These pumps are notorious for falling apart - I have replaced mine 2 times within one year.. the first one died what was probably the normal death by wear and tear, it blew the fuse and threw the car in limp mode. I replaced it with a genuine pump from the VW dealer - this new pump lasted about 1 year and failed after my cooling system really got its jo cut out for it, when I was driving up a steep mountain in Italy, during a scorching hot summer (outside temps about 40C). My theory of why the second pump failed is that the electronic circuit simply got to much heat, the little heatshield did not help enough under these conditions.. So I think there are 2 types of failure mode for these pumps; general wear after years of service, and electronic failure due to excessive heat.. now I carry a spare pump on longer offroad trips as its a relative quick fix that can be performed anywhere with a few handtools. I am considering if it would be possible to relocate the pump a bit longer from the engineblock to help it cool off better, or even mount a small 12v fan directly in front of the pump, to help with driving in hot climates.
Sounds like you have had your work cut out! Yes, manufacturers come up with so -called solutions to problems, but only time and major mass testing proves it's true worth. Let us know if you do any modifications as you have suggested. Thanks for your comment 😉
Hey Nigel, I always like to pull things apart to see how they work.......especially when I don't have to put it back together. It's also a good opportunity to make a training resource for the apprentices. 😉
Ive got 1.6tdi polo and i have gone through a few of these pumps. the original one lasted for about 6yrs then every other one lasted less than a year... the very last one i opened up the bottom (electronics part) and saw that the wire connections to the connector were fried (one of them was) i then proceeded to solder a bit thicker copper wires for all 3 connections (- + s) then used basic bunnings silicone and duct tape to put it back together and its been about 2yrs now no engine light no codes... NOTE the mechanical part of it, the propeller, was rattling but i reckon it can work like that although it is not perfect.. i think their main issue is the tiny connector wires that burn quickly so if you dont want to spend $400(genuine) for a new one try what i did.
@@MiracleMAX i did the first time but that one was also short lived.. the one i fixed the connection on was nongenuine. cant remember the brand but they are all, including the genuine ones, made to lower quality than the ones made 10yrs ago i reckon...
Thanks Max, I have an overheating problem on my 2011 t5 biturbo transporter, will check that egr coolant pump, luckily I fitted an "engine guard" temp was getting up to 100° thx
I used the GScan 3. ruclips.net/video/nt46RVDvlXA/видео.html You need a bi-directional scan tool to be able to turn on the pump. A simple OBD scanner does not do this. Thanks for your subscription 😊
Hey Kurt, I would start by finding out where the coolant is going. Are you able to pressure test the cooling system? If there are no external leaks, you would consider a blown head gasket. Are the glow plugs OK? That could explain the hard starting if you had an external coolant leak. Is there bubbles blowing out in the radiator with the cap off and the engine running? Make sure you do this safely as hot coolant will burn. Here are a few techniques that might help you diagnose if it is a head gasket or not ruclips.net/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/видео.html ruclips.net/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/видео.html
Hey MM will the ancillary heat pump throw up the same fault as the coolant pump? I just replaced my pump (the same one as you did) and a week later I got the same fault back and fuse blown. So trying work out if the heater pump will cause same issue or a relay?
Hey Robert, If you have an electric coolant pump and also an auxiliary coolant pump, these will have individual codes. The only reason a fuse will blow is due to excessively high current, beyond what the fuse is rated for. You have to look for that reason. Get an accurate wiring diagram, carefully examine where the pump relates to the blown fuse. Carry out a detailed visual examination of the wiring loom for shorts to ground (rubbing through). Let us know how you go with your investigations 😉👍
So replaced the pump with a goss pump Fault has gone and no more blowing fuse. The pump from eBay had started to seize up and was hard to spin when I applied to a 12v battery to test, I believe this was causing the excessive current draw and causing the fuse to blow…
hi i have amarok 2014 highline code p261a cooling pump b control circuit open replaced it with new pump i’m still getting the same code car is in limp mode checked all the fuses and relays all good The car is at the mechanics at the moment he said he’s done a test on the wiring to the pump has no power any suggestion please
If the fuse is blowing, it must mean you have a short to ground. This must be repaired.The fuse is designed to protect the circuit, so if the short is repaired, you may find the new pump will be OK
Hi I got Audi A3 8v 1.6 2013 I changed timing kit (new water pump replaced too ) also changed coolant bottle as well as cap twice but whenever I drive car for more then 1 hour every two or 3 weeks coolant leaking from overflow. Inside temp all ok no overheat also did pressure test headgaskit looks ok, no engine light. Any advice please
@@MiracleMAX no fault codes . Temp inside fine don't show overheating only time I notice when coolant leak also heater inside car works fine when I switch the engine off the fan runs for 5 to 10min (3 to 5 times a week), coolant only leaks from overflow hole (pipes all ok no leak) Coolant bottle replaced twice The coolant bottle after 20min drives gets very very hot you can't even touch but inside car temp stays normal One garage told me to change the thermostat as well as the pump on your video and let's see , so I thought I can ask for any advice Leaked after 3 weeks yesterday since I replaced the coolant bottle cap for the 2nd time, The coolant level is now in the middle since it last leaked ( before the leak had extra coolant in it) Coolant leaked almost 7 to 8 times in total since I purchased the car 3 months ago, The coolant level after the leak still stays minimum or a little bit more then the minimum level
@@FTubex Do you fill the coolant bottle to between the minimum and maximum levels when cold? Is the problem that coolant is getting so high in the bottle that it is coming out of the drain out of the top of the bottle? Does it have excessive pressure built up in the cooling system? Is the bottle an overflow bottle or an expansion tank?
Yes i fill it between minimum and maximum when the engine is cold. Coolant bottle gets leak from the overflow hole on top under the cap. The bottle I got is an overflow bottle 2013 Audi s line 8v UK model. Today when I started in the morning the coolant low level sign came up on the dashboard so I filled the coolant again
@@FTubex That looks like an expansion tank, not an overflow tank. This has the pressure cap directly on top of the tank. The cooling system must be building pressure up somewhere. Does this model use a EGR cooler? Here's a testing method that can be used ruclips.net/video/QfJyvzVQAI4/видео.html Were there any resets that needed to be done after you did the belt and water pump? Are there any special bleeding procedures that need to be done? Do they have any auxiliary electric water pumps?
I always throw away those spring hose clamps too, I hate the stupid things.. we've all started pulling stuff apart only to find we were doing it wrong, I done it the other week on my wife's yaris.. I've had some fun with that thing, a rat chewed a coolant line and it got so hot the head gasket failed so I got new head bolt's, gaskets and skimmed the head and when I went to fit the head I got all the bolt's tensioned and done the first 90 degrees on bolt 1 and only got to about 60 degrees on bolt 2 when the bloody head broke off the bolt 🤬 I'll never use durapro bolts again, now I have to stuff around with the supplier and no doubt I'll be the one stuck with the cost of yet another head gasket
Hey Mark, Sounds like you've really copped it! Getting quality parts is a real problem. I'll have up a video in a while about a nightmare of a fuel pump being replaced with a faulty new pump. Makes our day interesting....😒
@@MiracleMAX yeah I had a problem with a new holley fuel pump on my 1979 f100, it worked fine until I got half an hour away and then it'd play up.. the symptoms look like ignition and I was chasing my tail for a while until I run a fuel line into the cab and stuck a guage on it and just drove up and down the road close to home until it played up.. the fuel pressure was going from 6psi down to -3psi as soon as it got heat soaked so I had to try to find a genuine fuel pump which fixed it.. I've had to many problems with holley stuff so I'll never buy it again, the same can be said for msd stuff, I ended up going back to the old points system because it doesn't let me down
@@filedeeverghetinos6471 It is possible that this code may be a result of a poor connection or poor ground contact - P2426 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooling Valve Control Circuit Low Perhaps this one is a coincident or relating to another issue - P0047 Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control A Circuit Low Possible causes of this code could include: Poor electrical connections or wiring Malfunctioning boost control solenoid
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
These pumps are notorious for falling apart - I have replaced mine 2 times within one year.. the first one died what was probably the normal death by wear and tear, it blew the fuse and threw the car in limp mode. I replaced it with a genuine pump from the VW dealer - this new pump lasted about 1 year and failed after my cooling system really got its jo cut out for it, when I was driving up a steep mountain in Italy, during a scorching hot summer (outside temps about 40C). My theory of why the second pump failed is that the electronic circuit simply got to much heat, the little heatshield did not help enough under these conditions..
So I think there are 2 types of failure mode for these pumps; general wear after years of service, and electronic failure due to excessive heat.. now I carry a spare pump on longer offroad trips as its a relative quick fix that can be performed anywhere with a few handtools. I am considering if it would be possible to relocate the pump a bit longer from the engineblock to help it cool off better, or even mount a small 12v fan directly in front of the pump, to help with driving in hot climates.
Sounds like you have had your work cut out! Yes, manufacturers come up with so -called solutions to problems, but only time and major mass testing proves it's true worth.
Let us know if you do any modifications as you have suggested.
Thanks for your comment 😉
hey mate any updates?
Well done mate, good info as usual :)
Thanks! 👍
Thx MM. Good info. Interesting to see the inside of the pump too.
Hey Nigel,
I always like to pull things apart to see how they work.......especially when I don't have to put it back together. It's also a good opportunity to make a training resource for the apprentices. 😉
Ive got 1.6tdi polo and i have gone through a few of these pumps. the original one lasted for about 6yrs then every other one lasted less than a year... the very last one i opened up the bottom (electronics part) and saw that the wire connections to the connector were fried (one of them was) i then proceeded to solder a bit thicker copper wires for all 3 connections (- + s) then used basic bunnings silicone and duct tape to put it back together and its been about 2yrs now no engine light no codes... NOTE the mechanical part of it, the propeller, was rattling but i reckon it can work like that although it is not perfect.. i think their main issue is the tiny connector wires that burn quickly so if you dont want to spend $400(genuine) for a new one try what i did.
Did you fit genuine ones?
Well done for thinking outside the box 😉👍
@@MiracleMAX i did the first time but that one was also short lived.. the one i fixed the connection on was nongenuine. cant remember the brand but they are all, including the genuine ones, made to lower quality than the ones made 10yrs ago i reckon...
@@predragbogunovic5151 Interesting. Thanks for your comment. 👍
Thanks Max, I have an overheating problem on my 2011 t5 biturbo transporter, will check that egr coolant pump, luckily I fitted an "engine guard" temp was getting up to 100° thx
I hope this video helps. Let us know what you find! 🤔
The modern car nowadays are full of toys like these! , few days ago just I've reparing a actuator AC ,Thanks for your experience!
Thanks for watching!
What scan tool did you use? And were you able to turn on the pump with your OBD2 scanner?
I used the GScan 3.
ruclips.net/video/nt46RVDvlXA/видео.html
You need a bi-directional scan tool to be able to turn on the pump. A simple OBD scanner does not do this.
Thanks for your subscription 😊
hello,what signal is sent down the signal wire?its voltage or frequency signal or?
They use a Pulse Width Modulated signal
@@MiracleMAX
Menerjemahkan teks dengan kamera
oh pwm, I want to use this pump to circulate my motorbike's radiator 😁... thank you
@@yongkireynaldi2384 I hope it works out well for you 👍
@@MiracleMAX thank u 🙏
@@yongkireynaldi2384 You are welcome!
Good stuff cheers Max
You are welcome! 😁
Good morning sir wats ur advice my 2016 amarok starring is really hard an the i hav to keep adding coolant every 3 days
Hey Kurt,
I would start by finding out where the coolant is going. Are you able to pressure test the cooling system? If there are no external leaks, you would consider a blown head gasket. Are the glow plugs OK? That could explain the hard starting if you had an external coolant leak. Is there bubbles blowing out in the radiator with the cap off and the engine running? Make sure you do this safely as hot coolant will burn.
Here are a few techniques that might help you diagnose if it is a head gasket or not
ruclips.net/video/GjZQfMDbOBo/видео.html
ruclips.net/video/O7tjL2UqvnU/видео.html
Hey MM will the ancillary heat pump throw up the same fault as the coolant pump?
I just replaced my pump (the same one as you did) and a week later I got the same fault back and fuse blown.
So trying work out if the heater pump will cause same issue or a relay?
Hey Robert,
If you have an electric coolant pump and also an auxiliary coolant pump, these will have individual codes. The only reason a fuse will blow is due to excessively high current, beyond what the fuse is rated for. You have to look for that reason. Get an accurate wiring diagram, carefully examine where the pump relates to the blown fuse. Carry out a detailed visual examination of the wiring loom for shorts to ground (rubbing through).
Let us know how you go with your investigations 😉👍
So replaced the pump with a goss pump
Fault has gone and no more blowing fuse.
The pump from eBay had started to seize up and was hard to spin when I applied to a 12v battery to test, I believe this was causing the excessive current draw and causing the fuse to blow…
@@robertgibbs6920 Thanks for sharing Robert. Another reason for paying extra for quality parts. Well done! 😉
hi i have amarok 2014 highline code p261a cooling pump b control circuit open replaced it with new pump i’m still getting the same code car is in limp mode checked all the fuses and relays all good The car is at the mechanics at the moment he said he’s done a test on the wiring to the pump has no power any suggestion please
Hey Bill,
Have you checked the fuses & relays? Control at the relay? Ground connections? Wiring damage by mice?
max thanks for your help it was the fuse and faulty pump all done thanks for videos 🙏🙏
@@bill8947 That's good news. Always best to start with the basics
mmax whereabouts are you located thanks
NSW. If you need to contact me, you can Email me.
miraclemax3@hotmail.com
Cheers 😉
I have the same problem in my Audi A4, the new pump, I just bought it, I have the same problem, the fuse is burning, it's all right???????
If the fuse is blowing, it must mean you have a short to ground. This must be repaired.The fuse is designed to protect the circuit, so if the short is repaired, you may find the new pump will be OK
what scan tool do you use?
Hey Rose Electronics,
The main scan tool I use at the moment is a GScan 3
Hi I got Audi A3 8v 1.6 2013 I changed timing kit (new water pump replaced too ) also changed coolant bottle as well as cap twice but whenever I drive car for more then 1 hour every two or 3 weeks coolant leaking from overflow. Inside temp all ok no overheat also did pressure test headgaskit looks ok, no engine light. Any advice please
Was it overheating before? Does it have any fault codes shown on the scan tool?
@@MiracleMAX no fault codes . Temp inside fine don't show overheating only time I notice when coolant leak also heater inside car works fine
when I switch the engine off the fan runs for 5 to 10min (3 to 5 times a week), coolant only leaks from overflow hole (pipes all ok no leak)
Coolant bottle replaced twice
The coolant bottle after 20min drives gets very very hot you can't even touch but inside car temp stays normal
One garage told me to change the thermostat as well as the pump on your video and let's see , so I thought I can ask for any advice
Leaked after 3 weeks yesterday since I replaced the coolant bottle cap for the 2nd time, The coolant level is now in the middle since it last leaked ( before the leak had extra coolant in it)
Coolant leaked almost 7 to 8 times in total since I purchased the car 3 months ago, The coolant level after the leak still stays minimum or a little bit more then the minimum level
@@FTubex Do you fill the coolant bottle to between the minimum and maximum levels when cold? Is the problem that coolant is getting so high in the bottle that it is coming out of the drain out of the top of the bottle? Does it have excessive pressure built up in the cooling system? Is the bottle an overflow bottle or an expansion tank?
Yes i fill it between minimum and maximum when the engine is cold. Coolant bottle gets leak from the overflow hole on top under the cap. The bottle I got is an overflow bottle 2013 Audi s line 8v UK model.
Today when I started in the morning the coolant low level sign came up on the dashboard so I filled the coolant again
@@FTubex That looks like an expansion tank, not an overflow tank. This has the pressure cap directly on top of the tank. The cooling system must be building pressure up somewhere. Does this model use a EGR cooler?
Here's a testing method that can be used
ruclips.net/video/QfJyvzVQAI4/видео.html
Were there any resets that needed to be done after you did the belt and water pump? Are there any special bleeding procedures that need to be done? Do they have any auxiliary electric water pumps?
I always throw away those spring hose clamps too, I hate the stupid things.. we've all started pulling stuff apart only to find we were doing it wrong, I done it the other week on my wife's yaris.. I've had some fun with that thing, a rat chewed a coolant line and it got so hot the head gasket failed so I got new head bolt's, gaskets and skimmed the head and when I went to fit the head I got all the bolt's tensioned and done the first 90 degrees on bolt 1 and only got to about 60 degrees on bolt 2 when the bloody head broke off the bolt 🤬 I'll never use durapro bolts again, now I have to stuff around with the supplier and no doubt I'll be the one stuck with the cost of yet another head gasket
Hey Mark,
Sounds like you've really copped it! Getting quality parts is a real problem. I'll have up a video in a while about a nightmare of a fuel pump being replaced with a faulty new pump.
Makes our day interesting....😒
@@MiracleMAX yeah I had a problem with a new holley fuel pump on my 1979 f100, it worked fine until I got half an hour away and then it'd play up.. the symptoms look like ignition and I was chasing my tail for a while until I run a fuel line into the cab and stuck a guage on it and just drove up and down the road close to home until it played up.. the fuel pressure was going from 6psi down to -3psi as soon as it got heat soaked so I had to try to find a genuine fuel pump which fixed it.. I've had to many problems with holley stuff so I'll never buy it again, the same can be said for msd stuff, I ended up going back to the old points system because it doesn't let me down
@@markshort9098 Wow, sounds like you've had some real fun! 😉
Nice one Max, thank you!!
Cheers Rob, thanks 😉👍
Thank you
You are welcome
spring clamps are better for hoses in heat condition because adapt itself
the screw clamps might leak
Thanks for your comment
Thanks for this. Did you have to clear the fault code or did it clear itself?
After repair, it's always a good idea to clear the fault code and do a rescan
Great video but... it is a T55 Torx bit (the female is T12)
Thanks for the clarification 😉👍
That coolet pump brings a engine /glow plug light on VW BUS too
Interesting. What fault codes were logged?
P2426/0047
@@filedeeverghetinos6471 It is possible that this code may be a result of a poor connection or poor ground contact - P2426 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Cooling Valve Control Circuit Low
Perhaps this one is a coincident or relating to another issue - P0047 Turbo/Supercharger Boost Control A Circuit Low
Possible causes of this code could include:
Poor electrical connections or wiring
Malfunctioning boost control solenoid
cuál es el kilometraje aproximado de vida útil?
I can't say for sure, but they did have issues and that's why they updated the pump to a modified model.
Not a torx bit bolt
Thanks for your comment.
There are so many different variations. Can I ask what you call them?
multi spline socket. not a torx. you are welcome.
Thanks Parvez A,
It's hard to remember all the correct titles of these tool designs now-a-days.
XZN
ਇਹ ਕਲੈਂਪ ਬਹੁਤ ਹੀ ਘਟੀਆਂ ਨੇ ਪਲਾਸ ਨਾਲ ਘੁੱਟ ਕੇ ਖੋਲਣ ਵਾਲੇ
ਪੇਸ਼ਕਸ਼ ਨਾਲ ਕਸਣ ਵਾਲੇ ਠੀਕ ਰਹਿੰਦੇ ਨੇ
I have since bought a special tool to remove those troublesome hose clamps. It makes the job heaps easier.
Thanks for your comment.
not a torx bit its a tripple square
Thanks for your comment. There are so many variations of bits now, I get easily confused! 😉