You've built an amazing speaker and explained its function quite well. Congratulations on a successful refurbishment-- I would love to hear them in person. From a fellow ESL builder, kudos to you, sir! Charlie (a.k.a. Jazzman from Jazzman's DIY ESL Page).
I should have shouted out Rob at ER Audio who supplied the mylar and conductive fluid (this time around) as well as providing lots of advice. He sells electrostatic speakers in diy kit form, although this one is of my design, and worth a look if you want to build your own.
I am about to start on my electrostatic panel build. Your video is really informative. I am going to using the direct drive approach. Iam doing the design by George Sifaki (1993) article. I would like to see more articles on the mylar stretching. thanks
Really interesting video. I have a pair of ESL IVs from E R Audio here in Australia. These are supplied in kit form. Similar size to your speakers and I combine with a B&W 10 sealed sub. They sound amazing, in a different league to any box speaker.
Don't you think that the low freq driver cause a short when an air pushes a membrane during a big punch? I'd try to direct them at least 45 degree to the panels.
*_WELL DONE!!!_* What a cool A-Levels project! Have you published schematics for the power supply/system anywhere? Questions: 1) In watching pro EM speaker fabrication, I noticed that the membrane is coated _prior_ to tensioning and adhesion. Why did you invert that order? 2) I noticed (and I'm sure you did too) that the membrane is *not* evenly tensioned after your adhesion. What are your thoughts on why that is? I theorise that tensioning your membrane onto a larger frame, then lowering your tensioned membrane over your housing (allowing you to roll the membrane on the tape _while still under tension attached to the larger frame)_ might solve this, however I also noted that most of your slack was located on the tweeters... Perhaps the solution is to tension the membrane, adhere it to the woofer *only,* then _retention_ the excess on the tweeter side before adhering it there is the solution? 3) Any thoughts on the value (and feasibility) of a curved design? I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Hi ross, i did not produce any schematics (that are worth sharing). I would suggest getting a book like 'electrostatic speaker cookbook'. The curved design (like ML) give good and even dispersion but cause more distortion and are more difficult to make. There is no down side of coating post stretch, but with the conductive coating is used it would be nearly impossible to coat direct from the roll
You've built an amazing speaker and explained its function quite well. Congratulations on a successful refurbishment-- I would love to hear them in person. From a fellow ESL builder, kudos to you, sir! Charlie (a.k.a. Jazzman from Jazzman's DIY ESL Page).
Wow… super cool!
I’d love to watch more of the actual fabrication process - even in Timelapse form. The Mylar stretching was fascinating 😊
The results are amazing sounding! The lack of "box" coloration is immediate an obvious - - - very cool project to post - thanks!
I should have shouted out Rob at ER Audio who supplied the mylar and conductive fluid (this time around) as well as providing lots of advice. He sells electrostatic speakers in diy kit form, although this one is of my design, and worth a look if you want to build your own.
I am about to start on my electrostatic panel build. Your video is really informative. I am going to using the direct drive approach. Iam doing the design by George Sifaki (1993) article. I would like to see more articles on the mylar stretching. thanks
Really interesting video. I have a pair of ESL IVs from E R Audio here in Australia. These are supplied in kit form. Similar size to your speakers and I combine with a B&W 10 sealed sub. They sound amazing, in a different league to any box speaker.
any chance you might publish salient details so that one could build something similar?
Amazing Video! The stretching setup looks precise. How do they sound?
Amazing. Very impressed.
Don't you think that the low freq driver cause a short when an air pushes a membrane during a big punch? I'd try to direct them at least 45 degree to the panels.
*_WELL DONE!!!_*
What a cool A-Levels project!
Have you published schematics for the power supply/system anywhere?
Questions:
1) In watching pro EM speaker fabrication, I noticed that the membrane is coated _prior_ to tensioning and adhesion. Why did you invert that order?
2) I noticed (and I'm sure you did too) that the membrane is *not* evenly tensioned after your adhesion. What are your thoughts on why that is? I theorise that tensioning your membrane onto a larger frame, then lowering your tensioned membrane over your housing (allowing you to roll the membrane on the tape _while still under tension attached to the larger frame)_ might solve this, however I also noted that most of your slack was located on the tweeters... Perhaps the solution is to tension the membrane, adhere it to the woofer *only,* then _retention_ the excess on the tweeter side before adhering it there is the solution?
3) Any thoughts on the value (and feasibility) of a curved design?
I look forward to hearing your thoughts.
Hi ross, i did not produce any schematics (that are worth sharing). I would suggest getting a book like 'electrostatic speaker cookbook'. The curved design (like ML) give good and even dispersion but cause more distortion and are more difficult to make. There is no down side of coating post stretch, but with the conductive coating is used it would be nearly impossible to coat direct from the roll
Where do you source your stator from?
Love them!
How use for coating?
Graphite is the worst coating. Resistance is low. Use crystal Licron.