A. ABS will dissolve in acetone...get a jar...drop in some ABS filament (or ABS support/failed prints), dump in some acetone, put on the lid...wait 20~ min...it will create a slurry/paste of ABS/acetone...use that to glue ABS parts together...best glue for those types of prints bar none (just wait a little for the acetone to evaporate and you literally have a solid piece) B. ABS WILL degrade in the sunlight...paint the blades in UV resistant paint or they will get brittle C. That printer is stupid fast! Awesome! Keep em coming!!!!
ASA is a bit pricier but seems like a way better choice here - stronger adhesion, less prone to warping, 10x the UV resistance, and even though it prints hotter it's still well within the X-Max 3's temperature range.
VAWT are not as efficient as HAWT but at small scale they are simpler and more convinient since they can use wind from almost any direction without needing extra components. The drag design is the less efficient of all of them but usually seems to spin faster on lower wind speed due to the extra material compared to the lift design
But they still need sizes of meters times meters to produce anything useful. Something less than 5 m tall and 2 m wide won't turn on a light bulb reliably
@@olafmarzocchi6194 that is incorrect! I have a 500W VAWT in my back yard. The tip reaches 3.5 metres tall on the pole. The unit is 1.5 metres tall. It regularly produces in excess of 200W output. That's a lot of Wattage to run a few 5 watt downlights
Of course it depends on the strength of the wind in your region. It also depends how often you get it. How much usable energy does it produce per year? Have you put a meter to get an actual estimate?
Even though it was not an absolute success, it is an amazing accomplishment. Wind power is tricky and without altitude and strong breeze, it's hard to generate electricity. Great video!
Your ABS parts were being over extruded which caused the warping. You need to set the extrusion multiplier to some lower value like 0.9 or 90%. Over extrusion causes corners to bow upwards.
One thing that you can do is to combine the two turbines by putting a segment of the drag turbine on the middle shaft. Drag turbines self-start with much lower wind speeds, but lift turbines need higher relative speed of air across the blades to work. With a combined turbine, the drag turbine can help spin the turbine up to speed so the relative speed of the wind across the blades is fast enough for the lift based turbine to really work efficiently.
@@BrianMeeks this is an idea I've already seen being used. If you do an image search for "Darrieus Savonius turbine" you should be able to see some combined drag and lift turbines. A Darrieus Ugrinsky turbine should work even better.
The point is to learn. The value comes in the research and development. It's like paying for college. Most college degrees are completely worthless, but there IS value in the experience of learning HOW to learn.@@olafmarzocchi6194
@@olafmarzocchi6194 this isn't correct. Darrieus turbines typically don't self-start, and they only reach their peak efficiency when they're already spinning above a certain rate. Drag based turbines self-start and can bring the Darrieus turbine up to its ideal speed. That's why there are turbines that combine the two.
I did some testing on VAWTs 4 years ago, similar concepts but my one using aerofoils had vertical aerofoils which allowed me to adjust the angle of attack to tune the lift for optimal running without having to calculate it with maths. I will say I agree the VAWTs can be very satisfying to watch
Same here, I made a small scale 400mm long aerofoil, put on top of my house for testing. Lasted a year before a massive violent storm ripped it apart because it was spinning way too fast. I think the bearing and shift is still up there lol
1) ABS degrades in UV 2) PETG is as dense and UV resistant 3) I’m using Gloop, not epoxy. 4) Those joints are too small of a diameter, and spread them along. 5) Plastic Welding for extra strength to hold pieces together, sand and bondo to smooth the layer.
You need something like MPPT to generate electricity. It starts slowly "taking out" current when voltage is above X. It also helps to stay in optimal speed.
What do you think about this? Instead of using vertical turbines, designing some sort of wall or cone to capture the air and channel it through pipes to a Tesla turbine?
I do love me some 3D printed wind turbines! I started a project years ago to make a small VAWT to generate and charge a small battery for little garden lights. I really should get back to that project. :)
PLA and PETG can both be used outside uncoated if you use white also if you paint them white as well it not only smoothes them, but it reflects uv rays that may damage them over time.
Tbh I don't know why lift VAWTs aren't used more often for the massive installations. Yes there are efficiency limitations but having the mechanism close to ground level makes maintenance significantly cheaper and safer.
How much torque do they produce? What coil size and arrangement is your goal? Radial or Axial? At what RPM? When you begin to generate Current or Amps, you experience magnetic friction, also called cogging. The drag version requires designing the generator for the RPM range, most likely in the area of 1500-RPM max. The lift type will need consideration for over production, too high of an RPM, don't want to burn out your coils. Home Brew Windpower The Home Built Dynamo Two great resources for building wind generators.
Both wind turbines and solar panels work either with immediate delivery of a power to a network, or to a battery. It's absolutely fine when a turbine does not spin for some time. Simply, your daily consumption must match to an amount of energy stored during a windy period.
I'd like to get your thoughts on a design like the "rigidblade" wind turbine. It sits at the apex of your roof and catches wind flowing over it. I wonder if the roof surface area would give you good speed/more air. you can also make it so the fron of the house goes over the turbine and the back goes under so it spins in the same direction no matter what. I'd imagine it would also be modular so you can make one design and just add more next to each other.
I wonder how proper ABS cement would work on these parts instead of epoxy...additionally I wonder if changing the aspect angle on the lift model would increase its efficiency
PET-G is not melting in the sun. I use it all the times in the garden. The items are standing in the garden for 2 years and with full sunlight and summer heat and still look the same as the time the printed them.
I wanted to build here, but I like the first lift one better but the second one is much simpler for both construction and production, or perhaps it would be possible to make a combination nursery, would it not be more efficient
I am considering a vertical axis wind turbine that looks exactly like a tree, I call it : e-tree, the trunk of the e-tree is brown, the spinning blades are green, attached to the trunk of the e-tree are features of : wifi/mobile network, light and power outlet, to charge a car for example
You could have cut a large PVC pipe on a diagonal, heated it a bit and straightened it in a fraction of the time and expense. Also it would eliminate joints and potential points for breaking in high wind or rough edges without having to smooth them out.
Better off looking at 3D printed RC plane wings. They already have the designs down for light weight strength. They don't foam fill them, they do single layer wall with LA PLA so it foams so even lighter all in vase mode and then they add cross beams on the inside to give it more strength. Then they jam carbon fiber rods to keep them straight. Once out the ones who go for extra strength then sand and then epoxy the wings making them even stronger.
I would be interested in a regular horizontal windturbine that doesnt use an airfoil but drag like the old windmills did that ground wheat into flower... - make a twisted blade and try it out.
Great entertaining video as always, but... like you said there is zero load. They barely free spin as it is, so with the slightest load applied I can't see them spinning.
Перед тем, как что-нибудь делать, лучше изучить теорию, а также уже имеющийся опыт на эту тему, чтобы не удивляться, что свежеизобретенный велосипед не работает.
You will have most success with the lesser known, but more efficient Lenz 2 VAWT design. I am quite sure of this. These can be built without much difficulty with or without 3D printers, but they require more material.
why not try placing the drag powered one inside the lift powered one! and yes the shaking is a big problem and youwould have to use a generator with a fixed axle wich goes through all the way out the other side. If you have one with a long enough outer Axle or better 2 on one long axle you could bore a deep hole in the ground and fix it in place with concrete and the turbine rotates together with the Generators on both sides wich would make it very stable
Hey mate, very nice project. I love that you actually did build them quite big. Cannot imagine the work that went into this! Props to you. I noticed though a small error in the design of the first (lift based) turbine, that might hamper its efficency quite significantly: The airfoil is placed upside down / inside out. The suction side of the airfoil (longer side when looking at its cross section) should be on the outside. To me it appeared, that you had in on the inside facing the axis. Also when rebuilding, you could consider putting the rods closer to 1/3 of the airfoil (closer to the nose that to its tail), to reduce the loads on the structure. Let me know if I explained myself. But all in all very nice project and although you do not produce any electricity, I hope the running turbines help convincing some folks that renewable energy is quite nice. Cheers
I suggest you to stak the two turbines coupled with a free wheel cause the drag turbine start with 0+ winds and can help the Darrieus turbine that require a wind of 2-3 m/s to start. With the free wheel the slow drag turbine detach from the fast lift turbine and don't interferes in the performance. Let us know!!
Im building a big 400y400x1300z printer i plan to print a windmill sometime i think asa would be better than abs because it doesn't warp as much and is also uv resistant i bought a 5kg spool
ASA is definitely the way to go here, bit pricier per kg but for outdoor weather/UV resistance nothing else really comes close. Option 2 as someone else here suggested would be painting ABS parts with a UV protective layer, but I'm not a fan of post-processing if I can avoid it 😅
@@glittalogik yeah whan you add in post processing you might as well go the extra mile and make it with fiberglass and a printed mold wich I do plan to do
Greetings from Latvia. I’ve been researching wind turbines and your vid popped up as I’ve also been watching Robert’s channel. Re the generator there’s a few things you could build that would work fine with that set up. I plan to experiment myself over winter.
This test was more about 3D printing than it's about wind turbines. We got no data about efficiency or power generation. Except that in this size scale, there is no hope for power.
I'm not sure what gives you the idea PETG wouldn't be adequate, especially if printed in white. It won't even soften until >80 degrees Celsius... that's like 30 degrees hotter than humans can survive for any length of time. I've designed tons of outdoor-use PETG stuff. One practical reason I can see is if you wanted to smooth the outside using acetone, but you're not doing that.
"that's like 30 degrees hotter than humans can survive for any length of time" So by your logic humans just incinerate the moment they enter a sauna? 🤣 On a serious note, I agree with your take on PETG.
@@J-1403 I'm referring to the maximum safe temperature a human can inhabit without it eventually killing them. It depends on humidity, but it's around 45-50 degrees. If you need plastic to survive temperatures greater than that outside your house, you've got bigger problems.
3D print a gear ⚙️ attach to bottom or top then artach motor by gear you can then change gears for most efficient collecting based on wind amount or motor design rpm
Hi. vawts are a bit more complicated than they first seem.. Well to give you a few guidelines the lift tipe needs to be started and your profile while it looks that will produce lift isnt realy optimal since in a rotation the aoa actualy changes the profile itself while you also have to think that every rotation at somepoint blade gets into aerodynamic stall which is problem by itself since you proobably know that stalls arent completely controled..also the efficient operating speed for smaller lift ones can be scary (they really have to go fast) on the other hand drag type turbines have rly bad efficiency compared to lift ones which just adds to the fact that even lift vawts are terribly inefficient.. yes vawts work with 360deg wind direction but in most cases it is not worth it.. for domestic use wind turbines are not rly a thing sice the size exponentialy makes it better(for simple physics).. there have been some attempts in design to make something usefull but for now windpower for homes is still a dream...
Nice toy. The reality: All practical tests show that ground-based small wind turbines are extremely inefficient. With solar panels, you can generate at least 20 times more green electricity with the same investment!
I printed a VAWT turbine maybe just a little big bigger than yours (The "drag type" aka Ugrinsky type), used just skate bearings and 8mm rods for the build, used a NEMA 17 with high-ish ohm resistance on the coils for higher voltage output (thinner wire and more turns usually) and I was able to charge a 12v battery and drive some garden lights no problem, finding an optimal ratio gearing was kind of tricky, too high gearing and it wont spin in low wind, too low gearing and the voltage generated might not be enough for you use case even in high wind. Given we have a lots of wind and I eventually put it on a 4m pole. You need to elimate all kinds of friction on the turbine when it is this small, it should spin freely just by walking fast holding it infront of you. Even light up some LEDS if you run around with it in still weather! I printed my parts in PLA and found surprisingly that red PLA sucks and white or neutral PLA holds up way better in a storm. Using print setting with minimal infill and perimeters, I was able to print each segment of the turbine in just over 1h on a typical Prusa MK3. Bearings and rods for maybe 10 euros, such a fun project. It worked continously for over a year, with only minor repairs that could mostly be fixed by some super glue. Had to move and now I dont have a garden for doing these types of projects.
yo bro, please please don't use regular cutoff grinder discs for cutting aluminum, they can explode while doing so. Get specialized ones for aluminum only, or multipurpose diamond ones.
@@joerne.9632 Yes but he said, as i have quoted, "literally melt" If it is hot enough near you to MELT thermal plastic then you got some bigger problems.
Yeah bladed turbines are more efficient than drag turbines. And the prop turbines are also more efficient than the vertical blade turbines. But this requires extremely good understanding of aerodynamics and a lot of simulation and testing to arrive at the best design.
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done! 😃 I'd love to see them connected to a stepper motor! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊 And happy holidays!
![Twenty One Pilots - The Line (from Arcane Season 2) [Official Audio]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XCz7WUotXs8/mqdefault.jpg)
A. ABS will dissolve in acetone...get a jar...drop in some ABS filament (or ABS support/failed prints), dump in some acetone, put on the lid...wait 20~ min...it will create a slurry/paste of ABS/acetone...use that to glue ABS parts together...best glue for those types of prints bar none (just wait a little for the acetone to evaporate and you literally have a solid piece)
B. ABS WILL degrade in the sunlight...paint the blades in UV resistant paint or they will get brittle
C. That printer is stupid fast! Awesome!
Keep em coming!!!!
ASA is a bit pricier but seems like a way better choice here - stronger adhesion, less prone to warping, 10x the UV resistance, and even though it prints hotter it's still well within the X-Max 3's temperature range.
VAWT are not as efficient as HAWT but at small scale they are simpler and more convinient since they can use wind from almost any direction without needing extra components. The drag design is the less efficient of all of them but usually seems to spin faster on lower wind speed due to the extra material compared to the lift design
They are simpler and more reliable. So they can be used in remote places with less trouble
But they still need sizes of meters times meters to produce anything useful. Something less than 5 m tall and 2 m wide won't turn on a light bulb reliably
@@olafmarzocchi6194 that is incorrect! I have a 500W VAWT in my back yard. The tip reaches 3.5 metres tall on the pole. The unit is 1.5 metres tall. It regularly produces in excess of 200W output. That's a lot of Wattage to run a few 5 watt downlights
Of course it depends on the strength of the wind in your region. It also depends how often you get it. How much usable energy does it produce per year? Have you put a meter to get an actual estimate?
@@welovechoccywhat kind of wind speeds is it taking to produce this amount of power?
Even though it was not an absolute success, it is an amazing accomplishment. Wind power is tricky and without altitude and strong breeze, it's hard to generate electricity. Great video!
Your ABS parts were being over extruded which caused the warping. You need to set the extrusion multiplier to some lower value like 0.9 or 90%. Over extrusion causes corners to bow upwards.
One thing that you can do is to combine the two turbines by putting a segment of the drag turbine on the middle shaft. Drag turbines self-start with much lower wind speeds, but lift turbines need higher relative speed of air across the blades to work. With a combined turbine, the drag turbine can help spin the turbine up to speed so the relative speed of the wind across the blades is fast enough for the lift based turbine to really work efficiently.
What a great idea!
@@BrianMeeks this is an idea I've already seen being used. If you do an image search for "Darrieus Savonius turbine" you should be able to see some combined drag and lift turbines. A Darrieus Ugrinsky turbine should work even better.
what for? you earn nothing out of it. If it's to see a nice spinning thing outside ok, but that's about it.
The point is to learn.
The value comes in the research and development.
It's like paying for college. Most college degrees are completely worthless, but there IS value in the experience of learning HOW to learn.@@olafmarzocchi6194
@@olafmarzocchi6194 this isn't correct. Darrieus turbines typically don't self-start, and they only reach their peak efficiency when they're already spinning above a certain rate. Drag based turbines self-start and can bring the Darrieus turbine up to its ideal speed. That's why there are turbines that combine the two.
I did some testing on VAWTs 4 years ago, similar concepts but my one using aerofoils had vertical aerofoils which allowed me to adjust the angle of attack to tune the lift for optimal running without having to calculate it with maths.
I will say I agree the VAWTs can be very satisfying to watch
Same here, I made a small scale 400mm long aerofoil, put on top of my house for testing. Lasted a year before a massive violent storm ripped it apart because it was spinning way too fast.
I think the bearing and shift is still up there lol
I'm sorry to hear about your ripped apart turbine.@@TheWayne104
Was it under load that entire time and producing electricity?
1) ABS degrades in UV
2) PETG is as dense and UV resistant
3) I’m using Gloop, not epoxy.
4) Those joints are too small of a diameter, and spread them along.
5) Plastic Welding for extra strength to hold pieces together, sand and bondo to smooth the layer.
Beautiful! Even if they produce no electricity they are a testament to your ability and creativity.
It needs a wind housing to draw the air in. But how much you can achieve like that is still questionable. Nice to see the two compared.
You could've also used acetone to chemically bond the ABS together
If you want the advantages of ABS but needs to use the print outside, print in ASA. It's basically ABS but UV resistance.
Slow the print at the edges. Seems like the speed of the movement maybe causing a slight temp difference.
The first one turns slower, but will be capable of far higher torque that can be geared up to a higher rpm then the second one.
You need something like MPPT to generate electricity. It starts slowly "taking out" current when voltage is above X. It also helps to stay in optimal speed.
What do you think about this? Instead of using vertical turbines, designing some sort of wall or cone to capture the air and channel it through pipes to a Tesla turbine?
I do love me some 3D printed wind turbines! I started a project years ago to make a small VAWT to generate and charge a small battery for little garden lights. I really should get back to that project. :)
It's called Ugrinsky wind turbine, by the way.
PLA and PETG can both be used outside uncoated if you use white also if you paint them white as well it not only smoothes them, but it reflects uv rays that may damage them over time.
Tbh I don't know why lift VAWTs aren't used more often for the massive installations. Yes there are efficiency limitations but having the mechanism close to ground level makes maintenance significantly cheaper and safer.
How much torque do they produce?
What coil size and arrangement is your goal? Radial or Axial? At what RPM?
When you begin to generate Current or Amps, you experience magnetic friction, also called cogging.
The drag version requires designing the generator for the RPM range, most likely in the area of 1500-RPM max.
The lift type will need consideration for over production, too high of an RPM, don't want to burn out your coils.
Home Brew Windpower
The Home Built Dynamo
Two great resources for building wind generators.
At 4:33 you have a metal rod cutting jig with what appears to be an angle grinder. Can you share more about that?
Both wind turbines and solar panels work either with immediate delivery of a power to a network, or to a battery. It's absolutely fine when a turbine does not spin for some time. Simply, your daily consumption must match to an amount of energy stored during a windy period.
use a flagpole to get them up in the air.
I'd like to get your thoughts on a design like the "rigidblade" wind turbine. It sits at the apex of your roof and catches wind flowing over it. I wonder if the roof surface area would give you good speed/more air. you can also make it so the fron of the house goes over the turbine and the back goes under so it spins in the same direction no matter what. I'd imagine it would also be modular so you can make one design and just add more next to each other.
I wonder how proper ABS cement would work on these parts instead of epoxy...additionally I wonder if changing the aspect angle on the lift model would increase its efficiency
PET-G is not melting in the sun. I use it all the times in the garden. The items are standing in the garden for 2 years and with full sunlight and summer heat and still look the same as the time the printed them.
You can also use the 2nd twisted one as a Magnus effect wing in an RC plane!
Can you put the resistive spiral on the shaft of the lift turbine and combine them for more efficiency?
Use tape as a clamp to hold your blade sections together while the epoxy dries
I see a lot of high trees there... wonder if you get better results putting them up in one of those...
11:11 awesome well done
Savonius (drag) type VAWT work best at small wind speed thats why the small one worked best .
I wanted to build here, but I like the first lift one better but the second one is much simpler for both construction and production, or perhaps it would be possible to make a combination nursery, would it not be more efficient
would there be any benefit to combining the 2 turbines to take advantage of the strengths of each?
Thanks for the side by side comparison. It's very useful.
I am considering a vertical axis wind turbine that looks exactly like a tree, I call it : e-tree,
the trunk of the e-tree is brown, the spinning blades are green,
attached to the trunk of the e-tree are features of : wifi/mobile network, light and power outlet, to charge a car for example
You could have cut a large PVC pipe on a diagonal, heated it a bit and straightened it in a fraction of the time and expense. Also it would eliminate joints and potential points for breaking in high wind or rough edges without having to smooth them out.
I love these design and tests!
Please do more, with other popular designs - there is such a big need for these types of engineering today
I suspect PETG would work if you print it in natural and then spray paint it white. ABS BTW degrades in UV.
better in ASA
Is it easy to modify these designs to work with smaller dimensioned printers and still keep the same bearing sizes etc?
Have you considered filling the blades with foam for increased strength without much weight gain?
Better off looking at 3D printed RC plane wings. They already have the designs down for light weight strength. They don't foam fill them, they do single layer wall with LA PLA so it foams so even lighter all in vase mode and then they add cross beams on the inside to give it more strength. Then they jam carbon fiber rods to keep them straight.
Once out the ones who go for extra strength then sand and then epoxy the wings making them even stronger.
I have always wanted to make a vertical that would tack and jibe as it went around the circle.
They free spin! but will they spin when a generator is fitted with a load ? i have serious doubts.
I would be interested in a regular horizontal windturbine that doesnt use an airfoil but drag like the old windmills did that ground wheat into flower... - make a twisted blade and try it out.
Great entertaining video as always, but... like you said there is zero load. They barely free spin as it is, so with the slightest load applied I can't see them spinning.
Thx for showing this great project. You surely not only made NASA proud!
this is cool thank you for doing to work to show why lift is less effective then drag.
Hello, the step file is the complete model, we need the model separately. Ideal for 250mm machines. Could you add the files separately?
Try open tesla disc turbine for various energy generation sources
Nice design really!!! Do you have STL files for the rest of the parts? Where can we get/buy it?
Перед тем, как что-нибудь делать, лучше изучить теорию, а также уже имеющийся опыт на эту тему, чтобы не удивляться, что свежеизобретенный велосипед не работает.
ABS Warping; Increase hotend temp, add a tiny bit of cooling
There are vertical axis WT and horizontal axis WT. BUT what's about 45 degree axis WT. Think about the Gyrocopter.
You will have most success with the lesser known, but more efficient Lenz 2 VAWT design. I am quite sure of this. These can be built without much difficulty with or without 3D printers, but they require more material.
hello sir, why did you come up with that cut connection on helical blades? is that the best joint connection to make it more durable?
why not try placing the drag powered one inside the lift powered one!
and yes the shaking is a big problem and youwould have to use a generator with a fixed axle wich goes through all the way out the other side. If you have one with a long enough outer Axle or better 2 on one long axle you could bore a deep hole in the ground and fix it in place with concrete and the turbine rotates together with the Generators on both sides wich would make it very stable
10:20 Could you explain how to turn the Nema motor into a generator?? I'm new in this kinda stuff, and I would love to go off-grid :D
Actually if you cut a bolt before putting it in the blade it could work 3:00
The orange cat also chooses the second VAWT. It is always good to have a second opinion🤭.
I hope the cat was consulted before using their room ;)
When it comes to VAWTs wider is better than tall. Also generation at the edge/circumference is better than generation at the axis.
Hey mate,
very nice project. I love that you actually did build them quite big. Cannot imagine the work that went into this! Props to you.
I noticed though a small error in the design of the first (lift based) turbine, that might hamper its efficency quite significantly: The airfoil is placed upside down / inside out. The suction side of the airfoil (longer side when looking at its cross section) should be on the outside. To me it appeared, that you had in on the inside facing the axis. Also when rebuilding, you could consider putting the rods closer to 1/3 of the airfoil (closer to the nose that to its tail), to reduce the loads on the structure. Let me know if I explained myself.
But all in all very nice project and although you do not produce any electricity, I hope the running turbines help convincing some folks that renewable energy is quite nice.
Cheers
Why use ABS as it is not UV stable? Wouldn't it be better to use ASA as it has UV resistance?
I suggest you to stak the two turbines coupled with a free wheel cause the drag turbine start with 0+ winds and can help the Darrieus turbine that require a wind of 2-3 m/s to start.
With the free wheel the slow drag turbine detach from the fast lift turbine and don't interferes in the performance.
Let us know!!
This type of wind turbine blade I see
Why does the printer have a big layer line every 1 cm? Its visible on every part you printed on that Amazing printer
You print in abs but use epoxy glue to put it together? It's abs... Just use acetone?
What if you put the second one inside the first one
Maybe a clutch and flywheel system. If it is that infrequent, you might be able to run a small generator.
Im building a big 400y400x1300z printer i plan to print a windmill sometime i think asa would be better than abs because it doesn't warp as much and is also uv resistant i bought a 5kg spool
ASA is definitely the way to go here, bit pricier per kg but for outdoor weather/UV resistance nothing else really comes close.
Option 2 as someone else here suggested would be painting ABS parts with a UV protective layer, but I'm not a fan of post-processing if I can avoid it 😅
@@glittalogik yeah whan you add in post processing you might as well go the extra mile and make it with fiberglass and a printed mold wich I do plan to do
Greetings from Latvia. I’ve been researching wind turbines and your vid popped up as I’ve also been watching Robert’s channel. Re the generator there’s a few things you could build that would work fine with that set up. I plan to experiment myself over winter.
This test was more about 3D printing than it's about wind turbines. We got no data about efficiency or power generation. Except that in this size scale, there is no hope for power.
The UV is going to destroy the ABS. Maybe ASA is better
I'm not sure what gives you the idea PETG wouldn't be adequate, especially if printed in white. It won't even soften until >80 degrees Celsius... that's like 30 degrees hotter than humans can survive for any length of time. I've designed tons of outdoor-use PETG stuff. One practical reason I can see is if you wanted to smooth the outside using acetone, but you're not doing that.
"that's like 30 degrees hotter than humans can survive for any length of time" So by your logic humans just incinerate the moment they enter a sauna? 🤣 On a serious note, I agree with your take on PETG.
@@J-1403 I'm referring to the maximum safe temperature a human can inhabit without it eventually killing them. It depends on humidity, but it's around 45-50 degrees. If you need plastic to survive temperatures greater than that outside your house, you've got bigger problems.
Cool, print in pla and coat that is fibreglass etc to protect it from sun/heat etc? Laurie NZ
Oh man, I'm waiting a bit before buying my Max 3! But now I want to buy one tomorrow if not tonight! ;)
3D print a gear ⚙️ attach to bottom or top then artach motor by gear you can then change gears for most efficient collecting based on wind amount or motor design rpm
Nice build! Unfortunately no results for energy harvest….
What about over rev due to high wind speeds?
Why not print 3 or 4 pieces at the same time? There seems to be space enough.
Wana try to print an o-wind-turbine?
It would be interesting to see one with LIAM F1 Design
Hi. vawts are a bit more complicated than they first seem.. Well to give you a few guidelines the lift tipe needs to be started and your profile while it looks that will produce lift isnt realy optimal since in a rotation the aoa actualy changes the profile itself while you also have to think that every rotation at somepoint blade gets into aerodynamic stall which is problem by itself since you proobably know that stalls arent completely controled..also the efficient operating speed for smaller lift ones can be scary (they really have to go fast) on the other hand drag type turbines have rly bad efficiency compared to lift ones which just adds to the fact that even lift vawts are terribly inefficient.. yes vawts work with 360deg wind direction but in most cases it is not worth it.. for domestic use wind turbines are not rly a thing sice the size exponentialy makes it better(for simple physics).. there have been some attempts in design to make something usefull but for now windpower for homes is still a dream...
abs roughness good for vortices/ambience supposedly
I really expected the aero one to, wait…. Pspspspspsps
it is called UGRINSKY not ugrinaky
Nice toy.
The reality: All practical tests show that ground-based small wind turbines are extremely inefficient.
With solar panels, you can generate at least 20 times more green electricity with the same investment!
Your videos are wonderful.
Bonus points for the cat cameo appearances.
I printed a VAWT turbine maybe just a little big bigger than yours (The "drag type" aka Ugrinsky type), used just skate bearings and 8mm rods for the build, used a NEMA 17 with high-ish ohm resistance on the coils for higher voltage output (thinner wire and more turns usually) and I was able to charge a 12v battery and drive some garden lights no problem, finding an optimal ratio gearing was kind of tricky, too high gearing and it wont spin in low wind, too low gearing and the voltage generated might not be enough for you use case even in high wind. Given we have a lots of wind and I eventually put it on a 4m pole. You need to elimate all kinds of friction on the turbine when it is this small, it should spin freely just by walking fast holding it infront of you. Even light up some LEDS if you run around with it in still weather!
I printed my parts in PLA and found surprisingly that red PLA sucks and white or neutral PLA holds up way better in a storm. Using print setting with minimal infill and perimeters, I was able to print each segment of the turbine in just over 1h on a typical Prusa MK3. Bearings and rods for maybe 10 euros, such a fun project.
It worked continously for over a year, with only minor repairs that could mostly be fixed by some super glue. Had to move and now I dont have a garden for doing these types of projects.
yo bro, please please don't use regular cutoff grinder discs for cutting aluminum, they can explode while doing so. Get specialized ones for aluminum only, or multipurpose diamond ones.
"it's smooth as s**t" made me give you a like! awesome!
"so materials like PLA or PETG doesn't work because of the sunny day they literally melt"
Aaahh - whaat?
PETG deforms at 70°C, PTA at 50°C.
Depending on the location, the use of PETG should be feasible, but it is UV-sensitive. So paint it ...
@@joerne.9632 Yes but he said, as i have quoted, "literally melt"
If it is hot enough near you to MELT thermal plastic then you got some bigger problems.
Гордится тобой никто не будет - АБС надо красить, он разрушается от ультрафиолета.
Yeah bladed turbines are more efficient than drag turbines. And the prop turbines are also more efficient than the vertical blade turbines. But this requires extremely good understanding of aerodynamics and a lot of simulation and testing to arrive at the best design.
What slicer do you use for this printer?
Why didn't you stack them??
Make an “Eiffel” tower in your backyard to get it higher up ? Good work btw 👍
Look into a C-Rotor Design super-efficient and simple!
ABS is not siutable for outside, ASA ist it. ABS is not UV stable
Brilliant work, dude! Really well done! 😃
I'd love to see them connected to a stepper motor!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
And happy holidays!