Maybe you could remove all the contacts but superglue the button, so you can watch people's frustration as they are unable to press the 'do not press' button
And suddenly I got a slightly sadistic idea... What I'm getting at would be installing an egg pick with snap action in the body of a button bottom up so when you press it you get that nice tactile snap, and a sharp needle poking into your finger. It would be instant karma for anyone feeling the urge to press the forbidden button...
at 13:00 is where you really tell the casual viewers from the serious electronicists. Casual viewers (e.g. me): Yay, the Hopi's not flickering. I LIKE this new camera setting. Electronicists: Looks like the current draw is below the Hopi's detection threshhold.
Some switches have removable springs with a mechanism that still provides snap action as long as there is one spring left in the stack. (It made a difference if it was at the bottom or top of the stack.) With those switches, all of the buttons in a panel can be configured to take the same force to actuate. If stacked too high, there is too much slack, and the bottom switch won't activate reliably.
Also, an enclosure that will take much more than a four contact block stack can get costly. And the ones big enough to handle that would typically have the buttons on the door so that when you opened it you would be smacked in the face with a contact block club. LOL! 4PDT relays are hella cheap when times get tough...
Especially as they age, and the clips pop off somewhere after the first position, leading to some "interesting" actions on pushing the button. A good reason to use the type that do not clip together, but instead screw into each other, a lot more robust.
@@SeanBZA nope in reality a good snap on type is more service able and secure too we are talking about industrial equipment easy service is more important than lasting a "lifetime" , if you try to change a contact from the older telemecanique buttons ( a very good button of the screw fast in type ) with the screw type fastener after 5 years of use in industrial invirement ohh man that screw had rust stuck in the soccet and you will use eventually a hammer to smash all the button out , and contacts (specialy N/C) are things to regulary change because they fill with dust , oils, water , soy, fish eggs ,what ever that industry produces , and a 5 mins job to change a contact ends up 30mins long with lost profits for the company more than my salary :)
SeanBZA Reminds me of a navy rocket system that had a failure mode where a mode contact could fail internally causing wires to cross such that turning the rocket would launch it. Fortunately the most public incident used the non-nuclear warhead, so just wrecked a few civilian buildings that happened to be unoccupied.
paspartu2000 - It depends on the quality of the item. Where I work we have industrial switches, some are 44 years old. They use threaded machine screw studs (with slot heads) to screw together. I’m not 100% sure what metal the studs are made of, but they don’t rust. I presume they are bright plated brass. The most used units last about 15 to 20 years (around 50 to 100 operations a day). The ones that are around 44 years old are only used occasionally. Our biggest problem now is that the style used was discontinued many years ago. So on failure of any part, a complete new switch with new switch blocks needs to be fitted.
@@SuperAWaC Actually on a relay computer you would have a regular clock and that clock would time sequences of relays to fire depending on instruction being executed, transfers from and to memory, etc.
Good content clive always a thumbsup. I was thinking, some of my favorite content is the educational stuff about dangerous stuff like radiation, UV, asbestos , toxic stuff and its effects on humans with some stories. Anyone else want to see more like this?
You’re helping me design my electrical panel box for my boat,,,so far the Husky clear assortment case is my choice for the box,,it’s waterproof and easy to open,,the switches are cool
seems the original air date was middle of 1997 according to here> en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Secret_War_of_Lisa_Simpson clearly you wasn't the only one showing their age, as gone was the highschool "daze/haze" and well off into the world of slave-laboring(work) I was ;)
Out of all the industrial switch contacts I've tried, Siemens ACT and Schneider's Harmony seems the best. No nuts for the front stuff so they don't rotate as easily, nut-locked have a tendency to come loose. I prefer the Siemens ones the most tho. Also, both Siemens and Schneider does not put any force through the LED modules, so no stack height will break the LED module, other issues might occur tho.
i love watching bigclive's videos ,i always find the content fascinating when i was a young boy i was constantly pulling things apart and i was mr fix it to my whole family ,those times have long gone but i love these videos cos im taken right back to my childhood but with an expert explanation from the soothing honey voice of big clive ,make me spell bound i could an do watch his videos for hours ,and its such a pleasure
I think I just thought of an actual use for this thing. You could use it for a random seed generator. Like for some sort of gaming device maybe. Sort of an electro-mechanical version of the classic slot machine lever. Kind of an over complicated solution to a problem that doesn't really exist, but that's the sort of thing I love.
Apple II computers did that. They generated a random seed number every time you pressed a key. They had a counter that ran off of the 1mhz CPU clock and saved the number on the counter each time a key was pressed.
This is why we don't use cheep switches in industrial equipment. Units made by Eaton/ Cutter Hammer don't stack in that order the can be stacked but they also get mounted on the sides. Then again you feed the output to a latching relay and job is done.
Cutler-hammer. Automation direct has some good switches, no chinesium, that go for 1/4 of the price. I haven't tried them yet but they recently got a Japanese brand that looks promising.
I think the difference in force required for the red and green switches is due to the length of stroke required. It looked to me like NC would break before NO would make. Handy if you needed that option.
One day I put 5 general purpose relay cards in my HP Multiplex/Switch unit and programmed it to switch all 50 relays (nearly) simultaneously. The sound is amazing. I don’t know why, but the sound of relays is so soothing.
This video was great, it was both useless information that I will never need and yet highly entertaining and enjoyable. But then again I watch videos of cars getting towed from a parking lot in Dallas TX.
@@MrHack4never Yes, I was debating which to use, the 11'8" or the tow channel. I figured either one would get the attention of those in the know, the subscribers seem to subscribe to both channels.
What Clive has is a very particular set of scales. Scales he has acquired over a very long career. Scales that make him a nightmare for people like Chinese button manufacturers ;)
You were pressing the buttons while supporting the assembly from the very back end, but they are designed to be held by the hole in panel just behind the face of the button. Can the clips that hold the first switch contact to the button even hold up to that kind of force?
Also, you'd not typically need one button to simultaneously activate both a NO _and_ a NC switch -- so the activation force required, on average, is 350 grams per unit, for an n-tuple stack, rather than the calculated 700 grams. Given the design of these switches, though, reducing the activation force required would entail Dremeling away the unneeded nib on each unit…
Come on big Clive love your work but grouping industry switchers. Left hand ,right hand ,left foot and right foot on the final safety switch how am I going to eat my 240v hot dog
@@14thZone Litres per 100 miles or miles per litre is certainly a retarded thing I just learnt about (going on a motorhome trip around England in a few months).
You know how it is with buttons! You put one up, write a sign that says "do not push this button", and people will start pushing it. If after pushing the button, a sign comes on that says "do not push this button again", people will push it at least twice.
Thanks Clive! Lol, I've always wondered about this... I'd love to see a relay in this form factor so you could "Lego build" relay logic. Totally pointless, but would be fun!
Rob Buchanan The relays traditionally used with these were Klöckner-Müller 11-pin relays inserted in holders on a DIN rail on the rear of the box. The same 11-hole sockets would also accept little flat electronic units doing things like delays, sensor amplifiers etc. TE no longer seems to use the KM brand for those kinds of products.
these really havent changed much of the years. i bought a boatload back in 04-05' when i had a few break on my machines. i even used one in a work truck to start it because i was cheap and didnt want to replace the over priced ignition switch.
The main force is supplied by a separate spring and not the switching contacts, so there's no noticeable reduction in force as the contacts switch. The springs in the contacts are only there to ensure the contacts move swiftly at the moment of switching.
I ganged 10x LA38 contact modules up and used a rotary head for the actuation and it was not much harder than using just one contact block. I think the cam action might have mechanical advantage here but interesting to note
I would love all those buttons for a train sim lol Open left doors, close left doors, parking brake, emergency engine stop, horn, bell, sander, and more
Could label the 10 banger 'push if you're really macho' another human factors / ergonomics consideration... I think it would be confusing to people operating the panel if some buttons required many times more force than the others. might end up with unwanted double presses etc as users try to make sure they pushed it properly.
I'll take 100 for my front door and get a nice brass plaque *"If you ring this bell, I will buy anything you are selling"* BTW ... Just in case they actually manage it ... it will activate a cattle prod.
Thank you, wow 15 lbs! I've wanted to try this for nearly 2 decades. If the push button part itself is mounted on a panel, will the yellow switches just go flying off from too much force on those clips?
I really prefer this style of switch which I tend to associate with Fanuc CNC controllers, though most of these switches I've seen are made by Siemens. Funny enough, the newer Siemens CNC controllers use a rather shitty switch by comparison where the pressure pad is a thin disc held in by a few molded clips. They always pop off and break.
Damit Big C Don't do that to me !! The title teaser !! What are you doing now ? One push button to many control blocks. You don't need teaser titles. We always watch no matter what you are doing !!! : ) USA code you can not stack push button contact blocks. I lived in China. You can do anything you want outside of the tier 1 cities !!! Never a Dull Moment : )
For a heavier weight, you would want a palm button. Not sure if they make them the way O am thinking, but with that much force you would need your whole hand to press that down comfortably.
I think it would work better as a toggle type switch,,the idea is great for simplicity in short areas like a boat where electrical work can be a nightmare
Cheap Chinese version of Highland switches, later marketed as EAO switches. The originals were a fantastic product, installed loads in Anglia Water MCC’s approx 30 years ago.
*clutches fist* I hate you Clive! *stares at his new soldering iron, and a few kits* These Chinese cheapo batches came without instructions and I've never been happier about my DSLR. Those darn resistor codes are friggin' hard to read 😁 AND THANK HEAVEN for online resistor calculators!!... when I input the right colours, in the right order 😂 Hahaha no honestly, thanks a lot for the inspiration 👍
@@bigclivedotcom I don't have notifications for other than direct (E: tagged) replies or thumbs up - Hence why I haven't responded until now. Thanks a bunch for the tip! I could've sworn the kit I purchased had a meter in it, but sadly it didn't.. I was kinda looking forward to poking stuff 🙄 And I already kinda did that, leave them on my mouse mat after identifying them and I'm trying to get in the habit of soldering them the same way if there's multiple of one single kind.. I'm usually not this tidy/organized but I think it'll pay off in the end :D About poking stuff: I've already ruined at least one kit PCB - I thought I was clever and hot glued the PCB to something to give it some height. *giggles* I also had it angled, and it worked great for a while! Right until some solder splattered down into a pin hole 😂 I couldn't clean it for the life of me, ended burning my finger and resorting to heating the hole while prying with a pincer.. Result: The copper pad left the PCB 👌😁 Oh god I'm having so much fun, thanks a bunch for the inspiration to finally pick up the equipment and kits!! Hope that my story/experience can at least give a few giggles :D
Is it my brain? When I hear Clive say: "I will light the LED." I thought of him grabbing his cigarette lighter and testing what it takes to burn the poor LED :)
Um yes, but no. Clive does have a history of 'excessively violent' disassembly, so mistaking the statement to mean setting an LED on fire is understandable - lol!
No filcker on the Hopi. Where is Clive and what have you done with him? I used those stacking switches for a high load motor,my logic was more contacts to decide the amps, didn't work the modules failed and melted in a progressive increasingly violent manner. DC 60v. Had trouble finding a well priced contactor .
I've had contact meltdown with DC inductive loads due to sustained arcing across the open contacts. In my case I wired a few contacts on the same relay in series to make a longer contact gap.
What are the chances of you doing a teardown of a s art WiFi bulb and a T8 led strip light and then modifying the T8 to use the WiFi control of the smart switch?
I'm quire sure the contacts themselves aren't causing that much tension. You could remove the springs from all back the back 2 switches and see how easy it is to press.
In an industrial application you wouldn't normally have more than 2 switch contacts on a switch. In fact you would normally have only one and then use that switch to control some relays to do all the switching.
Old video but I wonder if it is possible to modify the lights to incandecent instead of LED. Because especially the white ones with own printed labels in it lit by an incandecent lamp would be much more visual appealing on retro equipment than the white led-ones. For example 5V circuit with 1W 6V lamps so they are slightly underdriven and much slower in warmup and cooldown time.
Instead of the push button get the Estop button mushroom head, or the rotary actuator, as that, in the 3 way version, allows you to operate each switch half independently. For the best get the start stop button head, which separates out NO and NC sides nicely. Yes have done the capacitor delete, to get the 220VAC versions to run on 12VDC, and they are pretty bright there.
It's not the pressure, it's the fact that there is only so much throw to push the next switch and what you get is that at some point there isn't enough throw to make the switch after so many switches in line.
I was one of the ones who knew about the doll video but didn't realize it was Clive - I subbed to Clive for other reasons and then sort of double-taked when I realized he was Mr. Fanny Flambeaux.
Clive if you get a chance. On the real switches what kind of screwdriver bit is used. It's not a true Phillips head it's kind of like a deep point with on long slot and one short slot. But most of us use electrical slotted screw driver.
There are two variants of the industrial screws. Pozi-flat and phillips-flat and both have actual screwdrivers to match. Some of the Wera kits come with the matching tips.
@@bigclivedotcom Which is really just an attempt to get a better fit on screws designed to be 'universal' (because, apparently, electricians don't have tools) instead of just moving to a more appropriate drive, such as torx. So now there are two more types of drive to carry around. Wera call it PlusMinus, CK call it Modulo, I call it insane. Tool manufacturers must love it.
I can't find these on aliexpress -- any search terms I should be trying? EDIT: For those looking, "22mm push button switch" seems to do it. The 22mm part is what gets these over other buttons!
I want to see a switch panel with a switch labeled "do not press", and every time someone presses it a technician comes and adds a module to it.
Maybe you could remove all the contacts but superglue the button, so you can watch people's frustration as they are unable to press the 'do not press' button
And suddenly I got a slightly sadistic idea...
What I'm getting at would be installing an egg pick with snap action in the body of a button bottom up so when you press it you get that nice tactile snap, and a sharp needle poking into your finger. It would be instant karma for anyone feeling the urge to press the forbidden button...
There is some serious ASMR going on with that 10 button stack. It's really satisfying.
at 13:00 is where you really tell the casual viewers from the serious electronicists.
Casual viewers (e.g. me): Yay, the Hopi's not flickering. I LIKE this new camera setting.
Electronicists: Looks like the current draw is below the Hopi's detection threshhold.
Note to self:
Use one button to trigger an array of relays instead....
The sound of all the contacts rapidly clicking on is very satisfying for some reason.
Some switches have removable springs with a mechanism that still provides snap action as long as there is one spring left in the stack. (It made a difference if it was at the bottom or top of the stack.)
With those switches, all of the buttons in a panel can be configured to take the same force to actuate.
If stacked too high, there is too much slack, and the bottom switch won't activate reliably.
Also, an enclosure that will take much more than a four contact block stack can get costly. And the ones big enough to handle that would typically have the buttons on the door so that when you opened it you would be smacked in the face with a contact block club. LOL!
4PDT relays are hella cheap when times get tough...
I thought when I was watching that I've come across exactly this somewhere. Can't remember the make though.
Hello and welcome to the Gaelic Press Channel…
1,2,3 and here vee go!
@@backtoearth1983 Clive win, button loose.
Read that as garlic press.. lol
@@qwertyqwerty6099 I read that as -gay-lic... lol
@@QoraxAudio OMG! lmao..you really are baddd!
There may be a different failure mode if a large stack is actually mounted in a hole. Quite different than pushing down on the whole stack.
Especially as they age, and the clips pop off somewhere after the first position, leading to some "interesting" actions on pushing the button. A good reason to use the type that do not clip together, but instead screw into each other, a lot more robust.
@@SeanBZA nope in reality a good snap on type is more service able and secure too
we are talking about industrial equipment easy service is more important than lasting a "lifetime" , if you try to change a contact from the older telemecanique buttons ( a very good button of the screw fast in type ) with the screw type fastener after 5 years of use in industrial invirement
ohh man that screw had rust stuck in the soccet and you will use eventually a hammer to smash all the button out , and contacts (specialy N/C) are things to regulary change because they fill with dust , oils, water , soy, fish eggs ,what ever that industry produces , and a 5 mins job to change a contact ends up 30mins long with lost profits for the company more than my salary :)
SeanBZA Reminds me of a navy rocket system that had a failure mode where a mode contact could fail internally causing wires to cross such that turning the rocket would launch it. Fortunately the most public incident used the non-nuclear warhead, so just wrecked a few civilian buildings that happened to be unoccupied.
paspartu2000 - It depends on the quality of the item. Where I work we have industrial switches, some are 44 years old. They use threaded machine screw studs (with slot heads) to screw together. I’m not 100% sure what metal the studs are made of, but they don’t rust. I presume they are bright plated brass. The most used units last about 15 to 20 years (around 50 to 100 operations a day). The ones that are around 44 years old are only used occasionally. Our biggest problem now is that the style used was discontinued many years ago. So on failure of any part, a complete new switch with new switch blocks needs to be fitted.
The large stack sounds somewhat like sequential relays activating on a old telephone exchange, or in a relay computer.
those were relay logic though, relay logic sounds less chaotic than that
@@SuperAWaC Actually on a relay computer you would have a regular clock and that clock would time sequences of relays to fire depending on instruction being executed, transfers from and to memory, etc.
I need a SP1235P switch please. Also, one hydraulic bottle jack to operate it.
I have found that 4 3 ft thick steel plates and a 250 megaton nuke are enough to operate one of those if you can't get the bottle jack...
I'd buy that for a Dollar!
I've only just started watching, but the thumbnail made my mind jump straight to AvE's concept of "kachunk-kachunk switch" :D
Good content clive always a thumbsup. I was thinking, some of my favorite content is the educational stuff about dangerous stuff like radiation, UV, asbestos , toxic stuff and its effects on humans with some stories. Anyone else want to see more like this?
"You have to MEAN it to press this button."
Good idea, put ten together and set it to make an alarm go off that announces some twat just pressed the do not press button 😅
a very strong one at that
Could be a nice gag gift for Ralphy...
@@netslayeruk that adds to the joke, because they have to have pushed it on purpose against all warning
Here's your nuclear button Mr. President...
But I just can’t push it
That button's youuuuuuuuge! Bigger than North Korea's! LOL
@@christastic100 He doesn't need to push it himself when he has a God Emperor Mecha Battle bot to do it for him! :P
Fun fact: The linear regression of the measurements would be y=0.72x+0.3 which gives a staggering 7.5 Kg for the stack of 10 switches!
You’re helping me design my electrical panel box for my boat,,,so far the Husky clear assortment case is my choice for the box,,it’s waterproof and easy to open,,the switches are cool
Flashback to Bart Simpson with the megaphones (TESTING)
Grrawk! Testing!
sounds like mid 1990's simpson's, someone showing there age ehh?
@@throttlebottle5906
Excuse me!
How rude!
Lol.
😋
seems the original air date was middle of 1997 according to here> en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Secret_War_of_Lisa_Simpson
clearly you wasn't the only one showing their age, as gone was the highschool "daze/haze" and well off into the world of slave-laboring(work) I was ;)
Out of all the industrial switch contacts I've tried, Siemens ACT and Schneider's Harmony seems the best. No nuts for the front stuff so they don't rotate as easily, nut-locked have a tendency to come loose. I prefer the Siemens ones the most tho. Also, both Siemens and Schneider does not put any force through the LED modules, so no stack height will break the LED module, other issues might occur tho.
i love watching bigclive's videos ,i always find the content fascinating when i was a young boy i was constantly pulling things apart and i was mr fix it to my whole family ,those times have long gone but i love these videos cos im taken right back to my childhood but with an expert explanation from the soothing honey voice of big clive ,make me spell bound i could an do watch his videos for hours ,and its such a pleasure
Second switch required an additional 800g, not 700g, fwiw. The 220/380 V is 220 VAC single phase, which equates to 380 VAC three phase. Thanks Clive.
I think I just thought of an actual use for this thing. You could use it for a random seed generator. Like for some sort of gaming device maybe. Sort of an electro-mechanical version of the classic slot machine lever. Kind of an over complicated solution to a problem that doesn't really exist, but that's the sort of thing I love.
Apple II computers did that. They generated a random seed number every time you pressed a key. They had a counter that ran off of the 1mhz CPU clock and saved the number on the counter each time a key was pressed.
The Lego blocks of the industrial push button world.
I can't help myself, but with every added switch I heared an AVE style "uuuuurrrrrr.. KLICK" :)
AvE click its his calibrated tourqe elbow nothing to do with pressing force jeez 😑
I still hear "corntact" while working.
Clive you mention you’re testing new camera settings, to me this looks much better than your recent videos
This is the kind of quality content we come here for.
The color and picture looks fine to me :) nicely clear and crisp which is the important bit
This is why we don't use cheep switches in industrial equipment. Units made by Eaton/ Cutter Hammer don't stack in that order the can be stacked but they also get mounted on the sides. Then again you feed the output to a latching relay and job is done.
Cutler-hammer.
Automation direct has some good switches, no chinesium, that go for 1/4 of the price. I haven't tried them yet but they recently got a Japanese brand that looks promising.
Your majestic voice is literally shaking my desk XD
I think the difference in force required for the red and green switches is due to the length of stroke required. It looked to me like NC would break before NO would make. Handy if you needed that option.
Today, Clive plays inverse switch Jenga.
I love how they sound like an Agilent Multiplexer when they all switch together.
One day I put 5 general purpose relay cards in my HP Multiplex/Switch unit and programmed it to switch all 50 relays (nearly) simultaneously. The sound is amazing. I don’t know why, but the sound of relays is so soothing.
This video was great, it was both useless information that I will never need and yet highly entertaining and enjoyable.
But then again I watch videos of cars getting towed from a parking lot in Dallas TX.
Have you heard about the 11foot8 (sic) bridge?
the one that opens beds of rental trucks like a can of tuna
@@MrHack4never Yes, I was debating which to use, the 11'8" or the tow channel. I figured either one would get the attention of those in the know, the subscribers seem to subscribe to both channels.
What Clive has is a very particular set of scales. Scales he has acquired over a very long career. Scales that make him a nightmare for people like Chinese button manufacturers ;)
You were pressing the buttons while supporting the assembly from the very back end, but they are designed to be held by the hole in panel just behind the face of the button. Can the clips that hold the first switch contact to the button even hold up to that kind of force?
Also, you'd not typically need one button to simultaneously activate both a NO _and_ a NC switch -- so the activation force required, on average, is 350 grams per unit, for an n-tuple stack, rather than the calculated 700 grams. Given the design of these switches, though, reducing the activation force required would entail Dremeling away the unneeded nib on each unit…
"700 grams of force" my eye started twitching when Clive said that, lol
That's what I like about using lbs. for measurement. None of that kg/N thing to worry about. But then there's having to use slugs.
@@mysock351C 1 slug being 32.17404856lbs, showing again the whole beauty and convertibility of this ancient imperial system.
Come on big Clive love your work but grouping industry switchers. Left hand ,right hand ,left foot and right foot on the final safety switch how am I going to eat my 240v hot dog
It's fun being in a country stuck between two systems
@@14thZone
Litres per 100 miles or miles per litre is certainly a retarded thing I just learnt about (going on a motorhome trip around England in a few months).
Naughty Clive! kgf is not a standard unit. What if I wanted to use these switches in my moonbase?
well the fake moon landings was recorded in metric 35mm so ?
Newton is better than oldton?
Then they'll have to put different springs in surely?
As usual another informative and interesting video, thanks for taking the time to do this.
If you account for the lack of zeroing the scales the last test comes out about right.
You know how it is with buttons! You put one up, write a sign that says "do not push this button", and people will start pushing it. If after pushing the button, a sign comes on that says "do not push this button again", people will push it at least twice.
Clive has a particular set of scales.
No?
I’ll see myself out.
Thanks Clive! Lol, I've always wondered about this... I'd love to see a relay in this form factor so you could "Lego build" relay logic. Totally pointless, but would be fun!
Rob Buchanan The relays traditionally used with these were Klöckner-Müller 11-pin relays inserted in holders on a DIN rail on the rear of the box. The same 11-hole sockets would also accept little flat electronic units doing things like delays, sensor amplifiers etc. TE no longer seems to use the KM brand for those kinds of products.
these really havent changed much of the years. i bought a boatload back in 04-05' when i had a few break on my machines. i even used one in a work truck to start it because i was cheap and didnt want to replace the over priced ignition switch.
Electroboom sent me , excellent channel , subscribed .
So about 2-3 is about as far as you would want to go, 4 at most! Great video, I'd like to get a few of these, blue and red with 2 switched each,
Since they snap over, each one switching should reduce the force to switch the rest (a little bit) so they should cascade and not have a lot of delay.
The main force is supplied by a separate spring and not the switching contacts, so there's no noticeable reduction in force as the contacts switch. The springs in the contacts are only there to ensure the contacts move swiftly at the moment of switching.
You forgot to zero out the scales when you measured the pressure of operating a single plunger.
I ganged 10x LA38 contact modules up and used a rotary head for the actuation and it was not much harder than using just one contact block. I think the cam action might have mechanical advantage here but interesting to note
Switch Kerplunk!!!! This is clearly the game played in The Mitre on the Main road!!!
Wow I actually thought of that in your last video but didn’t expect to see it actually happen
I would love all those buttons for a train sim lol
Open left doors, close left doors, parking brake, emergency engine stop, horn, bell, sander, and more
I seem to remember a device of many years ago very similar to the Quicktest but it was called a Safebloc. Or is my feeble memory playing tricks on me.
Yes it existed. I think it has the hinge down back and white piano-style keys.
Yes indeed I still have two safebloc's in use on my workshop bench at the moment.
Do you need return springs for all of them? Can you perhaps only have the spring on the bottom most one?
I like this new setting on the camera :)
Could label the 10 banger 'push if you're really macho'
another human factors / ergonomics consideration... I think it would be confusing to people operating the panel if some buttons required many times more force than the others. might end up with unwanted double presses etc as users try to make sure they pushed it properly.
joinedupjon Hence the LED
On the same idea, could it be that some people only get to activate some of the switches?
@@350606 might count as childproof... or you could implement a 'no wimps' featrure
You made a 10PDT momentary switch. Nice.
ms_enj It's actually 20PST. Each block is DPST with half the poles NC.
I'll take 100 for my front door and get a nice brass plaque *"If you ring this bell, I will buy anything you are selling"*
BTW ... Just in case they actually manage it ... it will activate a cattle prod.
Now that I know how it works, I want to sell you a single sheet of paper for 10 Billion €.
I like these switches, I may have to get some!
Your hands look 20 years younger in that light 👍
The lighting is much better ! Some of the older videos look quite dark to me.
i like the camera settings feels more natural color then before which was kinda orange.
Would be cool having a switch like that on something serious
Nice one clive, I was left wondering how that would look like after the other video...
Thank you, wow 15 lbs! I've wanted to try this for nearly 2 decades. If the push button part itself is mounted on a panel, will the yellow switches just go flying off from too much force on those clips?
It would probably have a short functional life.
Hello Clive, thx for your vids :)
Where can we find your secure connexion box with the red flap?
It's a Cliff quicktest. I made a video about it.
Thank you! I haven't explored all your videos yet, I will search for it.
Big Clive your local switch merchant! Can you take the springs out of some as suggested
still learning using you videos man they are always 👌 👌 big fan
1 to 2 is 0.8 Kg, no?
its in steps ...
Kelvin-grams? 😉
@@girlsdrinkfeck No, there's just "H" in Steps. All the other members had normal names. :P
@@dstarfire42 I like the wide mouth lady
I really prefer this style of switch which I tend to associate with Fanuc CNC controllers, though most of these switches I've seen are made by Siemens. Funny enough, the newer Siemens CNC controllers use a rather shitty switch by comparison where the pressure pad is a thin disc held in by a few molded clips. They always pop off and break.
Damit Big C Don't do that to me !! The title teaser !! What are you doing now ? One push button to many control blocks. You don't need teaser titles. We always watch no matter what you are doing !!! : ) USA code you can not stack push button contact blocks. I lived in China. You can do anything you want outside of the tier 1 cities !!! Never a Dull Moment : )
We could put the word Clive behind the lens as the big legend
For a heavier weight, you would want a palm button. Not sure if they make them the way O am thinking, but with that much force you would need your whole hand to press that down comfortably.
I do have are a very particular set of scales. Scales I have acquired over a very long career. Scales that make me a nightmare for people like you.
I think it would work better as a toggle type switch,,the idea is great for simplicity in short areas like a boat where electrical work can be a nightmare
Cheap Chinese version of Highland switches, later marketed as EAO switches. The originals were a fantastic product, installed loads in Anglia Water MCC’s approx 30 years ago.
I love those. Industrial stuff all the way!!!
*clutches fist*
I hate you Clive!
*stares at his new soldering iron, and a few kits*
These Chinese cheapo batches came without instructions and I've never been happier about my DSLR.
Those darn resistor codes are friggin' hard to read 😁
AND THANK HEAVEN for online resistor calculators!!... when I input the right colours, in the right order 😂
Hahaha no honestly, thanks a lot for the inspiration 👍
If in doubt, just test the resistors with a meter then place them on a bit of paper or tray with the values written next to them.
@@bigclivedotcom I don't have notifications for other than direct (E: tagged) replies or thumbs up - Hence why I haven't responded until now.
Thanks a bunch for the tip! I could've sworn the kit I purchased had a meter in it, but sadly it didn't.. I was kinda looking forward to poking stuff 🙄
And I already kinda did that, leave them on my mouse mat after identifying them and I'm trying to get in the habit of soldering them the same way if there's multiple of one single kind.. I'm usually not this tidy/organized but I think it'll pay off in the end :D
About poking stuff: I've already ruined at least one kit PCB - I thought I was clever and hot glued the PCB to something to give it some height.
*giggles* I also had it angled, and it worked great for a while! Right until some solder splattered down into a pin hole 😂
I couldn't clean it for the life of me, ended burning my finger and resorting to heating the hole while prying with a pincer..
Result: The copper pad left the PCB 👌😁
Oh god I'm having so much fun, thanks a bunch for the inspiration to finally pick up the equipment and kits!!
Hope that my story/experience can at least give a few giggles :D
Clive, what is the name of those switch in the Ebay search you did? i like them very much.
pushbutton switches la38
You've reset the scale before putting the buttons on it at 16:14. So you should subtract about 100g
Is it my brain? When I hear Clive say: "I will light the LED." I thought of him grabbing his cigarette lighter and testing what it takes to burn the poor LED :)
Um yes, but no. Clive does have a history of 'excessively violent' disassembly, so mistaking the statement to mean setting an LED on fire is understandable - lol!
No filcker on the Hopi. Where is Clive and what have you done with him? I used those stacking switches for a high load motor,my logic was more contacts to decide the amps, didn't work the modules failed and melted in a progressive increasingly violent manner. DC 60v. Had trouble finding a well priced contactor .
I've had contact meltdown with DC inductive loads due to sustained arcing across the open contacts. In my case I wired a few contacts on the same relay in series to make a longer contact gap.
So with 15 modules together you'll get an old cigarette commercial... "I'd rather fight than switch"
Now would that make it a series switch or a parallel switch 😅🧐
Great informative video Clive
What are the chances of you doing a teardown of a s art WiFi bulb and a T8 led strip light and then modifying the T8 to use the WiFi control of the smart switch?
I'm quire sure the contacts themselves aren't causing that much tension. You could remove the springs from all back the back 2 switches and see how easy it is to press.
In an industrial application you wouldn't normally have more than 2 switch contacts on a switch. In fact you would normally have only one and then use that switch to control some relays to do all the switching.
Michael Webber Unless it's required to securely affect independent circuits directly (common requirement for emergency stop buttons).
Old video but I wonder if it is possible to modify the lights to incandecent instead of LED. Because especially the white ones with own printed labels in it lit by an incandecent lamp would be much more visual appealing on retro equipment than the white led-ones. For example 5V circuit with 1W 6V lamps so they are slightly underdriven and much slower in warmup and cooldown time.
You could use a low voltage and low power tungsten lamp.
Instead of the push button get the Estop button mushroom head, or the rotary actuator, as that, in the 3 way version, allows you to operate each switch half independently. For the best get the start stop button head, which separates out NO and NC sides nicely. Yes have done the capacitor delete, to get the 220VAC versions to run on 12VDC, and they are pretty bright there.
No more Hopi Flicker??? Can it be true?? Is that permanent Clive? Can I stop blinking super fast to cancel it out now?
Alas no. That only works when I turn off the light and the shutter speed is longer.
@@bigclivedotcom ... guess I'll go back to waving my fingers I front of the tv real fast.
👍 to new camera settings
It's not the pressure, it's the fact that there is only so much throw to push the next switch and what you get is that at some point there isn't enough throw to make the switch after so many switches in line.
I subbed to this channel because of a doll blowing sparks from her fanny
Didn't we all?
Hmm no I think for me it was a big butt plug
It was gay death daleks for me
I was one of the ones who knew about the doll video but didn't realize it was Clive - I subbed to Clive for other reasons and then sort of double-taked when I realized he was Mr. Fanny Flambeaux.
Clive if you get a chance. On the real switches what kind of screwdriver bit is used. It's not a true Phillips head it's kind of like a deep point with on long slot and one short slot. But most of us use electrical slotted screw driver.
There are two variants of the industrial screws. Pozi-flat and phillips-flat and both have actual screwdrivers to match. Some of the Wera kits come with the matching tips.
@@bigclivedotcom Which is really just an attempt to get a better fit on screws designed to be 'universal' (because, apparently, electricians don't have tools) instead of just moving to a more appropriate drive, such as torx. So now there are two more types of drive to carry around. Wera call it PlusMinus, CK call it Modulo, I call it insane.
Tool manufacturers must love it.
I’m glad I wasn’t the only person who was thinking the same thing
I can't find these on aliexpress -- any search terms I should be trying? EDIT: For those looking, "22mm push button switch" seems to do it. The 22mm part is what gets these over other buttons!
Question Clive...
Is it possible to stack them out of sequence?
So one switch is on and the other is off?
😨 What do you mean _"STOP THE PRESSES ! ? !"_ Do you have any idea how _hard_ it is to push that button???
11:45 a.k.a. How to Piss Off Someone Who Has Arthritis.
In my opinion the old camera setting was better. To use the scale for measuring activation force is a clever idea