Great video. I just got my 127 back together and running from a similar project. However, my project started because the grass screen on the flywheel came loose and was rubbing against the engine housing causing sparks. I ended up pulling the engine to make access easier. As it turned out, the screws that hold the grass shield to the pully had stripped out. I drilled and tapped new holes. Once that repair was done, I wanted to do something to the drive shaft and the coupler since I had it disassembled. The previous owner replaced the pin with bold that appeared to be a bit undersized. As you know this allowed for a bit of slop that enlarged the hole in the shaft and "wallered out" the coupler similar to yours. I didn't want to spend the money on a new shaft so I welded the hole to fill it in a drilled a new hole at 90 degrees to the factory one and installed a spring pin. We'll see how long it lasts. I did not do anything with the coupler. My project was complete by fabricating a new grill out of some stamped steel since it didn't have a grill when I received it. It looks pretty good now, however it has a little less yellow paint than yours. 😁 I am the third owner of this 1969 Cub 127. I received it from a friend whose father purchased it new. He was glad to see it being put to use again. Watching your video, I came to the realization that I do not have a fan on my drive shaft. I just went out the the barn to confirm. Looks like I have a new project. Being a narrow frame, I need to access the drive shaft from underneath. We'll see if I can get it out without having to move the engine again. Your video will certainly help. Thank you.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it! I thought about repairing my old parts, but they were pretty beaten and I was pretty much just over it and wanting to get the show back on the road. In the case of the coupler, I also don't mind supporting a small business that is making parts for these old things. Your 127 should have a steel fan and I'm not sure how easy those are to find. You really do want to get it on there though. You don't want to buy parts for the actual hydro unit (expensive and impossible to find) and they run pretty hot even with the fan. I'd recommend an oil and filter change too since your fluid may be pretty boiled.
Hey Max, thanks for the video. I always like the way you lay out your thought processes and why you do things the way you do. Great video. Thanks for posting.
It crossed my mind as I actually have printed fans before. The issue I would have is with the sustained high temperature exposure at the pump. My printer isn't setup well right now for the really high temp materials (have tried and failed). I'll get there eventually. A second issue I would have is the hours spent designing it. There are ways to use digital photography to create 3D scans of parts and I need to look into that as well.
@@TheBrokenLife But isn't that where the real value comes in printing a readily available $20 (I think you said they were 20 bucks) part? That's a complex shape to render in 3d and get right. You cannot buy that kind of knowledge.
@@tarstarkusz For sure. The issue isn't with the idea, it's with my present capability to execute the idea. My 3D printer is still considered a hobby grade 3D printer and there is only so much that can be done as regards material selection. I haven't explored all of those avenues yet, but I will in time. Mostly I just need to build an enclosure for it so I can have better control over the temperature so I can print higher temperature materials. I've designed fans before and they're not "too" bad. Nothing like exterior body panels that don't actually have a dimension. Meaning they're just a stylized curve created out of clay by some guy in a studio somewhere. Getting the real world parts that meet styling stuff in 3D is highly challenging. There's a reason Model Ts look like they do. Flat straight lines and hard corners FTW.
@@TheBrokenLife Isn't there plastics that you heat one time when you are making the item, but then they are chemically changed by the heat and no longer melt at the same temperature (thermoset plastic or Thermosetting polymer)? Do these plastics not work with a 3d printer? I thought it would be more complicated than it apparently is because they tend to follow those complex curves you mentioned like body panels. I guess not all of them do. I have absolutely zero experience of knowledge when it comes to 3d printing.
@@tarstarkusz Thermoplastic is what I have and thermoset is what you're talking about. There are 3D printers that run some of them, but not mine (as far as I know). What I've seen in that realm would be more like resins and there are printers for those too. About the highest temperature material I can go with mine would be polycarbonate/lexan, but I haven't been successful with it yet. I can give my prints more thermoset like properties by dunking them in something like CA glue and letting them cure out with it, but at heart they'll always be thermoplastic. So... Sort of a combination of approaches could get me closer. As regards designing surfaces... Well, kinda... Automotive exterior styling needs to come out to what is known as a Class A surface (which is a technical definition). Normally that would be established off of a group of guide curves of G3 quality (again, a thing with a complete technical definition). The point of all of this is such that you can't identify any unintended hard points of inflection on the completed surface and the curves are all smooth and flowing. Something like a consumer grade fan doesn't necessarily need to meet those requirements. You can have a central hub, another circle at some offset and angle to the hub (whatever it needs to be to perform), and simply spline (a curve of basically random definition between points, but not necessarily a G3 curve) between the two to create a curve for a loft (an "ugly" surface) which becomes the blade. The end result may look like a Class A surface, but it may not be one. Like everything, I'm sure somewhere there is a designer doing insanely high performance Class A fans, but it's not something I have much experience with. All of the fans I've had anything to do with are more utilitarian than ultra high performance. So, long and short is I'm confident I could design the fan for my tractor in maybe a day or two, but it would have still be a day or two I wouldn't be doing something else. It takes weeks to do exterior automotive stuff and have it come out to be manufacturable and perform. Something like a headlight housing is one of the most complicated things on the planet and takes months to get right. You are exactly correct in your earlier statement that it's a set of skills that are learned over time. There is a tipping point in most trades where it's more about what you know than what you can do. Class A surfacing, and when to apply it, is well onto the "knowing things" end of the scale. An example of this, if I were asked to consult for them, is the utter idiocy of Apple surfacing the outside of all of their phones. Pretty much no one on Earth except them is going to know or care about the difference, but they do it anyhow. I guess you can afford the luxury of the design expense when you have a product you can market at a luxury price. That's not how most of what I've been around works.
@@GeorgeMcIntyre-o9i Are you looking for tractors or are you looking for parts? I linked the parts in the video description. Tractors? Probably craigslist or Facebook marketplace.
When the pin for the engine coupler sheered off, and engine no longer turns driveshaft on my 1973 Cub Cadet model 109, I thought I was saved when I found this video ! 😢 I realized this video 📹 was very informative and clear, you did good there, but lucky you who got to buy a new engine coupler. Would've been great if you actually 🤷 provided a link on where you got yours on E-bay. You said you would try and provide one but instead just lied about that 😞 All I can hope for now is your stupid little stuffed bear to fall in the yard and have you run over it with your mower shredding it to bits ! Ha
That's a fantastic idea, but it would still need some air flow through the cooler. I wonder if a small electric fan would be enough to pull it over the line? The Cub charging system is not very robust, so it couldn't be very big. That's an interesting idea for sure!
@@TheBrokenLife I think the Delco Remy can put out over 30 amps at 14V so i would not worry about that. But you dont need a fan, consider typical 30$ oil cooler, for the number of fins is incredible, the effective surface area is at least 2 square feet and you can get just about any size configuration you want. You dont need an electric fan to outperform the stock system. But I agree a fan would keep that oil very cool indeed. Im going to do it because that plastic fan gets in the way every time i am adjusting any linkage or changing the oil filter.
@@paulg444 It's my understanding that that the factory S/G is more like 10A, but my understanding has been wrong before. I understand your point about surface area, but the surface area doesn't do any good without air flow and it's going to need some amount greater than none. It's possible that you could size, and position, a cooler that wouldn't require a fan, but I simply don't know. I'm also not sure what the pressure might be like in those lines. I know the hydro is capable of something like 600psi, but I don't know what the return pressure might be. An automotive oil cooler may not be up to the task. I'm seeing hydraulic coolers on Grainger, rated at like 250psi, for about $250. Ouch! I know some of the tractor pull guys use finned aluminum rear covers. I almost wonder if one of those would provide enough passive cooling in a regular lawn care application to make the mechanical fan obsolete? At least it would be out "in the wind" behind the tractor? It's an interesting project for sure! I'd be interested to see what you come up with.
If I weren't renting, I'd have stuffed it in the scrap metal barrel for sure. I'm really hoping my next move will be the last one. That will be when the hoard explodes. ;)
If anything, I thought I covered it in too much detail. Did you have a question about something specific? Honestly the 30 seconds around 15:15 is the only thing that was non-obvious.
Great video. I just got my 127 back together and running from a similar project. However, my project started because the grass screen on the flywheel came loose and was rubbing against the engine housing causing sparks. I ended up pulling the engine to make access easier. As it turned out, the screws that hold the grass shield to the pully had stripped out. I drilled and tapped new holes. Once that repair was done, I wanted to do something to the drive shaft and the coupler since I had it disassembled. The previous owner replaced the pin with bold that appeared to be a bit undersized. As you know this allowed for a bit of slop that enlarged the hole in the shaft and "wallered out" the coupler similar to yours. I didn't want to spend the money on a new shaft so I welded the hole to fill it in a drilled a new hole at 90 degrees to the factory one and installed a spring pin. We'll see how long it lasts. I did not do anything with the coupler. My project was complete by fabricating a new grill out of some stamped steel since it didn't have a grill when I received it. It looks pretty good now, however it has a little less yellow paint than yours. 😁
I am the third owner of this 1969 Cub 127. I received it from a friend whose father purchased it new. He was glad to see it being put to use again.
Watching your video, I came to the realization that I do not have a fan on my drive shaft. I just went out the the barn to confirm. Looks like I have a new project. Being a narrow frame, I need to access the drive shaft from underneath. We'll see if I can get it out without having to move the engine again. Your video will certainly help. Thank you.
Thanks! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
I thought about repairing my old parts, but they were pretty beaten and I was pretty much just over it and wanting to get the show back on the road. In the case of the coupler, I also don't mind supporting a small business that is making parts for these old things.
Your 127 should have a steel fan and I'm not sure how easy those are to find. You really do want to get it on there though. You don't want to buy parts for the actual hydro unit (expensive and impossible to find) and they run pretty hot even with the fan. I'd recommend an oil and filter change too since your fluid may be pretty boiled.
Hey Max, thanks for the video. I always like the way you lay out your thought processes and why you do things the way you do. Great video. Thanks for posting.
I've got a couple coming up that went horrible so there's lots of "thought processes". Haha
Nice job!
How did I know you'd like this one? haha
I want to see you print one of those fans dude. That would be awesome. Don't know if it would be strong enough though.
It crossed my mind as I actually have printed fans before. The issue I would have is with the sustained high temperature exposure at the pump. My printer isn't setup well right now for the really high temp materials (have tried and failed). I'll get there eventually.
A second issue I would have is the hours spent designing it. There are ways to use digital photography to create 3D scans of parts and I need to look into that as well.
@@TheBrokenLife But isn't that where the real value comes in printing a readily available $20 (I think you said they were 20 bucks) part? That's a complex shape to render in 3d and get right. You cannot buy that kind of knowledge.
@@tarstarkusz For sure. The issue isn't with the idea, it's with my present capability to execute the idea. My 3D printer is still considered a hobby grade 3D printer and there is only so much that can be done as regards material selection. I haven't explored all of those avenues yet, but I will in time. Mostly I just need to build an enclosure for it so I can have better control over the temperature so I can print higher temperature materials.
I've designed fans before and they're not "too" bad. Nothing like exterior body panels that don't actually have a dimension. Meaning they're just a stylized curve created out of clay by some guy in a studio somewhere. Getting the real world parts that meet styling stuff in 3D is highly challenging. There's a reason Model Ts look like they do. Flat straight lines and hard corners FTW.
@@TheBrokenLife Isn't there plastics that you heat one time when you are making the item, but then they are chemically changed by the heat and no longer melt at the same temperature (thermoset plastic or Thermosetting polymer)? Do these plastics not work with a 3d printer?
I thought it would be more complicated than it apparently is because they tend to follow those complex curves you mentioned like body panels. I guess not all of them do. I have absolutely zero experience of knowledge when it comes to 3d printing.
@@tarstarkusz Thermoplastic is what I have and thermoset is what you're talking about. There are 3D printers that run some of them, but not mine (as far as I know). What I've seen in that realm would be more like resins and there are printers for those too. About the highest temperature material I can go with mine would be polycarbonate/lexan, but I haven't been successful with it yet. I can give my prints more thermoset like properties by dunking them in something like CA glue and letting them cure out with it, but at heart they'll always be thermoplastic. So... Sort of a combination of approaches could get me closer.
As regards designing surfaces... Well, kinda... Automotive exterior styling needs to come out to what is known as a Class A surface (which is a technical definition). Normally that would be established off of a group of guide curves of G3 quality (again, a thing with a complete technical definition). The point of all of this is such that you can't identify any unintended hard points of inflection on the completed surface and the curves are all smooth and flowing. Something like a consumer grade fan doesn't necessarily need to meet those requirements. You can have a central hub, another circle at some offset and angle to the hub (whatever it needs to be to perform), and simply spline (a curve of basically random definition between points, but not necessarily a G3 curve) between the two to create a curve for a loft (an "ugly" surface) which becomes the blade. The end result may look like a Class A surface, but it may not be one. Like everything, I'm sure somewhere there is a designer doing insanely high performance Class A fans, but it's not something I have much experience with. All of the fans I've had anything to do with are more utilitarian than ultra high performance. So, long and short is I'm confident I could design the fan for my tractor in maybe a day or two, but it would have still be a day or two I wouldn't be doing something else. It takes weeks to do exterior automotive stuff and have it come out to be manufacturable and perform. Something like a headlight housing is one of the most complicated things on the planet and takes months to get right.
You are exactly correct in your earlier statement that it's a set of skills that are learned over time. There is a tipping point in most trades where it's more about what you know than what you can do. Class A surfacing, and when to apply it, is well onto the "knowing things" end of the scale. An example of this, if I were asked to consult for them, is the utter idiocy of Apple surfacing the outside of all of their phones. Pretty much no one on Earth except them is going to know or care about the difference, but they do it anyhow. I guess you can afford the luxury of the design expense when you have a product you can market at a luxury price. That's not how most of what I've been around works.
What color yellow paint do you use? Thanks
I have a whole video about Cub yellow. It should be in the playlist which is linked in the description.
Can you help me find parts like that for a 1250 Cub cadet international harvester
I believe the 1250 and the 149 should both use the same parts, so the links in the description should still be what you need. 👍
@@TheBrokenLife yeah where can I find I can't find no tractors anywhere
@@GeorgeMcIntyre-o9i Are you looking for tractors or are you looking for parts? I linked the parts in the video description. Tractors? Probably craigslist or Facebook marketplace.
When the pin for the engine coupler sheered off, and engine no longer turns driveshaft on my 1973 Cub Cadet model 109, I thought I was saved when I found this video ! 😢 I realized this video 📹 was very informative and clear, you did good there, but lucky you who got to buy a new engine coupler. Would've been great if you actually 🤷 provided a link on where you got yours on E-bay. You said you would try and provide one but instead just lied about that 😞 All I can hope for now is your stupid little stuffed bear to fall in the yard and have you run over it with your mower shredding it to bits ! Ha
You have a weird way of asking for help...
Good luck...
Whats the links to the parts? I cant find them
Links are in the video description. 👍
I have the same cub cadet, Im going to install a small hydraulic oil cooler/radiator and forget that silly fan.
That's a fantastic idea, but it would still need some air flow through the cooler. I wonder if a small electric fan would be enough to pull it over the line? The Cub charging system is not very robust, so it couldn't be very big.
That's an interesting idea for sure!
@@TheBrokenLife I think the Delco Remy can put out over 30 amps at 14V so i would not worry about that. But you dont need a fan, consider typical 30$ oil cooler, for the number of fins is incredible, the effective surface area is at least 2 square feet and you can get just about any size configuration you want.
You dont need an electric fan to outperform the stock system. But I agree a fan would keep that oil very cool indeed. Im going to do it because that plastic fan gets in the way every time i am adjusting any linkage or changing the oil filter.
@@paulg444 It's my understanding that that the factory S/G is more like 10A, but my understanding has been wrong before.
I understand your point about surface area, but the surface area doesn't do any good without air flow and it's going to need some amount greater than none. It's possible that you could size, and position, a cooler that wouldn't require a fan, but I simply don't know. I'm also not sure what the pressure might be like in those lines. I know the hydro is capable of something like 600psi, but I don't know what the return pressure might be. An automotive oil cooler may not be up to the task. I'm seeing hydraulic coolers on Grainger, rated at like 250psi, for about $250. Ouch!
I know some of the tractor pull guys use finned aluminum rear covers. I almost wonder if one of those would provide enough passive cooling in a regular lawn care application to make the mechanical fan obsolete? At least it would be out "in the wind" behind the tractor?
It's an interesting project for sure! I'd be interested to see what you come up with.
Throw it in the trash? That there is "free" steel.
If I weren't renting, I'd have stuffed it in the scrap metal barrel for sure. I'm really hoping my next move will be the last one. That will be when the hoard explodes. ;)
You need to show more detail , like show the removal and replacement. other wise it is not very helpful.
If anything, I thought I covered it in too much detail. Did you have a question about something specific? Honestly the 30 seconds around 15:15 is the only thing that was non-obvious.