@@amituna7903 its not the fluff.. its the fact that if you wick it away on a paper towel you are ripping all the water out of the brush and leaving only the pigment which does not hold to well to minis. giving you a weird texture or just no paint at all.
@@max16 thank you for the explanation. I was wondering why my glazes the other day was SO awful. Kept getting weird tide marks or nothing at all. I shall try again.
I started figuring out a little bit of this the night before last when painting (by accident I assure you). This really helps affirming I was on the right track and what tweaks I need to make to move it forward. Thank You!!!
Just a tip I found out recently . I see that you're using a paper towel to draw out the excess water and glaze. I found that it's a learning curve (what isn't) , but to alleviate that curve using a pad of post it notes draws out enough without quickly drawing out too much glaze.
I prefer atist water colour paper as it has no fluff and wicks more consistently. They are faily cheap and last ages and after long use look like and awesome Jackson Pollock. Also I think when talking about "smooth" finishes its really important to talk drying time and not "fideling' the paint i.e. going over wet paint on the mini. This becomes particulalry important with lighter colours like whites and yellows. Laying paint on the "classic" art school style i.e. pull the stroke towards you for base colour blocking is important too. Obviously this changes when creating effects like glasing were your lifting off there you want to deposit the most pigment or when stipeling etc. Even when using these techniques, holding the mini to your advantage and using the brush to paint towards you is good practice. Honestly watching paint litterally dry was the THING that transformed my painting to the next level. The pff pfff pff technique during glasing was a whole level up in smoothness.
@@selkieofthesea2664 Cold press fine grain, 300gms celluose as its just scrap paper to me in the end. not a keeper but I know the performance I get from it. its real benifit to me is the lack of threads and fine fluff that tissue paper can give off. I wouldnt recomend cotton press as its too expensive for this technique in the cost/benifit sense.
Should warn you if you want one, get it now because it's a seasonal Halloween miniature only sold during Halloween week (which means the first two weeks of November).
I prefer doing it on my hand :D I used to do it with paper towels and I also added a plastic tray primed with the same primer I use on the mini. I find it is much easier to control the moisture content of my brush by using my own skin. Somehow the capillarity of human skin is... Limited? It absorbs differently than paper towel - much slower so I find it better to just make lines on my thumb or on the back of my hand :D I often try it on the primed plastic tray or the handle of the mini - which I also like to prime so the paint behaves in the same manner as it would on the mini :D
What you mention about airbrushing - I use this method to fix errors I make. I usually do the skin first on minis. Well. Depends, but in most cases skin tends to be the deepest. When I make a mistake, like touch the belly, face, etc with eg.: Black paint on my brush, I usually do this kind of glazing. It works amazingly for translucent stuff like stockings / fishnet clothes, etc :D
funny i been doing this technique for awhile now , i kinda just came up with it myself as i come from an fine art background. i really like this style of painting, i think also doing it roughly can also give some cool effects for metal textures ext.
With this method, how much working time do you have with the paint on brush before it starts to dry? I've tried similar things before and struggled a bit because when I wicked so much paint off the brush, what remained started to dry very quickly
What I experience when working thin and in small lines is that some colors handle this better than others. Especially white(ish) hobby paints give me a headache sometimes when it looks like some white pigments are big enough to be visible "small chunks". This does not happen with artist paints, artist brand titanium white or zinc white, so I think it might be chalk, but I never notice that on RUclips.
Vince Venturella (a very good resource!) mentions this in his videos - glazing dark colours over lights is much more forgiving and less splotchy than the opposite. Titania in white/lights is the cause of the usightly strokes when using light colours.
So when you say glaze drawing, are you implying a "dragging" of the pigment with the brush. Like over a harsh sketch pattern below? Rather then drawing lots of lines in a pen/pencil way. Am I getting that right? I always wondered how you pro's went from the harsh volumetric sketches to smooth blend transition. Thanks for explaining it in such a great quick Video!
What paintbrush are you using in that video? I bough this sable brush but it has quite a bit of give to it, your brush seems to have more structure and Im wondering where i could get one
Zumikito: "I'm going to teach you layering." Me: "I don't wanna play with these other miniture RUclipss anymore." * Drops them into the trash like Andy throwing Woody away meme. *
Practice mostly Keeping a bit of moisture on the brush (that's why the paper must be wet/damp). Looks easy on the video but it's really tricky as it also depends on the temperature and humidity/dryness of the roo m you are painting in, which Zumikito doesn't mention. The dryer the room, the more times you'll need to repeat the process because the paint will dry on the brush
Great video. I always advocate for using a damp or sometimes even a wet kitchen/paper towel. Dry ones can sometimes pick up tiny bits of fluff and grain up your paint. Top tip for anyone reading this. never use a regular tissue, that will break apart super easily on your brush. Kitchen roll is stronger and denser
Want an easier way….retarder & matte medium 50/50 mix (call that slo-dri, your colour. Some patience and a hairdryer. This is how we as fine art artists, paint. A great example is probably the artist Greg ‘Craola’ Simkins. Only difference is we usually use canvas or board and your transferring that technique to miniature. It’s cumbersome but the blend is flawless once you have the technique down. Think of it like…having your acrylic act like oils because of the slow-dri
Dont misunderstand or please don t understand it another way round, but i like it rough lmao ! It make miniatures kind of less realistic so in a way prettier
Perfectly smooth blends are impressive... but I can't help but find them boring visually? Like, I see Golden Demon pieces and get amazed by the technical prowess on display, but ultimately - especially given how that seems to be the go to style - it gets so bland... I want different styles! I want wild brushstrokes and surprising colours and things I haven't seen already!
Controversial, but i much prefer the rough blending to the fancy, clean one. It feels like it has more personality to me and reminds you that it's painted. But that's just me
I have to be 100% honest here. I DESPISE SMOOTH PAINT JOBS! Looking at the video's thumbnail, I prefer the rough side so much more than the smooth side it's not even comparable. I'd rather get a video about how to achieve that in a quick and dirty way.
I greatly value your knowledge, but unfortunately, the "bait-pause-reveal-repeat" presentation style doesn’t resonate with me. I can easily recall the lessons they share when I see other RUclipsrs' thumbnails. However, with your thumbnails, even after multiple viewings, I struggle to remember the content. While this might lead to me rewatching, I’ve realized that the approach isn’t working for me, and as a result, I’ve found myself avoiding your videos altogether.
The videos are great. Bu the sexualized comments on a lot of the videos are starting to turn me off. I get that it’s for humor, but they add up to be a little inappropriate imho.
El 95% del trabajo lo hiciste con el aerógrafo. Se supone que es una técnica para los que no tienen aerógrafo, y la demostrás usando aerógrafo. Cuál es el sentido?
Espera, que!? ¿Se supone que es para los que no tienen aerografo? ...porqueeee...??? Creo que lo has supuesto tu y ya, compañero. 😅 Ni en el título del video, ni el propio Zumikito especifican que la técnica es para quien no tenga aerografo, el video trata de como refinar las transiciones (un pequeño truco) con el pincel. Dicho esto, el casco del marine parte de una capa base sin transiciones, bien podría ser a pincel o a spray: simplemente en vez de fundir capa tras capa, hace un boceto de luz duro, y lo suaviza a pincel con la técnica que describe que es, dibujar (trazos, con la punta) en consistencia de veladura en lugar de aplicar la veladura con el lateral del pincel depositando el pigmento entre el corte de capas de una pasada. Adicionalmente, en la figura aerografiada, está construyendo luces. Lo aerografiado es una capa base. En ambos casos, es un proceso de refinado de los acabados, suavizar el corte entre capas, no "como pintar para los que no tenemos aerografo". El aerograzo agiliza muchísimo, pero no es una "pistola de talento". Lo que hace un aerografo lo piuede hacer un pincel. Hasta donde llega un pincel, no puede llegar un aero. No te quepa duda 😊 Espero que más o menos te haya ayudado a comprender que es lo que viste en el video. Un saludo!
Do you want more "explained in 5 minutes" type of content?
I use short videos for references when im working on a project, so I really appreciate these smaller videos that are super to the point
Yes pls
Always super useful. You're the best, zumi ❤
Absolutely!
❤
The "the paper towel must be damped" part is something most tutorials fail to mention, kudos to you for doing it.
Yeah, I find it easier to roll the brush into a tip on a damp paper towel without picking up any bits of fluff.
@@amituna7903 its not the fluff.. its the fact that if you wick it away on a paper towel you are ripping all the water out of the brush and leaving only the pigment which does not hold to well to minis. giving you a weird texture or just no paint at all.
@max16 yeah that too. But my point also applies. You can wick onto a dry paper towel without losing all the moisture if you dab it more gently
Having tried this a few times, never having it work properly, I never realized a damp towel was what I was missing 😅
@@max16 thank you for the explanation. I was wondering why my glazes the other day was SO awful. Kept getting weird tide marks or nothing at all. I shall try again.
0:20
Wow, that nail looks ultra realistic 😮
ROFL
He's pretty good at what he does, huh
Some dude is staring at my phone 4:41 while I watch this video on the train. He must be into minis painting too
should've asked him
Maybe he just really liked the "I love edging" shirt
Maybe he was into YOU.
Saw the thumbnail, thought "oh the rough one looks very good!" and then saw it's a video to help us achieve the smooth one. Well, thanks anyway!
Me too!
Mine are all rough 😂
Nice to see a tutorial focus on the amount of paint when glazing. Suspect that is what has been messing it up for me so thank you for this.
"Breast stroke"
I see what you did there.
I started figuring out a little bit of this the night before last when painting (by accident I assure you). This really helps affirming I was on the right track and what tweaks I need to make to move it forward. Thank You!!!
What you often forget when watching those videos is that, unlike the painter, you have highly unprecise gorilla-grade fingers.
Incredible, thank you. This is one of the best painting videos out there and its changing my painting game. Much appreciated.
Love the 5 minute format, this really helped explain something I'd half stumbled in to. Awsome.
Thanks
Great video ❤ we want more like this 🎉😂 thanks
Yes!
More 5 minute videos!
Great video. I use a dense sponge, slightly damp, for wicking rather than paper towel, and I find that works better for me.
As a Fan of the Clones Wars Show. I actually love roughly blended sceem on the thum nail. But thanks for the advice, most of this I plan to use.
I think you unlocked something in my head with this video appreciate it:)
I really missed your videos master, please do more !!!
I've kinda done that with my previous minis, using yours, Angel GiraldeZ and Trovarions painting videos/examples. Thanks for showing it on a video.
This was the best advice I've ever saw! Thank's man this will push my work on step further!
Dude! This is breaking through for me! Thanks for the legend level up!!
this makes me want to take out my unpainted mini's and begin painting again! great video!!
You know that's the best compliment you can dish out to someone teaching, right ? 😊 hope you get back to painting
can't believe a small discussion about a moist paper towel was had in the discord, and zumi was like "imma make a whole video about it" 😂
That shirt got you a subscriber today 😂😂 you’re a god bro! 😎
Might I add that this technique also works great with stippling instead of drawing the lines, or in some situations better.
Really cool video. Really like what you produce : clear and easy to understand. Thank.
Just a tip I found out recently .
I see that you're using a paper towel to draw out the excess water and glaze.
I found that it's a learning curve (what isn't) , but to alleviate that curve using a pad of post it notes draws out enough without quickly drawing out too much glaze.
Only done 5 models so far but getting the amount of paint and consistency right can be challenging
Great Video! This technique will definitely be a game changer!
I prefer atist water colour paper as it has no fluff and wicks more consistently. They are faily cheap and last ages and after long use look like and awesome Jackson Pollock. Also I think when talking about "smooth" finishes its really important to talk drying time and not "fideling' the paint i.e. going over wet paint on the mini. This becomes particulalry important with lighter colours like whites and yellows. Laying paint on the "classic" art school style i.e. pull the stroke towards you for base colour blocking is important too. Obviously this changes when creating effects like glasing were your lifting off there you want to deposit the most pigment or when stipeling etc. Even when using these techniques, holding the mini to your advantage and using the brush to paint towards you is good practice. Honestly watching paint litterally dry was the THING that transformed my painting to the next level. The pff pfff pff technique during glasing was a whole level up in smoothness.
By fairly cheap are you referring to the celluose based ones? Because my cotton paper isn't always cheap. Also, cold press or hot press?
@@selkieofthesea2664 Would love to see an answer to this! Always looking for more little things to acquire for hobbying.
@@selkieofthesea2664 Cold press fine grain, 300gms celluose as its just scrap paper to me in the end. not a keeper but I know the performance I get from it. its real benifit to me is the lack of threads and fine fluff that tissue paper can give off. I wouldnt recomend cotton press as its too expensive for this technique in the cost/benifit sense.
What is the source of the demon girl figure? Asking for a friend... so that I can also get one for them.
She's from Kingdom Death. You can find the figure in their main website.
I will update the description for others to see - it's called Erza of Dedheim from Kingdom Death
@@Zumikito Oh watching again you mentioned it in the video anyway. Thanks for the info!
Should warn you if you want one, get it now because it's a seasonal Halloween miniature only sold during Halloween week (which means the first two weeks of November).
when you say translucent paints, do you mean that its a special paint or that its watered down a lot? Do you have a favorite brand of paint?
I prefer doing it on my hand :D I used to do it with paper towels and I also added a plastic tray primed with the same primer I use on the mini. I find it is much easier to control the moisture content of my brush by using my own skin. Somehow the capillarity of human skin is... Limited? It absorbs differently than paper towel - much slower so I find it better to just make lines on my thumb or on the back of my hand :D I often try it on the primed plastic tray or the handle of the mini - which I also like to prime so the paint behaves in the same manner as it would on the mini :D
What you mention about airbrushing - I use this method to fix errors I make. I usually do the skin first on minis. Well. Depends, but in most cases skin tends to be the deepest.
When I make a mistake, like touch the belly, face, etc with eg.: Black paint on my brush, I usually do this kind of glazing.
It works amazingly for translucent stuff like stockings / fishnet clothes, etc :D
I'm gonna keep your attention, :'D I am dying Brother :'D If someone stumbles upon this I doubt they'd go away :D Come on :D
gosh, priming plastic tray is such a good idea, why didn't it ever occur to me?! Btw, also've been testing paint on my own arm hh
funny i been doing this technique for awhile now , i kinda just came up with it myself as i come from an fine art background. i really like this style of painting, i think also doing it roughly can also give some cool effects for metal textures ext.
With this method, how much working time do you have with the paint on brush before it starts to dry? I've tried similar things before and struggled a bit because when I wicked so much paint off the brush, what remained started to dry very quickly
Was going to ask what brushes you were using. Will just check out the video you mentioned at the end, lol.
Another awesome tutorial, thanks!
best 5 Minutes of the day!
What I experience when working thin and in small lines is that some colors handle this better than others. Especially white(ish) hobby paints give me a headache sometimes when it looks like some white pigments are big enough to be visible "small chunks". This does not happen with artist paints, artist brand titanium white or zinc white, so I think it might be chalk, but I never notice that on RUclips.
Vince Venturella (a very good resource!) mentions this in his videos - glazing dark colours over lights is much more forgiving and less splotchy than the opposite. Titania in white/lights is the cause of the usightly strokes when using light colours.
This won't work for me, because my normal handshaking would totally destroy any efforts in this direction. Amazing what a steady hand you have.
So you dont have to mix paints to create glazes?
by doing this, every paintjob will take hours and hours... i already love it 😂
So when you say glaze drawing, are you implying a "dragging" of the pigment with the brush. Like over a harsh sketch pattern below? Rather then drawing lots of lines in a pen/pencil way. Am I getting that right? I always wondered how you pro's went from the harsh volumetric sketches to smooth blend transition. Thanks for explaining it in such a great quick Video!
Somehow you succeeded at keeping my attention. But I forgot what this video was about.
Did you say brush strokes or breast strokes at 4:16, I really don't know ^^
Haha, I came to say the same thing 😂
So much paint in the ferrule of such a nice brush! Is there some way you fix that?
does it matter that you have so much paint in the ferrule?
Thank you for sharing this! 😊
What paintbrush are you using in that video? I bough this sable brush but it has quite a bit of give to it, your brush seems to have more structure and Im wondering where i could get one
I use lens cleaning rags to remove excess from brushes
0:10 could you ummm... may I- may... w-what's that mini...? just out of pure curiosity...
I don’t know the name, but I believe they are from Kingdom Death Monsters.
Zumikito: "I'm going to teach you layering."
Me: "I don't wanna play with these other miniture RUclipss anymore." * Drops them into the trash like Andy throwing Woody away meme. *
For Christmas this year, I wish for Zumikito to pronounce "result" correctly
The paint at the base of the brush is gives me feelings of anxiety and unease. XD
Thanks man!
A video on a monday morning?! Don't mind if I do. Thanks cutie
Cool video!
This was great!
How do you prevent brush-strokes without using too-little paint?
Practice mostly
Keeping a bit of moisture on the brush (that's why the paper must be wet/damp).
Looks easy on the video but it's really tricky as it also depends on the temperature and humidity/dryness of the roo m you are painting in, which Zumikito doesn't mention.
The dryer the room, the more times you'll need to repeat the process because the paint will dry on the brush
Great video! Thanks
Is there any special glue you used to stick the head to the clip? Or was it just superglue?
Hey dude, how do you know where to paint reflectionsl?
Great video. I always advocate for using a damp or sometimes even a wet kitchen/paper towel. Dry ones can sometimes pick up tiny bits of fluff and grain up your paint.
Top tip for anyone reading this. never use a regular tissue, that will break apart super easily on your brush. Kitchen roll is stronger and denser
how about mid-tier toilet paper? (not kidding)
hey, what brushes are you using ?
Those models have amazing.... eyes.
Oh I accidentally did this the other day. Happy accidents
Magnificent .. again.. cheers 😄
All the content!
Want an easier way….retarder & matte medium 50/50 mix (call that slo-dri, your colour. Some patience and a hairdryer. This is how we as fine art artists, paint. A great example is probably the artist Greg ‘Craola’ Simkins. Only difference is we usually use canvas or board and your transferring that technique to miniature. It’s cumbersome but the blend is flawless once you have the technique down. Think of it like…having your acrylic act like oils because of the slow-dri
Sorry i got distracted, what was the topic again ? The purple lady ? Probably.
This sounds a lot like dry brushing, but with a smaller brush.
Thanks bro!
Link to product doesn't work.
Consider my attention, kept
I'm giving a like for "keeping my attention...somehow" ;)
ah so there is now a name to the technique that i have been using 🤣
I discovered this technique by accident. I always just called it glaze sketching
doesn't that technique ruin your brush pretty fast?
Dont misunderstand or please don t understand it another way round, but i like it rough lmao ! It make miniatures kind of less realistic so in a way prettier
El primer comentario en español, por que?... Por que no ? Great video :B and greetings from spain, I'll try this in my superioria repentia!
Nunca es tarde si la picha es buena 😅👍
Quite the promise.
that brush is not gonna last for much if you treat it like that!
It is a sad day in Minis Painting town when even the content creators like Zum need to pander to gooners to keep afloat...
Fuck all that, where u get that Tee from 😂😂
this is just glazing..
What a model tho
🤣 its all about the focus, nice
Big Ones 😊
Perfectly smooth blends are impressive... but I can't help but find them boring visually? Like, I see Golden Demon pieces and get amazed by the technical prowess on display, but ultimately - especially given how that seems to be the go to style - it gets so bland... I want different styles! I want wild brushstrokes and surprising colours and things I haven't seen already!
You had me at hello 😅😅
Controversial, but i much prefer the rough blending to the fancy, clean one. It feels like it has more personality to me and reminds you that it's painted. But that's just me
I have to be 100% honest here. I DESPISE SMOOTH PAINT JOBS!
Looking at the video's thumbnail, I prefer the rough side so much more than the smooth side it's not even comparable.
I'd rather get a video about how to achieve that in a quick and dirty way.
now just to get a brush with a point thats good enough for this hehe
Okay thats funny, posted this before the end of the vid
Watch your brueststrokes😂
Amazing tits, I mean TIPS!!! Thank you!!
got it. Learn "magic".
The rough unblended helmet has like 100000 times more sauce than the blended one. All those blends are extremely high skilled but look so boring
I greatly value your knowledge, but unfortunately, the "bait-pause-reveal-repeat" presentation style doesn’t resonate with me. I can easily recall the lessons they share when I see other RUclipsrs' thumbnails. However, with your thumbnails, even after multiple viewings, I struggle to remember the content. While this might lead to me rewatching, I’ve realized that the approach isn’t working for me, and as a result, I’ve found myself avoiding your videos altogether.
The videos are great. Bu the sexualized comments on a lot of the videos are starting to turn me off. I get that it’s for humor, but they add up to be a little inappropriate imho.
The boooooobs!
get an Airbrush? ;)
El 95% del trabajo lo hiciste con el aerógrafo. Se supone que es una técnica para los que no tienen aerógrafo, y la demostrás usando aerógrafo. Cuál es el sentido?
Espera, que!? ¿Se supone que es para los que no tienen aerografo? ...porqueeee...??? Creo que lo has supuesto tu y ya, compañero. 😅 Ni en el título del video, ni el propio Zumikito especifican que la técnica es para quien no tenga aerografo, el video trata de como refinar las transiciones (un pequeño truco) con el pincel.
Dicho esto, el casco del marine parte de una capa base sin transiciones, bien podría ser a pincel o a spray: simplemente en vez de fundir capa tras capa, hace un boceto de luz duro, y lo suaviza a pincel con la técnica que describe que es, dibujar (trazos, con la punta) en consistencia de veladura en lugar de aplicar la veladura con el lateral del pincel depositando el pigmento entre el corte de capas de una pasada.
Adicionalmente, en la figura aerografiada, está construyendo luces. Lo aerografiado es una capa base.
En ambos casos, es un proceso de refinado de los acabados, suavizar el corte entre capas, no "como pintar para los que no tenemos aerografo".
El aerograzo agiliza muchísimo, pero no es una "pistola de talento". Lo que hace un aerografo lo piuede hacer un pincel. Hasta donde llega un pincel, no puede llegar un aero. No te quepa duda 😊
Espero que más o menos te haya ayudado a comprender que es lo que viste en el video. Un saludo!