Repair Manual mentioned in the video: www.alldata.com/diy-us/en?affiliate_id=277538&click_id=4377890616&clickId=4377890616 (Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order) OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon Check out my merch: easyautofix.creator-spring.com/ Buy a new voltage regulator: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/4eX24o Here are some of my favorite items that you might like: Tools: amzn.to/3xNDb8g Car Vacuum: amzn.to/3EjhPSJ Cleaning Tools: amzn.to/3El7dCG Water Repellency Wiper Blade: amzn.to/3utvK50 Cleaning Gel For Cars: amzn.to/36NIiMr Portable Air Pump for Car Tires: amzn.to/3uBuPzA Headlight Restoration Kit: amzn.to/3qDpOVH Amp Jump Starter: amzn.to/3pMd0vx
That's my issue now...Gonna replace the V.R. and hopefully that solves the issue! Battery died,Went to buy new battery,Wouldnt run,Bought new alt and everythingwas good. Woke up next morning for worl and it was dead! Bought new Batt and Alt. Same thing..DEAD! (2000 Ford Explorer XLS 4.0)
? I=V/R If you double the voltage to a fixed resistive load the amperage will double. 2A=100V/50R While 4A=200V/50R. In appliance use the amps go down because the resistance is increased -- lowering the amps, while maintaining the wattage.
What would cause my battery light yo come on when starts but go off after idling or driving 15 minutes or so ? Car starts fine. Also each addition restart thru the day the light doesnt come back on. Some days it never comes on at all for up to four straight days.
I have a 2013 Cadillac CTS Performance. On mine sometimes when I start the car the voltage will read 14.9 or 14.8 never higher than that, when I drive it goes down to 14.4 then 14.5 and may stay constant at 14.4 again. Im not sure if this is normal. It is a new alternator and battery is fine. Is this normal?
I have a 2020 JGC with a 320 alternator for my system… during the summer it will dip down like 12.8 unless I give it some gas and it will rise to like 14… will this help keep the voltage stable?
Possibly if not upgrade alternator wire which sounds like may have been done. Will help with power drop in the heat. Also with that alternator I'm sure your system is rather large, run a capacitor. It will help stabilize your voltage womt increase just help keep It the same and healthy.
Hi, can the opposite happen. That is the amps are lower voltage is around 13.6 v. I have a Merc W204. Red battery light comes on. When I check on the cluster, I have voltage at around 13.6 v and the IB moves between -50 to about 30.
I replaced my battery, replaced my alternator, and thereafter my headlights (low beams) got fried because of the PCM/EXU on my '02 Mazda Protegé5 is faulty. The voltage regulator is inside of the brains. So I gotta replace and check to see if that fixes my high rpm sending an overcharge throughout the car.
Funny, I found out newer vehicles, a failure of this regulator is bad, though older ones it is not as serious depending on your customization. I thought I could let this go, but since this is newer it is even worse. Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems things changes in recent times. I am no mechanic, just doing research. Though as we know, Google is not a 100% accurate source of information. The battery cell went bad so we replaced the battery, we do not use amps or speakers ect, but it seems this does not matter on the newer vehicles. So I guess I was wrong, possibly could be wrong about this as well.
@@shawnmendrek3544 i noticed today it's really only while driving, idling next to culvers waiting for my food, it didnt seem to be dimming or brightening
I have one problem When measuring the voltage on the battery terminals while the engine is running, it gives 14 volts, which means that the generator is working properly??? However, when I disconnect the battery cable, the car stops. What is the reason?
No it doesn’t… V=IR where V is Potential difference (measured in voltage) I is current (measured in amps) and R is resistance (measured in ohms) therefore V is directly proportional to I, meaning that as voltage increases so does current.
For the power to stay the same, if voltage increases amperage decreases. P = V x I If they both increase, wattage goes up as well Pretty sure that’s what the comment was referring to
i have a 2006 chevy silverado and when im driving the dashboard turns off and then back on,the radio too like the truck stays on running but no light or power what could it be?
Any insight what the cause of an alternator to put out voltage but no amperage? Specifically an 2008 CL550… voltage regulators seem to be a culprit with Mercedes, but I’ve never came across this problem before and don’t want to throw parts at it
hey brother plz reply back , i am having ford fiesta diesel , whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i revv the car till 4k rpm it disappears , and wont come back till i turn off the car , what is the issue
It sounds like the alternator isn't putting out the correct voltage at idle. Revving the engine increases the alternator's output, which can temporarily raise the voltage and turn off the warning light. Using a multimeter what is the voltage of the battery when the car is idling? Also, what is the voltage of the battery with the vehicle off?
@@motologist1917 Thank you for providing the voltage readings. Based on the information provided, it appears that the alternator is not adequately charging the battery when the engine is idling. A healthy charging system should typically produce a voltage of around 13.5 to 15 volts when the engine is running. The fact that the voltage remains low (11.4 to 11.6 volts) even when the engine is running indicates a problem with the alternator's output at idle. The increase in voltage to 14.2 volts when you rev the engine suggests that the alternator is capable of producing the correct voltage under higher RPM conditions. Given these findings, it's likely that there is an issue with the alternator itself or its associated components such as the voltage regulator.
I have a Town and Country minivan and my alternator stopped working I replace alternator but still not working I want to bypass PCM / computer because I just need the battery to charge. I have an external voltage regulator and I can get power from fuse box that turns on when the key is on. It should work but it's not Alternator is new and checked and voltage regulator is new too. But still not charging I am missing something, but I don't know what. Can you help me? I will generously make a donation to you. Thanks
@@LubaLuba1 Have you checked the decoupler pulley? Think of it like a clutch for the alternator - it lets it spin freely in certain situations. If this pulley isn't working right, it could mess up how the alternator charges the battery. ruclips.net/video/e7Y30ZNLyoo/видео.html&ab_channel=Anttiajt Additionally, have you checked the alternator fuse? A blown fuse can disrupt the flow of electricity to the alternator, preventing it from charging the battery effectively. Lastly, ensure all wiring and connectors are tight, especially those connecting the battery and alternator. Loose or corroded connections can impede the flow of electricity and cause charging problems.
@@easyautofix Theres no fuse its a 2011 minivan. The alternator is new and was tested too but when I try to install external regulator it still didnt work. Maybe the alternator has its own regulator and thats interfering. No one is talking about it must be a mystery.
@@LubaLuba1 I would recommend checking all wires to ensure none are torn or damaged. In more severe cases, the issue could potentially involve the PCM, but this should be considered as a last resort.
Repair Manual mentioned in the video:
www.alldata.com/diy-us/en?affiliate_id=277538&click_id=4377890616&clickId=4377890616
(Use code AD10VA for 15% off one-year subscriptions for any US Order)
OBD2 Scanner: amzn.to/3PHRplS
Have car-related questions? Check out JustAnswer! They have verified auto mechanics that are available as live help 24/7: justanswer.9pctbx.net/qndBon
Check out my merch: easyautofix.creator-spring.com/
Buy a new voltage regulator: advanceautoparts.rt8x.net/4eX24o
Here are some of my favorite items that you might like:
Tools: amzn.to/3xNDb8g
Car Vacuum: amzn.to/3EjhPSJ
Cleaning Tools: amzn.to/3El7dCG
Water Repellency Wiper Blade: amzn.to/3utvK50
Cleaning Gel For Cars: amzn.to/36NIiMr
Portable Air Pump for Car Tires: amzn.to/3uBuPzA
Headlight Restoration Kit: amzn.to/3qDpOVH
Amp Jump Starter: amzn.to/3pMd0vx
You forgot to mention a bad voltage regulator may also cause a parasitic draw draining the battery and killing the battery
That's my issue now...Gonna replace the V.R. and hopefully that solves the issue! Battery died,Went to buy new battery,Wouldnt run,Bought new alt and everythingwas good. Woke up next morning for worl and it was dead! Bought new Batt and Alt. Same thing..DEAD! (2000 Ford Explorer XLS 4.0)
The voltage regulator is part of the alternator on most vehicles but not all.
Did you take the ground wire loose from the frame and clean it and the frame where it's attached?
That's true. I just found out last Sunday in my car.
Not mine@@HandyTim
Would have been nice to know before it blew up my electrical system
Hi✋, does a bad alternator/regulator can cause bad idle and poor acceleration ?
actually as voltage increased amps will decrease fuses will not blow
? I=V/R If you double the voltage to a fixed resistive load the amperage will double. 2A=100V/50R While 4A=200V/50R. In appliance use the amps go down because the resistance is increased -- lowering the amps, while maintaining the wattage.
What would cause my battery light yo come on when starts but go off after idling or driving 15 minutes or so ? Car starts fine. Also each addition restart thru the day the light doesnt come back on. Some days it never comes on at all for up to four straight days.
where is the 2019 nissan kicks alternater fuse or the voltage regulater
Thanks, ernest
My lights on my r6 blow everytime I go over mid rpms was told could be a bad regulator but my battery and fuses are fine. Any suggestions?
I kept blowing headlight bulbs. Ended up being the alternator over charging. 18.5 volts!
I have a 2013 Cadillac CTS Performance. On mine sometimes when I start the car the voltage will read 14.9 or 14.8 never higher than that, when I drive it goes down to 14.4 then 14.5 and may stay constant at 14.4 again. Im not sure if this is normal. It is a new alternator and battery is fine. Is this normal?
The 2 pins that run on the spindle are warn down. Is that mean the alternator is bad or the voltage regulator is bad
Voltage regulator is bad of the 2 pins are worn down. It just means they're worn and can't extend to touch and make contact.
I have a 2020 JGC with a 320 alternator for my system… during the summer it will dip down like 12.8 unless I give it some gas and it will rise to like 14… will this help keep the voltage stable?
Possibly if not upgrade alternator wire which sounds like may have been done. Will help with power drop in the heat. Also with that alternator I'm sure your system is rather large, run a capacitor. It will help stabilize your voltage womt increase just help keep It the same and healthy.
Bad alternator
Hi, can the opposite happen. That is the amps are lower voltage is around 13.6 v. I have a Merc W204. Red battery light comes on. When I check on the cluster, I have voltage at around 13.6 v and the IB moves between -50 to about 30.
I got a 2007 Lincoln Town car limousine it tested for a bad voltage regulator can I actually go into that alternator and replace just the regulator
Does thus guy not reply to his subs replies?!?!
My 2015 BMW is putting out 15.6 volts, after filling battery it started to boil out. Possibly put in too much water.
I have a 53 merc with crazy acting light switch. Low batt, bad switch, bad regulator or ?????
ive replaced the alternater still getting less then 12 volts at battery
I replaced my battery, replaced my alternator, and thereafter my headlights (low beams) got fried because of the PCM/EXU on my '02 Mazda Protegé5 is faulty. The voltage regulator is inside of the brains. So I gotta replace and check to see if that fixes my high rpm sending an overcharge throughout the car.
You can install an external voltage regulatory. $75 in parts. 1 hour job
Will a bad voltage regulator break the alternator?
God bless you thanks
and thank you!
About engine vibrating??
Right on
U awesome man
no no, you are awesome!
Funny, I found out newer vehicles, a failure of this regulator is bad, though older ones it is not as serious depending on your customization. I thought I could let this go, but since this is newer it is even worse. Correct me if I am wrong, but it seems things changes in recent times. I am no mechanic, just doing research. Though as we know, Google is not a 100% accurate source of information.
The battery cell went bad so we replaced the battery, we do not use amps or speakers ect, but it seems this does not matter on the newer vehicles. So I guess I was wrong, possibly could be wrong about this as well.
would it cause while driving, headlights and dash to intermittently slightly dim and then brighten?
Yes. Experienced this first hand only after the regulator failed. Then the battery died, requiring jumps.
@@shawnmendrek3544 i noticed today it's really only while driving, idling next to culvers waiting for my food, it didnt seem to be dimming or brightening
I am not a mechanic, not even 2%. My observation, I should have noted that.@@JaceD4V1S88
When mine went bad it affected performance, sensor were malfunctioning
Will it be better just to replace the whole alternator?
That is my question as well.
I have one problem
When measuring the voltage on the battery terminals while the engine is running, it gives 14 volts, which means that the generator is working properly??? However, when I disconnect the battery cable, the car stops. What is the reason?
That’s usually bad alternator
Could it affect the idle? I have an issue where the car idles inconsistently 4 seconds at a time, with a difference of 400rpm. Please help! Thanks
Probably not
Clean your MAF sensor or replace, usually placed in the intake charge pipe to read air flow. That’s the most common problem with idle
Second 52 was what happend to me today
This is Chris from Chris Fix???
If voltage increase amperage decrease
No it doesn’t… V=IR where V is Potential difference (measured in voltage) I is current (measured in amps) and R is resistance (measured in ohms) therefore V is directly proportional to I, meaning that as voltage increases so does current.
For the power to stay the same, if voltage increases amperage decreases. P = V x I
If they both increase, wattage goes up as well
Pretty sure that’s what the comment was referring to
i have a 2006 chevy silverado and when im driving the dashboard turns off and then back on,the radio too like the truck stays on running but no light or power what could it be?
BCM
Problem with the connection on the cluster
Any insight what the cause of an alternator to put out voltage but no amperage? Specifically an 2008 CL550… voltage regulators seem to be a culprit with Mercedes, but I’ve never came across this problem before and don’t want to throw parts at it
High resistance
Can it affect an BRC gas system?
how to check ic regulator with no brushes?
Hell no! If voltage goes up, amps go down! Come on guy, wtf?
hey brother plz reply back , i am having ford fiesta diesel , whenever i start the car battery warning light comes on the dash but if i revv the car till 4k rpm it disappears , and wont come back till i turn off the car , what is the issue
It sounds like the alternator isn't putting out the correct voltage at idle. Revving the engine increases the alternator's output, which can temporarily raise the voltage and turn off the warning light. Using a multimeter what is the voltage of the battery when the car is idling? Also, what is the voltage of the battery with the vehicle off?
@@easyautofix when the car is on ignition it is 11.6 but when i start it is still 11.6 to 11.4 , but if i rev it will be 14.2
@@motologist1917 Thank you for providing the voltage readings. Based on the information provided, it appears that the alternator is not adequately charging the battery when the engine is idling. A healthy charging system should typically produce a voltage of around 13.5 to 15 volts when the engine is running.
The fact that the voltage remains low (11.4 to 11.6 volts) even when the engine is running indicates a problem with the alternator's output at idle. The increase in voltage to 14.2 volts when you rev the engine suggests that the alternator is capable of producing the correct voltage under higher RPM conditions.
Given these findings, it's likely that there is an issue with the alternator itself or its associated components such as the voltage regulator.
@@easyautofix i also think that the voltage regulater is the prblm , do u think that their is corosion built on the connectors of voltage regulator
@@motologist1917 It's possible
Mine went bad on my Lincoln 😮damn it's always something!
Thanks for sharing. What year is it, and what is the mileage on it?
I have a Town and Country minivan and my alternator stopped working I replace alternator but still not working I want to bypass PCM / computer because I just need the battery to charge.
I have an external voltage regulator and I can get power from fuse box that turns on when the key is on. It should work but it's not Alternator is new and checked and voltage regulator is new too.
But still not charging I am missing something, but I don't know what. Can you help me? I will generously make a donation to you. Thanks
No need for the donation, thank you. With the car on, what does the voltage measure on the battery?
@@easyautofix 12.6
@@LubaLuba1 Have you checked the decoupler pulley? Think of it like a clutch for the alternator - it lets it spin freely in certain situations. If this pulley isn't working right, it could mess up how the alternator charges the battery.
ruclips.net/video/e7Y30ZNLyoo/видео.html&ab_channel=Anttiajt
Additionally, have you checked the alternator fuse? A blown fuse can disrupt the flow of electricity to the alternator, preventing it from charging the battery effectively.
Lastly, ensure all wiring and connectors are tight, especially those connecting the battery and alternator. Loose or corroded connections can impede the flow of electricity and cause charging problems.
@@easyautofix Theres no fuse its a 2011 minivan. The alternator is new and was tested too but when I try to install external regulator it still didnt work. Maybe the alternator has its own regulator and thats interfering. No one is talking about it must be a mystery.
@@LubaLuba1 I would recommend checking all wires to ensure none are torn or damaged. In more severe cases, the issue could potentially involve the PCM, but this should be considered as a last resort.