I tried making an rc hovercraft way back by repurposing cheap rc car parts and a cardboard frame. Not quite powerful enough. Now that I've got a so far unused 3d printer sitting on a shelf I might give this another try. Great video.
Your design is so perfect! Everything just fits and it makes me so happy. Can you do a video in the future where you show us your workflow when designing something like this?
Just from an industrial design point of view only that model is truly an elegant design. The integrated servo mount and wire channels are a step above! Well done sir.
You could make a 3 rudder design where the middle rudder pivots and the outer two rudders are simply attached to the middle rudder and set backwards a bit making a diamond formation which will allow full range of rotation your original single rudder has.
Dual rudder for sure- Your hovercraft is working perfectly if it is hard to control (that was an interesting rudder hack and yes throttle=steering)! As a long time hovercraft enthusiast it takes practice and some nerve to pilot and even with many years experience things can get dicey ;)
I watch many RC plane channels and multi rotor channels and yours is right at the top of my list. You and FliteTest are the best. Keep up the great work you are doing.
It´s true, isn´t it? Tom offers a unique type of "thinking man´s" flight-based RC vid, well laced with 3D printing and leavened with plenty of concise yet thorough explanations. It was his superb video on vortex generators (on a VTOL) that got me hooked on his channel and I´ve had my day improved by each and every video he´s posted ever since.
There are few things more satisfying to watch than a bin bag skirt hovercraft rise up from the ground the first time you tried it out. I even clapped a little bit I think :) Well done mate!
This is a realy great build. Im as impressed by the simplicity as much as its strangeness. The whole thing runs on a single motor and a servo. Toy companies would kill for such a cheep build.
Super impressive Tom. Love how you go through the troubleshooting throughout the video and you also take the time to add some graphics (turbulence, air vectors, etc)... keep it up!
for extensive tail rudder testing, you might want to make a removable base for the rudder. then, when you want to introduce pivot points or whatever, you simply print a new rudder base instead of the whole chasis
You can use triple rudder, with linkages to main rudder. Or you can do dual rudder if you leave the servo where it is and link to two rudders, as if there was a middle rudder on it.
Hey man fuck that guy!!! I love the lovecraft reference!! Jeeze didnt his mamma teach him anything?? If ya aint got nothing nice to say.......shut the fuck up ya little puke!! Hehe
well done Tom! instead of duplicating the rudder you could triple it: keep the servo in place. create two vertical axles for therudders, equidistant from the servo (on the right and left of the servo) and connect the two rudders to the central rudder bracket and you're done. If you do not want to have three rudders you can remove the central one keeping, off course the servo's bracket
First video I see from U . Very smart and realistic the way you analyze the problems. I did a hovercrafts and most of the issues I had you mention then and fixed them properly. Very clever. I mean I've seen aerospace engineers attacking the problems like amateurs. Pretty good video
Turning the whole fan would make it pretty complicated to design the air intake for the skirt... On a Hovercraft with a seperate propeller for the skirts it would work fine I guess...
I've seen some real life small hovercraft that use a pair of thrust reverser buckets that can flip back into the air stream independently, one on each side. Use one at a time to turn or both for a fast stop, and if you feather the input just right you can hold still without losing lift.
I vacuum formed one once for my GCSE DT project. Worked out pretty well but went with thin plywood in the end. All of which was unnecessarily complex. You can just use laminated polystyrene and pipe lagging round the edge. For the power to weight you can get from scale models a flexible skirt isn't needed
Hey, was just thinking why not tripple aerofoils on the rear, you could keep the servo in it's current position, and link the outer foils...just a thought! Great video, enjoy your channel!
You just solved my skirt problem. It's been doing my head in on my homemade foam hovercraft. I love your design. Mine has a foam box at the bottom of the propeller (not ducted) and ported evenly and 2 cells are more than enough. My mates 4 cell li po broke the moter mount but it works not quite as well as your design and now I'm rambling lol
*"As far as I am aware (correct me if I am wrong), the hollow ducts of this hovercraft frame couldn't be manufactured in ONE piece using any other manufacturing technique."* Technically you could have cast the whole thing.
Hey Tom, cool machine! Hovercraft are a TON of fun! There's a simple trick for making perfect skirts with no effort. Grab a new heavy duty trash bag and don't open it. Just spread it out so it's 2 layers thick on a table. Place your craft on the table and trace out the craft 's profile x percent bigger than the hull, where x is the size of your skirt deflated. There's some math you can do to find x for a certain skirt radius, but i generally eyeball it and go about 30-60mm larger than the hull depending on it's size. Now take a hot soldering iron and on a flat surface, trace out the line with the tip dragging at an angle so that it melts the two layers together and creates a seam at the same time the cut is made. Practice on a bag with a chisel tip held at an angle until you can get a perfectly sealed seam and the cut in one pass. It's not as hard as it sounds. Another tip, try a cylindrical rudder. Just 3d print up a ring about 1/2 the diameter of your fan shroud with a servo horn hole on the bottom and offset it to the rear so it doesn't contact the prop. Also, i've found that you CAN control hovercraft precisely without using a bucket rudder, but it takes a VERY quick hand on the throttle and learning how low you can go on power without dragging. Fly at low power and use quick blips of throttle and heavy rudder to initiate and halt yaw, and lead the throttle. Learn how much to give it to start and stop yawing because by the time you see the craft move it's too late. Hovercraft flying is a feel thing, be aggressive when setting a yaw rate but smooth when guiding the craft under moderate power. Single fans are silly simple but a good dual fan is a huge improvement in performance. A decent computer case or server rack fan that pulls 1-3a moves plenty of air to inflate a skirt on larger craft than yours, you might be able to get away with a smaller blower style fan or two on that size craft without needing two whole brushless outrunners and all that noise. Another tip, double hull craft are much more stable, and one huge key to stability is sizing the skirt diameter so that when fully inflated, the lowest point of the skirt is just inside the perimeter of the outermost upper deck. If it's outside the hull it'll deflate the skirt on turns, feel mushy and have lots of roll. Too far inside and it'll be twitchy and unstable. On a double hull machine it allows you to add a "stabilization" hole instead of just venting the edges of the skirt. Basically, it's a hole in the hull at the dynamic center of the craft that lets about 50% of the air from the fan blower or duct diverter pass straight down and ensure positive pressure at the center of the craft that encourages even flow under the skirt edges. some craft do well just by inflating the skirt with static pressure and letting all the air pass through the center, smaller craft especially. One more thing with a double hull twin fan craft that has a fan lying horizontally you'll encounter the problem of torque yawing the craft under fan power. This problem seems to scare many people away from even building this type of craft, but there's an easy solution. Just put the appropriate angle of vanes in between the top and bottom hull to correct the airflow. Experimentation with foam and tape or hot glue to fix temporary corrector vanes will get you the angle you need, then once you know what it is, add it to your stl file as needed. Here's a playlist of some of my hovercraft, both skirted, skirtless, single and dual fan. ruclips.net/video/ocuYTigFA4o/видео.html
nice project i like it !! what do you think about en electric longboard !! after the electriv Bike V3 i think a an electric longboard could be your next project !!
DerpyDoom yeah I know that and i have also watch many of them ! But Tom made his project in a diffrent way and maybe he will show us something very differente !!
Myster Orel Yeah that would be great. Maybe we could have a good, easy to follow tutorial(Not saying no one else doesn't have one but toms would be the best)
Tom, each time i see you've uploaded a new video - i drop everything and watch it. you are a brilliant guy and I thank you for sharing. i am not only learning a lot from you, but i do this with a smile as well. keep up the good work. waiting for your next video s to come.
A really cool idea is to scale it up for outdoor use but keep most of the design. Perhaps as long as a skateboard. Some parts would still be able to be 3D printed. Love your videos!
yet another great project, well documented, explained and really good to watch! Looking at the printing section I can suggest a couple changes to improve your print and reduce stringing, I also have a few CR10s: give it a coast distance of about 0.10 - 0.20 - depending on temp. increase retraction speed.
Exceptionally well done mate. A very creditable job of design, construction and the problem solving was done exquisitely. Very, very impressed, thank you for sharing, 11x👍🏻👏
Nice Project. Thx for the vid. Use a grid-fin-ruder. It is very efficient, light-weight and easy to print. And I recomend a use of membrane-shaped air-skirt: it consists of a three parts: two flat membranes and one riggit-ring for tight connecting of membranes.
The reason for the hovercraft tilting over to its left is that the motor is rotating to the right and the angular momentum it has tries to flip the hovercraft. The problem is less obvious when it's hovering lower as it then has less space for the left edge to come down.
Very nice. I've ordered a 3d printer so binge watching a lot of videos to get ideas and I love this. At first I'm going to build wired control things like cranes and maybe a digger but I'll get onto RC items at some point
3D printing is nice and all, but last year I did really similar about twice that size using coroplast (for platform, duct, shroud, steering vanes) and a foam pool noodle as the surround. it's light so it doesn't take a lot of power, and guaranteed to float! the pool noodle is also a great bumper/skirt. it only rises 2-3 mm for not having an inflatable skirt, so naturally won't do as well over rougher surfaces. about 1/3 of the shroud is duct, it gets more positive pressure running a 6 blade 5" 3P prop, 2212 motor 2700kv because it was cheap.
This is legit, I'm super impressed with how well it worked on the first go around. Also was really glad to see it all in a single video, I like the multi part videos as well, but sometimes they feel cut a little too short :) Excellent work on this!
Nice work mate, i like the second rudder. It improves syerring abiliry. I have one with 3 lever rudder set up and its harder to control than your 2nd rudder. Keep up the research, its very interesting. Thanks.
Clamp the skirt also to the middle and make holes for the air to escape. Almost like a tube around the craft. I did a big one years ago. This will prevent water sand and shit getting inside
Thanks Bengt, I'm working on an inner skirt clamp right now! Just had a look at your hovercraft from back in 2013 and it looks like it worked awesome is the snow! We've just had some snow here in the UK, so I'll be out testing soon ;)
Another thing you could do for the rudder is mount one on either side of the first one, all connected to the same servo. The other two work in unison and should massively effect the directional air coming out
Nicely done. I have often wondered why hovercrafts dont have one pivoting fan in the front and another in the rear. That way you could have complete control of the direction of movement and yaw.
Damn it! Ok you won me over, I'll sign up to Patron and get ya supported soon. My son and I love seeing your videos pop up on the subscription feed, he will love to try this.
![[SFM] Risky Recital](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RzNkY1_Nk3o/mqdefault.jpg)
18:37 Kitty!!!!
wow, thats a lot of beees!
Poop!
William I'm subscribed to you
OSMAN! #notacrab
William Osman Yep, it is a lot of bees
I tried making an rc hovercraft way back by repurposing cheap rc car parts and a cardboard frame. Not quite powerful enough. Now that I've got a so far unused 3d printer sitting on a shelf I might give this another try. Great video.
Using starlite filament? :D
use a garbage bag or something dont use starlite filament its to thick
@@carneeki kkjjjjijjjiiikkkkkkkiiiiiiiiiiii1
1
@@YTYTYTYT78Alright little Timmy, go back to eating your own feces and give your mother her phone back.
Your design is so perfect! Everything just fits and it makes me so happy. Can you do a video in the future where you show us your workflow when designing something like this?
Just from an industrial design point of view only that model is truly an elegant design. The integrated servo mount and wire channels are a step above! Well done sir.
You could make a 3 rudder design where the middle rudder pivots and the outer two rudders are simply attached to the middle rudder and set backwards a bit making a diamond formation which will allow full range of rotation your original single rudder has.
Probably nothing you haven't heard before - amazing design, great print, great idea and amazing execution - 10/10 - simply awesome!
Dual rudder for sure- Your hovercraft is working perfectly if it is hard to control (that was an interesting rudder hack and yes throttle=steering)! As a long time hovercraft enthusiast it takes practice and some nerve to pilot and even with many years experience things can get dicey ;)
your so dumb he fixed the problem
@@Curttygaming Actually read the comment
There are a number of 3d printed hovercraft, but this one is far superior in terms of design and elegance! Great work!
Your projects never disappoint. Love the research you put in and explain to us. Nice job Tom!
I watch many RC plane channels and multi rotor channels and yours is right at the top of my list. You and FliteTest are the best. Keep up the great work you are doing.
David Bischof
Flite Test dropped significantly on my list when they lost the European. I really enjoyed his stuff
TissuePaper the Swedish guy? yeah I miss him
I hope you have PeterSripol on your list also.
Peter siprol too
Tom Stanton uploads a video... day improved
9001% -- thats over 9000!
It´s true, isn´t it? Tom offers a unique type of "thinking man´s" flight-based RC vid, well laced with 3D printing and leavened with plenty of concise yet thorough explanations.
It was his superb video on vortex generators (on a VTOL) that got me hooked on his channel and I´ve had my day improved by each and every video he´s posted ever since.
could not agree more!
You can tell that Tom carefully researches a good proportion of the theory behind his projects.
I agree
Your videos are so well made. Your explanation is not only informative but preemptively assumes all arguments.
Oh, very nice! Looking forward to trying this one out! Thanks Tom!
Absolutely brilliant!!
There are few things more satisfying to watch than a bin bag skirt hovercraft rise up from the ground the first time you tried it out. I even clapped a little bit I think :) Well done mate!
That servo and motor mount using one bolt is a truly beautiful thing! An engenius design! I love it!
Awesome, brave enough to give it a go on water?
Colin Hickey He needs to waterproof the electronics
HB You mean spray them with two coats of the spray-on polyurethane he almost absolutely has in his workshop?
TissuePaper that is still waterproofing it.
Appreciate he would need some water proofing, kind of a given.
I would've loved to give this a go, not on water but at the moment the loch near where I live has iced over. Would be fantastic to see it out on that.
This is a realy great build. Im as impressed by the simplicity as much as its strangeness. The whole thing runs on a single motor and a servo. Toy companies would kill for such a cheep build.
Looks great! I hope you try version 2 over water :)
Just made mine. Love it. I found a 70mm EDF on Thingyverse which i scaled to 7mm on the Z and 75mm on X and Y. Works great! Cheers Tom. Great design!
Super impressive Tom. Love how you go through the troubleshooting throughout the video and you also take the time to add some graphics (turbulence, air vectors, etc)... keep it up!
I wish I was born with the brains like you. you are making good functional stuff so easilly and rapidly.
for extensive tail rudder testing, you might want to make a removable base for the rudder. then, when you want to introduce pivot points or whatever, you simply print a new rudder base instead of the whole chasis
Its super cool that Peter Sripol is a Patreon supporter of yours, showing support for the DIY community, awesome.
ikr
Short skirts don’t just look good on the ladies Tom they give much more stability to hovercrafts 😜
You can use triple rudder, with linkages to main rudder. Or you can do dual rudder if you leave the servo where it is and link to two rudders, as if there was a middle rudder on it.
Paint it BLACK, paint tentacles on it and christen it
H.P. HOVERCRAFT
Really reaching for that one. Honestly you couldn't fit hentai into the reference as well?
Love you 😘♥️💜❤️💜❤️❤️❤️♥️♥️❤️❤️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️♥️❤️ Ling 😘😘❤️♥️
Hey man fuck that guy!!! I love the lovecraft reference!! Jeeze didnt his mamma teach him anything?? If ya aint got nothing nice to say.......shut the fuck up ya little puke!! Hehe
What are these three comments?
@@alanmarhic6813 late to the show broski?
well done Tom!
instead of duplicating the rudder you could triple it: keep the servo in place.
create two vertical axles for therudders, equidistant from the servo (on the right and left of the servo) and connect the two rudders to the central rudder bracket and you're done.
If you do not want to have three rudders you can remove the central one keeping, off course the servo's bracket
Dat cable management... I wish I could be bothered to design those into my designs :P.
I love how you approach everything as an engineer! Congrats! Keep it up!
Damn, i like it
Nice, 69 likes.
the motor/propeller housing looks like the pnp/npn type transistor symbol from a circuit diagram :-P
I thinc yu'er mom gay
Lol
Guillermo Marturet Fendt no u
NE 555 maybe not one to one but somewhat looks like it
@@enrico81 images.ecosia.org/lf0eBnBnHMpD6uBWUKr91MJbyys=/0x390/smart/https%3A%2F%2Fcdn.pixabay.com%2Fphoto%2F2013%2F07%2F12%2F13%2F19%2Ftransistor-146813_640.png
First video I see from U . Very smart and realistic the way you analyze the problems. I did a hovercrafts and most of the issues I had you mention then and fixed them properly. Very clever. I mean I've seen aerospace engineers attacking the problems like amateurs. Pretty good video
Mix your rudder and throttle to compensate for prop torque. You also could have mounted the entire fan on a servo for steering.Nice build!
Robert Lunsford yeh i like the idea of mounting the fan as a rudder as well great idea
Turning the whole fan would make it pretty complicated to design the air intake for the skirt... On a Hovercraft with a seperate propeller for the skirts it would work fine I guess...
or just turn the duct itself
Jusb1066 But then you lose the thrust advantage of a ducted fan.
The major problem with turning the hole fan would be the rotational forces generated from rotating a spinning object. Anyone play with a top before?
I've seen some real life small hovercraft that use a pair of thrust reverser buckets that can flip back into the air stream independently, one on each side. Use one at a time to turn or both for a fast stop, and if you feather the input just right you can hold still without losing lift.
Someone's been watching Ivan Miranda haha. You two should collaborate sometime in the future.
That's some impressive engineering on the chassis, good job man! Especially with how simple assembly is!
I reckon the HQ 6 bladed prop would be nice if cut down to fit.
This is your best video yet. Some really nice design features. I especially like how the fan and servo mount on a single bolt.
Something tells me that sometime in the future, you will be flying around England in an ultralight of your own design/construction...
Yay for design without supports! I find the challenge of designing for 3d printing absolutely amazing.
You could add a heading hold heli gyro!
Very impressive Sir. I was wowed at how you thought of mounting the servo and turbine together.
Nice, great job, I like it 😊😀😊
I vacuum formed one once for my GCSE DT project. Worked out pretty well but went with thin plywood in the end.
All of which was unnecessarily complex. You can just use laminated polystyrene and pipe lagging round the edge. For the power to weight you can get from scale models a flexible skirt isn't needed
Hey, was just thinking why not tripple aerofoils on the rear, you could keep the servo in it's current position, and link the outer foils...just a thought! Great video, enjoy your channel!
Richard McDonnell Double rudders would be pretty easy, just need to drill two holes for pivots, and use the servo horns to connect linkages
I love the detailed explanations of your design features and decisions. You really do an excellent job. I wish I could like it more than once!!
Is there any place you sell or give out the files for the 3D prints? I love it!
I don't have it so I'm not sure, but I think on his patreon!
You just solved my skirt problem. It's been doing my head in on my homemade foam hovercraft.
I love your design. Mine has a foam box at the bottom of the propeller (not ducted) and ported evenly and 2 cells are more than enough. My mates 4 cell li po broke the moter mount but it works not quite as well as your design and now I'm rambling lol
18:07 Great toy!
The quality of your content is far above a lot of 3d printing/rc/experimental channels I see. Keep it up!
*"As far as I am aware (correct me if I am wrong), the hollow ducts of this hovercraft frame couldn't be manufactured in ONE piece using any other manufacturing technique."*
Technically you could have cast the whole thing.
Hey Tom, cool machine! Hovercraft are a TON of fun!
There's a simple trick for making perfect skirts with no effort. Grab a new heavy duty trash bag and don't open it. Just spread it out so it's 2 layers thick on a table. Place your craft on the table and trace out the craft 's profile x percent bigger than the hull, where x is the size of your skirt deflated. There's some math you can do to find x for a certain skirt radius, but i generally eyeball it and go about 30-60mm larger than the hull depending on it's size. Now take a hot soldering iron and on a flat surface, trace out the line with the tip dragging at an angle so that it melts the two layers together and creates a seam at the same time the cut is made. Practice on a bag with a chisel tip held at an angle until you can get a perfectly sealed seam and the cut in one pass. It's not as hard as it sounds.
Another tip, try a cylindrical rudder. Just 3d print up a ring about 1/2 the diameter of your fan shroud with a servo horn hole on the bottom and offset it to the rear so it doesn't contact the prop.
Also, i've found that you CAN control hovercraft precisely without using a bucket rudder, but it takes a VERY quick hand on the throttle and learning how low you can go on power without dragging. Fly at low power and use quick blips of throttle and heavy rudder to initiate and halt yaw, and lead the throttle. Learn how much to give it to start and stop yawing because by the time you see the craft move it's too late. Hovercraft flying is a feel thing, be aggressive when setting a yaw rate but smooth when guiding the craft under moderate power.
Single fans are silly simple but a good dual fan is a huge improvement in performance. A decent computer case or server rack fan that pulls 1-3a moves plenty of air to inflate a skirt on larger craft than yours, you might be able to get away with a smaller blower style fan or two on that size craft without needing two whole brushless outrunners and all that noise. Another tip, double hull craft are much more stable, and one huge key to stability is sizing the skirt diameter so that when fully inflated, the lowest point of the skirt is just inside the perimeter of the outermost upper deck. If it's outside the hull it'll deflate the skirt on turns, feel mushy and have lots of roll. Too far inside and it'll be twitchy and unstable. On a double hull machine it allows you to add a "stabilization" hole instead of just venting the edges of the skirt. Basically, it's a hole in the hull at the dynamic center of the craft that lets about 50% of the air from the fan blower or duct diverter pass straight down and ensure positive pressure at the center of the craft that encourages even flow under the skirt edges. some craft do well just by inflating the skirt with static pressure and letting all the air pass through the center, smaller craft especially.
One more thing with a double hull twin fan craft that has a fan lying horizontally you'll encounter the problem of torque yawing the craft under fan power. This problem seems to scare many people away from even building this type of craft, but there's an easy solution. Just put the appropriate angle of vanes in between the top and bottom hull to correct the airflow. Experimentation with foam and tape or hot glue to fix temporary corrector vanes will get you the angle you need, then once you know what it is, add it to your stl file as needed.
Here's a playlist of some of my hovercraft, both skirted, skirtless, single and dual fan. ruclips.net/video/ocuYTigFA4o/видео.html
That’s well cool
this is soo satisfying when putting the peaces together... SATISFACTION!!
nice project i like it !!
what do you think about en electric longboard !! after the electriv Bike V3 i think a an electric longboard could be your next project !!
Myster Orel nah there are too many people that have done that already
DerpyDoom yeah I know that and i have also watch many of them ! But Tom made his project in a diffrent way and maybe he will show us something very differente !!
Myster Orel Yeah that would be great. Maybe we could have a good, easy to follow tutorial(Not saying no one else doesn't have one but toms would be the best)
Tanner Constantine yeah for sure
Wow that rudder solution was super elegant!
I thought peter sripol did something like this.
Tom, each time i see you've uploaded a new video - i drop everything and watch it. you are a brilliant guy and I thank you for sharing. i am not only learning a lot from you, but i do this with a smile as well. keep up the good work. waiting for your next video s to come.
For a ginger this guy is smart. I bet he has a soul
Sundee racist idiots like you are not needed in the Community
racist
DerpyDoom its a joke idiots
DerpyDoom I found the ginger
DerpyDoom r/whoosh
I really like your red and blue color scheme for 3d printing, keep up the cool stuff man
What happens if you scale it up?
It would be bigger :P
pizza_boy18 Need a bigger motor
Hmm that could be interesting... I think I have a motor that will run a 6 inch propeller (3inch propeller on this) to build a 2:1 scale replica ;)
ruclips.net/video/7XRz-CzUWPE/видео.html
A really cool idea is to scale it up for outdoor use but keep most of the design. Perhaps as long as a skateboard. Some parts would still be able to be 3D printed.
Love your videos!
Oh man, this video spoke to me in a way that I can't describe from my childhood.
Cool!
You single handedly motivated me to buy a 3d printer. Keen to get started
Hey. tom I am from India😁😁
sub to pewdiepie
yet another great project, well documented, explained and really good to watch!
Looking at the printing section I can suggest a couple changes to improve your print and reduce stringing, I also have a few CR10s:
give it a coast distance of about 0.10 - 0.20 - depending on temp.
increase retraction speed.
FIRST
Exceptionally well done mate. A very creditable job of design, construction and the problem solving was done exquisitely. Very, very impressed, thank you for sharing, 11x👍🏻👏
Cool project. I liked how you designed the cable paths
This is an absolute brilliant design! Thanks for sharing!
Brilliant. Well done. Friday's are so much more exciting.......
Nice Project. Thx for the vid. Use a grid-fin-ruder. It is very efficient, light-weight and easy to print. And I recomend a use of membrane-shaped air-skirt: it consists of a three parts: two flat membranes and one riggit-ring for tight connecting of membranes.
Tom Stanton
Nice design and troubleshooting.
This is amazing. I may even buy a 3d printer to build my own. Great video.. Thanks.
Thanks Tom. Enjoy the channel :) Have purchased the files to have a play with.
Absolutely brilliant and very nicely constructed!
14:35 - I was a bit concerned for your fingers there 😂
Love your videos! Cheers!
Awesome! I love the rudder Innovation that worked out well
The reason for the hovercraft tilting over to its left is that the motor is rotating to the right and the angular momentum it has tries to flip the hovercraft.
The problem is less obvious when it's hovering lower as it then has less space for the left edge to come down.
Tom is a genious in his field.
Very nice. I've ordered a 3d printer so binge watching a lot of videos to get ideas and I love this.
At first I'm going to build wired control things like cranes and maybe a digger but I'll get onto RC items at some point
Drive it on a Lake! That would be fun, and approve its hovering. Simply just looks cool.
3D printing is nice and all, but last year I did really similar about twice that size using coroplast (for platform, duct, shroud, steering vanes) and a foam pool noodle as the surround. it's light so it doesn't take a lot of power, and guaranteed to float! the pool noodle is also a great bumper/skirt. it only rises 2-3 mm for not having an inflatable skirt, so naturally won't do as well over rougher surfaces. about 1/3 of the shroud is duct, it gets more positive pressure running a 6 blade 5" 3P prop, 2212 motor 2700kv because it was cheap.
This is legit, I'm super impressed with how well it worked on the first go around. Also was really glad to see it all in a single video, I like the multi part videos as well, but sometimes they feel cut a little too short :) Excellent work on this!
Great idea... Fun to watch. Might make one myself!
Awesome design! Can't wait to see what's next.
Nice first attempt. Can't wait to see version #2. Hopefully it will have the dual rudder design.
That was so pleasing to watch.
Nice work mate, i like the second rudder. It improves syerring abiliry.
I have one with 3 lever rudder set up and its harder to control than your 2nd rudder. Keep up the research, its very interesting. Thanks.
Great job Tom, every time I watch one of your videos It makes me want to improve upon my own rc projects just that much more! Very nice build.
Clamp the skirt also to the middle and make holes for the air to escape. Almost like a tube around the craft. I did a big one years ago. This will prevent water sand and shit getting inside
Thanks Bengt, I'm working on an inner skirt clamp right now! Just had a look at your hovercraft from back in 2013 and it looks like it worked awesome is the snow! We've just had some snow here in the UK, so I'll be out testing soon ;)
Another thing you could do for the rudder is mount one on either side of the first one, all connected to the same servo. The other two work in unison and should massively effect the directional air coming out
Another well thought out design. I always enjoy your work. Thanks for sharing.
That's awesome, dude! Really, really nice work and design! 😀
Nicely done. I have often wondered why hovercrafts dont have one pivoting fan in the front and another in the rear. That way you could have complete control of the direction of movement and yaw.
Wow, that's some nice engineering done there. Love it
Damn it! Ok you won me over, I'll sign up to Patron and get ya supported soon. My son and I love seeing your videos pop up on the subscription feed, he will love to try this.
I do so enjoy your videos and the explanations you give for the various decisions you make. Keep up the great work.
Awesome build!