Drawer Making - The Right Way (Fitting the Bottom)
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- Опубликовано: 28 сен 2024
- Drawer Making. Rob Cosman teaches you drawer making the traditional way - with dovetail joinery and no screws. In this video rob shows you how to make a fit a solid wood drawer bottom. This is the last of a of a four part series on drawer making.
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You know i have say i would think rob would have way more subscribers than he does bc his knowledge to me is invaluable (and im sure to many others as well). Which tells me many are in it more for the entertainment value rather than learning. Ive said it before but rob deserves to hear it a million times over i truly appreciate your knowledge that you pass to us. Thank you.
Thanks that just motivates me to keep going
Once again...I stand all amazed. Finessing wood like this is a true joy to behold. Here indeed is the patience of a Job and a standard to strive for. A friend of mine once said he could see the smile of God in his wood. Rob knows that smile.
Well said
Rob,
You are a great teacher. You explain techniques well without appearing to be condescending. Thanks for all the effort you put into your videos. I wanted to say you’re the best teacher I’ve ever had but my 4th grade teacher, Mrs. Westmoreland, was like Annette Funicello to us 9 year old boys
When it comes to woodworkers, there are good ones and there are bad ones… and there are even some great ones. Rob, however, is a God level woodworker. He just put more care into that drawer bottom than most people put into an entire cabinet. It is beyond impressive… it is awe inspiring. I have learned so much from you over the years Rob… sincerely; THANK YOU! You have definitely helped take my woodworking to the next level. ☮️
Messages like this motivate me to continue. Thank-you for taking the time to write.
This channel is a real gem. Thanks for this great content!
I'm so glad to see the board cups even for an expert! I also like solid wood drawer bottoms but have wondered how to keep those from cupping. It sounds like just by the nature of being placed in the drawer grooves. Thanks for making these videos!
Thanks Rob. I'm always amazed by the precision you work to. But it does give me hope.
you can do it too
Enjoy your shows makes me a better craftsman
give us some themes you would like to see us explore
I love that you showed me how precise planes are!
Most woodworkers dont understand that hand tools are moreprecise than power tools
@@RobCosmanWoodworking I shout it from the mountains here 😆 I tell everyone that'll listen just how exacting a marking knife and shooting board can be!!! The combination changed my life lol
Very Detailed Wood Work !
Thanks. Great teacher
You are welcome!
thanks
You're welcome!
gerçekten çok güzel ellerinize saglık.el emegi en ktsal olan emektir
Just finished watching this four parter. Stunning work Rob. One thing that crossed my mind: given the amount of time you spend using shooting boards, hand planes and saws to create the beautiful fitted drawer, how much additional time do you think you'd add using only hand tools? In the overall project, would it add maybe 10-15%, or more? Obviously, I'm not suggesting you should follow the hand tool only, but for those of us who have smaller workshops and limited resources. If we're only building, say, two cabinets per year and maybe a couple of additional items, is the tablesaw and other power tool equipment worth it? It seems that the hobbyist is always being tempted by the purchase of large power tools. I'd love to hear your thoughts at the point at which you think things like a tablesaw would add value to the hobbyist?
That such a hard call. If you want tobe all unplugged thats graet and some really love it. You arenot doing it for money but as a hobby so time is on your side. Its your call.
Great video Rob. Thx. I noticed you had a dust hood on your chop saw and was wondering how you liked it. I’ve been investigating dust collection mine and haven’t settled on a system yet.
I really like mine, its great
videolarınızı zevkle seyrediyorum.adeta ahşap ı konuşturuyor
It would be nice to see ways that the disabled would be able to find it easier To work in the shop Tips and Tricks.
Unfortunately I dont have a lot of experience with that
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Are you not part of the purple heart for veterans who are disabled how do they work in your work shop?
Our focus is more on mental disabilities than the physical. Of the 88 we have helped, only 4 had wheelchairs, and only 1 of them were bound to it.
Really enjoyed the tutorial. Wouldn't gluing the bottom in make it harder to apply finish to the bottom and sides of the drawer?
I only wax the sides and rarely finish the bottom, usually use a fragrant wood.
Got it, thank you for the reply. I'm really enjoying your channel.
Rob says, “The reason I’m being so particular...”
My wife, “Because you’re you?”
Haha!
Good answer
Terrific Rob, would a router plane help when sneaking up on the rabbit thickness?, do you always do the draw stop after the fact and any chance you could please deminstrate it?
You could use a router plane but in this case I think a skew block or its big brother a side rabbet plane is the best choice
Rob mentions cutting a rabbet in the bottom to attach it, while leaving the rest thicker, but wouldn't you lose your structural gains from the thickness anyways because your rabbet is not just a 1/4in, or whatever it ends up at, and all the downward force is still just on 1/4in thick rabbets?
But years and years of woodworking has proven its up to the job
A name we used for a small test piece to use instead of the full sized piece is a "mullet"
Thanks for the info. You taught me something
@@RobCosmanWoodworking and there i was thinking that was a bad 80's haircut :)
Rob, you're like the Michael Jordan of woodworking. But if you're MJ, then I'm like Paolo Banchero
Unrelated question I'm hoping you can give me some guidance on: I'm embarking on my first project that incorporates dovetails, which will be 3/4 ash for both pins and tails. Lumber is milled, and I'm practicing my dovetails with the off-cuts, using your tools/methods. Sadly, every practice run ends with me using all my might to pound the pieces together (dry), and the pin boards inevitably split apart, usually at both outside pins. Is this a common problem that you see in beginners? Should I be learning on a softer species that might be more "forgiving"?
Most likely either your tails or pins are out of square causing a wedging action as it's being pounded together. I would check all your pins and tails for square and start there. Good luck
Wes.....in the beginning I always recommend beginners practice with pine or poplar until you get the method down and build up your confidence. Pine and poplar are a little more forgiving as they are softer and less expensive so screwing them up doesn't hurt so much. My guess is that if your joint is too tight its one of two likely processes: 1) Your offset is not correct. Either your gauge setting is not perfect or how you hold it on the side of the wood is not perfect (Remember to always reference from the same side of the board. DO NOTflip from lthe eft to the right side. 2) Your pin or tail or both cuts are not square, but tappered or slanted. When you join the boards you split apart your joint. Go watch my dovetail video and watch how I use a small 2" square to check the squareness of the pins before I assemble. Let meknow how you do.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Well the first practice round with pine......went together. That's about the nicest thing I can say about it. You were right, my technique on the offsetting was not perfect (can't wait for you metal offset blocks!). I think the rest is a matter of practicing to get the muscle memory of what is perfectly square/plumb
Another great series Rob. Thank you so much for your teachings. Your attention to detail is inspiring. I consider you one of the greatest woodworkers of this era. Out of all the woodworking channels out there, I choose to follow only two, and that is you and Paul Sellers. That’s it. You are the best of the best.
Ray Cataline
Just place in the drawer already!
So if you'd make 17 drawers, you'd need 14 and 15 16th 17 times?
If I made 17 I would do everything 17 times
I always learn so much from watching you work. This is probably a dumb question, but I've only been woodworking for a year. How do you know when to stop fussing? For example, I'll get something to where it sits flat on the table saw, but when I put a straight edge or my plane on it, I see a tiny bit of light coming through. Do I continue to plane it or leave it be? Thanks Rob!!
I learn so much watching the videos on your channel. Thank you!
Thanks, Rob! Great video as always. I'm restoring an old primitive chest of drawers where the bottom was fixed to the back with an old cut nail, and over time the drawer bottom shrunk away from the groove in the front and is now sagging. This seems to be pretty common with older furniture. Did these old cut nails have enough flex in them to allow for seasonal movement, or do you think there was just a lack of knowledge on the topic a couple hundred years ago? I wish I could keep the old cut nail in the drawers for the sake of using the original fasteners, but I'll be repairing using your methods to keep from having issues in the future.
Every tree in the forest must say to themselves “ pick me pick me Rob”. Just beautiful work my friend.
This is absolutely hilarious 😆
I never heard them say that!!!!
What a great series Rob. Aim small miss small!
Hi Rob, excellent video. If you didn’t have access to the power tools, especially the wide planer, would you still make the bottom 5/16 thick or would you consider leaving it thicker? The reason I ask is because a lot of antique drawer bottoms appear to be fairly thick (~5/8”) and are tapered on the sides and front down to fit into the groove.
I would leave thick and taper the sides
Thanks for taking the time to do this one Rob,the tip about using a sample block for the fit is something I wish I had thought of last week, kept putting the drawer bottom in and out of the drawer trying to get it to fit
Glad it was helpful!
Thank you for all time you put in to making these videos. I hope you know how much your work is appreciated.
Rob as always a great video. I have been making drawer bottoms wrong for 35 years. Live and learn just take some of us more time to learn than others.
I like the pencil/dog trick. The same thing can be applied to clamping panels. The force is directed straight into the board even if the clamp jaws are misaligned.
Yes its a great tip
Amazing. Thank you. I am just making a drawer, will use this bottom solution, looks great!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks
Great series. Gotta love that skewed rabbet plane. I do. The added longer fence really does make big difference. Thanks guys.
Yes it does!
not a speck of dust comes out when you run it through the planer :) .... when I use my planer it looks like a horse's bedding area full of shavings HAHAHAHHAHA ... awesome work !!!
thre words- good dust collection
Once again, wonderful and clear instruction Rob, thank you, and Happy Easter to you and your family.
Happy Easter to you and your family
Top quality, and attention to detail. You make it look effortless.
You’re a great teacher Rob 😉
Practice it a bit and it is easy
Great series on drawer making! I'll be referring back to these videos for pointers and instruction many times in the future!
What should our next series focus on?
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Perhaps making the case that the drawers go into.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking The case the drawers are fitted to would be great! Personally I'd like to see how you put together the tilt out saw till. Would also like to see something on table builds - any kind really, and also anything regarding chest builds such as blanket chests.
Wow, amazing work. So precise.
Thanks for sharing those tips!
Thanks for watching and commenting
I believe that I saw you use a 1" piece of MDF in your thickness planer as the "bed". I would like to hear more from you about snipe in projects involving planing. Did the MDF eliminate the snipe?
Most of it. Some snipe comes from the bed rolls, the MDF negates them.
@@RobCosmanWoodworking Thanks. My baby planer doesn't have bed rollers. I guess the MDF would only act as a longer bottom table for me.
If you were using plywood as the drawer bottom, would you rebate the front and sides the same way? I don’t feel that 1/4 ply would be strong enough to support the potential contents of a drawer that size.
I use 1/4 baltic Birch ply and its plenty strong. I have never had one fail. Of course if it was a really big drawer I would go thicker.....3/8 maybe
@@RobCosmanWoodworking ok, thank you. I’m ordering some stuff today from your store. Going to try my luck with drawers.
I thought this said "Making Secret Drawers". I'm officially old now. I gotta say, though that making secret drawers would be right up your alley.
Join his online workshop, his “Standing Desk” has many secret drawers that are immaculate 🤯
COuls also be secrets of making drawers!!!!
💜🙌💜 very nice!!
Thank you! Cheers!