Hello Bill and welcome from Hull in the East Riding of Yorkshire. Just watched your excellent video on the LNER tank locomotive that was sent to you from Australia. You have done an excellent job of getting her back on track literally. Your layout is great, well done. Scotland holds lots of happy memories for me as my parents took me to Scotland each year on holiday for a week. I am 68 now and miss my parents dearly but those memories of Scotland keep me happy and smiling. Scotland, like England lost many of its railways in the 1960s and that is so sad as now I am sure those lines would be well used today, especially when you look at the conjestion on our roads. Anyway Bill, sorry I was getting on my soap box, Lol. Congratulations on a great channel. You're doing a great job and thank you so much. 👍🚂
The lower connecting link beneath the crosshead on the nearside valve gear motion next the cylinder appears to be on the wrong side of the vertical link. I returned a new Bachmann Patriot years ago, because it was wrongly assembled, so I tend to notice this feature. An excellent channel that has allowed me to tackle some loco repairs. Thanks.
With the broken valve gear peg I would drill out the broken peg, and drill out the back of the plastic valve gear in and use a short length of brass tune and glue it.
-or use a piece of plastic rod instead of brass and perhaps have the gear fit onto that rather than the rod fit into the chassis? Easier to dismantle in future.
Yet another viewer from Australia here Bill. Thats another great job and such a nice looking loco. Just that little bit of damage wasnt too bad considering the trials of overseas postage. Ive had locos turn up here looking like jigsaw puzzles after being posted from UK. But she looks like a good runner now. 👍
Iv bought a fair bit from the UK as its cheaper to buy from there except for some of the prices for postage are outrageous from some of the ebay sellers. A lot of the sellets are saying they use the ebay global shipping service and they are not allowed to reduce the cost to us the buyer nor can they refund an overcharge in posatge yet we are the ones paying for it which i think is a tad dishonest as ebay are suppose to be an honour system and built on trusting the sellers and buyers yet when they are gettin 16% on fvf's and fvf's on posatge too , well we can see who the winners are in that deal , and its not us the consumers. The postage has been really quick too as the last 5 car virgin hst set i bought from the UK only took 6 days to get here from over 16,800 klms yet it takes 12 days to get from Sydney to Newcastle which you can actually walk quicker in 3 days hahaha. Iv been lucky too where the sellers have wrapped extremely well as tne last parcel i got looked like it nad been run over by a truck yet not one bit of damage to it what so ever. Cheers from John in Australia too haha.
What a beauty this V1/3 locomotive is. Most of the American steam locomotives of that era had the Henry Ford model T color chart, "You can have it in any color you want as long as it's black". Anyway, great video and repair.
Hi Bill, the drop link of the valve gear on the left side is too far back! Maybe You can fix this by taking the piston out of the cylinder and then put it back into the right place! Nice loco!
Nice job Bill. I have a couple of very old Bachmann USA products from 1975, a 2-8-0 and 0-6-0. Both were made in 1975 and are split chassis models but the odd thing is they use the same motor in all the split chassis models whether they are UK Bachmann or US Bachmann.
Nice work Bill. The layout is looking great. One thing about superglue is that it is great in tension but poor in shear. The bond may not last. Happy Modelling
Hello I can see that the walking gear at the front on the left side points backwards, but on the right side correctly faces forwards. I hope it's not my fault that you have to try again. By the way, thanks for the good videos. Best regards from Mogens V.
Thank you Bill for making this video. I have the same model and it had both sides of the motion bracket broken off. I tried the superglue trick, but it did not work for me. So I bought a non-runner off of eBay, but in BR Black. That too had one side broken off. I was searching on the internet and I did find a company that made Replica Valve Gear, but I forgot to save the details and now I cannot find them. So I will try again. Could you please tell me the number of the Axle Set you used. I have 2 J72s both are Bachmann one has the drive axle in the middle and the other one has the drive on the rear axle and of course the motors are different. I ordered 2 axle sets from Peter Spares and they are square hold, one of mine has round axles. I found a set in my spares which I made fit, but because the axles did not have the raises middle section it now looks like a loco with 6 punctures. I will win in the end, All the best, Martin. (Thailand)
Been loving the videos especially the lms locos as I'm an lms man. I watched your one on multimeter usage wonder if we could revisit that and show how to use one of the other models without the buzzer. And could we see in more detail how to check for amp draw and could this be done on a rolling road instead of a track please. Cheers
Very pleased to see a video on this model as I have one exactly the same, complete with broken link bracket on the same side! I wonder if it gets broken when people push them into their boxes? At least I know superglue will work, I had visions of drilling and tapping into the chassis using a long screw.
Thanks for another masterclass in keeping things going - those motion brackets seem to be a fragile point on all locos that have them. I've re[aired the damage with supergue on Bachmann and Mainline locos. BTW, can you really get a shock off a 9v battery?
Hi Bill, What a lovely gift. Now you just need the V2 Green Arrow tender engine to make the set. The broken valve gear. Could you not drill through the plastic into the broken stub and put a fine steel pin in for strength?.
I was thinking of that but it would be very fiddly. If I was fixing it for someone I would try that or if I can find a screw thin enough and long enough I may be able to remove the outer screw that holds the metal part on and run it right through into the chassis. Would have been much better if they had designed it that way. There may well be a wee follow up to this video.
Hi Bill as just let you know on your class V1 on left hand gears with those rod couplings for gears it is wrong way! as it needs change the other way around
I think that you need to take a close look at the Union link and combination lever on the side that you had to fix, as it is not in the right way round!
Hi there Bill ,, Do you mind telling us what brand of industrial super glue you use as i am just about to buy some for mainly plastic gluing. So if that motion bracket holds tight im keen to use it on my models too as the glue im using here at the moment is not really doing the job and falling to bits but only on some bits ive glued not all. Seems to be a nice little runner there too there mate job well done. Cheers from John in Australia.
I've been using an oily Tree Frog super glue for a while now, it has better adhesive quality than normal superglue, with the added benefit of not setting in the bottle
Check the back to back measurement of all the wheels. My Bachmann split chassis model have no issue with my Hornby points but if the back to back is too wide or too narrow you will have all sorts of problems.
Great repair as ever. That unobtainable bracket is crying out for a 3D printable model. If anyone has a broken one they would be willing to send I could create a model and STL file so that anyone could print a replacement.
Beautiful Machine and so Smooth - I’ve Managed to Avoid Bachmans so far, but as your benefactor Laurie may say, you made that repair look “Too Easy” Dude 🇦🇺🦘
Hello Bill and welcome from Hull in the East Riding of Yorkshire. Just watched your excellent video on the LNER tank locomotive that was sent to you from Australia. You have done an excellent job of getting her back on track literally. Your layout is great, well done. Scotland holds lots of happy memories for me as my parents took me to Scotland each year on holiday for a week. I am 68 now and miss my parents dearly but those memories of Scotland keep me happy and smiling. Scotland, like England lost many of its railways in the 1960s and that is so sad as now I am sure those lines would be well used today, especially when you look at the conjestion on our roads. Anyway Bill, sorry I was getting on my soap box, Lol. Congratulations on a great channel. You're doing a great job and thank you so much. 👍🚂
I find these old models quite attractive to run so if they can be salvaged they are worthwhile. A comparatively easy repair when done by the expert!
The lower connecting link beneath the crosshead on the nearside valve gear motion next the cylinder appears to be on the wrong side of the vertical link. I returned a new Bachmann Patriot years ago, because it was wrongly assembled, so I tend to notice this feature. An excellent channel that has allowed me to tackle some loco repairs. Thanks.
Excellent repair as usual . Celebrations down the Gnomes Legs pub tonight !
With the broken valve gear peg I would drill out the broken peg, and drill out the back of the plastic valve gear in and use a short length of brass tune and glue it.
-or use a piece of plastic rod instead of brass and perhaps have the gear fit onto that rather than the rod fit into the chassis? Easier to dismantle in future.
I used a bit of plastic tubing and superglue. Both my v1/v3s had the same problem.
Well done Bill, great job saving the Loco. Beautiful🚂👍👍👍⭐🌟Regards Elizabeth
What a lovely smooth runner. Well the effort of repairing.
That's a lovely model loco.
Yet another viewer from Australia here Bill.
Thats another great job and such a nice looking loco.
Just that little bit of damage wasnt too bad considering the trials of overseas postage.
Ive had locos turn up here looking like jigsaw puzzles after being posted from UK. But she looks like a good runner now. 👍
Iv bought a fair bit from the UK as its cheaper to buy from there except for some of the prices for postage are outrageous from some of the ebay sellers.
A lot of the sellets are saying they use the ebay global shipping service and they are not allowed to reduce the cost to us the buyer nor can they refund an overcharge in posatge yet we are the ones paying for it which i think is
a tad dishonest as ebay are suppose to be an honour system and built on trusting the sellers and buyers yet when they are gettin 16% on fvf's and fvf's on posatge too , well we can see who the winners are in that deal , and its not us the consumers.
The postage has been really quick too as the last 5 car virgin hst set i bought from the UK only took 6 days to get here from over 16,800 klms yet it takes 12 days to get from Sydney to Newcastle which you can actually walk quicker in 3 days hahaha. Iv been lucky too where the sellers have wrapped extremely well as tne last parcel i got looked like it nad been run over by a truck yet not one bit of damage to it what so ever.
Cheers from John in Australia too haha.
What a beauty this V1/3 locomotive is. Most of the American steam locomotives of that era had the Henry Ford model T color chart, "You can have it in any color you want as long as it's black". Anyway, great video and repair.
I'm from Melbourne AUS and thoroughly enjoy your channel, too. Great work?
Awesome model and repair bill you really inspired me to buy bad locos to repair as the satisfaction must feel amazing
Hi Bill, the drop link of the valve gear on the left side is too far back! Maybe You can fix this by taking the piston out of the cylinder and then put it back into the right place! Nice loco!
Another great repair job Bill love ur repair videos
Bill, a great looking locomotive and another interesting repair video.
I used to have one of these in this exact livery, and it was a fantastic engine to own! Makes me want to get another one!
That is one lovely looking locomotive, won't look out of place anywhere on the layout.
Great video bill 👍 the loco runs very well . Keep up the great work 👍
Nice job Bill. I have a couple of very old Bachmann USA products from 1975, a 2-8-0 and 0-6-0. Both were made in 1975 and are split chassis models but the odd thing is they use the same motor in all the split chassis models whether they are UK Bachmann or US Bachmann.
Another great repair Bill. I'm pretty sure this model is a V3 as it has an extended Bunker.
All the best...Steve
Yet again another Excellent Video oobill,👍👍
Nice work Bill.
The layout is looking great.
One thing about superglue is that it is great in tension but poor in shear. The bond may not last.
Happy Modelling
I like the valve gear fix. Have done similar but I added some shrink wrap to give extra strength.
Great job again Bill, I'm finding sourcing spares for the split chassis is getting ever increasingly difficult.
Great repair and nice donation 👍
Hello
I can see that the walking gear at the front on the left side points backwards, but on the right side correctly faces forwards. I hope it's not my fault that you have to try again.
By the way, thanks for the good videos.
Best regards from
Mogens V.
Thank you Bill for making this video. I have the same model and it had both sides of the motion bracket broken off. I tried the superglue trick, but it did not work for me. So I bought a non-runner off of eBay, but in BR Black. That too had one side broken off. I was searching on the internet and I did find a company that made Replica Valve Gear, but I forgot to save the details and now I cannot find them. So I will try again. Could you please tell me the number of the Axle Set you used. I have 2 J72s both are Bachmann one has the drive axle in the middle and the other one has the drive on the rear axle and of course the motors are different. I ordered 2 axle sets from Peter Spares and they are square hold, one of mine has round axles. I found a set in my spares which I made fit, but because the axles did not have the raises middle section it now looks like a loco with 6 punctures. I will win in the end, All the best, Martin. (Thailand)
Been loving the videos especially the lms locos as I'm an lms man. I watched your one on multimeter usage wonder if we could revisit that and show how to use one of the other models without the buzzer. And could we see in more detail how to check for amp draw and could this be done on a rolling road instead of a track please. Cheers
Very pleased to see a video on this model as I have one exactly the same, complete with broken link bracket on the same side! I wonder if it gets broken when people push them into their boxes? At least I know superglue will work, I had visions of drilling and tapping into the chassis using a long screw.
I would consider super glue or epoxy a temporary fix. Stay tuned for a possible more permanent fix in the near future.
Cars would look awesome on a slaletric track moving also
Nice train
Bill, check the left hand side "drop link"; it looks back-to-front.
Yup. I spotted it while editing. Didn't fancy re-shooting all the running so just left it. It's been sorted since though.
Thanks for another masterclass in keeping things going - those motion brackets seem to be a fragile point on all locos that have them. I've re[aired the damage with supergue on Bachmann and Mainline locos.
BTW, can you really get a shock off a 9v battery?
Hi Bill, What a lovely gift. Now you just need the V2 Green Arrow tender engine to make the set. The broken valve gear. Could you not drill through the plastic into the broken stub and put a fine steel pin in for strength?.
I was thinking of that but it would be very fiddly. If I was fixing it for someone I would try that or if I can find a screw thin enough and long enough I may be able to remove the outer screw that holds the metal part on and run it right through into the chassis. Would have been much better if they had designed it that way. There may well be a wee follow up to this video.
Hi Bill. I will look forwards to that video if you do it.
Really enjoyed this video - which oil do you put in the needle oil applicator for the con rods?
Hi Bill as just let you know on your class V1 on left hand gears with those rod couplings for gears it is wrong way! as it needs change the other way around
I think that you need to take a close look at the Union link and combination lever on the side that you had to fix, as it is not in the right way round!
Yup. I spotted it while editing. Didn't fancy re-shooting all the running so just left it. It's been sorted since though
Hi there Bill ,, Do you mind telling us what brand of industrial super glue you use as i am just about to buy some for mainly plastic gluing. So if that motion bracket holds tight im keen to use it on my models too as the glue im using here at the moment is not really doing the job and falling to bits but only on some bits ive glued not all.
Seems to be a nice little runner there too there mate job well done.
Cheers from John in Australia.
I've been using an oily Tree Frog super glue for a while now, it has better adhesive quality than normal superglue, with the added benefit of not setting in the bottle
Another fine repair
Why not bachmann spares website you may find spares and parts for V1/3 tank engine
Not this particular model. Their site specifies that the valve gear parts that are available are not suitable for 31-600 which is this model number.
I've got this v1 it doesn't run well on hornby points
Check the back to back measurement of all the wheels. My Bachmann split chassis model have no issue with my Hornby points but if the back to back is too wide or too narrow you will have all sorts of problems.
Great repair as ever. That unobtainable bracket is crying out for a 3D printable model. If anyone has a broken one they would be willing to send I could create a model and STL file so that anyone could print a replacement.
Plastic running gear is shite.
Beautiful Machine and so Smooth - I’ve Managed to Avoid Bachmans so far, but as your benefactor Laurie may say, you made that repair look “Too Easy” Dude 🇦🇺🦘