Hi all, next steps: improving the Earth point as several of you pointed out, and adding a trailer charging Anderson connector, as I am planning a 6' x 4' offroad trailer for our next adventure, so this battery will be moved into that trailer when we are towing.
Greetings Gerben. thanks for the video, really loved the reinforced hose protection for through and under the body ducting. Merit plugs should be the first point of contact for plug-in power devices just as you have done, you don't find cigarette socket plug-ins in emergency service vehicles as they do not provide secure positive contact.
Love this set up, very neat and proffesional, these methods can be applied in any situation, for me it is in my self build campervan, I think its a great investment buying the few tools required to do the job properly, and of course the money spent is from the savings you made from paying a "proffesional" to do the job, and you are ready for any alterations/additions without the expense, the tools will pay for themselves.. great video, and a very neat and safe job.. thank you.
Keep an eye on the maxi blade fuse holder under the bonnet, I've used those in the past but with the summer heat+ engine heat under the bonnet + charging current I've seen the plastic melt around the fuse. These days I use a manual reset circuit breaker.
I agree, Ive just had the same problem with my setup. After a very hot summer near Ceduna SA I found that the drop in voltage in my battery (7v) was caused by melting fuses. Its not that the wiring wasn't heavy enough its because the fuse HOLDER itself overheats and melts the fuse. I'm changing to 100amp midi fuses which are recommended for that type of setup.
Thanks for the video I have a 2017 Ranger PXII LXT & have been giving some consideration to this jiob. I already have a secondary battery installed & an Anderson wired through to next to my 12 pin trailer plug as well as an Anderson wired through to the ute / canopy section & at the moment I am manually charging it , I have been looking at a red arc solution but its so dam expensive, I might have to do it this way to start with & save up my $$ for the more expensive solution.
Hi Waykat Services I had a dual battery installation in 81 Landcruiser. Used solid state isolate between batteries but they never lasted and were damn expensive. I then used a Cole Hershey solenoid and a friend built me a 3 minute delay unit. This allowed the crank battery to charge before aux battery was connected. Also added a switch to assist if crank battery was drawn down and both batteries were needed to start. Never had a hassle with it and if it fails you can manually couple both batteries. The delay timer can be made to any length of time you desire. We used a programmable pick, but if you want 555 timer will do just as well. Hope this helps. Happy travels.
Thanks for posting this, it was really useful! Can I ask your feedback on how the charger unit, attached to the top of the batter box, is travelling? I am looking at these units, but I think the charger sitting on the top of the box they are just exposed and in the wrong spot to be whacked by something being taken in our out of the tray etc. Do you need to take any special care when loading items in your tray to avoid hitting it?
I haven’t read all the other comments, so apologies if this has already been mentioned, but when you say “Anderson” (eg 7:50) you sound exactly like agent Smith (Hugo Weaving) when he says “Mr Anderson” on The Matrix. In the remainder of the video you sound like Liam Neeson with a slight accent.
Good video. A few pointers though...Maxi fuses under the bonnet are not reliable for long term current flow so use midi fuses. As a general rule, ute tubs have a poor earth and you are better off running them from the main vehicle earth near the battery and then common it to the ute tub. Always test for voltage drop with a high load to get a true result. Also the Ranger & BT50 have a variable voltage alternator so you should use the ignition switch wire unless you get the dealer to turn off the smart alternator.
For 1k you should have got the KickAss 120A batt set up with the IDC25 already wired in with a 240v 12A smart charger as a bonus from Aus Direct on the sunny coast. I got one 2yrs ago n they're bloody brilliant
nice job the only things I wood do different is to run the hot wire thru a battery isolator and instead of going thru the cap I wood of come up thru the tail light into the bed . I don't like connecting the house battery / back battery to the start / main battery together because you might run both down together
Nope, the DC/DC charger prevents the main battery from being drained, that is the whole point of these Aussie dual battery DC/DC chargers: they are an isolator/voltage sensor as well. Next time I will run the wire through the cab, but using a firewall M10 bolt connector, bolted through: no tight loop on the wire, more secure, water tight.
@@GI-AUS true but you are getting power from the front battery to maintain the back battery when the engine is running instead of off the alternator that's why I use the battery isolator to keep the starter battery from getting over charged while charging the other battery. I have bin doing automotive wiring now for 25 years cars trucks tractor trailers with lift gates and more . aa far as running the power wire up from the tail light you wood fallow the tail light wire and come in to the bed either with a rubber grommet or a thru panel battery terminal connector
Great job mate. Need to do mine, so helps to see what others have sorted. Maybe you could show, mention the ratchet strap system you used? Thanks for putting it up!Cheers PP
All said, you've done a great job! More so on the battery box iteself and less so on the vehicle wiring. I totally agree with the other guy who said that the ground needs to be tested under load. I personally don't think it's a good connection because of the finish on the hardware, but testing will bear out the truth. Below I'll tell you some things you may never figure out on your own, it may help you in the future. I am the self proclaimed king of voltage drop, I calculate it and test it all the time. I used to be an electrician and before there were load meters available, I used to test a lot of my circuits by measuring the unloaded voltage, then applying an 80% load and checking the voltage again. This is a parallel voltage drop test. Big voltage drops mean high resistance, which sometimes cause fires. This is also a good way to test a car battery. Turn off your engine and turn on the lights for 5 seconds to remove the battery's surface charge, then wait a minute before measuring. If the battery is good and charged, you should read 12.6v or greater. Then measure the battery voltage again while your head lights are on (engine still off). If it drops dramatically, especially below 12v, the battery is definitely bad. For your system, I would drain your rear battery to 11v or so. Then with your car running, plug in your system and run one of your compressors, this should load the circuit well enough (compressor + battery charging). Now measure from your black terminal on your rear system to a jumper cable connected to the neg of your main battery. Anything over a volt difference is probably too much. That's a series voltage drop measurement. If this happens, it's probably the ground connection. You can also check the temperature of the connection (preferably using a non contact thermometer). High resistance in series with a high current load = high temperature. A degree C is nothing to worry about, but 3 or 4 degrees is probably too much. Imagine having a switch that closes a circuit, which electrically should be like the switch isn't there at all and the load is just hard wired. However, with high current in the circuit, you can measure across the terminals of the switch and read some voltage, maybe only millivolts. This is also a series voltage drop test and it's a way to ascertain the resistance and or the power loss within the connection. Volts/Amps = Ohms (resistance). More importantly, Volts x Amps = Watts (power). 1 Watt = 1 BTU of heat (assuming your country uses BTUs...). Let's say, the circuit is pulling 50A and you've measured a 1V drop across the switch (or whatever type of connection) that's 50 x1 = 50W. That means the switch should be ready to melt. However, a 1v drop when there's only 5A, is only 5W, which is obviously less heat, but the 50W example showed the switch had 0.02 Ohm of resistance and the 5W example showed the switch has a 0.2 Ohm resistance. All this to say, it's good to use the test to determine the internal resistance of the switch (or connection) using whatever current your'e using to test the circuit, then use that resistance to calculate the power dissipation at the circuit's full load amps. So, if the circuit is fused a 50A, but I tested it at 5A and the switch (or connection) showed a 0.2 Ohm resistance, then it's power dissipation at full load (50A) would be: 50A x 0.2 Ohms = 10V. 10V x 50A = 500W. That means huge huge issues. Hopefully you read the whole darn thing because I know you want to learn electricity. The math is too easy to skip, a little multiplication or division and you've got it nailed.
Nice neat and well protected job. I've a similar set up with one possibly essential change. When travelling I have the fridge etc running directly off the vehicle supply, not off the aux batt, because the charging algorithms of many of these chargers is based on a no draw basis. Check with Projector. I would stick another Anderson plug in the back from the vehicle supply to run stuff when driving. And fit a voltage sensitive relay under the bonnet, just downstream of the fuse, to preserve crank batt when you forget to swap plugs or pulling up for extended lunches etc. Just my thoughts 🤔 You can also inflate you boat directly off the car alternator when running so the aux batt remains full for other applications.
Hi Gerben, Is the pull handle on Anderson plug wider than the shell of the plug itself, if so, is it possible to have more than one plugged in at a time? The Anderson sockets are very close together mate.
Ben, the handles are the same width as the connectors but their T-shape allows you to pull them even if the connectors are really close together, like mine. So you can have all connectors with handles inserted and you can still pull them out. Yes, if I built one again I would space the plugs a bit further apart (dumb grin)
Thanks for the great video. I plan to do the same thing to my ranger. Just one question, the negative is not required to be connected to close the loop? Thanks
The negative goes through the chassis, the Main battery negative is also connected to the chassis, so that closes the loop. You can test the loop with a simple volt meter, that's what we did.
Why are you connecting an 8mm wire off of the battery to a 13mm wire? I believe this is backwards. Won't the 13mm wire transfer more current then the 8mm causing a greater load on the 8mm wire?
Hey dude, you don’t install switch or relay between the first and the second battery ? You plug before driving and unplug when you stop driving ? That a update you can have. Easy to do and convenient 😉.
All good and well but you have no isolation between batteries. When you run aux battery down your main battery follows suit. Then you have 2 flat batteries. You need so form of intelligent isolation controller. I have installed numerous of these with good results.
The Projecta IDC25 auto switches off charge from main battery @12.8V. There is a manual over ride ignition switch controlled wire that is recommended for smart alternators but I recommend that it be used as a fail safe for all vehicles. Projecta have also included an output wire that can be used to show that switching has occurred for in vehicle dash installation. No need for 2 isolators.
I have not connected the smart alternator wire/function, and in more than two years of hard use, I have not noticed any negative effect. It just works fine. (Before installation, I was advised by a person who should know to forget about the smart alternator - in this car - as it would not make any difference.)
Great video Gerber, am doing the same thing. Can you please tell me how you connected the fuse link to the main wire you ran to the back as I am having trouble finding an inline connector that is big enough for the size of the wire, cheers.
The inline fuse is crimped to the main wire running aft. I went to a good automotive parts store to get the correct size crimp connectors. I then used marine quality heat shrink w/glue to cover that connector, still working fine.
Great job. Did you decide to use 13mm2 wire because of the distance between the 2 batteries? I note the installation manual states that 8mm2 wire is required but that a larger cable size is required if distance exceeds 12m.
Awesome work mate. Was looking at doing something similar but on the projecta site it says for the dcdc charger to be wired to the ignition as well for a smart altinator... Did you do this or just +/- from the cranking battery? Cheers
Just a 13mm2 Positive from the battery (with a 50A fuse) and a short negative to the nearest bolt in the cargo tray for ground. It works 100% perfect, I did the Simpson desert a month after I shot this video, never even thought about my battery, it just worked.
@@GI-AUS you still need an ignition feed to the ignition input for best results. BT50 and Rangers have a smart alternator, once the vehicle battery is fully charged, the output drops to 12.2 volts and can cut the dcdc charger off. So if you're aux battery is quite low, it can sometimes not fully make a full charge.
@@jhanna85 Yeah, in reality it works just fine. The Projecta IDC25 charges the Aux from the Main battery, not from the Alternator (as you can see in my video). The Projecta IDC25 measures the voltage on the Main, if it is sufficiently high (ie: fully charged) it will start draining the Main to charge the Aux, all the while measuring that the Main does not drop too low in voltage. Then the Smart Alt kicks in again at full charge, charging the Main, and in consequence, the Aux as well. My Aux is always fully charged and we survived the Simpson desert quite comfortably, thank you.
@@GI-AUS yep taking the power from the battery and not the alternator is pretty common. But if you look at the negative post you'll find a connector on it. That is the smart alternator sensor. So once it measures the voltage and earth once the main battery is fully charged, you'll see the voltage of the alternator cut out and let the residual current in the battery start reducing to 12.2ish again. Which can sometimes trick the dcdc to thinking the alternator is off and turn off at the low threshold. We have seen it in a handful of mining vehicles we have built. Hence we always connect IGN for all smart charging vehicles. They do work fine. But do occasionally cut out.
Nice set up! Only concern is double check your high pressure hose, if it is rated for electrical use. I thought Electrical wires have specific rating as it has a higher melting point or it may contain chemicals that will self extinguish if it catches fire.
Bastos Reviewer Given he is using it for mechanical protection rather than electrical it shouldn’t be an issue.. the wire is already electrically protected by its own insulation. Insulated wires run through the walls of your house...
@@frankthomson7824 maybe I'm over thinking..... I only thought about it because I have experienced a wire catching fire but then quickly self extinguished within seconds. So my thought process was that if his wire caught fire with that hose as protective casing, his wires might not self extinguish properly and continue burning. I do like his set up and now getting ready to do a similar set up.
What size fuses did you use when connecting to the battery from the solar panel and aux battery? Can you please answer me as I think that I have bought the wrong size ware only 30amp fuses. Do I need fifty amp inline fuses?
Fuses are to protect the wire from over current, not the bit of kit attached to the other side. So you need to calculate your correct wire size first, based on length and expected current, then use the fuse that goes with that. Use a DC wire size calculator online.
The Anderson plugs used for solar charging, they're in parallel, with the single positive output connecting to the Projecta solar input wire? Then the Earth connected to the common earth of the box? I'm planning my install and I LOVE your battery box, I'm 100% stealing the entire set up as it's just so damn clever (and I'm not sorry). The three outputs, they just connect to the battery positive terminal and the negatives to the common earth?
@@GI-AUS at 6:25, for the parallel jumpers, what gauge wire is used and how did you get 2 wires connected to the single terminal contact? I plan to run 8 AWG cable from my main battery but maybe 10 AWG wire into a 6 AWG terminal, crimped?
Hi, that hose is in fact rated pressure and temperature resistant : This Kinetic PVC reinforced pressure hose is ideal for the transfer of water and non-corrosive liquids, air and other drainage uses. It has an operating temperature of 0 to 60 degrees and working pressure of 140psi, and is also suitable for use as a protective or insulating cover.
So far, bleeding zero! The two 125W folding glass panels I bought are way too big and heavy to bring camping. so I left them home during our Simpson desert trip. I have just yesterday decided to buy one or two 100W semi-flexible panels from eBay, for $119 each, and only weigh 2Kg each ;) Search "FLOUREON 100W SunPower semi-flexible" on eBay.
Don't want to be a stick in the mud but you should have used automotive corrugated sheathing for your cable protection as it's heat resistant in the engine bay and very strong in mechanical protection, your ground cable should be direct to a metal face not where it is to prevent any current over draw. Also, install a battery isolation relay to prevent your main battery from being over drawn so you can start the truck. Redarc sell one $150 - $180. I had one myself in my ute before I sold it.
Hi Scott, this is the specs of that hose: This Kinetic PVC reinforced pressure hose is ideal for the transfer of water and non-corrosive liquids, air and other drainage uses. It has an operating temperature of 0 to 60 degrees and working pressure of 140psi, and is also suitable for use as a protective or insulating cover.
this is the most informative video yet I have the exact box from Bunnings and dc to dc can and if please can i see how you wired the projector to the box please I can send you my email and due to the virus I'm out of work lost my position so I've decided to do this project any help will be great thank you.
That is the worst earth /grounding point. Should never ever have plastic and bolted in with your ground point. The heat in the circuit will make the plastic melt and hopefully not burn down.
What happens if the the earth point has a fault and heats up Your plastic tub liner sandwiched between your tie down point and tub catches fire You may be stupid (because constructive criticism offends you), anything else I can educate about
As an Electrician of over 30 years I think generally you have done a good job for somebody who is learning vehicle electrics. I have seen far worse You have used quality materials and components. Cable selection, routing and mechanical protection all seem adequate. I particularly like how you used air compressor hose as conduit. Far better than corrigated conduit normally used. I may even borrow that idea myself ;). I would advise sealing each end with silicone to prevent water/condensate settling in the tube. With the earth point my preference would be to reroute an earth out of the tub and secure it to the vehicles chassis. Earth faults are very common. I think you need to protect each of the output Anderson plugs also. Electrical protection is protect the cables not the appliances. A single 50a fuse protects the feed but you need protection for each circuit, just like your house has a main fuse the individual curcuit breakers fir each circuit. Currently if a fault occurs it will fry your entire system, including the 6.3m back to your battery. This could very well end up in loosing your vehicle to fire. My preference is for circuit breakers as it means you dont need to carry replacement fuses. As suggested in another comment I would protect each end of your main feed. Power can flow from your main battery but it can also backfeed from you auxiliary battery leaving 6,3m unprotected You mention you will be travelling in the outback. BT50 is a good reliable vehicle choice suitable to meduim off road duty (assuming you have 4x4). YOUR VEHICLE IS YOUR LIFE SUPPORT IN THE OUTBACK You need to ensure that it is safe to begin with A few simple modifications to an already good set up should provide peace of mind You seem to be at an age where the commitment of raising kids and work are no longer a priority and enjoying lifes pleasures is. Take the time to make sure things are done right so your NT trip is full of good trouble free memories. My feedback is with good intent. I hope you take it onboard for its merrit. I will happily assist with any questions you may have. FYI i used to be an avid 4x4 traveller, so yes I have set up and assisted with many dual battery set ups and seen the damage from bad set ups
Wayne Gveric I have a under bonnet dual battery system via a Redarc bcdc40 in a MY16 Mitsubishi Pajero. We have connections to a camper trailer batter via Anderson plug and a portable agm in a box in the back of the car for the fridge back up. I am finding that the camper and the portable box battery are not charging fully and was looking at installing a dc dc charger on the box and camper. Issues: I think the leads for the camper trailer and the portable battery come of the underbonnet auxiliary battery and do you earth the negative to the negative pole of the portable battery? Your thoughts.
Hi all, next steps: improving the Earth point as several of you pointed out, and adding a trailer charging Anderson connector, as I am planning a 6' x 4' offroad trailer for our next adventure, so this battery will be moved into that trailer when we are towing.
is it possible for you to make one of those portable battery boxes for me?
I will pay you. Please let me know, everywhere i look they are sold out
@@ivangomez3693 Hi, do you want to buy this box & battery? I am planning on making another one and this one may be for sale. Where are you based?
@@GI-AUS sorry for the late reply, but i would be interested in purchasing it.
I am in the USA Louisiana
Very impressive. So neat, so strong, so professional for someone who “wants to learn how to do it”!
Greetings Gerben. thanks for the video, really loved the reinforced hose protection for through and under the body ducting. Merit plugs should be the first point of contact for plug-in power devices just as you have done, you don't find cigarette socket plug-ins in emergency service vehicles as they do not provide secure positive contact.
Great auto DIY project! You got the tools and learnt the skills to prepare you for virtually anything.
Wonderful video, thanks.
On the big hole at the pick up back cabin, use a cable glad to hold down the penetrating cable will be perfect.
Love this set up, very neat and proffesional, these methods can be applied in any situation, for me it is in my self build campervan, I think its a great investment buying the few tools required to do the job properly, and of course the money spent is from the savings you made from paying a "proffesional" to do the job, and you are ready for any alterations/additions without the expense, the tools will pay for themselves.. great video, and a very neat and safe job.. thank you.
That's a great idea! Nice set up!
THANK YOU FOR YOUR DETAIL VIDEO
Keep an eye on the maxi blade fuse holder under the bonnet, I've used those in the past but with the summer heat+ engine heat under the bonnet + charging current I've seen the plastic melt around the fuse. These days I use a manual reset circuit breaker.
I agree, Ive just had the same problem with my setup. After a very hot summer near Ceduna SA I found that the drop in voltage in my battery (7v) was caused by melting fuses. Its not that the wiring wasn't heavy enough its because the fuse HOLDER itself overheats and melts the fuse. I'm changing to 100amp midi fuses which are recommended for that type of setup.
Really nice setup. Would love to know the wiring setup in the battery box!! Any chance you could send me a photo of how the earth's are hooked up?
Thanks for the video I have a 2017 Ranger PXII LXT & have been giving some consideration to this jiob.
I already have a secondary battery installed & an Anderson wired through to next to my 12 pin trailer plug as well as an Anderson wired through to the ute / canopy section & at the moment I am manually charging it , I have been looking at a red arc solution but its so dam expensive, I might have to do it this way to start with & save up my $$ for the more expensive solution.
Hi Waykat Services I had a dual battery installation in 81 Landcruiser. Used solid state isolate between batteries but they never lasted and were damn expensive. I then used a Cole Hershey solenoid and a friend built me a 3 minute delay unit. This allowed the crank battery to charge before aux battery was connected. Also added a switch to assist if crank battery was drawn down and both batteries were needed to start. Never had a hassle with it and if it fails you can manually couple both batteries. The delay timer can be made to any length of time you desire. We used a programmable pick, but if you want 555 timer will do just as well. Hope this helps. Happy travels.
Can you show me inside battery box?
Nice job!
Thanks for posting this, it was really useful! Can I ask your feedback on how the charger unit, attached to the top of the batter box, is travelling? I am looking at these units, but I think the charger sitting on the top of the box they are just exposed and in the wrong spot to be whacked by something being taken in our out of the tray etc. Do you need to take any special care when loading items in your tray to avoid hitting it?
Nice video mate.
I haven’t read all the other comments, so apologies if this has already been mentioned, but when you say “Anderson” (eg 7:50) you sound exactly like agent Smith (Hugo Weaving) when he says “Mr Anderson” on The Matrix. In the remainder of the video you sound like Liam Neeson with a slight accent.
Goed gedaan jongen :))
Good video. A few pointers though...Maxi fuses under the bonnet are not reliable for long term current flow so use midi fuses. As a general rule, ute tubs have a poor earth and you are better off running them from the main vehicle earth near the battery and then common it to the ute tub. Always test for voltage drop with a high load to get a true result. Also the Ranger & BT50 have a variable voltage alternator so you should use the ignition switch wire unless you get the dealer to turn off the smart alternator.
What a shame you didn’t watch the video where he clearly states HE DID TEST THE EARTH and there was no voltage drop across the circuit.
Great job =)
Very good, noting the comments below as well.
Just thought I would mention, when testing your earth point, you won't get any volt drop in your circuit unless you are drawing some current.
Best to test the negative with resistance. Put your meter in continuity. Great video
For 1k you should have got the KickAss 120A batt set up with the IDC25 already wired in with a 240v 12A smart charger as a bonus from Aus Direct on the sunny coast. I got one 2yrs ago n they're bloody brilliant
Nah, what's the fun in that?
Where did you connect the Blue Wire ' Ignition Wire ' as this car has a smart alternator
That has been helpful. Thanks
nice job the only things I wood do different is to run the hot wire thru a battery isolator and instead of going thru the cap I wood of come up thru the tail light into the bed . I don't like connecting the house battery / back battery to the start / main battery together because you might run both down together
Nope, the DC/DC charger prevents the main battery from being drained, that is the whole point of these Aussie dual battery DC/DC chargers: they are an isolator/voltage sensor as well. Next time I will run the wire through the cab, but using a firewall M10 bolt connector, bolted through: no tight loop on the wire, more secure, water tight.
@@GI-AUS true but you are getting power from the front battery to maintain the back battery when the engine is running instead of off the alternator that's why I use the battery isolator to keep the starter battery from getting over charged while charging the other battery. I have bin doing automotive wiring now for 25 years cars trucks tractor trailers with lift gates and more . aa far as running the power wire up from the tail light you wood fallow the tail light wire and come in to the bed either with a rubber grommet or a thru panel battery terminal connector
Great job mate. Need to do mine, so helps to see what others have sorted. Maybe you could show, mention the ratchet strap system you used? Thanks for putting it up!Cheers PP
I used this strap: www.juststraps2go.com.au/just-straps-50mm-marquee-ratchet-strap-1metre-c-w-loop/
Thanks G. That does look the ticket, a lot stronger than most. I'll pinch your ideas and put them to good use on my Ranger. Cheers G.@@GI-AUS
All said, you've done a great job! More so on the battery box iteself and less so on the vehicle wiring.
I totally agree with the other guy who said that the ground needs to be tested under load. I personally don't think it's a good connection because of the finish on the hardware, but testing will bear out the truth. Below I'll tell you some things you may never figure out on your own, it may help you in the future.
I am the self proclaimed king of voltage drop, I calculate it and test it all the time. I used to be an electrician and before there were load meters available, I used to test a lot of my circuits by measuring the unloaded voltage, then applying an 80% load and checking the voltage again. This is a parallel voltage drop test. Big voltage drops mean high resistance, which sometimes cause fires. This is also a good way to test a car battery. Turn off your engine and turn on the lights for 5 seconds to remove the battery's surface charge, then wait a minute before measuring. If the battery is good and charged, you should read 12.6v or greater. Then measure the battery voltage again while your head lights are on (engine still off). If it drops dramatically, especially below 12v, the battery is definitely bad.
For your system, I would drain your rear battery to 11v or so. Then with your car running, plug in your system and run one of your compressors, this should load the circuit well enough (compressor + battery charging). Now measure from your black terminal on your rear system to a jumper cable connected to the neg of your main battery. Anything over a volt difference is probably too much. That's a series voltage drop measurement. If this happens, it's probably the ground connection. You can also check the temperature of the connection (preferably using a non contact thermometer). High resistance in series with a high current load = high temperature. A degree C is nothing to worry about, but 3 or 4 degrees is probably too much.
Imagine having a switch that closes a circuit, which electrically should be like the switch isn't there at all and the load is just hard wired. However, with high current in the circuit, you can measure across the terminals of the switch and read some voltage, maybe only millivolts. This is also a series voltage drop test and it's a way to ascertain the resistance and or the power loss within the connection. Volts/Amps = Ohms (resistance). More importantly, Volts x Amps = Watts (power). 1 Watt = 1 BTU of heat (assuming your country uses BTUs...). Let's say, the circuit is pulling 50A and you've measured a 1V drop across the switch (or whatever type of connection) that's 50 x1 = 50W. That means the switch should be ready to melt. However, a 1v drop when there's only 5A, is only 5W, which is obviously less heat, but the 50W example showed the switch had 0.02 Ohm of resistance and the 5W example showed the switch has a 0.2 Ohm resistance. All this to say, it's good to use the test to determine the internal resistance of the switch (or connection) using whatever current your'e using to test the circuit, then use that resistance to calculate the power dissipation at the circuit's full load amps. So, if the circuit is fused a 50A, but I tested it at 5A and the switch (or connection) showed a 0.2 Ohm resistance, then it's power dissipation at full load (50A) would be:
50A x 0.2 Ohms = 10V. 10V x 50A = 500W. That means huge huge issues.
Hopefully you read the whole darn thing because I know you want to learn electricity. The math is too easy to skip, a little multiplication or division and you've got it nailed.
Hi buddy just wondering where should the ACC cable wring to, thanks, mine dc charger is on the whole time.
Looking good Gerben hoe lang ben jij al in Australia ??
have you changed your intercooler hoses to silicone ones yet
Nice neat and well protected job. I've a similar set up with one possibly essential change. When travelling I have the fridge etc running directly off the vehicle supply, not off the aux batt, because the charging algorithms of many of these chargers is based on a no draw basis. Check with Projector. I would stick another Anderson plug in the back from the vehicle supply to run stuff when driving. And fit a voltage sensitive relay under the bonnet, just downstream of the fuse, to preserve crank batt when you forget to swap plugs or pulling up for extended lunches etc. Just my thoughts 🤔 You can also inflate you boat directly off the car alternator when running so the aux batt remains full for other applications.
Thanks for the great video Gerben, could you please provide a link to where you purchased the bag of Anderson pins/posts.
Cheers Rob
andersonconnect.com.au
Cheers Mate
Ignition wire? where did you put wire that?
great vdo , love the accent , you sound like me ! lol
Hi Gerben, Is the pull handle on Anderson plug wider than the shell of the plug itself, if so, is it possible to have more than one plugged in at a time? The Anderson sockets are very close together mate.
Ben, the handles are the same width as the connectors but their T-shape allows you to pull them even if the connectors are really close together, like mine. So you can have all connectors with handles inserted and you can still pull them out. Yes, if I built one again I would space the plugs a bit further apart (dumb grin)
Good setup. Why did you start with the 8mm wire to the joiner, then cintinue with the 13mm wire?
Because the inline fuse comes with 8mm2. Wire diameter is for the length of the wire, so going to the 13mm2 after that is fine.
what protection has the main supply wire got when power is fed from aux battery back to main? both ends require fuse or breaker protection.
Uh, it doesn't? The Projecta DC25 prevents that from happening? And the fuse would still work...
Thanks for the great video. I plan to do the same thing to my ranger. Just one question, the negative is not required to be connected to close the loop? Thanks
The negative goes through the chassis, the Main battery negative is also connected to the chassis, so that closes the loop. You can test the loop with a simple volt meter, that's what we did.
@@GI-AUS Thanks heaps for the info and kind reply. Much appreciate it
Just to share I just did with my ranger, this video really helps.
Why are you connecting an 8mm wire off of the battery to a 13mm wire? I believe this is backwards. Won't the 13mm wire transfer more current then the 8mm causing a greater load on the 8mm wire?
Hey dude, you don’t install switch or relay between the first and the second battery ?
You plug before driving and unplug when you stop driving ?
That a update you can have. Easy to do and convenient 😉.
not necessary, the Charger is the isolator switch as well/
All good and well but you have no isolation between batteries. When you run aux battery down your main battery follows suit. Then you have 2 flat batteries. You need so form of intelligent isolation controller. I have installed numerous of these with good results.
The Projecta IDC25 auto switches off charge from main battery @12.8V. There is a manual over ride ignition switch controlled wire that is recommended for smart alternators but I recommend that it be used as a fail safe for all vehicles. Projecta have also included an output wire that can be used to show that switching has occurred for in vehicle dash installation. No need for 2 isolators.
No worries thanks.
Does the smart alternator regarding alternating charge have any negative effect on the dcdc charger?
I have not connected the smart alternator wire/function, and in more than two years of hard use, I have not noticed any negative effect. It just works fine. (Before installation, I was advised by a person who should know to forget about the smart alternator - in this car - as it would not make any difference.)
Would have used a MDI 80amp fuse right by ur main / crank battery 🔋
Great video Gerber, am doing the same thing. Can you please tell me how you connected the fuse link to the main wire you ran to the back as I am having trouble finding an inline connector that is big enough for the size of the wire, cheers.
The inline fuse is crimped to the main wire running aft. I went to a good automotive parts store to get the correct size crimp connectors. I then used marine quality heat shrink w/glue to cover that connector, still working fine.
Thank you very much Gerben, much appreciated.
did you do a video on how you build the battery box??
No I did not. Maybe I should, it is quite interesting under the cover of that battery box.
Great job. Did you decide to use 13mm2 wire because of the distance between the 2 batteries? I note the installation manual states that 8mm2 wire is required but that a larger cable size is required if distance exceeds 12m.
Bigger is better: less voltage loss, less heat buildup, so might as well, not much cost difference.
Gerben Van Duyl thanks
Awesome work mate. Was looking at doing something similar but on the projecta site it says for the dcdc charger to be wired to the ignition as well for a smart altinator... Did you do this or just +/- from the cranking battery?
Cheers
Just a 13mm2 Positive from the battery (with a 50A fuse) and a short negative to the nearest bolt in the cargo tray for ground. It works 100% perfect, I did the Simpson desert a month after I shot this video, never even thought about my battery, it just worked.
@@GI-AUS you still need an ignition feed to the ignition input for best results. BT50 and Rangers have a smart alternator, once the vehicle battery is fully charged, the output drops to 12.2 volts and can cut the dcdc charger off.
So if you're aux battery is quite low, it can sometimes not fully make a full charge.
@@jhanna85 Yeah, in reality it works just fine. The Projecta IDC25 charges the Aux from the Main battery, not from the Alternator (as you can see in my video). The Projecta IDC25 measures the voltage on the Main, if it is sufficiently high (ie: fully charged) it will start draining the Main to charge the Aux, all the while measuring that the Main does not drop too low in voltage. Then the Smart Alt kicks in again at full charge, charging the Main, and in consequence, the Aux as well. My Aux is always fully charged and we survived the Simpson desert quite comfortably, thank you.
@@GI-AUS yep taking the power from the battery and not the alternator is pretty common. But if you look at the negative post you'll find a connector on it. That is the smart alternator sensor. So once it measures the voltage and earth once the main battery is fully charged, you'll see the voltage of the alternator cut out and let the residual current in the battery start reducing to 12.2ish again. Which can sometimes trick the dcdc to thinking the alternator is off and turn off at the low threshold. We have seen it in a handful of mining vehicles we have built. Hence we always connect IGN for all smart charging vehicles.
They do work fine. But do occasionally cut out.
BT50 do not have a Low Voltage alternator system, they are a "smart alternator" but do not run on low voltage so a ign wire is not required
Nice set up!
Only concern is double check your high pressure hose, if it is rated for electrical use. I thought Electrical wires have specific rating as it has a higher melting point or it may contain chemicals that will self extinguish if it catches fire.
Bastos Reviewer Given he is using it for mechanical protection rather than electrical it shouldn’t be an issue.. the wire is already electrically protected by its own insulation.
Insulated wires run through the walls of your house...
@@frankthomson7824 maybe I'm over thinking..... I only thought about it because I have experienced a wire catching fire but then quickly self extinguished within seconds.
So my thought process was that if his wire caught fire with that hose as protective casing, his wires might not self extinguish properly and continue burning.
I do like his set up and now getting ready to do a similar set up.
Bastos Reviewer yes.. very important to fuse it correctly for that reason..or even better a circuit breaker
What size fuses did you use when connecting to the battery from the solar panel and aux battery? Can you please answer me as I think that I have bought the wrong size ware only 30amp fuses. Do I need fifty amp inline fuses?
Fuses are to protect the wire from over current, not the bit of kit attached to the other side. So you need to calculate your correct wire size first, based on length and expected current, then use the fuse that goes with that. Use a DC wire size calculator online.
The Anderson plugs used for solar charging, they're in parallel, with the single positive output connecting to the Projecta solar input wire? Then the Earth connected to the common earth of the box?
I'm planning my install and I LOVE your battery box, I'm 100% stealing the entire set up as it's just so damn clever (and I'm not sorry). The three outputs, they just connect to the battery positive terminal and the negatives to the common earth?
I'll do a follow up video on the inside of the box soon, to show all the wiring.
@@GI-AUS that would be awesome, I've subbed 😊
@@GI-AUS at 6:25, for the parallel jumpers, what gauge wire is used and how did you get 2 wires connected to the single terminal contact? I plan to run 8 AWG cable from my main battery but maybe 10 AWG wire into a 6 AWG terminal, crimped?
Handig een auto die hoog op de wielen staat en slim gedaan de tuinslang als bescherming voor de elektra draad.
Hi, that hose is in fact rated pressure and temperature resistant : This Kinetic PVC reinforced pressure hose is ideal for the transfer of water and non-corrosive liquids, air and other drainage uses. It has an operating temperature of 0 to 60 degrees and working pressure of 140psi, and is also suitable for use as a protective or insulating cover.
Mooi. Vooral met het Hollandse accent. Ik ga het proberen op m'n Ranger
Did you connect the ignition wire and if where.
Fuse 27
How has your Solar current throughput been??
Has the IDC25 with its internal MPPT regulator been providing close to panel rated output?
So far, bleeding zero! The two 125W folding glass panels I bought are way too big and heavy to bring camping. so I left them home during our Simpson desert trip. I have just yesterday decided to buy one or two 100W semi-flexible panels from eBay, for $119 each, and only weigh 2Kg each ;) Search "FLOUREON 100W SunPower semi-flexible" on eBay.
I would like to know also about the solar side of the charger..cheers
Don't want to be a stick in the mud but you should have used automotive corrugated sheathing for your cable protection as it's heat resistant in the engine bay and very strong in mechanical protection, your ground cable should be direct to a metal face not where it is to prevent any current over draw. Also, install a battery isolation relay to prevent your main battery from being over drawn so you can start the truck. Redarc sell one $150 - $180. I had one myself in my ute before I sold it.
Hi Scott, this is the specs of that hose: This Kinetic PVC reinforced pressure hose is ideal for the transfer of water and non-corrosive liquids, air and other drainage uses. It has an operating temperature of 0 to 60 degrees and working pressure of 140psi, and is also suitable for use as a protective or insulating cover.
this is the most informative video yet I have the exact box from Bunnings and dc to dc can and if please can i see how you wired the projector to the box please I can send you my email and due to the virus I'm out of work lost my position so I've decided to do this project any help will be great thank you.
Literally in the same situation I’d love to see how it’s all put together ,,
That is the worst earth /grounding point. Should never ever have plastic and bolted in with your ground point. The heat in the circuit will make the plastic melt and hopefully not burn down.
Nothing buddy I already know everything. ...... that's why I pointed out what looked like a real stupid job.
What happens if the the earth point has a fault and heats up
Your plastic tub liner sandwiched between your tie down point and tub catches fire
You may be stupid (because constructive criticism offends you), anything else I can educate about
As an Electrician of over 30 years I think generally you have done a good job for somebody who is learning vehicle electrics.
I have seen far worse
You have used quality materials and components. Cable selection, routing and mechanical protection all seem adequate. I particularly like how you used air compressor hose as conduit. Far better than corrigated conduit normally used. I may even borrow that idea myself ;). I would advise sealing each end with silicone to prevent water/condensate settling in the tube.
With the earth point my preference would be to reroute an earth out of the tub and secure it to the vehicles chassis. Earth faults are very common.
I think you need to protect each of the output Anderson plugs also. Electrical protection is protect the cables not the appliances. A single 50a fuse protects the feed but you need protection for each circuit, just like your house has a main fuse the individual curcuit breakers fir each circuit. Currently if a fault occurs it will fry your entire system, including the 6.3m back to your battery. This could very well end up in loosing your vehicle to fire.
My preference is for circuit breakers as it means you dont need to carry replacement fuses.
As suggested in another comment I would protect each end of your main feed. Power can flow from your main battery but it can also backfeed from you auxiliary battery leaving 6,3m unprotected
You mention you will be travelling in the outback. BT50 is a good reliable vehicle choice suitable to meduim off road duty (assuming you have 4x4).
YOUR VEHICLE IS YOUR LIFE SUPPORT IN THE OUTBACK
You need to ensure that it is safe to begin with
A few simple modifications to an already good set up should provide peace of mind
You seem to be at an age where the commitment of raising kids and work are no longer a priority and enjoying lifes pleasures is.
Take the time to make sure things are done right so your NT trip is full of good trouble free memories.
My feedback is with good intent. I hope you take it onboard for its merrit. I will happily assist with any questions you may have.
FYI i used to be an avid 4x4 traveller, so yes I have set up and assisted with many dual battery set ups and seen the damage from bad set ups
Wayne Gveric I have a under bonnet dual battery system via a Redarc bcdc40 in a MY16 Mitsubishi Pajero. We have connections to a camper trailer batter via Anderson plug and a portable agm in a box in the back of the car for the fridge back up. I am finding that the camper and the portable box battery are not charging fully and was looking at installing a dc dc charger on the box and camper. Issues: I think the leads for the camper trailer and the portable battery come of the underbonnet auxiliary battery and do you earth the negative to the negative pole of the portable battery? Your thoughts.