I'm a woodworking machine technician and SawStop makes a quality product. The one hard thing they did that is a negative was the pulleys for the main drive belt have no adjustment whatsoever. It's a nice belt, about an inch or so wide with multiple small V-s across the width, but it's a bear to install. You have to put one side on the pulley with most of it sticking out into space and roll the opposite side over it's pulley then work the belt across both pulleys while spinning the pulleys either by rotating the arbor or moving the belt by hand until it it's on properly. It's easy to pinch your fingers between the belt and pulley. So I do suggest that you blow out the sawdust from the belt at the end of each day to keep the belt from rolling it in over the pulleys then you should extend the time until you have to replace it.
I have been using sawstop saws for years. I could not imagine not using one. I have one set up as a large table saw for cutting panels/plywood and one set up as rip saw. Honestly if you are serious about safety while woodworking they are a MUST have.
Good luck with the assembly of your new toy. You'll love it. Once the saw stop is activated. It's expensive to recharge the saw assembly. But you'll still have your fingers. 👍
I have the job site version of their table saws and two things I’ve noticed, one it is less powerful than my Ridgid table saw and it has tripped twice in the two months I’ve been using it. Once when my tape measure accidentally touched the side of the blade for a split second. The other time I was ripping without the Riving Knife in place and it kicked back. Apparently I touched the blade when that happened but I was unaware of it and not injured at all. It costs $150 each time it happens. I very much enjoy your channel, Rob To control my dust collection fans I ran the power through a wireless switch unit, $15 from Home Depot. 15 Amp Wireless Outdoor Remote Control Outlet Switch - 1 RCV with 2 Grounded Outlets and 1 Remote, Black. I just put the fob remote in my pocket then and switch the dust Colleen or off from wherever I am.
I've had this brand saw for a few years. I love that saw, although I might add the cross sled table to mine. I can say that it is a finger saver. I trigger the stop mechanism once with my finger, I felt it but no blood. It maybe expensive, but it's well worth keeping all ten fingers.
Dear Peter, even for the small critiques, an awesome table saw set up. Am still using my old Elektra Beckum KGT500. The appropriate table slide for this particular machine runs over a detachable rail which can be mounted on the left hand side of this machine. Because it is considered to be a portable set up I’ve most often used it with out feed table. That means I place the rail kind of balanced on the side. This in turn means the operating space in front of the saw is larger. In cases where I was able to use an out feed support, I chose to put the rail in full forward position. This makes using the slide extension on my machine rather awkward, because the distance to the machine becomes to large. For this reason, when I used a permanent set up for the machine, I installed an auxiliary on/off switch with a dead-stop function. The on/off covered by the dead-stop button on an ergonomic location. Just as a suggestion! Cheerio Happy 4th of July!
That is a beautiful table saw, congratulations. I hope you never need it’s brakes but it’s great to have the feature. We need those fingers to count, lol. I think the off paddle is placed there so that you can use your leg to turn off the saw.
Peter, get the hydraulic rolling base for it. It's absolutely worth the money!! If you ever need to move the saw, it's a couple of pumps of the foot handle and you can slide it across that floor with two fingers.
Lovely piece of kit there Peter. That 'in-feed' table will be a good addition for taking the weight of a sheet of plywood/MDF when cutting along the short side of a sheet - and certainly looks a lot better than the slide table that is attached at the end. The extra frame/leg that is missing may be a blessing, nothing worse than cutting a sheet and forgetting that there is a frame unseen underneath until you hit it with your foot/leg which then affects your concentration of holding the sheet at the correct height and angle while feeding it through the saw.
You're probably right. Even with the truncated rail, I've still walked into it a couple of times (it's nut height). I just have to be careful that I don't drop the wood into place.
I'm now about 3/4 of the way through your assembly video. I would suggest that you modify your outfeed table so it's easily removed. Put a set of legs underneath near the saw so you can detach the top from the saw and slide it away. If any maintenance needs to be done on the saw being able to access the motor cover and get into the cabinet is easier without having to crawl under tables.
I've been operating a sawstop for 7 years with nearly the same configuration and the only time I've ever removed the back cover on the saw was to add anti vibration foam to the door itself. Provided you blow out the saw occasionally and otherwise properly maintain it, that panel will likely never need to be removed.
Enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. Nice to see that you're "shop inspector"was watching. That is a beautiful setup. With the questions you have I would find out possibly if they have a "live" technical help at their home office? For all the intricate things you do, you deserve the best and somebody should be at a facility to help you make it that way.
You may want to see what Lowe’s does with their lumber carts after they retire them as they are very handy for moving plywood and other bulky items around.
With the high proportion of store carts that are beaten-up to the point that they no longer roll properly but are still in use, I very much doubt that they would retire carts still in a usable condition. Even if I could get a properly serviceable one, it would only be in the way. My plywood is delivered only a few feet from the saw, so it's easier to pick up a sheet and pit it directly on the saw than on a cart where it has to be moved a second time. If you've ever tried loading 3/4" plywood onto one of those cards by yourself, you would know how awkward they are.
Pressure treated lumber will trigger mechanism if still wet enough. I’ve used these saws, but honestly not a fan of their performance. However if you are shaky with woodworking skills, or for high school woodshops, they are a safe machine. I’ve always wondered about if the elimination of danger promotes unsafe practices. I’ve been a woodworker since I was 11 and a professional one since I was 21, and have never had even a close call or heard of a fellow pro loosing digits on a table saw in 35 years. Sanders are much more dangerous. I’ve been curious as to why you haven’t invested in a CNC? You seem to have good computer drafting skills and a CNC would be a game changer for your business, and pay for it in short order.
I have mats covering power cords everywhere they need to run across the floor. I also briefly had one in front of the miter saw (where I spend a lot more time than by the table saw), but Zeus always wanted to lie on it. Unless I covered the entire floor, they wouldn't really help anyway since I'm moving about most of the time and would spend only a very small amount of time actually standing on them.
Phillips head screws SUCK! I would rather spend an entire day putting in hex head screws knowing that I can torque them properly and take them out if needed. I avoid Phillips like the plague.
You missed the point of what I said. The two bolts I was referring to were hard up under the table where I couldn't swing an allen wrench but where a hand screwdriver would have fitted easily.
![Quando Rondo - Grow Up [Official Music Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8zFnCg3BO4Q/mqdefault.jpg)
Very Nice, Thanks again.
Happy 4th of July 😊🎉
I'm a woodworking machine technician and SawStop makes a quality product. The one hard thing they did that is a negative was the pulleys for the main drive belt have no adjustment whatsoever. It's a nice belt, about an inch or so wide with multiple small V-s across the width, but it's a bear to install. You have to put one side on the pulley with most of it sticking out into space and roll the opposite side over it's pulley then work the belt across both pulleys while spinning the pulleys either by rotating the arbor or moving the belt by hand until it it's on properly. It's easy to pinch your fingers between the belt and pulley. So I do suggest that you blow out the sawdust from the belt at the end of each day to keep the belt from rolling it in over the pulleys then you should extend the time until you have to replace it.
Beautiful piece of kit Peter. Can’t wait to see it start ripping materials for my layout.
I'll be ready when you are.
@@mpeterll you bet - the builder thinks he can have the final dimensions locked in before Christmas 👍
I have been using sawstop saws for years. I could not imagine not using one. I have one set up as a large table saw for cutting panels/plywood and one set up as rip saw. Honestly if you are serious about safety while woodworking they are a MUST have.
Good luck with the assembly of your new toy. You'll love it. Once the saw stop is activated. It's expensive to recharge the saw assembly. But you'll still have your fingers. 👍
Smart man making smart decisions for time management.
thats one serious piece of equipment , will help you out enormously, keep churning out those layouts...
Workshop envy!!!!😮😮😮
Glad to see your using a sawstop. Anyone who frequently uses a table saw should be behind a sawstop
I have the job site version of their table saws and two things I’ve noticed, one it is less powerful than my Ridgid table saw and it has tripped twice in the two months I’ve been using it. Once when my tape measure accidentally touched the side of the blade for a split second. The other time I was ripping without the Riving Knife in place and it kicked back. Apparently I touched the blade when that happened but I was unaware of it and not injured at all. It costs $150 each time it happens. I very much enjoy your channel, Rob
To control my dust collection fans I ran the power through a wireless switch unit, $15 from Home Depot. 15 Amp Wireless Outdoor Remote Control Outlet Switch - 1 RCV with 2 Grounded Outlets and 1 Remote, Black. I just put the fob remote in my pocket then and switch the dust Colleen or off from wherever I am.
I've had this brand saw for a few years. I love that saw, although I might add the cross sled table to mine. I can say that it is a finger saver. I trigger the stop mechanism once with my finger, I felt it but no blood. It maybe expensive, but it's well worth keeping all ten fingers.
Dear Peter, even for the small critiques, an awesome table saw set up. Am still using my old Elektra Beckum KGT500. The appropriate table slide for this particular machine runs over a detachable rail which can be mounted on the left hand side of this machine. Because it is considered to be a portable set up I’ve most often used it with out feed table. That means I place the rail kind of balanced on the side. This in turn means the operating space in front of the saw is larger. In cases where I was able to use an out feed support, I chose to put the rail in full forward position. This makes using the slide extension on my machine rather awkward, because the distance to the machine becomes to large.
For this reason, when I used a permanent set up for the machine, I installed an auxiliary on/off switch with a dead-stop function. The on/off covered by the dead-stop button on an ergonomic location. Just as a suggestion! Cheerio Happy 4th of July!
That is a beautiful table saw, congratulations. I hope you never need it’s brakes but it’s great to have the feature. We need those fingers to count, lol. I think the off paddle is placed there so that you can use your leg to turn off the saw.
Love the shopmade attachments.
Good one, Peter! That’s a great setup.👏👏👏
Peter, get the hydraulic rolling base for it. It's absolutely worth the money!! If you ever need to move the saw, it's a couple of pumps of the foot handle and you can slide it across that floor with two fingers.
I looked at that but it;s not compatible with the crosscut sled or am out-feed table. Also, the in-feed table means that it can't be moved at all.
Wish I had a workshop big enough for a saw like that, good job 👏
This is something that has been a long time coming. The only reason I can justify the expense is that this is my full-time business.
THANK YOU FOR OTHER DETAIL VIDEO AS GREAT WATCHING HOW GO TOGETHER
An amazing new addition to your new workshop thankyou for the video
That is a hell of a saw!
Beautiful shop tpu have going there my friend!
Congrats on the new saw! It's pleasure to use!
Lovely piece of kit there Peter. That 'in-feed' table will be a good addition for taking the weight of a sheet of plywood/MDF when cutting along the short side of a sheet - and certainly looks a lot better than the slide table that is attached at the end. The extra frame/leg that is missing may be a blessing, nothing worse than cutting a sheet and forgetting that there is a frame unseen underneath until you hit it with your foot/leg which then affects your concentration of holding the sheet at the correct height and angle while feeding it through the saw.
You're probably right. Even with the truncated rail, I've still walked into it a couple of times (it's nut height). I just have to be careful that I don't drop the wood into place.
@@mpeterll Well said!
I'm now about 3/4 of the way through your assembly video. I would suggest that you modify your outfeed table so it's easily removed. Put a set of legs underneath near the saw so you can detach the top from the saw and slide it away. If any maintenance needs to be done on the saw being able to access the motor cover and get into the cabinet is easier without having to crawl under tables.
I've been operating a sawstop for 7 years with nearly the same configuration and the only time I've ever removed the back cover on the saw was to add anti vibration foam to the door itself. Provided you blow out the saw occasionally and otherwise properly maintain it, that panel will likely never need to be removed.
Nice in the new shop.
A magnificent saw, great help for your work
Enjoyed that, thanks for sharing. Nice to see that you're "shop inspector"was watching.
That is a beautiful setup. With the questions you have I would find out possibly if they have a "live" technical help at their home office? For all the intricate things you do, you deserve the best and somebody should be at a facility to help you make it that way.
I did use their live help-line during assembly - called them about the tab clearance.
You may want to see what Lowe’s does with their lumber carts after they retire them as they are very handy for moving plywood and other bulky items around.
With the high proportion of store carts that are beaten-up to the point that they no longer roll properly but are still in use, I very much doubt that they would retire carts still in a usable condition. Even if I could get a properly serviceable one, it would only be in the way. My plywood is delivered only a few feet from the saw, so it's easier to pick up a sheet and pit it directly on the saw than on a cart where it has to be moved a second time.
If you've ever tried loading 3/4" plywood onto one of those cards by yourself, you would know how awkward they are.
Great videos RESPECT 🚂✊🔥🔥🔥
Pressure treated lumber will trigger mechanism if still wet enough. I’ve used these saws, but honestly not a fan of their performance. However if you are shaky with woodworking skills, or for high school woodshops, they are a safe machine. I’ve always wondered about if the elimination of danger promotes unsafe practices. I’ve been a woodworker since I was 11 and a professional one since I was 21, and have never had even a close call or heard of a fellow pro loosing digits on a table saw in 35 years. Sanders are much more dangerous. I’ve been curious as to why you haven’t invested in a CNC? You seem to have good computer drafting skills and a CNC would be a game changer for your business, and pay for it in short order.
Peter, it's not about legal , it's about saw dust getting into that box and a fire starting. It's not pretty .
i think the on /off switch could be foot operated ,,is that tab that is doing nothing ,,anything important ?
I have no idea why that tab is there.
You might want to buy anti fatigue Mat for the operating area your legs and back will thank you later
I have mats covering power cords everywhere they need to run across the floor. I also briefly had one in front of the miter saw (where I spend a lot more time than by the table saw), but Zeus always wanted to lie on it. Unless I covered the entire floor, they wouldn't really help anyway since I'm moving about most of the time and would spend only a very small amount of time actually standing on them.
Phillips head screws SUCK! I would rather spend an entire day putting in hex head screws knowing that I can torque them properly and take them out if needed. I avoid Phillips like the plague.
You missed the point of what I said. The two bolts I was referring to were hard up under the table where I couldn't swing an allen wrench but where a hand screwdriver would have fitted easily.