Hand Turn 5,000ft-lbs?! $60 vs $4,000 Torque Multiplier
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- Опубликовано: 26 сен 2024
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Are the hand operated torque multipliers we see from time to time ACTUALLY multiplying torque like they say. Sure you might have to spin it 64 times in one end to get 1 turn out, but does that mean it's really multiplying things 64 times? What about tools with an advertised torque ratio, is it useful to use a torque wrench in to get a certain value out using that figure? Are the cracy prices at the top justified? Today we aim to find out by testing an Amazon option like NEIKO PRO 03715B vs the likes of USA Snap-On, Wright Tools and more.
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As always, the creator of this channel works in product development for Astro Tools, always consider multiple sources when looking at a tool!
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Happy days, guys. We're told the Wright $4k one can be found under Proto USA for a mere $2,900 amzn.to/4bS2vwu Can't afford NOT to buy it :P
If this comment gets a single like from anyone we'll buy more torque multipliers, these were stupid fun
Yes! MORE BEANS!
I have the proto version. It’s a game changer when you can’t fit your inch drive impact in on really tight bolts.
There are a couple used units posted up on eBay, coming from India, for $1299 w/free shipping. Sounds like TTC needs one for the arsenal
I have 2 requests for tests. The new air impacts from Walmart, Amazon and Harbor Freight and new high torque impacts from Amazon please
Mammoth makes a nice one I paid 300 for it. It's a 12 :1 torque output. Maxed out at 2k torque. It saved us thousands of dollars when I pulled it out to turn a rod inside a press.
Now we gotta allow the good idea fairy to provide a visit, and drive a torque multiplier with a torque multiplier
Yes please
Yes. See I'd the pepper grinders can add up to more torque for less money than the $4000 tool!
Inception
Yeah I want to apply 50,000 foot pounds of torque with my hand
Torqueception
Finally found what Jiffy Lube uses to tighten drain plugs .
...and those crappy tiny little oil filters.
@@mond000 I've got bad news. There's only 1 kind of oil filter for your car's engine, so if it's a different size than last time, it's not the right oil filter now, or it wasn't earlier.
The secret is to use an impact wrench. The plug will spin fast, then it turn very slow, then it will spin really fast. That's when you know it's done.
LOL! You're done alright... Or should I say your car's drain plug bolt 🔩 is done!
@@shawn576 Yes, if Jiffy does it right, not only will you have to replace the drain plug, you will also have to rethread the oil pan. And, even if they stop the impact wrench short, you will still have a plug that's very hard to remove & the threads will be stretched.
"Anyways, here's us using an impact wrench."😂😂😂
Heck yeah 😂
I laughed out loud at this 😂
I choked on my soda
Frank Reynolds energy.
@@cpthornman "So anyways, I started blasting"😆
If you stack all of these together you might be able to remove a Honda crank bolt.
Actually the neiko will take that right out. A primary reason I got mine was to deal with m16 crank bolts TTY on bmw.
We used a Snap-On 3/4" breaker bar and a 10' pipe for our CR-V. Lifted the car off the jackstand before it let go. Scary stuff.
@@PatrickKQ4HBD I use my IR 3/4" drive gun, one blip of the trigger and it's off.
I can't believe the first one you opened even works. Sand cast gears... amazing.
I made a gagging noise when he opened that first case. The fact that it does 1100 at all is a damn miracle.
That was the second one.
The finest chinese sand though!
That thing is ugly even by cheapo Chinese tool standards. Looks like something an archaeologist would dig up from the bronze age - except the quality of the alloy used would probably be better if it was from the bronze age.
The more expensive 2nd one was the poor quality pepper grinder
So that chain is an incredibly dangerous spring, and if you guys do this again, please, use a solid, noncompressable stop for holding the reaction arm. As a Millwright in a steel mill, when torque like this goes wrong with sprung restraints, people can die. I have seen stuff go straight through cinderblock walls. Be safe.
When it’s too sketchy for even the millwrights you know it’s dangerous.
LOL! Don't ever watch someone pull a frame then, that's way more sketchy with a chain and spring action. Especially with modern high strength steel frame members.
@@brianwelch1579 Like vehicle frame straightening? Naw, that's light work stuff. The real fear for me is playing with the 60,000 BAR hydraulic jacks. That stuff you quadruple check and still have a few sweats. And everyone jumps when it finally gets things moving!
they were lifting the unit off the ground so that was no good then ripping it off the base. the chain to the body was the best choice however they should have got gr100 chain of adequate size . that stuff looked like gr30
@@ronblack7870 I disagree. I understand your point of view, as this seems like the easiest and cheapest solution, but I disagree that it is that safe. If they want to play with the big torque, I think they need to make sure they have the equipment to deal with it properly. For example, our work benches where we routinely torque bolts to 1900 lb/ft, are all 1" thick steel plate tops that have anchor points in them to mount framework and can be used to brace a reaction arm against. Connection points rated for many tons of load and build up almost no sprung energy. It's just not worth the risk of playing with it if you don't need too, and chain is for sure the lowest on the list to try and contain an unknown force. A link goes and it all goes launching. Better slings, be it nylon or steel, at least there is feedback. But better to have the ability to fold the tool in half knowing that you are safe. That all from a simple bench that will last forever. Easy call in my book.
A couple of us broke 2 $13k torque multipliers one night trying to remove die bed bolts. They wouldn't let us cut the bolts, cuz they were special order, until they saw the 2 broken multipliers. lol
What bolts?
@@ENEN-tz6eg 4 upper die bed bolts in a ajax 2500ton press that hold the bed to the machine. I can't remember what size they were exactly but i want to say they were like 3 3/4 inch bolts.
@@TheFallenAngel13524 goddamn. Thanks for the info
They wuz college boys for sure .... "NOOO, those bolts are expensive"
clearly you should have welded those 2 torque multipliers together and make a $26k torque exponentiater - something wouldve come off for sure
What would happen if you connected the output of one multiplier to the input to the next? Chain all the multipliers and you'll be able to twist spacetime.
Be able to move the universe
Just gotta get past the backlash.
They all have pretty low max input torque numbers, so you'd always blow up the second one in the set, and all following if they get that far.
Snap on actually recommends doing this and I'm sure it will worth with the neiko as well. It's convenient that the output of the smaller matches the input of the bigger. Snap on has three sizes. You can't get more over all output than the biggest it just makes it much easier.
Did that on very large bolts all the time. Had to torque to 2400 ftlbs.
The $4k Wright multiplier is really handy to use with a pneumatic nutrunner. Ours is a 25:1 ratio, and with an Ingersoll Rand 9RSQ83 nutrunner, it's 300 rpm & 82 inch-pounds input, 12 rpm & 170 ft-lbs out. Moves stuff quickly.
We use generally hydraulic or electric versions of these in structural steel to do final torque, after snugging large or particularly important bolts we will go either 1/3rd or 1/2 a turn (depending on bolt length) to reach final torque, this is what we do on roadway gantries, large road signs, refineries, tunnels, mining equipment, etc.
I worked at an ethylene-oxide plant one time using a hydraulic torque multiplier to break loose the bolts holding the catalytic chamber together.
Huge bolts, about 70 or 90 or so of them and they had to be cracked loose 8 at a time - so hydraulics running to 8 reaction arms.
It was a major job, took days for a dozen guys just to do that.
same here..... HY-TORQ
Seen a few guys pinch fingers with the hy torque, scary!
Lol, its a small world because I make em! Hytorc Versa Slims?
I work in a hydraulic cylinder manufacturing plant, we use electric motor driven torque multipliers for the piston nuts, crazy how tight they can get accurately
at 1:04 When talking about price and said "and our own Snap-On situated right in the middle" I perked up.
You have to Bart Simpson Megaphone these things.....one into another.
Infinite torque!!
you aren't tightening the bolt clockwise, you're spinning the earth counter-clockwise below you
awesome reference lol
I’d love to see them stacked!
We used one to test slip torque on drivetrain flanges for muscle cars. We often go well above 2000 lb-ft. We can then take the torque required to slip the joint and the tension created by bolts holding the flanges together to calculate to coefficient of friction of the flanges.
We have a Proto J6252 torque multiplier at work that says it goes up to 8,000 ft-lbs, lets just say we have shattered 2" B7 grade studs with it when they just didn't want to come free. It has 1 1/2" input and output drive squares.
I definitely want to see more of the pepper grinders since they're so cheap. Maybe there's a low-cost good-quality version out there?
That would be neat to see. It's pretty rare I encounter a fastener I can't use the torch on when the ugga dugga and the breaker bar won't move it, but having a fairly cheap tool in the bottom drawer for just such an emergency would be smart (especially if you know which one isnt total garbage)
Grams of pepper per second is a metric my life needs
I've run ground screws in with peppergrinders, sustained torque over 1000ftlb for over 20 revolutions, over 24 groundscrews. Used amilwaukee b4-32 to drive it and an 8'pole as the reaction arm. Failure mode has been snapping the reaction arm off
@@rotorhead5000 AME makes the nut loosener for like $100 we use them where we cant use heat. 58 to 1
I have the 60$ version, works great on semi lug nuts in the farm when needed out in the field away from air compressor, small package but works great!
It's definitely a farmer's tool. If it breaks, oh well get another at that price. For how often you need it, Chinesium gears are fine. Still, that Neiko sounds tempting. Easier on the wrists for sure.
It's not the size it's how you use it
As a semi truck driver i can say these things are priceless. Recently i swap to 3/4 makita impact but i still carry one of these in the cab. Nothing is more frustrating than fighting to loosen the nuts of the wheel on the side of the highway. Love this channel
Love Grandpa's 1/2" Craftsman breaker bar! I bought one about 45-50 yrs ago,still haven't a use it all the time! Love the old Craftsman USA stuff!
My new protos are pretty sweet but I would definitely love to have one of those old craftsman USA's.
And here is us using an impact....😂
That made me literally laugh out loud.
This tool are not meant to be used with an impact...WE'RE GONNA TEST THAT
@@BuilderWild Ahhh. Nice Project Farm reference. I like it.👍
What a beautiful Armstrong torque wrench.. just added a nos digital 1/2" to my Armstrong collection
Having a number of Armstrong tools, seeing another makes me happy they continue to live on and sad they are no more.
She torqued my wrench till I multiplied
Did she strip your sand-cast gears tho?
😂
@@HANKTHEDANKEST She cnc machined them perfect
Dammit😂
C'mon now, you'll be in middle school next year, where there's no such Tomfoolery allowed 😉
I've got a 3/4" drive SnapOn X4 (1000 ftIbs) that I purchased second hand for £150 of my old foreman when he retired.
Definitely one of my favourite tools and it's amazing how much you use them once you've got one. Main thing is being able to torque to 500ftib plus without having to lug a 6ft long torque wrench around.
I wish I knew where to find one… But I know what you need. Years ago I was working on a tractor with my dad, and we were unable to get the rear wheel off because our household air compressor wasn’t up to the task of keeping the impact going Long enough to break those big giant Lugnuts loose.
My dad worked at a factory and he knew the shop foreman. He was able to borrow this wrench from the machine shop, that was basically like a 6 foot long ratchet with a 1 inch drive socket, and in the box it also had a 4 to1 multiplier box, that you could put on it to amplify the torque. It was a beast. The funniest thing was even with all that one of the Lugnuts was so stuck. We put a 6 foot cheater bar on the handle of that giant ratchet, trying to get it off. So just imagine someone hopping up and down on a 12 foot lever with a 4:1 gearbox… I really thought we were going to snap the stud off, but it finally broke loose with some help from the torch heating it.
Damn.
The real question what happens when you put a multiplier on a multiplier.
It can move a truck, i think
"I'd recommend burning that thing to the ground" I'm going to say that to my boss next time a piece of equipment breaks
I love watching the ones they use to remove bolts on D11s, track plates, roller bolts, etc. Hydraulic things with MASSIVE torque.
The same company that made one of the torque multiplier, made my air con unit (homcom) have had it for 3 yrs working non stop as a dehumidifier and all summer time as an ac unit and hasn't missed a beat yet
I love the ratcheting one, you can torque up the bolt real high and walk away. It will let you know when it breaks loose. You can also apply a little heat or vibration while it's torqued.
Needed to drive some 3/4"x12" Titen concrete screws that our impact couldn't handle and ended up getting one of the cheapo "peppermill" units. Worked like a champ and ran those screws in with a 1/2" drill powering it.
Sand cast gears better than sintered tbh.
You'd be amazed at the number of high strength parts that are cast in 4140/40/60, 4340, 8620/40/50, 52100, 1080, etc etc
Regarding the square drive issues, just get a high grade large bolt and nut, thread them together then lay some weld so they're now one big long hex, put a 1 inch drive socket on the input, put the giant hex in the socket, put a socket on the hex sticking out, and put a tool on the socket. I made an adapter to let me use the 1/2" end of an extension on an impact gun to zoot Caravan/T&C spare tires up and down inside the car instead of using the included tools very slowly.
Efficiency loss with old grease is a real thing. I have an old MAC 4:1 with 1" drive output that I can barely turn. I have no imeadiete use for it, but it needs to be cleaned out of the old dried and sticky grease for sure.
More pepper grinder videos please! I didn't even know those were a thing. Thanks for being awesome!
I've seen them and they have bad idea written all over them. Stay away.
@@firesurferthey are fine for their intended use. heavy truck lug nuts.
I recently purchased a multiplier from princess auto in Canada. Some items from princess auto are less than great (garbage), but I was willing to risk the money. It's a 4:1 ratio and was on sale for 50% off. So, a $400 item for $200. Now what surprised me was a handwritten calibration certificate that came with it. The multiplier was rated at 1100ft pounds, but the certificate of test was up to almost 1400 ft pounds. I highly doubt that I'll need to torque anything that high, but it was more for removing larger or stuck bolts/nuts. it looks very similar to the Neiko and are similar in specs, however, mine did not have a case for it, but it did come with a calibration certificate. Excellent test video.
So i am a maintenance tech at an aluminum extrusion factory and we use a B-Rad 5,000 for almost everything that asks for over 1,000 lbs. love the channel btw!
I have been waiting for this for so longgggg!!!!!
This makes sense, nieko is occasional use, snap on is general purpose semi truck , agricultural one. Wright is for heavy industrial equipment like d11 cats or structural needs.
I have one of the pepper grinder ones, and it takes over tourqed rusted semi lugs off, run by a makita XPH14, or XPH07, using a 12 sided socket (1-1/8" I think) to turn the input. It's a beast! Not pretty, and with all the sockets and just stacked up, it's heavy... but man it beats jumping on a 4ft cheater pipe handle....
I bought the Neiko for torquing backhoe cylinder piston bolts. Nice to know it's a bit off in ratios.
I used to work at a place that used that style for precision applications. Every one had a calibration sheet for input and output torque. Find your desired torque on the chart and cross for your required input. They're accurate but need charted for high precision use.
We use Sweeney high capacity aerospace torque multipliers at work. I can't find how much they cost but I'm guessing its not cheap. As far as I know the biggest goes up to 30,000 ft-lbs.
I have the Snap-on one and it has served me well. Got it used of a guy who used to work on gaint factory air compressors
I use one of these things for one job. Torquing the crab nuts to 1800 ft lbs on an EMD. My boss is too cheap to get us a hydraulic torque wrench so we use a 600 ft lb torque wrench and a multiplier.
well a hydraulic wrench new is 10 - 20k with the power unit. so depends how much you use it.
17:30 Now that's QUALITY Chinesium
Im glad you cleaned and repacked the one. Thats something i do with all my ratchets no matter the brand. Even from new. Its amazing what a difference it makes in having them cleaned and greased inside.
Awesome! We have the larger version of the neiko for breaking apart hydraulic cylinders mostly and we've really abused it. Absolutely fantastic tool for 250 bucks. I would love to have that 4k one though. What a world of difference that would make.
I've always used a Ten Foot Length of 2" Iron Pipe as a Torque Multiplier
I think it’s nice that you have a Skidmore but for these experiments maybe you could buy a 10 foot I-beam and just use the definition of torque: weld a large nut onto one end of your I-beam weld a hook onto the other end, figure out the weight of the I-beam, and then add some more weights to the far end…
I have plenty of 4 point sockets, I use them for pipe plugs. Some of the really old ones from the 1800s are completely non standard so I have many sizes including custom CNC machined ones.
Hytorc has a 1 1/2 drive hydraulic torque I use at work ever once in a awhile to adjust 3 - 4 inch bolts that adjust the height of hydraulic press knives. Our toque spec for those bolts is 10,000 ft lbs. We use the same tool to loosen those bolts with added heat
At the nuke plant we had Hi-torque's
Battery operated and digital selectable.
Big $$$$.
I work on US Army CH-47. We use something like that Gador torque multiplier to torque the "Jesus" nut that holds the fwd and aft rotor head to the fwd and aft transmissions. I think we torque the nuts to something like 5,000 ft-lbs. It's always a little sketchy. This is an awesome video. Love your content.
I've had the homcom for years now ($49 in Dec 2015 according to Amazon). It gets used very rarely, maybe once or twice a year, but it's worth way more than the $49 when I do need it.
Great video! Loved it! Could you do one where you measure the accuracy when used with a torque wrench? Eg for tightening something to a specific, very high torque value
That's this video
First I want to say your script is awesome. Second, the heavy trades did use torque tools for 1000s of ft pound specs.
Id probably say these are designed as alternatives to power shop tools where power shop tools aren't available or space is limited. Wheel change on the road, or that suspension fastener between the frame & body. I like the idea, I can think of several occasions where these could be used. Great video.
I had no idea this tool exists. Man, that wright tools model is the sauce
Lookup (Superbolt). We used these (Supernut version) on 4 inch studs. Hand screw the two piece nut on, then stretch the nut height with included high tensile 5/8 size fastners.
I've used a Neiko similar to that one to break free a rusted rear pinion nut off of a Chevy 2500 that the owner had brought in because they forgot to refill diff fluid before driving 80mi on the highway, the pinion nut was almost welded on since the bearing had welded itself together. I felt like an absolute god when I broke it free.
I’ve played with a customers cordless multiple wrench they use on windmills. So crazy what they can do.
So , you're onto the "burn that thing to the ground" method too (if it's 5000lbs worth of stuck) , also , that's Uncle Bernie's 1/2 Craftsman breaker , thanks for all your work !
Any chance of testing the swenchs? Ive always been intriguied at the idea of having one
The pepper grinder ones are like a old crank handle for a old tractors and old cars 😊😊😊😊
Gonna need you guys to test the SnapOn cordless tq multiplayer and their 5k ftlbs pepper grinder.
I work at Caterpillar, we use thr 18 to 1 all the time for D12 undercarriage, or removing big excavator counterweight. They are awsome!!
I was surprised to see that last multiplier without Cat branding, I've only ever seen them with Caterpillar part numbers
It seems like you could make a really high quality one of these for pretty cheap. The only reason they’re so expensive is because they’re sold as “specialty tools” to industrial shops and so they justify insane prices.
$4k wrench is $20 worth of an OEM Auto component lmfao these specialty tool prices
That's typical for any manufacturer. If something sells slowly, they charge high to get a return on investment sooner. If they think it's a tool you NEED.they up the price just because they can. It's always interesting to see prices on any number of items on the market. Some simple things cost a fortune, while intricate things cost pennies. Go figure. Never underestimate the power of greed among humans. When money is at stake, there are no limits on how you'll get gouged. A simple medical device at Walmart will cost "$42.99". Sell that same item at a medical store and it'll cost "$250.00". I saw a new "knee scooter" for sale for $70.00. Same brand/item at a local medical outlet had that priced at $750. I asked why. Silence. Free enterprise at its best. Then we wonder why medical care costs so much. Where I used to work, we made medical devices for hospitals, doctors offices and home care. We also supplied for DOD (gov't). What normally cost us about $2.10 each, we charged about $18.00 each. To other less essential, non-contract outlets, we charged around $8.00. Hard to sleep at night.
The biggest torque multiplier I ever have seen was at my first job, a overhaul shop for jet engines. The torque multiplier used for removing and installing the fan blade hub retaining nut on the P&W JT9D engines was installed by overhead winch, it must have weighed at least 150kg. I have no idea of the maximum torque produced though…
The real question is how many torque multipliers do you have to put together to create a singularity and put a rip in the space time continuum? 🤔
I have one of those el cheapo or what you call peppergrinder style ones. It might be 10 years old, used and abused, wobbly as anything but it still works fine. I find a 27mm 12 point socket fits it just fine, milwaukee m18 drill in low gear driving it and it'll shift pretty much any wheelbolt I throw it at. Pop all the bolts and the 1/2 inch m18 impact does the rest.
We used the hell out of the williams and snap on multipliers at the refinery i worked at, never had an issue with them.
glad you guys finally busted out the torque multipliers! very insightful! I didn't realize they didnt work with impacts, though. That's too bad haha
You gotta try manual impact wrenches, particularly the Swench, it seems to be quite good
I have had the same Wright 20:1 for 15 years and it is so much better than anything else I've ever used. Every torque multiplier should be ratcheting.
Never seen them in use before. Good to know how they work IRL
Get your hands on one of the big internal spline drive Sweeney multipliers. 8200s. They're super cool.
I own the same exact one as that $60 you showed, I got it on sale a little less, I've used it to remove 22.5" wheels off commercial trucks and buses, it gives you a work out but I prefer it to a breaker bar. Thank you for these, I love your tests.
I left mine outside in the box, it wound up FULL of water and you know those gears rusted like crazy but I've used it a couple of times since then but its been a couple of months now I wonder if it is rusted stuck lol.
this is awesome, we actually used the last torque multiplier to torque EMD engine bolts some up to 2400ftlbs
I wonder if you can improve the el cheapo ones by cleaning it out, put in fine grinding paste and run it with a drill, no load for 5 or 10 minutes before cleaning and use some quality grease
I hate wanting a tool so badly that I know Ill never need. Damn, it'd look good sitting on the shelf... under its own light with at least 3" of wasted space on both sides... in case I ever did need it tho. This one is going on the xmas wish list that I give to the wife, cause you never know.
5:00 i noticed a mistake , with your seup. the chain is pressing against the nut, the tighter it got the tighter thechain is pressed into the nut making it become more difficult faster than it should have. i think
We use the Wright 18.5:1 multipler at CAT to torque those 836 axle mounting bolts at 1800 ft lbs. They are the best, a little heavy upside down but good still
I used one of the pepper grinders on a modified manual tire changer. Works like a charm.
IDEA. You recently showed how no-seize can affect torque readings. I watch a lot of SMA and Eric is always faking torque wrench noises. He's learned to tighten by feel most of the time because he knows how far off torque can be for a variety of situations. I would love to see this tested. Mock up a bunch of scenarios of rusted, oily, wet bolts and nuts and show how different torque varies in these scenarios when trying to use a torque wrench. And, maybe have your staff tighten by feel to see how closely they can approximate the required torque. Better yet, go to SMA and do this with Eric. I would love to see that kind of collaboration.
Thank you so much, Love your channel!
That $60 torque multiplier is like the dangerous crank starters in the beginning of the car era.
damn i got a good laugh of the zoom in of the "don't use an impact" on the tool and then instantly jump cutting to the milwaukee cawkee LMFAO
One day i'd love to see a Steam vs Compressed-Air test 🙏
i use a norbar 25:1 torque multiplier at work for injection mold machines some bolts are torqued to 1200-1500 NM 3/4 breaker bar, no sweat.
Watching you break that loose with one hand was more than a sight to see, I know mathematically speaking it was always gonna turn out like that, but Watching it was like magic, imagine never needing to torch a bolt, you could lift almost an entire truck with the strength it puts out
We need to see the big 1" Milwaukee on one of those cheap Chinese multipliers.
a place i worked at had these older signode and gardner denver 3/4" right angle nut driver air tools hooked up to some 3/4" torque multipliers that operators used to lock up the head nuts used to adjust the fine adjust space available on 120t high speed blanking presses. they were very able to bend the shaft the adjusting worm gear was attached to.
My rule of thumb:
- cheap and high ratio torque multipliers are good for unbolting heavy duty bolts
- if you want to torque a bolt up to spec, expensive multipliers with lower ratio are needed - the cheap ones will throw your measurements out the window because they're highly innacurate.
Hi, the reaction arm has to be held against a rigid point - the chain stretches and by doing so soaks up your torque output (just like stretching a bolt).
I regularly use a 5:1 to torque European truck hub nuts to 1500nm. Even to 1000nm, easier than using the actual torque wrench by a lot.
We have two different ones like you show at my work. One of the black ones with the "foot" we have on an electric gun specifically designed for torqueing wheel studs on trucks. You set a value on the gun and go. The other one is like the most expensive one you showed. Tough to use as heavy as it is and moves so slow you can barely tell, but it does the job. Kind of scary really.
I bought the starter model of these torque multipliers two months ago. It did the job, however I'm aware that you have to be careful when using these because you can break them as they aren't that well made. They are chunky so you might be tempted to think that they are invulnerable, they aren't. Treat them with care and they should last. Make sure the lube is good.
6 years ago I got a snap on x4 on ebay for 150 to do a diff on my truck. I thought I would only use it once but it really comes in handy for BMW crank bolts.
We have a red "pepper grinder", at the shop and even though it doesn't work on every "stuck" lug nut, it gets the job done when it fits! I forgot what brand it is but, I'm rather positive that it's on the cheap side.