Seeing that QA sticker reminded me: I owned a small engineering company. A customer sent his "Quality Manager" to inspect our products and processes. After he left I looked at his business card and it said his title was "Senior Qualty Manager". Yes, they'd spelt quality wrong! After that we always referred him as the Qualty Mangler.
I love it when companies send their "quality managers" to verify our work. It happened to me 4 or 5 times. Every single time the guy was using outdated standards, one was expecting standards that were outdated for over 20 years. In most cases those quality managers have no idea what they are doing, they just learned something long time ago and are trying to apply it to us.
Imagine adding a thermistor, some beefy pwm switching, and having a temperature contolled one, tilt switch to reduce temp to a preset level in its stand so it was ready to go faster without all that dribbling. no man likes a dribbling tool.
Simply pull the stick back a bit when not immediately gluing. The feed grip only has a hold on the stick when the trigger is pulled. Saves having the hot glue drip all over the place.
@@theoztreecrasher2647 yeah done that in the past, but if your holding the item in one hand and the glue gun in the other then your out of hands, down to teeth, but if I'm sucking a Werther's then I'll dribble again...
Modern Makita batteries have a full BMS with over-current/discharge protection and active cell balancing. They've had individual cell monitoring since at least 2012.
They have a cell balancing BMS, but the battery itself can't disable its own output. That is the task of the tool / charger they are plugged into. And if it ever goes to over discharge, the BMS will never restart again, the original charger will reject the battery, but you can charge them with a knockoff charger, which neglects the BMS.
@@mmuller2402 They can't win. People hate the individual cell low discharge protection even though they don't know what it is, because it "stops a mostly good battery from working" and needs a tinkerer to resurrect the pack from the dead.. If you know a proper tinkerer, in a few minutes it's perfectly fine again, and you've defeated "Evil Makita" from making you buy a whole new battery because one cell got lazy. 🙂
@@mmuller2402There's definitely at least some examples of Makita packs with low discharge protection because AvE has tested and triggered said protection - on the examples he tested the lockout was permanent iirc with the controller assuming a fault condition
2 years ago I bought small Parkside glue gun with one 18650 battery built in for 70 PLN, it is around 15 USD. I bought it because I had like 3 glue guns, all destroyed the same way, the small plastic part connecting the trigger with glue pusher just broke after some time, all those were powered from the outlet and didn't melt the glue very well, it cured too fast. And let me tell you, this Parkside one just rocks. It melts so well, cord does not get in the ways, heats up very fast, and I opened it on first day to check if this part is stronger than on others and let me tell you, IT IS. Also it does have an LED to light up the thing you glueing. I love it and advise everyone to buy that one, not those with interchangable 12V or 20V batteries. It was cheap, works like a charm and is super light and small, not so bulky like those.
The first hot glue gun I bought about 40 years ago has no moving parts at all. The handle is made so you push in the glue sticks with your thumb. While newer ones have come and gone, that one is still in a drawer of my toolbox, and does the job whenever it's called upon.
@@RambozoClown Yes, I have one of those too, back when the cheap hot glue guns first appeared they were all like that, the ones with a trigger are a later development.
Dyson vacuum handhelds all have a very complex circuit board in the battery packs... A 6-8 cell pack and you'd be surprised how many times the board is the failure point as opposed to the numerous cells.
Lowe's Home Improvement stores stopped selling Makita and picked up Hitachi. At least in my area here in the US, not sure why. Had a Makita drill/driver that worked great but when the batteries died I just tossed it because I couldn't get the replacement 18V batteries, didn't know back then you could get fake ones. DUH! Thanks Big Clive for the video.
Deal ran out with Makita, and they opted to sign with KKR instead. Metabo is on Makita's level at least. Though if you're looking for anything heavier duty than a short project hear and there you should probably just save up for DeWalt/Milwaukee
@@babayaga7434 Yeah, I forgot about Metabo, I think it took Hitachis place now. I've got a little of all the major brands but don't see a dimes worth of difference in any of them...Harbor Freight here I come..😉
@@babayaga7434That’s pretty bad advice. For one, Metabo HPT and Makita are prosumer tool brands, just like Milwaukee or DeWalt. They’re all at the same level when you’re shopping their upper end offerings. Second, DeWalt offers a wide range of quality, you can buy a DeWalt tool that’s on par with the lost end of Ryobi or Harbor Feight’s range. Thirdly, Makita and Metabo HPT prioritize durability and ergonomics, both are important to consider for any kind of professional use.
But Makita batteries DO have a protection circuit build in?! At my workplace we replaced OEM makita ones with fake china ones (my boss cheaping out) and i kept the OEM ones. I opened them to salvage the cells and it did have protection (but no cell balancing). I still have the batteries since they still work fine for projects. EDIT EDIT: I just checked. -With the old OEM battery installed the drill works until it slows down a bit and then cuts out. -One china brand runs the drill down to 0V -Another China brand is like the OEM one but cuts out way earlier. But maybe thats just some internal circuit of the drill thats "communicating" with the battery and deciding when to cut.
As far as I'm aware, the newer batteries (like the ones revised/phased in within the last 10 years) have a BMS but that still doesn't include any low voltage protection.
My DeWalt batteries certainly don't care, they expect the tool to cut itself off. I have an adapter I made for a non-DeWalt snowshovel and it will run the pack way past empty if I let it.
I have a Panasonic Tough Tool IP drill, and it also has a proper battery management system that stops the batteries from being over discharged. It may not have the highest torque rating in the world, but I did and entire loft conversion with it, and many more jobs. It's a very good drill / driver.
I see by your outfit that you are a cowboy I see by your outfit that you are one too We know by our outfits that we are both cowboys Get an outfit, and you’ll be one too!
Supposedly newer Makita (at least 18v) batteries do have low voltage cutoff in them. I personally haven't seen it but it seems reasonable they added it finally. Another thing i have seen is that from some time they started adding cell voltage monitoring (and possibly balancing) in their batteries. Oldest ones did not have this feature but more recent batteries for sure have it! Sadly they have kept the model number the same from the beginning and there is no way to differentiate these different batteries from the outside. Maybe it's in the serial but decoding that without manufacturer data is not easy. Also note that over discharging is a huge issue for original older Makita batteries. The controller in the battery will flip a bit when that happens and it will never take a charge anymore from official charger until you replace the controller! As for the question why Makita didn't include a over discharge protection in their older batteries is probably because those high power mosfets that would handle switching loads like that were quite expensive and handling the cutoff in the tool was way cheaper. Remember, Makita batteries were originally only meant to be used with genuine Makita tools!
These Makita battery compatible clone products really know their market for people like me, occassional DIYers. Situation is, I have Makita Vacuum and drills that I use often, those are genuine from Makita. But when I want a tool I rarely use, like once in a year use of cutting some branches and overgrown trees, I feel that buying cheap Makita clone tools would work and I don't have to worry about their battery quality as they can take my genuine batteries which are what really important to their performance. But now I have to worry about incompatibility with some of them, thank you for this video.
Thanks Clive 👍 One of my pet-peeves is that No-one on yt knows how to use these. It is just a small thing, not even mentioned in 50% of the instructions. Just crazy...
Makita do have a BMS yes? All Makita 18V batteries I have taken apart (4, 5 & 6 Ah) have sense leads to every cell. The 6Ah batteries have mosefets for shutting of at overdischarge as far as I know.
@@tal2039 it depends on what tool you use it on. low power tools will absolutely run the battery down to about 12.5v which is not ideal. if you used them on a more power hungry tool they will shut off sooner
The 3 original Makita packs I've taken apart did not monitor individual cells. But they do lock-up permanently if you try to charge them when they have a too low total cell voltage (by permanently disabling the battery pack motherboard). I assume more modern packs have better electronics, then the old ones)
@@Peter_A1466I'm so mad at them for using only the first cell to power the electronics as well, leaving the battery sitting for a year will lock the board permanently, like a time bomb... Better off buying DeWalt, at least those are fine with swapping cells. Even Bosch is repairable.
With Makita batteries, the charger knows far too much and as soon as one cell goes out of balance, the entire pack is frigged and a new one has to be purchased. This happens far too frequently and must be a pain for anyone that doesn’t dabble in electronics/doesn’t know how to sort the problem. They could quite easily manage the over discharge of individual cells as each has a supposed balance wire, but I’m sure they’re just used only by the charger to tell you that you’ve knackered another £90 battery…. The cheaper Vanon replacement packs do seem to be better though I’ve not deconstructed one as yet. I’m just addicted to Makita grinders as it’s the one tool they make better (longevity-wise) than other brands.
if you remove the battery from the charger and replace it after a fault enough times, I've found you can charge the battery up again. I think the fault is in the cell being over-discharged and never working as good again
The Genuine Makita tools have onboard electronics that cut off when the battery gets low. I only have Makita battery tools and have never had a battery problem.
They are built into the devices. I prefer it this way, as it means that a faulty BMS can't kill your batteries unless you leave them plugged into the device.
The makitas use a bms on the battery, but that bms does indeed not shut the power off. It gives a signal to the tool to shut down. My Dml809 Worklight makes use of that by switching from whatever brightness to just a single led being lit for some more time. Though that doesnt help much when going from 10 000Lm to like 10. Interesting side effect of having low voltage detection but no shutdown in the battery, and NO low voltage detection but low voltage shutdown in the tool, enables you to bodge a little. For example the brushless grinder works down to about 11V, all you need to keep using it when the last battery is flat, is a pair of jumper cables and a car battery, not that I have tried that😂
actually bosch does similar things in their older professional Lithium batteries but for one thing they use absurdly well matched cells (5 years heavy used one) for another you can do configure the chemistry a bit as a battery maker so cells can handle a bit of overcharging without taking damage. I think the gist of the rather dumb original battery packs is that you have electronics in the tool anyway and you can add the cutout circuit there less things in the pack that might fail/get wet/draw a leakage current Usually the batteries have SOME way of telling the tool the max amperage plus cell temp and also may use one of these signalling pins to demand for a cutout if any cell (larger packs do usually have more protection) goes out of the tolerable range
Most makita tools have the over discharge protection in them, not the batts. They do it to punish you if you use their batteries in knockoff tools ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ I have my childs Power Wheels setup for my Makita batts, I have in line fuses and a low voltage cutoff to prevent the vehicle from overdrawing. Works a treat, they haul around the yard and when it runs out I just pop another tool batt in and they are off! :P
Makita's trademarked colors vary, but they tend to be teals; that generic tool "is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean."
Bunnings in Australia sell their Ozito brand cordless tools at very reasonable prices. They periodically have"specials" and over the years I have ended up with almost the whole range. 1.5 to 6 AH batteries, discharge, over current, over charge, protection circuits in them. The over discharge will give a bit more after a short wait, great for the last screw while standing at the top of a ladder. NZ Warehouse brand has Mako tools, once again a very effective Chinese range.
My makita star batteries shut down when they reach a certain discharge level. They also have a chip on the control board that records charge/discharge cycles (readable by Makita dealers apparently, for warranty claims). The modern makita impact wrench I have will not work with older battery packs, nor the chinese compatible packs, nor the packs I've made from casing + buy your own 18650's. So the near makita tools do talk to the batteries somehow.
It's a curious thing indeed that with Makita LXT the protection inside in the tool and the charger, not the battery. That's indeed a problem when using the battery on knockoff tools, especially since I'm told the battery contains a chip so that the charger can tag it as defective, and then it'll never charge it again. One of the reasons it might do that is if one or more cells are too deeply discharged or even reverse charged, so you really need to be careful with knockoff tools like these. I've also been told the battery not having any protection is not a universal thing either, but it's unclear which ones have it and which ones don't.
I bought one of these cheap Makita glue guns (not this exact model though). Good to know about the possible overdischarge issue. I don't really use the glue gun enough to fully discharge a battery though.
Genuine Makita batteries have over discharge protection. Fake ones often don’t. Some of the older Makita 18 volt batteries don’t have over discharge protection but any battery that has a star on the label has over discharge and over current protection. In fact most of the makita batteries are so intelligent, you can get a battery tester tool that will tell you pretty much any specs you want to know about the battery.
The knock-offs usually have garbage cells in them, and a questionable BMS. The originals have a very capable BMS, but it's missing a high current FET on the output to switch it off. It is the tool's task to switch itself off if the battery is drained.
@@mrnmrn1 Thats the issue, the tool does not have enough information to detect when to switch itself off. And depending on external thing for protection instead of battery protecting itself is bad.
Although simple, that simplicity provides almost immortality. Our 25-year old "mains" Bostik gun still works just fine, however it was supplanted by a pretty decent multi - power thermostatic Chinese gun (using a ubiquitous anonymous microcontroller chip to do literally everything) a while ago, simply 'cause the Chinese gun is a lot faster on warming up.
Makita batteries do have protections built in. you where probably looking at the older ones. the "newer" (past 10 years or so) have a small star on them. it means protection against overloading, over discharging and overheating. it also (I think) passively balances itself and actively with the charger. however some brands like Dewalt literally has nothing in them, I'm impressed you don't see more burned down houses from them. there's no way I'm charging them unsupervised.
It is a best practice to never leave any battery in any tool while not using it. Even if the tool does have protection circuitry you are increasing the drop risk.
My two cents. ANY cordless hot melt glue gun is damned handy. Cheap is good. Something that uses the same battery system as your other tools is, of course, highly desirable. I really like the Ryobi stuff.
I'm still using one I got years ago that used 4xAA cells. I ended up putting a boost converter / charge controller and a single 18650 in, heats up faster and has been running on that for years off an old laptop cell. My projects are usually non-demanding for hot-melt - a dab here and there which this keeps up with fine.
I bought an 14.4V AEG drill maybe fifteen years ago and the batteries died some years ago. I ordered LG 20 amp 3000mAh cells to replace the original and I was surprised to notice the BMS boards on the batteries. The batteries had all of the cells monitored for cell voltage. There was also temperature sensing and maybe some other features too. After replacing the cells, the drill is a bit harsh on my wrists, still a nice drill. It cost me only 99 or 119 euros back in the day.
As a fan of the old Ryobi blue version nicad set I loved them reliable .when they came out with the green lithium ion sets I was not impressed with the chucks on the hammer drill ,but the selection of tools was good especially when you get them for cheap I now have the big impact gun and hot glue gun and 4inch grinder ,I still have blue chain saw and circular saw with laser that still works well .The rest of my tools are Milwaukee M12 and M18 .sold off all my 18b DeWalt when they changed battery platform .sold off everything .now you can get adapters
I've got Makita batteries and they do prevent over discharge in use on the machines with a star next to the battery holder. I think the machine sets the limit so a battery that shows discharged on my multitool (red led frlashes a minute or two befor the motor cuts off) can still be plugged into a low current draw machine (like my small impact driver) and be used for a bit longer. I did manage to destroy a battery on an older drill by keeping on using it after it had cut out a few times (I was stuck in a cramped space and didn't want to go through the rigmarole of extricating myself to go and get another battery, expensive mistake !) and I continued to keep using it. Mind you, for the price Makita charge, I'd have expected better!
All brand name tool batteries have a system to shut down when they get too low but they don't do it by disconnecting inside the battery they usually communicate with the tool with some exceptions. Makita Batteries used to have the shutdown transistors in the battery but they realized that cost a lot more and now they're doing the same thing as every other tool manufacturer where it communicates with the tool. That third pin on brand name Makita tools changes polarity depending on if the battery is okay or not okay to use and every Chinese knockoff and adapter doesn't use that pin and will destroy the batteries
Interesting. I'm still a bit old fashioned and use corded tools, mostly. The cordless variety especially with swappable battery systems tend to be still pricey for my budget. The last system I used was the Black and Decker Versapak system back in the 90s and 2000s. That was back when everyone wanted the Snake Light. They used to be the go to for cordless tools all the way back in the 80s and maybe even the 70s. The weren't the most powerful things. They were mostly an oddity professionals just scoffed at until Li-ion battery technology took off, and Black and Decker faded away.
1:30 you prompted me to take apart one of my makita batteries and mine does have sense connections to each set of batteries. there are 2 chips that look like micro controllers on the board, and the whole thing is conformal coated. the only time I have ever seen batteries with only one sense wire in the middle is on clone batteries. I do know that the batteries shut off abruptly when they get to a low voltage, something none of the other clone batteries do. Also some of my clone batteries are rejected by my makita charger. but work fine in my clone charger.
I used makita 18v 5ah batteries to power my kids go-carts (replacing the lead acid). The kids ran them flat and never had any issues. I only did this because I'd read that Makita LXT batteries have low discharge protection on them and will shut off to protect the battery.
I belive some older Makita batteries did only monitor the last cell, but the last ones I took apart (bl1830b) they all balance the charge on all cells. I've tryed to charge one using a IMAX B6 charger and indeed they charge balanced within 0.1V I used to think the orange connector in the new LXT batteries were to balance the cells, but is not the case apparently Great video btw Clive! I also looked up the video of you taking appart that battery
Thinking about batteries, I'd love to see you dissect an einhell battery. I think they have protection in their batteries but not their tools, to bring tool costs down!
I firmly believe that the reason those cheap generic hot glue guns come with 5 glue sticks is because it' a "lifetime supply". I usually end up breaking the trigger off or the heater fails before getting through them all.
On a side note, I have a ryobi battery glue gun (the smaller kind which sits on the base, not the bigger one which has a battery directly on it) for finer work. Very pleased with it. I assume it hardly costs significantly more than knockoffs so otherwise than making use of Makita batteries there's no real reason to get those...
Thanks for another great video Clive Have a great Christmas 🎄 I'm late with the post, but there's a little something for you and Ralfy here. Looking forward to the Christmas stream with both of you 🎄🍬🍾🎁🧑🎄
That's a miniscule heater cartridge. Translates to low throughput, makes this tool useful only for small projects. And gee whiz, my high temp 3M gun didn't come with a switch at all. :)
It's surprising to me that the clone batteries would have better protection (with lousier cells based on tests I've watched). Perhaps Makita assumes you'd never use their battery in something that wasn't one of their tools, and the tool itself has the overdischarge protection? Regarding that extra valuable sticker...I have a late 1980s Sony clock radio that has for years proudly proclaimed its support for SATA RAID.
Milwaukee is the only battery i saw with protection. I have taken the Dyson apart. The Milwaukee appears to charge each cell or pair of cells individually. The dewalts have absolutely no circuitry either unless I believe the 40v have a boost circuit that is inactive while they are shipped and then becomes activated during the first use. There is some kind of rule about sending batteries that are 40v in the mail so they had to put something. As a person trying to scrounge tool batteries I have seen EXACTLY ZERO at the local battery shop that collects. Tons of Bosch and Dewalt and makita. Also the Chinese knockoff "build your own packs" milwaukee circuitry appears to be really good. The shells are a bit too light and there is no padding or much space. I got two of them from a guy who ordered them and they never did work. One of the terminals had fallen off during shipping. The wires are a bit small. A weird and ironic failure that apparently happens... I got one myself. Their HEAVY duty batteries. Are extra thick. And have Heavy heavy wires and battery tabs. The tabs are superior! So much so that they are nearly impossible to weld... even the factory couldn't! The tabs had fallen off and the weld hadn't penetrated.
Clive is absolutely right, the best battery s are the fake ones because they shut off the power and also have short circuit protection. Most new generation battery s however they actually have mosfets to shut off the output. Dewalt Powerstack is one for sure.
It seems that there are many devices where the BMS prevents further discharge when the battery voltage drops to a certain level, but then also prevents charging because the voltage has dropped below the safe-to-charge level, you see this in many laptops and other products. Damn, the effect of YT. I glanced at those glue-sticks (0:15) and surmised that you were making cardboard shims for audio systems.
I cant remember who but someone did a video on makita batteries, the only battery that has low voltage protection is the 6AH batteries, the rest have no protection
Bought a ebay fan to work with the M18 batteries. only has one speed, but moves a decent amount of air. Kinda like your clone batteries, shame you gotta by clones to get better things.
Work has a dewalt compatible version with a sliding switch in the base, but it must have a timer board inside cause itll shut off after a bit and you have to cycle the switch.
I do this for M18 batteries, which have an annoying habit of becoming unbalanced (crappy BMS.) Open it up, and test the 5 cells/cell banks by probing different pairs of connectors with a meter. You find any with low voltage (
I think with "overcharge" protection you mean "undercharge" protection, to avoid batteries go beyond a certain voltage level. Anyway, I really hate hotglue for several reasons.
The thing that sucks also about makita battery over discharging is that once you put them on a charger and try to change it if you put it on the charger more then once the makita battery board supposedly also shuts down so say if you were to charge the cell back up and connect everything back together . Once you use the battery pack to were it needs to be changed again. It still won't change because the board is in a pertect. So the board has to be replaced. The only way your able to reuse the changing board is if you were to only placed it to change once figure out what going on with the cells recharge them or replace cells change and reconnect changing board and recharge package before it goes under. Iv also heard if the pack heats up more the 3 time the board will go in to a shut down pertection and even after corrected heating problem the board still need to be replaced. Iv taken quite a few apart and 90 percent of the time the board need to be replaced the other thing that I see quite often the pack will have a bad cell. Very disappointing because makita battery are really expensive. If I original owed the pack and the charger shows a problem I'll automatically disconnect the then figure out the problem that way I don't have to automatically replace the changing board. Iv had the actual changer not wanting to change any pack talk about costly having to replace charging board on brand new pack because the charger told it to shut down and it's actually the charger it self. It only was used onec after the first use it act normal but trying to change a pack it would fault I put new pack fault . I was glad that I still had my older charger that I knew worked. It would of took me a while to figure out how would guess a brand new charger with a single use is bad . The best thing about makita and the only reason i tend to go with is because they do sell and carry replacement parts for just about every thing they sell . Some companies don't always sell replacement for everything. 🤑 💯👌✌️🫡❄️🌲🇺🇲
I've heard other You Tubers complain that YT automatically shadow-restricts or de-monitises any video that discussed a "Generic Utility Nodule" because the algorithm can't tell one Generic Utility Nodule from another Generic Utility Nodule and we can't discuss Generic Utility Nodules because they're just such terrible objects! Do let us know if this video suffers accordingly.
There's cheap genuine Makita batteries and then there's trade quality Makita batteries. If you want the protection circuitry you need to get the trade ones that have a start on them.
Guess I've just gotten lucky with power tools, the 12v lithium hitachi drill I bought as a kid and the ryobi 18v set my dad bought have both had internal protection with mosfets to disconnect at the end of charge
I do want to edit your comment about Makita batteries not being individual monitored. Only on the very old packs; 10ish years old; do they not have individual balancing. Everything made since then does have individual cell balancing.
In all fairness, they have a bms, but the bms only gives a signal to the tool to shut down. The tool itself when given the signal doesnt care about the voltage
That's the same design as all tools. The power output is directly connected and the tool itself will protect the battery once the battery gives the signal that it's dead. As Clive said only Ryobi does it the other way around is because they want their batteries to be compatible with older tools.
I think thhe deep discharge is due to the cheap tools missing the 3rd battery terminal. This terminal, on the real batteries, is at B+ and cuts off when cells are low. tells the tool not to operate. Not really Makita's fault and in my kind is a better design because then you don't have high power transistors inside the rather tight battery pack.
just bought a crappola dewalt compatible glue gun, going to grind the base with the dremel to make it fit my parkside, and of course i'll fit a low voltage cut off since parkside batteries surprisingly dont have them (huge deliberate design error to cause battery bricking imho)
Seeing that QA sticker reminded me: I owned a small engineering company. A customer sent his "Quality Manager" to inspect our products and processes. After he left I looked at his business card and it said his title was "Senior Qualty Manager". Yes, they'd spelt quality wrong! After that we always referred him as the Qualty Mangler.
I love it when companies send their "quality managers" to verify our work. It happened to me 4 or 5 times. Every single time the guy was using outdated standards, one was expecting standards that were outdated for over 20 years. In most cases those quality managers have no idea what they are doing, they just learned something long time ago and are trying to apply it to us.
He was definitely a "Falty" manager!
seirous qualty mangler
Was he also a Koala bear?
If I were a qa guy that got to make my own business cards, I would absolutely do that.
finally a circuit i could have designed myself.
It comes with a built-in game: you get to guess what melts first, the gun, the battery or the glue.
Schrodinger's Glue Gun?
They don't say WHAT level of quality they are assuring. Simply that some level of quality is assured.
That's _Exactly_ what ISO9000 means. It doesn't mean _good_ quality - just consistent.
The QC sticker falling off as soon as you pick it up doesnt seem like a good sign.
that's a quality sticker 😉
It was "controlled", nobody said anything about passing :p
@@GrowlingBearMediathe sticker says ‘QC Pass’…
It's not bluish, it's *Fakita* blue
Fakupta
Imagine adding a thermistor, some beefy pwm switching, and having a temperature contolled one, tilt switch to reduce temp to a preset level in its stand so it was ready to go faster without all that dribbling. no man likes a dribbling tool.
Well I'd say that I do
Simply pull the stick back a bit when not immediately gluing. The feed grip only has a hold on the stick when the trigger is pulled. Saves having the hot glue drip all over the place.
@@theoztreecrasher2647 yeah done that in the past, but if your holding the item in one hand and the glue gun in the other then your out of hands, down to teeth, but if I'm sucking a Werther's then I'll dribble again...
Let's make the feeder a stepper motor with retraction when off the trigger while we're at it.
@@Immashift now that's something I missed! I should of thought of it/remembered it at they have been doing it for 5 years or so on mastic guns!
Loads of room in that case to fit a protection board
Not a bad idea, drop off the battery if the voltage falls below a set point.
@@WineScrounger yes one could easily make a spring system that ejects the battery when voltages go too low :D
Or an auto off timer after 15 minutes
You can get protection boards that would suit if you search for Discharge Protection Board For 18v/20v MAX Batteries DIY Connection 5A Output
Makitas protection board is inside the tools, not the battery
Modern Makita batteries have a full BMS with over-current/discharge protection and active cell balancing. They've had individual cell monitoring since at least 2012.
They have a cell balancing BMS, but the battery itself can't disable its own output. That is the task of the tool / charger they are plugged into. And if it ever goes to over discharge, the BMS will never restart again, the original charger will reject the battery, but you can charge them with a knockoff charger, which neglects the BMS.
My father was using makita tools at work, and had original batteries bough up to 2018 and in 2018 they still had no cell protection.
No not true we have some 2020 and 2021.. low discharge is not monitored and possible 😮
@@mmuller2402 They can't win. People hate the individual cell low discharge protection even though they don't know what it is, because it "stops a mostly good battery from working" and needs a tinkerer to resurrect the pack from the dead.. If you know a proper tinkerer, in a few minutes it's perfectly fine again, and you've defeated "Evil Makita" from making you buy a whole new battery because one cell got lazy. 🙂
@@mmuller2402There's definitely at least some examples of Makita packs with low discharge protection because AvE has tested and triggered said protection - on the examples he tested the lockout was permanent iirc with the controller assuming a fault condition
2 years ago I bought small Parkside glue gun with one 18650 battery built in for 70 PLN, it is around 15 USD. I bought it because I had like 3 glue guns, all destroyed the same way, the small plastic part connecting the trigger with glue pusher just broke after some time, all those were powered from the outlet and didn't melt the glue very well, it cured too fast. And let me tell you, this Parkside one just rocks. It melts so well, cord does not get in the ways, heats up very fast, and I opened it on first day to check if this part is stronger than on others and let me tell you, IT IS. Also it does have an LED to light up the thing you glueing. I love it and advise everyone to buy that one, not those with interchangable 12V or 20V batteries. It was cheap, works like a charm and is super light and small, not so bulky like those.
The first hot glue gun I bought about 40 years ago has no moving parts at all. The handle is made so you push in the glue sticks with your thumb. While newer ones have come and gone, that one is still in a drawer of my toolbox, and does the job whenever it's called upon.
@@RambozoClown Yes, I have one of those too, back when the cheap hot glue guns first appeared they were all like that, the ones with a trigger are a later development.
Looks like Parkside Bots has learned how to use AI for wtiting articles.
Also have the Parkside, and its working good.
Thanks. Your comments about clone batteries are as useful as your teardown.
wait... was that sarcasm? if so, spot on.
@@thomasneal9291 What? No... I was interested to learn that (at least some) clone batteries include protection circuitry.
Dyson vacuum handhelds all have a very complex circuit board in the battery packs... A 6-8 cell pack and you'd be surprised how many times the board is the failure point as opposed to the numerous cells.
But they're good to salvage good 18650 bateries out of them at least. Overpriced Dyson junk😕
Lowe's Home Improvement stores stopped selling Makita and picked up Hitachi. At least in my area here in the US, not sure why. Had a Makita drill/driver that worked great but when the batteries died I just tossed it because I couldn't get the replacement 18V batteries, didn't know back then you could get fake ones. DUH! Thanks Big Clive for the video.
Terry, the reason why is usually $.
Deal ran out with Makita, and they opted to sign with KKR instead. Metabo is on Makita's level at least. Though if you're looking for anything heavier duty than a short project hear and there you should probably just save up for DeWalt/Milwaukee
@@babayaga7434 Yeah, I forgot about Metabo, I think it took Hitachis place now. I've got a little of all the major brands but don't see a dimes worth of difference in any of them...Harbor Freight here I come..😉
Metabo bought out Hitachi though
@@babayaga7434That’s pretty bad advice.
For one, Metabo HPT and Makita are prosumer tool brands, just like Milwaukee or DeWalt. They’re all at the same level when you’re shopping their upper end offerings.
Second, DeWalt offers a wide range of quality, you can buy a DeWalt tool that’s on par with the lost end of Ryobi or Harbor Feight’s range.
Thirdly, Makita and Metabo HPT prioritize durability and ergonomics, both are important to consider for any kind of professional use.
You can slightly pull out the glue stick when you're done gluing so to release the pressure and stop the drip (should the unwanted drip occur).
But Makita batteries DO have a protection circuit build in?!
At my workplace we replaced OEM makita ones with fake china ones (my boss cheaping out) and i kept the OEM ones.
I opened them to salvage the cells and it did have protection (but no cell balancing).
I still have the batteries since they still work fine for projects.
EDIT EDIT: I just checked.
-With the old OEM battery installed the drill works until it slows down a bit and then cuts out.
-One china brand runs the drill down to 0V
-Another China brand is like the OEM one but cuts out way earlier.
But maybe thats just some internal circuit of the drill thats "communicating" with the battery and deciding when to cut.
Only 5Ah and 6Ah have internal low Voltage cutoff, otherwise the tool needs to stop.
@@tal2039 huh interesting, okay thanks!
As far as I'm aware, the newer batteries (like the ones revised/phased in within the last 10 years) have a BMS but that still doesn't include any low voltage protection.
My DeWalt batteries certainly don't care, they expect the tool to cut itself off. I have an adapter I made for a non-DeWalt snowshovel and it will run the pack way past empty if I let it.
I have a Panasonic Tough Tool IP drill, and it also has a proper battery management system that stops the batteries from being over discharged. It may not have the highest torque rating in the world, but I did and entire loft conversion with it, and many more jobs. It's a very good drill / driver.
I was " glued" to your video. Great video. My hot melt glue gun is AC, which is fine for the amount I use it. 👍
That's illuminating about the protection in Makita batteries. It would be interesting to see a tare down of a makita charger.
"It's a Quality Controlled socket now" ~ BigClive, January 2025. Brilliant!
I see by your outfit that you are a cowboy
I see by your outfit that you are one too
We know by our outfits that we are both cowboys
Get an outfit, and you’ll be one too!
Supposedly newer Makita (at least 18v) batteries do have low voltage cutoff in them. I personally haven't seen it but it seems reasonable they added it finally. Another thing i have seen is that from some time they started adding cell voltage monitoring (and possibly balancing) in their batteries. Oldest ones did not have this feature but more recent batteries for sure have it! Sadly they have kept the model number the same from the beginning and there is no way to differentiate these different batteries from the outside. Maybe it's in the serial but decoding that without manufacturer data is not easy.
Also note that over discharging is a huge issue for original older Makita batteries. The controller in the battery will flip a bit when that happens and it will never take a charge anymore from official charger until you replace the controller! As for the question why Makita didn't include a over discharge protection in their older batteries is probably because those high power mosfets that would handle switching loads like that were quite expensive and handling the cutoff in the tool was way cheaper. Remember, Makita batteries were originally only meant to be used with genuine Makita tools!
These Makita battery compatible clone products really know their market for people like me, occassional DIYers. Situation is, I have Makita Vacuum and drills that I use often, those are genuine from Makita.
But when I want a tool I rarely use, like once in a year use of cutting some branches and overgrown trees, I feel that buying cheap Makita clone tools would work and I don't have to worry about their battery quality as they can take my genuine batteries which are what really important to their performance. But now I have to worry about incompatibility with some of them, thank you for this video.
Thanks Clive 👍
One of my pet-peeves is that No-one on yt knows how to use these. It is just a small thing, not even mentioned in 50% of the instructions.
Just crazy...
Makita do have a BMS yes? All Makita 18V batteries I have taken apart (4, 5 & 6 Ah) have sense leads to every cell. The 6Ah batteries have mosefets for shutting of at overdischarge as far as I know.
They do. Well my genuine makita batteries do anyhow.
Any Battery below 5ah doesnt have low Voltage cutoff
@@tal2039 it depends on what tool you use it on. low power tools will absolutely run the battery down to about 12.5v which is not ideal. if you used them on a more power hungry tool they will shut off sooner
The 3 original Makita packs I've taken apart did not monitor individual cells. But they do lock-up permanently if you try to charge them when they have a too low total cell voltage (by permanently disabling the battery pack motherboard).
I assume more modern packs have better electronics, then the old ones)
@@Peter_A1466I'm so mad at them for using only the first cell to power the electronics as well, leaving the battery sitting for a year will lock the board permanently, like a time bomb... Better off buying DeWalt, at least those are fine with swapping cells. Even Bosch is repairable.
With Makita batteries, the charger knows far too much and as soon as one cell goes out of balance, the entire pack is frigged and a new one has to be purchased. This happens far too frequently and must be a pain for anyone that doesn’t dabble in electronics/doesn’t know how to sort the problem. They could quite easily manage the over discharge of individual cells as each has a supposed balance wire, but I’m sure they’re just used only by the charger to tell you that you’ve knackered another £90 battery…. The cheaper Vanon replacement packs do seem to be better though I’ve not deconstructed one as yet. I’m just addicted to Makita grinders as it’s the one tool they make better (longevity-wise) than other brands.
if you remove the battery from the charger and replace it after a fault enough times, I've found you can charge the battery up again. I think the fault is in the cell being over-discharged and never working as good again
The Genuine Makita tools have onboard electronics that cut off when the battery gets low. I only have Makita battery tools and have never had a battery problem.
Good to know, Merry Christmas Clive.
Nice teardown. Never thought a real deal Makita battery wouldn't have a BMS with overdischarge protection.
They are built into the devices. I prefer it this way, as it means that a faulty BMS can't kill your batteries unless you leave them plugged into the device.
The makitas use a bms on the battery, but that bms does indeed not shut the power off. It gives a signal to the tool to shut down. My Dml809 Worklight makes use of that by switching from whatever brightness to just a single led being lit for some more time. Though that doesnt help much when going from 10 000Lm to like 10.
Interesting side effect of having low voltage detection but no shutdown in the battery, and NO low voltage detection but low voltage shutdown in the tool, enables you to bodge a little. For example the brushless grinder works down to about 11V, all you need to keep using it when the last battery is flat, is a pair of jumper cables and a car battery, not that I have tried that😂
actually
bosch does similar things in their older professional Lithium batteries
but
for one thing they use absurdly well matched cells (5 years heavy used one) for another you can do configure the chemistry a bit as a battery maker
so cells can handle a bit of overcharging without taking damage.
I think the gist of the rather dumb original battery packs is that you have electronics in the tool anyway and you can add the cutout circuit there
less things in the pack that might fail/get wet/draw a leakage current
Usually the batteries have SOME way of telling the tool the max amperage plus cell temp and also may use one of these signalling pins to demand for a cutout if any cell (larger packs do usually have more protection) goes out of the tolerable range
About the protection circuit, I found, with DeWalt, its the tool that has the protection circuit.
Most makita tools have the over discharge protection in them, not the batts. They do it to punish you if you use their batteries in knockoff tools ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
I have my childs Power Wheels setup for my Makita batts, I have in line fuses and a low voltage cutoff to prevent the vehicle from overdrawing. Works a treat, they haul around the yard and when it runs out I just pop another tool batt in and they are off! :P
Makita's trademarked colors vary, but they tend to be teals; that generic tool "is not just blue, it's not turquoise, it's not lapis, it's actually cerulean."
Bunnings in Australia sell their Ozito brand cordless tools at very reasonable prices. They periodically have"specials" and over the years I have ended up with almost the whole range. 1.5 to 6 AH batteries, discharge, over current, over charge, protection circuits in them. The over discharge will give a bit more after a short wait, great for the last screw while standing at the top of a ladder. NZ Warehouse brand has Mako tools, once again a very effective Chinese range.
My makita star batteries shut down when they reach a certain discharge level. They also have a chip on the control board that records charge/discharge cycles (readable by Makita dealers apparently, for warranty claims). The modern makita impact wrench I have will not work with older battery packs, nor the chinese compatible packs, nor the packs I've made from casing + buy your own 18650's. So the near makita tools do talk to the batteries somehow.
I got a Glue gun on built-in batteries with thinner glue sticks and it heats up in 30 Secs. It is from Lidl and brand is Parkside
I prefer those, but people doing carpets and such probably like the big sticks.
@@jsalsman yes there's less glue coming out of them at once ofcourse but for my electronics related 'glueing' it works fine
I always find pull the glue stick back stops the glue from pouring out 😊
Poor design, thanks Clive 😊
It's a curious thing indeed that with Makita LXT the protection inside in the tool and the charger, not the battery. That's indeed a problem when using the battery on knockoff tools, especially since I'm told the battery contains a chip so that the charger can tag it as defective, and then it'll never charge it again. One of the reasons it might do that is if one or more cells are too deeply discharged or even reverse charged, so you really need to be careful with knockoff tools like these.
I've also been told the battery not having any protection is not a universal thing either, but it's unclear which ones have it and which ones don't.
I bought one of these cheap Makita glue guns (not this exact model though). Good to know about the possible overdischarge issue. I don't really use the glue gun enough to fully discharge a battery though.
Happy 60th Birthday Clive. 🎉🥳🥃
Genuine Makita batteries have over discharge protection. Fake ones often don’t. Some of the older Makita 18 volt batteries don’t have over discharge protection but any battery that has a star on the label has over discharge and over current protection. In fact most of the makita batteries are so intelligent, you can get a battery tester tool that will tell you pretty much any specs you want to know about the battery.
The knock-off batteries being a better option, what a time to be alive.
There are some fake batteries that let you replace the cells too.
They are definitely not better.
The knock-offs usually have garbage cells in them, and a questionable BMS. The originals have a very capable BMS, but it's missing a high current FET on the output to switch it off. It is the tool's task to switch itself off if the battery is drained.
Same is true with ink, knock off is better.
@@mrnmrn1 Thats the issue, the tool does not have enough information to detect when to switch itself off.
And depending on external thing for protection instead of battery protecting itself is bad.
Although simple, that simplicity provides almost immortality. Our 25-year old "mains" Bostik gun still works just fine, however it was supplanted by a pretty decent multi - power thermostatic Chinese gun (using a ubiquitous anonymous microcontroller chip to do literally everything) a while ago, simply 'cause the Chinese gun is a lot faster on warming up.
Makita batteries do have protections built in. you where probably looking at the older ones. the "newer" (past 10 years or so) have a small star on them. it means protection against overloading, over discharging and overheating. it also (I think) passively balances itself and actively with the charger. however some brands like Dewalt literally has nothing in them, I'm impressed you don't see more burned down houses from them. there's no way I'm charging them unsupervised.
I always had a sneaking suspicion that two wrongs did make a right, finally, proof!
It is a best practice to never leave any battery in any tool while not using it. Even if the tool does have protection circuitry you are increasing the drop risk.
My two cents. ANY cordless hot melt glue gun is damned handy. Cheap is good. Something that uses the same battery system as your other tools is, of course, highly desirable. I really like the Ryobi stuff.
I'm still using one I got years ago that used 4xAA cells. I ended up putting a boost converter / charge controller and a single 18650 in, heats up faster and has been running on that for years off an old laptop cell. My projects are usually non-demanding for hot-melt - a dab here and there which this keeps up with fine.
I bought an 14.4V AEG drill maybe fifteen years ago and the batteries died some years ago. I ordered LG 20 amp 3000mAh cells to replace the original and I was surprised to notice the BMS boards on the batteries. The batteries had all of the cells monitored for cell voltage. There was also temperature sensing and maybe some other features too. After replacing the cells, the drill is a bit harsh on my wrists, still a nice drill. It cost me only 99 or 119 euros back in the day.
I use some old Ryobi tools from the NiCad era and they are ferocious on a modern lithium battery. Almost too powerful.
As a fan of the old Ryobi blue version nicad set I loved them reliable .when they came out with the green lithium ion sets I was not impressed with the chucks on the hammer drill ,but the selection of tools was good especially when you get them for cheap I now have the big impact gun and hot glue gun and 4inch grinder ,I still have blue chain saw and circular saw with laser that still works well .The rest of my tools are Milwaukee M12 and M18 .sold off all my 18b DeWalt when they changed battery platform .sold off everything .now you can get adapters
I've got Makita batteries and they do prevent over discharge in use on the machines with a star next to the battery holder. I think the machine sets the limit so a battery that shows discharged on my multitool (red led frlashes a minute or two befor the motor cuts off) can still be plugged into a low current draw machine (like my small impact driver) and be used for a bit longer. I did manage to destroy a battery on an older drill by keeping on using it after it had cut out a few times (I was stuck in a cramped space and didn't want to go through the rigmarole of extricating myself to go and get another battery, expensive mistake !) and I continued to keep using it. Mind you, for the price Makita charge, I'd have expected better!
All brand name tool batteries have a system to shut down when they get too low but they don't do it by disconnecting inside the battery they usually communicate with the tool with some exceptions. Makita Batteries used to have the shutdown transistors in the battery but they realized that cost a lot more and now they're doing the same thing as every other tool manufacturer where it communicates with the tool. That third pin on brand name Makita tools changes polarity depending on if the battery is okay or not okay to use and every Chinese knockoff and adapter doesn't use that pin and will destroy the batteries
Interesting. I'm still a bit old fashioned and use corded tools, mostly. The cordless variety especially with swappable battery systems tend to be still pricey for my budget. The last system I used was the Black and Decker Versapak system back in the 90s and 2000s. That was back when everyone wanted the Snake Light. They used to be the go to for cordless tools all the way back in the 80s and maybe even the 70s. The weren't the most powerful things. They were mostly an oddity professionals just scoffed at until Li-ion battery technology took off, and Black and Decker faded away.
1:30 you prompted me to take apart one of my makita batteries and mine does have sense connections to each set of batteries. there are 2 chips that look like micro controllers on the board, and the whole thing is conformal coated. the only time I have ever seen batteries with only one sense wire in the middle is on clone batteries. I do know that the batteries shut off abruptly when they get to a low voltage, something none of the other clone batteries do. Also some of my clone batteries are rejected by my makita charger. but work fine in my clone charger.
I used makita 18v 5ah batteries to power my kids go-carts (replacing the lead acid). The kids ran them flat and never had any issues. I only did this because I'd read that Makita LXT batteries have low discharge protection on them and will shut off to protect the battery.
"It's going in. Ooh, it's softening. There's glue coming out the end. That was quite quick"
11 quid ! … Amazing Clive, thanks I’ve just ordered one.
I belive some older Makita batteries did only monitor the last cell, but the last ones I took apart (bl1830b) they all balance the charge on all cells. I've tryed to charge one using a IMAX B6 charger and indeed they charge balanced within 0.1V
I used to think the orange connector in the new LXT batteries were to balance the cells, but is not the case apparently
Great video btw Clive! I also looked up the video of you taking appart that battery
Thinking about batteries, I'd love to see you dissect an einhell battery. I think they have protection in their batteries but not their tools, to bring tool costs down!
Good review. Now I can hot snot when the lights go out.
I firmly believe that the reason those cheap generic hot glue guns come with 5 glue sticks is because it' a "lifetime supply". I usually end up breaking the trigger off or the heater fails before getting through them all.
It's OK, Clive. We enjoy watching you "Screw Around". 🤣😉🥰
On a side note, I have a ryobi battery glue gun (the smaller kind which sits on the base, not the bigger one which has a battery directly on it) for finer work. Very pleased with it.
I assume it hardly costs significantly more than knockoffs so otherwise than making use of Makita batteries there's no real reason to get those...
Thanks for another great video Clive
Have a great Christmas 🎄
I'm late with the post, but there's a little something for you and Ralfy here.
Looking forward to the Christmas stream with both of you 🎄🍬🍾🎁🧑🎄
That's a miniscule heater cartridge. Translates to low throughput, makes this tool useful only for small projects. And gee whiz, my high temp 3M gun didn't come with a switch at all. :)
Happy Birthday for half an hour's time, Clive!! Glue gun then bed for me 😊
It's surprising to me that the clone batteries would have better protection (with lousier cells based on tests I've watched). Perhaps Makita assumes you'd never use their battery in something that wasn't one of their tools, and the tool itself has the overdischarge protection?
Regarding that extra valuable sticker...I have a late 1980s Sony clock radio that has for years proudly proclaimed its support for SATA RAID.
Milwaukee is the only battery i saw with protection. I have taken the Dyson apart. The Milwaukee appears to charge each cell or pair of cells individually. The dewalts have absolutely no circuitry either unless I believe the 40v have a boost circuit that is inactive while they are shipped and then becomes activated during the first use. There is some kind of rule about sending batteries that are 40v in the mail so they had to put something. As a person trying to scrounge tool batteries I have seen EXACTLY ZERO at the local battery shop that collects. Tons of Bosch and Dewalt and makita.
Also the Chinese knockoff "build your own packs" milwaukee circuitry appears to be really good. The shells are a bit too light and there is no padding or much space. I got two of them from a guy who ordered them and they never did work. One of the terminals had fallen off during shipping. The wires are a bit small.
A weird and ironic failure that apparently happens... I got one myself. Their HEAVY duty batteries. Are extra thick. And have Heavy heavy wires and battery tabs. The tabs are superior! So much so that they are nearly impossible to weld... even the factory couldn't! The tabs had fallen off and the weld hadn't penetrated.
Clive is absolutely right, the best battery s are the fake ones because they shut off the power and also have short circuit protection. Most new generation battery s however they actually have mosfets to shut off the output. Dewalt Powerstack is one for sure.
Thanks and good luck.
Bluish? Is it not blue?
Because it's 𝒕𝒆𝒂𝒍, darling!
He’s not a Scot, just Scottish.
😂
Gluish, it's not glue?
It seems that there are many devices where the BMS prevents further discharge when the battery voltage drops to a certain level, but then also prevents charging because the voltage has dropped below the safe-to-charge level, you see this in many laptops and other products. Damn, the effect of YT. I glanced at those glue-sticks (0:15) and surmised that you were making cardboard shims for audio systems.
I got a makita knock off soldering iron from Aliexpress, seems reasonable for the price. has over discharge built in too
I thought the same about the Makita not monitoring all cells. Turns out, some packs do not, and some do. Life is complicated! ;-)
I cant remember who but someone did a video on makita batteries, the only battery that has low voltage protection is the 6AH batteries, the rest have no protection
Bought a ebay fan to work with the M18 batteries. only has one speed, but moves a decent amount of air. Kinda like your clone batteries, shame you gotta by clones to get better things.
Work has a dewalt compatible version with a sliding switch in the base, but it must have a timer board inside cause itll shut off after a bit and you have to cycle the switch.
clive could you do a video on how you bring a makita batter back to life as i have one that want charge any more cheers Ian
I do this for M18 batteries, which have an annoying habit of becoming unbalanced (crappy BMS.) Open it up, and test the 5 cells/cell banks by probing different pairs of connectors with a meter. You find any with low voltage (
Maybe the 'Makita' they're referring to is the legendary hockey player Stan Makita...
@ 1:06 "I shall keep it.. As a valued souvenir...."
Your knowledge is amazing... But you are also funny Sir
You can't get simpler than that.
I wish Craftsman battery converts were more common. I think DeWalt batteries have that protection as well, or they tend to anyway.
Alot of overload protection for tool batteries is inside the tools / chargers themselves.
This battery isn't compatible with at least some Makita tools since it doesn't have the center connector block. Other clones work.
I think with "overcharge" protection you mean "undercharge" protection, to avoid batteries go beyond a certain voltage level. Anyway, I really hate hotglue for several reasons.
Too cool. Thanks Big Clive.
The thing that sucks also about makita battery over discharging is that once you put them on a charger and try to change it if you put it on the charger more then once the makita battery board supposedly also shuts down so say if you were to charge the cell back up and connect everything back together . Once you use the battery pack to were it needs to be changed again. It still won't change because the board is in a pertect. So the board has to be replaced. The only way your able to reuse the changing board is if you were to only placed it to change once figure out what going on with the cells recharge them or replace cells change and reconnect changing board and recharge package before it goes under. Iv also heard if the pack heats up more the 3 time the board will go in to a shut down pertection and even after corrected heating problem the board still need to be replaced. Iv taken quite a few apart and 90 percent of the time the board need to be replaced the other thing that I see quite often the pack will have a bad cell. Very disappointing because makita battery are really expensive. If I original owed the pack and the charger shows a problem I'll automatically disconnect the then figure out the problem that way I don't have to automatically replace the changing board. Iv had the actual changer not wanting to change any pack talk about costly having to replace charging board on brand new pack because the charger told it to shut down and it's actually the charger it self. It only was used onec after the first use it act normal but trying to change a pack it would fault I put new pack fault . I was glad that I still had my older charger that I knew worked. It would of took me a while to figure out how would guess a brand new charger with a single use is bad . The best thing about makita and the only reason i tend to go with is because they do sell and carry replacement parts for just about every thing they sell . Some companies don't always sell replacement for everything. 🤑 💯👌✌️🫡❄️🌲🇺🇲
I've heard other You Tubers complain that YT automatically shadow-restricts or de-monitises any video that discussed a "Generic Utility Nodule" because the algorithm can't tell one Generic Utility Nodule from another Generic Utility Nodule and we can't discuss Generic Utility Nodules because they're just such terrible objects!
Do let us know if this video suffers accordingly.
Makita only has discharge protection if the 3rd pin is connected
There's cheap genuine Makita batteries and then there's trade quality Makita batteries. If you want the protection circuitry you need to get the trade ones that have a start on them.
Looks like a handy little item if I’m honest
Price gouge ! Why doesn't that surprise me? 😮
There needs to an AvE Release The Spluge voiceover for dramatic effect.
Maybe, but I think my $5 corded glue gun has another 30-40 years left in it.
Guess I've just gotten lucky with power tools, the 12v lithium hitachi drill I bought as a kid and the ryobi 18v set my dad bought have both had internal protection with mosfets to disconnect at the end of charge
The Ryobi has them due to its backward compatibility with older tools from the NiCad era.
I do want to edit your comment about Makita batteries not being individual monitored. Only on the very old packs; 10ish years old; do they not have individual balancing. Everything made since then does have individual cell balancing.
I've updated the description to indicate that it's the older packs.
Makita cheeping out with no BMS why am I not shocked. Still an OK bit of kit if you dont mind the lack of heat control. Interesting video 2x👍
In all fairness, they have a bms, but the bms only gives a signal to the tool to shut down. The tool itself when given the signal doesnt care about the voltage
That's the same design as all tools. The power output is directly connected and the tool itself will protect the battery once the battery gives the signal that it's dead. As Clive said only Ryobi does it the other way around is because they want their batteries to be compatible with older tools.
@@UhOhUmm not 'all tools', oddly the cheap tools from the aldi store have switching mosfets in the battery, their main competitor lidl do not.
Milwaukee batteries don't have the safety stuff, because each tool and charger does. I suspect other brands do the same.
Ryobi has built in MOSFETs for shutting off any tool connected.
I couldn't think of a smart-arse comment for this one. But interesting to see one stripped down and how simple the function is. :)
I think thhe deep discharge is due to the cheap tools missing the 3rd battery terminal. This terminal, on the real batteries, is at B+ and cuts off when cells are low. tells the tool not to operate. Not really Makita's fault and in my kind is a better design because then you don't have high power transistors inside the rather tight battery pack.
just bought a crappola dewalt compatible glue gun, going to grind the base with the dremel to make it fit my parkside, and of course i'll fit a low voltage cut off since parkside batteries surprisingly dont have them (huge deliberate design error to cause battery bricking imho)
I think it's just cheaper to send a signal to the tool to get it to shut off using its power control components.
Some powertools have the smarts in the tool instead of the battery
You can get protection boards that would suit if you search for Discharge Protection Board For 18v/20v MAX Batteries DIY Connection 5A Output