Great videos sir! I picked up this exact model at a Garage sale that has a sign on it that said "rear end blown" for 50 bucks! Thank you thank you thank you for the great video. I'm about to drive into pulling the rear end and "servicing" the non serviceable rear end thanks to your great video. Please keep making videos sir
and you can rebuild the trans.. its very serviceable.. look for taryle dackle i think it is.. on here.. he has a video on this trans.. puttin a drain plug in rebuilding them so on ...
Thanks mine is sitting down in the pasture where it quit running two days ago or I should say quit traveling .I think it’s the belt but I will definitely give it a full service ,good video!
Thanks, if you want to get more involved there's a screen and possibly a magnet inside you could clean. I think just swapping the fluid is probably enough though.
I've learned to not substitute generic belts for the real John Deere belts. Often, these guys try to sell you a similar belt with less contact surface area and they just end up not making enough contact to not slip. Belts is not something I'm willing to use a substitute for. I've learned too many times. It takes too much time and effort to end up having to pull the thing back off and put the original J-D belt on.
Especially deck belts they never seem to last as long. My dad used to have an LT155. Seemed like we would go through one one belt every summer until we started using John Deere belts on the deck.
You can use aftermarket belts but you must make sure it's a lawn mower rated belt. To better explain, standard V-belts are not able to handle much twist or bent backwards and used in applications such as a table saw. So when buying a belt from an auto parts store make sure it's a mower rated belt that can handle the heat created by being twisted and bent backwards as usually done on mower decks. I generally just buy from J.D. and not worry about it.
2005 L120 also. Rebuilt twice so far, deck 3 times, 575 hrs and still mowing. Paint fell off. They're not bad for Home Depot starter line mowers. My front end wore tires like that one did,(no adjustable tie rod ends). I had to bend the tie rods to set toe. Still runs good though. Great back up mower. Great video.
Just one footnote....if you dont get the front tires aligned so they are both rolling straight your gonna have the same problem again. Transmission gets to hot blows fluid out and transmission pump eventually fails. Pull the transmission lever out of gear and stand behind it and push the mower.... one front wheel is straight and rolls . The other is pointed outward...that's why the front tire is wore slick, its scooting more than rolling forward making it harder for you to push and thus your transmission likewise when engaged. Your off to a good start but as my father always said, if your gonna go to all that trouble... fix it right! Good video but put what I call the adjustable tie rods on a a couple of new front tires and you got a good mower.
You are exactly right and the first one to point that out! I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video or not but I had the steering all straightened up before I sold it to him originally. I straightened it out before I sent it back this time too. Not sure what the deal is with the steering on this model why it's so weak.
At 705 hrs. my front tires have all their original tread. Something is really out of wack with that mower. I ordered an aftermarket kit for my 2006, 155c which included sector & pinion gear, 2 steering shaft bushings, 2 shouldered bolts and both steering rods that are adjustable. Original rods are still tight and steer straight so I didn't replace them.
The 155c, la145 and the 190 all have the same issue. The steering sucks. 2 things that you can do to improve them immensely are remove the steering spindles from the front axle and get a round wire brush and run it through where the spindles go. As the grease gets old and hot it dries out making steering more difficult. The wire brush removes all that if you do a good job. The second biggest improve ment is replace the plastic steering bushings around the steering wheel rod. This is a more difficult job but with patience and by watching youtube videos showing you how you'll get it done. The plastic bushings (2) are round and the steering rod fits inside them. As they get older they get worn and more egg shaped inside. This really causes the steering to become difficult. Replace these and clean out the axle bores and it'll steer way way better. 705 hours... pretty impressive
end of video... I pulled my B&S 20HP out of my 2005 Yardman like yours.... installed into a 2016 Husqvarna that threw a rod... the 15 year old B&S burns a little oil now... * I had a 4 acre yard since 2005, mowed 2 other lots / yards... It has got the hours on it.
nice job, getting ready to tackle l110 I pick up w a kohler command engine. Its got 575 hours hydro probably have never been changed. Tuff torq have a kit with fluids and transaxle seals and a filter, if you want to crack open the bolts on the bottom of the hydro.
My Hydro just stopped one day in the middle of mowing. Just like Click. I am guessing a Key or pin fell out inside the transmission.... All belts and pulleys on the outside look ok.
I haven't really looked at how that spring works. I reconditioned my 12-year old LA145 over the past winter and replaced a number of items. I also replaced the traction drive belt that had been squealing and slipping. I bought the spring also (the one that broke in your video, but I didn't put it on since looks like it could be difficult to pull on it enough to get it installed). Can the spring that broke cause the belt to slip when you're going on a steep uphill climb? In other words, does the spring keep tension on the belt when the forward drive pedal is depressed? I put a new drive belt on my LA145 and I'm still having belt slippage. I can feel the slipping when I go uphill, it will get to a point where the belt will squeal, and I guess heat up, and then it will grab and pull on up the hill. If the spring doesn't keep tension on the belt when moving forward, is there some adjustment somewhere that would remedy this problem?
Update: I learned about 2 years ago that the drive belt needs to be kevlar. They are more flexible and will pass thru the two tensioner pulleys much easier, thus will not slip as easy as the OEM polyester belt and will last a lot longer. I've been using kevlar belts for the last two years and I haven't had to replace either the drive or the mower deck belt.
I am about to buy a mower from my neighbor with a K46. I saw that the cooling fan is completely broken off,which she didn't know. She has been using it for 13 years now on a 1500 m² garden. It runs. Should I be alarmed about the fan ? I already ordered a new one for it
Man my 2002 L120 Automatic has 450 hours on it original tires with tread on them original motor and trans axle should pull the trans axle and service it have changed deck blade bearings once and one deck drive belt and one clutch. That tractor looks like it has 1313.3 hours on it not 313. But your video is great and has inspired me to service the transaxle
use a voltmeter to check if you're getting power at the clutch. If you are the clutch itself is bad. If not there could be a problem with the wiring between the switch and the clutch.
I've got a question about the rod that comes out of the back that engages and disengages the transmission. When it's pulled all the way back, it's disengaged. After I followed your steps for changing the fluid, I noticed that when it's pushed forward, it clicks into a "first" position that engages it, but there is a second position forward that also has the transmission engaged, is this a positive traction mode? When I'm spinning the shaft with my drill, both tires are spinning in the same direction. So my question, is this positive traction mode?
@@SkylarHillShop that's what I was thinking also but found it strange that the lever clicks into two positions forward, both have the transmission engaged. I noticed in the first video, the lever appeared to be in the first position forward and both wheels turned in the same direction when spinning the shaft, but also noticed when free spinning the wheels, they turned in opposite directions (with cars, that indicates open rear end). Before I put it back under the mower, I'm going to see if in the second forward position if both wheels free spin in the same direction. I'll make sure to let the results known. My mower is the Scotts L2048 which is the JD L120 (every part on it is a JD part number matching the L120).
Lol new ones. The L120 was only built between 2003 and 2005. Fine, sure, it’s new compared to the 70’s but they’re not really new. I’ve got an L120 and it’s still going. Came with the house I bought last year. 640 hours on it. Thanks for making these videos. Very helpful.
After watching your video I decided to change the fluids in my transaxle on my cub cadet it’s about 8 years old and was slowing down the more I used it mowing the yard it made a world of difference and it saved me about three grand from purchasing a new one.
The front tires are super toed out, Hence they have no tread. I have straightened them out in the past and the steering linkages slowly bend back over the years. If the transaxle makes it long enough, I guess I'll have to revisit the frontend.
Great videos sir!
I picked up this exact model at a Garage sale that has a sign on it that said "rear end blown" for 50 bucks! Thank you thank you thank you for the great video. I'm about to drive into pulling the rear end and "servicing" the non serviceable rear end thanks to your great video.
Please keep making videos sir
Nice work! I see these for sale cheap all the time with bad "transmissions". Maybe I'll pick one up and try to get it going again just for fun.
Thanks, it's worth a shot.
Yeah. I've seen a misdiagnosed transmission problem when it was just a slipping belt.
and you can rebuild the trans.. its very serviceable.. look for taryle dackle i think it is.. on here.. he has a video on this trans.. puttin a drain plug in rebuilding them so on ...
Thanks mine is sitting down in the pasture where it quit running two days ago or I should say quit traveling .I think it’s the belt but I will definitely give it a full service ,good video!
Thanks, if you want to get more involved there's a screen and possibly a magnet inside you could clean. I think just swapping the fluid is probably enough though.
If I were you I would keep it as a spare
I've learned to not substitute generic belts for the real John Deere belts. Often, these guys try to sell you a similar belt with less contact surface area and they just end up not making enough contact to not slip. Belts is not something I'm willing to use a substitute for. I've learned too many times. It takes too much time and effort to end up having to pull the thing back off and put the original J-D belt on.
Especially deck belts they never seem to last as long. My dad used to have an LT155. Seemed like we would go through one one belt every summer until we started using John Deere belts on the deck.
You can use aftermarket belts but you must make sure it's a lawn mower rated belt. To better explain, standard V-belts are not able to handle much twist or bent backwards and used in applications such as a table saw. So when buying a belt from an auto parts store make sure it's a mower rated belt that can handle the heat created by being twisted and bent backwards as usually done on mower decks. I generally just buy from J.D. and not worry about it.
2005 L120 also. Rebuilt twice so far, deck 3 times, 575 hrs and still mowing. Paint fell off. They're not bad for Home Depot starter line mowers. My front end wore tires like that one did,(no adjustable tie rod ends). I had to bend the tie rods to set toe. Still runs good though. Great back up mower. Great video.
Thanks Dale, have a great Independence day!
I have a trailer just like that Mine's got a shelf and everything on it Cause I'm carrying a lot of st🚎🚎🚚🚜uff RUclips video about it look it up
Just one footnote....if you dont get the front tires aligned so they are both rolling straight your gonna have the same problem again. Transmission gets to hot blows fluid out and transmission pump eventually fails.
Pull the transmission lever out of gear and stand behind it and push the mower.... one front wheel is straight and rolls . The other is pointed outward...that's why the front tire is wore slick, its scooting more than rolling forward making it harder for you to push and thus your transmission likewise when engaged.
Your off to a good start but as my father always said, if your gonna go to all that trouble... fix it right! Good video but put what I call the adjustable tie rods on a a couple of new front tires and you got a good mower.
You are exactly right and the first one to point that out! I can't remember if I mentioned it in the video or not but I had the steering all straightened up before I sold it to him originally. I straightened it out before I sent it back this time too. Not sure what the deal is with the steering on this model why it's so weak.
At 705 hrs. my front tires have all their original tread. Something is really out of wack with that mower. I ordered an aftermarket kit for my 2006, 155c which included sector & pinion gear, 2 steering shaft bushings, 2 shouldered bolts and both steering rods that are adjustable. Original rods are still tight and steer straight so I didn't replace them.
The 155c, la145 and the 190 all have the same issue. The steering sucks.
2 things that you can do to improve them immensely are remove the steering spindles from the front axle and get a round wire brush and run it through where the spindles go. As the grease gets old and hot it dries out making steering more difficult. The wire brush removes all that if you do a good job. The second biggest improve ment is replace the plastic steering bushings around the steering wheel rod. This is a more difficult job but with patience and by watching youtube videos showing you how you'll get it done.
The plastic bushings (2) are round and the steering rod fits inside them. As they get older they get worn and more egg shaped inside.
This really causes the steering to become difficult. Replace these and clean out the axle bores and it'll steer way way better.
705 hours... pretty impressive
end of video... I pulled my B&S 20HP out of my 2005 Yardman like yours.... installed into a 2016 Husqvarna that threw a rod... the 15 year old B&S burns a little oil now... * I had a 4 acre yard since 2005, mowed 2 other lots / yards... It has got the hours on it.
nice job, getting ready to tackle l110 I pick up w a kohler command engine. Its got 575 hours hydro probably have never been changed. Tuff torq have a kit with fluids and transaxle seals and a filter, if you want to crack open the bolts on the bottom of the hydro.
Awesome!! Thanks for sharing
You got lucky. I just ordered a new hydrostatic transmission.
My Hydro just stopped one day in the middle of mowing. Just like Click. I am guessing a Key or pin fell out inside the transmission.... All belts and pulleys on the outside look ok.
Great video, Good info for us DIYers
I haven't really looked at how that spring works. I reconditioned my 12-year old LA145 over the past winter and replaced a number of items. I also replaced the traction drive belt that had been squealing and slipping. I bought the spring also (the one that broke in your video, but I didn't put it on since looks like it could be difficult to pull on it enough to get it installed). Can the spring that broke cause the belt to slip when you're going on a steep uphill climb? In other words, does the spring keep tension on the belt when the forward drive pedal is depressed? I put a new drive belt on my LA145 and I'm still having belt slippage. I can feel the slipping when I go uphill, it will get to a point where the belt will squeal, and I guess heat up, and then it will grab and pull on up the hill. If the spring doesn't keep tension on the belt when moving forward, is there some adjustment somewhere that would remedy this problem?
A weak spring could definitely cause it to slip. It was annoying to replace, but I suspect it could be your issue.
@@SkylarHillShop Thanks for the info. Yeah. I'm thinking I may be able to rig up a ratchet strap to pull and stretch the spring over the rod end.
Update: I learned about 2 years ago that the drive belt needs to be kevlar. They are more flexible and will pass thru the two tensioner pulleys much easier, thus will not slip as easy as the OEM polyester belt and will last a lot longer. I've been using kevlar belts for the last two years and I haven't had to replace either the drive or the mower deck belt.
Not bad! It seem to run pretty good! Nicely done aXe! Have a good week!
Thanks, I'm on vacation this week so I'm sure I will! Have a good one yourself 👍
LOL! NICE!!
I am about to buy a mower from my neighbor with a K46. I saw that the cooling fan is completely broken off,which she didn't know. She has been using it for 13 years now on a 1500 m² garden. It runs. Should I be alarmed about the fan ? I already ordered a new one for it
Change out the fluid, stick the new fan on and you'll be good to go!
Man my 2002 L120 Automatic has 450 hours on it original tires with tread on them original motor and trans axle should pull the trans axle and service it have changed deck blade bearings once and one deck drive belt and one clutch. That tractor looks like it has 1313.3 hours on it not 313. But your video is great and has inspired me to service the transaxle
It sure does! Some people are just hard on equipment!
yes sir very good information i will subscribe
My L120 runs but the clutch does not start. I put a new PTO switch in but the clutch does not start. Can you help?
use a voltmeter to check if you're getting power at the clutch. If you are the clutch itself is bad. If not there could be a problem with the wiring between the switch and the clutch.
I've got a question about the rod that comes out of the back that engages and disengages the transmission. When it's pulled all the way back, it's disengaged. After I followed your steps for changing the fluid, I noticed that when it's pushed forward, it clicks into a "first" position that engages it, but there is a second position forward that also has the transmission engaged, is this a positive traction mode? When I'm spinning the shaft with my drill, both tires are spinning in the same direction. So my question, is this positive traction mode?
I honestly have no idea about that. I wouldn't think posi would be an option they would fail to list as a selling point.
@@SkylarHillShop that's what I was thinking also but found it strange that the lever clicks into two positions forward, both have the transmission engaged. I noticed in the first video, the lever appeared to be in the first position forward and both wheels turned in the same direction when spinning the shaft, but also noticed when free spinning the wheels, they turned in opposite directions (with cars, that indicates open rear end). Before I put it back under the mower, I'm going to see if in the second forward position if both wheels free spin in the same direction. I'll make sure to let the results known. My mower is the Scotts L2048 which is the JD L120 (every part on it is a JD part number matching the L120).
How long did this last?
Lol new ones. The L120 was only built between 2003 and 2005. Fine, sure, it’s new compared to the 70’s but they’re not really new. I’ve got an L120 and it’s still going. Came with the house I bought last year. 640 hours on it.
Thanks for making these videos. Very helpful.
I guess new is relative.
@@SkylarHillShop true. Just razzing ya a bit.
I know, enjoy the rest of your week sir!
@@SkylarHillShop you too dude.
Looks like the front tires need to be replaced as they're bald.
They sure are, but they still hold air so for now they are good enough!
Good video
Nice work but from the looks of that right front tire it also needs a alignment
I straightened it years ago. And actually I straightened it again just after this video. The steering linkages are a poor design.
After watching your video I decided to change the fluids in my transaxle on my cub cadet it’s about 8 years old and was slowing down the more I used it mowing the yard it made a world of difference and it saved me about three grand from purchasing a new one.
Awesome glad to hear it. Have a great weekend!
How about getting some light so we can see??
Well done
Thanks, enjoy the rest of your week!
those front tires are about gone:)
The front tires are super toed out, Hence they have no tread. I have straightened them out in the past and the steering linkages slowly bend back over the years. If the transaxle makes it long enough, I guess I'll have to revisit the frontend.