I've watched this twice and will certainly watch it again and again. This is a VERY important soil video. I'm so grateful that you have shared this with the world.
If I was local to Living Web Farms, I would LIVE at their facility. I have learned soooo much from their content, and I get incredibly inspired by it to make my little parcel on this earth a better, more alive place.
Awesome! Love how the no till soil is left in the beaker the whole talk, and it still is a perfect clump. Such a great way to make a point! Thanks for the videos.
Most organic matter is in the top 2 inches. At 14:10 For every 1% organic matter, I can hold 17,000 to 21,000 gallons more of water per acre. Plants leak 80% of their carbon but weeds only leak 20%. In terms of size of particles the largest is sand then silt and then clay.
Great video! - Really learning a lot from you, Elaine Ingham and Mr Lowenstein about soil microbiology! -- When is Part 2 going up on RUclips? - Thanks
Hi there i have a question if thats ok . we recently purchased a property and before finding out about no till decided to till it over (i know dumb huh :/ ) we only tilled the once but this has unleashed dormant bindweed seeds that were hiding away . see this is where it gets tricky our soil type is sand (not the sandy loam) just sand with temperatures as low as -22 f in winter and as high as 85 Fahrenheit in summer with the last frost around May 15th and very little rainfall . This is going to make you scratch your head :D we basically need a cover crop mix that is winter hardy,drought resistant & sand loving (mission impossible) . buckwheat and sorghum is the go to here for sandy soil but the minute there is a frost its bye bye or it just shrivels up due to summer heat. this land was extensively tilled for many years and is now just covered in moss . any help would be much appreciated. thank you Gabby
What if one wanted to re plant 10 ac of walnuts with something else (35+ yo) on black walnut rootstock? As an individual who practices no till I’m kind of at a loss of to pull and rip or pull and leave the roots in to break down? I know they release toxins and of course there are (bad) nematodes. Crop hasn’t been harvested in 3 or 4 years.
Im always a little puzzled in the dig vs no dig discussion. We are taught that digging disturbs the soil and burns out the organic matter. And at the same time we have biointensive gardeners who not just dig but double-dig their beds and get a increase in organic matter content.
I think you may have the wrong idea of what bio-intensive is. In biointensive method you don't use chemical fertilizers, nor herbicides of pesticides. It only depends on on-site made compost from compost crops making up 60% of the growing space.
Michał Malinowski The key features behind double digging that help it to grow soil mass is the fact that: you are physically adding compost to the permanent raised bed, adding mass; you are not mixing the layers of the soil so the microbiome can recuperate more quickly and the soil structure is not compacted, crushed or tilled into a powder allowing more water to be retained, also adding mass; if you follow the GROW Biointensive method then 60% of your garden space is dedicated to growing green manure or cover crops. This green manure uses the most basic quality of plants, the fact that they take soil nutrients and air and turn them into physical organic structures (they grow) to create material to add into the system. This is a very effective way of building soil structure, retaining moisture, reducing compaction, and producing material for compost piles. Biointensive methods only advocate double digging only for the first few years of getting the beds established, after which no tilling or digging should be required. Using a broadfork is also very effective for deep tilling while still maintaining soil structure and introducing oxygen into the deeper layers of the soil. Deeper aeration allows for deeper and more robust root systems, meaning more dead roots after each season, meaning more food and fuel for the soil biome. There is no impasse between these two methods: no-till and biointensive (double digging); both methods use cover crops and focus on building soil structure, only one method is geared more toward deep cultivation for vegetable, root, grain and fruiting crops. This video is primarily addressing people who are managing large pieces of land used to graze animals, fed wildlife and/or grow hay. Some people till their hay fields and that is a destructive practice. Planting cover crops is more effective at creating soil structure, higher fertility and high quality, high yield crops than tilling, fertilizing, and spraying for pests. It is also particularly effective for grazing animals as a part of a regenerative ag management method. Both methods blend beautifully together, their qualities and practices complement one another.
Thank you for the long post. :) That was what I was thinking about the building of soil with GB. And if you have a small plot of land I think it is better to grow compost/cover plants at the end of the season when no more crops are grown and as soon as spring starts cut them and move them to the compost pille to make more growing space and create humus outside the beds. I was also thinking about combining GB with no-dig, but there is a big BUT. I am not sure if even with dedicating 60% of the area for compost crops the farm would produce enough compost to mulch it in a classic no-dig way of just leaving the compost on the ground. As for growing on big reas- sure no-till is a greate practice. But I think I will never be OK with big farms. For me it is just a ineffective agricultural model to have farms over 5 hectares. The data always shows that small farms use their soil far more efficient and economical. That's what got me into GB- it gives the tools to grow lare amounts of grains, vegetables and humus on minimal land.
+Some Guy Are you kidding!? Those countries were at one time lush and green and it was due to bad farming that turned them into deserts? I have to look that up. That sounds incredible.
OOH Ray I wish that you are going to Sweden and show this kind of "Show" for our farmers, or ät least so we who wanna go to a meeting "Shows" in Sweden cause there arent many of this shows😋 än yes it would have Bern Nice to meet YOU! To! 😃 my best.. //Emil Bengtsson 😄
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Rest In Peace David, you will be missed.
I've watched this twice and will certainly watch it again and again. This is a VERY important soil video. I'm so grateful that you have shared this with the world.
"soil whisperer" I liked that ! Thank you !
Following from Africa Zambia🇿🇲🇿🇲🇿🇲🇿🇲
If I was local to Living Web Farms, I would LIVE at their facility. I have learned soooo much from their content, and I get incredibly inspired by it to make my little parcel on this earth a better, more alive place.
Awesome! Love how the no till soil is left in the beaker the whole talk, and it still is a perfect clump. Such a great way to make a point! Thanks for the videos.
Incredible delivery of information
I love pat
He's in every video he almost have knowledge of every thing
Most organic matter is in the top 2 inches. At 14:10 For every 1% organic matter, I can hold 17,000 to 21,000 gallons more of water per acre. Plants leak 80% of their carbon but weeds only leak 20%. In terms of size of particles the largest is sand then silt and then clay.
Excellent! Clear and didactic explanations! Congrats!
RIP Mr. Brandt
Thank you very much for the information in this great video. I understand soil and it's care much differently now.
Powerful 💥💯
For people who already like the idea and are familiar with the biology side of it already, skip to 7 minutes for the empirical visual demonstration.
What a great video
Great video! - Really learning a lot from you, Elaine Ingham and Mr Lowenstein about soil microbiology! -- When is Part 2 going up on RUclips? - Thanks
Great communicator.
Very insightful 🥳💥🇿🇲
is there some one to tell me how to seed vetch without disturbing the ground?
Hi there i have a question if thats ok . we recently purchased a property and before finding out about no till decided to till it over (i know dumb huh :/ ) we only tilled the once but this has unleashed dormant bindweed seeds that were hiding away .
see this is where it gets tricky our soil type is sand (not the sandy loam) just sand with temperatures as low as -22 f in winter and as high as 85 Fahrenheit in summer with the last frost around May 15th and very little rainfall . This is going to make you scratch your head :D we basically need a cover crop mix that is winter hardy,drought resistant & sand loving (mission impossible) . buckwheat and sorghum is the go to here for sandy soil but the minute there is a frost its bye bye or it just shrivels up due to summer heat. this land was extensively tilled for many years and is now just covered in moss . any help would be much appreciated. thank you Gabby
How do you call those bacterias that eats up the carbon complexs in contact with air after tillage? i cant get the right word be hearing
Aerobic bacteria?
What if one wanted to re plant 10 ac of walnuts with something else (35+ yo) on black walnut rootstock? As an individual who practices no till I’m kind of at a loss of to pull and rip or pull and leave the roots in to break down? I know they release toxins and of course there are (bad) nematodes. Crop hasn’t been harvested in 3 or 4 years.
How do you deal with things like ruts and footprints that make the field rough and uneven without some tillage????
Question if you pick the beans do you still the nitrogen
Where's Honest Dave?
Im always a little puzzled in the dig vs no dig discussion. We are taught that digging disturbs the soil and burns out the organic matter. And at the same time we have biointensive gardeners who not just dig but double-dig their beds and get a increase in organic matter content.
I think you may have the wrong idea of what bio-intensive is. In biointensive method you don't use chemical fertilizers, nor herbicides of pesticides. It only depends on on-site made compost from compost crops making up 60% of the growing space.
Yes, and they had proved that their soils are getting better and better with each year with the tottal organic matter content rising not deminishing.
Michał Malinowski The key features behind double digging that help it to grow soil mass is the fact that: you are physically adding compost to the permanent raised bed, adding mass; you are not mixing the layers of the soil so the microbiome can recuperate more quickly and the soil structure is not compacted, crushed or tilled into a powder allowing more water to be retained, also adding mass; if you follow the GROW Biointensive method then 60% of your garden space is dedicated to growing green manure or cover crops. This green manure uses the most basic quality of plants, the fact that they take soil nutrients and air and turn them into physical organic structures (they grow) to create material to add into the system. This is a very effective way of building soil structure, retaining moisture, reducing compaction, and producing material for compost piles. Biointensive methods only advocate double digging only for the first few years of getting the beds established, after which no tilling or digging should be required. Using a broadfork is also very effective for deep tilling while still maintaining soil structure and introducing oxygen into the deeper layers of the soil. Deeper aeration allows for deeper and more robust root systems, meaning more dead roots after each season, meaning more food and fuel for the soil biome.
There is no impasse between these two methods: no-till and biointensive (double digging); both methods use cover crops and focus on building soil structure, only one method is geared more toward deep cultivation for vegetable, root, grain and fruiting crops. This video is primarily addressing people who are managing large pieces of land used to graze animals, fed wildlife and/or grow hay. Some people till their hay fields and that is a destructive practice. Planting cover crops is more effective at creating soil structure, higher fertility and high quality, high yield crops than tilling, fertilizing, and spraying for pests. It is also particularly effective for grazing animals as a part of a regenerative ag management method. Both methods blend beautifully together, their qualities and practices complement one another.
Thank you for the long post. :) That was what I was thinking about the building of soil with GB. And if you have a small plot of land I think it is better to grow compost/cover plants at the end of the season when no more crops are grown and as soon as spring starts cut them and move them to the compost pille to make more growing space and create humus outside the beds. I was also thinking about combining GB with no-dig, but there is a big BUT. I am not sure if even with dedicating 60% of the area for compost crops the farm would produce enough compost to mulch it in a classic no-dig way of just leaving the compost on the ground. As for growing on big reas- sure no-till is a greate practice. But I think I will never be OK with big farms. For me it is just a ineffective agricultural model to have farms over 5 hectares. The data always shows that small farms use their soil far more efficient and economical. That's what got me into GB- it gives the tools to grow lare amounts of grains, vegetables and humus on minimal land.
+Some Guy Are you kidding!? Those countries were at one time lush and green and it was due to bad farming that turned them into deserts? I have to look that up. That sounds incredible.
OOH Ray I wish that you are going to Sweden and show this kind of "Show" for our farmers, or ät least so we who wanna go to a meeting "Shows" in Sweden cause there arent many of this shows😋 än yes it would have Bern Nice to meet YOU! To! 😃 my best.. //Emil Bengtsson 😄
I now believe in the Bible.