'02 TJ inline 6 3 speed slushbox here. One thing to look for in early TJs is a cracked head between the #3 & #4 cylinders. The production 0331 head was susceptible to cracking, 2000, 2001 and 2002. In 2002+- they redesigned the head with a thicker deck, which can be identified by looking down the oil filler cap. If the head is stamped "TUPY" it's the upgraded head, if there's no stamp, it's the old head. If the crack is not too bad yet an unscrupulous seller will change the oil just before selling it and you won't see coolant in the oil (looks like a milkshake) until you've driven it a few hundred miles. And a small crack is only going to get worse. Whether the old style head will crack is hit or miss. Some last for the life of the engine while others crack within 30,000 miles, though it's more common for them to crack above 100,000+ miles. If you have the old head and are working on it for whatever reason (like valve work or head gasket replacement) and you're over 100,000 miles most savvy mechanics recommend replacing with a TUPY head or at least magnafluxing the #3/#4 saddle area. An $800-$1,000 fix. Another thing to look for is cheap blown out aftermarket shocks. Jeeps driven offroad are hard on shocks so if the seller is a cheapskate he'll have skimped when replacing shocks. I know I'll get some flak here but a good set of shocks costs $500-$800 and is worth it concerning slightly better highway manners, much less shock fade in the washboards and greater longevity. If the rig is grossly overweight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, a ton of parts in the trunk, etc., the springs may have sagged and need replacement too, $400. You can measure the frame rail clearance to determine how much sag has occurred. If the rig has ABS beware the ABS light. I know most pooh-pooh ABS but I like it in icy and thin sand over rock situations, super steep downhills where your tires are sliding and of course panic stops on pavement. That ABS light could mean a broken wire, chewed up tone ring sensor, cheap to fix, *or* that the ABS computer/hydraulic control module has failed, a $2,500 repair. If the rig is old (all TJs are approaching 15-20 years old) with 100,000+- miles on it with no record of water pump/hoses/radiator replacement negotiate for a $900 bill to replace the radiator, the hoses go soft, radiator gradually clogs up, etc. You'll not notice it during a test drive but when crawling uphill fully loaded with camping gear in 105° windless desert off-roading the red blinking check engine light and the temp gauge pegging at 240° will get your attention. BTW, the OEM Mopar radiator is as good as any aftermarket radiator. A visit to a shop that has an industrial strength OBD reader is a must. If a reasonable number of intermittent non critical codes pop up that's a good thing. If there's not a single code on record it is suspicious, maybe the seller wiped the rig's OBD records to hide something serious. Lastly, I shied away from buying a "built" TJ rig with a 4" lift and 35" tires, mongo bumpers, light racks, winch, etc. A quick exam of most home garage builds reveals they're sexy looking, but has the necessary infrastructure required to make them good daily drivers and reliable offroad monsters been done? I'm talking about long arm kits, adjustable control arms, upgraded suspension, upgraded diffs with higher ratios to match the tires, a Cardan rear drive shaft because the 2 door TJ is already at the limit of a reasonable driveshaft angle, beefed up steering, and, if hard lockers have been installed stronger axle shafts and U-joints, etc. A properly built used TJ with a 4" lift and 35+ inch tires with lockers should sell for $30-$40k, not $15k. After looking at dozens of private and used car dealer TJs locally I bought my '02 from Hertz in 2005 for 13k with 30,000 miles on it in Hawaii and had it shipped to Long Beach sight unseen. Totally stock with good maintenance records. The only surprise was it would not shift into 4WD; turns out they disabled the shift lever (to protect innocent renters in Hawaii) which was easily fixed in 15 minutes. Since then I've armored up, gone to 31" AT tires, a 2" spring puck lift with adjustable control arms, dumped the side steps for rock sliders, had the axle tubes straightened, installed the factory LSD, beefed up the steering with Heim joints and installed a tranny cooler and deep pan tranny pan. Yep, a few thousand dollars but now it's quite capable when moderately off-roading and reliability is rock solid. I like it even though it's not a show queen in the parking lot, a feature considering how many 4 door JKs are stolen around here.
Really appreciate this video. Looking to buy a used 03 Wrangler this week and wanting to cover all my bases. This helped a lot with knowing what to look for.
great info man. I just picked up a 98 Jeep TJ and cant believe how much I am falling in love with it already. I did just post a video on my channel about it if your interested in having a look.
Rear mail oil seal, exhaust manifold, valve cover leak, rear hatch door hinges, floor boards, , im on my way to buy a 2005 Rubicon, I built a 97 tj, I’ll make sure I look at rust issues, good video
If a TJ has a solid frame everything else can be overcome. It's a boxed in frame which means it's super strong but also means it holds dirt and moisture. In addition, make sure the torque box on the body will rot before the frame but that is repairable.
In my opinion if your buying a TJ just know it's going to be around 20yrs old so get ready to turn some wrenches but in reality it's a very simple easy to work on platform you ain't gotta worry about electrical issues or sensors problems that you get from newer vehicles if something breaks down it's mechanical 🛠
Good video. The TJ frames can rust from the inside out, so a frame can visually look ok, but still be shot. I found out my frame was shot when I went to remove the tranny to replace my clutch. The bottom of the frame rails came off with the skid plate. After that Buckwheat moment, a close inspection of the entire frame revealed it was toast - unrepairable. Use a bore scope and look inside the frame - bore scopes are cheap these days and can save you thousands of $. Another common point to rust is the front fenders at the top of the tire well arch. It’s easy to spot just by looking under the fenders. Another common body rust point is the rear wheel wells in the area close to the frame. This area is hard to see without removing the rear wheel well liner. Last common rust area- use a bore scope on the torque boxes (passenger and driver’s side body mounts) to see how bad the rust is there - another potentially expensive repair.
My 99 did the same thing and it was barley 10 years old. Chrysler really should have done something with this issue, I know quite a few people here in Michigan with the same exact issue. Toyota at least replaced frames for people.
My neighbor just gave me a 04 tj that has some rust issues but runs like a top. My son and I are going to give it a good looking over tomorrow and make a plan from there.
I needed to see this as I was not aware of the frame rust issues. I’m looking at going to a TJ and sticking around the 90k - 140k mileage. After watching this video I unfollowed a few I was watching as they looked’ used’ but possibly not maintained well. I am located in Texas so I will be looking for preferably a local / southern Jeep. Thank you for the insight into the TJ.
Just bought my 02 Jeep tj in December. I love watching other people’s tj videos and it made me want to make my own vlog channel since I finally got my dream fixed upper! Nice video. My first tj video is premiering on Wednesday @7 :) also your frame looks real nice, I got to do some work on mine!
@@_everydayoffroad_ I'm just wondering. Are there many Jeeps for sale down south? I'm in MA and there seem to be newer ones used but not too many of the older ones. Is there a source you can tell me to look. Thanks
@@bodieb.1239 The TJ's are getting harder to find, and the ones you do find are going for crazy prices. There are usually some on the market but you have to search for a while if you want anything specific (i.e. 5 speed trans, etc.)
All rear mains leaks as long as it's just a small drip and doesn't require adding oil between changes. Mine started dripping after I switched to synthetic oil. It provides rust proofing. Lol
thanks, great video, the rust issue is delicate, private owners really don't like potential buyers pinging around on the frame with hammers and screw drivers causing incidental damage, but they should expect it.
Great video. Informative. Heard tips not heard before on other buying TJ's videos. HEY, know what would have been really cool? At the end if you would have drove over top of camera and then ended video.
Headers & the removal of the catalytic converter for a cherry bomb muffler makes a world of difference on the plastic tappet covered 1990s series TJ Renate , basically the long forgotten Rambler 6.Trev New Zealand.
"No bus," error and not starting. I hate that error. You have to jump the ignition computer with 5 volts to get the Jeep to start and then extract the code to see what needs to be fixed. A jeep with a, "no bus," error can be very cheap but the error is annoying. Another one that can get you a Jeep very affordably is death wobble / death rattle. This problem seems horrible but is very easy to fix. If you find a Jeep with death rattle that is being sold. Look very disgusted at the Jeep and then give a low offer. It often works. I once got a 1997 for $1000. The death wobble / death rattle cure cost me $115. I sold the jeep a month later for $5200. Death wobble is nothing to be afraid to fix. Also do the key on and off trick to see the error codes.
Having recently acquired an original 01 TJ needing frame rust repair and a complete suspension front to back, tune up, every fluid changed etc etc. You shouldn’t be buying a TJ if u don’t have the knowledge to fox lost if it yourself and the $ to pay for someone to fix the frame. These videos should be titled “Common issues you will need to fix when u buy a TJ” Don’t pay $ for a Jeep that will cost u a lot more than what it’s worth to pay a professional to address all the issues These old Jeeps are meant for someone with knowledge or having friends with the know how to fix it for cheap/free. The average young person who’s not mechanically inclined should not buy something that’s gonna need lots of work after paying top $ for one Yes these r great jeeps, last real Jeep, but it’s a constant project I love mine but I got it for free and still put over $5,500 into her. I paid to have the frame fixed and bought 5 new tires & rims plus paid for an output shaft seal replacement. Otherwise I did the suspension and everything else myself. If I paid $5K for it then right now I might get my $ back. Buyer beware
My 03 tj I bought 2 years ago had zero rust,120,000 miles ,and runs like new. I must of lucked out. I’m the second owner and I think the previous owner from Philadelphia must of kept it garaged. I keep putting the fluid film under it every year.
Big issue with 05/06 TCM. I only have issues with my transmission in very hot weather, my guess is the issue is a bad solder joint on the PC board. Finding a working TCM new/or used is a pain.
I looked at one with 58k miles last year, until I saw, and smelled, that crappy frame coating, that seemed it belonged on a flat roof on a 3 story building in Queens, NY, not a vehicle frame. I walked away, it was covering a load of hurt and chipping up already.
Besides the rust... usually when people looking to buy TJ and found one.. They will buy it regardless of these minor issues especially if it's a good deal.. I paid 7k for mine and it needed new distributor cap and new catalyst converter.. I baught it right away and replaced those 2 things.. the very next thing I did was ripped off the air condition panels and replaced it with switches for silly things I can turn on and off with like camaras where fans, radio, lights etc (dual battery) . I never understood why there's AC in older jeeps.. the beauty of these old jeeps is that when the weather gets hot.. the top, windows, and doors come off,, i live by this rules in my jeep.. if Temperatures is 50 to 65degree everything is intact, if it's 75 to 80 windows and top comes off, 85 degree doors come off, 90 to 100 bikini top is on and everything is off.. This is why I dont understand the purpose of a Air conditioning in older jeeps..your jeep is very nice though.
I'm from so cal and in summer it hits 114 degrees. me being very fair skin color I leave my hardtop on year around. I would love to take my top off when it's 70 to 85 degrees but taking it off and putting it back on isn't very feasible by yourself.
What if it’s 90 degrees and raining. Need Air condition. Never would purchase a vehicle if the A/C doesn’t work. A/C repair could be into the thousands to repair. Depending on the vehicle. My grandfather had a a 1968 Mercedes. A/C stopped working. Repair bill was over 8 thousand dollars
Hi! I have followed your channel for a little while now. I have been wanting a TJ since I first learned about them and am just naturally drawn to their appearance! A 2000 TJ Sahara has come available. the owner and I talked for a while. He gave its know history and repairs. He says the only known current problem is sometimes the dash gauges turn off then back on. “They’ll drop out.” He says he’s had it looked at and they don’t know the source. Sounds like typical electrical glitch to me, as my other 3 newer jeeps, their electric glitches every now and then. Is this a known issue with TJ’s or jeeps in general?
I believe so, I read on another thread about gauge cluster intermittent contact. I bought the jeep this week! Have driven it several times. Love it so much! No problems yet.
Over here in Ireland and the amount of TJs is probably less than 100 total maybe less than 50, so only one for sale in the country atm so not much choice. So I'm curious how difficult it is to work on these issues excluding the rust? Great video though, definitely helped with the research.
Other than frame work, the TJ is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. You can repair a valve cover gasket in about an hour yourself, and a rear main seal job is not the end of the world. You are correct, the main thing to look for is the rust because frame repair is very very expensive and time-consuming.
Jetting around the Curragh in Kildare in a Wrangler would be fun. Got lost in a field of sheep there as a kid, my uncle said you were lucky not to get an “arse full of rock salt” from a herder.
1 of the first things you said is wrong tj do have a tick problem the rockers and push rods wear causing a severe tick , luckily you only have to replace all top end stuff on the head ie push rods rocker arms and rocker seats and rocker bridge !
Great video, I had a 2003 TJ Sport which I purchased brand new. i got death wobble when I only had 20,000 miles on my Jeep. After several unsuccessful repairs, it turned out the factory tires were defective. I replaced all 4 tires and the vibration went away. Please, do a video on issue of death wobble. I'd also like to know about having big tires on TJ. I did test drive one recently and the ride was extremely rough.
that just starts arguments , every one has an opinion on death wobbles and you ask them they are always right and your wrong no matter what fix they chose
@@grumpy-g5s I had it on two vehicles I own and in both cases, the problem was the track bar bushing. Not saying that is the only cause, but I would start my search there. Just have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the attachment point of the track bar to the frame. If there is too much motion, the bushing is bad. If not, move on to other potential causes.
Thank you for the video, seems like a lot of good info The TJ/LJ is my dream vehicle, and I’m getting close to being able to buy one to work on If i end up with one without much rust, are these pretty easy to get new parts for if I have to rebuild the motor or trans? Or replace just about anything else? I don’t plan to have a mudder, I just want a cruiser If you have any ideas for websites to find parts I’m all ears Thanks
Surface rust is never a big deal. It can still be cleaned and treated. It's when the rust has eaten through, and the metal is starting to flake. Obviously, if there's a rust hole anywhere, that's a clear sign to stay away from that vehicle.
Great informative video. However, a leaking valve cover gasket is a simple do-it-yourself repair so by no means do I think it should be a deal breaker nor do I think any minor wear/tear items or things that need adjustment or are relatively inexpensive to repair/replace should be a reason not to buy a Jeep as long as they are taken into consideration when making an offer. You advised people not to buy a Jeep if they notice signs of a leaking valve cover gasket but then immediately state that it's an easy fix for less than $100. You also said people shouldn't buy a Jeep if it pulls to one side (needs front brakes or an alignment(?) = no biggie) but all of these minor issues can be used as points of negotiation to justify a lower offer. If the seller is reasonable and willing to take some money off it's worth moving forward, if not then I'd say walk away. The only time I'd recommend walking away from a Jeep is if there are major issues like troublesome engine noises (rod knocks, ticking, etc), burnt smelling oil, major leaks, odd drive train noises, problems shifting the transmission, major rust and general evidence of abuse or neglect.
Looking to buy a 1998 wrangler sport 4.0 manual with 175k. No major rust issues. Needs some things to get it road ready. It’s rough around the edges but the body is straight. Needs some fuel line work, it sat for about the last 7 years under a carport. It does start and run. Guy wants 3k. Should I buy it? Talk him down? Stay away?
Great video. Beautiful TJ Mine is the midnight blue one. I have a question. I’m getting code 174 and 171 Replaced bank one upstream O2S and code came back 174. Then replaced fuel pump. Still getting 171 and 174. I noticed that one of the ends of the Crank Case vent hose rubber fitting is cracked. Where can I find one if those ccv hose. I will appreciate any suggestions. I depend on that Jeep for my cancer treatment appointments. Is my baby since 2006 bought it brand new it looks great too I have taking good care of it. Thank you 🙏 in advanced
Thanks for the video. I own an 04 Rubi TJ that was passed down and I would love to lift it and put an undercoat. The Jeep lived most of it's life in AZ and has very little rust. Now that it's back to it's original home NJ I worry about salt and water. It is stock as of now and about to break 100k miles. It sounds about ripe for a new suspension with Jersey potholes. Could anyone suggest a lift kit and/or trustworthy shop to do this? I can do basic repairs but I'm not about to mess with suspension. I still need it to be a daily driver but getting it dirty with snow and mud is just about my favorite thing.
I hope to be so fortunate that you will read my comment. This weekend, I need to choose amongst the following: 2005 rubicon $21k 82k mls 2009 tj x $18.500k 70k mls 2010 tj bill hillbilly edition $22k 47k mls 2012 tj s asking $25k 82k mls All lifted I know there is a ton to consider but this is my first jeep so I’m -1 level I will pull it flat behind my rv It will be my vehicle around town and off road but mild because I’m new. So I could add as I get more into it. Recommendations please???!!! If not from you, any of you please. I’m leaving to Utah for thanksgiving so I want to buy this weekend. I still have to sell my car and scooter. Thank you!!!
You got a great looking Jeep. It's my understanding that there weren't adequate drain holes in the frame. Were you able to drill some drainage holes in yours? Still, great looking Jeep!
That was the first mod I did on my 05 Rubi I purchased two years ago. 5/8" hole right behind the front lower control arm mounts and the same in front of the rear lower control arm mounts. I couldn't believe how much dirt came out of the frame! Now the frame gets "washed" every time the Jeep does! Add in a once-a-year rust converter treatment on the frame and mine is holding up well even up here in Salty Wisconsin. :)
Like many have said, you got one of the most near brand new looking, or better, TJ! Keep up the great work and maintenance! My '04 Rubi is still stock and I've kept it in pretty good maintenance for the last 8 years. I'm curious on which suspension lift did you get? 4" and 1" body kit to fit the 35s on yours? Did you also add pitman arm with Could I get the list like yours or similar to it? want to do it right where I wouldn't get the infamous wobble of death after =).
I’ve got a video that goes over everything super in-depth as far as the build list. But it’s a 4.5” suspension lift, no body lift. Upgraded track bar and beefed up Y-link steering, stock pitman arm
Hey i just found a 1999 TJ, from the pictures i saw it had rust on the wheel covers it self, other than that i want more advice and extra knowledge on the jeep as a whole milage etc... thanks
seen in the comments how much you paid for yours with 150k miles did that 150k worry you when buying? i know these 4.0s can get up to 300k if taken care of but in your opinion you think 150k is still high mileage when buying a tj? mine is a 02 and just hit 80k but i always want another TJ or maybe a YJ so as the years go by im wondering what will be too high of mileage for a jeep when i get to buying another one.
Looking to buy one and the seller says it needs an alignment which I assume means it’s pulling to one side. With that said Do you recommend me passing on this one?
I don't own jeep right now but it's 4:03am I am watching this vidoe and it's satisfying 😌 👌 ☺️ But I love fishing I always wish to have jeep fo take veach the beach do I don't have to do a long walk but I am looking to by jeep wrangler like that on Facebook market I don't no nothing about jeep ...I watched the whole vidoe and is there any other pacific thing I should look for when purchasing it And my price range is that 5,6
Looking at buying one with 207k miles, seems pretty clean and well maintained so far but what should I be concerned with primarily at that many miles? It’s a 2000 TJ 4.0 automatic.
Assuming a good visual inspection (no major rust) I would think 207k miles on a well maintained 4.0L would be fine. I have friends with 220-250k on their original motors and they are doing fine. With the automatic, I would think it should have already had the transmission rebuilt/replaced by that mileage. The auto transmissions usually require some major attention in the upper 100k’s.
With that many miles, you will have some leaks/squeaks, etc. As long as you are okay with replacing a gasket or seal here and there, you should be good to go in my opinion.
![Natanael Cano - Amor Eterno [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/EO4prCs6WpM/mqdefault.jpg)
'02 TJ inline 6 3 speed slushbox here.
One thing to look for in early TJs is a cracked head between the #3 & #4 cylinders. The production 0331 head was susceptible to cracking, 2000, 2001 and 2002. In 2002+- they redesigned the head with a thicker deck, which can be identified by looking down the oil filler cap. If the head is stamped "TUPY" it's the upgraded head, if there's no stamp, it's the old head. If the crack is not too bad yet an unscrupulous seller will change the oil just before selling it and you won't see coolant in the oil (looks like a milkshake) until you've driven it a few hundred miles. And a small crack is only going to get worse.
Whether the old style head will crack is hit or miss. Some last for the life of the engine while others crack within 30,000 miles, though it's more common for them to crack above 100,000+ miles. If you have the old head and are working on it for whatever reason (like valve work or head gasket replacement) and you're over 100,000 miles most savvy mechanics recommend replacing with a TUPY head or at least magnafluxing the #3/#4 saddle area. An $800-$1,000 fix.
Another thing to look for is cheap blown out aftermarket shocks. Jeeps driven offroad are hard on shocks so if the seller is a cheapskate he'll have skimped when replacing shocks. I know I'll get some flak here but a good set of shocks costs $500-$800 and is worth it concerning slightly better highway manners, much less shock fade in the washboards and greater longevity. If the rig is grossly overweight with aftermarket bumpers, winch, a ton of parts in the trunk, etc., the springs may have sagged and need replacement too, $400. You can measure the frame rail clearance to determine how much sag has occurred.
If the rig has ABS beware the ABS light. I know most pooh-pooh ABS but I like it in icy and thin sand over rock situations, super steep downhills where your tires are sliding and of course panic stops on pavement. That ABS light could mean a broken wire, chewed up tone ring sensor, cheap to fix, *or* that the ABS computer/hydraulic control module has failed, a $2,500 repair.
If the rig is old (all TJs are approaching 15-20 years old) with 100,000+- miles on it with no record of water pump/hoses/radiator replacement negotiate for a $900 bill to replace the radiator, the hoses go soft, radiator gradually clogs up, etc. You'll not notice it during a test drive but when crawling uphill fully loaded with camping gear in 105° windless desert off-roading the red blinking check engine light and the temp gauge pegging at 240° will get your attention. BTW, the OEM Mopar radiator is as good as any aftermarket radiator.
A visit to a shop that has an industrial strength OBD reader is a must. If a reasonable number of intermittent non critical codes pop up that's a good thing. If there's not a single code on record it is suspicious, maybe the seller wiped the rig's OBD records to hide something serious.
Lastly, I shied away from buying a "built" TJ rig with a 4" lift and 35" tires, mongo bumpers, light racks, winch, etc. A quick exam of most home garage builds reveals they're sexy looking, but has the necessary infrastructure required to make them good daily drivers and reliable offroad monsters been done? I'm talking about long arm kits, adjustable control arms, upgraded suspension, upgraded diffs with higher ratios to match the tires, a Cardan rear drive shaft because the 2 door TJ is already at the limit of a reasonable driveshaft angle, beefed up steering, and, if hard lockers have been installed stronger axle shafts and U-joints, etc. A properly built used TJ with a 4" lift and 35+ inch tires with lockers should sell for $30-$40k, not $15k.
After looking at dozens of private and used car dealer TJs locally I bought my '02 from Hertz in 2005 for 13k with 30,000 miles on it in Hawaii and had it shipped to Long Beach sight unseen. Totally stock with good maintenance records. The only surprise was it would not shift into 4WD; turns out they disabled the shift lever (to protect innocent renters in Hawaii) which was easily fixed in 15 minutes. Since then I've armored up, gone to 31" AT tires, a 2" spring puck lift with adjustable control arms, dumped the side steps for rock sliders, had the axle tubes straightened, installed the factory LSD, beefed up the steering with Heim joints and installed a tranny cooler and deep pan tranny pan. Yep, a few thousand dollars but now it's quite capable when moderately off-roading and reliability is rock solid. I like it even though it's not a show queen in the parking lot, a feature considering how many 4 door JKs are stolen around here.
I wished I would have read your inputs. I would have saved a lot.
Thanks for all this great info @mark Wyatt
Bedliner actually traps moisture against your frame. Next time, use POR 15 or rust oleum rust converter and then a good paint like black rust oleum...
Really appreciate this video. Looking to buy a used 03 Wrangler this week and wanting to cover all my bases. This helped a lot with knowing what to look for.
Beautiful Jeep you got there!!! Another one is the cracked exhaust manifold!!
Yep! That’s what took my wrangler out.
I didn’t know Dale Jr did Jeep reviews. Thank you sir
That's a good looking wrangler. Love the color and stance.
great info man. I just picked up a 98 Jeep TJ and cant believe how much I am falling in love with it already. I did just post a video on my channel about it if your interested in having a look.
Thank you so much for this basic video. I hope to get a Jeep in my life time. It's been a childhood dream to own one since I was 5. I am not 40. 😞
TJ is 100% where it’s at. My pick of the bunch
Easily one of the most beautiful Jeeps I’ve seen. Thank you very much for the information.
Up here in Michigan we consider oil leaks a rust preventive. Can’t save the body’s so preserve the frame.
Lmao
Exhaust manifold is another one
Check for tub rust under the carpets in the cab....
Awesome TJ man!!🔥
Thanks!
Rear mail oil seal, exhaust manifold, valve cover leak, rear hatch door hinges, floor boards, , im on my way to buy a 2005 Rubicon, I built a 97 tj, I’ll make sure I look at rust issues, good video
Those method wheels are 🔥 love the setup, exactly what i want
Definitely, you are helping me to buy the best one on my possibilities, thanks for this video !!
Dude, your Jeep is absolutely bad-ASS! That’s my dream Jeep right there. Im looking an an 05 Rubicon LJ next week and ill use these tips. Thanks man.
Very clean TJ!!! Hope to get mine to that level when I find a good one.
looking at 04 lj 140k on it this week, thanks for the heads-up. yours reminds me of my 06, soo clean. keep that baby brother.
If a TJ has a solid frame everything else can be overcome. It's a boxed in frame which means it's super strong but also means it holds dirt and moisture. In addition, make sure the torque box on the body will rot before the frame but that is repairable.
In my opinion if your buying a TJ just know it's going to be around 20yrs old so get ready to turn some wrenches but in reality it's a very simple easy to work on platform you ain't gotta worry about electrical issues or sensors problems that you get from newer vehicles if something breaks down it's mechanical 🛠
Good video. The TJ frames can rust from the inside out, so a frame can visually look ok, but still be shot. I found out my frame was shot when I went to remove the tranny to replace my clutch. The bottom of the frame rails came off with the skid plate. After that Buckwheat moment, a close inspection of the entire frame revealed it was toast - unrepairable. Use a bore scope and look inside the frame - bore scopes are cheap these days and can save you thousands of $. Another common point to rust is the front fenders at the top of the tire well arch. It’s easy to spot just by looking under the fenders. Another common body rust point is the rear wheel wells in the area close to the frame. This area is hard to see without removing the rear wheel well liner. Last common rust area- use a bore scope on the torque boxes (passenger and driver’s side body mounts) to see how bad the rust is there - another potentially expensive repair.
Thanks for the additional info!
Mike Hartmann That really sucks. If Chyrsler would have just put in some proper drain holes in the frames none of this crap would have happened
My 99 did the same thing and it was barley 10 years old. Chrysler really should have done something with this issue, I know quite a few people here in Michigan with the same exact issue. Toyota at least replaced frames for people.
Great info, thanks for posting. Cherry looking Jeep.
My neighbor just gave me a 04 tj that has some rust issues but runs like a top. My son and I are going to give it a good looking over tomorrow and make a plan from there.
This video was to the point and helpful. Thank you
Great looking Jeep and good advice. 👍
Yep. I just got a really clean 2000 TJ given to me. No rust, but the rear main seal needs attention.
Good video when played at double speed
I talk slow as hell. It’s called being from Alabama
Drill drain holes in the frame. We never drove ours in the winter. Garage kept.
Great looking jeep... I just found a 03 Rubicon Tomb Raider edition 100% rust free, no oil leaks... This one is not going in the woods...
Thanks for watching! Sounds like a cool find
I needed to see this as I was not aware of the frame rust issues. I’m looking at going to a TJ and sticking around the 90k - 140k mileage. After watching this video I unfollowed a few I was watching as they looked’ used’ but possibly not maintained well. I am located in Texas so I will be looking for preferably a local / southern Jeep.
Thank you for the insight into the TJ.
Just got a 06 Rubicon 2 Dr , new 4.0 6 speed.. soft top .. whoever had it before me took verrrrrry good care of it
What a great looking Jeep! Thanks for the information.
Just bought my 02 Jeep tj in December. I love watching other people’s tj videos and it made me want to make my own vlog channel since I finally got my dream fixed upper! Nice video. My first tj video is premiering on Wednesday @7 :) also your frame looks real nice, I got to do some work on mine!
My 05 sport is identical to yours basically. Love that color. The NSG370 is a pretty damn good transmission as well.
WOW that is really nice vehicle. Thanks for the help. I'm presently in the market for 1997 to 2006 Was told they are the safest years.
That is correct. A well maintained 97-06 can’t be beaten.
@@_everydayoffroad_ I'm just wondering. Are there many Jeeps for sale down south? I'm in MA and there seem to be newer ones used but not too many of the older ones. Is there a source you can tell me to look. Thanks
@@bodieb.1239 The TJ's are getting harder to find, and the ones you do find are going for crazy prices. There are usually some on the market but you have to search for a while if you want anything specific (i.e. 5 speed trans, etc.)
@@bodieb.1239 yes, I found 4 in my area when I bought mine.
This is a very good review. Thank you for sharing. A+
All rear mains leaks as long as it's just a small drip and doesn't require adding oil between changes. Mine started dripping after I switched to synthetic oil. It provides rust proofing. Lol
Wrong
thanks, great video, the rust issue is delicate, private owners really don't like potential buyers pinging around on the frame with hammers and screw drivers causing incidental damage, but they should expect it.
Agree, but if the frame is solid they have nothing to worry about. A light tap with a hammer is all that’s really required
Great looking TJ, man.
Thinking about picking up a tj later on this year, it's defiantly in my top 3 cars list!
Good video, man!
Thanks bud!
Badass ride bro, thanks for the vid!!
Flat tappet cam setup on the 4l engine can absolutely have lifter and cam lobe flattening issues, buy they go very fast if that happens.
Great video. Informative. Heard tips not heard before on other buying TJ's videos. HEY, know what would have been really cool? At the end if you would have drove over top of camera and then ended video.
Headers & the removal of the catalytic converter for a cherry bomb muffler makes a world of difference on the plastic tappet covered 1990s series TJ Renate , basically the long forgotten Rambler 6.Trev New Zealand.
Love the stance, this is exactly what I want to put on my 04 TJ. Can you tell me what your set up is? Lift, tire/wheel size, gearing, etc.
I found one for 68 thousand miles on it well kept.
Jump on it!
"No bus," error and not starting. I hate that error. You have to jump the ignition computer with 5 volts to get the Jeep to start and then extract the code to see what needs to be fixed. A jeep with a, "no bus," error can be very cheap but the error is annoying. Another one that can get you a Jeep very affordably is death wobble / death rattle. This problem seems horrible but is very easy to fix. If you find a Jeep with death rattle that is being sold. Look very disgusted at the Jeep and then give a low offer. It often works. I once got a 1997 for $1000. The death wobble / death rattle cure cost me $115. I sold the jeep a month later for $5200. Death wobble is nothing to be afraid to fix. Also do the key on and off trick to see the error codes.
I would love to buy a TJ from the south and bring it up north.
Super nice jeep. Good info...
exhaust manifold leaks are common , sounds like a tick
Mine is doing that now. Will be a video coming soon on changing out the manifolds
Thank you very much. Great job.
Having recently acquired an original 01 TJ needing frame rust repair and a complete suspension front to back, tune up, every fluid changed etc etc.
You shouldn’t be buying a TJ if u don’t have the knowledge to fox lost if it yourself and the $ to pay for someone to fix the frame.
These videos should be titled “Common issues you will need to fix when u buy a TJ”
Don’t pay $ for a Jeep that will cost u a lot more than what it’s worth to pay a professional to address all the issues
These old Jeeps are meant for someone with knowledge or having friends with the know how to fix it for cheap/free.
The average young person who’s not mechanically inclined should not buy something that’s gonna need lots of work after paying top $ for one
Yes these r great jeeps, last real Jeep, but it’s a constant project
I love mine but I got it for free and still put over $5,500 into her. I paid to have the frame fixed and bought 5 new tires & rims plus paid for an output shaft seal replacement. Otherwise I did the suspension and everything else myself. If I paid $5K for it then right now I might get my $ back. Buyer beware
My 03 tj I bought 2 years ago had zero rust,120,000 miles ,and runs like new. I must of lucked out. I’m the second owner and I think the previous owner from Philadelphia must of kept it garaged. I keep putting the fluid film under it every year.
A really good video!
Tie rods wouldn’t stop me from buying this I do body work and paint so rust no problem . If it’s pulling to one side sounds like alignment 50.00
Big issue with 05/06 TCM. I only have issues with my transmission in very hot weather, my guess is the issue is a bad solder joint on the PC board. Finding a working TCM new/or used is a pain.
Thank you, so helpful!
Jeep looks real good man. Nice work on it. Love the lift Did you pull the body when you did the frame spray?
You have got a very clean and beautiful tj🥰
Thanks!
I looked at one with 58k miles last year, until I saw, and smelled, that crappy frame coating, that seemed it belonged on a flat roof on a 3 story building in Queens, NY, not a vehicle frame. I walked away, it was covering a load of hurt and chipping up already.
Besides the rust... usually when people looking to buy TJ and found one.. They will buy it regardless of these minor issues especially if it's a good deal.. I paid 7k for mine and it needed new distributor cap and new catalyst converter.. I baught it right away and replaced those 2 things.. the very next thing I did was ripped off the air condition panels and replaced it with switches for silly things I can turn on and off with like camaras where fans, radio, lights etc (dual battery) . I never understood why there's AC in older jeeps.. the beauty of these old jeeps is that when the weather gets hot.. the top, windows, and doors come off,, i live by this rules in my jeep.. if Temperatures is 50 to 65degree everything is intact, if it's 75 to 80 windows and top comes off, 85 degree doors come off, 90 to 100 bikini top is on and everything is off..
This is why I dont understand the purpose of a Air conditioning in older jeeps..your jeep is very nice though.
I'm from so cal and in summer it hits 114 degrees. me being very fair skin color I leave my hardtop on year around. I would love to take my top off when it's 70 to 85 degrees but taking it off and putting it back on isn't very feasible by yourself.
What if it’s 90 degrees and raining. Need Air condition. Never would purchase a vehicle if the A/C doesn’t work. A/C repair could be into the thousands to repair. Depending on the vehicle. My grandfather had a a 1968 Mercedes. A/C stopped working. Repair bill was over 8 thousand dollars
Hi! I have followed your channel for a little while now. I have been wanting a TJ since I first learned about them and am just naturally drawn to their appearance! A 2000 TJ Sahara has come available. the owner and I talked for a while. He gave its know history and repairs. He says the only known current problem is sometimes the dash gauges turn off then back on. “They’ll drop out.” He says he’s had it looked at and they don’t know the source. Sounds like typical electrical glitch to me, as my other 3 newer jeeps, their electric glitches every now and then. Is this a known issue with TJ’s or jeeps in general?
Did you ever figure the gauge issue out?
I believe so, I read on another thread about gauge cluster intermittent contact. I bought the jeep this week! Have driven it several times. Love it so much! No problems yet.
@@maketodaypretty1505 congrats! Enjoy! They’re the best!
Thank you!
Over here in Ireland and the amount of TJs is probably less than 100 total maybe less than 50, so only one for sale in the country atm so not much choice. So I'm curious how difficult it is to work on these issues excluding the rust? Great video though, definitely helped with the research.
Other than frame work, the TJ is one of the easiest vehicles to work on. You can repair a valve cover gasket in about an hour yourself, and a rear main seal job is not the end of the world. You are correct, the main thing to look for is the rust because frame repair is very very expensive and time-consuming.
Jetting around the Curragh in Kildare in a Wrangler would be fun. Got lost in a field of sheep there as a kid, my uncle said you were lucky not to get an “arse full of rock salt” from a herder.
Informative video. Thank you. How much did you score that for though? That's exactly the condition I'd be hoping to find a jeep in.
$11k
1 of the first things you said is wrong tj do have a tick problem the rockers and push rods wear causing a severe tick , luckily you only have to replace all top end stuff on the head ie push rods rocker arms and rocker seats and rocker bridge !
And a rear main seal is a nightmare to put in
Great video, I had a 2003 TJ Sport which I purchased brand new. i got death wobble when I only had 20,000 miles on my Jeep. After several unsuccessful repairs, it turned out the factory tires were defective. I replaced all 4 tires and the vibration went away. Please, do a video on issue of death wobble. I'd also like to know about having big tires on TJ. I did test drive one recently and the ride was extremely rough.
that just starts arguments , every one has an opinion on death wobbles and you ask them they are always right and your wrong no matter what fix they chose
@@grumpy-g5s I had it on two vehicles I own and in both cases, the problem was the track bar bushing. Not saying that is the only cause, but I would start my search there. Just have someone turn the steering wheel back and forth while you look at the attachment point of the track bar to the frame. If there is too much motion, the bushing is bad. If not, move on to other potential causes.
@@bjacobhill7095 for the TJ generation 9/10 death wobble is caused by bad tires........
Thank you for the video, seems like a lot of good info
The TJ/LJ is my dream vehicle, and I’m getting close to being able to buy one to work on
If i end up with one without much rust, are these pretty easy to get new parts for if I have to rebuild the motor or trans? Or replace just about anything else? I don’t plan to have a mudder, I just want a cruiser
If you have any ideas for websites to find parts I’m all ears
Thanks
Great info nice jeep!
Surface rust is never a big deal. It can still be cleaned and treated. It's when the rust has eaten through, and the metal is starting to flake. Obviously, if there's a rust hole anywhere, that's a clear sign to stay away from that vehicle.
Great informative video. However, a leaking valve cover gasket is a simple do-it-yourself repair so by no means do I think it should be a deal breaker nor do I think any minor wear/tear items or things that need adjustment or are relatively inexpensive to repair/replace should be a reason not to buy a Jeep as long as they are taken into consideration when making an offer. You advised people not to buy a Jeep if they notice signs of a leaking valve cover gasket but then immediately state that it's an easy fix for less than $100. You also said people shouldn't buy a Jeep if it pulls to one side (needs front brakes or an alignment(?) = no biggie) but all of these minor issues can be used as points of negotiation to justify a lower offer. If the seller is reasonable and willing to take some money off it's worth moving forward, if not then I'd say walk away. The only time I'd recommend walking away from a Jeep is if there are major issues like troublesome engine noises (rod knocks, ticking, etc), burnt smelling oil, major leaks, odd drive train noises, problems shifting the transmission, major rust and general evidence of abuse or neglect.
Looking to buy a 1998 wrangler sport 4.0 manual with 175k. No major rust issues. Needs some things to get it road ready. It’s rough around the edges but the body is straight. Needs some fuel line work, it sat for about the last 7 years under a carport. It does start and run. Guy wants 3k. Should I buy it? Talk him down? Stay away?
Curious what the symptoms are on the fuel line?
Great video. Beautiful TJ Mine is the midnight blue one. I have a question. I’m getting code 174 and 171
Replaced bank one upstream O2S and code came back 174. Then replaced fuel pump. Still getting 171 and 174. I noticed that one of the ends of the Crank Case vent hose rubber fitting is cracked. Where can I find one if those ccv hose. I will appreciate any suggestions. I depend on that Jeep for my cancer treatment appointments. Is my baby since 2006 bought it brand new it looks great too I have taking good care of it. Thank you 🙏 in advanced
I had same issue on my ‘99. Replaced O2S + fuel pump as well. Did you ever figure this out?
Top 3 issues to look for, Frame, frame and finally frame.
*What Jeep early 2000s is better for highway? I know probably none, but still. Thank you*
Thanks for the video. I own an 04 Rubi TJ that was passed down and I would love to lift it and put an undercoat. The Jeep lived most of it's life in AZ and has very little rust. Now that it's back to it's original home NJ I worry about salt and water. It is stock as of now and about to break 100k miles. It sounds about ripe for a new suspension with Jersey potholes. Could anyone suggest a lift kit and/or trustworthy shop to do this? I can do basic repairs but I'm not about to mess with suspension. I still need it to be a daily driver but getting it dirty with snow and mud is just about my favorite thing.
I hope to be so fortunate that you will read my comment.
This weekend, I need to choose amongst the following:
2005 rubicon $21k 82k mls
2009 tj x $18.500k 70k mls
2010 tj bill hillbilly edition $22k 47k mls
2012 tj s asking $25k 82k mls
All lifted
I know there is a ton to consider but this is my first jeep so I’m -1 level
I will pull it flat behind my rv
It will be my vehicle around town and off road but mild because I’m new.
So I could add as I get more into it.
Recommendations please???!!! If not from you, any of you please.
I’m leaving to Utah for thanksgiving so I want to buy this weekend.
I still have to sell my car and scooter.
Thank you!!!
What did you end up buying?
@@hoody2141 2010 TJ now thinking of buying a 4 door rubicon.
@@HerSoulVacation Huh, a 2010 TJ??
You got a great looking Jeep. It's my understanding that there weren't adequate drain holes in the frame. Were you able to drill some drainage holes in yours? Still, great looking Jeep!
I did not. And I believe you're correct, that was the main issue - They would hold water.
That was the first mod I did on my 05 Rubi I purchased two years ago. 5/8" hole right behind the front lower control arm mounts and the same in front of the rear lower control arm mounts. I couldn't believe how much dirt came out of the frame! Now the frame gets "washed" every time the Jeep does! Add in a once-a-year rust converter treatment on the frame and mine is holding up well even up here in Salty Wisconsin. :)
@@kurtblackwell6214 Here in NZ we don't have to worry about salt on the roads - there isn't any.Trev New Zealand
I've had experience with cracked t cases but fairly uncommon
Like many have said, you got one of the most near brand new looking, or better, TJ! Keep up the great work and maintenance! My '04 Rubi is still stock and I've kept it in pretty good maintenance for the last 8 years.
I'm curious on which suspension lift did you get? 4" and 1" body kit to fit the 35s on yours? Did you also add pitman arm with Could I get the list like yours or similar to it? want to do it right where I wouldn't get the infamous wobble of death after =).
I’ve got a video that goes over everything super in-depth as far as the build list. But it’s a 4.5” suspension lift, no body lift. Upgraded track bar and beefed up Y-link steering, stock pitman arm
@@_everydayoffroad_ - thank you! Will review the other video too.
Who wired your rig? I'd worry as much about that as light rust what are all the looped red firewall wires?
2006 With automatic transmission, it’s gonna have a bad PCM. Thank Goodness for Wranglerfix
Sweet Jeep!
I have a 2005 jeep X4.0 pump brand new it has 18,000 miles on it been garage kept never been off-road if you’re interested in a good one hit me up.
Really nice looking jeep you got!
I have a 2002 Jeep Wrangler TJ I lifted it and now the four-wheel drive shifter will not come up for to be the problem
Nice looking truck, what's your front end setup?
Hey i just found a 1999 TJ, from the pictures i saw it had rust on the wheel covers it self, other than that i want more advice and extra knowledge on the jeep as a whole milage etc... thanks
Are there any transmissions to stay away from? It looks like there were several types.
Bought a Tj, clutch grab good, shifts really well. Just clutch is heavy. Replaced 15k miles ago by prior owner. any recs?
seen in the comments how much you paid for yours with 150k miles did that 150k worry you when buying? i know these 4.0s can get up to 300k if taken care of but in your opinion you think 150k is still high mileage when buying a tj? mine is a 02 and just hit 80k but i always want another TJ or maybe a YJ so as the years go by im wondering what will be too high of mileage for a jeep when i get to buying another one.
how did you clean the frame before you coated with the bed cover?
Side quesiton. How big lift and what tire size? Love the stance
Looking to buy one and the seller says it needs an alignment which I assume means it’s pulling to one side. With that said Do you recommend me passing on this one?
I don't own jeep right now but it's 4:03am I am watching this vidoe and it's satisfying 😌 👌 ☺️
But I love fishing I always wish to have jeep fo take veach the beach do I don't have to do a long walk but I am looking to by jeep wrangler like that on Facebook market I don't no nothing about jeep ...I watched the whole vidoe and is there any other pacific thing I should look for when purchasing it
And my price range is that 5,6
Should rust be a dealbreaker? The one I was want has some need the finder flairs? I think that’s what it’s called.
Body rust is more of an aesthetic matter. I would stay away from any frame rust
Looking at buying one with 207k miles, seems pretty clean and well maintained so far but what should I be concerned with primarily at that many miles? It’s a 2000 TJ 4.0 automatic.
Assuming a good visual inspection (no major rust) I would think 207k miles on a well maintained 4.0L would be fine. I have friends with 220-250k on their original motors and they are doing fine. With the automatic, I would think it should have already had the transmission rebuilt/replaced by that mileage. The auto transmissions usually require some major attention in the upper 100k’s.
With that many miles, you will have some leaks/squeaks, etc. As long as you are okay with replacing a gasket or seal here and there, you should be good to go in my opinion.
If it hasn't been flogged to death off-road & drives ok what he said.Dont pay too much & allow for a few minor things.Trev New Zealand