Joey. Terrific explanation of how to assess and then adjust cable tension on a front derailleur. This video is probably the best one I have viewed. I would also agree that in regard to chain line the derailleur front plate may need to be kicked out a little. Great way to start the new year. Top job , once again thank you for passing on your knowledge. Take care !
After watching so many guides regarding front derailleur, this is the only one that finally works for me. I've been adjusting the front derailleur of my tiagra 4700, before it was either barely or not shifting up. Also, it was hard to press the sti to shift up. Now, everything is smooth and easy to press the sti shifter to change gears. Thank you!
Joey thank you so much for making this video. Great explanations and detail! For years I didn't know about the trick you explained of setting the low limit screw to move the derailleur far to the outside during setup to get the right cable tension. I always used a cable puller tool (I think Park Tools calls it a 4th hand tool?) but your method with the limit screw is so much easier. I've never seen that before, and I've watched at least 5 or 6 videos on the subject in the past while I was learning about how to make adjustments. Your video is really the best! I can't believe it only has 429 likes (as of Sep 2022) in three years. Awesome video, thank you!
Top notch! As a side note I discovered by accident a 5700 FD can be made to work with 4700 levers. A bit touchy but did the job until 4700 mech arrived. Great video, I would never have found that screw or worked out the pin bit. Thank you
Awesome video Joey absolutely brilliant. I've got dura ace 9000 and could never get it to work like I wanted but after following the procedure in you're video,bingo it works absolutely flawlessly and you don't even need a barrel adjuster. Huge thanks for the content 😊.
This video is a god-sent as I have 1 bike with FD-5800 and 2 more bikes with FD-4700 at home for my kids (with flat bar shifter SL-RS700 and SL-4700 respectively). Now I know how to adjust the tension of the cable properly without dialing the barrel adjuster way too much. Thanks!
Hey Joey, this is the first time I have ever commented on a youtube video. Just wanted to say thanks because I could not figure out how to create more tension on my FD. Your video is so easy to understand and you explain it so well. Thank you so much. Cheers Des from Melbourne AUS.
Great video, thank you! The knack of balancing the lower limit screw against the resting cable tension has me feeling stupid I didn't think of it! Additional thanks (as you sound North American) for using metric measurements. Cheers from Brisbane.
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback! Bikes have been using the metric system so long, it’s rare to find anything using SAE measurements anymore!
Finally somebody explainning it all. This is the best video tutorial so far for 5800 105. It seems I'm the only poor guy on the net not having an Ultegra groupset 🤣 Thanks much!!
I had problems in setting the Tiagra derailleur and found out that no matter how much I was pulling the cable before fixing it, there was always a tiny slack. Adding an in line adjuster solved this. Incidentally, I never had problems with in line adjusters getting loose or anything, in other bikes. Also, I think the correct procedure is first setting the L and H limit screws (so that there is just a hair between the derailleur plates and the chain in the extreme positions), then install the cable. I would not use the L screw to recover the cable slack, that would mess up the entire setting.
Thanks for the tip about screwing in the low limit screw. I had a chain break that screwed up the FD. I kept running into issues of not being able to upshift to the big ring. I thought I trashed my FD...turns out I just needed to set it up right. Thanks again!
Glad to see someone has taken the time to show what difference the converter on/off positions make. I have 5700 but replaced the FD with a 5800. People said it wouldn't work, I said it would. It works flawlessly. Great little tip about overshooting the outer position a little more than usual regards the FD cage and the big ring. Another little tip is to jam a 6mm allen key between the FD where the spring is. It brings the FD out to more or less the correct position to make sure you have enough cable tension. I do have barrel adjusters at the downtube for my FD, so that helps to fine tune. What a lot of people don't realise is that there is a lot more cable tension required on the newer FD's compared to the older versions. Top job, man!
I noticed you mentioned the cable tension thing in the description after watching the video, so I've basically repeated what you already stated ha! Most welcome, bro. Just subbed, too.
Hi, I have a 2x Tiagra Shifter and have the weird problem that If I'm on the big chainring, I can shift down twice. No matter how much i fastened the cable while being on the big chainring, The shifter would always allow to shift down twice, which irritates me... My shifting was perfect for almost one year, then trouble began when the chain got stuck in parallel once inside the cage of the front dereilleur.... After that I needed a new one (FD-5800) and no matter how many times I tried it, it's almost impossible for me to fine tune it, cause it needs to much tension to get to the big chainring... It's either no problem switching from small to big, but then the chain has much contact to the fd while being at the 4th lowest gear or it's the other way around, the chain doesnt go onto the big chainring but I can perfectly switch all the gears in the back. Any tips/recommendations? Cause this annoys me for quiet some time... Thanks!
Hi mate, did you just replaced front derailleur 5700 to 5800 , what type shifters do you have , and what crankset? I'm planning to put crankset 105 7000 with 5700 just wondering 🤔 if this will work.
@@rafaellop6332 Everything is 5700, apart from a 6800 Ultegra cassette and the 5800 FD. I don't think 7000 will work with 5700 as the pull ratio in the cables/shifters is different
I learned something today, never, ever adjusted the set screw to frame (I have a 4700 setup on both my bikes) to 'tighten' the wiggle. Never adjusted over the years on any groupset used. It answered the questions I had, thanks. Why not use cable clamp pliers to set the tension? I like to use them because it keeps the cable from getting tweaked during install...also, just for kicks and giggles, inline adjuster's are the bomb for final little tweakage, have them on both bikes, both sides...
I really want to thank you for that advice starting at 13:45 about taking the outer plate of the cage a few mm beyond flush with the ring. Otherwise you need vicegrips or to wind the cable around your hand to put enough tension on the cable when you tighten the clamp bolt. The Shimano install manual doesn't even tell you that the reason you take the low limit all the way over like that at the start is for the purpose of loading more tension on the cable. It just leaves you scratching your head. Probably varies by crankset, but on the Praxis Works cranks that came on my Fujis; i kicked the front of the plate out (rear in) just slightly so the chain doesn't rub on the outer plate when it's in high gear.
Really a fantastic video Joey, it's nice to have the exact same derailleur, it's just too tricky to learn off of a different derailleur. I had the wire the wrong way lol. i was taught to always put wire around in the direction the screw is turning so that when you tighten the screw the wire tightens a little and doesn't loosen. This is backwards, the wire is wrapped the other way so when you tighten the screw the wire loosens. It is raining and my drive train is clean so i will wait. I did some more adjustments, put a link back in my chain, moved the derailleur down a little more and turned it a bit and wrapped the wire. I still think there is a tension problem, i have internal routing. I might replace the cable and oil it. I don't like the turn around bolts it makes under and near the bb. thx again.
i also don't like where the derailleur is located, it is further back than yours, it is a bar clamp. In low gear the cable clamp bolt is really close to my tire, which is the widest i can put on my bike, 45mm width.
Yeah, that's another reason they changed the style of the derailleur to add more tire clearance. If you want to run a wider tire, the newer style is cross compatible (105-FD R7000, Ultegra FD R8000, and Dura Ace FD R9100) and will function the same with your existing shifter.
@@JoeyMesa I almost have it dialed in. Sunny day finally, short test drive, it's shifting much better, upshifts not quite there, but will make it in the higher rear gears. I adjusted the limit screw but dont want to adjust the cable again so i will try the barrel. If the barrel is not moving the wire much, is there a reason for that? I am also still waiting for my bb tool so i can fully tighten the new bb up. It is hand tightened with glove and rags fairy hard.
Even following everything on video. And pause and go each step, my derailleur up front still don’t wanna work at all. And it go to the point that the cable ended up messing up front shifter lever as well. Cable got jammed as well. I had new wire and new cable on fuji norcom 2.5 straight. I’m about to give up and roll single up front at this point
HI, good video thanks. QUESTION at 18:00 I have a problem. I cannot back off the lower limit screw enough to stop the chain rubbing on the FD black block. I also do NOT have the gear cable connected yet. Just the FD mounted and 2mm off the large chain ring and aligned parallel with the big chainring (slightly outboard). I have backed off the limit screws and the frame support allen key BUT the chain rubs in the lower 2 gears. Cranks are 7900 FD is 6800 and the frame is Pinarello F8 2016 model braise on. ideas?
These derailleurs only allow a certain amount of range. Try turning in the high limit screw a little and it will allow the low end to go a little further in. These limit screws are different than the conventional high/low limit screws used on conventional derailleurs. They're basically the same as the limit settings on Di2 derailleurs.
Best vid on this! A real person going through it properly. Step by step. I love GCN but just reading shimano installation guide to the camera doesn't help. I've already fucking read that!! That's why I'm on RUclips, it didn't help. Sub'd btw great vid
Hi Joey, not sure I'm understanding what you do in the video, I'm trying to set my front derailleur FD-9000. 1) first position of the left shifter (all way down to low) 2) release the cable from derailleur 3) screw all the way in the barrel adjuster to have max slack off the cable 3) check the converter side 4) set the L-limit screw to have the outer cage 3mm out from the big chainring 5) fix the cable in the derailler now how we will set the L-limit screw and most important the H-limit screw (why this part is not mentioned?) In this way I have the chain rubbing against the outer cage on the 53-11 and on the inner with the 36-28... Thank you, have a marry christmas mate!
On step 4, turn the L screw in until the outer cage is directly above the big chainring. If you take a flat plane, like the side of an allen wrench, and lay it on the side of the big chainring, it should be just touching the side of the outer cage as well, but I've found going a little further out (I believe I said 3mm past the big ring in the video, which works well especially if you're installing a new cable). You should have a 1-3mm gap between the top of the chainring teeth and the bottom of the outer derailleur cage. You only set the L-limit screw temporarily to attach the cable as it puts the derailleur in the ideal position to do so. Once the cable is tight, you back the L-limit screw off so there is a very small gap between the inner cage and the chain when you're in the 36-28. You can set the high limit screw by having the chain in the 11t cog in the rear and manually shifting the front derailleur onto the big ring. I do this at the 22:15 point in the video as an example. As you're extending the derailleur as far as it will go, just adjust the high limit screw until there is a small gap between the chain and the outer cage. Once that is set, if the chain rubs while in the big ring -11 combo, you need to add more cable tension with the barrel adjuster.
Hi I changed my 50T tiagra chainring to a 46T BBB which is supposed to be compatible. I lowed the front deraillier to keep it close to the chainring, new chain, new 10 speed cassette, same 34T tiagra lower ring (verified mount orientation correct). Previously 4000 miles of commuting and in rain, zero problem downshifting, chain always dropped right onto the lower ring. Now chain lands inbetween the rings and just slides. Turning the crank slowly by hand the chain lands at an angle on the lower ring. I also moved the limit screw so the derailler goes too far to the left, same result. Any ideas? tia
Typically the issue you're describing (neutraling) happens when the space between the chainrings is too wide. Normally I would suggest the small ring mounting orientation, as it's an easy mistake to mount it backwards, but since you verified it's correct, my guess is the aftermarket 46T chainring is not comparable with your system.
@@JoeyMesait looks like the chain doesn't fall between the two rings, it just sits partly on the teeth, at an angle, and can't catch so it slips. Somehow i got the downshifting to work fine. Upshifting is the problem. As long as i'm in smaller gears in the back it's fine. My front derailleur is not going all the way outboard. The furthest it gets, as it sits in high gear up front, i can push the derailleur outward more - so it's not the limit screws. I can't seem to get it there and still have my derailleur go far enough inward to downshift. grrrr. I did clean it pretty good but i didn't take it apart or off the bike. You think maybe my front shifter needs some work? Thx.
Has anyone else noticed the derailleur has a very narrow channel for the chain. Caused by the "lip" at the front of the derailleur? For example the outer plate is further outside the chain ring, because the actual chain guide determines where the chain is sitting. (about 5mm inside the line of the actual outer plate there is a guide). Also went through the pin options, it works much better attaching the cable round from the left clock wise over the top bolt
This is by far the most informative video, better than park tool or GCN, my only question is do I absolutely need the backer plate and if so, where can I get it
Thanks Joey. I cannot tell you how many times I have viewed this and that is only due to my incompetence rather than your instructions. At least I can keep referring back to this as I attempt yet again to set it up. Quick question do you need a specific 6800 FD for a Compact Chain Set or is there just one for all FD. Stay safe out there.
Everything in this lesson work great with my emonda, but in the case of the giant advanced pro of my 2 boys, the cable doesn't work well when I insert it in this direction, I mean going for the pin and rounding the right part of the screw, the shifter get stuck, even switching the pin off or on, it shifter go very Hard, but, yes, but, if I change the direction of the cable in the dellaiure, running at the left side of the screw and not in the right of it, everything work perfect. Why? I don't know.
It's the angle of the cable as it goes from under the bottom bracket to the derailleur. If the angle is too shallow, it's difficult to get that initial derailleur movement from the shifter. Sounds like you got it dialed in though!
Same here. If I followed Shimano instructions, with the pin inwards and routing the cable left of the pin/right of the bolt, the shifter would be very hard to get going from the lowest position. Then, like you, I ignored the pin and routed the cable to the right side of the bolt, which gives more leverage. But that limits the total travel, from the lowest to the highest position. It had to be set so it just about cleared the chain in the lowest position, and therefore it would just about clear the chain in the highest position. Very low margin for error, and in reality I would keep going back and forth from rubbing at the top, to rubbing at the bottom. Very frustrating to adjust. Then I machined a 'micro' pulley, which I mounted on top of the pin. Now the cable is mounted in the correct manner, routed around the pin with the pulley (which offsets it about 2mm inboard), and clamped to the right side of the bolt. That's about enough offset to give better fulcrum to the shift lever, but not so much that it limits the travel range.
I have tried Everything with my 6800 FD with a cannondale spiderring . At least a Hundred times but it Never Works Really well. When the Low trimm Works, then the high trimm doesnt. And Vice versa... either There is too much or too little cable Tension
@@JoeyMesa I got it Now. Guess what? Putting the cable on the Outter left, the "wrong" Side, ignoring the Switch, it Works perfectly... due to a bigger leverage. much less force to Shift and both trimm directions Work flawlessly... wow
@@JoeyMesa I got it Now. Guess what? Putting the cable on the Outter left, the "wrong" Side, ignoring the Switch, it Works perfectly... due to a bigger leverage. much less force to Shift and both trimm directions Work flawlessly... wow
Joey. Terrific explanation of how to assess and then adjust cable tension on a front derailleur. This video is probably the best one I have viewed. I would also agree that in regard to chain line the derailleur front plate may need to be kicked out a little. Great way to start the new year. Top job , once again thank you for passing on your knowledge. Take care !
Thanks!! I really appreciate your feedback!
Thank you so much, finally, someone knows how to adjust these modern derailleurs . My FD 4700, now works perfectly, and no inline tension needed. KB
Awesome!! You're very welcome and thanks for your feedback!
After watching so many guides regarding front derailleur, this is the only one that finally works for me. I've been adjusting the front derailleur of my tiagra 4700, before it was either barely or not shifting up. Also, it was hard to press the sti to shift up. Now, everything is smooth and easy to press the sti shifter to change gears. Thank you!
Great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback, I appreciate it!
Joey thank you so much for making this video. Great explanations and detail! For years I didn't know about the trick you explained of setting the low limit screw to move the derailleur far to the outside during setup to get the right cable tension. I always used a cable puller tool (I think Park Tools calls it a 4th hand tool?) but your method with the limit screw is so much easier. I've never seen that before, and I've watched at least 5 or 6 videos on the subject in the past while I was learning about how to make adjustments. Your video is really the best! I can't believe it only has 429 likes (as of Sep 2022) in three years. Awesome video, thank you!
You're very welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!!!
Top notch! As a side note I discovered by accident a 5700 FD can be made to work with 4700 levers. A bit touchy but did the job until 4700 mech arrived. Great video, I would never have found that screw or worked out the pin bit. Thank you
Sweet! Glad the video was helpful and thank you for your feedback!
Awesome video Joey absolutely brilliant. I've got dura ace 9000 and could never get it to work like I wanted but after following the procedure in you're video,bingo it works absolutely flawlessly and you don't even need a barrel adjuster.
Huge thanks for the content 😊.
Thanks Jeremy! I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!!!
This video is a god-sent as I have 1 bike with FD-5800 and 2 more bikes with FD-4700 at home for my kids (with flat bar shifter SL-RS700 and SL-4700 respectively). Now I know how to adjust the tension of the cable properly without dialing the barrel adjuster way too much. Thanks!
Awesome! You're welcome and thank you very much for the feedback, I really appreciate it!!!
Hey Joey, this is the first time I have ever commented on a youtube video. Just wanted to say thanks because I could not figure out how to create more tension on my FD. Your video is so easy to understand and you explain it so well. Thank you so much. Cheers Des from Melbourne AUS.
You're very welcome! Glad you got it figured out and thanks for taking the time to leave feedback, I appreciate it!
Same! Thanks so much for this video.
Probably the best video on the subject! Just what I needed to finish my recent build, thanks!
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Excellent video. One of the few tutorials that talk about the converter pin, nice one👍
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!
Great video, thank you! The knack of balancing the lower limit screw against the resting cable tension has me feeling stupid I didn't think of it! Additional thanks (as you sound North American) for using metric measurements. Cheers from Brisbane.
You’re welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback! Bikes have been using the metric system so long, it’s rare to find anything using SAE measurements anymore!
Finally somebody explainning it all.
This is the best video tutorial so far for 5800 105. It seems I'm the only poor guy on the net not having an Ultegra groupset 🤣
Thanks much!!
You're welcome! I'm glad you found the video helpful and I appreciate your feedback!
Really helpful video! Together with the shop manual I got my front derailleur adjusted nicely. Many thanks Joey!
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Thanks Joey, really excellent presentation by someone who has done this a few times!
My pleasure! Thank you for taking the time to leave feedback, I really appreciate it!
Thanks - I've had these mechs a few years but learned a couple of new things from this when trying to tweak my son's bike :)
I had problems in setting the Tiagra derailleur and found out that no matter how much I was pulling the cable before fixing it, there was always a tiny slack. Adding an in line adjuster solved this. Incidentally, I never had problems with in line adjusters getting loose or anything, in other bikes.
Also, I think the correct procedure is first setting the L and H limit screws (so that there is just a hair between the derailleur plates and the chain in the extreme positions), then install the cable. I would not use the L screw to recover the cable slack, that would mess up the entire setting.
Thank you so much for the video! You explained it so well and in so much detail, that helped a ton in fixing my messed up front derailleur :)
You're very welcome!
Thanks for the tip about screwing in the low limit screw. I had a chain break that screwed up the FD. I kept running into issues of not being able to upshift to the big ring. I thought I trashed my FD...turns out I just needed to set it up right. Thanks again!
You're welcome!
Glad to see someone has taken the time to show what difference the converter on/off positions make. I have 5700 but replaced the FD with a 5800. People said it wouldn't work, I said it would. It works flawlessly. Great little tip about overshooting the outer position a little more than usual regards the FD cage and the big ring. Another little tip is to jam a 6mm allen key between the FD where the spring is. It brings the FD out to more or less the correct position to make sure you have enough cable tension. I do have barrel adjusters at the downtube for my FD, so that helps to fine tune. What a lot of people don't realise is that there is a lot more cable tension required on the newer FD's compared to the older versions.
Top job, man!
Yes, you are 100% correct! I think the cable tension issue is the biggest setup mistake I see on these. Thank you for your feedback!!
I noticed you mentioned the cable tension thing in the description after watching the video, so I've basically repeated what you already stated ha!
Most welcome, bro. Just subbed, too.
Hi, I have a 2x Tiagra Shifter and have the weird problem that If I'm on the big chainring, I can shift down twice. No matter how much i fastened the cable while being on the big chainring, The shifter would always allow to shift down twice, which irritates me... My shifting was perfect for almost one year, then trouble began when the chain got stuck in parallel once inside the cage of the front dereilleur.... After that I needed a new one (FD-5800) and no matter how many times I tried it, it's almost impossible for me to fine tune it, cause it needs to much tension to get to the big chainring... It's either no problem switching from small to big, but then the chain has much contact to the fd while being at the 4th lowest gear or it's the other way around, the chain doesnt go onto the big chainring but I can perfectly switch all the gears in the back. Any tips/recommendations? Cause this annoys me for quiet some time... Thanks!
Hi mate, did you just replaced front derailleur 5700 to 5800 , what type shifters do you have , and what crankset?
I'm planning to put crankset 105 7000 with 5700 just wondering 🤔 if this will work.
@@rafaellop6332 Everything is 5700, apart from a 6800 Ultegra cassette and the 5800 FD. I don't think 7000 will work with 5700 as the pull ratio in the cables/shifters is different
Like everyone else, just want to say thanks for the video. Made setup much quicker than usual for me.
Glad it helped! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback, I appreciate it!
Great explanation! This video was very helpful in setting up my Shimano Tiagra 4700 FD. Thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks for your feedback!
I learned something today, never, ever adjusted the set screw to frame (I have a 4700 setup on both my bikes) to 'tighten' the wiggle. Never adjusted over the years on any groupset used. It answered the questions I had, thanks. Why not use cable clamp pliers to set the tension? I like to use them because it keeps the cable from getting tweaked during install...also, just for kicks and giggles, inline adjuster's are the bomb for final little tweakage, have them on both bikes, both sides...
Very nice explanation in details with all the hard time it takes.
Keep doing explained videos please!!!🚲👌👍
This is a great vid. My front mech was driving me round the bend. Found your vid and problem solved. Many thanks!
You're welcome!
I really want to thank you for that advice starting at 13:45 about taking the outer plate of the cage a few mm beyond flush with the ring. Otherwise you need vicegrips or to wind the cable around your hand to put enough tension on the cable when you tighten the clamp bolt. The Shimano install manual doesn't even tell you that the reason you take the low limit all the way over like that at the start is for the purpose of loading more tension on the cable. It just leaves you scratching your head. Probably varies by crankset, but on the Praxis Works cranks that came on my Fujis; i kicked the front of the plate out (rear in) just slightly so the chain doesn't rub on the outer plate when it's in high gear.
Yeah, there's always a few little tweaks you have to make depending on the combination. Thank you for your feedback!
Thank You for video, help me a lot in my 6800.
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Thanks for taking the time to explain this. The Shimano dealer manual is offline by the way :-/
Yeah, I noticed Shimano removed the dealer PDF instruction module, that's a bummer. Thanks for leaving feedback though, I really appreciate it!
O melhor vídeo a mostrar como a afinar, o desviador dianteiro, ganhou um subscritor de Portugal, obrigado.
Great help, many thanks for posting.
You're welcome and thank you for commenting!!
Thanks it really saved me.
You're welcome!
thank you... for your excellent video.
You're welcome and thanks for your kind words!
Nice video, many misteries have been solved just watching it :-) thanks
Great to hear! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
Good work. Getting the tension right on these cable is a nightmare which your technique solved. Thanks
You’re welcome!!!
Thanks for the helpfull video !
You bet!
Really a fantastic video Joey, it's nice to have the exact same derailleur, it's just too tricky to learn off of a different derailleur. I had the wire the wrong way lol. i was taught to always put wire around in the direction the screw is turning so that when you tighten the screw the wire tightens a little and doesn't loosen. This is backwards, the wire is wrapped the other way so when you tighten the screw the wire loosens. It is raining and my drive train is clean so i will wait. I did some more adjustments, put a link back in my chain, moved the derailleur down a little more and turned it a bit and wrapped the wire. I still think there is a tension problem, i have internal routing. I might replace the cable and oil it. I don't like the turn around bolts it makes under and near the bb. thx again.
i also don't like where the derailleur is located, it is further back than yours, it is a bar clamp. In low gear the cable clamp bolt is really close to my tire, which is the widest i can put on my bike, 45mm width.
Yeah, that's another reason they changed the style of the derailleur to add more tire clearance. If you want to run a wider tire, the newer style is cross compatible (105-FD R7000, Ultegra FD R8000, and Dura Ace FD R9100) and will function the same with your existing shifter.
@@JoeyMesa I almost have it dialed in. Sunny day finally, short test drive, it's shifting much better, upshifts not quite there, but will make it in the higher rear gears. I adjusted the limit screw but dont want to adjust the cable again so i will try the barrel. If the barrel is not moving the wire much, is there a reason for that? I am also still waiting for my bb tool so i can fully tighten the new bb up. It is hand tightened with glove and rags fairy hard.
Even following everything on video. And pause and go each step, my derailleur up front still don’t wanna work at all. And it go to the point that the cable ended up messing up front shifter lever as well. Cable got jammed as well. I had new wire and new cable on fuji norcom 2.5 straight. I’m about to give up and roll single up front at this point
HI, good video thanks. QUESTION at 18:00 I have a problem. I cannot back off the lower limit screw enough to stop the chain rubbing on the FD black block. I also do NOT have the gear cable connected yet. Just the FD mounted and 2mm off the large chain ring and aligned parallel with the big chainring (slightly outboard). I have backed off the limit screws and the frame support allen key BUT the chain rubs in the lower 2 gears. Cranks are 7900 FD is 6800 and the frame is Pinarello F8 2016 model braise on. ideas?
These derailleurs only allow a certain amount of range. Try turning in the high limit screw a little and it will allow the low end to go a little further in. These limit screws are different than the conventional high/low limit screws used on conventional derailleurs. They're basically the same as the limit settings on Di2 derailleurs.
Best vid on this! A real person going through it properly. Step by step.
I love GCN but just reading shimano installation guide to the camera doesn't help.
I've already fucking read that!! That's why I'm on RUclips, it didn't help.
Sub'd btw great vid
Thanks Lucas! I appreciate you taking the time to leave feedback!
Hi Joey,
not sure I'm understanding what you do in the video, I'm trying to set my front derailleur FD-9000.
1) first position of the left shifter (all way down to low)
2) release the cable from derailleur
3) screw all the way in the barrel adjuster to have max slack off the cable
3) check the converter side
4) set the L-limit screw to have the outer cage 3mm out from the big chainring
5) fix the cable in the derailler
now how we will set the L-limit screw and most important the H-limit screw (why this part is not mentioned?)
In this way I have the chain rubbing against the outer cage on the 53-11 and on the inner with the 36-28...
Thank you, have a marry christmas mate!
On step 4, turn the L screw in until the outer cage is directly above the big chainring. If you take a flat plane, like the side of an allen wrench, and lay it on the side of the big chainring, it should be just touching the side of the outer cage as well, but I've found going a little further out (I believe I said 3mm past the big ring in the video, which works well especially if you're installing a new cable). You should have a 1-3mm gap between the top of the chainring teeth and the bottom of the outer derailleur cage. You only set the L-limit screw temporarily to attach the cable as it puts the derailleur in the ideal position to do so.
Once the cable is tight, you back the L-limit screw off so there is a very small gap between the inner cage and the chain when you're in the 36-28. You can set the high limit screw by having the chain in the 11t cog in the rear and manually shifting the front derailleur onto the big ring. I do this at the 22:15 point in the video as an example. As you're extending the derailleur as far as it will go, just adjust the high limit screw until there is a small gap between the chain and the outer cage. Once that is set, if the chain rubs while in the big ring -11 combo, you need to add more cable tension with the barrel adjuster.
Joey Mesa super! I’ll try this afternoon following your tips! thanks again
Hi I changed my 50T tiagra chainring to a 46T BBB which is supposed to be compatible. I lowed the front deraillier to keep it close to the chainring, new chain, new 10 speed cassette, same 34T tiagra lower ring (verified mount orientation correct). Previously 4000 miles of commuting and in rain, zero problem downshifting, chain always dropped right onto the lower ring. Now chain lands inbetween the rings and just slides. Turning the crank slowly by hand the chain lands at an angle on the lower ring. I also moved the limit screw so the derailler goes too far to the left, same result. Any ideas? tia
Typically the issue you're describing (neutraling) happens when the space between the chainrings is too wide. Normally I would suggest the small ring mounting orientation, as it's an easy mistake to mount it backwards, but since you verified it's correct, my guess is the aftermarket 46T chainring is not comparable with your system.
@@JoeyMesait looks like the chain doesn't fall between the two rings, it just sits partly on the teeth, at an angle, and can't catch so it slips. Somehow i got the downshifting to work fine. Upshifting is the problem. As long as i'm in smaller gears in the back it's fine. My front derailleur is not going all the way outboard. The furthest it gets, as it sits in high gear up front, i can push the derailleur outward more - so it's not the limit screws. I can't seem to get it there and still have my derailleur go far enough inward to downshift. grrrr. I did clean it pretty good but i didn't take it apart or off the bike. You think maybe my front shifter needs some work? Thx.
Has anyone else noticed the derailleur has a very narrow channel for the chain. Caused by the "lip" at the front of the derailleur? For example the outer plate is further outside the chain ring, because the actual chain guide determines where the chain is sitting. (about 5mm inside the line of the actual outer plate there is a guide). Also went through the pin options, it works much better attaching the cable round from the left clock wise over the top bolt
This is by far the most informative video, better than park tool or GCN, my only question is do I absolutely need the backer plate and if so, where can I get it
Thanks Joey. I cannot tell you how many times I have viewed this and that is only due to my incompetence rather than your instructions. At least I can keep referring back to this as I attempt yet again to set it up. Quick question do you need a specific 6800 FD for a Compact Chain Set or is there just one for all FD. Stay safe out there.
One fits all
@@durianriders Thanks DR
Everything in this lesson work great with my emonda, but in the case of the giant advanced pro of my 2 boys, the cable doesn't work well when I insert it in this direction, I mean going for the pin and rounding the right part of the screw, the shifter get stuck, even switching the pin off or on, it shifter go very Hard, but, yes, but, if I change the direction of the cable in the dellaiure, running at the left side of the screw and not in the right of it, everything work perfect.
Why? I don't know.
It's the angle of the cable as it goes from under the bottom bracket to the derailleur. If the angle is too shallow, it's difficult to get that initial derailleur movement from the shifter. Sounds like you got it dialed in though!
Same here. If I followed Shimano instructions, with the pin inwards and routing the cable left of the pin/right of the bolt, the shifter would be very hard to get going from the lowest position. Then, like you, I ignored the pin and routed the cable to the right side of the bolt, which gives more leverage. But that limits the total travel, from the lowest to the highest position. It had to be set so it just about cleared the chain in the lowest position, and therefore it would just about clear the chain in the highest position. Very low margin for error, and in reality I would keep going back and forth from rubbing at the top, to rubbing at the bottom. Very frustrating to adjust. Then I machined a 'micro' pulley, which I mounted on top of the pin. Now the cable is mounted in the correct manner, routed around the pin with the pulley (which offsets it about 2mm inboard), and clamped to the right side of the bolt. That's about enough offset to give better fulcrum to the shift lever, but not so much that it limits the travel range.
I have tried Everything with my 6800 FD with a cannondale spiderring . At least a Hundred times but it Never Works Really well. When the Low trimm Works, then the high trimm doesnt. And Vice versa... either There is too much or too little cable Tension
Yeah, the sweet spot cable tension wise is pretty small on these. Sometimes an inline barrel adjuster helps.
@@JoeyMesa I got it Now. Guess what? Putting the cable on the Outter left, the "wrong" Side, ignoring the Switch, it Works perfectly... due to a bigger leverage. much less force to Shift and both trimm directions Work flawlessly... wow
@@JoeyMesa I got it Now. Guess what? Putting the cable on the Outter left, the "wrong" Side, ignoring the Switch, it Works perfectly... due to a bigger leverage. much less force to Shift and both trimm directions Work flawlessly... wow
Yep, putting the cable at the left of the screw fixed my problem too, in the correct way I got a shifter stuck, very Hard to move.
a "quick video?"
This wasn't hugely helpful. Why didn't you use the tool?
You werent listening, he says he does not have it. Do better.