How to Change Motorcycle Front Fork Fluid / Oil
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- Опубликовано: 18 ноя 2015
- In this video, I show you how to change the oil in the front forks of your motorcycle (inverted forks). This video covers 43mm Showa forks on my Ducati 848, but the procedure is similar across many fork brands on a multitude of motorcycle makes and models. (Cambio de aceite de horquilla Ducati 848). Check out these affiliate links to various brands of fork oil/fluid and other related items:
Ohlins 19 cST Fork Oil Fork Oil (I've used this in the past, and most recently the Ohlins 23 cST #01313-01): goo.gl/WsytTb
Other Popular Brands
Maxima: goo.gl/ntFzgJ
Bel-Ray: goo.gl/8bHda8
Silkolene: goo.gl/8X02of
PJ1 Fluid: goo.gl/qy1oAQ
Motorex: goo.gl/RZVfFQ
Motul: goo.gl/l9Obth
Red Line: goo.gl/evma24
Motion Pro Fork Oil Level Gauge (not used in this video, but a review and how to is forthcoming): goo.gl/lhPTf0
Fork Oil Measuring Cup: goo.gl/uWe0iB
#track848 
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You're so quick and to the point, no fluff...love it!!
Thank you!
I've only recently found your videos, just wanted to say keep it up. I absolutely enjoy watching the HOW TO's like this one! Loving them
+Nickle Goodman Thanks! I'll be releasing a steady flow of maintenance related videos over the next few months--until riding season returns where I live--then I'll include some riding videos as well. Stay tuned!
Totally awesome content here!!! Don't you dare stop!!!
+650ib Too many videos in my pipeline to stop now... Thanks!
Fantastic video, factual, to the point and all the information I need to do it myself
I need to change the oil in my Showa 43mm forks (Triumph Speed Triple 2010) after the suspension 'specialists' cahnged the springs and piston sets but put in 5W oil instead of 10w and to the wrong level so the rebound and compression adjusters don't work, and I am riding on the springs only!
Now I have watched your video I have the confidence to do this myself, it will save me a 150 mile round trip and another day off work to get the specialists to sort out their problem.
Many thanks
RT
+Red Thunder Perfect! This is why I publish these videos! Good luck, and come back if you have any questions...
Thanks man. About to work on my first bike ever and with my limited knowledge of cars I can tell this front end needs some attention. Ima start here.
Found your channel because your comment on a action cam review, what a gem find, keep up the good work sir
+TheREGGIE1324 Thanks for your comment and for subscribing! I have a number of videos that I'm working on for release, so stay tuned!
Thank you for this well-produced and easy to understand video! Appreciate your time. You're a very good teacher.
You're welcome, John... glad you liked it!
Nice a video on fork oil replacement only. I dont think mine need all the bushings and seals, but I want to change the oil.
What a terrific video. Clear and precise. Many thanks - I'll go and change the oil on my BMW XCo now I've seen this.
Great! Have fun!
I was dreading doing mine, mainly because I just just refreshed the front calliper/rotor, but also because I’ve never done it before.
Wasn’t until I was pumping the front end while testing/seating the pads I noticed how soft they are…but you made it look easy enough to tackle.
Thanks 🙏
*the front brake was near frozen when the neighbour & I pushed it into my place.
Yeah, after you do it once or twice it's fairly easy... good luck!
Thanks for these videos. I love the detail and tricks!
+nickbee123456 You're welcome!
I have a '99 748 and this video is just what I was looking for!
Excellent, Ric! I hope it helps!!!
Excellent video, thanks for sharing, this video help me a lot with my 848 2009!! Keep up the good work!!
juan villasana You're Welcome, Juan! Glad it helped!
Thank you! This is exactly what an instructional video should be like, amazing job! I wish I could make videos this good.
Thanks Turco!
Man you know how much i love these lol...bloody awesome work. I have never attempted the forks but you make it look easy. Great stuff! Big thumbs up!
+spike lee Thanks Spike! It was a little intimidating the first time, but after that it's not so bad... I change my front fork oil once a year now. The harder project is changing the fork seals, you basically have to disassemble the fork to do that... I'll record the next seal renewal and post it up here in my maintenance library.
+Track848 I can't wait! I'm itching for a new video ;)
This was the most straight forward video I can find on how to change fork oil. Thank you. Gawd dam! lol
You're welcome!
great video! thank you for making
You're welcome!
Looks easy enough, cheers mate, appreciate the video :)
You're welcome, KJ II!
Thank you! About to do my bouncy Triumph 800 xc and this video is about perfect to sum up what I have to do!
Good luck!
Front Forks need lovin' too!
great video!!
Awesome video! Thank you for sharing!
You're welcome!
Awesome video, thanks man!
+0p3ragh0st Glad you like it, thanks!
Great video - just wanted to know how to change oil without replacing seals and here it is. Hope is exactly the same way for Sachs forks (Multistrada 1200s -skyhook). As for pumping out the oil I am not sure if I need to turn the cap anticlockwise first on mine.
I'd try it and listen for the click... if it clicks then start turning it clockwise. Good luck!
great straight to the point video but I wouldn't torque the fork pinch bolts until you have the front tire fully seated on the axle. You're essentially saving any headache if you dont have the fork aligned. Good vid though!
Thanks for viewing and commenting! That part was edited out...
Perfectionism
brilliant work
Thank you!
Wow. You have mad wrenching skills !!!
Thank you!
Nice video
Thanks Ferid!
Really well done! Thak you sir.
You're welcome, John! Thank you for the comment... 👍🏻💯👍🏻
Thank you so much for saving me so much money. I love your video i learn and save alot from you.
You're welcome, Saibur, I'm glad you're benefitting from my videos!
Found you through 650ib! What an amazing channel you have, and it fits me perfect as i have a 848 Evo trackbike that i will be doing my first season on this year. Up untill now i have some videos of some track sessions on a 695 Monster!
Definitely changing my fork oil asap, but what is the benefit of going from a 7.5wt to a 5wt? I'm probably on the heavier side of the small italians that ducati setup stock bikes for....
Keep up the good work!
+Steffen Solberg Welcome! You will find quite a few videos here that apply to your 848 Evo (and the Monster, too!). Regarding the fork oil, I recommend completely ignoring the indicated weight value across the different brands of fork oil. You can see in this video that I use the 'kinematic viscosity'/cST number instead. The factory recommended fluid (Shell Advance, which is/was unavailable in the USA), is rated 22 cST at 40 degrees C. The Ohlins that I used I this video is rated at 23 cST. The benefit for me, and the reason I switched to a slightly higher viscosity, was to add more front suspension support at one of the bumpy tracks that I ride on. There are many other ways to do this (upgrade the suspension, for example), but this is a cheap, acceptable way of doing it as well.
Excelente Video para cambiar el aceite de la suspensión, voy a tratar de hacerlo con mi scooter =), Thank you!
+Antonio David Marín Gutiérrez De nada, Antonio. Que si tienes algunas dudas, regresa! Buenos suerte!
is it the same prosess for a dirt bike that needs compressed air too?
I enjoyed the video. You make this look like a very doable project. Does measuring the removed oil take away the need to measure the height of the fork oil?
Ducati does not mention a measuring height in the Service and Repair manual, only the amount of fluid in each fork. So, if you're measuring you do not have to note the amount of old oil removed...
Thanks, well done!
+Lew Barrett Thank you, Lew!
excelente video
saludos
+Nelyi Larice Muchas gracias!
good video .thanx man
You're welcome!
great video thanks for the tutorial! going to do mine here very soon!
Thanks for the comment--good luck!
@@Track848 thanks brother, success! Thanks for the help man! Couldnt have done it with out your video man!
Very good. Thanks for the video. At. Odair
You're welcome!
How do you make sure it is aligned properly?
Thank you for a very understandable instruction!
You're welcome, John!
@@Track848 every how many month should I change my motorcycle's fork's oil? I'm kinda newbie to this xD
@@flynaganrider2541 I recommend the following: 1) Look in your owners manual first to see if there is a recommendation; if there is and you are an average/casual street rider, follow the manual. 2) If there is no mention on the frequency in the manual, every 2-3 years if you are an average/casual street rider; 3) If you do track days I suggest at least annually and maybe more depending on the number of track days and/or number of races you do.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! Iam going to do this to my 03 zx6r. I did not want to rebuild the entire fork like other videos show you... Thank you!!!
+John W Also not to mention the one side at a time is genius... I was going to hoist the bike up with an engine crane or something. lol
+John W You are welcome, man!!! Good luck, and feel free to come back if you have any questions. I'm going to help one of my buddies this weekend do the same with his gsxr-750...
***** You are the man. Good luck with your buddies 750.. Although I figure you have proper skill where luck doesn't even matter.
Nice vid. I always though you were meant to take the whole thing apart to clean all the old oil from all the components as well though?
You can do it that way if you have the tools and know how to take everything apart. My strategy is to do it that way only when I replace the seals; in between, I just renew the fork oil.
The manual for my 2009 Versys states a full fork disassemble to replace the fork oil. It appears that you are doing a fork oil change without disassembling the forks, correct?
Yes, that is correct. I do diassemble the forks when I do the full service, which includes renewing the fork seals as well, but for my riding style I can normally go 2-3 years on a fresh set of seals.
Awesome video !! any plans for a shock DIY service??
Are you referring to the rear shock? If so, I currently have no plans; if you're talking about a full service (seal and oil change) on the front forks, yes I will create a video on that the next time I change the seals.
I was referring to the rear, but full front diy would be useful too.
How often do you service the front and rear shock?
After the initial drain would you not introduce air into the cartridge by pumping the fork to obtain the fluid inside of the cartridge?
Hey coolio, there might be some air introduced during that stage but that's the 'quick' way to get most of the fluid out. Once you add the new fluid, and do it slowly, most of the air will peculate out...
Great video man. I have the same bike. I wanted to ask if you thought about getting 30mm off-set triples and/or the flat-rear link? Furthermore, it pears you've upgraded the rear-shock, did you upgrade the fork internals as well?
Thanks in advance. Oh, liked and sub'd!
Thanks Desmobrain... Yes I have thought about getting the 30mm triples and upgrading the front and rear suspension (both are currently stock). I was going to do it this year, but may wait until next riding season. Thanks for subbing!
Thnq so much 🙏
You're welcome, Monty!
@@Track848 your humbleness and your working style Impress me to do the subscribe, and I'm done ...lots of respect from Delhi, india
do you have the video where you move the rear caliper pin on the swingarm? thank you
+mver2465 Yes, it is the next video in my queue to finish and upload; I should have it up in 7-10 days. Are you planning to do this mod?
really you need the top cap off and rebound rod out to do this properly as you need to set the air gaps identical in each fork. doing it your way whilst I get is fast and a quick refresh only.. kinda assumes an exact amount of oil was in there to start with and that both legs have the same amount in both pre and after?
This was not a full service, it was just a refresh. I might do another video showing the full service. As you mention, the fork is completely disassembled during the full service. Regarding fork fluid level, the 848 service manual calls for 439cc of fluid in each fork, and doesn't mention an air gap (like many other bikes); I've always filled each fork on this bike with 439cc of fluid during full service, and for the refresh I add back the exact amount of fluid that was drained out of the fork... this is normally around 400 to 405cc.
Track848 that's fair enough if you did the full strip down previously so know that exact amount went in. 🖒
Quick question regarding rocking the front of the bike after the brake calipers bolts are torqued. The manual for my monster 1200S states:
Front brake calliper retaining screw (RH+LH) M10x1.25 45NM +/- 5% GREASE B
Front brake calliper pre-tightening for settling (RH+LH) M10x1.25 2NM GREASE B
It was my understanding this meant to do an initial torque to 2NM, then pump the brakes and hold the lever in while doing the final torque of 45NM.
Is that basically accomplishing the centering process? Is rocking the front while the lever is held in going to move the calipers at all after the bolts are torqued?
Thanks again for posting these videos and replying to the comments. The logic and process to maintaining these machines is almost as rewarding as riding them! If you get a chance it would be great to see your process for timing belt / valve adjustments!
+nickbee123456 Yes, I believe you're interpreting the 2NM settling amount and process correctly. There are a few ways to center the calipers on the rotors, and this would be one of them. Here's a video by Dave Moss, that appears to be the way your bike needs to be done... ruclips.net/video/DYHV78tWs1c/видео.html. Regarding timing belts and valve adjustments, I was going to create a video for these over the summer, but became so busy with work (and track days), I didn't have the time to do it myself. The next time these two items are due, I'm planning to do the work myself and will make videos then.Thanks for watching and commenting!
Why do we need to pump the forks 5 to 10x? Can we just install it to the bike and then hold the brakes to pump both at the same time?
Thanks for the tutorial. I just ride on the street. I have a 2012 ninja 1000 16000 miles. I know it’s over due . Do you think I will notice any difference on the street?
Yes, if the fork fluid has 16,000 street miles, it would probably be worth a change... especially if you're an aggressive rider like me!
Can you add oil without taking the forks OFF?
i have a 2008 848, what is that tool to get the seal inside the fork? I need to get it to replace my seal
You will need a fork spring compressor tool kit (I purchased a Traxxion Dynamics one), and a fork seal driver (43mm for your 08 Ducati if it's OEM). I went with a Motion Pro driver.
I don’t understand, why my manual wants me to take part of the spring with a special compressor tool, in order to replace oil, when you can just pour it out…( BMW r nine t)?
Great video, question, I have an 04 r1, Im sure the oil has never been changed (35k). I also have a light clunk in the front over small bumps or when first applying the brakes. Its not the headset bearing, I checked the torque. Can it be cause the oil is old or something else in the forks?
Thanks
+steve ricci If your R1 hasn't had a fork oil change in 35k (miles or Km), it's due for one. For normal street riding, I would change mine at a minimum every other year. I change mine now once a year in an attempt to maintain some level of consistency on the track. The clunking noise could be a number of things, including old fork oil, but a few other possibilities are: 1) Some one installed pads that have more clearance than your stock pads; 2) The brake anti-rattle plate is installed incorrectly, or 3) The clunking noise could be coming from the rotors moving on the carrier... I would investigate further if I were you. Hope this helps!
Thanks for your reply, I went all out yesterday and remove the steering head, replaced the fork oil, repacked the bearings and that took care of my issue. Much needed maintenance.Thanks for your response.
Just what I was looking for! I've got an 01' ZX-12R that has fork oil from 03' when I had Race Tech Springs and gold valves installed. I think it's time to change it! ;-)
Excellent! I bet that fork oil is well done and ready for renewal! Good luck!
So just tried to take off the top plugs of the forks. They were both very stubborn! Not even a breaker bar could remove them. I was able to finally remove one with a small impact driver and cloth in between to minimize any scratching but the other will not come off. I'm assuming after so many years of not touching them would cause this? Torque for these are only 23Nm unless the shop that last worked on them used a big impact gun to put them on. Any other suggestions on how I can crack it open? I don't want to strip it either.
I hope they didn't use an impact wrench to put them back on!!! And 23Nm might be too much. I turn my as tight as I can by hand then just a very slight snug. Just double checking: You loosened the upper triple and clip-on bolts, correct? Other than that 15 years is a long time, maybe spray some penetrating fluid (like 'PB Blaster') around the area where the threads are...
Ya, I don't know if they did or not torque the crap out of it. I would hope not! I have the service manual for the bike and 23Nm is the spec. Yep, I've loosened just the top clip-on bolts. My next attempt will be liquid wrench. What about heating the area up a bit with a heat gun? There's no plastic externally in the area that could get damaged. I'm just leery of what's inside the top of the fork that may be affected.
'Just the top clip-on bolts'? Do you have an upper triple clamp bolt and clip-on clamp bolt (two bolts total) at the top of each fork like mine? If so, they both need to be loosened (you probably know this, but I'm just checking for clarification). I found a few good options by searching google for 'stuck fork cap on front motorcyle fork.' One option that is posted on a GL1800 forum (and many others), is to get a large socket just smaller than the fork cap and use a hammer to hit the socket to break the cap loose with impact from the blow... if that doesn't work there were a few other search results that you might find useful... Please come back and let us know how this turns out!
Nice shoes!
LOL!!!
After you pump the fork to remove air, to you open the top cap as well to let the air out ?
No Anomie, you do not have to reopen the top cap... the air will find it's own way out... it slowly 'percolates' out...
@@Track848 T;hanks, didn't think so but just wanted to be sure.
why you need to turn the fork counter clockwise until it click? does any fork have to do this? what if you font turn counter will affect anything? my bike is cbr 600rr 2005.
It lines up the threads; not sure about the cbr... you might want to go check out Dave Moss' channel--he's an expert suspension guru and he probably has a video available for the cbr.
Is there any risk to the fork seals in doing this process? Or after the process is finished?
Not that I've seen, Wesley; I have completed this process several times with no issues...
Is it necessary to change fork oil seal every time during fork oil change?
Hi Varun--no it is not necessary to change the seals every time. If you ride hard and beat up on them and/or the seals are leaking, then yes. I'm not riding as much these days, but when I was, I always tried to change my fork oil at least once a year. The seals normally last 2-3 years for my riding style. Even if the seals start leaking, you can often prolong their life by using a tool like the Sealmate tool... here's a link to a video I made featuring this tool a several years ago ruclips.net/video/XqQ9U6FHgdU/видео.html ...Back then it only costs $5USD... you can also make a similar tool out of flimsy (but firm) plastic like old-style film negatives... Ride Safe!
@@Track848 Thanks for your reply 👍👍👍
When you say leave it to the side so air can ..... is that with top off or on. ????
Cap on--any air that's trapped will slowly work it's way out...
@@Track848 will this method still work on my forks. No rebound nor compression. Ducati hypermotard 796 2012. Still up side down forks. Thanks for reply.
bro you forgot to check for cracks on dust seals and oil leaks around seals before you refill it ? or to check for drain plugs some bikes have at end of shocks.!
Hey Juan, thanks for commenting; I do not have drains (that I know of), and at the time of this video the seals were pretty fresh at about 1-year old. I change my fork fluid every year and the seals 'when required' if they go bad.
Will this technique work on a Ducati Monster 796?
Sorry for the delay... yes it will work on a Ducati Monster 796.
thanks and would it work on Ohlins forks?
They should put drain plugs at bottom of forks , should not have to pull bike half to bits
That would make it too easy, LOL...
Is the method for getting the calipers centered on the rotor generally the same bike to bike? I know of reading something similar on the forums about needing to do what you're doing to get the forks in the "neutral" position while holding the brake and compressing the forks. But I've also read that you don't want to hold you brakes while doing so and somewhere else I read that you want to hand tighten the caliper bolts then compress the suspension and then torque down the caliper bolts.
Seems to be a whole mess of peoples opinions when it comes to anything relating to putting the front wheel back on the "right" way and getting the right sequence of pinch bolts tightened.
+Other7777 Yeah, I've seen it described a few different ways too. I learned the technique in this video from Dave Moss. The 848 service manual is a little different too; it calls for the special Ducati tool and 1) Torque the axle nut to spec; 2) torque calipers to spec, and 3) before tightening the fork pinch bolts, lower the bike and bounce the front end up and down, then torque the pinch bolts. I've had no problems doing it the way that I did in the video. I might buy the Ducati special tool and try it that way the next time...
That oil was fine.. No need to change oil on a regular basis. If so drain plugs would be in the design. Auto and truck shocks are generally lifetime. Todays oil chemistry is so much more tolerant and better quality with additives that can live and perform much longer than oils of yesteryear. Some newer synthetic engine oils for example can withstand 12000 miles under rigorist conditions. Its a matter of choice I suppose and how you use your bike ie dirt biking , etc and how much labor is involved.. To each is own .
You're right, it was probably fine for a street bike, but at the time of recording this was a dedicated track bike. Changing the fork oil on a regular basis for a dedicated track bike (or a race bike), helps a great deal with consistency on the track. I'm just a track day rider (I'm not a racer), and I change the fork oil at least once each season. Many local club racers will change their oil more frequently than that... Thank you for commenting.
is it the same for my 696 08? it has a showa 43 too
+Onofrio Pirrello It should be similar, however I believe your fork is non-adjustable correct?
+Track848 yes
How do i know when to change fork oil
For a starting point check the recommended maintenance intervals in your User's Manual. I would probably follow that If I was a casual street rider. The manual for my 2009 848 calls for a fork oil change at 3 years/22.5k miles/36k km.
For a more aggressive street rider, or track day rider like me, I recommend changing the fork oil once every 12-18 months. I do this to maintain a level of consistency in the feel of the front end. Some professional racers will change before every race.
Other wise for us 'regular' riders, you will know when it's time: Eventually the viscosity of the oil will break down and the front end suspension will be really 'soft' and will not offer the needed resistance when you push down on the front end. I hope this helps...
only thing you did wrong was holding the brake while lining the forks. Your not lining the brake calipers push down on the Triple Tree to align the forks on the axle then you tighten them down that's the point of pulling down on the front end like that
Soo.
My monster 600 should have 380ml of oil.
I get 350ml, so that should just about be 10% left in the fork?
I hope, i filled 350ml back in.
Phillip, yes, that's the way I do it on my 848; I replace the amount of oil that I take out. If I do a complete tear-down and seal renewal then I add the full amount called for in the manual--in your case that would be 380ml... have fun and ride safe!
@@Track848 thanks alot for the quick answer:).
After replacing the oil, the ride feels so much better.
Bet the previous oil was way to old and a bit light hehe.
Thanks again man
good but I don't know why someone should change their fork oil and not the seals. I would do them both at the same time.
I change my fork oil at least once a year... for my riding style changing seals once a year would be overkill; front fork seals will normally last me several years before going bad and I replace them both once I get a weep that cannot be cleared-up with my SealMate tool...
good. some people just jump right to the oil until their seals blow up and have to do everything all over again. *thumbs up
If its not broke don't fix it.
Song at 0:17?
Sorry Gabriel... I deleted all of my original files for this video and can't remember the name of this song...
The fork must disassemble it and clean all its components! to do a good job. So all the aluminum dies remain in the fork
Hey lapo, thanks for the reply--this was a quick and simple fork oil change; I do this once each year. I do a more detailed/complete break-down every other year, with seal replacements, etc. etc. A complete overhaul every year would be overkill for me... If I can find time, I will try to record and publish a video the next time a do the full overall.
Great bike! do a good job of maneuvering ... so many consider unimportant oil suspensions ... compliments
👍🇦🇺
Thank you, Terry!
You didn't measure the air gap or show us
Regarding the fluid level, the 848 service manual calls for 439cc of fluid in each fork, and doesn't mention an air gap (like many other bikes); I always fill each fork on this bike with 439cc of fluid during full service, and for the refresh I add back the exact amount of fluid that was drained out of the fork...
@@Track848 ok thanks, I looked up the specs on Google, and it says 101cc of fork oil for each leg. I do have manual but other videos say to measure an air gap of 101 from the top which they suck out any fluid from the top by 101mm
@@seanviper99 Excellent! If you know what the recommended air gap is and have the tool, that is a good way to ensure that you have the right amount of fluid. It's the only method a lot of people use. If you do not know the gap and do not have the tool, the process in this video works well, too. Thanks for commenting!
What's the actual point...
why u no teach rear forks sifu uhuhuhu
I've never done that before, I don't know...