This really motivated me more. I will be using a 24" Auger x 4' deep, my coworker volunteered. My high blood pressure is really prolonging me from visiting the site to take more measurements.
We did the same thing with the same posts. The weight of the gate when hung flexes the steel post like butter. We had to weld gussetting to the post and anchor it in concrete both at the closed position and at the open position.
@@IndyFarmLife we did too. Had to install PVC in holes for hinge bolts in posts so hinge bolts can freely move in concrete before pouring concrete into posts for later adjustments.
Hate to say this. But, because the posts are way closer to the inner edge of the rebar cage/hole, the vertical posts may not get the optimum structural support.
According to Auburn Concrete Company, a yard of concrete weighs approximately 3700 pounds. 3x3700=11,100 pounds per Gate post. I think the 300 pound gate is safe. But did you fill the post with concrete to keep it from bending under the weight of the gate?
I'm setting a much smaller post yet I was wondering how to do a better job than the "fence company." The rebar cage! I have a round post so I think drilling a hole and fitting rebar thru the hole... My automatic gate post hardware snapped the other day because the post spun in it's hole. Thanks!
So you have most or the concrete on just one side of the posts? Do you think you should have the rebar surrounding the post because 3 inches of concrete on ons side is not enough
You can avoid rebar if you use MACRO fibres in the mix..and to avoid cracking during curing, have them add MICRO fibres... perfect for ground lumps and slabs like these..also it avoid the nasty concrete rust disease in a few years..
Would this method cause the poles to rust out faster? I have some 8" poles schedule 80 and was debating if to put them in concrete or weld them to the concrete footers by using a plate on top of footers. I'm making a 16'x32' deer blind, well a cabin on stilts.
If it's still relevant: use hot-dip galvanized anchor bolts in the concrete and a baseplate on your steel, and leave enough anchor exposed to set the base plate atop "leveling nuts" below it. So longs as you use a thick enough base plate (probably 3/4" or thicker) and large enough bolts (probably 5/8" or bigger), then that will last at least 100yr. Alternatively, have the portion of your steel embedded in the concrete and at least 6" above (if not all the way) hot-dip galv. That is also a 75-100yr solution. Base plate directly on concrete is also fine; just cut a 1/2" or so drainage groove each way under the plate. Also if you're using tubular steel like we see here then drill a hole in the middle of your baseplate (or better yet at each corner) inside the post to drain it.
@@evilassaultweaponeer My plans for my off grid cabin in the air were placed on hold due to prices of lumber sky rocketing. I have the 8" x 14' pipes on racks ready to be cut to size. I am having difficulty understanding the first sentence so let me see if I understand correctly. Install galvanized anchors sticking out of concrete, place nuts on top of concrete to be able to adjust, base plate over nuts followed by more nuts on top. I see people around here placing a 4" sch 40 pipe with a plate welded on top and then inserted about 3 feet into concrete. The only issue is you are very limited on adjustments as the beam will be welded straight onto plate. My cousin got 20 foot 4" ID pipe with an epoxy coating and shoved them about 3 feet into concrete. This method just worries me if the pipe will corrode early. Well glad to get more info for my projects.
@@cutweldngrind you have the leveling nut concept correct. As for the pipe: skip the epoxy and get hot dip galvanized if you go that route. You can adjust it with a grinder or shims, it leveling nuts are better.
6 yards of concrete is enough but the post is like 3 inches from the edge of the tension side i would think the post would have to be close to the center.
It's a bit of an illusion. The top is more narrow, but at the base we were about 6 to 8 inches away from the side wall. We do also have the angle iron to prevent lifting/twisting. The posts were later filled with rebar and concret. They aren't going anywhere!
Thank you! Could they maybe be better centered in the hole? Sure, but we couldn't cut it in any more due to the location of electric and sewer lines. The posts are also now filled with rebar and concrete. When I think about these posts, the term "Brick Sh!thouse" comes to mind! 🤣
This really motivated me more. I will be using a 24" Auger x 4' deep, my coworker volunteered. My high blood pressure is really prolonging me from visiting the site to take more measurements.
when are going to post a video of hanging the gates. I looked for it on your channnel and didn't see it. Great video
Thanks for sharing. My first time to your site. Nice job. I would agree it is tornado proof. The rebar is worth every dollar.
Thx for this, I’m doing something very similar and your video helped👍
Glad it helped! Good luck with your build.
We did the same thing with the same posts. The weight of the gate when hung flexes the steel post like butter. We had to weld gussetting to the post and anchor it in concrete both at the closed position and at the open position.
@@IndyFarmLife we did too. Had to install PVC in holes for hinge bolts in posts so hinge bolts can freely move in concrete before pouring concrete into posts for later adjustments.
Hate to say this. But, because the posts are way closer to the inner edge of the rebar cage/hole, the vertical posts may not get the optimum structural support.
Mabye so, but I'm not worried about it. The posts are now also filled with rebar and concrete and each only has to hold a 300lb gate.
According to Auburn Concrete Company, a yard of concrete weighs approximately 3700 pounds. 3x3700=11,100 pounds per Gate post. I think the 300 pound gate is safe. But did you fill the post with concrete to keep it from bending under the weight of the gate?
I'm setting a much smaller post yet I was wondering how to do a better job than the "fence company." The rebar cage! I have a round post so I think drilling a hole and fitting rebar thru the hole... My automatic gate post hardware snapped the other day because the post spun in it's hole. Thanks!
The rebar will definitely help strengthen it! Good luck with your project.
How long did you wait to take off the wood support on the beams
I think we let it sit for 24 hours or so.
So you have most or the concrete on just one side of the posts? Do you think you should have the rebar surrounding the post because 3 inches of concrete on ons side is not enough
You can avoid rebar if you use MACRO fibres in the mix..and to avoid cracking during curing, have them add MICRO fibres... perfect for ground lumps and slabs like these..also it avoid the nasty concrete rust disease in a few years..
Vibrate and wet cure? Much stronger and less potential for cracks
Good job. Very inspiring.. I'm going to search your channel.
@@IndyFarmLife ok. I've also been looking into Macro fiber reinforced concrete. Always a good bet.
they look like they are in there pretty good.
Would this method cause the poles to rust out faster? I have some 8" poles schedule 80 and was debating if to put them in concrete or weld them to the concrete footers by using a plate on top of footers. I'm making a 16'x32' deer blind, well a cabin on stilts.
If it's still relevant: use hot-dip galvanized anchor bolts in the concrete and a baseplate on your steel, and leave enough anchor exposed to set the base plate atop "leveling nuts" below it. So longs as you use a thick enough base plate (probably 3/4" or thicker) and large enough bolts (probably 5/8" or bigger), then that will last at least 100yr. Alternatively, have the portion of your steel embedded in the concrete and at least 6" above (if not all the way) hot-dip galv. That is also a 75-100yr solution. Base plate directly on concrete is also fine; just cut a 1/2" or so drainage groove each way under the plate. Also if you're using tubular steel like we see here then drill a hole in the middle of your baseplate (or better yet at each corner) inside the post to drain it.
@@evilassaultweaponeer My plans for my off grid cabin in the air were placed on hold due to prices of lumber sky rocketing. I have the 8" x 14' pipes on racks ready to be cut to size. I am having difficulty understanding the first sentence so let me see if I understand correctly. Install galvanized anchors sticking out of concrete, place nuts on top of concrete to be able to adjust, base plate over nuts followed by more nuts on top.
I see people around here placing a 4" sch 40 pipe with a plate welded on top and then inserted about 3 feet into concrete. The only issue is you are very limited on adjustments as the beam will be welded straight onto plate.
My cousin got 20 foot 4" ID pipe with an epoxy coating and shoved them about 3 feet into concrete. This method just worries me if the pipe will corrode early.
Well glad to get more info for my projects.
@@cutweldngrind you have the leveling nut concept correct. As for the pipe: skip the epoxy and get hot dip galvanized if you go that route. You can adjust it with a grinder or shims, it leveling nuts are better.
Why did you put rubber boots on
Ha muck boots. Comfortable, easy to slip on, and laying around. I wear them often.
Except there is only cement on 3 sides?
Looks that way at the surface but I assure you it's all the way around. The posts are also now filled with rebar and concrete. Solid!
Thats a lot of concrete
"She ain't goin' nowhere!"
6 yards of concrete is enough but the post is like 3 inches from the edge of the tension side i would think the post would have to be close to the center.
It's a bit of an illusion. The top is more narrow, but at the base we were about 6 to 8 inches away from the side wall. We do also have the angle iron to prevent lifting/twisting. The posts were later filled with rebar and concret. They aren't going anywhere!
What are you paying for steel these days? Just got a quote for a 10’ 4”x4” .25 steel-post for $150
cool !!!
Thank you!
These posts are going nowhere. how anyone thinks otherwise is beyond me.
Thank you! Could they maybe be better centered in the hole? Sure, but we couldn't cut it in any more due to the location of electric and sewer lines. The posts are also now filled with rebar and concrete. When I think about these posts, the term "Brick Sh!thouse" comes to mind! 🤣