this is the best video on how to diagnose no crank no start. Just got quoted about 2K from my shop just for the diagnosis. I am going to tow the car to my house just start going at it myself.
I want to thank you. Because you are a life save. After many hours of searching for the issues of no cranking and battery terminal changing, it turned out that the white terminal wire prove to me that the starter is good. Here's what occurred next, I cleaned the wiring harnesses and now my BMW beamer starts right up like a champ. Once again, thank you. Andy Grintatelly
Hi, Aivisu. I like the way you diagnosed this BMW, I found it to be very practical and to the point, you must have tons of experience with BMWs. I watched hundreds of videos and I must say your video impressed me the most. I thank you for your awesome presentation and I hope that will help me with my 2007 BMW problem No crank No start. God bless you to be able of keeping up the good work.
Great video! Thanks so much, because I've been searching RUclips with no success for how to hotwire the starter from the engine bay in order to run compression testing on each cylinder one-at-a-time. This is fantastic!!!!!! Keywords to add to you video to get more hits: Hotwire BMW, External Starter Switch BMW, Remote Start, Engine Bay Starter test.
Wow I love your practical works, see most times people tend not to do it right. I find this earlier and I will continue following your encouraging works. This one's a plus.
Has the same issue. Replaced a fuel replay and everything worked. I was going crazy checking everything. Replaced the ground wires, checked the all the modules same result. Nice vid
thanks for sharing this. I see this question asked a lot and never really get any follow ups on success/what happened. the topic starter either doesn't figure it out or figures it out then doesn't share what happened. thanks for doing this all for free all of our wallets burning.
You sir, are a life saver. I was losing my mind after getting a new cas. Still not sure why even with a new CAS I experience this issue, but now i am not chasing a starter or alternator. Hopefully I figure out what besides a CAS is causing my issue.
@@aivisu8865 I still dont have a permanent solution. Its an old car so have not investment in a permanent solution. I have two wires connected similar to the way you show that I join when I need to start the car. Its a pain in the butt, but works well when I do occasionally take the car out.
LOL almost had a heart attack! I never used to put my car in gear until my friend said i should instead of relying on just the parking brake. New to manual if you cant tell 😂
The one I’m working on is a hybrid so it has no starter. The hybrid inverter sits on top of engine so I can’t access the injectors or coils to see if they are firing. What’s more is that I can only crank it once to do the check then I will have to wait for 30 minutes to an hour to be able to crank it again one time.
Good video. Nice that you showed where the correct wires are. Of course a already replaced my starter motor, and just about every other damn thing on the car its an N54 335I E92.
Yeah I found out my starter cable runs all the way in the back trunk connecting to the Terminal Distribution Fuse Junction Plate and that's why my suv wouldn't start. I tested all the positive cables and found out one wasn't hot which was the starter cable.
Sir why did you replace the starter you could use a multimeter and put it in the cable control in the front and if it lights up it’s your starter if it’s doesn’t it’s your fuse box or ignition switch or something else
I did your test and it works and turns over fine. I sent the CAS out to be repaired and they sent it back saying its completely fine. Now i dont know what to do. I unplugged the ibs sensor. still nothing. I can bump start the car and it runs, but it has hesitation when pushing the clutch in when shifting, and my brake lights are on all the time and flicker. Any ideas lads? Thanks
I’m working on a X6 active hybrid. Hybrid cars are a bit more tricky. For example if the engine is not able to start it will throw a hybrid code as well. When I press the start button the hybrid battery cranks the engine but does not start then it throws the hybrid code. At the same time scanner throw an immobilizer code (A103). I notice there is no wire on pin 20 of the CAS. I don’t if someone messed with it or that’s how it is supposed to be. Instead the wire coming from the DME is on pin 30 of the CAS.
Nice work mate. I have a 335 that is not communicating with the dsc. Think a relay or fuse has blown when the fuel pump tried to prime with the fuel rail removed for a valve cover gasket change. Possibly the junction box. Have run ISTA. Now I need to figure out where the wires are that it's telling me to check. Hopefully the issue is easy to fix.
Thanks I appreciate it! This same car also had a dsc issue that was caused by the previous owner removing the fuses for dsc and 4x4 because he thought it would make the car RWD. Heres a diagram fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html thats a good website for diagrams if you dont have the og chart in your glove box panel. This is why its very important to disconnect the battery when doing any engine work. But good for you doing your own repairs that's awesome! 👍 good luck bro
If I tried connecting the thing in the engine bay to the + terminal without the fuel pump plugged in, would it start? Need to just get my car home so I can check out the CAS module stuff on my own time instead of at a parking lot. Thanks!
Update: For some reason I had all the same issues (no crank, no start, no click, fuel pump priming, all lights and accessories working) but the starter wouldn't engage. Had code a0b4. I tried hot wiring the starter from the junction box under the hood and the starter engaged and when I went into the car to try to start it up, and it started up. Strange.... Has been working fine for the last 3 days now. Not sure what the issue was that it just required me to hotwire the starter Sharing for information incase it's useful for anyone else
@@TheFear37 After jumping it would work for 2 or 3 days and then go back to the same problem, just replaced starter and ground straps and it still won't start smh
I am having the same issue. I removed the clip, plugged in the copper wire and touched it to the B post and my starter only clicks. Does this mean my starter is shot?
I jus got a e90 09 328i and I hooked up subs and amp, after about a week after running them I lost all power completely , Im still getting power to the battery but none to the car at all. The first thing that went wrong was the clock would reset every time I got in and would go somewhere , the last time I started. I’ve been reading up and I feel like it’s the ibs but I’ve also been seeing it could be the fuse box and B wire , power distribution box , Or a fuse . Id really like to know exactly what it is so I know what I’m getting into and also whatever parts I’m going need.
Sounds like you might have blown a fuse, or something is drawing power. Disconnect your wire for a week and if the problem goes away then you have a power draw
@aivisu8865 thanks for that. I got rid of the subs lol but I'm back on this video again haha 2 years later im trying to diagnose my starter , battery is good but i go to press the start and it makes a single clicking sound kinda sounds like it's coming from the alternator, when you test it like in the video do I keep battery all hooked when testing it from pin 4 to positive
thanks tested your trick and no start opened up the cas and the board looks like new ive changed the ivm also and battery was on charger. tested all the fuses and all is good. question: is the jump clip suppose to get warm? i flatten a paper clip im guessing its the dreaded starter 05 645ci
hi i tested the starter like you demonstrated from the plug to the positive terminal in the engine bay. But now if i connect my battery the car has absolutely no power. No lights go on when i connect the battery
My car does the no crank no start somethimes I think only on extreme hot days. 1hour later it always starts again. Does your car also has this ? Because with a bad cas module I think it will be always doing this next time the car does this I will check this hack if I can look if starter works
That's what I was looking for, life and definetly money saver. I laughed but Thank you a lot man! And my problem is when you put the key on the car, I get first light and cabin power. but when I push the start button, It doesn't turn on Ignition dash lights (engine check fuel level, airbag abs check etc.) so no crank either. do you know anything about it. ground wires and battery checked, and tried to jump start as well. I cheked all the fuses.
@@aivisu8865 yes yes I tried everything. I figured out mate. I had to ELV reset. I think battery voltage was low and it cause to lock the car. I had problem sterring wheel lock problem but it didn’t effect before. Thank you! 🙏🏻
@@Bimmerplay steering wheel lock light was on before but it was starting properly. I haven’t had any problem since that day. So battery fluctuation cause that problem. I charged battery and I changed Stering wheel lock setting in CAS.
Amigo quiero saber lo que pasa que tengo uno igual y ya no prendió no da nada de marcha y le cale como en el video y si tengo buen motor de arranque pero ala hora de insertar la llave prende tablero luces pero me e fijado que lo de la gas no lo marca y cres que sea el motor de arranque porque melo marca en la pantalla o el módulo cas o el módulo de gasolina te agradecería si medan una respuesta gracias
Hi there, is it the thick white wire same apply to the 2006 E90 320i starter as well? There is no green socket for that model on the box but i saw one thick white wire on the maroon socket..trying google already for the signal wire in E90 320i but no clue on that.
Turning the engine over from the "B" post will not start the car. It just turns the engine over proving your starter and battery are good. If you have done this and still cant start from the start button then you probably have a CAS problem or ground strap issue
I have a e90 and it has a no crank issue. When I start it everything has power except the steering is locked and the wipers go crazy. I also get a code saying P1631 - Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct. I have put a copper cable between pin 21 and 22 on the cas module (what he does in the video) connector and it cranks the starter, so clearly the CAS is receiving power. could it be the DME or would it be the CAS? Or something completely different? Any help appreciated.
Exact same problem here abolsutely no fookin idea haven't been able to life car up to check all the grounds please hit me back if you figured it out would mean so much
Lmao, did your bonehead leave it in neutral or park??? It has to be in GEAR and either in front of a wall, garage door, some expansive car or your buddy, like.....
Hi. My ignition doesn’t switch to ‘on’ mode. When i push the start button there is no lights pop up on the dash(no response). Interior lights and seats work Do you know whats the problem because i cant scan codes since the ignition doesnt go on
I got a new CAS module from a scrap car for $100 and I found a guy in FB marketplace that programmed it to my car for $500. He had to write the old CAS info onto the new one then program it to the car to match the vin. Iv seen other people bypass the burnt diode with some little wires but i dont have the patience for that.
ahm3d@live.ca is his email guys name is ahmed soliman super nice guy works out of london Ontario, you can ship him the CAS to rewrite if your far from him.
@@aivisu8865 in my case the battery is perfectly fine but all I hear is 2 clicks coming from the front when I try to start the car. It sounds like it's coming from the alternator but I don't know if it's the starter. All my dash lights pop up
Thanks! Have you tried to turn it over from the B post yet? If it turns over fine. Then you have a fried CAS module. Mine was only sending 5volts to the starter, just enough to engage the solenoid but not turn it. Thats the clicking noise. It is 100% the starter making the click. Lmk how it goes.
Hey man I just tried this out and I'm still getting a click only... When it tried it on the CAS module plug it clicked again but shorted the wire i used and sparked... Any idea what it could be??! I'm at a loss and don't want to replace the CAS module just to get it fried again if that wasn't supposed to happen
Hey! What kind of wire did you use? Try using some heavy wire almost like house electrical wire and strip one down and flatten it out so it fits like i did with the aluminum wire, have you checked for 12 volts minimum at the “B” post? That would rule out a bad battery. Let me know
@@aivisu8865 i replaced the battery w a fresh one only a few days ago and am getting good voltages at the b post off the dme box- tbh i did use a cheap ass wire that was in my soldering kit lol so that might be it... I'll see if I can find a solid Al wire and try that see if it works but if it does crank would that rule it as a bad CAS? It would only click from the DME plug as well
Yes most likely. Do you get any dash lights or a clicking sound when you try and start from inside the car? The CAS module is easy to remove with a 10mm wrench preferably a rachet wrench. Then there are a few clips that hold it together. Unclip them and you should see/smell the burnt diode right away
@@aivisu8865 oh ok I really need to get this car going 😌 but I need to make sure The negated ground cable on the battery post the sensor has 3 wires. 2 of them has positive and one has ground but kind of stays off unless I wiggled it
Morning!! Have a question I check just about everything and my budget no good right now I mean no good and can’t spend money on part that don’t fix my issue so
So I think but I want to make sure ! With cas modulo connected i push on start and I do getting full signal but on the white wire going to the starter only getting 9 volts my question is from the cas module go straight to the starter or pass signal to the dem? Thanks and advance
Did it make any noise or turn over at all? This method wont start the car because the harness is unplugged but it will turn it over, that lets you test the battery and starter without removing them. If you have 12 volts at the "B post" and your car did nothing then most likely your starter is fried
Hi I don’t know if you still check this but I really need help. My car hasn’t started in a week and I’ve been trying to determine why. Every time I tried to start it, the battery would fluctuate in volts as low as 7v. After replacing all the fuses and one camshaft sensor, I’ve cleared all engine codes and I decided to take a look at the starter. I bought it used, but it was working well up until the car turned off. With a full battery in the car, the starter reinstalled and all repairs finalized; I got in the car today, and one single click. A couple of times it started to crank but same problem, major battery drop out. Any help from anyone would be great, thanks
Hey! Did you do any of these tests? It sounds like your CAS module is not sending the correct voltage to your starter, batteries don’t fluctuate in voltage that much.
My CAS was sending 5V to the starter which was just enough to make it click, i would try and boost it from the B- post like i did in the video and if it turns over without a problem than it is 100% CAS issue
@@aivisu8865 hey yea I ran the test given it direct power, and the starter was still just clicking, and i getting a slow crank. Today I tried to start it regular and I just got a dying crank a couple of times. I’m going to try giving it direct power again. If not any tests for the cas module without a obd2?
That comes from the CAS module, it should be full 12 volts. Make sure your battery has a full 12 volts and if the battery is good then most likely your CAS is shot, it’s easy to remove and check quickly, you should be able to smell the burnt diode when you open the CAS module
I did another test on the cas when I push the ignition switch I do get power for few seconds but on the white wire going to the starter it goes on and off like not getting all the voltage anything I’m missing
So it turned over fine? That means your battery is good. And most likely your starter is also good. Its only a 10mm bolt that holds the CAS module in. Take it out and open it up to see the circuit board. You should smell burnt computer if its the problem
@@aivisu8865 yeah and starter crank.is the cluster trans indicator is present? Mine is not showing P in the cluster.and shifter stucked in park.it happen when i tried to re wire my radio with nbt system back up camera
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Bra has me dying starting it in drive
this is the best video on how to diagnose no crank no start. Just got quoted about 2K from my shop just for the diagnosis. I am going to tow the car to my house just start going at it myself.
Thats great man! Let me know how it goes!
I want to thank you. Because you are a life save. After many hours of searching for the issues of no cranking and battery terminal changing, it turned out that the white terminal wire prove to me that the starter is good. Here's what occurred next, I cleaned the wiring harnesses and now my BMW beamer starts right up like a champ.
Once again, thank you.
Andy Grintatelly
That is beautiful Andy! Glad i could help sir! Happy driving.
Andy wich wire did u clean and where
@@andrewgruntatelli5012 I’m about to clean mine. I see some green stuff on the connectors on both sides
Hopefully that’ fixed 🙏🏼🙏🏼 I’ll be on debt with y’all guys 🙏🏼👍🏼👌💪🏼
Hi, Aivisu. I like the way you diagnosed this BMW, I found it to be very practical and to the point, you must have tons of experience with BMWs. I watched hundreds of videos and I must say your video impressed me the most. I thank you for your awesome presentation and I hope that will help me with my 2007 BMW problem No crank No start. God bless you to be able of keeping up the good work.
thank you John! much appreciated.
Great video! Thanks so much, because I've been searching RUclips with no success for how to hotwire the starter from the engine bay in order to run compression testing on each cylinder one-at-a-time. This is fantastic!!!!!! Keywords to add to you video to get more hits: Hotwire BMW, External Starter Switch BMW, Remote Start, Engine Bay Starter test.
That is awesome! Im glad i could help. How did your compression test work out?! Thank you for the keywords i will add them in tonight!
LISTEN PLEASE
this might be the best test I could ever perform for a no key situation, sir I thank you!
you welcome!
Wow I love your practical works, see most times people tend not to do it right. I find this earlier and I will continue following your encouraging works. This one's a plus.
Has the same issue. Replaced a fuel replay and everything worked. I was going crazy checking everything. Replaced the ground wires, checked the all the modules same result. Nice vid
hey wondering what bmw do you have? having the same problem but I get no crank at all
thanks!🍻
@@shaneirish3777 Did you fix it
@Mahdi Burnell could you hear your fuel pump prime when you'd try and start the car?
@@TheFear37 yes
I had a feeling that horse was about to bolt… giddy ya cowboy! 😂😂😂
thanks for sharing this. I see this question asked a lot and never really get any follow ups on success/what happened. the topic starter either doesn't figure it out or figures it out then doesn't share what happened. thanks for doing this all for free all of our wallets burning.
haha no problem! glad to hear its helping people. thanks
best explanation ..u have done your homework on this issue ..Bravo Sir Bravo
Thank you I appreciate it!
"What am I drinking?!" :))) got me in tears :)) LOL...Thank for the video!!! :)
Great video, I like how you didn't edit out when you had the car in gear lol... Funny but in a good way... 👍 You just saved me a lot of labor
Haha thanks bro! Glad i could help! It would have looked weird if I chopped it out so i just said fuck it 😂
My wifes 330 having same prob..i put new starter.relay.ignition push switch..nothing.gonna try this.cheers.P
That first start almost made me jump aswell 😂🤣
You sir, are a life saver. I was losing my mind after getting a new cas. Still not sure why even with a new CAS I experience this issue, but now i am not chasing a starter or alternator. Hopefully I figure out what besides a CAS is causing my issue.
Nice! how did it turn out?
Did you figure out?
@@aivisu8865 I still dont have a permanent solution. Its an old car so have not investment in a permanent solution. I have two wires connected similar to the way you show that I join when I need to start the car. Its a pain in the butt, but works well when I do occasionally take the car out.
It was an issue with the CAS module. Apparently even after I got a fixed, it wasn’t fully fixed. I got mine fixed through precision ECU.
i got to comment you did an amazing job straight to the point and good testing
Nah definitely had to like for the make sure it’s in N 🤣🤣
LOL almost had a heart attack! I never used to put my car in gear until my friend said i should instead of relying on just the parking brake. New to manual if you cant tell 😂
I liked the part when the car tried to hug u
Excellent dude, funny as hell though, a normal guy working on a bimmer.
Thanks 4 the great video you not showing the case module itself ,, you talking about it but where it is?
In the trunk under the spare tire
Thanks for the info.my car had this problem.now I know where to start with.
np! how did it turn out?
Safety skills are zero 😂
Thank you for the video
Thank you,Thank you,Thank you.
You saved me a lot of money.
GOD BLESS YOU…
Robert
"the shit ain't startin either way u look at it" lmfao
HAHA 😂
The one I’m working on is a hybrid so it has no starter. The hybrid inverter sits on top of engine so I can’t access the injectors or coils to see if they are firing. What’s more is that I can only crank it once to do the check then I will have to wait for 30 minutes to an hour to be able to crank it again one time.
nice, now i know how to hotwire
Thanks so much man I’m testing that first thing tomorrow
No problem, hope it’s an easy fix!
I will be doing this, thanks for the video!
Good video. Nice that you showed where the correct wires are. Of course a already replaced my starter motor, and just about every other damn thing on the car its an N54 335I E92.
Thanks man
Yeah I found out my starter cable runs all the way in the back
trunk connecting to the Terminal Distribution Fuse Junction Plate
and that's why my suv wouldn't start. I tested all the positive cables and found out one wasn't
hot which was the starter cable.
Sorry for it being in gear but best content in trying times
Sir why did you replace the starter you could use a multimeter and put it in the cable control in the front and if it lights up it’s your starter if it’s doesn’t it’s your fuse box or ignition switch or something else
Solid video.
I did your test and it works and turns over fine. I sent the CAS out to be repaired and they sent it back saying its completely fine. Now i dont know what to do. I unplugged the ibs sensor. still nothing. I can bump start the car and it runs, but it has hesitation when pushing the clutch in when shifting, and my brake lights are on all the time and flicker. Any ideas lads? Thanks
I’m working on a X6 active hybrid. Hybrid cars are a bit more tricky. For example if the engine is not able to start it will throw a hybrid code as well. When I press the start button the hybrid battery cranks the engine but does not start then it throws the hybrid code. At the same time scanner throw an immobilizer code (A103). I notice there is no wire on pin 20 of the CAS. I don’t if someone messed with it or that’s how it is supposed to be. Instead the wire coming from the DME is on pin 30 of the CAS.
You got the like by trying to crank it in gear lmfao but didn't know that, thanks man!
😂😂
Nice work mate. I have a 335 that is not communicating with the dsc. Think a relay or fuse has blown when the fuel pump tried to prime with the fuel rail removed for a valve cover gasket change. Possibly the junction box.
Have run ISTA. Now I need to figure out where the wires are that it's telling me to check. Hopefully the issue is easy to fix.
Thanks I appreciate it! This same car also had a dsc issue that was caused by the previous owner removing the fuses for dsc and 4x4 because he thought it would make the car RWD. Heres a diagram fusesdiagram.com/bmw/fuse-box-diagram-bmw-3-e90.html thats a good website for diagrams if you dont have the og chart in your glove box panel. This is why its very important to disconnect the battery when doing any engine work. But good for you doing your own repairs that's awesome! 👍 good luck bro
Tryna test starter on 06 325i. Don’t have the green box with white wire like yours. Mine is maroon
Just trace the little wire from the starter, it should be easily visible from the top
you are the best bro!
Thanks brotha 🤙
thanks for the video. Can i drive the car when it starts without de cas module?
Dam kid nice job. Just no more running your self over with the car.
thanks chris! havent done it since lol
If I tried connecting the thing in the engine bay to the + terminal without the fuel pump plugged in, would it start? Need to just get my car home so I can check out the CAS module stuff on my own time instead of at a parking lot. Thanks!
Update: For some reason I had all the same issues (no crank, no start, no click, fuel pump priming, all lights and accessories working) but the starter wouldn't engage. Had code a0b4. I tried hot wiring the starter from the junction box under the hood and the starter engaged and when I went into the car to try to start it up, and it started up. Strange.... Has been working fine for the last 3 days now. Not sure what the issue was that it just required me to hotwire the starter
Sharing for information incase it's useful for anyone else
Hey! Sorry i seen this late, it sounds like you have a bad starter, or ground issue, i would check both ground straps on your engine.
@@TheFear37 After jumping it would work for 2 or 3 days and then go back to the same problem, just replaced starter and ground straps and it still won't start smh
@@srt4driver1 have u solve it? i just had a same issues here
I am having the same issue. I removed the clip, plugged in the copper wire and touched it to the B post and my starter only clicks. Does this mean my starter is shot?
Yes most likely. Even given full 12 volts and just a click means you’re solenoid is gone
This is EXACTLY HOW YOU DO IT
I jus got a e90 09 328i and I hooked up subs and amp, after about a week after running them I lost all power completely , Im still getting power to the battery but none to the car at all. The first thing that went wrong was the clock would reset every time I got in and would go somewhere , the last time I started. I’ve been reading up and I feel like it’s the ibs but I’ve also been seeing it could be the fuse box and B wire , power distribution box , Or a fuse . Id really like to know exactly what it is so I know what I’m getting into and also whatever parts I’m going need.
Sounds like you might have blown a fuse, or something is drawing power. Disconnect your wire for a week and if the problem goes away then you have a power draw
@aivisu8865 thanks for that. I got rid of the subs lol but I'm back on this video again haha 2 years later im trying to diagnose my starter , battery is good but i go to press the start and it makes a single clicking sound kinda sounds like it's coming from the alternator, when you test it like in the video do I keep battery all hooked when testing it from pin 4 to positive
thanks tested your trick and no start
opened up the cas and the board looks like new
ive changed the ivm also and battery was on charger. tested all the fuses and all is good.
question: is the jump clip suppose to get warm? i flatten a paper clip
im guessing its the dreaded starter 05 645ci
hi i tested the starter like you demonstrated from the plug to the positive terminal in the engine bay. But now if i connect my battery the car has absolutely no power. No lights go on when i connect the battery
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 he said what the f am I drinking took me out bro !
My car does the no crank no start somethimes I think only on extreme hot days. 1hour later it always starts again. Does your car also has this ? Because with a bad cas module I think it will be always doing this next time the car does this I will check this hack if I can look if starter works
Intermittent starting is probably going to be a bad starter, no start at all would be a CAS or ground strap issue
That's what I was looking for, life and definetly money saver. I laughed but Thank you a lot man! And my problem is when you put the key on the car, I get first light and cabin power. but when I push the start button, It doesn't turn on Ignition dash lights (engine check fuel level, airbag abs check etc.) so no crank either. do you know anything about it. ground wires and battery checked, and tried to jump start as well. I cheked all the fuses.
Hey thanks i like to hear that! It sounds like a ground strap issue, but could be CAS, have you done this test yet? Lmk
@@aivisu8865 yes yes I tried everything. I figured out mate. I had to ELV reset. I think battery voltage was low and it cause to lock the car. I had problem sterring wheel lock problem but it didn’t effect before. Thank you! 🙏🏻
@@TwelveandHalf how u fixed it?
@@Bimmerplay steering wheel lock light was on before but it was starting properly. I haven’t had any problem since that day. So battery fluctuation cause that problem. I charged battery and I changed Stering wheel lock setting in CAS.
Amigo quiero saber lo que pasa que tengo uno igual y ya no prendió no da nada de marcha y le cale como en el video y si tengo buen motor de arranque pero ala hora de insertar la llave prende tablero luces pero me e fijado que lo de la gas no lo marca y cres que sea el motor de arranque porque melo marca en la pantalla o el módulo cas o el módulo de gasolina te agradecería si medan una respuesta gracias
Hi there, is it the thick white wire same apply to the 2006 E90 320i starter as well? There is no green socket for that model on the box but i saw one thick white wire on the maroon socket..trying google already for the signal wire in E90 320i but no clue on that.
very helpful. thanks
Thanks. A useful video.
I appreciate that! 🍻
I did the first test and it worked a couple times but tried a week later and it won't turn anymore and it's a brand new starter
Hi, thank you for posting this video, what if I connect the white wire to the positive terminal and the starter don’t crank?
Hi, that most likely means your starter is bad. But also make sure you have 12 volts at the positive terminal.
So it should turn the vehicle on if the cas or starter isn’t bad, correct?
Turning the engine over from the "B" post will not start the car. It just turns the engine over proving your starter and battery are good. If you have done this and still cant start from the start button then you probably have a CAS problem or ground strap issue
I have 12 volts to the starter, is my starter bad or should I look into the cas? Thanks for the info!
Did you try starting it from the B post? If it turns over fine then yes i would take a look at the CAS module, its easy to remove. And np! 👍
2005 BMW E63 NO CRANK NO START NO CLICK
A0C2/not present CAS Output, terminal 50 RS
would this be the same on a 645ci ?
Sooo what happens when you don't get any fire to the white wire
My my car is making a clanking sound .... When I attempted to start it... Is my problem more of a starter issue???
Is it turning over at all? Or just making a click noise? Iv never heard it make a clank.
Didn’t do anything but I wanna stay in tune
I got the code p16c1 and p1434 what are they if anything knows car cranks but isent starting
Gracias por el video, saludos desde México.
de nada, amigo mío, feliz de ayudar, salud!
2014 x6 bmw no ignition current on coil and injector please help
I have a e90 and it has a no crank issue. When I start it everything has power except the steering is locked and the wipers go crazy. I also get a code saying P1631 - Theft Deterrent Start Enable Signal Not Correct. I have put a copper cable between pin 21 and 22 on the cas module (what he does in the video) connector and it cranks the starter, so clearly the CAS is receiving power. could it be the DME or would it be the CAS? Or something completely different? Any help appreciated.
Exact same problem here abolsutely no fookin idea haven't been able to life car up to check all the grounds please hit me back if you figured it out would mean so much
@@creambeam445 will do bro I’m still stuck 6 months later
Sup bro i have bmw x5 2005 4.4 no crank no start
Nice to know
I tried this, didn’t engage the starter, and now the car seems bricked after unplugging the CAS
Lmao, did your bonehead leave it in neutral or park??? It has to be in GEAR and either in front of a wall, garage door, some expansive car or your buddy, like.....
Thanks very helpful
Hi. My ignition doesn’t switch to ‘on’ mode. When i push the start button there is no lights pop up on the dash(no response). Interior lights and seats work
Do you know whats the problem because i cant scan codes since the ignition doesnt go on
Hi, it could be your CAS module. Does the center screen light up at all? And have you checked your engine to chassis ground strap? Theres 2 of them.
So the CAS was bad, how did you fix it? Do you replace the CAS or swap the blown diode?
I got a new CAS module from a scrap car for $100 and I found a guy in FB marketplace that programmed it to my car for $500. He had to write the old CAS info onto the new one then program it to the car to match the vin. Iv seen other people bypass the burnt diode with some little wires but i dont have the patience for that.
@@aivisu8865 do you still have this guy's info?
ahm3d@live.ca is his email guys name is ahmed soliman super nice guy works out of london Ontario, you can ship him the CAS to rewrite if your far from him.
So when doing the starter test if nothing happens and just sparks, no click, starter generally bad?
I had same effect? Does it mean its bad?
Hey man, at 00:00 i see a red wire, a big red wire. Where does that wire connect?
Can you try this with just regular copper wire?
Yes as long as its the same gauge or higher. To thin and it will arc and melt, to thick and it wont fit in the slot
@@aivisu8865 thank you and the video was super hilarious but very helpful
@@aivisu8865 in my case the battery is perfectly fine but all I hear is 2 clicks coming from the front when I try to start the car. It sounds like it's coming from the alternator but I don't know if it's the starter. All my dash lights pop up
Thanks! Have you tried to turn it over from the B post yet? If it turns over fine. Then you have a fried CAS module. Mine was only sending 5volts to the starter, just enough to engage the solenoid but not turn it. Thats the clicking noise. It is 100% the starter making the click. Lmk how it goes.
@@aivisu8865 thank you so much I appreciate it. I will definitely start with the starter
Hey man I just tried this out and I'm still getting a click only... When it tried it on the CAS module plug it clicked again but shorted the wire i used and sparked... Any idea what it could be??! I'm at a loss and don't want to replace the CAS module just to get it fried again if that wasn't supposed to happen
I'm also having the terminal 50 error as well
Hey! What kind of wire did you use? Try using some heavy wire almost like house electrical wire and strip one down and flatten it out so it fits like i did with the aluminum wire, have you checked for 12 volts minimum at the “B” post? That would rule out a bad battery. Let me know
@@aivisu8865 i replaced the battery w a fresh one only a few days ago and am getting good voltages at the b post off the dme box- tbh i did use a cheap ass wire that was in my soldering kit lol so that might be it... I'll see if I can find a solid Al wire and try that see if it works but if it does crank would that rule it as a bad CAS? It would only click from the DME plug as well
Solved.... It was a loose B+ terminal cable 🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️🤦🏽♂️
@@kriterzz5383 i solved this last year but it actually turned out to be the battery and loose ground cables! I replaced the starter unnecessarily
what about bmw 6 series e63 v8
Does it have to be aluminum (4:50)
Hey! No thats just what i had available but DO NOT use soldering wire. Copper, aluminum or steel.
Hey bro I did this but my car only cranks bad cas ?
Yes most likely. Do you get any dash lights or a clicking sound when you try and start from inside the car? The CAS module is easy to remove with a 10mm wrench preferably a rachet wrench. Then there are a few clips that hold it together. Unclip them and you should see/smell the burnt diode right away
Did you had to program the New module?
Yes, it needs to be coded to the main computer
@@aivisu8865 oh ok I really need to get this car going 😌 but I need to make sure
The negated ground cable on the battery post the sensor has 3 wires. 2 of them has positive and one has ground but kind of stays off unless I wiggled it
Yea you should have a secure connection, maybe take it apart and see if anything is broken or lose
Morning!!
Have a question I check just about everything and my budget no good right now I mean no good and can’t spend money on part that don’t fix my issue so
So I think but I want to make sure ! With cas modulo connected i push on start and I do getting full signal but on the white wire going to the starter only getting 9 volts my question is from the cas module go straight to the starter or pass signal to the dem? Thanks and advance
Im having the same issue just changed starter and new battery nd still just one click
Have you checked the engine to chasis ground strap?
@@aivisu8865 found out my cord in the back was ripped is there anyway i could send you the video of it
@@aivisu8865 so its still isn’t starting im so confused now
What was it?
@@superman574ful hey did you get it fixed?
My 2009 335i won't start I tried to do what he did and it didn't start it did nothing.
Did it make any noise or turn over at all? This method wont start the car because the harness is unplugged but it will turn it over, that lets you test the battery and starter without removing them. If you have 12 volts at the "B post" and your car did nothing then most likely your starter is fried
Hola buenas noches que código te daba? Tengo un caso parecido pero no tengo chispa en las bobinas coill
would this work on a 2011 335i?
Yes
@@aivisu8865 i dont see thst green connector. i see an red and white wire # on a white connector
Hi I don’t know if you still check this but I really need help. My car hasn’t started in a week and I’ve been trying to determine why. Every time I tried to start it, the battery would fluctuate in volts as low as 7v. After replacing all the fuses and one camshaft sensor, I’ve cleared all engine codes and I decided to take a look at the starter. I bought it used, but it was working well up until the car turned off. With a full battery in the car, the starter reinstalled and all repairs finalized; I got in the car today, and one single click. A couple of times it started to crank but same problem, major battery drop out. Any help from anyone would be great, thanks
I have a 2006 325i E90 N52
I’ve been thinking the battery was bad and maybe I just have been burning the starter, someone tell me it’s that simple 😂
Hey! Did you do any of these tests? It sounds like your CAS module is not sending the correct voltage to your starter, batteries don’t fluctuate in voltage that much.
My CAS was sending 5V to the starter which was just enough to make it click, i would try and boost it from the B- post like i did in the video and if it turns over without a problem than it is 100% CAS issue
@@aivisu8865 hey yea I ran the test given it direct power, and the starter was still just clicking, and i getting a slow crank. Today I tried to start it regular and I just got a dying crank a couple of times. I’m going to try giving it direct power again. If not any tests for the cas module without a obd2?
I got the crank but it didn’t start
Just tried everything s stil no crank just dead
hows your battery? do you have a full 12 volts?
lol you used a random wire instead of a multi meter with a light up bulb 😭
On this wire I’m only getting 9 bolt’s
The 50 wire?
@@aivisu8865 the one the goes to the starter the white one
That comes from the CAS module, it should be full 12 volts. Make sure your battery has a full 12 volts and if the battery is good then most likely your CAS is shot, it’s easy to remove and check quickly, you should be able to smell the burnt diode when you open the CAS module
@@aivisu8865 ok I will check in that first thing tomorrow morning. Appreciate it. I’ll keep you updated.
I did another test on the cas when I push the ignition switch I do get power for few seconds but on the white wire going to the starter it goes on and off like not getting all the voltage anything I’m missing
So I did this and it attempted to start
So since it did attempt to start what is the issue?
Please help I am loosing my mind
Does that mean it is the cas module and I’ll have to send it in for repair?
So it turned over fine? That means your battery is good. And most likely your starter is also good. Its only a 10mm bolt that holds the CAS module in. Take it out and open it up to see the circuit board. You should smell burnt computer if its the problem
I don’t smell anything sorry for the late response had to go do something
I have a problem like this
Have you tried this process yet?
@@aivisu8865 yeah and starter crank.is the cluster trans indicator is present? Mine is not showing P in the cluster.and shifter stucked in park.it happen when i tried to re wire my radio with nbt system back up camera