Awesome video, man, and hello from Guam! Felt the same problem with the jolting mid-ride and even high RPMs with my FP4. I couldn't find the problem for the life of me, haha. I checked the TPs, air filter, and everything. But the main problem was my battery! Popped a new one in, and it fixed everything. I also asked V&H for a better map that retrofits my build. Everything is smooth as can be.
I've read most of the comments and every one is saying they put the canned map in and it runs like crap. Me too. After running auto time for about thirty min I flashed the auto time map and got a huge increase in power. Off the line still sucked so I left the bike idleing and let out the clutch and did that several times I did another 25 min autotune then flashed that one and since then it has been awesome. I ride a 2010 dyna. Hope this helps. Make sure you run your bike at all rpms. My maps were almost solid green when I flashed.
Auto Tune will keep adjusting as you ride, to find the best point to lock your riding style info into the ECU. You should not Auto Tune full time, as the ECU will just keep getting new and different info. Set it, dump it, and get out of Auto Tune. For best mileage, find a 20-30 minute ride that keeps you fairly level, and not a lot of throttle input unless necessary. When you dump that info into the ECU, it will think that's how you always ride. The ECU will retain factory throttle input when you need power, so there will be no lag with the engine running lean for mileage. If you ride like normal hooligan style, AutoTune won't do much more than the factory ECU setting. In the sensor data screen, you can select "Eco" to see when the mileage program shuts off during acceleration. I put my phone in the Raw mount, to watch the sensor data as I ride. I have RPM in the main screen, with mileage, gear, Eco, and engine temperature in the corners. I also set my backfire for "nasty". So much fun cracking and banging to a stop :)
Nice man, thanks for all the info and insight +Messkit! Appreciate it. I'll be sure to give your recommendations a try over the weekend. Thanks again! +1 on decel pop, enjoyed mine being more rumbly for that ride back, haha
When I did my autotune, I tried to ride it in such a way that I got the revs into the spots to learn cells that I wasn't hitting, so I rode it more aggressively than normal, waited longer to shift, etc. Is that not what I should have done?
@@expert_fretwork It will see throttle inputs and calculate. But if you keep changing throttle level too often, it will just ignore those and wait for a steady input to calculate. Other than adjusting the ECU while on a dyno, the FuelPak won't "give" any more performance to the computer than what it already has programmed. Autotune smooths the ECU calculations for the engine dynamics. Like I said above, rapid or constant changes in throttle input and braking, are ignored by the FuelPak, and it lets the factory ECU settings take over. If you could hold at a steady higher throttle until the program locks that in, you would be hindering performance, since the ECU would now be waiting for higher revs before anything changes. Your mileage will suffer, and you will get no extra horses out of the engine.
The Fuelpak shuts off certain electronic items on the bike during the learn process. That causes the pop and hiccups. After you tune the bike. Remember to turn off the Autopak or it will not turn those functions back on and the bike will run like crap.
You can contact V&H and tell them your set-up. I know with Dynojet on my former Ultra Classic, that company recommended which "canned" map would offer the best result. Perhaps for the wife, a Honda Rebel, or smaller Shadow would be appropriate and still have the cruiser look. Ride safe!
Yeah V&H has all their recommended canned maps programmed into their app. You connect to the FP3 via Bluetooth and program it on your phone, it's pretty awesome. Running their recommended canned map for my setup and the mpg's is terrible, and have heard from many running Auto Tune helps that out a lot. Should be trying to tackle it again over the weekend!
so I have a fuel pack 3 too but I can't get it to work at all. I bought my bike used and it already had the fp3, air cleaner and exhaust installed. any suggestions on how to actually get the fp3 to work with my app?
hey mate did u sort auto tune I have a issue with my 2017. short shots and quite baffles. put there tune on and runs like shit. idles high when rolling and clutched. goes back to norm at idle, bit shitted with fp3
Auto tune never ended up working for me. Think it's more meant for long distance and not city riding (which is what I mainly do.) Checkout the final vid in this series / playlist, I switched back to a canned map. Canned map works great, but auto tuning wasn't working well for me at all, unfortunately.
I have a 2018 Sportster 48 with V&H slip-ons that haven't been installed yet. Would a Screaming Eagle tuner work with those slip-ons? I'm not a mechanical whiz I'd like to get those V&H slip-ons installed with little complications. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.
Hey Blockhead, I currently have a pair of short shots paired with an air intake that looks like the same one you have and a Fuelpack3. Ive found oil residue (small amount) inside the filter that I can see through the clear cover. Is that hose the fix? If so, where can I find it? Second and last question, I started using AutoTune and the bike keeps bogging at low RPMs. Did you experience this? And if so, how did you fix it? Greetings brotha, stay up!
blockhead, it's perfectly normal to experience rough running while in autotune. The bike is running lean, it's only when you apply, and finish that it will run sweet. I'm now getting 52mpg from my 2016 roadster. Fp3 is fantastic but of kit. Don't go for a dyno, and waste your dollars !
out of curiosity, how long did you run it on autotune to get your results? I did two half-hour sessions and flashed the tune after that. Each run had about 20-25 cells learned with a few others in yellow, but I'm wondering if I didn't give it enough of a chance. It seems to be running okay, but not any better than the canned map I loaded after I first changed my exhaust out. No noticeable improvement. I'm wondering if I did auto-tune for longer if it would end up with a better result.
@@expert_fretwork it was a while ago, but I'm sure I ran about 1 and a half tanks of petrol. Also try and do low revs/high revs, all the gears, country lanes, highways etc.... don't think all cells will ever be green but it does need I believe around 150 miles before a final flash
I have the exact same intake on mine and since I installed it, I get that exact same hiss/pop when I start the bike cold. Does it once or twice then it's fine once it warms up. I have not tuned it at all since installing the intake. If you figure out what is causing it and how to fix it let us know. I'd appreciate it!
Usually with a high flow intake, the fuel management system is recommended, hence why you might be getting the hiss / pop. Whenever I have the V&H FP3 recommended canned tune mapped, there's no pop / hiss, so that definitely solves it. Only thing is it causes the mpg to reduce drastically, so trying out their AutoTune feature to try and remedy that.
That's exactly what happens to mine, it starts up but dies after literally a second unless I open the throttle a little bit for about 20 seconds then it'll stay on and run/idle perfectly fine
had my fp3 for a year then it went haywire in the middle of a flash bike went into limp mode got it home got it to flash but it screwed up my tune and took it to shop they said the tuner went bad so i went with a power commander 5 and got a dyno running great and today i got my auto tune for it to fine tune it some more. I hope this works out for me now.
I think that second filter should be lower . I think the oil is just going to drip all over your nice filter. It's possible with the amount of oil your talking about your motor is not broken in yet. Just some random thoughts hope your tune works out.
I was worried about that as well, but mfg said it should be fine. I guess we'll see! If it does end up dripping oil, I'll just reroute to the bottom, easy enough. Actually looking at possibly building an oil catch can, info on that possibly incoming
My soft tail had this issue . If you didn't break the motor in it's just not going to stop until it broken in. Relocating that second air filter lower possibly by the swing arm will work better. That thick filter will act as a catch can but you need to change it every so often or drain it. Not sure on the quantity of oil you have spiting out but if it's a lot for you to consider a catch can you have a bigger issue and may need a mechanic to pull the heads and check out the piston crowns to see what going on. If there are clean your motor isn't broken in. If they have black burnt deposits on the crown heads it is broken in...then your onto some more cash. Maybe a ring change .
Hey man I just put on new pipes today and flashed a canned map and my bike is doing the same thing. Did you ever find a solution? Great channel by the way!
I have the Roadster not the 883 but it loves the fuel pac the only problem I had it did not like the air filter so went with Screaming Eagle OEM type works great and I hate Screaming Eagle Parts. It's a Harley can be very picky on any thing.
B/c of the canned tune from the V&H FP3 fuel management system. AutoTune should help loads from what I've heard, so trying to tackle that again this weekend.
BLOCKHEAD Really fun-- but just for around town. She won't be able to keep up with you or travel any serious distances. They're lightweight and easy to fling around. Great for beginners. If I still had it, I'd loan it to you for a weekend.
hey Mr. block with the autotune you gotta go through all sorts of heat ranges highway /stop and go. also different outside temperatures... to get a good tune your gonna have to keep tuning for 600 miles or so. also chexk your plugs... if anything use one of the can tunes .. V&H gots them dialed in pretty good. check out my lil burnout on my page 😊
hit me up on instagram " i_mericu_allday " some buds and i are going for the sugar loaf ride sat. buncha cool dudes no squids . its my fatbob (dyna) ,vrod , cbr600rr and my buddy on his ninja 650.
if one day you convert your bike to 1200 cc the fp 3 is not going to be good enough best thing to do dyno jet.you should get a better seat and hand grips
Planning on 1250, but that's at like the very end of the list. Better seat and hand grips both definitely on the list, hand grips up soon! (and drag bars)
That coughing in the turns... it sucks! I had mine completely stall out twice mid turn from a stop sign. I've noticed that after the dealer remapped mine, the idle has a lower exhaust note- more of a grumble instead of a snap... I'd love to see more of your tuning process, too! Here's something that might give you some insight- you might have seen it already... streetperformancetuner.harley-davidson.com/training/ENU/index.html
Thanks for the link, I'll be sure to look into that! I'll be sure to record more of the tuning process with the V&H FP3 this weekend / trying AutoTune again. Thanks again for the info!
I've been trying to run an auto tune on my 883 Iron, ran it for at least an hour.....but getting a spluttering on accelerating from a standing start....it's doing my head in
@@Weirdhourmoto it'll do that while you're still in autotune because the tuner intentionally disables certain functions for acceleration and deceleration. It's going to run more rough while you're in autotune than when you go back out of autotune. That's normal. You're not meant to leave autotune on all the time. You do it for a few rides for the tuner to learn how you ride the bike and then end the auto-tune, flash that new learned tune to the bike, and ride with that map.
Maybe try the Honda 500 rebel. They are light weight if she wants more power try the shadow 750 they are light weight to. Check the web sites they weight should be listed. Honda might be lighter then the Harley's if that's still to heavy and she not going on the highway look at a 250
yo blockhead when I run autotune I had same issue I found the bike needs to be at full running temp or it runs like shit so try autotune in middle of the ride
yo blockhead, check out the 500 harley street for miss blockhead them shit's is super sweet.! we just started getting wawa in jersey FUCKING LOVING IT!!!
Fellow Wawa lover, it's awesome! Yeah she tried the Street 500, actually the ones they provided to us in class, still a bit heavy for her, even w/ it being the smallest bike they make. Still on the hunt!
Awesome video, man, and hello from Guam! Felt the same problem with the jolting mid-ride and even high RPMs with my FP4. I couldn't find the problem for the life of me, haha. I checked the TPs, air filter, and everything. But the main problem was my battery! Popped a new one in, and it fixed everything. I also asked V&H for a better map that retrofits my build. Everything is smooth as can be.
I've read most of the comments and every one is saying they put the canned map in and it runs like crap. Me too. After running auto time for about thirty min I flashed the auto time map and got a huge increase in power. Off the line still sucked so I left the bike idleing and let out the clutch and did that several times I did another 25 min autotune then flashed that one and since then it has been awesome. I ride a 2010 dyna. Hope this helps. Make sure you run your bike at all rpms. My maps were almost solid green when I flashed.
Auto Tune will keep adjusting as you ride, to find the best point to lock your riding style info into the ECU. You should not Auto Tune full time, as the ECU will just keep getting new and different info. Set it, dump it, and get out of Auto Tune.
For best mileage, find a 20-30 minute ride that keeps you fairly level, and not a lot of throttle input unless necessary. When you dump that info into the ECU, it will think that's how you always ride. The ECU will retain factory throttle input when you need power, so there will be no lag with the engine running lean for mileage. If you ride like normal hooligan style, AutoTune won't do much more than the factory ECU setting.
In the sensor data screen, you can select "Eco" to see when the mileage program shuts off during acceleration. I put my phone in the Raw mount, to watch the sensor data as I ride. I have RPM in the main screen, with mileage, gear, Eco, and engine temperature in the corners.
I also set my backfire for "nasty". So much fun cracking and banging to a stop :)
Nice man, thanks for all the info and insight +Messkit! Appreciate it. I'll be sure to give your recommendations a try over the weekend. Thanks again!
+1 on decel pop, enjoyed mine being more rumbly for that ride back, haha
When I did my autotune, I tried to ride it in such a way that I got the revs into the spots to learn cells that I wasn't hitting, so I rode it more aggressively than normal, waited longer to shift, etc. Is that not what I should have done?
@@expert_fretwork It will see throttle inputs and calculate. But if you keep changing throttle level too often, it will just ignore those and wait for a steady input to calculate.
Other than adjusting the ECU while on a dyno, the FuelPak won't "give" any more performance to the computer than what it already has programmed. Autotune smooths the ECU calculations for the engine dynamics.
Like I said above, rapid or constant changes in throttle input and braking, are ignored by the FuelPak, and it lets the factory ECU settings take over. If you could hold at a steady higher throttle until the program locks that in, you would be hindering performance, since the ECU would now be waiting for higher revs before anything changes. Your mileage will suffer, and you will get no extra horses out of the engine.
Love the videos man. Makes me want an 883 really bad.
The Fuelpak shuts off certain electronic items on the bike during the learn process. That causes the pop and hiccups. After you tune the bike. Remember to turn off the Autopak or it will not turn those functions back on and the bike will run like crap.
You can contact V&H and tell them your set-up. I know with Dynojet on my former Ultra Classic, that company recommended which "canned" map would offer the best result. Perhaps for the wife, a Honda Rebel, or smaller Shadow would be appropriate and still have the cruiser look. Ride safe!
Yeah V&H has all their recommended canned maps programmed into their app. You connect to the FP3 via Bluetooth and program it on your phone, it's pretty awesome. Running their recommended canned map for my setup and the mpg's is terrible, and have heard from many running Auto Tune helps that out a lot. Should be trying to tackle it again over the weekend!
so I have a fuel pack 3 too but I can't get it to work at all. I bought my bike used and it already had the fp3, air cleaner and exhaust installed. any suggestions on how to actually get the fp3 to work with my app?
miss blockhead might be ok with one of those kawasaki vulcans with ergofit. super low reach, light, but still a great amount of power.
hey mate did u sort auto tune I have a issue with my 2017. short shots and quite baffles. put there tune on and runs like shit. idles high when rolling and clutched. goes back to norm at idle, bit shitted with fp3
Auto tune never ended up working for me. Think it's more meant for long distance and not city riding (which is what I mainly do.) Checkout the final vid in this series / playlist, I switched back to a canned map. Canned map works great, but auto tuning wasn't working well for me at all, unfortunately.
I have a 2018 Sportster 48 with V&H slip-ons that haven't been installed yet. Would a Screaming Eagle tuner work with those slip-ons? I'm not a mechanical whiz I'd like to get those V&H slip-ons installed with little complications. Any feedback would be appreciated, thanks.
Hey Blockhead, I currently have a pair of short shots paired with an air intake that looks like the same one you have and a Fuelpack3. Ive found oil residue (small amount) inside the filter that I can see through the clear cover. Is that hose the fix? If so, where can I find it?
Second and last question, I started using AutoTune and the bike keeps bogging at low RPMs. Did you experience this? And if so, how did you fix it?
Greetings brotha, stay up!
blockhead, it's perfectly normal to experience rough running while in autotune. The bike is running lean, it's only when you apply, and finish that it will run sweet. I'm now getting 52mpg from my 2016 roadster. Fp3 is fantastic but of kit. Don't go for a dyno, and waste your dollars !
Agreed.
Giving it another try this weekend when I can put some more miles into it. Thanks for sharing, appreciate the insight for sure! :)
BLOCKHEAD cool, let us know the results of autotune in another video if possible
out of curiosity, how long did you run it on autotune to get your results? I did two half-hour sessions and flashed the tune after that. Each run had about 20-25 cells learned with a few others in yellow, but I'm wondering if I didn't give it enough of a chance.
It seems to be running okay, but not any better than the canned map I loaded after I first changed my exhaust out. No noticeable improvement. I'm wondering if I did auto-tune for longer if it would end up with a better result.
@@expert_fretwork it was a while ago, but I'm sure I ran about 1 and a half tanks of petrol. Also try and do low revs/high revs, all the gears, country lanes, highways etc.... don't think all cells will ever be green but it does need I believe around 150 miles before a final flash
Dog: "blah, blah, blah... oh look a squirrel!"
Blickhead: "blah, blah, blah... oh look FOOD!"
hehehe.
I have the exact same intake on mine and since I installed it, I get that exact same hiss/pop when I start the bike cold. Does it once or twice then it's fine once it warms up. I have not tuned it at all since installing the intake. If you figure out what is causing it and how to fix it let us know. I'd appreciate it!
Usually with a high flow intake, the fuel management system is recommended, hence why you might be getting the hiss / pop. Whenever I have the V&H FP3 recommended canned tune mapped, there's no pop / hiss, so that definitely solves it. Only thing is it causes the mpg to reduce drastically, so trying out their AutoTune feature to try and remedy that.
Sounds like auto tune is a pain in arse, the canned map i put in my ‘14 1200c seems to work great.
Ive heard autotune runs rough for a bit until its complete, or near it
Will fp3 work with v&h throttle pack ? On 12 street glide
That's exactly what happens to mine, it starts up but dies after literally a second unless I open the throttle a little bit for about 20 seconds then it'll stay on and run/idle perfectly fine
Mine does this as wee
I get check engine lught on with autotune. 2017 iron 883 stock, high air intake and firebrand slips on
had my fp3 for a year then it went haywire in the middle of a flash bike went into limp mode got it home got it to flash but it screwed up my tune and took it to shop they said the tuner went bad so i went with a power commander 5 and got a dyno running great and today i got my auto tune for it to fine tune it some more. I hope this works out for me now.
I think that second filter should be lower . I think the oil is just going to drip all over your nice filter. It's possible with the amount of oil your talking about your motor is not broken in yet. Just some random thoughts hope your tune works out.
I was worried about that as well, but mfg said it should be fine. I guess we'll see! If it does end up dripping oil, I'll just reroute to the bottom, easy enough. Actually looking at possibly building an oil catch can, info on that possibly incoming
My soft tail had this issue . If you didn't break the motor in it's just not going to stop until it broken in. Relocating that second air filter lower possibly by the swing arm will work better. That thick filter will act as a catch can but you need to change it every so often or drain it. Not sure on the quantity of oil you have spiting out but if it's a lot for you to consider a catch can you have a bigger issue and may need a mechanic to pull the heads and check out the piston crowns to see what going on. If there are clean your motor isn't broken in. If they have black burnt deposits on the crown heads it is broken in...then your onto some more cash. Maybe a ring change .
How’d you secure the FP3?
Mine was the same, ran it on autotune for 2 tanks of gas and then applied the new map.
It was running as smoothly until it was applied
Hey man I just put on new pipes today and flashed a canned map and my bike is doing the same thing. Did you ever find a solution? Great channel by the way!
I have the Roadster not the 883 but it loves the fuel pac the only problem I had it did not like the air filter so went with Screaming Eagle OEM type works great and I hate Screaming Eagle Parts. It's a Harley can be very picky on any thing.
I have only exhaust on my bike and I get around 50.. why is yours so low??
B/c of the canned tune from the V&H FP3 fuel management system. AutoTune should help loads from what I've heard, so trying to tackle that again this weekend.
@blockhead does your check engine light stay on for the oxygen sensors
+James Bryant No CEL from O2 sensors here
Get her a Grom. I just sold mine all tricked out for $2500. Plenty of fun.
Been looking at Grom's, they look like tons of fun!
BLOCKHEAD
Really fun-- but just for around town. She won't be able to keep up with you or travel any serious distances. They're lightweight and easy to fling around. Great for beginners. If I still had it, I'd loan it to you for a weekend.
hey Mr. block with the autotune you gotta go through all sorts of heat ranges highway /stop and go. also different outside temperatures... to get a good tune your gonna have to keep tuning for 600 miles or so. also chexk your plugs...
if anything use one of the can tunes .. V&H gots them dialed in pretty good. check out my lil burnout on my page 😊
Maybe miss blockhead would enjoy something like a duke 390, light, not too tall and enough power to have fun.
You must live in near the equator. It's freezing in Tennessee
Chris H
at least you don't have a foot or more snow
Chris H I'm sweating by 8:00 in FL
dude mine did this.. automtune form a day or so then when u finish autotune, it will add an fuel enrichment upon startup and will fix ur prob.
I'll be sure to give this a try, thanks for the info!
God, I miss Wawa.
hit me up on instagram " i_mericu_allday " some buds and i are going for the sugar loaf ride sat. buncha cool dudes no squids . its my fatbob (dyna) ,vrod , cbr600rr and my buddy on his ninja 650.
if one day you convert your bike to 1200 cc the fp 3 is not going to be good enough best thing to do dyno jet.you should get a better seat and hand grips
Planning on 1250, but that's at like the very end of the list. Better seat and hand grips both definitely on the list, hand grips up soon! (and drag bars)
That coughing in the turns... it sucks! I had mine completely stall out twice mid turn from a stop sign. I've noticed that after the dealer remapped mine, the idle has a lower exhaust note- more of a grumble instead of a snap...
I'd love to see more of your tuning process, too!
Here's something that might give you some insight- you might have seen it already...
streetperformancetuner.harley-davidson.com/training/ENU/index.html
Thanks for the link, I'll be sure to look into that! I'll be sure to record more of the tuning process with the V&H FP3 this weekend / trying AutoTune again. Thanks again for the info!
I've been trying to run an auto tune on my 883 Iron, ran it for at least an hour.....but getting a spluttering on accelerating from a standing start....it's doing my head in
My autotune is doing the exact same thing on my 2019 1200 iron did u do anything different to fix?
Lol having the same issue just trying to put some miles on to see if it settles out. What did you guys ever discover?
@@xXsharkey77 bringing a dead post to life, did anyone resolve this issue?
@@Weirdhourmoto it'll do that while you're still in autotune because the tuner intentionally disables certain functions for acceleration and deceleration. It's going to run more rough while you're in autotune than when you go back out of autotune. That's normal.
You're not meant to leave autotune on all the time. You do it for a few rides for the tuner to learn how you ride the bike and then end the auto-tune, flash that new learned tune to the bike, and ride with that map.
Maybe try the Honda 500 rebel. They are light weight if she wants more power try the shadow 750 they are light weight to. Check the web sites they weight should be listed. Honda might be lighter then the Harley's if that's still to heavy and she not going on the highway look at a 250
Thanks for the recommendations Chris!
the car that looked like a raw steak 😂
yo blockhead when I run autotune I had same issue I found the bike needs to be at full running temp or it runs like shit so try autotune in middle of the ride
Thanks for posting your advice, I'll be sure to give this a try over the weekend!
yo blockhead, check out the 500 harley street for miss blockhead them shit's is super sweet.! we just started getting wawa in jersey FUCKING LOVING IT!!!
Fellow Wawa lover, it's awesome! Yeah she tried the Street 500, actually the ones they provided to us in class, still a bit heavy for her, even w/ it being the smallest bike they make. Still on the hunt!
BLOCKHEAD sounds like she's going to need something like a Honda rebel
this person's dad good call. maybe a used 250 yamaha virago or honda rebel. both great starters.
sounds like a loose wire
hey blockhead go you a good dyno tuning place you will notice a difference