hi bought an Optimate 3 battery conditioner from Probike Ltd in Northanmton with additional cabling to do this very thing - my local Citroen garage are getting it up on a ramp to effect on the 21st... your link has now been sent to their service dept who have been very helpful... I keep all my vehicles on Optimates - bikes and cars - use solar Optimate for the cars and never have failed batteries ... its the desulphating and conditioning that is so good... with four vehicles I cannot drive all of them all of the time and its peace of mind. 1250 BMW GS is hooked up 24/7 - thanks for showing us the route in the last minute of the vid. Bill Kerr in Sussex
Interesting, I didn't know about the Solar Optimate, I have a 'retro' car that sits a lot - this might be a better solution than a new battery every couple of years.
Well done, I use something similar for my classic MGB, the batteries are under the floor behind he seats, I use a Cetk battery conditioner with a battery terminal plug in connector made by Cetk.
Very practical arrangement with the Anderson connectors, I initially wondered why you'd gone for a high Amp plug. You could probably come up with an isolator relay arrangement to disconnect it while charging the traction batteries but it may be more faff than it's worth if you use it frequently.
If I find my battery charger sitting on the driver's seat I should remember not to plug in the 48V charger or turn on the ignition. I don't think the battery tender will get much use but it is always handy to have the option.
I’m going to fit a flexi solar panel to the interior frame that’s the size of the glass roof panel, I will secure so it can be pulled back and forward like a sun shade, connected to me allpowers generator so and I run many different ancillary items
I am very worried about all the exposed battery and chassis terminals and corrotion from road salt during winter. Realizing thers a lot of space in the rear. I think it would be interesting to fit an extra 12V battery to run axillary cabin heater. I'm courious about charging traction battery in the winter. I heard something about not charging if battery i colder than -5 °C.
Have a look at my latest video on rustproofing. I have coated the exposed terminals with Lanoguard. Chassis has also been rustproofed inside & outside of the steel box sections. I do think that a 12V 100Ah LIFEPO4 auxiliary battery would be useful to run a higher powered heater and possibly a heat pad for the traction battery. You are correct about the -5°C charging limitation (See the User's Manual).
@@DougsShed I think-5 °C cam be a challenge. Looking at the last 12 months, we have 4-5 months where it's expected to occasionally be colder than that. I have three worries about the Ami: - cold battery charging - defogging windows (and to some extent cabin heating) - tethered schuko (I'd prefer Type2 socket, for multiple reasons) The first two are significant, and needs to be delt with, either disprove or resolve. The third is more of annoying than a problem, (except at a low powerd 6A = 1.4 kW Type2 station)
@@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 The Ami comes with a Schuko tethered plug on the car and is supplied with a Type2 adaptor which attaches to the car's Schuko plug. This adapter is used to plug into a public AC charging station. The adaptor has two switches which you manually press (A) to signal that the Type2 plug is connected to the charge station and (B) to signal that the car is ready to accept charge. The Ami does not accept rapid charging. I did think about using a battery powered hot air gun to clear condensation/ice from the screen (during short trips).
@@DougsShed yes, I'm aware of the Metron Type2 adapter supplied with Ami in UK. But the adapter is just a bad workarround to a problem that shouldn't exist with a new EV. - The switches are required for functionality, however I think they should be possible to lock with a key (or key switch) too. - If you connect to a charging station with load sharing/balance, it might send a sinal to the car to not charge faster than 6 A (1.4 kW), trying to change Ami at 2 kW, will probably cause station to shut off, possibly affect others, at worst break something. - The tethered cable in the door frame is not an attractive solution to handle while it's raining, you spend more time with open door causing mor rain to enter the cabin, and before departure you spend time putting the cable into the small hole, to close the door, whil getting soaked, before entering the car to worry about windows fogging up from all the moisture you brought on you clothes. - it is against electoral code (in Norway) to install schuko intended for EV charging, - some chargepoints have tethered Type2, they are incompatible with the normal Type2 adapter. If Citroën doesn't switch to Type2 socket before I possibly order an Ami, I will look into options to DIY install a Type2 input socket, and bring a standard Type2 cable. Even if it doesn't solve the power control issue above, the other issues gets solved.
When the 48v main lithium battery is charging, so I take it the 12v does not get a charge? Is there 12v only charged when the ignition is on and therefore always topping up from the 48v battery and never the factory installed mains? I guess if heater used abs 12v low then the range on a full charge is decreased due to this 12v being charged even if the fan heater is not used on that journey? Thank you for sharing
The 12volt battery also charges whilst the 48v battery is on the mains charger. However, if the 12V battery is too low the car will not connect to the charger or initiate the 'ignition' via the key. I tend not to worry about range, on my normal short journeys, however the biggest problem is power limiting on hills. The power limit can kick in depending on ambient temperature, charge level, steepness and duration of hills. When power limited, I have noticed a very slight increase in performance if I turn off the screen heater.
What's the reason for adding the Anderson connector? Does the Ami not "maintain" the 12 V battery? Most other EVs I know of have features to maintain the 12 V battery even when they are not being charged.
Apparently the Ami only maintains the 12Volt battery when the ignition is switched on. Therefore the 12 volt battery can run flat if you leave the vehicle switched off for extended periods. They recommend disconnecting the 12 volt battery if you leave the car for a couple of weeks.
The battery tender leads are only to quickly access the 12 volt battery if it ever runs flat (from long term storage). It is not necessary for everyday running of the Ami. I do however run a totally separate 12 volt battery system to power accessories such as an additional electric fan heater.
Hi Doug, I've read the manual and you have confirmed in the statement above that the battery tender should be disconnected before connecting the onboard 48v charging . So i'm assuming that everytime you want to connect your charger whether in charger or tender mode you still need to remove bumper to disconnect 48v internal charge cable to the battery? Or is there something I'm missing?
I don't envisage having to connect my battery tender unless the vehicle has been left for a long time and the on-board 12v battery is too low to actuate the Ami's systems (which does happen).
Similarly going for Wax oiling the underbody and having vulnerable electrical connections visible on the underside better protected from the elements - a necessary investment in time and money - peace of mind...
hi bought an Optimate 3 battery conditioner from Probike Ltd in Northanmton with additional cabling to do this very thing - my local Citroen garage are getting it up on a ramp to effect on the 21st... your link has now been sent to their service dept who have been very helpful... I keep all my vehicles on Optimates - bikes and cars - use solar Optimate for the cars and never have failed batteries ... its the desulphating and conditioning that is so good... with four vehicles I cannot drive all of them all of the time and its peace of mind. 1250 BMW GS is hooked up 24/7 - thanks for showing us the route in the last minute of the vid. Bill Kerr in Sussex
Interesting, I didn't know about the Solar Optimate, I have a 'retro' car that sits a lot - this might be a better solution than a new battery every couple of years.
Good job on installing the charging cables to the 12 volt battery. That will really be handy to keep it fully toped off. Cheers Doug
Hi Lloyd, hopefully I will never need to top up the 12 volt system (so long as I use the car regularly).
Well done, I use something similar for my classic MGB, the batteries are under the floor behind he seats, I use a Cetk battery conditioner with a battery terminal plug in connector made by Cetk.
Very practical arrangement with the Anderson connectors, I initially wondered why you'd gone for a high Amp plug. You could probably come up with an isolator relay arrangement to disconnect it while charging the traction batteries but it may be more faff than it's worth if you use it frequently.
If I find my battery charger sitting on the driver's seat I should remember not to plug in the 48V charger or turn on the ignition. I don't think the battery tender will get much use but it is always handy to have the option.
@@DougsShed Very true. A little surprised they used a flooded battery for the 12V circuits rather than an LI, maybe a simple cost issue.
After your cold weather test, I did wonder if that was an influence for a flooded battery selection.
@@niallsommerville9941 Quite possibly.
I’m going to fit a flexi solar panel to the interior frame that’s the size of the glass roof panel, I will secure so it can be pulled back and forward like a sun shade, connected to me allpowers generator so and I run many different ancillary items
Useful for running accessories
I am very worried about all the exposed battery and chassis terminals and corrotion from road salt during winter.
Realizing thers a lot of space in the rear. I think it would be interesting to fit an extra 12V battery to run axillary cabin heater.
I'm courious about charging traction battery in the winter. I heard something about not charging if battery i colder than -5 °C.
Have a look at my latest video on rustproofing. I have coated the exposed terminals with Lanoguard. Chassis has also been rustproofed inside & outside of the steel box sections.
I do think that a 12V 100Ah LIFEPO4 auxiliary battery would be useful to run a higher powered heater and possibly a heat pad for the traction battery. You are correct about the -5°C charging limitation (See the User's Manual).
@@DougsShed I think-5 °C cam be a challenge. Looking at the last 12 months, we have 4-5 months where it's expected to occasionally be colder than that.
I have three worries about the Ami:
- cold battery charging
- defogging windows (and to some extent cabin heating)
- tethered schuko (I'd prefer Type2 socket, for multiple reasons)
The first two are significant, and needs to be delt with, either disprove or resolve.
The third is more of annoying than a problem, (except at a low powerd 6A = 1.4 kW Type2 station)
@@thorbjrnhellehaven5766 The Ami comes with a Schuko tethered plug on the car and is supplied with a Type2 adaptor which attaches to the car's Schuko plug. This adapter is used to plug into a public AC charging station. The adaptor has two switches which you manually press (A) to signal that the Type2 plug is connected to the charge station and (B) to signal that the car is ready to accept charge. The Ami does not accept rapid charging.
I did think about using a battery powered hot air gun to clear condensation/ice from the screen (during short trips).
@@DougsShed yes, I'm aware of the Metron Type2 adapter supplied with Ami in UK. But the adapter is just a bad workarround to a problem that shouldn't exist with a new EV.
- The switches are required for functionality, however I think they should be possible to lock with a key (or key switch) too.
- If you connect to a charging station with load sharing/balance, it might send a sinal to the car to not charge faster than 6 A (1.4 kW), trying to change Ami at 2 kW, will probably cause station to shut off, possibly affect others, at worst break something.
- The tethered cable in the door frame is not an attractive solution to handle while it's raining, you spend more time with open door causing mor rain to enter the cabin, and before departure you spend time putting the cable into the small hole, to close the door, whil getting soaked, before entering the car to worry about windows fogging up from all the moisture you brought on you clothes.
- it is against electoral code (in Norway) to install schuko intended for EV charging,
- some chargepoints have tethered Type2, they are incompatible with the normal Type2 adapter.
If Citroën doesn't switch to Type2 socket before I possibly order an Ami, I will look into options to DIY install a Type2 input socket, and bring a standard Type2 cable. Even if it doesn't solve the power control issue above, the other issues gets solved.
My use case means I will probably be using and charging the ami daily so this probably won’t be useful to me?
Maybe in the depth of winter I won't be using the Ami on a regular basis.
When the 48v main lithium battery is charging, so I take it the 12v does not get a charge?
Is there 12v only charged when the ignition is on and therefore always topping up from the 48v battery and never the factory installed mains?
I guess if heater used abs 12v low then the range on a full charge is decreased due to this 12v being charged even if the fan heater is not used on that journey?
Thank you for sharing
The 12volt battery also charges whilst the 48v battery is on the mains charger.
However, if the 12V battery is too low the car will not connect to the charger or initiate the 'ignition' via the key.
I tend not to worry about range, on my normal short journeys, however the biggest problem is power limiting on hills. The power limit can kick in depending on ambient temperature, charge level, steepness and duration of hills.
When power limited, I have noticed a very slight increase in performance if I turn off the screen heater.
What's the reason for adding the Anderson connector? Does the Ami not "maintain" the 12 V battery? Most other EVs I know of have features to maintain the 12 V battery even when they are not being charged.
Apparently the Ami only maintains the 12Volt battery when the ignition is switched on. Therefore the 12 volt battery can run flat if you leave the vehicle switched off for extended periods. They recommend disconnecting the 12 volt battery if you leave the car for a couple of weeks.
What is the reason for this ? I’ve ordered a brand new Ami for may 2023 but not sure what this extra battery does . Thanks in advance
The battery tender leads are only to quickly access the 12 volt battery if it ever runs flat (from long term storage). It is not necessary for everyday running of the Ami. I do however run a totally separate 12 volt battery system to power accessories such as an additional electric fan heater.
Thanks for the information 👍
Will the ami run whilst it's being charged? Plenty room for a generator in the rear
No, the car will not charge when running. External charging only operates when switched off and with the handbrake applied.
Thank you, good solution
You're welcome!
Hi Doug, I've read the manual and you have confirmed in the statement above that the battery tender should be disconnected before connecting the onboard 48v charging . So i'm assuming that everytime you want to connect your charger whether in charger or tender mode you still need to remove bumper to disconnect 48v internal charge cable to the battery? Or is there something I'm missing?
I don't envisage having to connect my battery tender unless the vehicle has been left for a long time and the on-board 12v battery is too low to actuate the Ami's systems (which does happen).
Similarly going for Wax oiling the underbody and having vulnerable electrical connections visible on the underside better protected from the elements - a necessary investment in time and money - peace of mind...
The steel chassis has a very thin coat of paint from the factory, along with some iffy welds!
Hence why I opted for a 2 year PCP with the option of handing the keys back when the warranty expires……
I'd never consider running a vehicle without keeping the battery regularly "conditioned"...
That remind me, I need to put the battery tender back on my Morgan!
So much unused space there
Room for a Hayabusa engine!
I though that too, problem would be access. Could get some serious speakers in there Bruv!
@gilburton The Ami’s 48volt controller/computer would cause problems adding extra batteries. Unless you are an expert in canbus systems.