The series does abruptly end. We had 2 months of flooding and I am way behind on projects. Filming has been a struggle. The Chris should return this fall/winter.
Last week was a roller coaster for sure. Having to backtrack really sucked but Im glad I did. I dont have much recorded for next week yet, but it should be impressive!
I used an ultra-light weave glass that didn't show. I also used West Systems epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol . I still had to do lots of sanding and polishing to achieve a smooth finish
I will have to look into the light weight fiberglass.. I have experience with West Systems, but just don’t have the cash to keep it on hand right now. Its great stuff!
For the sake of meeting my New Years Resolution, putting out a video every week for a year, I have been making budget-friendly decisions. …they don’t always pay off! I am going to be using an epoxy flood coat. So far, the sample pieces have been turning out much nicer. Though, it is taking twice as long.
Noted! Luckily I was able to peel the fiberglass easy enough and never felt the need to use the acetone. I sure am glad I didn’t find that out the hard way!
A follow up,...there is no need to coat the out side of the boat with resin. A good quality varnish is adequate. R/C boats don't stay in the water very long, not like real boats.
Google poly resign it will not cure completely in air , without a wax additive or pva, something to seal off the air, I have built a number of full size boats using poly and when I started 20 years ago I found out the way you are. Epoxy will cure but poly wont
Good for you you didn't give up
The series does abruptly end. We had 2 months of flooding and I am way behind on projects. Filming has been a struggle. The Chris should return this fall/winter.
I'm happy you decided to keep working on this and not settling for something that you are unhappy with. 🤞🤞🤞
Last week was a roller coaster for sure. Having to backtrack really sucked but Im glad I did. I dont have much recorded for next week yet, but it should be impressive!
I used an ultra-light weave glass that didn't show. I also used West Systems epoxy thinned with denatured alcohol . I still had to do lots of sanding and polishing to achieve a smooth finish
I will have to look into the light weight fiberglass.. I have experience with West Systems, but just don’t have the cash to keep it on hand right now. Its great stuff!
Z-poxy makes a good finishing system. Easy to sand also.
I'm surprised you went with polyester...I've had problems with it before. I recommend epoxy.
For the sake of meeting my New Years Resolution, putting out a video every week for a year, I have been making budget-friendly decisions. …they don’t always pay off!
I am going to be using an epoxy flood coat. So far, the sample pieces have been turning out much nicer. Though, it is taking twice as long.
Warning! Acetone will melt the plastic stripping between the planking! Ask me how I know. Just sand the resin off the deck.
Noted! Luckily I was able to peel the fiberglass easy enough and never felt the need to use the acetone.
I sure am glad I didn’t find that out the hard way!
A follow up,...there is no need to coat the out side of the boat with resin. A good quality varnish is adequate. R/C boats don't stay in the water very long, not like real boats.
Noted, but I have started the process of epoxying the entire hull. Second coat goes on tonight.
-I cannot wait to move on to electronics…
Except you will see every flaw in the planking in 6 months when everything starts to shrink.
Polyester resin will NOT DRY unless you add wax or PVA after coating, just a fyi
I used the Bondo brand poly resin with MKEP as the catylist.
Google poly resign it will not cure completely in air , without a wax additive or pva, something to seal off the air, I have built a number of full size boats using poly and when I started 20 years ago I found out the way you are. Epoxy will cure but poly wont
The stuff he's using is pre waxed , he needs the pink resin pre waxed green is no good for red mahogany