s. Ma sicuramente va molto pie lenta
Whoa, you have that tronxy cooking! Awesome petg prints. If I may ask, what are your retraction distance and speed setting with that setup? I'm still running a bowden and my retraction time are really stacking up.
Thank you, since I’m using direct drive my retraction are significantly lower I’m using .5mm with 50mm/s retraction speed, I’m also using a pheatus dragon hotend
@@GoldenJaguar3DThanks. I have been working with the stock firmware and hardware and got petg printing much better and quicker then stock but it is still not good enough. I been trying to get the bengine(www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774) to print with petg but I get too much oozing. It prints perfectly on my cheapo monoprice mini. My last ditch effort before I start replacing things is to try a filament dryer. If that doesn't work then I will change out the hot end and go to marlin. I am avoiding klipper for now as I like having a screen. Keep up the videos, I really enjoy them.
@@GoldenJaguar3D after I buy , would you mind help me in improving it ? Also do you recommend buying pro or normal as you are suggesting we do the improvements
@@azzamody sure, get the pro if want to don’t want spend more money on linear rails, since the pro comes won’t linear guides which one step below linear linear rails personal I don’t see the difference in quality vs linear rails. So I would suggest getting the pro for minimal modding to improve print quality
@@GoldenJaguar3D but is important to check the "tension" setting on the rollers. Some are by factory setting to tight. There are cases when people couldn´t put the roller assembly Plate onto the rail, and one reported rubbing the chromium off the rail ;) Some wobbling ball bearings (1mm tilt) from the pulleys are also reported. 50% faulty 50% good in the same set. The linear bearings of the Z-Axis rods are sometimes made of metal (like yours) and sometimes plastic ones which tend to break open. Maybe they are all metal by now, but some people get old revisions laying around in the warehouses? .... 2 days ago i was shure this would be my first 3D Printer, now i consider building one from scratch by myself. Cost for basic kit + the needed Modding which has to be done, should compensate for the higher single part prices.
@@hectorpascale1013 yes you’re right, but keep Mind there are different model of the same size bed the x5sa and the x5sa-pro which what I have in the video most of what you’re describing is the x5sa which comes with v wheels and the plastic bearings that rides the z rod, the pro replaced those with linear guides and metal bearings for z, but is tronxy quality control is not the best at all hints why told the original op to get th pro version instead of the regular. Thank for the added information.
Hey, my x5sa with tmc2209s is loud on even slow movement, how is yours so quiet? I don't mean the fans, but the axis moving. I run an aftermarket board
I'm using a skr1.4 turbo mcu and tmc 2209s it could just be a combination of the firmware I'm using which is klipper and I'm also using stronger and decently silent steppers.
when you upgraded to the bigtree tech turbo board, did you need to get any expansion board? the tronxy board has that expension board where you attach everything the fans, hotend, auto level etc.. Thanks
@@GoldenJaguar3D i've been getting a lot of layer shifting recently and i havent changed anything. after some research it seems the options are to change out the board or try to use closed loop steppers (which I can't do on the current tronxy board). do you know about closed loop stepper motors? I just found out about it, I hope this comes standard on new printers in the future. its pretty amazing.
@@hankb7725 yes I’m aware of closed stepper is kool but not needed I don’t get skipped steps ever, one because I’m using klipper firmware, I run all my stepper in spread cycle instead of stealth chop with 2209 stepper drivers, also I have 2x 92oz stepper on my x and y they are pretty beefy. I got off Amazon from a company called stepper online they make good motors
@@GoldenJaguar3D Thanks. I just ordered 2 stepper online motors for x and y. But i think the shifting can happen to any printer. My understanding is that if the printhead snags on the part somehow it can get thrown off. Or any kind of accidental hit to the printer or something like that can cause a shift. also the faster you print the more likely you are to lose steps. so I think the closed loop steppers can really allow you to printer much faster because they will correct any shifts. good information though man, I subscribed, I'm going to check out your other videos. I'm also not clear about what you did with the bearings for the Z or how that works exactly, I'll look into it.
@@hankb7725 awesome 👏🏾 yes layer shift I mainly cause by lack of torque, the more power you get stepper motors the more torque you gain but they can also get hot, just of the find the right balance hints why I went with beefy motors for x and y
I thought you were going to print ABS on the Tronxy from the video title... BLTouch is wasted on such a small print bed. I use a Monoprice Select Mini as my dedicated ABS printer.
Oh man, if you would cover upgrading the board :D Yup, this and my Ender 5 Plus both were absolute nightmares out of the box. Would be awesome if you'd post more on the upgrade and what mods you have managed to put a Hemera on mine....so far so good. But I gotta disagree, BMG extruder is a biggest POS, it's an absolute nightmare to load filament in to and remove if there is a plug from a cold pull. Might be a different story but I have 1 on E5+ which is bowden still, I've come so close to putting the stock one back it's such a poor design to not allow you to manually feed filament and half the time it misses feeding it and bends the filament :p
Sorry to hear that man but I love my BMG , did you put a piece of ptfe tube between the Hotend and the extruder? Are using it in a direct drive format?
@@GoldenJaguar3D no was still bowden, which I believe is why I hate it, have to walk around to front of printer to hit feed and then walk back to make sure it fed which half the time it doesn't. If they made it so It could be fed manually then it would be awesome. But it's all about the Biqu H2 now, stoked to get one of them after the Hemera has made such a huge difference, hopefully they have better mounting options than enderfanboy...I mean e3d
Now THIS is the video Ive been looking for!!! I'm just about to purchase an X5SA Pro, and looking to do nearly the exact same mods as you've done here!!! Would you mind sharing the link for the file for the extruder bracket/mount, and the parts you used for the DD extruder please!?! Id like to set up exactly the way you have it now. Im also going to be replacing the board to the SKR 1.4 turbo, and inspired by you going to be trying out Klipper. Im kind of new to 3d printing so the more detail the better! If you'd prefer to send via email or something let me know and ill send you my address. Thank you for your time and sharing your awesome printers!!!!
sure thing, this is the fanduct i'm using, www.thingiverse.com/spodesta/designs, you will need an ender 3 x carriage to mount this duct, I have video showing how to do this mod, get BMG extuder from amazon as well srk 1.4 turbo with tmc 2209 stepper drivers, I have a klipper tutorial on the channel you can use to help you install it, if you need more help you can alway DM through facebook messanger
skr 1.4 turbo with TMC 2209 Stepper driver, BMG Clone Extuder for direct drive with dragon hotend, Bltouch clone, 50watt heater cartridge, Anti z wobble mod, it decouple the lead screw from the bed. Magnetics spring still sheet bed with pei, running klipper firmware.
@@hudada3330 I'm using a an ender 3 x carriage on top of the tronxy carriage. check this video out that i made of the mod it explains a bit better, it's an super easy mod ruclips.net/video/QOGs1Fv_YaE/видео.html
@@GoldenJaguar3D thanks very useful, anyway if you replace your stock board it means mini box on side of x stepper motor no longer needed? Is that right? If it right i need more cable from skr board direct to hotend and etc?
Sorry about that man! I went in and fixed them but here is the link to our store. If there is something your not seeing let me know. www.amazon.com/shop/goldenjaguar392
I just ordered a Tronxy X5SA Pro and needed this advise on upgrades. A very helpful video, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
"garbage out of the box" best fits this printer, trying to mod it up as much I can without spending too much money, thinking out updating to marlin on the stock board, and use z auto-align, good tip on the belt tensioning
Pretty much! but it also have tons of potential if you focus on the problem areas
A simple answer on keeping the z aligned is to add a belt and pulleys to the steppers for the z axis
Man, I love your video. It's right at being PRO quality. It was extremely Informative. You did a great job. The most information I have ever received in a home done video. Congrats, Great job!!!!!!! Fred Crawley from Georgia
Thank you! I so happy my video helped you!
I'm just about to buy one of these cause the price including your mods it's not bad, I am really happy I found your video thank you :) I look forward to watching your future videos
Glad I could help
I would love to see a good clear walkthrough on sorting out the firmware
I'll be doing some firmware stuff with my Voron legacy build, you can come check out then.
Thanks for the video, I just ordered this printer and a lot of extras to get it going awesome. My fried keeps bugging me to get the printer he wants, Ender 5. I would rather tinker with this one. My 3rd printer.
You’re welcome, it’s an awesome printer man few mods and it prints amazingly will
Hey @GoldenJaguar392 great video !
I am receiving my X5SA pro soon and I will definitely implement some of the changes you made so thank you!
I really want to implement a direct drive system and yours looks perfect any information/links for this ?
Also i cannot get 6mm ball for the Z axis couplers, will 5mm work ?
5mm ball bearings should be fine, as for the direct drive system I can certainly send you some links to it, now in order to mount this system you may need to do this mod first. ruclips.net/video/QOGs1Fv_YaE/видео.html
I can't seem to find the ddrive setup on thingverse any more but with the mod any ender 3 ddrive seup will work
Great video, keep it up!
I know it's an older video, but by chance you still have links to the spool holder and that filament guide?
No sorry it’s been awhile I’m gonna still see it have on my thingy verse collection
Does this printer print ABS well. Which printer would you recommend for mostly abs printing. Thanks for the video.
Yes it does, along as you have in an enclosure it prints abs very well. build a Voron they print abs very well.
Awesome BRO those kingroons are really nice little printers for the money. I modded mine with a pancake direct drive extruder with bondtech bmg gears. Also got rid of those noisy 30mm fans.
Yes it’s awesome little printer, they could make a great print farm.
thanks man, ....stay focus on job, but family first :) best regards
Thank you 🙏🏿
Great videos, very helpful! I own three of the Pro models of the X5SA platform, and would love to have your start and end g codes, specifically for your purge line. I'm still running stock ABL sensors without issue, but a correct purge line like what we see here in your video would be awesome.
Well a few things, I used klipper for my firmware so some of the start code may not work if you're using marlin, but can taylor it to your needs let me know
Great video. I’ve been thinking about buying one of those. You may have sold me on it.
Go for it!
I’m new to 3D printing.
I would appreciate seeing how you do the component upgrades you spoke about.
Good video… very informative.
I can possible do a video for you before covert my other printer.
@@GoldenJaguar3D I'd love something like that too. I was originally thinking of getting an ender 3 v2 but I stumbled upon the core XY design and I really like it. Most printers of this design are quite expensive but this one comes at a great price for a beginner to tinker with.
@@Invictus_Mithra it absolutely is a great printer with some mods added to it.
@@GoldenJaguar3D I found someone selling this printer used for $280 USD. I think I'm going to go for it!
Is there a reason you are using the BT touch over the probe that comes with? Im building a parts list and wanted to know if the BL touch is a must or not. Also can you do a video or point me to the direction on how to better tune klipper.. my prints look like there isnt enough filament.
Inductive probe are ok if you can get a decent one that not affected by heat drift it’s usually fine, however bltouch are much more accurate and consistent and it not affected by heat drift, I will be making walk of how I typically setup my klipper config and tuning and such, I’m realizing a lot folks want to see this done so no worries it’s coming soon.
@@GoldenJaguar3D Well, Looks like I will be upgrading sooner than I'd like. My probe now only completes some test. Keep randomly getting:
00:02:58
No trigger on probe after full movement
00:02:58
No trigger on probe after full movement..
this was also followed by the toolend crashing into the bed destroying it because the sensor is flakey. Thats pretty bad out the box... :(
Any Download links for the hotend and hotend mount ?
here you go www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793
Awesome video and great insight on what to expect out of the box.
I’m looking into large scale printers for my in house automotive design prototypes and it’s between the X5SA-600 (I’d plan on adding a direct drive bmg + slice engineering hotend, BLTouch + Klipper conversion, etc {basically your setup}) or the Moddix Big 60.
Ideally I’d like to print PA6-CF , and other exotic materials for final production parts.
Glad I was able to provide you some insigh.
Hey, I have a question. Does the x5sa wobble more with a direct drive than without one? By the way .. after your video I also removed the Z stabilizers and tadaa the print bed runs smoothly. Thanks for the great video. Greetings from Germany
no not really all the weight for direct drive setup is on the gantry so their shouldn't be any wobble, I happy my video was able to help you!! thank you.
Very nice info, video and explanation. I own a Tronxy xy 2 pro and just as with the x5sa I replaced many parts and works amazing. I think buying this kit to obtain just the frame and bed comes handy as it is cheap. I am thinking on building a Voron Trident as I can print the parts I need for it in my Tronxy with the enclosure I made to be capable of printing on ABS. If Tronxy moves out from Chitu firmware and replace parts as fans for better ones, they will be producing nice 3d printers with less complains.
I totally agree with everything you said!
Can you explain the spacers you are suposed to put on the sliding rod? My manual mentions thise peaces and the photos show them installed. However, its impossible to put them on because the rods are long. Do we need them?
Hmm I'm not sure what spacers you are, if you talking about the z rod stabilizer then no you don't need them at all.
Hey! Finally someone on youtube that knows what they are doing with a tronxy! I'm getting ready to do the plunge with my SKRV1.4 Turbo and 2209's. Do you have a marlin build you could send over to me? I would really appreciate it. (Not just the firmare, the whole build file would be great) Or point me in the right direction for Klipper? Thanks!
Hey I will be making a klipper tutorial soon so look out for it, I think it will help you alot. I'll also prove a working config file that you can adjust to your specific printer.
@@GoldenJaguar3D What STL did you use for your BMG extruder mount?
I'll the link for you, keep in mind in order to mount this on the tronxy I a stock ender 3 carriage on top of the x5sa carriage I'm releasing a small video with more detail today!
www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793/comments
What direct drive extruder are you using?
In my opinion the printer as stock is actual tangible trash. Currently waiting for a SKR v2.0 in hopes of getting sensorless homing, BLTouch, still need to figure out the dual z syncing with a belt, overall this is more of a project than a 3D printer, only problem is they're selling it under the name: 3D printer.
Honestly for anyone who wants a proper CoreXY, I suggest the Voron. Well worth the price especially with the X5SA as reference lol
Based on the print you had gonig on therre, I'm not at all impressed with the printer however, I'm really impressed with your changes on it!
I absolutely agree with you, atm My pro is printing amazingly well.
@@GoldenJaguar3D Just got mine working a couple days ago, new SKR2 board, stole my Ender 3's screen, new firmware calibrated, sensorless homing, proper BLTouch bed mesh leveling, I managed ot get a decen benchy out of it...I'm hesitant to call it a TronXY at this point tho, we likely put more effort into our printers than they did into its initial design lol
@@BlueJeebs well done buddy :), yes agreed i wouldn't call it tronxy at this point lol mine is till rock solid printing great.
i have convert my firmware in marlin... and i have stock machine version PRO...
what feedrate, accelleration and jerk do you use for print? my English is bad... sorry if u have tell this on video...
Thkyou for video nice work ;)
No worries I understood everything you said, I haven’t used marlin in months now, I use klipper firmware so I couldn’t tell you the value I used when I had marlin sorry 😞.
@@GoldenJaguar3D thkyou no problem ;)
I'm looking at the TRONXY printers and would like to have the links to your upgrades. The links provided are dead. Can you update? Great video! Thanks for the information!
Working on fixing the link
@@GoldenJaguar3D Thank you.
Another question... what is your opinion on the 3 point kinematic bed versus the standard design of the Tronxy x5sa? I'm trying to decide if it's better to start with the Tronxy x5sa 400 and upgrade or to just build from scratch. Any thoughts?
I will add this answer to my video today!
Here is a link to all my builds sorry bro! Not sure why they weren't working. Just look for Tronxy Build. www.amazon.com/shop/goldenjaguar392
@@GoldenJaguar3D Thank you very much! This will be very helpful.
i heard the heat bed wires on that are too small for the current you might want to change those.
I hope they adressed this, it´s simple to solve.
16 AWG wire (rated for max. 10A) the heatbed draws 13A and a max of 16A on "ignition". This is an old "Non-Pro" Version.
ruclips.net/video/Pq3qjdaRnuY/видео.html @4:00
Her is a burnt power supply 2 months after the Fan of the Power Supply didn´t work anymore, after 100 run hours.
I don´t know if the guy changed the faulty fan in this time, otherwise it is his fault too (he knew about the fan).
The other fans (Mainboard ..) are also not running smoothly.
ruclips.net/video/r4d_Hlv0FJc/видео.html
Ciao. Io ho una x5sa nuova quando stampa è molto lenta. Come faccio per aumentare la velocità? Impostata in cura a 120mm/s. Ma sicuramente va molto pie lenta
è necessario abilitare l'accelerazione in cura per aumentare la velocità di stampa
Great video Sir
Thank you!
Whoa, you have that tronxy cooking! Awesome petg prints. If I may ask, what are your retraction distance and speed setting with that setup? I'm still running a bowden and my retraction time are really stacking up.
Thank you, since I’m using direct drive my retraction are significantly lower I’m using .5mm with 50mm/s retraction speed, I’m also using a pheatus dragon hotend
@@GoldenJaguar3DThanks. I have been working with the stock firmware and hardware and got petg printing much better and quicker then stock but it is still not good enough. I been trying to get the bengine(www.thingiverse.com/thing:4575774) to print with petg but I get too much oozing. It prints perfectly on my cheapo monoprice mini. My last ditch effort before I start replacing things is to try a filament dryer. If that doesn't work then I will change out the hot end and go to marlin. I am avoiding klipper for now as I like having a screen. Keep up the videos, I really enjoy them.
I am planning to buy this tronxy 5sa pro , do you recommend ?
Yes I absolutely do recommend getting one it's prints amazing well and have a lot of potential for improvement.
@@GoldenJaguar3D after I buy , would you mind help me in improving it ? Also do you recommend buying pro or normal as you are suggesting we do the improvements
@@azzamody sure, get the pro if want to don’t want spend more money on linear rails, since the pro comes won’t linear guides which one step below linear linear rails personal I don’t see the difference in quality vs linear rails. So I would suggest getting the pro for minimal modding to improve print quality
@@GoldenJaguar3D but is important to check the "tension" setting on the rollers. Some are by factory setting to tight.
There are cases when people couldn´t put the roller assembly Plate onto the rail, and one reported rubbing the chromium off the rail ;)
Some wobbling ball bearings (1mm tilt) from the pulleys are also reported. 50% faulty 50% good in the same set.
The linear bearings of the Z-Axis rods are sometimes made of metal (like yours) and sometimes plastic ones which tend to break open.
Maybe they are all metal by now, but some people get old revisions laying around in the warehouses?
....
2 days ago i was shure this would be my first 3D Printer, now i consider building one from scratch by myself. Cost for basic kit + the needed Modding which has to be done, should compensate for the higher single part prices.
@@hectorpascale1013 yes you’re right, but keep Mind there are different model of the same size bed the x5sa and the x5sa-pro which what I have in the video most of what you’re describing is the x5sa which comes with v wheels and the plastic bearings that rides the z rod, the pro replaced those with linear guides and metal bearings for z, but is tronxy quality control is not the best at all hints why told the original op to get th pro version instead of the regular. Thank for the added information.
Hey, my x5sa with tmc2209s is loud on even slow movement, how is yours so quiet? I don't mean the fans, but the axis moving. I run an aftermarket board
I'm using a skr1.4 turbo mcu and tmc 2209s it could just be a combination of the firmware I'm using which is klipper and I'm also using stronger and decently silent steppers.
@@GoldenJaguar3D Which ones do you use? Random high Torque ones or brand steppers?
@@munzlp I used stepper online motors they really good. and pretty quite out the box
@@GoldenJaguar3D alright, I'll consider switching motors. Trianglelab and mellow Motors might also work, I'll look into them
when you upgraded to the bigtree tech turbo board, did you need to get any expansion board? the tronxy board has that expension board where you attach everything the fans, hotend, auto level etc.. Thanks
No actually I just ran all fresh wires with jst connector.
@@GoldenJaguar3D i've been getting a lot of layer shifting recently and i havent changed anything. after some research it seems the options are to change out the board or try to use closed loop steppers (which I can't do on the current tronxy board). do you know about closed loop stepper motors? I just found out about it, I hope this comes standard on new printers in the future. its pretty amazing.
@@hankb7725 yes I’m aware of closed stepper is kool but not needed I don’t get skipped steps ever, one because I’m using klipper firmware, I run all my stepper in spread cycle instead of stealth chop with 2209 stepper drivers, also I have 2x 92oz stepper on my x and y they are pretty beefy. I got off Amazon from a company called stepper online they make good motors
@@GoldenJaguar3D Thanks. I just ordered 2 stepper online motors for x and y. But i think the shifting can happen to any printer. My understanding is that if the printhead snags on the part somehow it can get thrown off. Or any kind of accidental hit to the printer or something like that can cause a shift. also the faster you print the more likely you are to lose steps. so I think the closed loop steppers can really allow you to printer much faster because they will correct any shifts. good information though man, I subscribed, I'm going to check out your other videos. I'm also not clear about what you did with the bearings for the Z or how that works exactly, I'll look into it.
@@hankb7725 awesome 👏🏾 yes layer shift I mainly cause by lack of torque, the more power you get stepper motors the more torque you gain but they can also get hot, just of the find the right balance hints why I went with beefy motors for x and y
I thought you were going to print ABS on the Tronxy from the video title...
BLTouch is wasted on such a small print bed. I use a Monoprice Select Mini as my dedicated ABS printer.
Trust me it’s not wasted at all for sake of consistency it’s works great though I it’s retired now
What’s the spool holder ur using
Its was a custom spool holder I found on thingy verse I can't remember the link though
hello sir ur facebook page is not working !!!? i want talk with you in privety about tronxy X5SA PRO if that possible ?
CAN YOU DO A VIDEO ON HOW TO INSTALL MARLIN ON TRONXY X5SA PRO 3D PRINTER
At the moment I only work with klipper firmware, however I do plan on revising marlin with custom build printer so, I'll do a video then.
Oh man, if you would cover upgrading the board :D
Yup, this and my Ender 5 Plus both were absolute nightmares out of the box. Would be awesome if you'd post more on the upgrade and what mods you have
managed to put a Hemera on mine....so far so good.
But I gotta disagree, BMG extruder is a biggest POS, it's an absolute nightmare to load filament in to and remove if there is a plug from a cold pull. Might be a different story but I have 1 on E5+ which is bowden still, I've come so close to putting the stock one back it's such a poor design to not allow you to manually feed filament and half the time it misses feeding it and bends the filament :p
Sorry to hear that man but I love my BMG , did you put a piece of ptfe tube between the Hotend and the extruder? Are using it in a direct drive format?
@@GoldenJaguar3D no was still bowden, which I believe is why I hate it, have to walk around to front of printer to hit feed and then walk back to make sure it fed which half the time it doesn't. If they made it so It could be fed manually then it would be awesome.
But it's all about the Biqu H2 now, stoked to get one of them after the Hemera has made such a huge difference, hopefully they have better mounting options than enderfanboy...I mean e3d
Now THIS is the video Ive been looking for!!! I'm just about to purchase an X5SA Pro, and looking to do nearly the exact same mods as you've done here!!!
Would you mind sharing the link for the file for the extruder bracket/mount, and the parts you used for the DD extruder please!?! Id like to set up exactly the way you have it now.
Im also going to be replacing the board to the SKR 1.4 turbo, and inspired by you going to be trying out Klipper.
Im kind of new to 3d printing so the more detail the better! If you'd prefer to send via email or something let me know and ill send you my address.
Thank you for your time and sharing your awesome printers!!!!
sure thing, this is the fanduct i'm using, www.thingiverse.com/spodesta/designs, you will need an ender 3 x carriage to mount this duct, I have video showing how to do this mod, get BMG extuder from amazon as well srk 1.4 turbo with tmc 2209 stepper drivers, I have a klipper tutorial on the channel you can use to help you install it, if you need more help you can alway DM through facebook messanger
what hotend and stl files are you using?
I’m using a pheatus dragon Hotend, I’ll linked you the files. www.thingiverse.com/thing:3241793
Could you mind to share about mods you did on your tronxy x5sa pro?
skr 1.4 turbo with TMC 2209 Stepper driver, BMG Clone Extuder for direct drive with dragon hotend, Bltouch clone, 50watt heater cartridge, Anti z wobble mod, it decouple the lead screw from the bed. Magnetics spring still sheet bed with pei, running klipper firmware.
@@GoldenJaguar3D for direct drive is it plug n play? Or still need to do some mods on the x gantry?
@@hudada3330 I'm using a an ender 3 x carriage on top of the tronxy carriage. check this video out that i made of the mod it explains a bit better, it's an super easy mod ruclips.net/video/QOGs1Fv_YaE/видео.html
@@GoldenJaguar3D thanks very useful, anyway if you replace your stock board it means mini box on side of x stepper motor no longer needed? Is that right?
If it right i need more cable from skr board direct to hotend and etc?
@@hudada3330 yea I don’t used the beak out broad instead I flip my housing vertical so my cable routing is short
none of your links work?????
yes you're right, fixed the two of 3 links still working getting the amazon links working.
Sorry about that man! I went in and fixed them but here is the link to our store. If there is something your not seeing let me know. www.amazon.com/shop/goldenjaguar392