Simon Spiers yes I was prepared to give you the benefit of the doubt this time. Don’t tell me your speakers are connected with cryogenically frozen cables.?
AllTheGearNoIdea oh no of course not. But they are biwired and I have no tone controls. I worked at a top of the range hifi shop when I left school. Wish I had stayed in that profession. I know you doubt a lot of it, but some is quite creditable. A friend and I did a blind test with two audio interconnect cables. We could clearly hear the difference between the two but which was correct,who knows.
I've owned one for 30yrs plus and can't find anything that does the job better at playing music. It's true they're an expensive upkeep if you continually upgrade them but that's all part of owning one which allows you to to spend as much as you wish on it taking you to whatever level you decide suites you best.
Hi, Just to say thanks for the video. Much info I have never heard of, that will be really useful for My restoration of My very early Ariston /Linn. I have just pulled it from storage after I haven't used it for some 20 odd Years. Although in My experience these type of things will just work and only need a bit of cleaning and tweaking. Oh just one thing that might help You is that when setting up the speed, You can fit the main platter on Upside down. So You can see where the pulley is riding. Best Wishes Jahmahrah
Hi Simon. Nice video and a common-sense approach. A couple of tips for future use; when checking the belt / pulley alignment the outer platter can be placed upside-down which settles the suspension to running trim and ensures the belt is running on the correct part of the inner platter. When adjusting cartridge overhang Linn used to recommend removing the tonearm from the deck before final tightening of the cartridge screws as the torques involved could potentially damage the arm bearings. Thirdly did you tighten the "P" clip that secures the tonearm cable against the plinth (it looks very loose around the cable at approx. 00.28?). This was always an important point of Linn black magic set-up procedure. The art is to dress the led to ensure the cable isn't affecting the suspension movement (alignment and bounce should be identical with cable disconnected at the tonearm) and doesn't foul the plinth or baseboard. Then, once happy with the dressing of the cable, the "P" clip should be tightened - really tight - against the cable. In effect the cable forms a fourth "spring" for the suspension and the clip "grounds" vibrations at the plinth rather than conducting them into the armboard via the cable. Hope this helps and thanks for a brilliant video
Hi Russell thank you for you detailed setup info. I can't remember if I did put that clip back on now? I used to pop into a shop called Unilet in new Malden where I helped out after school. One of the staff named Peter Ockley used to set the lp12's up for customers. He used to show me how to do it but that was 35 years ago and a lot has been forgotten in that time. Truth is the arm bearings needed looking at when I made this video,they seemed a bit notchy. I was going to take the deck to a local hifi shop to set up the suspension but never got around to it. Also I'm not entirely sure I am happy with the ortofon setup. Seems a touch harsh to me?
@@SoddingaboutSi I did not know the Jocks manufacturerd anything, i just imagined Scotland to be hills and sheep but still, I will never buy made in Scotland as Made in the UK is much better, the Jock's should grow up and stop the hate of the UK and start putting made in the UK as without the English Tax Payer, Scotland would be a third world country if it were independent plus they will never be independent as England will never allow it 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
As a mental exercise substitute "Israel" for Scotland and "Jew" for "Jock" in @johndunnburgess' incredibly racist rant and imagine how far he'd get.... ;0)
Good stuff Simon, I usually just throw Led Zep II on my Garrard and be done with it :) I remember one of my friends dads back in the 70s having some high end music system that threw a light onto strobe markings built into the turntable. There was a twisty knob to adjust the speed of the motor. He also had a unit with TWIN cassette decks.
whereabouts did you download the strobe ? is it accurate are they all accurate ? The null points don't indicate overhang the arc drawn on a piece of card will give you overhang or knowing what it is from the spindle.
Set the outer platter (preferably upside down) onto the inner platter, and the added weight will speed up the process of settling the platter spindle to the bottom of the bearing well. This is only necessary for earlier LP-12s, as later versions have ventilated bearings that let air escape, so be careful that you don't allow the platter to drop into place with a thud!
Simon Spiers loved Howard Jones and nik kershaw and still do-I never realised the sondek was so simple inside-my last turntable was a rega planar 3-Im smitten with naim audio at the moment
10:53 : The mains are 50Hz but the bulb will glow at double that (if connected directly across the mains), so 100Hz. Great videos. A bit annoyed I've only just run into your channel - there's just too much stuff on youtube! I bet that LP12 was a great bargain. You ought to put it into good use - loads of second hand records out there, many in pristine condition - as long as you have the space that is! The Akito is their budget arm isn't it? If so, it might be worth going up one, if your collection warrants it. Either way, an LP12 can only increase in value with time.
Hi Simon my Sondek has no sound on the right channel,any ideas? I have switched the connects, even looked inside and reseated the 5-pin arm connector.For context I had it gone through by a great shop with new springs caps cart 10 years ago it has sat in the same spot so I,m guessing a bad cap?
I used to sell these way back when they were first made. Along with the almost identical Ariston. A more mass produced turntable that outsold either of the above 20:1 was the Thorens TD150/TD160 mostly with the SME arm. I seam to recall that the Linn originally had no electronics just a synchronous motor. It was a product we did not (as a retailer) like, because it took hours to set up (as you have found) then on switch on the motor was ticking. The speed of course was linked to the 50HZ mains. It used to make me laugh as people would check the speed with a strobe lit by a 50HZ lamp and because of this it ALWAYS show exactly the correct speed even if it might not be!! Still the customers liked it!! So now you have a crystal speed controlled motor, which should be much more stable than the 50HZ mains but you check the speed with a lamp lit by the 50HZ supply which could show the incorrect speed as you are looking at the mains frequency NOT the real speed. As a PS in spite of it's quite complex suspension, I always found it quite prone to feedback induced from your speakers. Some of my customers would place it on a concrete tile of some kind, that worked.
Hi, I remember the Ariston. Was that the RD40? I think this is indeed a good turntable but a bit over rated by many. It's a sod to set up and limited in its ability to play anything other than an Lp.
@@SoddingaboutSi , back in the late 1980s when I worked for Linn dealer here in the States, we also sold Ariston turntables, the RD-11 and the RD-12S if I remember the model numbers correctly. Not sure about the RD-40 but that number is also familiar.....there was a fancy Ariston model that looked rather like an Oracle turntable, but anyway the more conventional Linn-like models were quite good if set up properly. I used to change the original Ariston suspension springs and grommets to a Linn Nirvana spring/ grommet kit which worked much better in terms of ease of setting up and adjusting the suspension and getting it right, and got the deck to sound better as well.
@@goodun2974 I remember the Ariston decks. Kid at school had the RD 80. Thorens were big here too and we also sold Rega's and more exotic stuff like the Sota Sapphire that was full of lead shot! Pink triangle was another high end deck that I lusted after as a boy. Still do to this day!
Michael, the "ticking" motor was easily solved by twisting the plastic cup on the underside of the motor, which held a ball bearing and spring. Didn't a Linn rep teach you this during a set-up session? As for the need for a reference-quality 50 Hz flashing light to use in conjunction with a strobe disc when adjusting the speed, by the late 80s the Linn reps who held public setup clinics for Linn owners were using a new battery-powered, handheld, quartz-crystal-referenced device with an LED flashing at exactly 50 Hz (or 60 Hz here in the States).
You will always get that. It's either people who think the deck is over rated ( Which to a degree it is) or gelousy. There are many good decks out there that are as good as the Linn.
Looking at the " Linn " special black oil it immediately took me back to the early 1970s when I used to work on and service Strowger two motion and uniselectors. A special lubricant was used on rachets and pawls and it was called " Oil Dag". Basically, oil with graphite added.. I wonder?..... When it dried out it turned to gum and made the component fail.
My LP12 is being fixed at the Audiocounsel at the moment but I wish I'd seen your videos before I sent it as I didn't realise how simple they are underneath
By the way I’m certain Simon knows what he’s doing but the Linn vid says to let the inner platter sink down BY ITSELF Forcing it can damage the bearings
@@SoddingaboutSi Definitely do not use Linn black oil in this very early main bearing, there's a real risk that it will cause the white plastic bearing liner to swell and potentially sieze the bearing. Early bearings have a gold coloured housing, later bearings of which there have been several versions over the years all have a black housing, and are designed to work with Linn black oil.
@@SoddingaboutSi yes if you, used Linn black oil, clean it out of the housing completely, and obviously carefully remove any black oil from the spindle. The correct oil type can be checked on the LP12 set up guide published on the Cymbiosis website. They are highly regarded long time linn dealers based near Leicester. Hope that helps.
@@jerrypartington3650 , I worked for a Linn dealer in the late 80s; by that time the interior bearing-liner material was made of a super-hard polymer plastic called PEEK, which was actually grey if I remember correctly (earlier bearing linings were white), and the bearing was also ventilated so that trapped air could escape ---- Linn setup instructions cautioned against letting the inner platter drop hard into the bearing to avoid denting the bottom of the bearing well. There might have also been white bearings with the vent holes prior to the introduction of the gray PEEK bearings; but the original unventilated bearings would indeed require quite a bit of time before the platter spindle would displace the trapped air and settle down fully inside the bearing.
That’s an awesome deck Simon. I would love to own one of those. Hopefully you are going to treat us to some music from it. Nice work on the board. Cheers Graham
The dressing of the arm cable is incorrect it should be clamped in to the p clip and the cable should be straight and when you in cert the cable in to the arm it should not deflect the sub chassis this I learnt from a you tube vid set up from Linn sorry if you think I am being picky The blue preset on the board is for setting the correct voltage at the motor terminals details can be found by downloading the vallhalla circuit diagram my be you have all ready done this.?
Hi Simon, realy like what you done to this board. My linn valhalla needs some of your magic. My power supply board is not working properly. I'm sure it's a dry soldier contact. Could you repair my board?🤞
Don't use Linn black oil on a bearing that has a gold surround/white liner or else the Teflon in the liner will swell and bind the spindle - use the Linn gold oil on that bearing. All others can use black oil. Oh, and don't just stuff a paper towel down and leave lint behind that will etch the bearing surfaces over time - use a lint-free swab!
I did not know the Jocks manufacturerd anything, i just imagined Scotland to be hills and sheep but still, I will never buy made in Scotland as Made in the UK is much better, the Jock's should grow up and stop the hate of the UK and start putting made in the UK as without the English Tax Payer, Scotland would be a third world country if it were independent plus they will never be independent as England will never allow it 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
![Blox Fruits Dragon Rework Update [Full Stream]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EqDAp8udhm0/mqdefault.jpg)
From your description these turn tables and setup is much more complicated than I would have imagined. Very informative. Thanks Simon.
Cheers Chris. It's quite an art. And yes a tough of audiofoolery too.
Simon Spiers yes I was prepared to give you the benefit of the doubt this time. Don’t tell me your speakers are connected with cryogenically frozen cables.?
AllTheGearNoIdea oh no of course not. But they are biwired and I have no tone controls. I worked at a top of the range hifi shop when I left school. Wish I had stayed in that profession. I know you doubt a lot of it, but some is quite creditable. A friend and I did a blind test with two audio interconnect cables. We could clearly hear the difference between the two but which was correct,who knows.
@@SoddingaboutSi Cable interconnects the capacitance very,s between each cable so they all are going to so they are going different .
Indeed. Makes a noticeable difference to response.
I've owned one for 30yrs plus and can't find anything that does the job better at playing music. It's true they're an expensive upkeep if you continually upgrade them but that's all part of owning one which allows you to to spend as much as you wish on it taking you to whatever level you decide suites you best.
Hi, Just to say thanks for the video. Much info I have never heard of, that will be really useful for My restoration of My very early Ariston /Linn. I have just pulled it from storage after I haven't used it for some 20 odd Years. Although in My experience these type of things will just work and only need a bit of cleaning and tweaking. Oh just one thing that might help You is that when setting up the speed, You can fit the main platter on Upside down. So You can see where the pulley is riding. Best Wishes Jahmahrah
Hi Simon. Nice video and a common-sense approach. A couple of tips for future use; when checking the belt / pulley alignment the outer platter can be placed upside-down which settles the suspension to running trim and ensures the belt is running on the correct part of the inner platter. When adjusting cartridge overhang Linn used to recommend removing the tonearm from the deck before final tightening of the cartridge screws as the torques involved could potentially damage the arm bearings. Thirdly did you tighten the "P" clip that secures the tonearm cable against the plinth (it looks very loose around the cable at approx. 00.28?). This was always an important point of Linn black magic set-up procedure. The art is to dress the led to ensure the cable isn't affecting the suspension movement (alignment and bounce should be identical with cable disconnected at the tonearm) and doesn't foul the plinth or baseboard. Then, once happy with the dressing of the cable, the "P" clip should be tightened - really tight - against the cable. In effect the cable forms a fourth "spring" for the suspension and the clip "grounds" vibrations at the plinth rather than conducting them into the armboard via the cable. Hope this helps and thanks for a brilliant video
Hi Russell thank you for you detailed setup info. I can't remember if I did put that clip back on now? I used to pop into a shop called Unilet in new Malden where I helped out after school. One of the staff named Peter Ockley used to set the lp12's up for customers. He used to show me how to do it but that was 35 years ago and a lot has been forgotten in that time. Truth is the arm bearings needed looking at when I made this video,they seemed a bit notchy. I was going to take the deck to a local hifi shop to set up the suspension but never got around to it. Also I'm not entirely sure I am happy with the ortofon setup. Seems a touch harsh to me?
@@SoddingaboutSi I did not know the Jocks manufacturerd anything, i just imagined Scotland to be hills and sheep but still, I will never buy made in Scotland as Made in the UK is much better, the Jock's should grow up and stop the hate of the UK and start putting made in the UK as without the English Tax Payer, Scotland would be a third world country if it were independent plus they will never be independent as England will never allow it 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Scotland is in the UK, so your rant makes little sense.
As a mental exercise substitute "Israel" for Scotland and "Jew" for "Jock" in @johndunnburgess' incredibly racist rant and imagine how far he'd get.... ;0)
Good stuff Simon, I usually just throw Led Zep II on my Garrard and be done with it :) I remember one of my friends dads back in the 70s having some high end music system that threw a light onto strobe markings built into the turntable. There was a twisty knob to adjust the speed of the motor. He also had a unit with TWIN cassette decks.
My dad had a similar deck, the Garrard 401 with an SME tonearm and Shure cartridge.Quad electronics and Tannoy speakers, great stuff!
whereabouts did you download the strobe ? is it accurate are they all accurate ?
The null points don't indicate overhang the arc drawn on a piece of card will give you overhang or knowing what it is from the spindle.
Set the outer platter (preferably upside down) onto the inner platter, and the added weight will speed up the process of settling the platter spindle to the bottom of the bearing well. This is only necessary for earlier LP-12s, as later versions have ventilated bearings that let air escape, so be careful that you don't allow the platter to drop into place with a thud!
Songs from the big chair-an iconic 80s album-now I am a fan of yours simon
Along with Nic Kershaw and Howard Jones. Good days long gone.
Simon Spiers loved Howard Jones and nik kershaw and still do-I never realised the sondek was so simple inside-my last turntable was a rega planar 3-Im smitten with naim audio at the moment
A true Hifi buff then. RP3 Glass platter, well cool!
Simon Spiers that’s why I love your Hifi strip downs and repairs-compulsive viewing 😀😀
10:53 : The mains are 50Hz but the bulb will glow at double that (if connected directly across the mains), so 100Hz.
Great videos. A bit annoyed I've only just run into your channel - there's just too much stuff on youtube!
I bet that LP12 was a great bargain. You ought to put it into good use - loads of second hand records out there, many in pristine condition - as long as you have the space that is!
The Akito is their budget arm isn't it? If so, it might be worth going up one, if your collection warrants it. Either way, an LP12 can only increase in value with time.
Hi Simon my Sondek has no sound on the right channel,any ideas?
I have switched the connects, even looked inside and reseated the 5-pin arm connector.For context I had it gone through by a great shop with new springs caps cart 10 years ago it has sat in the same spot so I,m guessing a bad cap?
Do not immediately skip to 5:48. It might give you the wrong idea what the video is about.
Nice job Simon
I used to sell these way back when they were first made. Along with the almost identical Ariston. A more mass produced turntable that outsold either of the above 20:1 was the Thorens TD150/TD160 mostly with the SME arm. I seam to recall that the Linn originally had no electronics just a synchronous motor. It was a product we did not (as a retailer) like, because it took hours to set up (as you have found) then on switch on the motor was ticking. The speed of course was linked to the 50HZ mains. It used to make me laugh as people would check the speed with a strobe lit by a 50HZ lamp and because of this it ALWAYS show exactly the correct speed even if it might not be!! Still the customers liked it!!
So now you have a crystal speed controlled motor, which should be much more stable than the 50HZ mains but you check the speed with a lamp lit by the 50HZ supply which could show the incorrect speed as you are looking at the mains frequency NOT the real speed. As a PS in spite of it's quite complex suspension, I always found it quite prone to feedback induced from your speakers. Some of my customers would place it on a concrete tile of some kind, that worked.
Hi, I remember the Ariston. Was that the RD40? I think this is indeed a good turntable but a bit over rated by many. It's a sod to set up and limited in its ability to play anything other than an Lp.
I used to have a LP12, I think it's somewhat overated, I use a voyd now, much better all round.
@@SoddingaboutSi , back in the late 1980s when I worked for Linn dealer here in the States, we also sold Ariston turntables, the RD-11 and the RD-12S if I remember the model numbers correctly. Not sure about the RD-40 but that number is also familiar.....there was a fancy Ariston model that looked rather like an Oracle turntable, but anyway the more conventional Linn-like models were quite good if set up properly. I used to change the original Ariston suspension springs and grommets to a Linn Nirvana spring/ grommet kit which worked much better in terms of ease of setting up and adjusting the suspension and getting it right, and got the deck to sound better as well.
@@goodun2974 I remember the Ariston decks. Kid at school had the RD 80. Thorens were big here too and we also sold Rega's and more exotic stuff like the Sota Sapphire that was full of lead shot! Pink triangle was another high end deck that I lusted after as a boy. Still do to this day!
Michael, the "ticking" motor was easily solved by twisting the plastic cup on the underside of the motor, which held a ball bearing and spring. Didn't a Linn rep teach you this during a set-up session? As for the need for a reference-quality 50 Hz flashing light to use in conjunction with a strobe disc when adjusting the speed, by the late 80s the Linn reps who held public setup clinics for Linn owners were using a new battery-powered, handheld, quartz-crystal-referenced device with an LED flashing at exactly 50 Hz (or 60 Hz here in the States).
Nice to read that last comment most are from haters who’ve never owned one and seem to despise anyone who does
You will always get that. It's either people who think the deck is over rated ( Which to a degree it is) or gelousy. There are many good decks out there that are as good as the Linn.
Looking at the " Linn " special black oil it immediately took me back to the early 1970s when I used to work on and service Strowger two motion and uniselectors. A special lubricant was used on rachets and pawls and it was called " Oil Dag". Basically, oil with graphite added.. I wonder?..... When it dried out it turned to gum and made the component fail.
Yes I wondered that too. Black oil is usually Graphite oil, and regularly used in turntable bearings.
Maybe Linn use snake oil?
Well Simon the stuff we used turned caggy like the dried oil on an old bike chain! . Horrid stuff
@@SoddingaboutSi , the Linn black oil is molybdenum infused. No graphite. I have a 30 year old bottle of it that is still very much liquid.
@@max79444 , similar grease to what you describe was used on Dual turntables, among others. Horrid stuff!
My LP12 is being fixed at the Audiocounsel at the moment but I wish I'd seen your videos before I sent it as I didn't realise how simple they are underneath
By the way I’m certain Simon knows what he’s doing but the Linn vid says to let the inner platter sink down BY ITSELF Forcing it can damage the bearings
Yes let it sink under gravity.
@@SoddingaboutSi Definitely do not use Linn black oil in this very early main bearing, there's a real risk that it will cause the white plastic bearing liner to swell and potentially sieze the bearing. Early bearings have a gold coloured housing, later bearings of which there have been several versions over the years all have a black housing, and are designed to work with Linn black oil.
So I have put the wrong oil in it? It had black oil when I removed it.
@@SoddingaboutSi yes if you, used Linn black oil, clean it out of the housing completely, and obviously carefully remove any black oil from the spindle. The correct oil type can be checked on the LP12 set up guide published on the Cymbiosis website. They are highly regarded long time linn dealers based near Leicester. Hope that helps.
@@jerrypartington3650 , I worked for a Linn dealer in the late 80s; by that time the interior bearing-liner material was made of a super-hard polymer plastic called PEEK, which was actually grey if I remember correctly (earlier bearing linings were white), and the bearing was also ventilated so that trapped air could escape ---- Linn setup instructions cautioned against letting the inner platter drop hard into the bearing to avoid denting the bottom of the bearing well. There might have also been white bearings with the vent holes prior to the introduction of the gray PEEK bearings; but the original unventilated bearings would indeed require quite a bit of time before the platter spindle would displace the trapped air and settle down fully inside the bearing.
That’s an awesome deck Simon. I would love to own one of those. Hopefully you are going to treat us to some music from it. Nice work on the board. Cheers Graham
The dressing of the arm cable is incorrect it should be clamped in to the p clip and the cable should be straight and when you in cert the cable in to the arm it should not deflect the sub chassis this I learnt from a you tube vid set up from Linn sorry if you think I am being picky
The blue preset on the board is for setting the correct voltage at the motor terminals details can be found by downloading the vallhalla circuit diagram my be you have all ready done this.?
Hi Simon, realy like what you done to this board. My linn valhalla needs some of your magic. My power supply board is not working properly. I'm sure it's a dry soldier contact. Could you repair my board?🤞
Yes . If your sure the problem is you board and not motor Etc.
Okay Simon, I'll try and make sure the motor is good. Really like your work on the lp12
i think its Molybdenum disulphide and not graphite. Mo S2 is itself a lubricant
Don't use Linn black oil on a bearing that has a gold surround/white liner or else the Teflon in the liner will swell and bind the spindle - use the Linn gold oil on that bearing. All others can use black oil. Oh, and don't just stuff a paper towel down and leave lint behind that will etch the bearing surfaces over time - use a lint-free swab!
Great video but can’t find part one .
ruclips.net/video/6YHTXUm-5bE/видео.html
Thank you.
i can agree with you linn turntable bit over the top
I was told by a Linn dealer many years a go they use graphite oil for worn bearings .
It's not " graphite"....
the black oil is simply a light oil with mobilidium additives
Makes my Sansui SR222mk2 look like a toy!
Child’s play
I did not know the Jocks manufacturerd anything, i just imagined Scotland to be hills and sheep but still, I will never buy made in Scotland as Made in the UK is much better, the Jock's should grow up and stop the hate of the UK and start putting made in the UK as without the English Tax Payer, Scotland would be a third world country if it were independent plus they will never be independent as England will never allow it 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
A complete waste of time on a tetchy overrated deck, go and get a decent one
From a Prick who owns an Amstrad?