Installing a proper burglar alarm - Texecom Premier Elite 64-W (KIT-0002)
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- Опубликовано: 9 сен 2024
- In this video I take a look at my new burglar alarm system which is based around the Texecom Premier Elite 64-W panel. We will take a look at the hardware that comes with the kit, look at how I've installed it all, take a look at the PC software side of things and discuss how easy I found it to set up. Note that I am a complete novice when it comes to alarm installation so don't take things I say or show in the video as an example of industry best practice!
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9:38, being an intruder alarm specialist, having the control unit in an accessible location is a must for servicing.
nothing worse than crawling into a cupboard that you have to yoga into.
i know your pain XD
as long as its not on the entry route
Agreed mate, especially us more 'mature' engineers ;)
Nothing worse than going into a nice house with white carpets and having to go into the loft (carrying ladders from the car roof) on a wet day! Because the house builder decided (or fitter) decided to fit the end station "out of the way" anyway, anyone in the trade knows telecom make food sensors but bad controls
Been in this industry for almost 20 years and in a residential property it is best to keep the panel hidden away. A panel on show is not a good install, lazy and unprofessional. When it comes to panel location a mains supply and phone line run will all come into play, this said at the end of us all talking bollox it will go where the customer wants.
Cameron, just wanted to say a big thank you for making this video! You inspired me to purchase the same kit + 1 extra PIR and set it up at home successfully. I got the Texecom Connect as well which is great and works with Wintex too. You saved me tonnes of money so thank you!!
I found this system a real challenge to set up but using the Texecom Tech Support a few times ensured I now have a fully working intruder system that includes the Texecom Connect and the Texecom App. The Texecom Tech Support people were excellent and responded within a few hours with answers that I could follow. You need to remember this system is aimed at professional installers so needs some knowledge, a lot of confidence and masses of determination.
Excellent and informative - thanks Cameron, as a Texecom et al installer, supporter of a variety of other systems and former network engineer, I note there are several contributors who are misinformed:
Most Texecom PIRs on the later wired systems I installed had the EOL resistors on jumpers giving a choice to the values.
Honeywell I think were fixed at 1k and maybe 10k?
The last Honeywell wireless system I saw had a solar charger on the bell box but the batteries on Texecom Oddyseys will last about 4 years in normal use, but if triggered regularly will be much shorter.
On a different note, one of our commercial clients had their bell box stolen in the early hours. Unknown to us they added a newspaper delivery cabinet immediately below where the bell box was installed - the highest accessible point in a single story building! The alarm was monitored by EMCS (East Midlands Central Station) who had a keyholder at the store within 15 minutes.
Thieves also broke into the same store by breaking into the adjacent unit, removing bricks from the wall and taking an angle grinder to the back of the cigarette store cabinet.
If thieves are determined they will get in - the moral of the story is: make your place a bit harder than your neighbours!
I installed the same alarm kit 6 years ago and have just changed the lithium AA batteries in the Keypad & Outside alarm box.
Put the alarm into engineer mode and just swap out the batteries without any problems.
You can change the Pir batteries also while in the same mode.
So far i have changed the enry/ exit button battery and main 12v battery along with the pir batteries , etc over the last 6 years.
A Excellent System thanks again Cameron for all your help and a big thanks on your excellent informative video 👍
I worked for Texecom for many years since they only made PIRs. I was also the only tester for their first panel. I watched the company grow from around 15 employees to many
I worked with menvier before they created texecom!
Hi, are all the Premier Elite range from texecom wireless. I'm looking at getting a
Texecom Premier Elite 24 Wired Burglar Alarm Control Panel. Does this allow wireless units to be added as well?
Do you need the brackets to mount into corners or walls?
@@ollietaheri7186 Texecom was a small company in Manchester in the early 90s, created by 2/3 people. Menvier wasn't a thing
Texecom has become so unreliable with silly issues throughout.
Wow, my grandad has this system in his house and it's nice to see how it works. I found the Ricochet menu on Wintex quite amusing how many animations it has, but at least its feature rich.
Another thing you could use the RFID tags for is if you are letting someone house sit or watch over pets but don't want to give them the code. You can register the tag for the time they are watching over the house and/or pets and then unregister it when it is over.
Or since he has the app, he can add a user with code the delete it via the app
You could also add another user to the panel with its own code and disable or delete it once they’re done.
Thanks for this video, I bought a house with a 48-W installed and thanks to this I have managed to reprogram it and add extra sensors to it!
Using the Arduino as a serial interface is ingenious - love it!
Dude your videos are so fascinating and i love your new flat too.
Hello Cameron, your video certainly sold Texecom to me and I purchased a unit. I was trying to put a note of caution that it is very complex piece of kit and perhaps not suitable for a keen amateur like myself. You are obviously good at technical stuff and perhaps I'm not. Anyway it remains a very useful video. Thanks
Little tip with the texecom wireless equipment that I can see you haven't done on this video, the jumper that you mentioned that was showing up as a tamper when it wasn't removed is what you would use to mesh the wireless devices together, all devices should talk to eachother even if the signal is strange back to the panel, in order to to this leave that jumper on for a good 30 minutes once all devices are learnt into the system.
You can also check signal strength in engineer utilities if you do not have the software, however make sure your wireless keypad if using one has a path straight back to the panel and is not bouncing off any devices as it will slow the system down and will never work correctly,
You can also put a 8xpw or 32xpw into learn mode in the same way just by removing the lid, this is a good tip if signal are low in a larger building, hope this helps anyone in trouble, (great video)
Thank you for the tip!
Setting a zone as a guard access allows the user once the front door has been opened allows that area to be an entry route so if it sees movement it wont go off however if the front door has not been opened and it sees movement it will go off immediately. Also guard access zones change to a entry route on a part set to start the count down timer. (For instance a night set)
Also programming is a lot easier with a laptop.
Thank you Cameron. What an excellent video. I'll go ahead and get one of these now, and Texecom will have you to thank for doing their selling job for them!
Alarm engineer here. I install these regularly and would recommend also installing a Smartcom device to enable you to arm and disarm the system via the smartphone.
Cuebix does the smartcom device just plug in to the alarm panel?
@@leighireson2273 Yes into the COM ports.
Visonic System is £200. However instructions are a bit confusing. Texecoms range of systems are second to none, great video!!
Great video, I’m a few years late to the party though. I was winning the bid on the Honeywell system on eBay, saw your other video and swiftly retracted my bid. I ordered the same system you recommended here, thanks!
you have really great speech skills, much better than many England TV pop starts - sometimes which accent is hardly to understand (we all have get used to US English accents and words sounds than UK one, which quite isolated with its TV & cinema content)
I clicked this video to hear you try and say "burglar alarm"... love it!
48:03 looks like an Ubiquity style of their devices being down, for example, direct connect devices are shown as bubbles around the main unit and bubbles branching off the sub unit, makes it easier with troubleshooting and a nice visual indication
Only 2 things I'd have done differently - I'd have mounted the door sensor high up so I didn't kick it as well as putting the magnet on the frame instead, And its bad practise to point PIR's at glass as it can make them false trigger, Beyond that the Texecom was an excellent choice (I'm using the 48 elite), You can use Wintex, Configure and even set/unset using an app if you get the Network card for it.
I have a two bed apartment myself and I'm considering an alarm system myself but I'm also looking at a Nest+Yale keypad lock for the front door as well.
The texecom would be a perfect system for your apartment
Demo of setting unsetting/alarm going off? Great video!
the 12v battery is the same battery that the NBN FTTP battery backup unit uses, it will possibly last you approx 2 years before it needs to be changed.
I do know this because, I have used 2 of them and they both died in 2 years time each.
You're welcome
Happy Fox Even Yuasa batteries should be replaced at 1-2 year intervals
SDG, I wish they would tell the end users of this product, because they installed millions of them and most of them range from the ages of 16.5-95 years old... actually all the people of Australia.
There was no documentation about it, so a bit of transparency from the supplier would have been nice. Just glad I bribed the installer with something on the side for an extra battery, something he needed for something I needed.
Happy Fox I
realy batterys should be change when trouble is anouced in alarm system or after 3-5 years. i experienced batteries that lasted 7-9 years
You don't jumper zones, that's what your resistors are for. Modern alarms have an eol (end of line) resistor and an alarm resistor. Your manual will tell you what they are. 2k2 eol 4k7 alarm is very common. It's good practice to fit end of lines even in unused zones.
That explains why jumpering them didn't work, will find the info in the manual and fit the resistors!
Yeah the eol are 2k2 and the alarm resistsors are 4k7. From the looks of the manual each zone has its own tamper circuit so each zone has 2 alarm terminals and 2 tamper terminals - the 2k2 resistor will go across the outer 2 terminals. I usually leave the alarm resistors in the panel but if you can use them for other projects then there's no harm, they're just standard resistors so if you ever decided to use a zone for anything you can just buy a bag of 4k7 resistors. FYI most proper detectors and door contacts (wired style) have resistors built in (you select them either by cutting links or by using dil switches/jumpers) so if you ever did buy a few wired devices you'd probably never need the resistors anyway.
You'll know if you've put the eol in properly because if you program the zone as a guard zone it won't show tamper. Some panels will also still let you view the zone status or resistance even if the zone is set to unused.
Also ref my other comment about exit/entry zones, zone 9 was confusing me. I didn't realise that all your wireless devices had to be assigned to a zone (most systems just have keypads as keypads. They might have on board zones but that's a different thing).
Thanks, that makes sense! I'll stick those resistors in at some point (probably over the weekend) - Need to take care to do stuff like this in the middle of the day, don't think my neighbours would be particularly pleased if I tried fiddling with the panel late at night and end up setting the siren off!
unlike those old abacus systems which use some ridiculous values i think of 8k1 and 3k9, who's stupid idea was that!
looks a cool bit of kit will definitly be buying texecom gear to alarm in my new house :)
Great Video... its been a few years since I set one of these up so a great refresher for me. Nice work mate
The high voltage label is because of the capacitors supplying the strobe that hold their charge after all power has been removed
Great video really enjoyed how in-depth it went 👏
just get a ring alarm system, I've had one for 5 years and it has been keeping my house as safe as a full security bank.
Thanks for this video. Really informative and helpful!
Great Video, really good information, thanks for sharing!!!
I came here to hear you say burglar
As always great information thanks ✌️
I have the additional IP Module installed on my Texecom system, so that I can set/unset the alarm remotely via the Texecom app on my phone and also check logs etc.
Great video I have used the higher model ones and worked perfectly. The IP modules are worth getting too as you can set the alarm remotely and monitor it. It's also encrypted with aes so secure. You can also use digital pins to hook to Arduino and use that to send SMS or anything you code it to do worth a look.
I Got the official usb lead£35 and the install CD ( texecom no longer include the Cd in The Box ) now its working at last ( Fingers Crossed )
Also found out that make sure that if your using Windows 7 that: Microsoft Visual C++ 2010 SP1 Redistributable Package (x86) is installed
On the CD it has Wintex ( Latest Wintex program on texecom website ) and the drivers for the USB-Com cable which you will need.
Thanks Again to you : Cameron : Your utube Video Really helped me understand the system :)
Great video really helped me out. Cheers!
868 mhz jammer works a treat on these you get over 5 minutes sometimes
man, that manual looks very professional. I am a new diy starter. I don't know whether i can do it smoothly. i wanted to buy that honeywell system before i saw your review. now i have changed my mind now.
I need a solid alarm system myself. I live in a decent area and until recently, burglaries have been extremely rare... but since our police force is largely non existent these days, it’s becoming a bigger issue. I have expensive HIFI, Mac computers, iPads etc in the house, I’m getting nervous about leaving the house unattended for any amount of time.
The “high voltage” thing inside the bell box is for the strobe light.
It's for the piezoelectric element on these sounders. The strobe is just a flashing LED
Great review and very informative 👍
Really clear video thanks, I wouldnt sweat about tamper protection inside your house because if the alarm system has done its job the intruder would be detected before the PIR unit is ripped off the wall, internal tamper protection is more for commercial premises where the public has access, external tamper protection though is always a good thing particularly on the bell box and main panel, If I were installing one of these I would use the wired connections where possible and only use wireless if absolutely necessary also the idea of having to change batteries every 3 years is a pain for a lot of folks, my wired alarm system I put in 20 years ago has been 100% reliable, prevented 1 attempted burglary recently, with the only maintenance being the main panel and siren backup batteries being replaced once, Im a radio ham as well so I would have a worry about the rejection of this system when I am running 100 watts in the UHF band, thanks for the video though, this looks nice a nice system however if folks can and the wiring can be hidden well enough I would go with a wired system every time.
I am getting an installer to install a texecom alarm in our house and I dont want the maintenance contract but they are saying that i can only use the app if I go through them?? I thought i could just go directly to Texecom? and use texecom app?
I can't see why you couldn't assuming they are talking about the SmartCom/Texecom Connect App. I haven't used it much myself however I helped a friend install an off-the-shelf Texecom system using a SmartCom and he's been using the app without any issue.
I work at a school and we use tokens for the fire aspect and we have 8 schools. Our alarm company have there own covers that are different shapes and the whole thing is blue
Great video, the rise of tags for alarms goes back to business premises such as retail. Employees would always be forgetting codes and causing too many false alerts.
Very well explained. Excellent job
Great video. You've inspired me. First time I've used an affiliate link to buy from Amazon. Hope you get a kickback!
20:57, the high voltage area is the strobe circuit I believe.
Correct, voltage is pulled up through resistance and is around 45vdc will hurt similar to a camera flash, if you are a person of age you may have done in school what I did, remove the flash and expose the wires on a desposible camera and make a DIY tazer, all fun and games
Hello. Thr alarm keeps going off and the panel states rear temper. I think it is the battery on the door sensor. Would that make sense? Thanks
The dual technology microwave PIRs are for anti-cloaking, meaning that an intruder wouldn’t be able to fool the system by using an umbrella or other similar object.
You also don’t need to use the resistors you can set the resistance in the settings on the zone
Much easier to use the part set or part 1/2/3 omit rather than the separate area zones. Also sets much quieter (when option enabled)
If you need any help send me a message bro, I'm an alarm/CCTV installer and use Texecom gear all the time!
Sam Ganslandt Me too! Haha done this waaaayyy too many times, that expander jumper always gets me, always forget that when finished setting up haahah
james hough Old commissioning mode, done that a few times haha!
Whete about are u based
Hi mate got any tips on the wireless keypad 2 hours and no joy tried different address plug in and out but nothing ?
hardened galaxy man myself.
26:32 FOR SETUP
Texecom is British brand all parts are made in uK. Support team in UK.
Very good video. Thanks!
The high voltage is from the piezo driving circuit.
Excellent instruction thank you so much!
Just bought my Texecom system, and I am fully with you on the terms " stupid galaxy system" I hate it.
Those RFID fobs are clonable also. I use them at work and use NFCtagreader to replay my actual clock-in fob. They have a string, a hex little endian and hex big endian code on them and are not encrypted.
if I were texecom I would include a business card sized information saying "manual can be downloaded from here:
Additional software here:
If you need any more help, please call 0800 *****"
Saves on the printing costs and the environment, also, adding a recycle symbol helps too
Why? Manuals may seem complicated to start out with, PDF's can be updated and reuploaded and downloaded for no cost to consumer.
Software can become outdated... let's say 0-day outdated if the software ships with auto update, then it defeats the purpose of shipping with outdated software to begin with... plus people have flash drives.
and an 0800 number, or whatever freecall number for the market for customer service, because sometimes we all need a bit of help, and 300 pounds is not something I would like to slam on the desk and expect to get no help with when I'm not used to the product.
please call 0800 1111
It saves some of the people the hassle of printing a PDF of it because i know a lot of people that would print it out and use it that way. it's worth the extra cost.
+YosefuJoe445 I understand,but with manuals they do tend to get updated and changed, of course you can print it out
this information is usually for people with high school education... that's the "so what" part
they do have PDF files on their website, and if you just google something along the lines of "Texecom premier/premier elite/veritas (model) installation guide/user manual" then you'll find them
hope i helped!
You can purchase a box called a SmartCom that will allow you to control the system with your phone.
If you still use this alarm, could you make a video how to change the batteries? Especially the keypad and the siren worries me 😅
Hi - great video! Although Im coming way late, I have a question or 2. 1). I have a few years ago installed Texecom hard wired alarms for friends and family. Will I find the general terminology and configuration similar? 2). I use mac and don't have a pc. Does the software support mac? and 3). Id really rather just use the keypad to configure as my install will be pretty basic. Does the supplied manual take you through this process or just focus on the software approach? Thanks for a great video!
Decent alarm system, i would have chosen Paradox but thats just my personal preference. Still way better than that pos Honeywell toy.
13:18 I imagine that if security companies installing them were smart enough, they would survey the home they were installing at with the supervision of the owners, so they would know which parts to order (or pull from a warehouse/stockroom), including different kinds of sensors, but would probably end up using the same kind of siren cover, or maybe they might use different styles depending on the house, and use a (desktop OS based) tablet to not only annotate floor plans and photos, but also configure the system once installed.
16:30 Meanwhile, the consumer DIY systems tend to only offer the sensors in white.
With the compatibility with both wired and wireless sensors, I imagine some clients of security companies would want to replace older wired systems while keeping the older sensors (that would've been installed in the house when it was built or renovated) if they were on a budget.
26:36 I see that sticker on the inner cover. I imagine there are different stickers that could be ordered for different languages, presumably depending on the UI language the company sets the keypad display to use.
40:59 I'm going to assume that the systems can be remotely managed by the security company, so for certain issues, a customer could call up the company and have someone remotely connect in to fix certain issues.
Resistor bag. If using wired detectors fitting these enables the control electronics to identify which detector has tripped the anti-tamper function. Simpler systems have all the anti-tamper switches on one series connected circuit and it can be difficult to locate an anti-tamper fault. They fit at the detector. See install guide for details - you need the two pole variant which uses two resistors, a 2.2k and a 4.7k. You can identify resistor values by the colour coding. See Google! BobUK
Nice job on the video.
Hi Cameron, great video!! I'm about to buy and install the same kit for my Dad. I was just wondering if you had to state it was a self install when you told your home insurance company you'd installed it? My Dad is obsessed by policy details. LOL!
My insurer states that an alarm has to be installed by an NSI or SSAIB approved installer so I simply didn't list it at all. The savings it would give me on the policy weren't worth the risk of them not paying out in the event of a claim.
Are you still happy with this system 4 years on? Thanks for the great video!
Absolutely, it's been really good. Think the only issue I had was that the door contact battery failed without a low battery warning causing the system to go into fault until I replaced the battery (the PIRs all warned about their low batteries) but that's literally the only issue I've had.
@@camerongray1515 When it went into fault, it didn't sound the alarm did it? Thanks for the reply!
Nah, the keypad and panel just beeped periodically, ended up disabling the zone for the door contact to keep it quiet until I could replace the battery
Great video, I think I will be going for that system myself. Were you able to link the siren to the system before mounting it outside? I assume if it’s installation mode the tamper protect won’t trigger.
Im finding it hard to set up zones. All I have in my app is recipes. Even on the actual keypad its hard also
Thank You....
Why do alarms in the UK go into a full alarm if tampered with? Most systems that I’ve seen just start beeping if tampered with.
35:50 NOOOO! WHYY!!! thats the worst place you could have put it! servicing will be incredibly hard now!
Hi , great video , I am about to install the 64-w , my first texecom install , Im a diyer. The instructions are ok but I have a few questions if you can help. When I first power do I already have the keypad wireless keypad connected , along with the smart com. Or do I first power up and learn all ricochet devices ( pirs door sensor etc) and then do the wireless controller and smart com ? If these are later , do i connect up when the main unit is powered up battery or battery and mains ( the keypad to engineers port and the smart com to com1 and com2 ). The instructions are pretty clear , what's not is what order and when you should do stuff. Also , when / do i even need to disconnect the commissioning jumper ?
I powered mine up with the Keypad connected with the cable beforehand, I then learned all of the ricochet devices followed by learning the keypad allowing me to use it wirelessly. I set the siren up last to ensure that I was comfortable that the system wasn't randomly going to go off, I even used the system without the siren for around a week to be sure that I wasn't getting any false alarms. I removed the commissioning jumper early on as with this in place it would throw tamper alerts with the zone expander. I've never used the SmartCom so don't really know how that works unfortunately although I'd be inclined to get everything else set up and working, then add it in later.
Hi , thanks for responding.thats a great re the siren set up at a later date.Did you set up the siren on the install and somehow turn it off for the initial week or connect it later?
I just connected it later on.
Great , its just getting the right order. I will mount and connect up the control panel , connect the wireless keypad to engineers socket , go through the powering up procedure , learn the ricochet devices , followed by the keypad , let it mesh and then install the sounder after a weeks trial.
how've you liked this system over the year?
I'm actually looking into a system now but it seems getting one of these in the US is a bit trickier.
Still working great and since then I've fitted a wired Texecom system to a friend's property which was also excellent. That said, I'm not sure if they officially sell these in the US, if not it may be safer to avoid it so you don't have issues with the availability of parts. There may also be country specific regulations around stuff like sounder cutoff time.etc which may not be matched by a system aimed at a different market, I'm not sure about this one in your case but worth double checking.
Afternoon Cameron, did you see the TEXECOM CEL-0001 Texecom Connect SmartCom box available to remotely manage the system ? I'll be going for the same as you with the KIT-0002 and came across this additional bit of kit which may be of interest to you.
I think I'll just hold out for the ring smart alarm.
good investment modern day bruglers will apreciate your choice in a vulnerable iot based security system
Your door contact should be your entry /exit. Any pirs between the door and the keypad should be guard /access.
Strange terminology, usually your exit is just called an exit or final exit and your entry route will be called entry route.
If you've a pir set as an entry /exit and the panel set to final exit set then if you trigger the pir on your way out and then the zone closes again the system will set even before you open the door. Your actual door should be the final exit so that the system will only set when the door closes. The only time you'd really have a pir as a final zone is if you've no door contact.
PS, you did a great job setting that all up as a complete novice, I've seen professionally installed systems that are no where near as good.
Thanks! That makes a lot of sense, thankfully there is no way into the hall apart from through the front door so there isn't a PIR in there, just the door contact.
Cameron Gray sorry, I noticed that you had 2 entry exit zones but on looking again I saw that the first one was your keypad. Strange that it has it's own zone, it must have an on board input you can wire into. Have the gym in half an hour but I must see if I can get the manual tonight to see what that's all about. Plenty of keypads have on board zones but it doesn't make much sense for a wireless one since there'd be no 12v supply to power anything, unless it's intended for a door contact. If so it must be pre fitted with an eol (either that or it's a simple open /closed circuit and it's strapped out - most systems will let you mix and match old style "closed alarm circuit with separate tamper circuit" with new style "2 wires with resistors to monitor tamper/alarm" devices)
Looks a decent system, I've only ever worked on texecom because there was one in my house when I bought it but it was a basic veritas r8.
We mainly deal with honeywell (galaxy, one of the best panels on the market believe it or not!), Menvier, Scantronic
Lighting and white balance is generally better in this video.
Yeah, I've finally figured out the colour balance controls in my video editor! :P. Will probably upgrade to better bulbs once I have the budget.
Why have u installed the door contact so low.... you can also log in and not have beginner time out as I said all in settings
HI i am curious to know what issues you had with Honeywell as i have one of these alarm systems in my house. No problems installing and working well the only down side i can see is changing the batteries at 69 not a good idea to climb ladders. So i will look into this one.
Thank you.
Would youconsider adding a texecom connect module in teh uture anddoing a video?
I suspect that the IR detectors batteries will need replacing every now and again.
What is the pinout for the RS232 comms interface. Rx, Tx, Gnd and +ve supply. Physically which pin is which
Did you remove the jumper for commission completely or move it over to the left. Ive just finished installing my alarm and im having the same zone expander tamper issue
Does the ready light need to be on to use it? The engineer said it didn't matter but in the manual it says that it needs to be on before I can set it. Can anyone help?
I purcased the siren cover but they gave me the wrong thing worth £48 I will have to buy new one
How long did it take to install?
How long does the battery last in the pir, lcd and siren in this setup? Do any of you pir relay the signal from the control unit to other pir I am trying to work out if I should get a wired or wireless system as I have 3 floor in my house...
Cameron after watching your channel, purchased and installed Premier Elite 48. Fitted Smartcom module with wired Ethernet. Can't for the life of me get smartcom connect to connect and generate app code. Did manage to setup ComIp and connect locally. Can make connection locally and send and receive config. Just wondering if anyone has managed to solve similar problem. Have read through Texecom Forum with no success. Though did help me to setup ComIp.
Hi Cameron,
Great video and after watching it I am seriously thinking of giving this a go and install it myself.
Quick question:
Does the Elite range have a bult-in GSM module so I can self monitor the system in case the alarm goes off?
I know there's the SmartCom module you can purchase but ideally I would like to have a backup alerting system should one fail?
Thanks for your time
I'm not Cameron, but the elite range does have a GSM communicator (comgsm module) that you can install alongside the smartcom, but it is a separate module, it is sold separately, and does not fit inside the control panel. If your internet goes down it can be used to signal alongside the smartcom.
@@mrlastos888 Thanks for your reply. After searching around the internet I came across the GSM module. In the end I decided to first buy the system, get it up and running and in the future maybe upgrade to the GSM module. Regards
Hi Cameron, for some reason my panel has recognised the PIR's, however when arming the system (Full) they are not setting off the system, you had any of these issues? They are recognised as PIR in the settings.
Make sure you have the zone types set correctly. From memory (and my memory is dreadful so may be wrong) but setting the zone for the PIR to "Guard" means that it'll set the alarm off immediately if it detects motion, setting it to "Entry/Exit" means that the PIR will start the countdown timer to disarm if it detects motion and setting it to "Guard Access" will set the alarm off immediately unless the alarm is already doing its countdown timer to disarm. You'd likely want them all set to "Guard" unless you're liable to walk past them while disarming the system in which case you'd want it set to "Guard Access".
Thanks for a great video Cameron, received my texecom kit today no bell as i'll add that at a later date when i'm happy all is well got extra sensors and the connect/smart com box and i'm going to have a go at fitting it tomorrow.
I'll let you know how i get on as a complete beginner.
Just one thing do you think it would be ok to install the main panel in the airing cupboard?
Thanks! The panel has an operating temperature range of -10c to 40c so you'd need to be careful to make sure the cupboard stays within that to be on the safe side, especially with the battery in there! Possibly worth picking another location if possible.
@@camerongray1515 Thanks for the info
V4 changes is the firmware version
Hi. How does this connect to the mains? Does it use a standard 3 pin plug? And is is supploed in the kit?
It simply has screw terminals inside for you to connect your own connection into, it needs a mains supply protected by a 3a fuse, ideally through an FCU, a plug would technically work but would be pretty bad practice. If in doubt, please consult a professional installer
Thanks for your advice. So if i dont have an FCU, I should get one installed by electrician in order to power up device, i guess.
Yeah, I'd probably get the panel mounted ready for the electrician, I'd like to think they'll connect the panel up to the FCU for you as well. Just make sure that you swap the fuse in the FCU for a 3a one as they normally come with 13a ones preinstalled.