What I did with my 2.0 Erevo to solve this issue was to move the bottom suspension rod to the inner most hole on the A-Arms. And I also replaced the shock ball-ends to aluminium. I since do crazier jumps and no breakage so far.. :)
To the people who read this and watch this video. If you want to jump the truck go onto Google and Google what spring rate should I use for jumping and you will see that stiff springs are used for jumping. It creates a spring affect that helps the truck jump and also helps it when it lands. Also keep in mind if you think you're going to put real thick heavy shock oil you're going to put more pressure on the shock shafts and eventually the shafts will break due to the resistance you're creating by putting the thicker oil. Yes the truck is designed to do everything out of the box but it's not designed to jump 10 to 15 feet in the configuration that it is with those stocks springs it's going to create problems. I've read so many people saying all these trucks suck they broke. If you're trying to do something in particular with your truck you need to do some research on what it takes to obtain that because not everything is going to be exactly purchased for what you wanted to do. So most of the complaints are bashers that are having issues with the shocks and the shock ends and the rod ends. Well guess what they do make heavy duty rod ends and they do make aluminum shock ends to illuminate these problems. Also keep in mind Traxxas does sell a 6.4 spring rate which is the purple spring which I have found best for jumping between ranges of 4 to 17 feet repeatedly without any problems keeping the stock shock oil. Hope this helps. Traxxas part number for the springs 5445
Shafts usually break due to being over compressed, ends rip off from over extension. Cranking down the spring collars causes the spring to fully compress, then the shaft end will get snapped off. I run heavy oil, heavy springs and the VDK #2 disks in all 3 of my revos. My biggest issue is the ends wear out really fast due to the heavy oil/springs. I put limiters like you did on the rear of my ERBEv1, different way, same effect. Haven't had one rip off since. I also run a bit softer spring on it than I was running. I think I had blue/silver on it, now I run RC Ravel dual rates w/associated 60wt in the front/rear. It slaps the ground pretty hard and pops the front up on every landing. I'm just ignoring it for now. I've since gotten an Arrma outcast and savage flux hp. Both of those handle big air far better than all my revos. The ERBEv1 was my first electric truck 1.5yrs ago. In my opinion, the shocks aren't large enough or long enough for what's expected of them as a basher. On a track, they are fine, but 99% of the people that buy it probably don't run on a track, so it's kind of a pointless truck in that regard.
Run thicker shock oil and or different valving to slow down how fast the suspension can move. Stock 30wt isnt enough for jumping. Not sure what the stock shock valve setup is, but it might be worth going to someting more restrictive to also slow down the speed of the suspension.
I have some limiting straps that I'm going to put on. I'm going to see if that solves the issue so that I can set up the suspension with out having to worry about working around that issue.
Yes if you jump then get the team associated Lucas oil silicone oil and do like 60w or higher I run 70w in my slash and it works great it's the best shock oil I've used so far.
On mine I put 80mm HR limiting straps and looped it around the metal brace(one for each side) and it helped everything, no more rod ends ripping on the back, no more driveshafts popping out
Someone should do a proper erevo suspension setup. I think a lot of people's issues come to improper setup. The suspension on these trucks is truly amazing if you know how to set it up and how to drive it. They are so much more stable than almost anything out there.
I’ve had my Revo 2.0 since it came out. I blew through my set of tires trying to do a speed run geared up. So I went with a set of trenchers. Never once have I pulled that Rod out. And I had some major crashes myself. This truck was also run over by a real Z 71 pick up truck and survived.
@@outsourcedrc I feel really dumb now spending 600. I dont bash all like that...jumping and banging around...mostly muddy riding and dirt n grass. Im Afraid of waisting my hard earned money. Lol. Any particular things u can tell me to look out for? Thank u
@@WiredRC hey man. I am waiting on my e revo 2.0. I'm afraid after watching all these videos that I waisted my money! I don't bash hard...mostly mud...dirt...gravel..snow. Is there anything u can tell me to look out for to avoid alllllllll the trucks issues? Thanks
Realistically, the straps and thicker oil are the easiest. The rockers should have been designed with an adjustable bump stop though at the central pivot point. This would probably need a different frame design as well in that area.
Yes the revo suspension drops that low obviously for tall ground clearance in the middle , but your right they should have added like a tab I the frame to limit the travel so when the shock is rebound all the way out, it doesn't put fast momentum and sudden stop to the shocks, it's basicly pulling the shocks after there all the way extended because of all they speed of the return, it sucks but yea, thicker shock oil will slow return, you can also get limit straps. Or make somthing custom up like alot do HAHA nice video very informative thank you.
I've put the variable damping valves(TRA5461) in my shocks with 60w and haven't had any issues. Seems to have slowed them down enough to fix the problem.
E-Revos springs on the shocks seem to be ok but the dampening part of the shock seems to have to thin of a viscosity allowing the rear wheels to drop to quick , take it for what it's worth , it worked for me .
I seen your other video where you installed your limiting straps, but I would suggest putting one strap from the end of the rocker where the rod end connects to the other rocker where the rod end connects. It won't interfere with any of the suspension and will still limit how far the rockers extend.
Outsourced RC I still would think it would keep it from snapping back to full droop when you were jumping it. That is when you were wrecking the shocks most often? Don't the company sell shorter ones that would work with the GTR's on the Revo? On vehicles like my Jeep (real one) it limits the travel of the coil, not the shock itself. More often being mounted parallel to the travel of the shock/coil. Just what I would think. Either way tho, you figured out a way to make it work. Trial and error.
100% correct in my opinion why your shocks are breaking. Have you tryed shocks with a slightly longer travel rods? You'll still need the limiting straps but it the straps fail the extra suspension travel could make a difference between the rod ends being torn off or not?
The video is on my channel. The straps can be ordered online. I used hot racing 100mm straps. Get 90mm straps and you won't have to use a spacer like I did.
You need to get a hold of some 3-4 mm thick gel pads that are sticky on one side, use them on the a-arms placed between the skid plates, that will soften the impact, I sold my e-revo brushless but that's what I did to save my shocks and a-arms from breaking while bashing! It reduces the travel so I had long travel in there too.
I would maybe tie the rockers together with a zip tie. That would limit how far the suspension could travel and relieve some of the stress from the shocks. Then if you do crash the zip tie would have to break before the shocks break, and if that happens it's a cheap and easy fix, that may save you a few bucks on rod ends.
Having the same issue. Broke the rod connector first 5 seconds of driving it. Seems like legit reason to why they break. Thicker oil might be a good solutoon
The tire and most of the A-ARM are unsprung mass, they wont have an impact on the suspension. But the distance will give the inside mass a bigger lever and would need to be accounted for. If it's the rebound of the shock than just put in thicker oil until it matches the rebound on the other car. Most people can understand spring rates and timings (oscillation frequency) but they don't figure for bump and rebound oscillation stiffness in the shocks. It looks like they tightened up the spring to account for the longer A-ARM but not the shocks. My two cents.
Hey when I do speed runs I install a zip tie looped through the rocker arms the tighter the lower it sits limiting the travel! I know this isn’t the best permanent Sulution but it could be helpful for testing
Very informative video. I appreciate the video documentation you did. This video will get us looking in the right direction. Oh, I borrowed the metal rear chassis brace idea from one of your previous videos. Works great.
The issue with the e Revo 2.0 is the weight of the wheels and that on jumps all the weight is sent to the shock threads which eventually end up stripping. On a conventional set up on a truggy for example a losi 8igbt had droop screws or chassis stoppers whichever name you prefer. These take the load off the shocks on big jumps.
Some rc have droop screws you can wind in and there is also travel limit straps you can buy for some to. But yeah just got to limit the travel so it aint putting pressure on the rod ends
Not sure if you have fixed issue yet but I have and it's crazy simple. I put the blue bump stops on the inside of the shock shaft as well as on the outside and haven't broken one since
might be that the tension nut on the rear shocks are making the spring have a lot well tension pushing the arms down to fast. i dont even have them like that on my original nitro revo its its been what 10 years and still never had that problem.
I've been running the Revo 3.3 and Revo 2.0 and never had this issue. Looking at your springs and the way your trucks sit you have your springs cranked way to tight. From a drop you want the truck to settle about where the A arms sit level of not slightly above level. Your springs are forcing the suspension down way too fast because your ride height is set too high.
I have the same issue, thank you for posting this. I ordered aluminum rod ends maybe that will fix it. I bought 110mm straps but couldn't find a spot to mount it, where the straps would be effective. Also I ran into the issue of screws not being long enough to use the strap ends as spacers. Any and all help would be much appreciated
Get limiting straps and strap it to the arm to the shock Tower at the Max droopAnd then when you jump the arms will go all the way down as fast because I don’t think that’s the problem it’s probably the arms going to fall down should be good I had to do that on my Emaxx brushless
Run limit screws on the bottom of the chassis So it limits the amount of travel when it’s in the air . Some R/C models do have this feature where you can screw the lower control arms upwards so it limits the amount of travel .. just an idea !!!!!
This is pretty embarrassing for a major company like Traxxas. Essentially they expect their customers to be the beta testers for their products, and if it breaks due to a design flaw then oh well, more money in their pocket. Basically there are zero benefits of having inboard shocks on the Erevo due to all of the issues.
I put better gtr shocks on mine and used thicker shock oil and it fixed it for me:) all I see is sole wear on the plastic rod ends. My erevo is too good.
The speed that wheel returned it didn't seem like there was any oil , or to thin an oil in the shock . Back when i was racing we had the shocks stipped every week and new oil . When did you last service them ??
It's not the oil. We have been testing different oils and shocks and getting the same results. I have another video showing how we fixed the issue with limiting straps.
Yeah. So you were saying the oil thickness or the lack of oil was the issue, correct? We checked and tested all of that. Limiting straps is the only thing that we have found that solves the issue.
Sorry , i wasn't commenting on your breakages , i was just making an observation generally about how quick the shock was returning and how it didn't look to have any real damping .
Cool video mate. I think the straps seem the best option or getting titanium rods? I know some have mentioned thicker oil but that will change the characteristics of it when driving not just when the arms drop mid air.
Outsourced RC yeah I did hear in the video. You would of thought Traxxas would of took into consideration when making it wider. Your analogy of holding the shopping bags out puts it in basic terms. Take care buddy.
I dont know if I can show you my revo but I solved this problem months ago I run 2 hot racing limiting straps across from each pushrod tube where it connects to to the lever and also instinstalled hot racing aluminum shock ends and I'm running huge badlands mx 38 s and its never broke also can I put up a pic of my car on here
Hi there, I need help!! My EREVO 2.0 is having a throttle issues, if I want to go forward it's not going but yet when I press to go on reverse it will go forward. Any ideas what to do? When pulling the trigger to go forward I can see the green light on the car but no reaction.
It's hard to troubleshoot over messages like this. I'd check all the wires and connections first. There are 3 wires that go from the ESC that come loose sometimes. Check and make sure those connections are good.
Hmm... What about some shorter travel rockers? The ones that come on the 2.0 are progressive, its possible that Traxxas made some shorter rockers for the Brushless edition you could try. I'd like to get this figured out as well, my 2.0 is coming soon! Thanks for the information :P
I have a video where I put limiting straps on my E Revo 2.0. Others have done the same thing and it solves the problem. Most seem to use 90mm limiting straps. I used 100mm with a spacer to shorten them. The video is on my channel.
I really like the erevo 2.0 buy my first run out I snapped the upper rig rear arm off the pin. I'm wondering if anyone has tried the rpm arms are they any tougher?
Outsourced RC hi sorry just read what a spell correcting mess that was haha. Yes my first run out I snapped the rear upper a-arm where the pin goes threw. I wonder if I should replace it stock or try the rpm arms? Also have you had any trouble with your electronic braking from the esc? It's what caused my breakage. I just lightly tapped the brakes and it locked up sending it into a tumble roll. Can I adjust that braking force? Thanks for your informative vidoes🍻
I've had no trouble with the A arms. It's hard to know exactly what caused yours to break. Sometimes what causes the final break isn't what caused the initial break. You can have a cracked part for a while without knowing. You have seen how hard I am on my E Revo and I've only broken the rear shocks and bent two rods. You can try another brand of A Arms but I don't think many people are having issues with the stock ones.
Outsourced RC very true it's possible it was weak already. Although this was my first run ever on the truck. I did barrel roll it at least 20 times in two minutes though. Good to know I'll replace it with a stock arm then that will save me some money. Do you find the brakes grabby or too powerful?? I'm going to have to look into the shock travel issue your talking about also. Haven't had that problem but don't want to. I'd like this to be my go to truck this year
The breaks take some time getting used to. I nosed it over several times when i first got it. Now I never have that issue. I think its the result of it not having a slipper clutch. I noticed the Xmaxx noses over the same way.
I have a solution..... Don't buy Traxxas anymore....... Every Traxxas I own every single thing broke ....$$$$$$.... Overrated good-looking junk design to break......ARRMA.... Baby that's the way to go.....
![ARGENTINA vs. PERÚ [1-0] | RESUMEN | ELIMINATORIAS SUDAMERICANAS | FECHA 12](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xtI25ENDDSY/mqdefault.jpg)
What I did with my 2.0 Erevo to solve this issue was to move the bottom suspension rod to the inner most hole on the A-Arms. And I also replaced the shock ball-ends to aluminium. I since do crazier jumps and no breakage so far.. :)
Yeah but I wanted a fix that didn't require me to adjust the suspension. I wanted a fix that would let me do what ever I wanted with the settings.
To the people who read this and watch this video. If you want to jump the truck go onto Google and Google what spring rate should I use for jumping and you will see that stiff springs are used for jumping. It creates a spring affect that helps the truck jump and also helps it when it lands. Also keep in mind if you think you're going to put real thick heavy shock oil you're going to put more pressure on the shock shafts and eventually the shafts will break due to the resistance you're creating by putting the thicker oil. Yes the truck is designed to do everything out of the box but it's not designed to jump 10 to 15 feet in the configuration that it is with those stocks springs it's going to create problems. I've read so many people saying all these trucks suck they broke. If you're trying to do something in particular with your truck you need to do some research on what it takes to obtain that because not everything is going to be exactly purchased for what you wanted to do. So most of the complaints are bashers that are having issues with the shocks and the shock ends and the rod ends. Well guess what they do make heavy duty rod ends and they do make aluminum shock ends to illuminate these problems. Also keep in mind Traxxas does sell a 6.4 spring rate which is the purple spring which I have found best for jumping between ranges of 4 to 17 feet repeatedly without any problems keeping the stock shock oil. Hope this helps. Traxxas part number for the springs 5445
Shafts usually break due to being over compressed, ends rip off from over extension. Cranking down the spring collars causes the spring to fully compress, then the shaft end will get snapped off.
I run heavy oil, heavy springs and the VDK #2 disks in all 3 of my revos. My biggest issue is the ends wear out really fast due to the heavy oil/springs.
I put limiters like you did on the rear of my ERBEv1, different way, same effect. Haven't had one rip off since. I also run a bit softer spring on it than I was running. I think I had blue/silver on it, now I run RC Ravel dual rates w/associated 60wt in the front/rear. It slaps the ground pretty hard and pops the front up on every landing. I'm just ignoring it for now.
I've since gotten an Arrma outcast and savage flux hp. Both of those handle big air far better than all my revos. The ERBEv1 was my first electric truck 1.5yrs ago.
In my opinion, the shocks aren't large enough or long enough for what's expected of them as a basher. On a track, they are fine, but 99% of the people that buy it probably don't run on a track, so it's kind of a pointless truck in that regard.
Thanks for doing what you do!!! I love my E-Revo 2.0 but it is alot of work! Then its alot of fun again!!!
The 1.0 hub carriers have a different geometry. The ball joints in them max out sooner than the 2.0. So they allow less drop on the arms and tires.
Run thicker shock oil and or different valving to slow down how fast the suspension can move. Stock 30wt isnt enough for jumping. Not sure what the stock shock valve setup is, but it might be worth going to someting more restrictive to also slow down the speed of the suspension.
I have some limiting straps that I'm going to put on. I'm going to see if that solves the issue so that I can set up the suspension with out having to worry about working around that issue.
Adam Bahnsen .. good call on the shock oil.
Keep the wheels and ditch the ramp!
Miguel Marquez I made a new ramp, and I have a video talking about how to fix this issue. The Shock oil change doesn't work.
Yes if you jump then get the team associated Lucas oil silicone oil and do like 60w or higher I run 70w in my slash and it works great it's the best shock oil I've used so far.
I agree, skock oil and different disc inside. It has more weight in the vehicle to still handle great. Probably make it better.
On mine I put 80mm HR limiting straps and looped it around the metal brace(one for each side) and it helped everything, no more rod ends ripping on the back, no more driveshafts popping out
Yeah I have a video on that.
Someone should do a proper erevo suspension setup. I think a lot of people's issues come to improper setup. The suspension on these trucks is truly amazing if you know how to set it up and how to drive it. They are so much more stable than almost anything out there.
I’ve had my Revo 2.0 since it came out. I blew through my set of tires trying to do a speed run geared up. So I went with a set of trenchers. Never once have I pulled that Rod out. And I had some major crashes myself. This truck was also run over by a real Z 71 pick up truck and survived.
Ha. This is a common issue. It's all over the Facebook pages.
Outsourced RC I know it’s a common issue I’ve just never had a problem with it myself. And I consider myself a hard-core basher.
Yeah I didnt have the issue for a long time and I'm super rough on my E Revo. Just give it time. I think we are all going to have the same issues.
@@outsourcedrc I feel really dumb now spending 600. I dont bash all like that...jumping and banging around...mostly muddy riding and dirt n grass. Im Afraid of waisting my hard earned money. Lol. Any particular things u can tell me to look out for? Thank u
@@WiredRC hey man. I am waiting on my e revo 2.0. I'm afraid after watching all these videos that I waisted my money! I don't bash hard...mostly mud...dirt...gravel..snow. Is there anything u can tell me to look out for to avoid alllllllll the trucks issues? Thanks
Realistically, the straps and thicker oil are the easiest. The rockers should have been designed with an adjustable bump stop though at the central pivot point. This would probably need a different frame design as well in that area.
Yes the revo suspension drops that low obviously for tall ground clearance in the middle , but your right they should have added like a tab I the frame to limit the travel so when the shock is rebound all the way out, it doesn't put fast momentum and sudden stop to the shocks, it's basicly pulling the shocks after there all the way extended because of all they speed of the return, it sucks but yea, thicker shock oil will slow return, you can also get limit straps. Or make somthing custom up like alot do HAHA nice video very informative thank you.
I actually have a video showing how to put limiting straps on the rear.
I've put the variable damping valves(TRA5461) in my shocks with 60w and haven't had any issues. Seems to have slowed them down enough to fix the problem.
I like the straps I put on better so that I can set up the suspension however I want without worrying about the rodend issue
I guess you are right.
Best solution would be a travel limiter.
Standard 1/8th truggys all have travel limiters
Zount Master Thanks. I'll look into that.
You hear of running straps on everything from motorcycle front forks and off road vehicles. That would be a nice part to come up with.
E-Revos springs on the shocks seem to be ok but the dampening part of the shock seems to have to thin of a viscosity allowing the rear wheels to drop to quick , take it for what it's worth , it worked for me .
Glad you're mark 1 still works brother mine stips diffs all the time
I seen your other video where you installed your limiting straps, but I would suggest putting one strap from the end of the rocker where the rod end connects to the other rocker where the rod end connects. It won't interfere with any of the suspension and will still limit how far the rockers extend.
That won't work because it won't limit the suspension if one wheel is up and the other is down. There is too much slack.
Outsourced RC I still would think it would keep it from snapping back to full droop when you were jumping it. That is when you were wrecking the shocks most often? Don't the company sell shorter ones that would work with the GTR's on the Revo? On vehicles like my Jeep (real one) it limits the travel of the coil, not the shock itself. More often being mounted parallel to the travel of the shock/coil. Just what I would think. Either way tho, you figured out a way to make it work. Trial and error.
100% correct in my opinion why your shocks are breaking. Have you tryed shocks with a slightly longer travel rods?
You'll still need the limiting straps but it the straps fail the extra suspension travel could make a difference between the rod ends being torn off or not?
I just use the straps. They have been doing fine.
you can get "limiting straps" for the 2.0
Yeah. I have a video about that. As far as I'm aware, I'm the guy that came up with the straps the way we have been mounting them.
Where can these be found? Thanks!
The video is on my channel. The straps can be ordered online. I used hot racing 100mm straps. Get 90mm straps and you won't have to use a spacer like I did.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0178GRMK4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_mvdgBbCMF6KY6
thicker oil
Traxxas says the factory assembled rod ends are "pushed on" and not screwed. New rod ends threaded on or aluminum would make a big difference.
Do you mean on the shocks? The shafts will still break with aluminum ends. I solved it with limiting straps. I have another video where I show that.
You need to get a hold of some 3-4 mm thick gel pads that are sticky on one side, use them on the a-arms placed between the skid plates, that will soften the impact, I sold my e-revo brushless but that's what I did to save my shocks and a-arms from breaking while bashing! It reduces the travel so I had long travel in there too.
I just put limiting straps on the rear and that solved all the issues.
Outsourced RC do show me what you did, on a small video if possible! Thanks in advance!
I have a video up already. It's on my channel.
Instead of the gel pads you could also use Scotch 2228 mastic tape under the lower arm. It's dense, thick, and has good adhesive.
I would maybe tie the rockers together with a zip tie. That would limit how far the suspension could travel and relieve some of the stress from the shocks. Then if you do crash the zip tie would have to break before the shocks break, and if that happens it's a cheap and easy fix, that may save you a few bucks on rod ends.
I actually solved the problem with limiting straps. I have a video about it.
May be a strategic zip tie tension strap might work
Having the same issue. Broke the rod connector first 5 seconds of driving it. Seems like legit reason to why they break. Thicker oil might be a good solutoon
Check out my limiting straps video. That's how we solve it.
The tire and most of the A-ARM are unsprung mass, they wont have an impact on the suspension. But the distance will give the inside mass a bigger lever and would need to be accounted for. If it's the rebound of the shock than just put in thicker oil until it matches the rebound on the other car. Most people can understand spring rates and timings (oscillation frequency) but they don't figure for bump and rebound oscillation stiffness in the shocks. It looks like they tightened up the spring to account for the longer A-ARM but not the shocks.
My two cents.
Hey when I do speed runs I install a zip tie looped through the rocker arms the tighter the lower it sits limiting the travel! I know this isn’t the best permanent Sulution but it could be helpful for testing
Very informative video. I appreciate the video documentation you did. This video will get us looking in the right direction. Oh, I borrowed the metal rear chassis brace idea from one of your previous videos. Works great.
Thanks. Glad you like that brace.
The issue with the e Revo 2.0 is the weight of the wheels and that on jumps all the weight is sent to the shock threads which eventually end up stripping. On a conventional set up on a truggy for example a losi 8igbt had droop screws or chassis stoppers whichever name you prefer. These take the load off the shocks on big jumps.
Some rc have droop screws you can wind in and there is also travel limit straps you can buy for some to. But yeah just got to limit the travel so it aint putting pressure on the rod ends
Yeah I figured. I'm just trying to find the best way to limit the travel.
Put a zip tie through the rockers and tighten it so it doesn’t bottom out but keeps a decent ride height
I solved the problem with limiting straps. I have a video showing how I solved it.
Not sure if you have fixed issue yet but I have and it's crazy simple. I put the blue bump stops on the inside of the shock shaft as well as on the outside and haven't broken one since
I did fix it with my limiting straps mod.
might be that the tension nut on the rear shocks are making the spring have a lot well tension pushing the arms down to fast. i dont even have them like that on my original nitro revo its its been what 10 years and still never had that problem.
I've been running the Revo 3.3 and Revo 2.0 and never had this issue. Looking at your springs and the way your trucks sit you have your springs cranked way to tight. From a drop you want the truck to settle about where the A arms sit level of not slightly above level. Your springs are forcing the suspension down way too fast because your ride height is set too high.
I got the same issue it just break, luck my the parts came today so I'll fix it and go outside to have more fun.
Put thicker shock oil in the stocks to slow the effect
I have the same issue, thank you for posting this. I ordered aluminum rod ends maybe that will fix it. I bought 110mm straps but couldn't find a spot to mount it, where the straps would be effective. Also I ran into the issue of screws not being long enough to use the strap ends as spacers. Any and all help would be much appreciated
I have a video a littler farther on that explains the straps.
Fabricate adjustable bump stops, like the Arrma Kraton, or like u said add limit straps like real monster trucks, and or aluminium-steel rod ends😎👍💪💪
Same issue with ours! Great video...thanks for the info.
Welcome. I have another explaining how to fix it.
Thanks for the tip buddy!! 👌🏻👍👍👍
Get limiting straps and strap it to the arm to the shock Tower at the Max droopAnd then when you jump the arms will go all the way down as fast because I don’t think that’s the problem it’s probably the arms going to fall down should be good I had to do that on my Emaxx brushless
I have limiting straps on it. I'm the limiting straps guy! I have a video about it.
Run limit screws on the bottom of the chassis So it limits the amount of travel when it’s in the air . Some R/C models do have this feature where you can screw the lower control arms upwards so it limits the amount of travel .. just an idea !!!!!
I solved it with limiting straps. I actually have a video about it.
This is pretty embarrassing for a major company like Traxxas. Essentially they expect their customers to be the beta testers for their products, and if it breaks due to a design flaw then oh well, more money in their pocket. Basically there are zero benefits of having inboard shocks on the Erevo due to all of the issues.
Hi, sir do you read your Owner manual on page 24,30,31and 32 it is clear what is your problem!
Those triangle parts for the suspension they have adjustable ones
My t-maxx 3.3 pulls shock apart at the rod end and the top cap and cover the body with oil
If it drops too fast u need to put some thicker oil in your schocks this will balance it out.
I actually tried this and it was still wearing out rod ends and breaking the shafts.
This is the reason for the grub screws on the Arrma
I've never had luck keeping a traxxas together. I use a ziptie and loosely wrap it around both cams so they don't drop all the way down
Yeah I have seen that. I like a cleaner look.
I put better gtr shocks on mine and used thicker shock oil and it fixed it for me:) all I see is sole wear on the plastic rod ends. My erevo is too good.
Buy team associated Lucas oil shock oil it's like 4$ and get at least 70w it will make a world of difference if you like to jump.
i saw someone used differential oil and it smoothed out the shock response.
I put limiting straps on the rear. It has solved the problem.
Nice video, Sub'd. Going to watch your other your video where you said you figured it out.
You need thicker shock oil and or different shock pistons , it will slow down the rebound .
I fixed the issue with limiting straps. Changing out Shock oil and such didn't help. I was still breaking shock shafts.
What's the difference between the Brushless edition and the "normal"? Are they both the same car and/or version or is it just the motor?
I never had the brushed version, so I don't know if its anything other than the motor.
Could run a strap from the hole in the aluminum brace to the A-arms
I have a video where I put limiting straps on it. It solved the issue.
Use rang limiting straps on lower control arms to shock towers. The problem is cheaper rod ends
I have a video showing how to put on the limiting straps
Outsourced RC 🆗
The speed that wheel returned it didn't seem like there was any oil , or to thin an oil in the shock . Back when i was racing we had the shocks stipped every week and new oil . When did you last service them ??
It's not the oil. We have been testing different oils and shocks and getting the same results. I have another video showing how we fixed the issue with limiting straps.
I didn't say it was , i said the speed that wheel returned it didn't seem like there was any oil in the shock .......
Yeah. So you were saying the oil thickness or the lack of oil was the issue, correct? We checked and tested all of that. Limiting straps is the only thing that we have found that solves the issue.
Sorry , i wasn't commenting on your breakages , i was just making an observation generally about how quick the shock was returning and how it didn't look to have any real damping .
Cool video mate. I think the straps seem the best option or getting titanium rods? I know some have mentioned thicker oil but that will change the characteristics of it when driving not just when the arms drop mid air.
I have the straps on there. I have a video about that. They solved the issue. I still have plastic shock ends and they are fine.
Outsourced RC Cool I’ll check it out.
Yeah I'm the one that came up with that idea on the 2.0.
Outsourced RC yeah I did hear in the video. You would of thought Traxxas would of took into consideration when making it wider. Your analogy of holding the shopping bags out puts it in basic terms. Take care buddy.
Like a limiter strap for a snowmobile, so the shocks will not extend to their max
I actually have a video where I put the straps on it.
Get like 40 or 45 wt shock oil
It will help make the rebound slower
I'm running 60. I solved the issue with Limiting straps. I have a video about it.
would an extra shock between cantilevers solve that problem??
What about all metal shocks?
it needs a longer pushrod on the shocks or something
We solved it with limiting straps.
Should have gotten an arrma kraton. What you need is a set screw bump stop.
I solved the issue with limiting straps.
Good point man
I dont know if I can show you my revo but I solved this problem months ago I run 2 hot racing limiting straps across from each pushrod tube where it connects to to the lever and also instinstalled hot racing aluminum shock ends and I'm running huge badlands mx 38 s and its never broke also can I put up a pic of my car on here
Great content keep it up!
Thank you!
Why is traxxas not stepping up? I just bought one so.....
What about try the thicker shock oil?
That has nothing to do with it. I solved the problem with Limited straps.
Rebound damping! .? Are they adjustable shocks ?mip shock valve kit !
I want a solution that doesn't require me to adjust the suspension settings.
i just put 5 heavier weight in each of the shocks lol that helped but not much thanks for making this vid
Did I just watch the man who should be receiving royalties on ever limiting stap ever sold?
Yep lol. This was so long ago.
Seems clear to me that spring rates are too low. Increase the spring rate front and rear. Change the shock oil to match.
I've tried that and others have tried it. Limiting straps are the only solution I have found.
Use thicker oil maybe?
Has anyone figured out a certain solution. My VXL has steal skid plates installed on the bottom so it is even heavier.
Limiting straps. i think its my very next video after this one.
Awesome vid mate!!!! 😊
Thank you!
Maybe some heavier springs like blue rating??
I'm going to put some straps on it. I think that is the best solution. I've ordered some but I'll have to customize them to make them work
They make limiting straps for the 2.0 to stop thay
Zip ti the swing arms to gether so the zip ti takes the presher
We put limiting straps on the rear. It solves the issue. I have a video on it.
Good point.....
Wonder if Traxxas is guna wake up and fix this, if not im just going to get a kraton 6s
Not yet from what I have seen. I have a solution on my channel. The limiting straps work.
Hi there, I need help!! My EREVO 2.0 is having a throttle issues, if I want to go forward it's not going but yet when I press to go on reverse it will go forward. Any ideas what to do? When pulling the trigger to go forward I can see the green light on the car but no reaction.
It's hard to troubleshoot over messages like this. I'd check all the wires and connections first. There are 3 wires that go from the ESC that come loose sometimes. Check and make sure those connections are good.
Hmm... What about some shorter travel rockers? The ones that come on the 2.0 are progressive, its possible that Traxxas made some shorter rockers for the Brushless edition you could try. I'd like to get this figured out as well, my 2.0 is coming soon! Thanks for the information :P
I have a video where I put limiting straps on my E Revo 2.0. Others have done the same thing and it solves the problem. Most seem to use 90mm limiting straps. I used 100mm with a spacer to shorten them. The video is on my channel.
My cheap fix not read any of the other comments, put o rings under the Pistons inside the shocks would limit the travel but not the speed
That doesn't help. It still breaks rod ends and shock rods
good video. i have subcribet :)
have you tried lowering your spring tension
Yep. I found a solution. I put limiting straps on the rear and it solved the issues. I have another video about it.
Outsourced RC sweet I'll check it out thanks
Idk if I should get this or kraton 6s
I'd get the E Revo. Arrma has metal chassis and brittle plastic. They cant take impacts well. Arrma are good for racing and going fast.
Try limiting straps
I'm the limiting straps guy! I have a video on it.
Same god damn problem with mine first jump it happened also a dog bone came out to in the rear
you need 60wt oil and use the 2 hole valving, prob solved
I solved it with limiting straps. I still broke shafts with thicker oil.
Seems your ahead of me. Lol
doesn't help that you have the shock springs damn near maxed out.
Bro it’s the shocks. Try a heavy shock weight like 50-55 from Losi.
It's not the Shock oil. I tried 60. Lots of us have. They still break. We solved it with limiting straps.
Thicker shock fluid
Thicken the oil it will fix it its the slapp at the end of stroke
I tried thicker oil and I still was breaking shafts. Limiting straps is how I solved the issue. I have a video on here about it.
I really like the erevo 2.0 buy my first run out I snapped the upper rig rear arm off the pin. I'm wondering if anyone has tried the rpm arms are they any tougher?
I'm not entirely sure what you are talking about. Do you mean the A arm?
Outsourced RC hi sorry just read what a spell correcting mess that was haha. Yes my first run out I snapped the rear upper a-arm where the pin goes threw. I wonder if I should replace it stock or try the rpm arms? Also have you had any trouble with your electronic braking from the esc? It's what caused my breakage. I just lightly tapped the brakes and it locked up sending it into a tumble roll. Can I adjust that braking force? Thanks for your informative vidoes🍻
I've had no trouble with the A arms. It's hard to know exactly what caused yours to break. Sometimes what causes the final break isn't what caused the initial break. You can have a cracked part for a while without knowing. You have seen how hard I am on my E Revo and I've only broken the rear shocks and bent two rods. You can try another brand of A Arms but I don't think many people are having issues with the stock ones.
Outsourced RC very true it's possible it was weak already. Although this was my first run ever on the truck. I did barrel roll it at least 20 times in two minutes though. Good to know I'll replace it with a stock arm then that will save me some money. Do you find the brakes grabby or too powerful?? I'm going to have to look into the shock travel issue your talking about also. Haven't had that problem but don't want to. I'd like this to be my go to truck this year
The breaks take some time getting used to. I nosed it over several times when i first got it. Now I never have that issue. I think its the result of it not having a slipper clutch. I noticed the Xmaxx noses over the same way.
Put thicker oil
I have a solution..... Don't buy Traxxas anymore....... Every Traxxas I own every single thing broke ....$$$$$$.... Overrated good-looking junk design to break......ARRMA.... Baby that's the way to go.....
Big tires more breaks
Just use thicker oil...