I bought one about 9 months ago and like it even though I needed to adapt it's use. I mounted the unit in a round deep fryer basket with it being supported by 2 rods passed through the top of the basket. This allows me to anneal ~100 308Win brass at a time. The other thing was to mount the torch with a flexible hose supplying the gas. Other than these 2 things the compact size of this unit is great as I'm already planning for retirement on the road and need to down-size a lot. I have other annealing machines that work but they are way to large for what I'm planning.
I know this is an older video but, I'm guessing the motor is a 12V motor and not a 120V since the power receptacle is a converter plug receptacle. Just curious because I'd like my power cord to be hardwired. This would be tricky with this unless you installed an internal converter to wire up to.
@@flooded3456 Thanks for the reply. It is actually 12V DC motor. I found the info on the manufacturer website. It does plug in to AC outlet, but your cord has a built in DC converter (the black box on your charger cord.). Most everything that has one of these type plugs has one. The black box will show in Input 120V AC and an output 9V DC, 12V DC, 24V DC, etc. I would highly recommend checking the DC output voltage on your charger before connecting to the annealer. If it is too high, it should actually run the motors faster than design, but regardless, you could burn up your motor and components quickly if the DC output is higher or lower than the actual motor voltage rating.
@@redneckflyfisherman4240 I have close to 10,000 cases annealed. When I orchard this I was this to use a computer power cord which is what I did . No issues.
AGS makes some nice stuff! I'd still rather use the Annealeez, allows for bulk loading vs hand feeding each case. I really don't know why anyone should buy the induction unit's. $1200 just to sit there and anneal one piece at a time? Plus the added time. I just want to load a bunch of cases and hit go.
One could adapt an auto case feeder to this, similar to the Amp. But as you stated getting into an Annealer for so much $ just isn't with it to me at this stage in my reloading. For some it makes sense. Depends on volume.
Great video, was just looking at one of these. They do sell a riser for a 2.0 version. The 3.0 version is made with a higher base and comes with a power supply cord I believe. Regardless...good review...direct and too the point. One question...how do you determine length of time to heat? 5 seconds, 7....10?
The newest versions also have a LED screen instead of the analogue like mine. He definately added great features. As far as how long... Use tempelac I just went to the flange protruding from the case mouth turned a certain color. With my dual set up For small rifle it was around 4 seconds. Medium to large rifle around 6-8 seconds. You won't regret this annealer. It does what any flame annealer out there does for a lot less$
Bliksem, I like the idea of dropping the cases into the fryer. I think I will fill mine with water to arrest the warming of the case just to be sure I don’t soften the base at all. I always wet tumble after annealing prior to full-length resizing so wet brass doesn’t bother me at all. Nice product and review!
I know nothing about brass annealing or quenching metal but doesn’t dropping hot brass immediately after annealing into water quenches and hardens the brass back up?
As long as you don't get carried with the heat, quenching is unnecessary. You just have to get the temperature and position of the flame dialed in just right and you'll have no worries about softening the body or web of your brass.
Beat me to a review! 😁 Great job and I am liking mine thus far. I also had to mount mine higher but luckily didn't have any issues with the wiring or screws stripping out. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I also discovered some cases are in between supplied bushing sizes, and need some extra attention. Sometimes they won't spin an the flame contacts the same area continuously. I talked to Stefan and he may offer some special sizes in the future.
Like your review thanks for info. By the way we share 3 hobbies shooting, reloading, and RC aircraft. Like your airplane collection. I like warbirds from WWII myself.
It seems to have shoddy QC and poor design such that you had to modify it three times. Add to that with it not even coming with a power supply? Then, you have to feed cases one at a time. Thanks, but I'm much happier with my Annealeez, which auto-feeds and needs no modifications.
thank you for your comment - this was three years ago, at our beginnings. I assure you that we have improved significantly. and yes, we offer it with power supply now.
Thanks for the video! I have been researching annealing machines and the different processes. This will probably be the one that I will purchase. It appears that they took care of the height issue though you do have to purchase a riser kit at a price of $21.99. I was giving much consideration to a Bench Source Vertex which is similar and perhaps a bit nicer, but at $619.00 I cannot justify the extra money after seeing the AGS.
I too bought one of these in November. the only issue for me was the height but i had the fab shop at work make an aluminium bracket to raise mine up about 2.5 inch good to go. put a bread tin under it to catch the hot brass. i do think i will be upgrading the torch holder as i will be changing to a better torch with a hose off a 20# propane tank.
I clean, then anneal, then start the brass trimming and sizing process. If I don't clean and anneal first it just burns crud onto the case for harder cleaning.
Trim first (if needed), anneal, then tumble, then size, assuming that you don't like the look of annealed brass, although annealed brass that still has the telltale silvery neck and shoulder fired in a rifle is perfectly okay, as the billions of rounds of military ammo so fired have proven.
Why not replace the smooth post for the propane nozzle with a bolt of similar length and diameter? Then you could just raise and lower a nut on the bolt to adjust the flame height, instead of having to cut different length shim for different length cases! IMO 😎
Flooded .......nice! I just ordered mine. 😁 I couldn’t find it on Stefans website, how many sets of bushing come with the unit? He says from .223 to .338 LM.
I started shooting competition. I now Anneal around 100 brass a week and after comps closer to 350. This annealer was great but I am all automated now with Amp annealer and Dillon case feeder set up.
@@flooded3456 so you’re “eyeballing” it and “going by feel”? All the rest of y’all watching this should know that’s not a reliable way of annealing brass.
If you are reusing brass for reloading you are firing the case then sizing it back down then firing then sizing it back down. Brass is a soft metallic so working it over and over makes it hard and brittle. If you took a piece of brass and bent it over and over it would eventually break. Annealing it will bring the brass back to its normal state when it was new so you can fire it and resize it a lot. It basically turns the case back to new. It does a lot of other things to help you make percision reloads but that’s the basic. It’s important to just anneal the neck and shoulder. There are many good videos on annealing. Primal rights does a good video. It sounds easy but to do it right you have to hit a temperature range so your not over annealing or under annealing. I anneal my percision Rifle brass after every firing. It’s part of my reloading sequence. But you could get away with every other or 3rd firing.
Excellent! WOW $230! Based on Anneal Made Perfect research, annealing does not start until temperature is above 660F. Tempilaq can be used as a threshold temperature indicator when setting timing. Annealing Made Perfect anneals a .243 case to 1000F in 3.4 seconds (and induction annealer). I use an arbor press with a dial gauge and LE Wilson seater and see a big difference in terms of consistent bullet seating pressure after annealing the case necks.
I bought one about 9 months ago and like it even though I needed to adapt it's use.
I mounted the unit in a round deep fryer basket with it being supported by 2 rods passed through the top of the basket. This allows me to anneal ~100 308Win brass at a time.
The other thing was to mount the torch with a flexible hose supplying the gas.
Other than these 2 things the compact size of this unit is great as I'm already planning for retirement on the road and need to down-size a lot. I have other annealing machines that work but they are way to large for what I'm planning.
HAHAHA Jislaaik I love your username. lol
Can you show us a picture of your setup? Sounds like a good idea.
You have/had the pan positioned incorrectly. The tall piece on the pan goes under the hole to deflect the case coming down.
I know this is an older video but, I'm guessing the motor is a 12V motor and not a 120V since the power receptacle is a converter plug receptacle. Just curious because I'd like my power cord to be hardwired. This would be tricky with this unless you installed an internal converter to wire up to.
It is AC
@@flooded3456 Thanks for the reply. It is actually 12V DC motor. I found the info on the manufacturer website. It does plug in to AC outlet, but your cord has a built in DC converter (the black box on your charger cord.). Most everything that has one of these type plugs has one. The black box will show in Input 120V AC and an output 9V DC, 12V DC, 24V DC, etc. I would highly recommend checking the DC output voltage on your charger before connecting to the annealer. If it is too high, it should actually run the motors faster than design, but regardless, you could burn up your motor and components quickly if the DC output is higher or lower than the actual motor voltage rating.
@@redneckflyfisherman4240 I have close to 10,000 cases annealed. When I orchard this I was this to use a computer power cord which is what I did . No issues.
mine is on the way. Thanks for the tips and tricks.
I love your idea regarding the tube shim... genius! Great review.
Very good review, genius idea with those tube shims. Where can you buy such shims?
I don't remember where they came from.
I had them laying around so utilized them.
Thank you for the review, i will see if they’ve addressed any of the issues . 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
AGS makes some nice stuff! I'd still rather use the Annealeez, allows for bulk loading vs hand feeding each case. I really don't know why anyone should buy the induction unit's. $1200 just to sit there and anneal one piece at a time? Plus the added time. I just want to load a bunch of cases and hit go.
One could adapt an auto case feeder to this, similar to the Amp. But as you stated getting into an Annealer for so much $ just isn't with it to me at this stage in my reloading. For some it makes sense. Depends on volume.
Great video, was just looking at one of these. They do sell a riser for a 2.0 version. The 3.0 version is made with a higher base and comes with a power supply cord I believe. Regardless...good review...direct and too the point. One question...how do you determine length of time to heat? 5 seconds, 7....10?
The newest versions also have a LED screen instead of the analogue like mine.
He definately added great features.
As far as how long...
Use tempelac
I just went to the flange protruding from the case mouth turned a certain color. With my dual set up For small rifle it was around 4 seconds. Medium to large rifle around 6-8 seconds.
You won't regret this annealer.
It does what any flame annealer out there does for a lot less$
Wow this is going to be my first annealer !
If i remember correctly my Benchsource was around $500 when i bought it from Buffalo Arms but that was a while back
Bliksem, I like the idea of dropping the cases into the fryer. I think I will fill mine with water to arrest the warming of the case just to be sure I don’t soften the base at all. I always wet tumble after annealing prior to full-length resizing so wet brass doesn’t bother me at all. Nice product and review!
I know nothing about brass annealing or quenching metal but doesn’t dropping hot brass immediately after annealing into water quenches and hardens the brass back up?
@@Loojmemhav No brass is not affected at all by water quenching!
As long as you don't get carried with the heat, quenching is unnecessary.
You just have to get the temperature and position of the flame dialed in just right and you'll have no worries about softening the body or web of your brass.
just ordered mine. really great review. Thank for taking the time to show us your mods.
Just got mine based on your review. I'm pleased thanks.
Beat me to a review! 😁 Great job and I am liking mine thus far. I also had to mount mine higher but luckily didn't have any issues with the wiring or screws stripping out. Thanks for sharing your experience!
I also discovered some cases are in between supplied bushing sizes, and need some extra attention. Sometimes they won't spin an the flame contacts the same area continuously. I talked to Stefan and he may offer some special sizes in the future.
Like your review thanks for info. By the way we share 3 hobbies shooting, reloading, and RC aircraft. Like your airplane collection. I like warbirds from WWII myself.
Wow, thats cool. Glad the review helped, I hope...
@@flooded3456 yes it helped a lot actually I'm ordering one.
Duel torches got my .223 down to 3 seconds , have to lift mine piles up too quick , good video !
amazing how fast it sneaks the 223 and yes they pile up quickly.
Where can I buy one ? What is the phone number there ?
It seems to have shoddy QC and poor design such that you had to modify it three times.
Add to that with it not even coming with a power supply?
Then, you have to feed cases one at a time.
Thanks, but I'm much happier with my Annealeez, which auto-feeds and needs no modifications.
thank you for your comment - this was three years ago, at our beginnings. I assure you that we have improved significantly. and yes, we offer it with power supply now.
Thanks for the video! I have been researching annealing machines and the different processes. This will probably be the one that I will purchase. It appears that they took care of the height issue though you do have to purchase a riser kit at a price of $21.99. I was giving much consideration to a Bench Source Vertex which is similar and perhaps a bit nicer, but at $619.00 I cannot justify the extra money after seeing the AGS.
there are many ways to elevate it on your own for free. either way is been a great annealer and worth the money
A nice annealer .
This has done over 4000 cases for me so far . It is working the exact same now as on the first one I did. And for $200 or so dollars? Can't beat that.
Kudos on the shim idea. Brilliant. Waiting on my V3.0 to arrive.
I too bought one of these in November. the only issue for me was the height but i had the fab shop at work make an aluminium bracket to raise mine up about 2.5 inch good to go. put a bread tin under it to catch the hot brass. i do think i will be upgrading the torch holder as i will be changing to a better torch with a hose off a 20# propane tank.
I had a buddy 3d print me another set and now I have dual Torch set at up
I use a cookie sheet underneath it.
@@flooded3456 could you show us the double torch setup? Are you still liking the annealer?
@@jdrollason I am in AZ working an my annealer is in Utah.
@@jdrollason I posted a short vid on my channel of the dual head modification. Yes, 4000 cases an still like the annealer.
how do you know if the brass has been heated enough and not too much ?
Tempilaq
Nice setup 👍 A larger propane tank may give you a more stable gas pressure.
When do you anneal? before sizing or after? before cleaning brass or after? before trimming or after?? Thank you for the info.
I clean, then anneal, then start the brass trimming and sizing process. If I don't clean and anneal first it just burns crud onto the case for harder cleaning.
Awesome! Thank you! I was thinking of getting one soon but don't know much about annealing.
Trim first (if needed), anneal, then tumble, then size, assuming that you don't like the look of annealed brass, although annealed brass that still has the telltale silvery neck and shoulder fired in a rifle is perfectly okay, as the billions of rounds of military ammo so fired have proven.
Who did you order it from
AGS Custom annealer
Why not replace the smooth post for the propane nozzle with a bolt of similar length and diameter? Then you could just raise and lower a nut on the bolt to adjust the flame height, instead of having to cut different length shim for different length cases! IMO 😎
Already did that. Lol
Flooded .......nice! I just ordered mine. 😁 I couldn’t find it on Stefans website, how many sets of bushing come with the unit? He says from .223 to .338 LM.
@@user-ob7mt5ht2u 2 sets but they cover most case sizes other than wildcat type variables
Flooded ......cool. Thanks.
Still like it?
I started shooting competition. I now Anneal around 100 brass a week and after comps closer to 350.
This annealer was great but I am all automated now with Amp annealer and Dillon case feeder set up.
What is the ID & OD of your tube for the torch height? Waiting for one to come and want to get the materials needed. Thanks for a great video.
This is more a question who did you purchase it from
How did you determine the dwell time for those cases? Seems pretty rando. Do you have any idea what temp they reach with that setup?
Time is determined by what yields the most consistency for resizing consistency results
@@flooded3456 so you’re “eyeballing” it and “going by feel”?
All the rest of y’all watching this should know that’s not a reliable way of annealing brass.
How do you know what temp your annealing to.
Tempilaq and experience with each brand of brass I use.
What torch is that?
Just a cheap one from Ace Hardware or Amazon
What voltage does it use?
110
What's the purpose of annealing brass?
see my reply to JB
If you are reusing brass for reloading you are firing the case then sizing it back down then firing then sizing it back down. Brass is a soft metallic so working it over and over makes it hard and brittle. If you took a piece of brass and bent it over and over it would eventually break. Annealing it will bring the brass back to its normal state when it was new so you can fire it and resize it a lot. It basically turns the case back to new. It does a lot of other things to help you make percision reloads but that’s the basic. It’s important to just anneal the neck and shoulder. There are many good videos on annealing. Primal rights does a good video. It sounds easy but to do it right you have to hit a temperature range so your not over annealing or under annealing. I anneal my percision Rifle brass after every firing. It’s part of my reloading sequence. But you could get away with every other or 3rd firing.
Excellent! WOW $230!
Based on Anneal Made Perfect research, annealing does not start until temperature is above 660F. Tempilaq can be used as a threshold temperature indicator when setting timing. Annealing Made Perfect anneals a .243 case to 1000F in 3.4 seconds (and induction annealer). I use an arbor press with a dial gauge and LE Wilson seater and see a big difference in terms of consistent bullet seating pressure after annealing the case necks.
For sure templac is ideal to learn that setting or look if particular brass, as some brass heats easier than others