This video series KEEPS getting better. Seriously appreciate the way you're answering questions, adding input and clarity to the whole process. Freakin awesome man - keep it up!
Also - THIS is the method I've used for notching tube (link below) accompanied with a 'PipeMaster' tube template tool. ruclips.net/video/mHBanmfn_CA/видео.html&ab_channel=TheFabricationSeries
Great stuff, man. I'm looking to build my own GT44/2005 GT replica, and suspension is my biggest grey area. Looking forward to hearing more about how you chose yours.
Great info, I have and use most of these tools the same way. Do get a HF throatless shear, I pretty much cut all my sheet metal with it up to 16 gauge steel, great control, straight when necessary but also easy to do most curves. Also for welding I use small but strong magnets a lot to keep pieces aligned and in place for the first couple of welds. For (weld) grinding special grinding discs and I would add to the list a dremel tool with cutoff and grinding discs, for the tight spaces.
I know this is more about not needing expensive tools, but a good set of high quality drill bits will save you so much grief! also dont burn them up, lower speeds and cutting oil are your friends. spend $100 or more if you plan to use them a lot, the cheap ones are good for ocasional use, but dull out really fast even if you're using them correctly. alternately, you could learn to sharpen them, which is tedious, but an extreamly usefull skill.
@@benbeames for me, getting a drill bit sharp again is still mostly luck, I definitely need more practice, love the videos by the way, really cool seeing how you went about things and the end products look great!
Hey Ben, love the story. Im building a McClaren Can-Am car much the same way! Hey if you hate that wind noise, I have a Diety Mic that came with a dead cat that seems to work pretty awesome. CHEERS!
Which Mclaren are you building? I LOVE Mclaren CAN-AM cars! I have a number of mics that deal with wind noise fine. But my simplest set-up doesn't. And multiple times I've gone outside when there was no wind and the second I start rolling 25 mph winds show up and don't leave. So now I just count on it and get out the wireless lapels. Thanks, though!
@@benbeames I'm just about to order some, so hopped you'd be saving me a few ££. I looked at diamond ones, but they all seem to be for glass or tiles. I guess HHS, slow speed & loads of lube is best bet.
This video series KEEPS getting better. Seriously appreciate the way you're answering questions, adding input and clarity to the whole process. Freakin awesome man - keep it up!
Also - THIS is the method I've used for notching tube (link below) accompanied with a 'PipeMaster' tube template tool.
ruclips.net/video/mHBanmfn_CA/видео.html&ab_channel=TheFabricationSeries
Yup! This is how I do it now.
The key to drilling, using a hole saw through metal is slow speed and cutting oil.
I really appreciate your videos. I have learned many things that help me with my build (McLaren M6B GT). Thanks for all the building tips.
Great stuff, man. I'm looking to build my own GT44/2005 GT replica, and suspension is my biggest grey area. Looking forward to hearing more about how you chose yours.
I'm working on it! Might be a few weeks though. I need some parts to show up for the demonstration.
@@benbeames well, your production value is great as well, so by all means. I Still need to finish rebuilding my engine anyways 😅.
Great info, I have and use most of these tools the same way. Do get a HF throatless shear, I pretty much cut all my sheet metal with it up to 16 gauge steel, great control, straight when necessary but also easy to do most curves. Also for welding I use small but strong magnets a lot to keep pieces aligned and in place for the first couple of welds. For (weld) grinding special grinding discs and I would add to the list a dremel tool with cutoff and grinding discs, for the tight spaces.
I know this is more about not needing expensive tools, but a good set of high quality drill bits will save you so much grief! also dont burn them up, lower speeds and cutting oil are your friends. spend $100 or more if you plan to use them a lot, the cheap ones are good for ocasional use, but dull out really fast even if you're using them correctly.
alternately, you could learn to sharpen them, which is tedious, but an extreamly usefull skill.
Definitely! There are certain sizes I always buy better drill bits for. And I should learn to sharpen bits.
@@benbeames for me, getting a drill bit sharp again is still mostly luck, I definitely need more practice, love the videos by the way, really cool seeing how you went about things and the end products look great!
Get a drill doctor. And buy a left hand chuck too. They work great for re sharpening dull bits.
Look at carbide hole saws they are not as deep as normal hole saws but I have had them last a lot of cuts.
That sounds good!
Hey Ben, love the story. Im building a McClaren Can-Am car much the same way! Hey if you hate that wind noise, I have a Diety Mic that came with a dead cat that seems to work pretty awesome. CHEERS!
Which Mclaren are you building? I LOVE Mclaren CAN-AM cars! I have a number of mics that deal with wind noise fine. But my simplest set-up doesn't. And multiple times I've gone outside when there was no wind and the second I start rolling 25 mph winds show up and don't leave. So now I just count on it and get out the wireless lapels. Thanks, though!
another awesome video!
Thanks for sharing the tips.
Did anyone recommend good hole saws for use with notcher?
Nope.
@@benbeames I'm just about to order some, so hopped you'd be saving me a few ££. I looked at diamond ones, but they all seem to be for glass or tiles. I guess HHS, slow speed & loads of lube is best bet.