Pros of arrow wraps are: - looks nice - arrows are easier to find in the grass - (probably) easier to replace the entire set of vanes Cons of arrow wraps are: - they cost money (and good ones dont come for free) - they slightly decrease F.O.C (not that much but definately measurable) - they create one more step in arrow fletching (and i can tell that they do not make the process easier) - they make it basically impossible to replace a single damages vane (and most of the time, thats what you want to do if the vane got damaged) My advice. If you tend to miss your target once in a while and have to search for your arrow, use them. In combination with highly visible vanes or feathers, they make the arrow so much more easy to find (chose the wrap color wisely, though). If you don't have that problem and you do not plan to switch your set of vanes or feathers on a regular basis, there is no real point in using them. Safe the money and don't buy the cheapest glue, you can find. Good glue makes it very easy to glue them on (and sticks quite well to the shaft) and can be fairly easyily removed from the shaft if necessary (even without a wrap). And by the way, do not spread the glue with your fingers, as superglue (which you should use) dries quite fast and is not easily removed from your fingers. Just use the tip of the glue tube instead. Doesn't contaminate the glue and makes spreading it easier. And as a last tip, clean the shafts with alcohol (the part where you want to attach your fletchlings). Only takes a few seconds to do and can improve the adhesion for some arrow shafts significantly.
Quick Fletch Boil water, dip, done. I fletched for yrs. If you are in a rush to get a lot done, quick fletch is nice. Although you can customize more with traditional fletching.
For anybody who doesn't know.... Superglue (Cyanoacrylate) accelerators are just very fine water misters. Don't waste your money on buying it :) Just remember you only need a very very fine mist to make it set quicker.
I followed all of the instructions, after wiping the excess glue, I had a scratch down south and I'm stuck. There are no directions to handle this. Any suggestions xD
When choosing feather, what shape/length should I consider and what are the differences between them? I shoot off the shelf on a recurve. I’m new to archery and do not have someone to ask. I wore out the stock feathers with a quickness.
If you are wearing out feathers by shooting (not because you are shooting through targets) it isn't because of the shape and length of your feathers, it means the feathers are getting a lot of contact with the shelf & riser. Make sure the cock feather is facing away from the riser then make sure the bow is tuned properly. Your feathers will make contact with the shelf & riser but not enough to knock them off. Shape and length combinations affect the amount of feather surface area to produce spin, which needs to be proportional to the kinetic energy of the arrow (weight and speed). 4 or 5 inch feathers are usually fine to shoot a recurve and parabolic is the most common shape.
Yes u can. But the bohning multi fletch will be a bit gentler on your feathers. But I've used the bitten with feathers for yrs. But don't waste your money on primer pens and specialty fletching glue. Its totally unnecessary. Use gorilla glue gel and it dries in 10 seconds and never comes off
I have a fletching jig from Bass Pro that will fletch about 5 arrows at a time but I am having trouble getting the whole part of the fletching to stick flat while trying to create an offset for the fletching. I am using a plastic (vinyl) vane and making sure the glue has covered the whole vane but when dry the vane is not seating itself to the arrow completely. Is it the wrong typ wrong.e of jig to use or is it something I am doing
Has anyone tested 4 fletch vs 3 fletch arrows with mechanical Broadhead for grouping and if so is it any better grouping with 4 fletch I know 4 fletch is better with fixed heads
have a question this is the only video I found that allowed comments but... I have a 26.5 draw so I lose speed but cutting an arrow that short witch make it stiffer will it benefit me to shoot a light arrow to try to get some speed back thx
If Mr self proclaimed T-Collins wasn't part of Nock On. I would have more respect for your tips John. Your a great guy! You don't need people like that.
Hey John, Thanks for these videos. I just got into archery a couple of months ago and I'm learning so much from your videos. Please keep em coming. BTW, What watch are you wearing?
hey been looking into ace fletching, and was just curious on why you decide to use them over other fletching (blazer). Would love for your input man big fan of the page!!!!
You need to learn how to apply the wrap, it come with a application foil that you should press on the wraps to remove it from the silicone backing. So the wrap is stabilized by the application foil, and not sticking to you greasy fingers. And then you use the application pad. But well what do I know! I´m just reading the instructions that come with the wraps.
+Bradley Hauf i recommend not using your finger on superglue lolz. ^-^ I recommend some type of other material like cardboard. Maybe some type of plastic. Possibly even cloth or towels. q-tips maybe.
If you work with CA glue often, you learn very quickly why gloves are important. It only takes a single incident of gluing your fingers together or to an object to learn the lesson.
No matter how perfect you think an arrow is... take the time to look inside you quiver and or the target that target you pulling your arrows out of... and you will find an offensive dust and or particles that will cause your arrows to be diverted enough to make a major difference in exactly where you shot. If your arrows are not wiped clean before each shot .. constant accuracy WILL be lost. You may not see the dust or particles but anyone with a decent microscope can! If you are a target shooter and don't do this.. help yourself & scores.
I see a lot of issues here One you need to bare shaft tune first after u spine index em 2 u need to fletch accordingly to that indexing I said to fletch in between the decals on the wrap but hey what do I know I’m not a paid tv pro
So I have a few issues with this. First I just finished watching another video by you where you go on and on about FOC and how important it is. Then you go on about what junk maximas are and how their budget is basically spent on great advertising versus a great product. I couldn't agree more with this conclusion. Which is why I find it ironic that you are on here marketing your arrow wraps that decrease FOC by at least a couple of grains. Also, you complained about how rolling carbon arrows creates a "high spot". Your wrap does the same thing. Watching the outdoor channel has become one long ad for new seed, arrows, binos, bows, etc. I timed your show and over 50% of the time was spent selling something instead of presenting a show. Its all hype people. Going out and buying this or that is good for one thing; motivation to get your ass to the range!!! Use it as that and not some magical cure-all for your form, or lack thereof
+Daniel Porter FOC is important, especially when it comes to hunting. However if your calculated FOC is above 12% you're in the clear. Putting on an arrow wrap isn't going to destroy your FOC. It makes it a lot easier to deal with refletching an arrow rather than scraping glue right off of the carbon. Granted if you replace one vane you have to replace all three and the wrap, but wraps and vanes are cheaper than arrows.
Daniel Porter sponsors are the only reason these shows are possible, the have to give their sponsors air time or they wouldn't even be able to make the show
+usernamemykel Dood. You aint from around here are you? It's like the word fudder. I'll use it in a sentence for you. "I can shoot an arrow fudder than you can." Don't be hating on our buddy John. I understand that it's just the jealousy talking. Another awesome John Dudley video! Thanks for making these informative videos. That's what usernamemykel meant to type;)
That's not an arrow it's a toy! Fletch a real arrow. Most of us out here in the real world do not use those pencil leads, we hunt. You need MASS not Speed !!!!
TheDave570 FYI. Many of these "pencil lead" (micro-diameter) arrows have a much higher grains per inch than more standard diameter arrows. In fact, I've been shooting some of the smallest diameter arrows available and easily achieve a 650 grain arrow with high FOC. The extra small arrow diameter reduces wind effect and aids greatly in penetration. Arrow mass does not equate to arrow diameter. According to the Ashby reports on arrow penetration, arrows of the same mass but different diameters, the smaller diameter arrow will always penetrate deeper than a larger diameter arrow if all other variables are equal. Food for thought.
lee Clancy..I don't dis-agree, however I don't want a skinny little pencil lead just slipping on through, as it were, I want the target to know it's been hit. I don't think weight,ie,650 grains, means mass and mass it what creates knock down power. I have a 50 lb Manchu, max draw length is 35 in. I shoot a 36 in 800 grain popular arrow. The bow was designed to shoot these massive arrows at short range and to penatrate plate armor which I might add does quite well at up to 35 to 50 yards. So arrow weight does not mean arrow mass. You could throw a 200 grain point on your arrow and have 6 or 7 hundred grains weight but still NO mass!! Food for thought.
TheDave570 Fair enough and to each his own. However, I would highly recommend reading the Ashby Reports. There isn't a more comprehensive collection of arrow penetration and lethality data.
Um... actually weight and mass are the same thing in this instance... If you have a 650 grain skinny arrow and want the target to "know it's been hit" then get a larger diameter broadhead. By the way, you don't need to be able to shoot through plate armor to shoot through a deer.
Pros of arrow wraps are:
- looks nice
- arrows are easier to find in the grass
- (probably) easier to replace the entire set of vanes
Cons of arrow wraps are:
- they cost money (and good ones dont come for free)
- they slightly decrease F.O.C (not that much but definately measurable)
- they create one more step in arrow fletching (and i can tell that they do not make the process easier)
- they make it basically impossible to replace a single damages vane (and most of the time, thats what you want to do if the vane got damaged)
My advice. If you tend to miss your target once in a while and have to search for your arrow, use them. In combination with highly visible vanes or feathers, they make the arrow so much more easy to find (chose the wrap color wisely, though). If you don't have that problem and you do not plan to switch your set of vanes or feathers on a regular basis, there is no real point in using them. Safe the money and don't buy the cheapest glue, you can find. Good glue makes it very easy to glue them on (and sticks quite well to the shaft) and can be fairly easyily removed from the shaft if necessary (even without a wrap).
And by the way, do not spread the glue with your fingers, as superglue (which you should use) dries quite fast and is not easily removed from your fingers. Just use the tip of the glue tube instead. Doesn't contaminate the glue and makes spreading it easier.
And as a last tip, clean the shafts with alcohol (the part where you want to attach your fletchlings). Only takes a few seconds to do and can improve the adhesion for some arrow shafts significantly.
Widur thanks for your advice. And about the glue I was thinking that myself too never use your fingers
Did you have a suggestion for glue
@@Charlie_Bravo_Echo loctite professional is my choice
Man I freaking love fletching. It's fun, relaxing, and satisfying. I wish I could afford all the arrows I wanted to fletch.
Quick Fletch Boil water, dip, done. I fletched for yrs. If you are in a rush to get a lot done, quick fletch is nice. Although you can customize more with traditional fletching.
What angle would you recommend for the placement of the vanes?
2.5°
For anybody who doesn't know.... Superglue (Cyanoacrylate) accelerators are just very fine water misters. Don't waste your money on buying it :) Just remember you only need a very very fine mist to make it set quicker.
So for arrows that carry 3 veins will the jig allow movement for the appropriate space between the vanes? Great video, thanks!!
Great Video, Thanks for sharing, Always great Tips!
Great video.thanks for makeing the video
I just ordered a Bitzenburger. I have been using an Arizona Mini but wanted to try something different.
+UTGrad Walker
You'll love it! It's built like a tank - solid and sturdy. Like Mr. WeeWee.
how is the Arizona mini flex?
Have not read good reviews about them.
Really?? What did they say?
They said that Sophia is a very smart person for ordering the better product.
I followed all of the instructions, after wiping the excess glue, I had a scratch down south and I'm stuck. There are no directions to handle this. Any suggestions xD
When choosing feather, what shape/length should I consider and what are the differences between them? I shoot off the shelf on a recurve. I’m new to archery and do not have someone to ask. I wore out the stock feathers with a quickness.
If you are wearing out feathers by shooting (not because you are shooting through targets) it isn't because of the shape and length of your feathers, it means the feathers are getting a lot of contact with the shelf & riser. Make sure the cock feather is facing away from the riser then make sure the bow is tuned properly. Your feathers will make contact with the shelf & riser but not enough to knock them off.
Shape and length combinations affect the amount of feather surface area to produce spin, which needs to be proportional to the kinetic energy of the arrow (weight and speed). 4 or 5 inch feathers are usually fine to shoot a recurve and parabolic is the most common shape.
Hi John, will heat shrink tubing work instead of the vinyl wrap?
If you never have to take it off. Ive had to remove shrink tube before. Even with heat, it is not fun
Great video thanks for the tips.
Can you use the bitzenburger jig to attach feather fletchings?
Yes u can. But the bohning multi fletch will be a bit gentler on your feathers. But I've used the bitten with feathers for yrs. But don't waste your money on primer pens and specialty fletching glue. Its totally unnecessary. Use gorilla glue gel and it dries in 10 seconds and never comes off
I have a fletching jig from Bass Pro that will fletch about 5 arrows at a time but I am having trouble getting the whole part of the fletching to stick flat while trying to create an offset for the fletching. I am using a plastic (vinyl) vane and making sure the glue has covered the whole vane but when dry the vane is not seating itself to the arrow completely. Is it the wrong typ wrong.e of jig to use or is it something I am doing
Has anyone tested 4 fletch vs 3 fletch arrows with mechanical Broadhead for grouping and if so is it any better grouping with 4 fletch I know 4 fletch is better with fixed heads
I always watch Johns videos on 1.25 speed - so I don't fall asleep.............
have a question this is the only video I found that allowed comments but... I have a 26.5 draw so I lose speed but cutting an arrow that short witch make it stiffer will it benefit me to shoot a light arrow to try to get some speed back thx
How can you tell what helical it’s set at
Do you need to spray "bobs" accelerator for each vane. So three sprays per arrow?
If Mr self proclaimed T-Collins wasn't part of Nock On. I would have more respect for your tips John. Your a great guy! You don't need people like that.
Hey John,
Thanks for these videos. I just got into archery a couple of months ago and I'm learning so much from your videos. Please keep em coming.
BTW, What watch are you wearing?
Soooo hate to ask this fearing the answer. Is it so bad if I just use contact cement !rubber glue) to attach my veins?
Thanks for the info, but why do You use wraps ?
Ivan Quin Protects the Carbonfibre, easier to rip a sticker off than chipping glue off CF.
Helps when replacing the fletchings.
Ha 4 years old.
hey been looking into ace fletching, and was just curious on why you decide to use them over other fletching (blazer). Would love for your input man big fan of the page!!!!
The only thing I don't like about that jig is you can't tell what your helical is set at
John could you explain what the vinyl actually does, does it have a legitimate purpose?
1-1/2 inch from the end of the shaft? It looks like 1-1/2 inch from the end of the nock.
You need to learn how to apply the wrap, it come with a application foil that you should press on the wraps to remove it from the silicone backing. So the wrap is stabilized by the application foil, and not sticking to you greasy fingers. And then you use the application pad. But well what do I know! I´m just reading the instructions that come with the wraps.
Because arrows are expensive! And Valuable Practice/Teaching Tools!!!!
+Bradley Hauf i recommend not using your finger on superglue lolz. ^-^ I recommend some type of other material like cardboard. Maybe some type of plastic. Possibly even cloth or towels.
q-tips maybe.
Standard super glue works just fine just make sure u got gloves on or your fingers will be gluey
If you work with CA glue often, you learn very quickly why gloves are important. It only takes a single incident of gluing your fingers together or to an object to learn the lesson.
No matter how perfect you think an arrow is... take the time to look inside you quiver and or the target that target you pulling your arrows out of... and you will find an offensive dust and or particles that will cause your arrows to be diverted enough to make a major difference in exactly where you shot. If your arrows are not wiped clean before each shot .. constant accuracy WILL be lost. You may not see the dust or particles but anyone with a decent microscope can! If you are a target shooter and don't do this.. help yourself & scores.
“Travelbility” is not a word.
Lew Walter it is if your a word smith
...it is now...
I suggest to get rid of the electric jewb box. It will help clear the cobwebs between your ears. That goes for everyone in here.
Compound arrows are easy!
I see a lot of issues here
One you need to bare shaft tune first after u spine index em
2 u need to fletch accordingly to that indexing I said to fletch in between the decals on the wrap but hey what do I know I’m not a paid tv pro
Super glue is great until it comes to replacing the fletchings. I would never use it without a wrap.
ing for that 99 fletching boi
Hey John, I know you hunt Utah, but we will keep those secrets to ourselves. Anyways wanna run $1K an arrow at the TAC this year?
Collusion is not illegal
So I have a few issues with this. First I just finished watching another video by you where you go on and on about FOC and how important it is. Then you go on about what junk maximas are and how their budget is basically spent on great advertising versus a great product. I couldn't agree more with this conclusion. Which is why I find it ironic that you are on here marketing your arrow wraps that decrease FOC by at least a couple of grains. Also, you complained about how rolling carbon arrows creates a "high spot". Your wrap does the same thing. Watching the outdoor channel has become one long ad for new seed, arrows, binos, bows, etc. I timed your show and over 50% of the time was spent selling something instead of presenting a show. Its all hype people. Going out and buying this or that is good for one thing; motivation to get your ass to the range!!! Use it as that and not some magical cure-all for your form, or lack thereof
+Daniel Porter FOC is important, especially when it comes to hunting. However if your calculated FOC is above 12% you're in the clear. Putting on an arrow wrap isn't going to destroy your FOC. It makes it a lot easier to deal with refletching an arrow rather than scraping glue right off of the carbon. Granted if you replace one vane you have to replace all three and the wrap, but wraps and vanes are cheaper than arrows.
Daniel Porter sponsors are the only reason these shows are possible, the have to give their sponsors air time or they wouldn't even be able to make the show
A couple of grains effecting FOC lol. My broadhead and insert is 300 grains. But, having that white arrow end is $$$
"Adheses"?
Umm, do you mean "adheres"?
+usernamemykel
Dood. You aint from around here are you? It's like the word fudder. I'll use it in a sentence for you. "I can shoot an arrow fudder than you can." Don't be hating on our buddy John. I understand that it's just the jealousy talking. Another awesome John Dudley video! Thanks for making these informative videos. That's what usernamemykel meant to type;)
"Dood"????You must be kidding - it's :"dude"!!
Dood, Lol, That's what I would have said when I was five years old too. Stop it man, your embarrassing yourself.
Perhaps put an insert and point in before you call it "done"?
Why fletch?
Fletching makes the arrow spin in flight, which makes it more stable.
Because you want to give yourself every advantage to make your shot.
or you can by a huge friggin' roll of vinyl dirt cheap
Geez, some of you clowns need to start your own channel and make your own videos. Great video John 🤙🏽
Who doesn't fletch their own arrows??
Adhesis? Lol
That's not an arrow it's a toy! Fletch a real arrow. Most of us out here in the real world do not use those pencil leads, we hunt. You need MASS not Speed !!!!
TheDave570 FYI. Many of these "pencil lead" (micro-diameter) arrows have a much higher grains per inch than more standard diameter arrows. In fact, I've been shooting some of the smallest diameter arrows available and easily achieve a 650 grain arrow with high FOC. The extra small arrow diameter reduces wind effect and aids greatly in penetration. Arrow mass does not equate to arrow diameter. According to the Ashby reports on arrow penetration, arrows of the same mass but different diameters, the smaller diameter arrow will always penetrate deeper than a larger diameter arrow if all other variables are equal. Food for thought.
lee Clancy..I don't dis-agree, however I don't want a skinny little pencil lead just slipping on through, as it were, I want the target to know it's been hit. I don't think weight,ie,650 grains, means mass and mass it what creates knock down power. I have a 50 lb Manchu, max draw length is 35 in. I shoot a 36 in 800 grain popular arrow. The bow was designed to shoot these massive arrows at short range and to penatrate plate armor which I might add does quite well at up to 35 to 50 yards. So arrow weight does not mean arrow mass. You could throw a 200 grain point on your arrow and have 6 or 7 hundred grains weight but still NO mass!! Food for thought.
TheDave570 Fair enough and to each his own. However, I would highly recommend reading the Ashby Reports. There isn't a more comprehensive collection of arrow penetration and lethality data.
Um... actually weight and mass are the same thing in this instance... If you have a 650 grain skinny arrow and want the target to "know it's been hit" then get a larger diameter broadhead. By the way, you don't need to be able to shoot through plate armor to shoot through a deer.