Brilliant video - thank you SO much for taking the time to create this. I managed to replace 5 sticky keys in just over an hour .. with 2 cups of tea (but no wagon wheel) ... and a Tesco's cheap screwdriver set. I'm a girlie with no DIY skills, so if I do it (with the aide of your video) it anyone can! Thanks Brian.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! I have serversl piano students that will be happy to have a restored keyboard ‘D’key and now I know how to check/replace all the keys if need be!
If I may offer a suggestion... For the key you believe the plastic has been 'distorted', slide a very thin piece of wood, and use a hot hair air dryer to heat it up slightly for a minute or so. Turn off the dryer but, leave the thin piece of wood in place until the key has cooled off. See if that works. It worked for me. May save you a few bucks.
Many thanks for taking the time to make this- helped me a lot replacing a sticky C key. Turns out the cause was some gunk stuck to the side. Replaced it since I ordered a new key anyway. Works a treat!
OH MY!! I've not played my CVP-205 for 5-6yrs without sticky keys needing cleaned. Can't wait to tackle it now, you've made it seem much more simpler. I didn't realize how "plastic" the keys are. Mine feel so weighted I'd not guessed they're made like this. Bought mine new in 2003, which was many MANY years I waited to get such a nice one, now amazing how long that's been. Anyways, Thanks for your time making this, MUCH Appreciated.
Hi Brian, thanks a lot for your instructions. I just swaped the same sticky /saggy E key with another one from the treeble section... and now both work as a charm :-) ... ! It took me (only) one hour altogether, thanks to you.
Many thsnks! I have a CVP307 and I have a couple issues with the keyboard. One is the sticky key but after opened the top and looked inside, I found the the stopper felt came unglued causing the hammer hung on the stopper. I cleaned and reglueed and that fixed the issue. My other issue is the lound note when soft press the key. It sounds like you're slamming the key hard. It happened on any instruments on some of the keys from upper part of the keyboard section to the second last G key. I'm wondering if this can be fixed DIY. Kindly appreciate your help or any suggestions Thanks.
Any tips on why the keys would have a bit of free play to slide backwards and forwards after coming out? The ones I haven't removed are all very tightly stable, but those I've removed and replaced seem to have varying degrees of movement now.
Hi there I’ll try and describe the best I can! When you replace the key, hold it higher at the back and hold the front tight up against the the stopper. As you lower the back of the key down to where it locks in place, the spring it will catch in place. You can then ease it forward a little to click it into place and there will backwards and forwards movement. Hope this helps!
The plastic in the keys gets broken or partly broken at the back of the keys which makes them less tight and then they dont go straight down which makes them stick. im trying to repair all my lose keys with epoxy glue, will see if it works tomorrow when its dry
I acquired a free CLP-950 in which roughly half the white keys were broken. All at the pivot joint. I managed to fix all of them using various methods. If you can find the broken pieces, you can try to use super glue or epoxy to reattach. I've also used some strips of flat metal bent into a staple shape to help keep it together. That pivot joint needs to pretty strong. If not, the key will angle to the side and feel "sticky". The best method so far is 3D printing a new joint. I actually just found this method the other day. It requires cutting the key just above the key letter where it starts to slope downwards and to one side. If you hold the printed part up to the key, you'll be able to see exactly where to cut. I used a hack saw. Clean it up a bit with a metal file or sand paper, then use some epoxy to attach the 3D printed piece to the original key. So far, mine have held together surprisingly well. Also, since you're only printing the end of the key that's hidden by the cover, your keys will still look exactly the same once reassembled. The 3D model came from the Thingiverse website. It's titled Yamaha Clavinova Key Joint. Keep in mind, there are two different joints: left facing and right facing. I believe you use the right joint for keys C, D, F, G and the left facing joint for keys A, B, E. In case it helps anyone, I used a 0.4 nozzle with supports. I used PETG, but I think PLA would work fine. Make sure you clean up the edges of both the print and the key where you'll be applying epoxy. Seems like more work than it really is, and totally worth it if you have 5+ keys to repair, since they seem to be about $10-12 each.
I don't have the patience for this. I'd rather pay a professional to do it right for me. I'd screw it up worse. I've got middle c, c#, d, d# taking five minutes to warm up before they respond correctly.
Brilliant video - thank you SO much for taking the time to create this. I managed to replace 5 sticky keys in just over an hour .. with 2 cups of tea (but no wagon wheel) ... and a Tesco's cheap screwdriver set. I'm a girlie with no DIY skills, so if I do it (with the aide of your video) it anyone can! Thanks Brian.
Many thanks for posting this; just repaired my daughter's Clavinova with a sticky middle C as a result.
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!!! I have serversl piano students that will be happy to have a restored keyboard ‘D’key and now I know how to check/replace all the keys if need be!
If I may offer a suggestion... For the key you believe the plastic has been 'distorted', slide a very thin piece of wood, and use a hot hair air dryer to heat it up slightly for a minute or so.
Turn off the dryer but, leave the thin piece of wood in place until the key has cooled off.
See if that works. It worked for me. May save you a few bucks.
Many thanks for taking the time to make this- helped me a lot replacing a sticky C key. Turns out the cause was some gunk stuck to the side. Replaced it since I ordered a new key anyway. Works a treat!
i just wanna say thank you very very much this video is very helpful for me.
OH MY!! I've not played my CVP-205 for 5-6yrs without sticky keys needing cleaned. Can't wait to tackle it now, you've made it seem much more simpler. I didn't realize how "plastic" the keys are. Mine feel so weighted I'd not guessed they're made like this. Bought mine new in 2003, which was many MANY years I waited to get such a nice one, now amazing how long that's been. Anyways, Thanks for your time making this, MUCH Appreciated.
You explain exact mine. I just bought used one good condition but i’m so beginner i have no idea about piano problems. Did you fixed yours?
Hi Brian, thanks a lot for your instructions. I just swaped the same sticky /saggy E key with another one from the treeble section... and now both work as a charm :-) ... ! It took me (only) one hour altogether, thanks to you.
Bernard Gelly your most welcome
@@briansmith246 you're*
Great video. Thank you for taking the time to record this.
People are strange.
Grazie 1000!
thanks for your video
thank you! :)
Thank you. This also worked great for my Korg Japanese keyboard. Do you have any suggestions on where to order new keys? I can’t find any online.
Many thsnks! I have a CVP307 and I have a couple issues with the keyboard. One is the sticky key but after opened the top and looked inside, I found the the stopper felt came unglued causing the hammer hung on the stopper. I cleaned and reglueed and that fixed the issue. My other issue is the lound note when soft press the key. It sounds like you're slamming the key hard. It happened on any instruments on some of the keys from upper part of the keyboard section to the second last G key. I'm wondering if this can be fixed DIY. Kindly appreciate your help or any suggestions Thanks.
Where do you order new keys from?
Any tips on why the keys would have a bit of free play to slide backwards and forwards after coming out? The ones I haven't removed are all very tightly stable, but those I've removed and replaced seem to have varying degrees of movement now.
Hi there
I’ll try and describe the best I can!
When you replace the key, hold it higher at the back and hold the front tight up against the the stopper. As you lower the back of the key down to where it locks in place, the spring it will catch in place. You can then ease it forward a little to click it into place and there will backwards and forwards movement.
Hope this helps!
Hold on, let me get some tea first
Will this work on the CGP 1000 too ???
The plastic in the keys gets broken or partly broken at the back of the keys which makes them less tight and then they dont go straight down which makes them stick. im trying to repair all my lose keys with epoxy glue, will see if it works tomorrow when its dry
how did it turned out. Is glueing a option had holds for long? Or is buying a replacement key still the best option?
I acquired a free CLP-950 in which roughly half the white keys were broken. All at the pivot joint. I managed to fix all of them using various methods.
If you can find the broken pieces, you can try to use super glue or epoxy to reattach. I've also used some strips of flat metal bent into a staple shape to help keep it together. That pivot joint needs to pretty strong. If not, the key will angle to the side and feel "sticky".
The best method so far is 3D printing a new joint. I actually just found this method the other day. It requires cutting the key just above the key letter where it starts to slope downwards and to one side. If you hold the printed part up to the key, you'll be able to see exactly where to cut. I used a hack saw. Clean it up a bit with a metal file or sand paper, then use some epoxy to attach the 3D printed piece to the original key. So far, mine have held together surprisingly well. Also, since you're only printing the end of the key that's hidden by the cover, your keys will still look exactly the same once reassembled.
The 3D model came from the Thingiverse website. It's titled Yamaha Clavinova Key Joint. Keep in mind, there are two different joints: left facing and right facing. I believe you use the right joint for keys C, D, F, G and the left facing joint for keys A, B, E.
In case it helps anyone, I used a 0.4 nozzle with supports. I used PETG, but I think PLA would work fine. Make sure you clean up the edges of both the print and the key where you'll be applying epoxy.
Seems like more work than it really is, and totally worth it if you have 5+ keys to repair, since they seem to be about $10-12 each.
thank you
how i must level the panel?
I don't have the patience for this. I'd rather pay a professional to do it right for me. I'd screw it up worse. I've got middle c, c#, d, d# taking five minutes to warm up before they respond correctly.
Talk too much.
Then watch something else