You have a good setup with the cordless ratchet and impact gun. I'd like to suggest a few things that would help make things even easier. Since you mention a breaker bar it would also work better to remove the caliper bolts. Where you placed the caliper after you removed it works but if you accidently jostle it you could end up needing to replace the brake line. Tie it up to the strut and make sure the brake line isn't kinked. To get the rotor off the hub the hammer usually works but you can also use a bolt in one or both of those small holes between the wheel studs if hammering doesn't work. I "think" it takes a 10 mm bolt and apparently the ones that hold the manifold heat shield on will fit???? After removing rotor, clean off the hub surface a bit with a wire brush and them apply a small amount of nickel anti-seize on the surface between the studs ( no hammering the rotor needed the next time or if the wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced down the line ). I would suggest that someone doing this job watch a video on cleaning and lubing the Caliper Slide Pins and to use the right type of lube ( brake grease will slowly damage the rubber boots on the pins causing them to seize and the brake pads to wear out too fast ). A lot of DIYers and even licensed mechanics don't like to use torque wrenches but it's the best way to tighten bolts to the correct torque so bolts don't loosen over time and are easier to remove next time. You brake piston compressor is awesome ( I've used an old brake pad and a C Clamp. Make sure after you compress the piston that you check that the rubber seal around the brake piston is sitting flush with the top of the piston because they commonly will bulge in some areas which could lead to needing to replace the whole caliper because water will get into the piston bore and cause rust and then failure. Not sur how you didn't get grease from your finger onto the brake pad and the disc. Good on you for mentioning to pump the brake pedal until it builds up some pressure (watched a guy back up after a brake job and hit the brakes, get nothing and smash into his wife's Camaro ). Oh one ;last thing.... get in the car and turn the steering wheel fully so the brake on the side you're working on is in a position for easier access.
@@Sushilover01 shoot sorry I just seen this It was super easy!! I bought a tool to compress the calipers called a heavy duty brake pad spreader From capri tools off of Amazon Plus crc brake and caliper grease And 1/4” heavy duty s hooks
Hey you forgot to put on the springs and as for the tighting up the screws I see you got tools like the cordless ratchet but don't own a torque wrench to torque them 77ft lb. For the caliper bracket and 25ft lb for the caliper. Hopefully in the next 5 years pray that you don't have a hard time removing those bolts.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I didn’t realize I didn’t put the spring back on till I finish and noticed the spring on the ground. I did put it back just didn’t record it. I used a wrench to tighten them up. Yeah i know about the torque. The purpose of that is to make sure they’re tight. I go beyond that just to make sure they’re tight. Brakes are really important and can actually cause death so I’d rather overtight them. I’ve been working on cars since i was a teenager. As long as you use a wrench and a hammer you can take it off. I love working on cars and the challenges it brings. I do the videos to help people out so they can do their own maintenance. I always try my best and I’m always learning new things in this line of work
@@chuythemobilemechanic The purpose of a torque spec is to make sure it is tightened correctly, not just tight enough. Overtightened nuts and bolts can lead to distortion, stretched bolts (which weakens the bolt), or stripped threads. A DIY does not need a high end torque wrench, but they should invest in one if they are planning to do their own work.
Good video. Hey I got a question. I’m changing brakes and rotors all around. Do I pump the brakes after doing the fronts and the back or do I do the pumping after I do the front. Then pump again after doing the backs? Or can I just pump it all after doing all 4 changes?
Good job , but be a bit mindful of the grease getting on the pads, change gloves when applying grease, also make sure the boot is properly seated when reinstalling the caliper slide pins
Oh man I winced when I saw you grab the friction surface of the pad with your greasy hands! We want to lube the brakes, not lube the brakes! Otherwise, a solid job!
Nice torque wrench. 3 taps of the hammer = 55 ft lbs.
Great video..... I alway add anti seize on the inside of the rotor hub. Also change your gloves and don't get any grease on the pads.
You have a good setup with the cordless ratchet and impact gun. I'd like to suggest a few things that would help make things even easier. Since you mention a breaker bar it would also work better to remove the caliper bolts. Where you placed the caliper after you removed it works but if you accidently jostle it you could end up needing to replace the brake line. Tie it up to the strut and make sure the brake line isn't kinked. To get the rotor off the hub the hammer usually works but you can also use a bolt in one or both of those small holes between the wheel studs if hammering doesn't work. I "think" it takes a 10 mm bolt and apparently the ones that hold the manifold heat shield on will fit???? After removing rotor, clean off the hub surface a bit with a wire brush and them apply a small amount of nickel anti-seize on the surface between the studs ( no hammering the rotor needed the next time or if the wheel hub bearing needs to be replaced down the line ). I would suggest that someone doing this job watch a video on cleaning and lubing the Caliper Slide Pins and to use the right type of lube ( brake grease will slowly damage the rubber boots on the pins causing them to seize and the brake pads to wear out too fast ). A lot of DIYers and even licensed mechanics don't like to use torque wrenches but it's the best way to tighten bolts to the correct torque so bolts don't loosen over time and are easier to remove next time. You brake piston compressor is awesome ( I've used an old brake pad and a C Clamp. Make sure after you compress the piston that you check that the rubber seal around the brake piston is sitting flush with the top of the piston because they commonly will bulge in some areas which could lead to needing to replace the whole caliper because water will get into the piston bore and cause rust and then failure. Not sur how you didn't get grease from your finger onto the brake pad and the disc. Good on you for mentioning to pump the brake pedal until it builds up some pressure (watched a guy back up after a brake job and hit the brakes, get nothing and smash into his wife's Camaro ). Oh one ;last thing.... get in the car and turn the steering wheel fully so the brake on the side you're working on is in a position for easier access.
I think those guy is example of typical mechanic 😢 - great suggestions
2 threads on the rotor are for you to use screw to push the rotor out. No need to hammer.
Great video. Simple and straightforward direction with clear camera work👍🏼
Thank you for this video! I am going to give this a shot today on my 2020. Straight and to the point I appreciate that!
Great work. This will be my reference when I get mine done. Awesome!
Thanks Chuy… you made it real simple. Gonna try out next weekend…
Subscribed from Sydney, Australia.
Hope everything worked out.
Thanks for subscribing
Thank you man. Love the way you are explaining. Fantastic video.
What happened to torquing everything back to factory specs.
Killer video bro!! I’ll be doing this on my wife’s 2019 this weekend!
How did it go? I’m gonna try doing mine
does the 2019 requires to set up maintenance service on the dashboard? 🧐
@@marcosvargas8794 yeah it does not for the brakes though i don’t think.
Rotors and pads were super easy to do
@@Sushilover01 shoot sorry I just seen this
It was super easy!!
I bought a tool to compress the calipers called a heavy duty brake pad spreader
From capri tools off of Amazon
Plus crc brake and caliper grease
And 1/4” heavy duty s hooks
Aren't they supposed to have springs that keep them from rubbing
Yes you’re right. I noticed the spring after i put the tire back on so i had to take everything off again and put them back on.
Great job, very helpful !
ForANewHeart
Chuy=Jesus, like me 😂
Hey you forgot to put on the springs and as for the tighting up the screws I see you got tools like the cordless ratchet but don't own a torque wrench to torque them 77ft lb. For the caliper bracket and 25ft lb for the caliper. Hopefully in the next 5 years pray that you don't have a hard time removing those bolts.
Thanks for the feedback. Yeah I didn’t realize I didn’t put the spring back on till I finish and noticed the spring on the ground. I did put it back just didn’t record it.
I used a wrench to tighten them up. Yeah i know about the torque. The purpose of that is to make sure they’re tight. I go beyond that just to make sure they’re tight. Brakes are really important and can actually cause death so I’d rather overtight them. I’ve been working on cars since i was a teenager. As long as you use a wrench and a hammer you can take it off.
I love working on cars and the challenges it brings. I do the videos to help people out so they can do their own maintenance. I always try my best and I’m always learning new things in this line of work
@@chuythemobilemechanic No you didnt put it back on! you did what the rest of us do: "Fuck it, next time.."
@@chuythemobilemechanic The purpose of a torque spec is to make sure it is tightened correctly, not just tight enough. Overtightened nuts and bolts can lead to distortion, stretched bolts (which weakens the bolt), or stripped threads. A DIY does not need a high end torque wrench, but they should invest in one if they are planning to do their own work.
Thanks man!
Good video. Hey I got a question. I’m changing brakes and rotors all around. Do I pump the brakes after doing the fronts and the back or do I do the pumping after I do the front. Then pump again after doing the backs? Or can I just pump it all after doing all 4 changes?
wait until you finish all 4
Thanks for the video. you forgot to install the brake pads spring....
Helpful video thanks a lot!
Thanks chuy very helpful video
Wow nicely done i like and subscribe. I have a question, my toyota highlander shaking when I break is the routers that cause this?
You need alignment and tire Balancing.
Pads are nicely greased
Thank you so much
Thank you
My highlander manual says no grease on the abutment clips. Hard ware as you call it. Also if you use shims it's alot cleaner to install.
Great video,Thanks!
Solo así se purga, pisando el freno sin tener que abrir la válvula?
Hi there you did a great job, thanks for showing us, ignore people taking sh":&$-t
There’s always critics lol
Good job , but be a bit mindful of the grease getting on the pads, change gloves when applying grease, also make sure the boot is properly seated when reinstalling the caliper slide pins
you forgot the retaining clip for the brake pads.
i think you forgot the v spring 😊
Dude, your changing the rotor, wack it on the outside edge, why flirt with disaster and take chances hitting a stud with that sledge hammer...
You Forgot The Pins
In The Top Of The Pads.
Amén.
Oh man I winced when I saw you grab the friction surface of the pad with your greasy hands! We want to lube the brakes, not lube the brakes! Otherwise, a solid job!
Not a solid job, I hope who s video and followed his instructions are still alive
@@Adventure338 why