One of the best videos I've seen on this topic. I like your style of explaining; Key points are nicely addressed without a lot of unnecessary verbiage. I've got a 450 sq ft cracked -up slab slope-ing at least a 1" on each side from the center. Wish me luck!
So nice to see a contractor taking such care. Just had my bathroom floor retiled and discovered when I put the new vanity in that the floor where it will sit is one inch out of level and the vanity can’t sit flush against the wall. Tiler said my floor wasn’t level to start with but old vanity was perfectly level. He said the tilers - 2 youngsters - Just follow the old floor. Hopefully, I can find an honest tiler somewhere to redo the job.
I use a company to do this for me in larger areas. Tip 1.... They use feelers cut to different heights caulked to the ground and spread the self leveling to match the height of the feeler. Tip 2.... The use a rake to move the self leveling compound around with adjustable feelers on the rake to set the max height of the pour. Self leveling flows thru the rake feelers and max height is taken care of by the rake. Tip 3.... Self leveling is NOT truly self leveling. It's mot water so it more of a flowable filler that needs raking, which is why u need height guide feelers attached to the floor so u know what heights need to be in different areas
Indeed... most people just smooth out the surface rather than levelling the surface, you need pins , place to place to stick out and show the level need it.
You know Jeff, those Lowe's 5 gallon buckets work wonderfully out in the garden space too... whether to carry taller plants, carry potting mix products, or to flip bottom side up upon which to sit and contemplate Jeff's next greatest video, a total multifunction all self contained tool unit. Happy Sunday evening! -Bob...
I always wondered how far you could go with that self-leveling concrete. Great video. I can't decide whether your shopping, do-it-yourself, or condo collapse videos are the most interesting, so I guess I'll keep watching them all until I decide. :)
Seeing how bad the floor was scares me as to how the bathroom even held up for any amount of time. Thanks for fixing your knowledgeable skills in fixing that! Bravo
Yes people do it all the time on plywood floor I would make sure that your plywood floor does not move if you need to add sister Joists under ir to stiffen it up then do it. And make sure you roll primer onto the wood 1st, and seal up any joints in wood and perimeter before you were you pour the self leveler because when it is 1st mixed it's just like water and it will run down the cracks.
Drypack is too absorbent as it is intended to be in the base of a wet shower and pass water through it to the weeping holes. This application with the gravel is exactly how the manufacturer specifies for a pour of a couple of inches like this was.
I have not done that. You can use dry pack floor mud, just like we do for bathtubs, and we screed around with a 2 foot level, over and over until it is in shape, usually like a volcano shape.
That's not true you can still get lipid just by setting the tiles and the thin set right next to each other if do each other if one sets down a little deeper than the tile next to it. Does just ensure that we're going to have a nice even top surface
@@jeffostroff are your tiles different thicknesses? Clip/wedge systems are really for plank tile, because of bananna'd/warp/bowed tiles. No one use Clips or wedges prior to roughly 2010 in the United States....they got big in my area around 2014 ish. People set tile without Clips or wedges for a very long time before clip/wedge systems were available.
How would you contain the self-leveler if the 1.5 inch slope is greatest towards the bathtub and the tub is on 2x3 shims on the concrete substrate? Do you just spray more foam to prevent it from going underneath the tub?
Yes if the tub is level, I would try to dam up the area to prevent the leveler from going underneath. As you saw here, the floor was sloped like the old batman sets and we added gravel in the corner to level the entire sloped floor before installing the bathtub.
@@jeffostroff After two pours, its now level, but I still need to raise the whole floor a couple inches, then 3/4" plywood, then vinyl sheeting. If I frame the floor with 2x3s, will the self-leveler accept screws for fastening the wood? On a side note, can a third pour be added on top of the second should I decide to go this route?
Nice video. When you talked about the level requirements it was really flat that was needed. Tile doesn’t need to be level. Think shower floor! Of course that floor was so batmanesque, level was really called for.
No, level really is mandatory for a bathroom, and maybe even for a kitchen. A bathtub that has its drain opening too high (flat but not level floor) won’t drain properly. I’ve seen this with my own eyes on a property I bought at sheriff sale. The tub had to be removed to first get the floor leveled off. The sink also has to drain, but won’t be as bad as a tub that is not level. If the toilet is not level, it could become uncomfortable to sit on it when putting it to use. Level your bathroom floor always. There might have to be a transition area near the door where level isn’t perfect to prevent trip hazards, but wherever the fixtures will go get it level.
Because my kitchen was low at the doors, I sloped the floor about 3/4" over 11' If the back wall were the low point it would have been way, way easier to prep...I would have just filled it to level. Running a long steady slope is tough for an amateur.
It's called SAN JUAN DECORATIVE PORCELAIN TILE they bought it from Floor and decor www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-ceramic-decoratives/san-juan-decorative-porcelain-tile-100286988.html
The tub should sit perfectly level on the floor, it is already shaped on the inside to drain the water towards the drain the drain it has the correct slope.
Ugh, I should've done this, but I put down new linoleum and put my bathrooms back together, eager to tap back into the rental revenue stream... But mine are both on wood floors. My upstairs was Terrazzo which was cracked and had had a hole knocked in it to put in a new tub in the 1970s or '80s, so I busted it out and my buddy put down plywood.
This was a sloppy job by the builder it was 2 and a 1/2 inches out of level from one and that small bathroom to the other this was the actual house foundation that was poured out of level
30 years of remodeling here and you should have poured the really low spot first and let set then poured the whole floor after to make it level. Would get much better results.
fortunatly in bathrooms and leak spill locations you dont want level you want diagonal to allow water to move tword a drain location especialy with toilets an extra drain to the sideand lean action to slope tword because toilets get clogged and flushing dont help level just keeeps the problem so ya dont want square middle level in a drain needed flooring kitchens and bathrooms are beter with a lean to a control location if gapping the top tile allows for grout vent as tiny space for little drainsand fine hose as a fense work or minmal basic ditch line angel to small drain under piping the purpos of tile shims to provide center line roofing angels for slight rise to lower either angle the whole floor or between every two high low high low next to unoticeable makes spill control so you actualy want an off set lean that was still pretty bad but looks like ya needed a under flashing basen screen the top fold the ends and seal to make the flatest drain gutter possible set along the drain angel of the room even if only given pen holes along one tile line it goes into the flashing utilizes room angel which can be a little leanient on exact angel some might want faster drain time thats up to the home owner prefurence more angel is obviously faster but thats the purpose of a lean flooring and flashing and screens to make thin tile gutters either fense like or single edge wall lean to even if ya done a flat shim thin pipe aka flat pipe makes the lean and vent holes unoticeable even fish tank hoseing can work as both grout line measure and vent drain just depend how much the buyers willing to spend even for diy tube it one line for each row make a hole at regular intervals set tile and cover the rest with grout fisher tubes are cheap a little glue holes atop can be very tiny and still work other wise flashing if you cant do folds at least cut two matching strips and sealer along the edges to make tunnel otherwise fold edges to shim or paint stick measure and weld or press together tape then paint on table top epoxy cuz there aint anything like it yet so its still diy made
@@jeffostroff your welcome..oh i dont sugest if your doing thin vynils or sticker tiles with no gapper design better tiles are for wet spot floors and decent gaping like fish tube makes perfect for measure width and simplist a few dot holes stapel in middle cross gaps if your shiming every other row should angel to hose area tubb area generaly makes best for the full room angle tword tub wit one drain line gap since tub are habit of spatter spills little tack needle holes tiniest drimel drill in tube makes simple to attatch to any plumbing not heavey still works even that small
Lol yes good one I have heard that a few times before and I have also had other people tell me Charlie Sheen I sound like him I got a lot of people saying Charlie Sheen. rIP Ray Liotta
The mountain of caulk was just abysmal looking. It must have been a homeowner build as I can't imagine any new built getting a pass with a finish like that.
I DO NOT recommend pouring larger areas by yourself, this stuff is not DIY friendly My personal experience was very unforgiving and spent 6 hours chiseling it off the floor
So you're def supposed to mix your gravel with the concrete BEFORE you pour. The stuff is thick and will leave air trapped in the gravel the way you did it
No this had to be a precise pour it was perfectly fine to pour the self leveler over the rocks. only those last few inches across the wall needed to be poured thicker. There was no air trapped in there. You never put rocks into self leveler or it will not flow.
One of the best videos I've seen on this topic. I like your style of explaining; Key points are nicely addressed without a lot of unnecessary verbiage. I've got a 450 sq ft cracked -up slab slope-ing at least a 1" on each side from the center. Wish me luck!
So nice to see a contractor taking such care. Just had my bathroom floor retiled and discovered when I put the new vanity in that the floor where it will sit is one inch out of level and the vanity can’t sit flush against the wall. Tiler said my floor wasn’t level to start with but old vanity was perfectly level. He said the tilers - 2 youngsters - Just follow the old floor. Hopefully, I can find an honest tiler somewhere to redo the job.
I use a company to do this for me in larger areas. Tip 1.... They use feelers cut to different heights caulked to the ground and spread the self leveling to match the height of the feeler. Tip 2.... The use a rake to move the self leveling compound around with adjustable feelers on the rake to set the max height of the pour. Self leveling flows thru the rake feelers and max height is taken care of by the rake. Tip 3.... Self leveling is NOT truly self leveling. It's mot water so it more of a flowable filler that needs raking, which is why u need height guide feelers attached to the floor so u know what heights need to be in different areas
great points
Any videos on this process using the feelers?? Cant find an example anywhere
Indeed... most people just smooth out the surface rather than levelling the surface, you need pins , place to place to stick out and show the level need it.
You know Jeff, those Lowe's 5 gallon buckets work wonderfully out in the garden space too... whether to carry taller plants, carry potting mix products, or to flip bottom side up upon which to sit and contemplate Jeff's next greatest video, a total multifunction all self contained tool unit. Happy Sunday evening! -Bob...
Thanks Bob!
I use old paint and drywall compound buckets that I first clean out. Lowest cost approach, and those come with lids too.
I always wondered how far you could go with that self-leveling concrete. Great video. I can't decide whether your shopping, do-it-yourself, or condo collapse videos are the most interesting, so I guess I'll keep watching them all until I decide. :)
Great choice!
Very, very nice work! I’m so impatient, you taught me a lot from your video! Thank you!
Great video though I have Don it a few times a refresher is always helpful,
Glad you enjoyed it thanks Kirk!
Seeing how bad the floor was scares me as to how the bathroom even held up for any amount of time. Thanks for fixing your knowledgeable skills in fixing that! Bravo
There was nothing structurally wrong with the floor, it's just that the builder did not build at level when they poured the concrete slab.
Great video! Really will help me on a job . I'm from London
Nice work Jeff. You provide such detail and it is much appreciated.
I appreciate that!
What great memories the old batman shows. Wham/ Bam. 😄👍
Luckily the bathroom no longer looks like the set of batman
Great job Jeff !
Thanks for explaining in detail !
Glad to help Dan, thanks for watching too!
Very good video!
Thank you very much!
Thanks for the video Jeff!
Thanks, I'm glad you liked it!
Another helpful video. Thanks!
Glad to hear it!
Well done good pointers
Better than it was !
That floor is spot on level now, was glad to get that done, took 2 days
Wow, your videos never disappoint 🤩 nice work Jeff!
Thank you so much Isabel I'm glad you liked it
Loved the Batman reference. Lol
If whole house sagging may need to level foundation?
No only this end of the foundation. It is not sagging, it was sloped that way by the builder. The walls and corners in that bathroom were off too
Nice video! Question plz, if to use this self leveling compound on painted concrete, do you need to remove all that paint first ?
great info Jeff but lol can you use that on a plywood floor ?
Yes, just seal it well and dam it up well. I saw.it on This Old Houy
Just make sure the floor has support for the extra weight.
@@bobh6728 Yes, I always sistered another support just on general principal.
Yes people do it all the time on plywood floor I would make sure that your plywood floor does not move if you need to add sister Joists under ir to stiffen it up then do it. And make sure you roll primer onto the wood 1st, and seal up any joints in wood and perimeter before you were you pour the self leveler because when it is 1st mixed it's just like water and it will run down the cracks.
with the floor being off by that much, would it be better to use a drypack, like we do for a shower base, instead of gravel?
Drypack is too absorbent as it is intended to be in the base of a wet shower and pass water through it to the weeping holes. This application with the gravel is exactly how the manufacturer specifies for a pour of a couple of inches like this was.
@@jeffostroff Thank You!
How many bags of self leveling was used for this project?
I used 2 bags on the initial pour and 2 bags on the next day for 2nd pour.
Hi, have you done a video on how to make a floor with a pitch or slope for water drainage? Thx
I have not done that. You can use dry pack floor mud, just like we do for bathtubs, and we screed around with a 2 foot level, over and over until it is in shape, usually like a volcano shape.
I'm a quiet abserver but I love your channel ., what would you do about an imperfect pour on a outside countertop.
If it is not too out of level, I would build a frame and pour self leveler, but you may have to put tile to something else to hide the seams
Cool video, you didn't really need to use Clips with that little of a tile on such a good prepped slab though
That's not true you can still get lipid just by setting the tiles and the thin set right next to each other if do each other if one sets down a little deeper than the tile next to it. Does just ensure that we're going to have a nice even top surface
@@jeffostroff are your tiles different thicknesses? Clip/wedge systems are really for plank tile, because of bananna'd/warp/bowed tiles. No one use Clips or wedges prior to roughly 2010 in the United States....they got big in my area around 2014 ish. People set tile without Clips or wedges for a very long time before clip/wedge systems were available.
@@jeffostroff any response?
@@BonBon770 yah your 1000 percent right. I'm construction 30 years
I never did see any requirements in the Fl.Building code or IBC code. So I would get overuled when wrighting up sloped or uneven floors.
How would you contain the self-leveler if the 1.5 inch slope is greatest towards the bathtub and the tub is on 2x3 shims on the concrete substrate? Do you just spray more foam to prevent it from going underneath the tub?
Yes if the tub is level, I would try to dam up the area to prevent the leveler from going underneath. As you saw here, the floor was sloped like the old batman sets and we added gravel in the corner to level the entire sloped floor before installing the bathtub.
@@jeffostroff After two pours, its now level, but I still need to raise the whole floor a couple inches, then 3/4" plywood, then vinyl sheeting. If I frame the floor with 2x3s, will the self-leveler accept screws for fastening the wood?
On a side note, can a third pour be added on top of the second should I decide to go this route?
a pro here....
Thanks for watching Jack, your thoughts?
Hi Jeff , do you work on kitchen counters , I would like to get my kitchen remodel…
Nice video.
When you talked about the level requirements it was really flat that was needed. Tile doesn’t need to be level. Think shower floor!
Of course that floor was so batmanesque, level was really called for.
No, level really is mandatory for a bathroom, and maybe even for a kitchen.
A bathtub that has its drain opening too high (flat but not level floor) won’t drain properly. I’ve seen this with my own eyes on a property I bought at sheriff sale. The tub had to be removed to first get the floor leveled off. The sink also has to drain, but won’t be as bad as a tub that is not level. If the toilet is not level, it could become uncomfortable to sit on it when putting it to use.
Level your bathroom floor always. There might have to be a transition area near the door where level isn’t perfect to prevent trip hazards, but wherever the fixtures will go get it level.
Yes we often use the two interchangeably even though they are not the same
Because my kitchen was low at the doors, I sloped the floor about 3/4" over 11' If the back wall were the low point it would have been way, way easier to prep...I would have just filled it to level. Running a long steady slope is tough for an amateur.
That floor tile is wild. Is there a name for that “pattern”?
It's called SAN JUAN DECORATIVE PORCELAIN TILE
they bought it from Floor and decor www.flooranddecor.com/porcelain-ceramic-decoratives/san-juan-decorative-porcelain-tile-100286988.html
its hideous... wouldve been better off just having the self leveler as the floor
Seems like you want the tub to slope a little towards the drain?
The tub should sit perfectly level on the floor, it is already shaped on the inside to drain the water towards the drain the drain it has the correct slope.
I'm not sure why you had to do two pours to get the floor level? Could you not have done a single pour and leveled the whole floor like that?
Craftsmanship.
Yeah man!
If this is just for laying flooring in a room, you dont have to have the floor completely level. It just needs to be flat
Ugh, I should've done this, but I put down new linoleum and put my bathrooms back together, eager to tap back into the rental revenue stream... But mine are both on wood floors.
My upstairs was Terrazzo which was cracked and had had a hole knocked in it to put in a new tub in the 1970s or '80s, so I busted it out and my buddy put down plywood.
Is concrete primer needed between pours?
No you only prime the floor once, roll it on, wait to dry, then pour concrete.
You should get into custom building.
This is sort of custom
same thing
What causes these floors to slope? I’m looking at a home that has two bedroom at the rear of the home with a noticeable sink
This was a sloppy job by the builder it was 2 and a 1/2 inches out of level from one and that small bathroom to the other this was the actual house foundation that was poured out of level
@@jeffostroff okok, other than that. What could be other possibilities
30 years of remodeling here and you should have poured the really low spot first and let set then poured the whole floor after to make it level. Would get much better results.
I did pour the low section first.
why you so un level after first pour? if you had worked it and added more and roller it it would be level
good job .. but who the hell chose those tiles lol
fortunatly in bathrooms and leak spill locations you dont want level you want diagonal to allow water to move tword a drain location especialy with toilets an extra drain to the sideand lean action to slope tword because toilets get clogged and flushing dont help level just keeeps the problem so ya dont want square middle level in a drain needed flooring kitchens and bathrooms are beter with a lean to a control location if gapping the top tile allows for grout vent as tiny space for little drainsand fine hose as a fense work or minmal basic ditch line angel to small drain under piping the purpos of tile shims to provide center line roofing angels for slight rise to lower either angle the whole floor or between every two high low high low next to unoticeable makes spill control so you actualy want an off set lean that was still pretty bad but looks like ya needed a under flashing basen screen the top fold the ends and seal to make the flatest drain gutter possible set along the drain angel of the room even if only given pen holes along one tile line it goes into the flashing utilizes room angel which can be a little leanient on exact angel some might want faster drain time thats up to the home owner prefurence more angel is obviously faster but thats the purpose of a lean flooring and flashing and screens to make thin tile gutters either fense like or single edge wall lean to even if ya done a flat shim thin pipe aka flat pipe makes the lean and vent holes unoticeable even fish tank hoseing can work as both grout line measure and vent drain just depend how much the buyers willing to spend even for diy tube it one line for each row make a hole at regular intervals set tile and cover the rest with grout fisher tubes are cheap a little glue holes atop can be very tiny and still work other wise flashing if you cant do folds at least cut two matching strips and sealer along the edges to make tunnel otherwise fold edges to shim or paint stick measure and weld or press together tape then paint on table top epoxy cuz there aint anything like it yet so its still diy made
Thanks Mike!
@@jeffostroff your welcome..oh i dont sugest if your doing thin vynils or sticker tiles with no gapper design better tiles are for wet spot floors and decent gaping like fish tube makes perfect for measure width and simplist a few dot holes stapel in middle cross gaps if your shiming every other row should angel to hose area tubb area generaly makes best for the full room angle tword tub wit one drain line gap since tub are habit of spatter spills little tack needle holes tiniest drimel drill in tube makes simple to attatch to any plumbing not heavey still works even that small
Thank you for the longest run-on sentence ever! I stopped reading after the first 30 words.
U sound like ray Liotta in goodfellas
Lol yes good one I have heard that a few times before and I have also had other people tell me Charlie Sheen I sound like him I got a lot of people saying Charlie Sheen. rIP Ray Liotta
It may not be the builder's fault a 30 year home may have foundation settling
This was not foundation settling, the rest of the house was level and there were no cracks on the foundation floor
Probably the most terrible uneven floor and fix. The way they shimmed the toliet was ridiculous
The mountain of caulk was just abysmal looking. It must have been a homeowner build as I can't imagine any new built getting a pass with a finish like that.
I DO NOT recommend pouring larger areas by yourself, this stuff is not DIY friendly
My personal experience was very unforgiving and spent 6 hours chiseling it off the floor
Same. Set my project back days.
All the nice work yet they chose that hideous tile smh
Everyone has their own style
Don't paint yourself in a corner
I had no problem escaping
BTW: great explanation but it takes real skill to do what you do and definitely not a DIY job.
No this is easily a DIY Job! All you have to do is mix fast, dump fast, and rake it somewhat flat and it does the rest
Weed doesn't impair. That's nonsense. Amazing we cant differentiate alcohol from cannabis when it comes to driving etc.
So you're def supposed to mix your gravel with the concrete BEFORE you pour. The stuff is thick and will leave air trapped in the gravel the way you did it
No this had to be a precise pour it was perfectly fine to pour the self leveler over the rocks. only those last few inches across the wall needed to be poured thicker. There was no air trapped in there. You never put rocks into self leveler or it will not flow.
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