Please note: make sure you use phosphate remover on your water and test for phosphate levels. Do not use MPS (non-chlorine shock). Do a purge upon first fill of your new tub or any time you drain your tub. Measure CY as it’s a chlorine stabilizer in granular chlorine (dichlor). Some is good and really helps…too much locks chlorine, so get it to 50ppm with normal chlorine granules and measure CY often to avoid overshooting that. You will gain probably 4.7ppm of CY with every teaspoon of dichlor granules, so 10 teaspoons is probably all it takes. Once CY is at 50ppm Then-switch to liquid bleach if you continue to supplement your salt sanitizer system after larger bather loads etc. if you after all this your system is humming along in cruise control you may not need to add additional chlorine. But it’s good to know that if you do, you want to add the right stuff. Ahhh-Some is probably the best purge product out there. If you do these things, I think the salt system on these tubs is superb. Unfortunately not all dealers seem to know this and the info isn’t always easy to come by. Ahh-some strips the mucosal layer from biofilms and super-chlorinating the water means the chlorine kills what was hiding underneath. No one will tell new owners this but biofilms in new tubs are unavoidable. In fact, in general…they are unavoidable, but they can be dealt with. I honestly believe people’s initial success rate with salt systems or even non-salt based tubs will jump up significantly just by purging, sanitizing and refilling at least once before the official first fill. It will save you much frustration and trouble. Salt systems are just systems that generate chlorine via salt electrolysis. Their benefit is they don’t create CY and this doesn’t result then in chlorine lock and a predictable empty and refill at 4 months like most tubs. Hot Spring has a good system here and they need dealers to help their customers like this but some dealers don’t know enough. So do those people who have a dealer who is probably great and knows a lot, this might be the extra 10% of information that gets you to where the promise of a salt system points to.
chlorination is produced by the unit and added to the water as part of the process, you add cheap salt for the chlorination (no handling chlorine) also, like maintaining any pool of water you want your body to be in, you may at times have to control ph, etc. with other chemicals such as muriatic acid and sodium bicarbonate. I owned a salt water pool for years, loved the water quality and never had algae problems.
This is nice 😊
Please note: make sure you use phosphate remover on your water and test for phosphate levels.
Do not use MPS (non-chlorine shock).
Do a purge upon first fill of your new tub or any time you drain your tub.
Measure CY as it’s a chlorine stabilizer in granular chlorine (dichlor). Some is good and really helps…too much locks chlorine, so get it to 50ppm with normal chlorine granules and measure CY often to avoid overshooting that. You will gain probably 4.7ppm of CY with every teaspoon of dichlor granules, so 10 teaspoons is probably all it takes. Once CY is at 50ppm Then-switch to liquid bleach if you continue to supplement your salt sanitizer system after larger bather loads etc. if you after all this your system is humming along in cruise control you may not need to add additional chlorine. But it’s good to know that if you do, you want to add the right stuff.
Ahhh-Some is probably the best purge product out there. If you do these things, I think the salt system on these tubs is superb. Unfortunately not all dealers seem to know this and the info isn’t always easy to come by. Ahh-some strips the mucosal layer from biofilms and super-chlorinating the water means the chlorine kills what was hiding underneath.
No one will tell new owners this but biofilms in new tubs are unavoidable. In fact, in general…they are unavoidable, but they can be dealt with. I honestly believe people’s initial success rate with salt systems or even non-salt based tubs will jump up significantly just by purging, sanitizing and refilling at least once before the official first fill. It will save you much frustration and trouble.
Salt systems are just systems that generate chlorine via salt electrolysis. Their benefit is they don’t create CY and this doesn’t result then in chlorine lock and a predictable empty and refill at 4 months like most tubs. Hot Spring has a good system here and they need dealers to help their customers like this but some dealers don’t know enough. So do those people who have a dealer who is probably great and knows a lot, this might be the extra 10% of information that gets you to where the promise of a salt system points to.
No mention about the chemicsls in it.
Does this pool need chlorine and other chemicals
chlorination is produced by the unit and added to the water as part of the process, you add cheap salt for the chlorination (no handling chlorine) also, like maintaining any pool of water you want your body to be in, you may at times have to control ph, etc. with other chemicals such as muriatic acid and sodium bicarbonate. I owned a salt water pool for years, loved the water quality and never had algae problems.
But how much chlorine is used?
@@shaunelisahattrick2497none of