@ 6:57 it looks like it is in A/C mode (snowflake symbol) above the set point temp at the top but when he cuts back the light is pulsating orange which should indicate heat mode so I am not sure. Wave 2 manual: cdn.solarpowersupply.eu/files/(EN)%20Manual%20Ecoflow%20wave2-20230419.pdf The only theory I can come up with is the hose is a tight L behind the curtain and it throttles it which could explain the lower Wattage with the hose connected? Heat Pumps do work even in negative degrees Fahrenheit
I kinda agree with you, but I feel like for the price he paid for it himself without it being sent to him/with a sponsor, he probably read the instructions. Nobody would actually do that and play dumb when they're playing with $2000 basically. But then again we're talking about Tyler here...
Straight from the first page of the manual: Ambient Temperature for Operation: 41F - 122F... Tell me you didn't read the manual without telling me you didn't read the manual
This video is pretty much proof that Tyler's "dummy act" is just that...an act. If he can spit out heat exchange numbers like that, I guarantee you he can pronounce zucchini, merlot, chardonnay and filet mignon.
The website does list the lowest operating temperature as 41°F. Which is still useful in certain places (Where I live it only gets to freezing a few times a year but is 40s-50s most of the time), but definitely not in harsher climates. There are cold weather heat pumps that can operate well under freezing temperatures but idk what they do to make them capable of that.
Tyler, I love you bro but sometimes I think you mess up on your experiments.. 😅 I’m relatively certain that the hoses are for the AC function side of things. Why would you pull in 20 degree air from outside to heat and warm the indoors?
They are for the AC yes. A traditional heat pump uses refrigerant to move BTUs in or out of spaces. You can literally make your own version of this thing by getting a 150 dollar window unit and just flipping it around in the window lol. Or a portable unit; duct tape some cheap insulated tubing to the intake and the supply air side and leave the vent tube for the hot side off.
Yeah since when does a heater need to be hooked up outside. Keep it in the room and all heat is in the room. He is sending heat outside lol. The hoses only need to be connected outside when you are trying to cool the room like every other AC.
@@nevernever2002 Sure you could flip a window unit around if you want all the humidity from outside to be dripped all over your floor. AC units not only remove heat but they remove water from the air.
For heating, I get the impression this product is more for camping trips in November, not for 20 degree winter days. If it gets a little chilly at night, this can bring it up to comfortable. But not for winter time
Literally was about to put a comment along the lines of "heat pumps are more efficient" when you went right on and acknowledged it yourself lol... dammit Tyler, with your Jalapenos and electric hammers and whatnots
Heatpumps draw heat energy from the environment and this process uses energy not the conversion of electrical energy to heat. So its actually quite realistic to get about 3 times the energy you put in out in heat, because all the pump does is "concentrate" the heat in a smaller volume of air so to speak. To manage that however the thing needed to draw that heat out of the outside air and put it into some air inside and afterwards geting the air back out again. That means you need 2! hoses to the outside, intake and outtake not just one. You either let the thing draw heat from the inside or blew the cooled air to put outside right back in. For having next to zero effect...
The reason for it using less energy with the rear inatke out the window, is down to the lower temperatures decreasing the suction pressure of the compressor which means it requires less power to "compress". As soon as the inatke is room temperature, the pressures starts to increase, it becomes harder to compress and will increase power consumption👍
I came to the comments hoping I wasn't the only one that understands HVAC! You have slightly restored my faith in humanity. To be honest I was sad to see Tyler obviously researched BTU but didn't do the same for heat pumps and was so confident in the limited understanding he had. I'm not bad mouthing him, I understand we and he can't be experts on everything. I still love the channel and will continue to watch but I was genuinely excited for this video and sadly let down by he's presentation.
That's exactly what I was going to say in addition to the higher discharge pressure with a warmer inlet air temperature. AC units behave the same way drawing more power as either the inside or the outside air temperature increases for the same reason. Inverter driven systems are a little different because they may run the compressor at less than full speed in heat mode when the outside temperature is higher and then run the compressor faster as the outside temperature drops to maintain (or at least try to maintain) the setpoint.
Well, inverter systems are more benefical energy wise as well. While being able to maintain a tighter differential, they dont have to kick in and out on full power all the time. They'll just hum away using next to no power. I did find the companys heat output calculations strange though, but thinking about it a little more. In the video, the heat energy thats being added to the room is also being used as the inlet air to boil off refrigerant, and then exhaust outside. So i guess the figures would match up in perfect conditions🤔
The heat pump in your garage has an electric back up, and that is what’s putting out 120 degrees. Heat pumps alone will only put out about 80 degrees as long as the outside temp is above 32 degrees. 5 years HVAC experience for anyone wondering plus 2 years trade school.
I think everyone here is watching technology connections, auto shenanigans, tylertube, post 10 etc... this is the web we caught ourselves in on youtube 😂
Duh ! IT'S A HEAT PUMP. The instructions say not use the exterior heat exchanger air inlet if below 40 deg F. Efficiency drops to the point it is nearly non-functional. Just use interior air to supply the heat exchanger and only connect the exhaust hose outside. Just have to address the negative air pressure with some other conditioned air source. Then it will work fine (within its design limitations).......
It’s a heat pump. They’re all basically useless at heating when the outside air goes below freezing. The fact that it’s even putting out 60° air without an auxiliary coil (which is what your home unit you referenced is doing) is pretty remarkable.
This is not true at all. Many units can function All the way down to 17°F without struggling. They just become less efficient at those cold temperatures because they have to go through a Defrost cycle
Heat pumps lose efficiency once outside temps fall below 40 degrees F down to 25 degrees F. Below 25 degrees F, they become ineffective as there is not enough residual heat in the air for it to pull, hence why when installing a heat pump, the tech will install an auxiliary heater indoors in order to heat the space once temps become too low. There is an actual thermal switch in the external heat pump that will switch the unit over to aux heat once temps fall below the threshold. Auxiliary Heat will turn on automatically when heat can no longer efficiently transfer heat from the outside air to the heat pump.
It's only rated down to 41*, that's why it didn't work when the temp was 20*. Your heat pump in your garage heats at that 20* because it also has a heating element in it which the wave 2 doesn't have. This is more a fair weather heat/ac device. Think, you want to just warm up or cool down a room that may have bad airflow from your normal HVAC system or just to warm up or cool down a tent. It's not an end all be all device even though they sort of claim it is.
I bought a refurbished one and never had a problem and way cheaper. Got mine off there Ebay store. On the display it will tell you the temperature of the air comes out also. Max is fan speed that is to fast for heat.
I have this and I already had an anker solix power bank with solar panels. Just letting everyone know the solix panels do charge the eco flow as well and it works fine with the anker products. You don’t have to buy the eco flow products to go with it
The reason why it can get more BTUs than the capacity of the battery is because it is most likely a heat pump. They can get up to 5x the efficiency of a regular resistive heater because it is just transferring the existing energy in the environment instead of adding additional energy. Edit: Probably the reason why the heater didn't work in the first part was because it wasn't vented. If it is a heat pump it will blow hot air out the front and cold air out the back creating an environment that is the same as what you started with. If you can vent the waste air to the outside you would get better results.
Heat pumps are limited by the pumped fluids' ability to evaporate/condense. If the ambient air is below the evaporation temperature of the fluid then the heat cycle will be unable to operate and you will just be pumping liquid at low pressures which is bad for a compressor pump. I bet the reason that the power level goes up is because as the evaporator warms up above the vaporization point of the fluid it quickly turns to gas increasing the pressure which in turn increases the pumping resistance that the unit sees.
Thumbs up for being honest I almost instantly click off a video if they are sponsored by the company. You know how many videos review eco flow products that are bought out from them vs not paid reviews is crazy! Keep up the great work!!!!
@fluffehgamer4712 I don't care if it can file my taxes for me. If I'm buying it for its main purpose of heating and cooling than it better be good at that.
Just turned the heat in mine on. 66° room air it’s blowing out 100.8° air. It’s not really cold out. But when it was in the mid 30’s outside its was still able to put out atleast 20° delta in temp difference. I believe ecoflow uses a not so low number for outside temp before it’s not as efficient. But it definitely worked when it got in the 30’s. The AC part in the upper 80’s an humid as hell. Depending just like the delta on heat. The fan speed. On low it’s about a 20° degree delta. Speed two it’s like 16-17 speed 3 is like 15-16 and turbo is like 14-15° difference. These things are made for off grid/power out and to be able to run off of battery banks aside from the attachable one. A not be a huge energy draw. I forget the square footage they claim but these things are for tent sized areas. Not home sized rooms and big duel rear axle rv’s ect. So it it don’t work for someone. They don’t know how to work with its limitations and maybe do different things to capitalize on its ability.
I love that you didn’t accept a free unit. Ecoflow literally sends free product to everyone… good job keeping it real!! They would be drooling at the mouth to send you free stuff…
I am glad someone finally tested it without the intake hose on video. Just as I thought, it heats better without it at cold temps. It also helps to insulate those hoses. That is a lot for an AC and I would not be willing to pay that for it. I would save a bunch and just get a window unit.
Why would it need cold air from outside if it is heating up the air from inside? Sounds like you are just supposed to keep the hose inside so that it can keep circulating inside air.
But if your using it in a tent or a small building that is not insulated you would get the same results as he did with the tubes out the window so iam glade he did it that way even though you would get more heat from not useing the tubes
@@raycenewswanger4974If it is a proper heat pump, yes it is. That's how they work, they move energy around (heat = energy) look up heat pumps real ones. Technology connections makes a great video on how they work. If it is however just a resistive heater it's probably trash, but Tyler isn't exactly known for his experimental rigor there is a room size and insulation ratio that will simply prevent a heat pump of this size from doing it's job. And there is a temperature outside where it will simply not be possible for it to extract latent heat from the air outside. (Just before freezing is basically when they fall off a cliff and he clearly states it is below freezing outside)
That's not exactly how Heat pumps work. Heat pumps have reversing valves that change the direction of refrigerant compared to a regular AC system. Think of a Heat pump turning the inside AC coil into the outdoor coil and vice versa, depending on the heating/cooling load. So, the exhaust tube Tyler was using was blowing cold air outside.
So...he didn't read the directions. NO heating system is going to be able to heat 20 degree air to 70 degrees in one go. The whole point is recirculating the air. So every pass through the machine, it is heating slightly warmer air. Air conditioners do the same thing. They RECIRCULATE the air. They don't take the 90 degree outside air and magically cool it through the freon coils in one pass.
Eh...actually, most heat pumps and air conditioners can. My central system heat pump is almost 20 years old and has a 28-33F degree temperature drop across the inside coil in cooling, 35-40F rise in temperature in heating mode. I can vouch for 20F as the coldest we ever had here was 24F, but at 24F it was able to maintain 72F inside.
I would agree with you, however you said heating system… a 400,000 btu propane furnace can absolutely heat a 4000 sq foot shop to “un-livable” in no time lol
That’s not how it works. It’s physics and pressure. Air, however hot, can be compressed enough to lower the kinetic energy and slow the air molecules, cooking the air. All air conditioning systems like this operate on these fundamental principles, and which is why they have Freon and compression systems
Mine keeps making a loud squeal when turned on. Sounds like a belt slipping. Haven't been able to find any information about it, or any manuals showing how to open it up to find out what is squealing. Any ideas?
I think it pulls in air through one hose; sucks the heat out of it and concentrates it to exchange with the air flow going through it in your room, and spits out that now-cooler outside air through the other outside hose. The cold outside air doesn't get into the room (principally). With so many hoses it does get a bit confusing. :) The theory is good - but this particular unit is hyped-up a bit from the looks of it and isn't the most efficient type and isn't rated for the outside temperature tested. I'd love to have a 500W similarly dimensioned device with those hose attachments that was rated for those temperatures and that could run continuously, and was good for A/C up to at least 104. I'm not sure they're available anywhere. :( My interest in this was piqued by those additional hose attachments ... for a moment I was fooled into thinking this might be a contender. :)
nb: for more extreme temperatures and such small amounts of power as 500W, I suppose seeing uninsulated hoses are a red flag lol. With large deltas between temperatures, then all that surface area presented by long hoses sitting between the big temperature difference is going to introduce some considerable efficiency loss. Those hoses effectively become something of a heat exchanger. You can buy similar hoses but with insulated cladding that will surely make some significant positive difference to the efficiency under those circumstances.
19:07 - With air source heat pumps this phenomenon is called COP degradation. This occurs when the temperature difference between outdoors and indoors decreases it becomes harder for the heat pump to extract heat from the outside air. To compensate for this the unit has to work harder, increasing the energy input to maintain the same heating capacity. I am not implying this particular AC/heat pump is efficient or perfect. The input power increase as the heat source temperature rises is normal for any air source heat pump.
Never use outside air . Only plus to this is it’s not sticking out when stealth camping . But not sure its worth $1000 more than a inverter window unit
1) Trying to make a piece of equipment do something do what it wasn’t designed to do and then saying it doesn’t work is dumb. 2) Not following the instructions and complaining about it is also dumb. 3) comparing to a purpose designed electric space heater is an unfair comparison. If you have full time access to 110v power, buying the EcoFlow to heat (not its primary purpose) is not a wise decision. If you are running in an of grid environment, like an RV or vanliving, and you need battery/solar powered AC, this is the perfect solution, and you get the added benefit of heating if needed, but most of those customers would know that there are much better solutions for just heating. Bottom line is that nobody that knows anything about what the need is buying this for heat.
Heat pumps start losing efficiency at 35 degrees. Exponentially under that. Your heat pump in your garage should have resistive heating elements as well. Its probably using 1 or all of them to supplement during cold weather outside
I have a heat pump bc I am in the south in the states but it's been down to 28 a few nights the past two winters and not once did my furnace run stage 1 and 2 which is heat pump with heat strips. Heat pumps run a lot better these days than older heat pumps.
Unless a heat pump is specifically rated for winter use, it's at most going to be good for a cool spring night. As soon as the temperature outside dips below 32 F, their efficiency plummets. I have one rated for 0 F, but it starts struggling well above that. It's still enough to heat my room, but I can tell that it couldn't handle much more. It probably doesn't help that my room isn't that well insulated either. Also yeah, a COP of 3 is pretty standard. A heat pump that draws 500W and has a COP of 3, should be putting out about 1500W of heat. It's not creating energy out of nothing, it's moving the energy from the outside air into the room.
Google "are heat pumps good in cold weather". Heats pumps are MORE efficient at heating when it's cold. That's because they require cold when transferring heat. Mostpeople get this confused because they think you can't get cold from heat and heat from cold, but that's exactly what heat pumps do. This thing isn't a heat pump, there's no external condenser unit, it's doing the condensing right where it's trying to heat/cool. It's just a bad space heater and a portable A/C.
The other thing about the dual hoses for A/C is, the intake will just be sucking the exhaust air... not "cool" outside air because the 2 hoses are right next to each other in the window. Maybe if you use 2 different windows it will work.
This thing is awesome in a small space like tent or vehicle. I found that it is recycling the air sucked through the front. So at initial heating/cooling of your space if you feed it cold/hot air it will will help it get your space to your temp way faster, then you can stop feeding the air and it will do fine maintaining the space temp.
The measurement of BTUs is mote applicable to how much energy is transferred from the intake air to the output air. If you are taking 20deg air and heating it to 60deg that is a considerable heat input. Tyler is being overly simplistic. Not reading the manual to find out the operating parameters of the device is also dodgy in my opinion... At least he tried it with the more logical approach of using one hose to exhaust the cold air. At least you would be able to sit in front of the unit in your camper and feel warmer... These are not really "space heaters". They are small portable units to make small spaces more comfortable. We are thinking about buying one, but understand its limitations. The advantage for us is that ONE device will do 2 things, which is a space and cost saving. We have a slide on camper shell that goes on a tray top 4WD.
Heat pumps will really only run and “work “ down to about 36 outside and this is on full size residential high efficient systems. So 20 out side is way to cold
Question...Since this is electric, why not remove the exhaust hose? Would that not also help with the heat and then put it on when you turn it to the A/C?
Bro you do understand that it's basically an air conditioner that works in Reverse right the only way for it to properly work it's for you to keep the inside air and keep recirculating that and as far as bringing it up to 70° or 68° at 500 w that's one third of what a space heater would use which is excellent not to mention you were trying to eat a room bigger than it was capable of and it still did it
Heat pumps don't create any heat. They move heat found in the environment, thermal energy already there. They expend energy moving the heat. I am curious as to the volume of the room and insulation rating. That would be useful information
The selling point on these things is really the AC power. There are many options for portable heaters. Even a small cheap propane unit does the job. Portable AC technology is not even close yet.
I think you should do a Google search. $250 - $400 portable A/C units exist, and are extremely common. I've had Honeywell for over 14 years. Same setup, one hose in, one out. Portable/small a/c units are NOT special. Heck, window a/c units are like 70 years old. No, a $1200 portable a/c is NOT a good thing. I could buy 2 portable a/c units and like 20 space heaters for that. 🤣
I think when the air is too cold, it can't use very much energy because it's not able to extract very much energy from the cold air. So it's just a product of physics since the amount of energy the unit consumes is proportionally related to the amount of energy it can extract from the intake.
Heat pumps pull heat out of the air and pump it where you want it, space heaters heat up coils with electricity to generate heat. A heat pump is not made to generate heat.
The video and some of the comments are.. interesting (aka super wrong / naïve). The unit is an heatpump that works at an (in ideal situations) at an 3.1x efficacy; hence the 500w -> 1500w heat. It HAS TO use TWO of the pipes (on the backside) in order to properly function; One pipe pulls in fresh air from the outside, extracts some heat from that and exhausts the now colder air via the other tube (if this is not done it will not do any work!). The same happens on the front of the unit; It pulls in fresh roomtemp air from the front, runs that though the radiator that now has the added heat that was just taken from the outside and exhausts that via the top back into the room. The reverse is true when using the unit to cool; hence you always need TWO pipes on the back (when using the unit indoor). Also the unit can only work up till 5 degrees Celsius, after that it will peddle (defrost) A LOT and it just won't be worth it to run at that moment. I use it to heat (and cool) my 10m2 office and on eco mode it only uses 287w and even less for cooling. The stated numbers (aka the 500w) is only what the unit is able to do at a maximum, it will use less if it is properly used.
Too bad real heat pumps don't actually pull air from anywhere. Where's the air ports on your fridge or freezer? (Hint, there aren't any) They are heat pumps too. The company is scamming people who don't know what a heat pump is. You cannot exchange heat for cold, and the other way around, in the same room. Vents don't matter. This thing is a cheap $150 portable A/C. 3.4 stars on Amazon. You're naive to assume the Chinese company is being honest 😂
I don't understand the 2 tube thing. So one pulls from outside, and the other exhausts hot air. Wouldn't it be better to pull in the air from inside the house/room that is going to be probably 10-20 degrees cooler than the outside air?
There wasn't a big difference in the heating there. You went from 54 up to 65 for an 11 degree change. Then with the space heater you went from 59 up to 72 which was only a 13 degree change. I know if you only look at the max temp number it seems like a big difference but you were really only testing how much change they could make in a 1 hour period and that was actually fairly close. If you wanted to look at max numbers then let them each run for several hours to see just how hot they can make the room.
Im working on a build for a plug in heater furnace box. It has a heat exchanger built in and a filter you can change. The heater runs on a thermostat plug and the fresh air fans run 24/7. Brings in fresh air, exchanges it across the exit air and is heated before being fan forced and directed to the floor. I hope to make a prototype soon and begin testing. 👍 I also have a cool idea I’m way too busy to even look at where you take a small iron stove and make it so you can burn multiple fuels. Attachments to burn propane, diesel, oil, wood, pellets etc. all you gotta do is let it cool down and change the attached pieces.
I thought I heard you say this is a heat pump, is that right? If so, heat pumps heat very slowly. It takes time to get a room up to temp and the heat you feel from the unit feels cool, but they can heat a room. In a heat pump heated home, the amount of air flow makes a huge difference in the temperature change. When Mine was installed, they told me to open all the air vents, because the more air flow you have, the better it can heat your space.
I think it is more intended for environments that dont get below like 50, thats not a comfortable temperature to sleep at for some people so they would appreciate being able to get like 72 out of 50 degree ambient, Its not really intended for environments like ours that actually get cold
Thanks for the great video! I think from your video, it'll struggle to heat a room, however if you attach the exhaust tube inside your sleeping bag or duvet it's going to be rather warm? So really this is a personal heater / cooler?
i think you're supposed to have a small camp fire outside and use the ducts to pull in that heated air... if you have ppl that spent $1200 for this then they'll believe that line to justify that they didn't get scammed...
for me it worked 4 hours then dropped an error number and that was it. testing it in the middle of summer in a white van with somehow isolated walls, not so much windows, did jack. not very impressed but I was convinced by one of the influencers. I can give a thumb up for customer support though
This is just my opinion. I feel how it is set up is the correct way but it is too cold outside. This unit basically puts the outdoor and indoor unit together if you compare it to a regular heat pump that has half the unit outside and the other inside on your wall or part of your furnace. The hoses venting outside are keeping what would be the outdoor part of the unit outside. If you disconnect the intake you will just be throwing your heated air back outdoors through the exhaust and creating negative pressure. Now your unit will be pulling cooler air from under the door, around windows, etc.. and be throwing your heated air out. Myself I wouldn't disconnect the intake hose and would set it up just like in the video and like it shows in the instructions. JMO
Now that it's getting warmer can you test the ac side of this unit that's is what I am interested in I never thought it would be much of a heater in the first place that was just a waste of time on ecoflow to ad it to drive up the cost but I want to know how does it cool
40F differential isn't that big of a deal. I normally run a 28F-35F split across the Inside coil on my home heat pump in cooling mode. In my car I've had 55F splits. But n th are non-standard ACs running my special sauce.
It evaporates before it comes out. I have a portable ac/heater it doesn’t even have a hole for water to come out because I’ve used it for years and haven’t seen any water on the floor
Doesn’t every window or wall air conditioner pull air from inside the room and exhaust it outside? lol the intake is on the side that’s in the room. That can’t be the only reason portable AC’s are inefficient.
Hey mate cooling/heating capacity in aircon/refrig is measured differently. You need input capacity kW. It's a totally different calculation. Love the channel bro
It's a heat pump, it's suppose to be outside? Why is it inside while heating. It could possibly cool inside but the way heat pumps work doesn't it need to be outside?
Its suppose to be run in a frozen bucket of water outside and only turned on during the winter full solstice. Idiot didnt read the manual before operation
RTFM. Test 1: Temperature is out of range. Needs to be 41F to 122F outside with two hoses. Test 2: In range, but crippled using one hose and pulling vacuum, causing cold air to creep in. The resistance heater test wasn't pulling a vacuum so it had a clear advantage. Test 3: Yet again, out of range, but better conditions. Amazing it actually worked at all. All of the tests were designed to make this unit fail, which is disappointing... not of the product, but of the integrity of the reviewer, who I think was smart enough to know better, as he was rattling off specs through the review.
Thumbs up if Tyler didn't read the instructions....again.
Of course he didn't. He did or did not do something and it's running improperly.
Yeah probably
i believe on heat your not supposed to use the tubes out the window but I could be wrong
@ 6:57 it looks like it is in A/C mode (snowflake symbol) above the set point temp at the top but when he cuts back the light is pulsating orange which should indicate heat mode so I am not sure.
Wave 2 manual: cdn.solarpowersupply.eu/files/(EN)%20Manual%20Ecoflow%20wave2-20230419.pdf
The only theory I can come up with is the hose is a tight L behind the curtain and it throttles it which could explain the lower Wattage with the hose connected? Heat Pumps do work even in negative degrees Fahrenheit
I kinda agree with you, but I feel like for the price he paid for it himself without it being sent to him/with a sponsor, he probably read the instructions. Nobody would actually do that and play dumb when they're playing with $2000 basically.
But then again we're talking about Tyler here...
700 for the battery is ridiculous.
I agree
But try $80,000 to replace the batteries on a 4 year old EV
Yes but it is a full battery station not just a battery pack for the ac unit
@@richardparmenter188🙄🥱
Depends how big the battery is 🤦🏻♂️😂😂😂
Please say you're going to return this so you can have that money to spend on more random things you've found on Amazon.
If only you knew his profit from having 2 channels lol.. he could burn this and get more pleasure than deal with returning it
@@AverageReviewsYTfr. He’s gonna make way more off this video than what the thing costs.
@@RookzNah 300k views is about $1000
@@danthemathman1768have you not considered brand/ad deals, like has done with manscaped and the food delivery services in the past?
He'll just write it off as a business expense
I paid $350 for my Frigidaire portable AC and it’s 14000 btu. It’s amazing in the summer in Las Vegas
Can you tell me more info on your unit?
Straight from the first page of the manual: Ambient Temperature for Operation: 41F - 122F... Tell me you didn't read the manual without telling me you didn't read the manual
This video is pretty much proof that Tyler's "dummy act" is just that...an act. If he can spit out heat exchange numbers like that, I guarantee you he can pronounce zucchini, merlot, chardonnay and filet mignon.
Keep telling yourself that😂
its supposed to be a joke, you're not supposed to believe it, we all love a good troll
We been known this, he does it since people comment about it which boosts his videos further into the algorithm. Big brain 200 iq move
Came here to say that
oh and that a juicer is for food
The website does list the lowest operating temperature as 41°F. Which is still useful in certain places (Where I live it only gets to freezing a few times a year but is 40s-50s most of the time), but definitely not in harsher climates. There are cold weather heat pumps that can operate well under freezing temperatures but idk what they do to make them capable of that.
Tyler, I love you bro but sometimes I think you mess up on your experiments.. 😅
I’m relatively certain that the hoses are for the AC function side of things. Why would you pull in 20 degree air from outside to heat and warm the indoors?
They are for the AC yes. A traditional heat pump uses refrigerant to move BTUs in or out of spaces. You can literally make your own version of this thing by getting a 150 dollar window unit and just flipping it around in the window lol. Or a portable unit; duct tape some cheap insulated tubing to the intake and the supply air side and leave the vent tube for the hot side off.
@nevernever2002 you mean for 47 years and I could have just done this.
Yeah since when does a heater need to be hooked up outside. Keep it in the room and all heat is in the room. He is sending heat outside lol. The hoses only need to be connected outside when you are trying to cool the room like every other AC.
@@nevernever2002 Sure you could flip a window unit around if you want all the humidity from outside to be dripped all over your floor. AC units not only remove heat but they remove water from the air.
500watts is 1706 watts. Period. There's no way to get more BTUs out of electric heat. It just isn't possible.
Better to pull a vacuum when it's that cold because it can keep reheating the already warmer air until it gets very hot
For heating, I get the impression this product is more for camping trips in November, not for 20 degree winter days. If it gets a little chilly at night, this can bring it up to comfortable. But not for winter time
Literally was about to put a comment along the lines of "heat pumps are more efficient" when you went right on and acknowledged it yourself lol... dammit Tyler, with your Jalapenos and electric hammers and whatnots
And his kwazadillas... seriously, Tyler...
I even wrote the whole thing out and then pressed play and he said it... smh
Heatpumps draw heat energy from the environment and this process uses energy not the conversion of electrical energy to heat. So its actually quite realistic to get about 3 times the energy you put in out in heat, because all the pump does is "concentrate" the heat in a smaller volume of air so to speak.
To manage that however the thing needed to draw that heat out of the outside air and put it into some air inside and afterwards geting the air back out again. That means you need 2! hoses to the outside, intake and outtake not just one. You either let the thing draw heat from the inside or blew the cooled air to put outside right back in. For having next to zero effect...
Sorry but what?
@@thepatternforms859 How heatpumps work. Do you need it with pictures?
Very glad you clarified about not sponsored etc. I had flashbacks for a moment and nearly clicked away.. 😂
The reason for it using less energy with the rear inatke out the window, is down to the lower temperatures decreasing the suction pressure of the compressor which means it requires less power to "compress". As soon as the inatke is room temperature, the pressures starts to increase, it becomes harder to compress and will increase power consumption👍
I came to the comments hoping I wasn't the only one that understands HVAC! You have slightly restored my faith in humanity. To be honest I was sad to see Tyler obviously researched BTU but didn't do the same for heat pumps and was so confident in the limited understanding he had. I'm not bad mouthing him, I understand we and he can't be experts on everything. I still love the channel and will continue to watch but I was genuinely excited for this video and sadly let down by he's presentation.
That's exactly what I was going to say in addition to the higher discharge pressure with a warmer inlet air temperature. AC units behave the same way drawing more power as either the inside or the outside air temperature increases for the same reason.
Inverter driven systems are a little different because they may run the compressor at less than full speed in heat mode when the outside temperature is higher and then run the compressor faster as the outside temperature drops to maintain (or at least try to maintain) the setpoint.
I hope he sees our comments and either edits the video or makes another addressing theses things.
@@eyebrows4 yes very true, although i did have to search up what a btu even was. I'm british as well🤣...
Well, inverter systems are more benefical energy wise as well. While being able to maintain a tighter differential, they dont have to kick in and out on full power all the time. They'll just hum away using next to no power.
I did find the companys heat output calculations strange though, but thinking about it a little more. In the video, the heat energy thats being added to the room is also being used as the inlet air to boil off refrigerant, and then exhaust outside. So i guess the figures would match up in perfect conditions🤔
The heat pump in your garage has an electric back up, and that is what’s putting out 120 degrees. Heat pumps alone will only put out about 80 degrees as long as the outside temp is above 32 degrees. 5 years HVAC experience for anyone wondering plus 2 years trade school.
no heat strips, its a 3 ton mini split
You would think that just every once in a while you would read the directions.
Thank you for taking one for the team! I hope this video goes out to a lot of people so they don't waste their money.
Disconnect both hoses for heat, the hose directs the heat outside during ac use?
No. You must connect at a minimum the exhaust hose. Both hoses for best performance
I have a feeling he watches technology connections.
I think everyone here is watching technology connections, auto shenanigans, tylertube, post 10 etc... this is the web we caught ourselves in on youtube 😂
Really though.
Lol thinking the same thing
@@mason6300out of the people you listed here I only watch Tyler tube and technology connections. Never heard of the other two
You dissing TC?
Duh ! IT'S A HEAT PUMP. The instructions say not use the exterior heat exchanger air inlet if below 40 deg F. Efficiency drops to the point it is nearly non-functional. Just use interior air to supply the heat exchanger and only connect the exhaust hose outside. Just have to address the negative air pressure with some other conditioned air source. Then it will work fine (within its design limitations).......
It’s a heat pump. They’re all basically useless at heating when the outside air goes below freezing. The fact that it’s even putting out 60° air without an auxiliary coil (which is what your home unit you referenced is doing) is pretty remarkable.
This is not true at all. Many units can function All the way down to 17°F without struggling. They just become less efficient at those cold temperatures because they have to go through a Defrost cycle
Can almost guarantee USER ERROR
Heat pumps lose efficiency once outside temps fall below 40 degrees F down to 25 degrees F. Below 25 degrees F, they become ineffective as there is not enough residual heat in the air for it to pull, hence why when installing a heat pump, the tech will install an auxiliary heater indoors in order to heat the space once temps become too low. There is an actual thermal switch in the external heat pump that will switch the unit over to aux heat once temps fall below the threshold. Auxiliary Heat will turn on automatically when heat can no longer efficiently transfer heat from the outside air to the heat pump.
It's only rated down to 41*, that's why it didn't work when the temp was 20*. Your heat pump in your garage heats at that 20* because it also has a heating element in it which the wave 2 doesn't have. This is more a fair weather heat/ac device. Think, you want to just warm up or cool down a room that may have bad airflow from your normal HVAC system or just to warm up or cool down a tent. It's not an end all be all device even though they sort of claim it is.
I bought a refurbished one and never had a problem and way cheaper.
Got mine off there Ebay store.
On the display it will tell you the temperature of the air comes out also.
Max is fan speed that is to fast for heat.
Never had a problem either with refurb ecoflow anything. They usually have sales going on.
Same here. Only issue I have is I wish the unit would be less noisy especially in heating mode
I have this and I already had an anker solix power bank with solar panels. Just letting everyone know the solix panels do charge the eco flow as well and it works fine with the anker products. You don’t have to buy the eco flow products to go with it
The reason why it can get more BTUs than the capacity of the battery is because it is most likely a heat pump. They can get up to 5x the efficiency of a regular resistive heater because it is just transferring the existing energy in the environment instead of adding additional energy. Edit: Probably the reason why the heater didn't work in the first part was because it wasn't vented. If it is a heat pump it will blow hot air out the front and cold air out the back creating an environment that is the same as what you started with. If you can vent the waste air to the outside you would get better results.
You draw in air from the room and vent the exhaust
Heat pumps are limited by the pumped fluids' ability to evaporate/condense. If the ambient air is below the evaporation temperature of the fluid then the heat cycle will be unable to operate and you will just be pumping liquid at low pressures which is bad for a compressor pump.
I bet the reason that the power level goes up is because as the evaporator warms up above the vaporization point of the fluid it quickly turns to gas increasing the pressure which in turn increases the pumping resistance that the unit sees.
Thumbs up for being honest I almost instantly click off a video if they are sponsored by the company. You know how many videos review eco flow products that are bought out from them vs not paid reviews is crazy! Keep up the great work!!!!
5,100 BTU for $1,200 is insane....
Ok but the fact it does all the things he mentioned is why
@@fluffehgamer4712They’re saying it’s over priced. $1,200 is not justifiable for a 5,100 BTU heater.
@fluffehgamer4712 I don't care if it can file my taxes for me. If I'm buying it for its main purpose of heating and cooling than it better be good at that.
10 times the cost of a 5,000 BTU window shaker. A 10,000 BTU inverter portable AC at Costco is $350.
Just turned the heat in mine on. 66° room air it’s blowing out 100.8° air. It’s not really cold out.
But when it was in the mid 30’s outside its was still able to put out atleast 20° delta in temp difference.
I believe ecoflow uses a not so low number for outside temp before it’s not as efficient. But it definitely worked when it got in the 30’s.
The AC part in the upper 80’s an humid as hell. Depending just like the delta on heat. The fan speed. On low it’s about a 20° degree delta. Speed two it’s like 16-17 speed 3 is like 15-16 and turbo is like 14-15° difference.
These things are made for off grid/power out and to be able to run off of battery banks aside from the attachable one. A not be a huge energy draw.
I forget the square footage they claim but these things are for tent sized areas. Not home sized rooms and big duel rear axle rv’s ect.
So it it don’t work for someone. They don’t know how to work with its limitations and maybe do different things to capitalize on its ability.
Does this review help anyone if you didnt even bother to read the directions? Who does this benefit?
For heating purpose and the unit is inside, it is recommended to use only the exhaust pipe going outside.
I love that you didn’t accept a free unit. Ecoflow literally sends free product to everyone… good job keeping it real!! They would be drooling at the mouth to send you free stuff…
I am glad someone finally tested it without the intake hose on video. Just as I thought, it heats better without it at cold temps. It also helps to insulate those hoses. That is a lot for an AC and I would not be willing to pay that for it. I would save a bunch and just get a window unit.
Why would it need cold air from outside if it is heating up the air from inside? Sounds like you are just supposed to keep the hose inside so that it can keep circulating inside air.
But if your using it in a tent or a small building that is not insulated you would get the same results as he did with the tubes out the window so iam glade he did it that way even though you would get more heat from not useing the tubes
In heat mode, the exhaust is cold air. He's sending the cold exhaust outside.
@@kalin666no it’s not
@@raycenewswanger4974If it is a proper heat pump, yes it is. That's how they work, they move energy around (heat = energy) look up heat pumps real ones. Technology connections makes a great video on how they work.
If it is however just a resistive heater it's probably trash, but Tyler isn't exactly known for his experimental rigor there is a room size and insulation ratio that will simply prevent a heat pump of this size from doing it's job. And there is a temperature outside where it will simply not be possible for it to extract latent heat from the air outside. (Just before freezing is basically when they fall off a cliff and he clearly states it is below freezing outside)
@@kalin666who told you that?? Did you just make that up?
There are plenty of portable A/C's that have intake and exhaust hoses too
Why do you have the AC tube on for heat mode. You don't need to vent out hot air if you're trying to hear.
That's not exactly how Heat pumps work.
Heat pumps have reversing valves that change the direction of refrigerant compared to a regular AC system.
Think of a Heat pump turning the inside AC coil into the outdoor coil and vice versa, depending on the heating/cooling load.
So, the exhaust tube Tyler was using was blowing cold air outside.
When it’s in heat mode, it’s reversed. The tube going to the outside would be exhausting colder air after heat has been taken out of it
Omg I heard heat pumps and had Technology Connections flashbacks😅
Same 😂
He also hated portable AC units so this is a twofer
Did you not test the AC part?
So...he didn't read the directions. NO heating system is going to be able to heat 20 degree air to 70 degrees in one go. The whole point is recirculating the air. So every pass through the machine, it is heating slightly warmer air. Air conditioners do the same thing. They RECIRCULATE the air. They don't take the 90 degree outside air and magically cool it through the freon coils in one pass.
The air that's circulating outside is separate from the inside air.
Eh...actually, most heat pumps and air conditioners can. My central system heat pump is almost 20 years old and has a 28-33F degree temperature drop across the inside coil in cooling, 35-40F rise in temperature in heating mode. I can vouch for 20F as the coldest we ever had here was 24F, but at 24F it was able to maintain 72F inside.
I would agree with you, however you said heating system… a 400,000 btu propane furnace can absolutely heat a 4000 sq foot shop to “un-livable” in no time lol
That’s not how it works. It’s physics and pressure. Air, however hot, can be compressed enough to lower the kinetic energy and slow the air molecules, cooking the air. All air conditioning systems like this operate on these fundamental principles, and which is why they have Freon and compression systems
Mine keeps making a loud squeal when turned on. Sounds like a belt slipping. Haven't been able to find any information about it, or any manuals showing how to open it up to find out what is squealing. Any ideas?
I just picked up the ac, extra battery and alternator charger for 1399. 1299 for just the unit is insane.
How is a heater suppose to work if you have two hoses outside and one pulls in air as you say that defeats the purpose of heating
I think it pulls in air through one hose; sucks the heat out of it and concentrates it to exchange with the air flow going through it in your room, and spits out that now-cooler outside air through the other outside hose. The cold outside air doesn't get into the room (principally).
With so many hoses it does get a bit confusing. :)
The theory is good - but this particular unit is hyped-up a bit from the looks of it and isn't the most efficient type and isn't rated for the outside temperature tested.
I'd love to have a 500W similarly dimensioned device with those hose attachments that was rated for those temperatures and that could run continuously, and was good for A/C up to at least 104. I'm not sure they're available anywhere. :(
My interest in this was piqued by those additional hose attachments ... for a moment I was fooled into thinking this might be a contender. :)
nb: for more extreme temperatures and such small amounts of power as 500W, I suppose seeing uninsulated hoses are a red flag lol. With large deltas between temperatures, then all that surface area presented by long hoses sitting between the big temperature difference is going to introduce some considerable efficiency loss. Those hoses effectively become something of a heat exchanger. You can buy similar hoses but with insulated cladding that will surely make some significant positive difference to the efficiency under those circumstances.
19:07 - With air source heat pumps this phenomenon is called COP degradation. This occurs when the temperature difference between outdoors and indoors decreases it becomes harder for the heat pump to extract heat from the outside air. To compensate for this the unit has to work harder, increasing the energy input to maintain the same heating capacity.
I am not implying this particular AC/heat pump is efficient or perfect. The input power increase as the heat source temperature rises is normal for any air source heat pump.
Never use outside air . Only plus to this is it’s not sticking out when stealth camping . But not sure its worth $1000 more than a inverter window unit
1) Trying to make a piece of equipment do something do what it wasn’t designed to do and then saying it doesn’t work is dumb.
2) Not following the instructions and complaining about it is also dumb.
3) comparing to a purpose designed electric space heater is an unfair comparison. If you have full time access to 110v power, buying the EcoFlow to heat (not its primary purpose) is not a wise decision.
If you are running in an of grid environment, like an RV or vanliving, and you need battery/solar powered AC, this is the perfect solution, and you get the added benefit of heating if needed, but most of those customers would know that there are much better solutions for just heating.
Bottom line is that nobody that knows anything about what the need is buying this for heat.
Heat pumps start losing efficiency at 35 degrees. Exponentially under that. Your heat pump in your garage should have resistive heating elements as well. Its probably using 1 or all of them to supplement during cold weather outside
2:33 He said hes just not buying it, but he bought it. It's sitting right there on the table.
No really 😂 I have eyes
I have a heat pump bc I am in the south in the states but it's been down to 28 a few nights the past two winters and not once did my furnace run stage 1 and 2 which is heat pump with heat strips. Heat pumps run a lot better these days than older heat pumps.
Unless a heat pump is specifically rated for winter use, it's at most going to be good for a cool spring night. As soon as the temperature outside dips below 32 F, their efficiency plummets. I have one rated for 0 F, but it starts struggling well above that. It's still enough to heat my room, but I can tell that it couldn't handle much more. It probably doesn't help that my room isn't that well insulated either.
Also yeah, a COP of 3 is pretty standard. A heat pump that draws 500W and has a COP of 3, should be putting out about 1500W of heat. It's not creating energy out of nothing, it's moving the energy from the outside air into the room.
Google "are heat pumps good in cold weather". Heats pumps are MORE efficient at heating when it's cold. That's because they require cold when transferring heat. Mostpeople get this confused because they think you can't get cold from heat and heat from cold, but that's exactly what heat pumps do. This thing isn't a heat pump, there's no external condenser unit, it's doing the condensing right where it's trying to heat/cool. It's just a bad space heater and a portable A/C.
It don’t get cold here. But it works fine in the 30’s here
The other thing about the dual hoses for A/C is, the intake will just be sucking the exhaust air... not "cool" outside air because the 2 hoses are right next to each other in the window. Maybe if you use 2 different windows it will work.
My intake host is right at outside temperature, so I don't think they cross contaminate that much.
This thing is awesome in a small space like tent or vehicle. I found that it is recycling the air sucked through the front. So at initial heating/cooling of your space if you feed it cold/hot air it will will help it get your space to your temp way faster, then you can stop feeding the air and it will do fine maintaining the space temp.
Did you watch the video? It failed to heat the room. After 1 hour it was 1 degree cooler
The measurement of BTUs is mote applicable to how much energy is transferred from the intake air to the output air. If you are taking 20deg air and heating it to 60deg that is a considerable heat input. Tyler is being overly simplistic. Not reading the manual to find out the operating parameters of the device is also dodgy in my opinion...
At least he tried it with the more logical approach of using one hose to exhaust the cold air. At least you would be able to sit in front of the unit in your camper and feel warmer... These are not really "space heaters". They are small portable units to make small spaces more comfortable.
We are thinking about buying one, but understand its limitations. The advantage for us is that ONE device will do 2 things, which is a space and cost saving. We have a slide on camper shell that goes on a tray top 4WD.
Thanks for (financially) taking one for the team once again.❤
I watch every damn video, love em all brother, you have some amazing content
Heat pumps will really only run and “work “ down to about 36 outside and this is on full size residential high efficient systems. So 20 out side is way to cold
Question...Since this is electric, why not remove the exhaust hose? Would that not also help with the heat and then put it on when you turn it to the A/C?
Bro you do understand that it's basically an air conditioner that works in Reverse right the only way for it to properly work it's for you to keep the inside air and keep recirculating that and as far as bringing it up to 70° or 68° at 500 w that's one third of what a space heater would use which is excellent not to mention you were trying to eat a room bigger than it was capable of and it still did it
Heat pumps don't create any heat. They move heat found in the environment, thermal energy already there. They expend energy moving the heat. I am curious as to the volume of the room and insulation rating. That would be useful information
The selling point on these things is really the AC power. There are many options for portable heaters. Even a small cheap propane unit does the job. Portable AC technology is not even close yet.
I think you should do a Google search. $250 - $400 portable A/C units exist, and are extremely common. I've had Honeywell for over 14 years. Same setup, one hose in, one out. Portable/small a/c units are NOT special. Heck, window a/c units are like 70 years old. No, a $1200 portable a/c is NOT a good thing. I could buy 2 portable a/c units and like 20 space heaters for that. 🤣
I think when the air is too cold, it can't use very much energy because it's not able to extract very much energy from the cold air. So it's just a product of physics since the amount of energy the unit consumes is proportionally related to the amount of energy it can extract from the intake.
You’d think for 1200 bucks they could put a decent modern display on it
Heat pumps pull heat out of the air and pump it where you want it, space heaters heat up coils with electricity to generate heat. A heat pump is not made to generate heat.
The video and some of the comments are.. interesting (aka super wrong / naïve).
The unit is an heatpump that works at an (in ideal situations) at an 3.1x efficacy; hence the 500w -> 1500w heat. It HAS TO use TWO of the pipes (on the backside) in order to properly function; One pipe pulls in fresh air from the outside, extracts some heat from that and exhausts the now colder air via the other tube (if this is not done it will not do any work!). The same happens on the front of the unit; It pulls in fresh roomtemp air from the front, runs that though the radiator that now has the added heat that was just taken from the outside and exhausts that via the top back into the room. The reverse is true when using the unit to cool; hence you always need TWO pipes on the back (when using the unit indoor).
Also the unit can only work up till 5 degrees Celsius, after that it will peddle (defrost) A LOT and it just won't be worth it to run at that moment. I use it to heat (and cool) my 10m2 office and on eco mode it only uses 287w and even less for cooling. The stated numbers (aka the 500w) is only what the unit is able to do at a maximum, it will use less if it is properly used.
Too bad real heat pumps don't actually pull air from anywhere. Where's the air ports on your fridge or freezer? (Hint, there aren't any) They are heat pumps too.
The company is scamming people who don't know what a heat pump is. You cannot exchange heat for cold, and the other way around, in the same room. Vents don't matter. This thing is a cheap $150 portable A/C. 3.4 stars on Amazon. You're naive to assume the Chinese company is being honest 😂
@@DoctorKnox’vents don’t matter’-unless they are connected to a separate space. Hence putting them through a hole in the wall.
I don't understand the 2 tube thing. So one pulls from outside, and the other exhausts hot air. Wouldn't it be better to pull in the air from inside the house/room that is going to be probably 10-20 degrees cooler than the outside air?
There wasn't a big difference in the heating there. You went from 54 up to 65 for an 11 degree change. Then with the space heater you went from 59 up to 72 which was only a 13 degree change. I know if you only look at the max temp number it seems like a big difference but you were really only testing how much change they could make in a 1 hour period and that was actually fairly close. If you wanted to look at max numbers then let them each run for several hours to see just how hot they can make the room.
I mean, do you think you’re better off going with some type of propane? Heater for the cabin or do you think I should go with something like this?
Im working on a build for a plug in heater furnace box. It has a heat exchanger built in and a filter you can change. The heater runs on a thermostat plug and the fresh air fans run 24/7. Brings in fresh air, exchanges it across the exit air and is heated before being fan forced and directed to the floor. I hope to make a prototype soon and begin testing. 👍 I also have a cool idea I’m way too busy to even look at where you take a small iron stove and make it so you can burn multiple fuels. Attachments to burn propane, diesel, oil, wood, pellets etc. all you gotta do is let it cool down and change the attached pieces.
It must be at least 40 degrees for the unit to function as a heater but they fail to mention that.
It's on page 3 of the manual and the bottom of the page when you go to buy it. It's not hidden in any way.
I thought heat pumps only really work if it's like 40°+
I thought I heard you say this is a heat pump, is that right?
If so, heat pumps heat very slowly. It takes time to get a room up to temp and the heat
you feel from the unit feels cool, but they can heat a room.
In a heat pump heated home, the amount of air flow makes a huge difference in the temperature
change.
When Mine was installed, they told me to open all the air vents, because the more air flow you
have, the better it can heat your space.
I think it is more intended for environments that dont get below like 50, thats not a comfortable temperature to sleep at for some people so they would appreciate being able to get like 72 out of 50 degree ambient, Its not really intended for environments like ours that actually get cold
Not Tyler coming out with some pure BTU-watt knowledge.
Thanks for the great video! I think from your video, it'll struggle to heat a room, however if you attach the exhaust tube inside your sleeping bag or duvet it's going to be rather warm? So really this is a personal heater / cooler?
i think you're supposed to have a small camp fire outside and use the ducts to pull in that heated air... if you have ppl that spent $1200 for this then they'll believe that line to justify that they didn't get scammed...
for me it worked 4 hours then dropped an error number and that was it. testing it in the middle of summer in a white van with somehow isolated walls, not so much windows, did jack. not very impressed but I was convinced by one of the influencers. I can give a thumb up for customer support though
This is just my opinion.
I feel how it is set up is the correct way but it is too cold outside.
This unit basically puts the outdoor and indoor unit together if you compare it to a regular heat pump that has half the unit outside and the other inside on your wall or part of your furnace. The hoses venting outside are keeping what would be the outdoor part of the unit outside. If you disconnect the intake you will just be throwing your heated air back outdoors through the exhaust and creating negative pressure. Now your unit will be pulling cooler air from under the door, around windows, etc.. and be throwing your heated air out. Myself I wouldn't disconnect the intake hose and would set it up just like in the video and like it shows in the instructions. JMO
I'm sure someone else has said it, but there ARE 2-tube "portable AC units" though they are uncommon
Do you have to have the hoses attached for the heat? Could just see if it heats the air that it’s already heating
Now that it's getting warmer can you test the ac side of this unit that's is what I am interested in I never thought it would be much of a heater in the first place that was just a waste of time on ecoflow to ad it to drive up the cost but I want to know how does it cool
Where you roughly at for it to be 20° rn? I'm in ND and haven't seen that low temp in the past few weeks
Recorded in January
Why did this go to TylerTube Too?
I think it’s meant for cooling more than heat
Tyler you need to watch technology connections talk about the refrigeration cycle!
This is main channel material
A 40deg temperature differential is amazing. HVAC engineer here lol
40F differential isn't that big of a deal. I normally run a 28F-35F split across the Inside coil on my home heat pump in cooling mode. In my car I've had 55F splits. But n th are non-standard ACs running my special sauce.
@@grayrabbit2211 Yeah but with how it was set up and the fact it's not expected to be super efficient, I think that's dang good you know.
Where does all the humidity drain?
It evaporates before it comes out. I have a portable ac/heater it doesn’t even have a hole for water to come out because I’ve used it for years and haven’t seen any water on the floor
Doesn’t every window or wall air conditioner pull air from inside the room and exhaust it outside? lol the intake is on the side that’s in the room. That can’t be the only reason portable AC’s are inefficient.
Where was it 20 degrees outside 2 days ago??
Filmed in January
Also heat pumps start losing all their efficiency at 20° most heat pumps use a back up heat strip at that temp
Please make your video possible to save to lists. I would really like to go back to this one later.
Most math I've eeeeeever seen him do 😂
Just when I was starting to think he was a bit special.
Hey mate cooling/heating capacity in aircon/refrig is measured differently. You need input capacity kW. It's a totally different calculation.
Love the channel bro
It's a heat pump, it's suppose to be outside? Why is it inside while heating. It could possibly cool inside but the way heat pumps work doesn't it need to be outside?
Its suppose to be run in a frozen bucket of water outside and only turned on during the winter full solstice. Idiot didnt read the manual before operation
RTFM.
Test 1: Temperature is out of range. Needs to be 41F to 122F outside with two hoses.
Test 2: In range, but crippled using one hose and pulling vacuum, causing cold air to creep in. The resistance heater test wasn't pulling a vacuum so it had a clear advantage.
Test 3: Yet again, out of range, but better conditions. Amazing it actually worked at all.
All of the tests were designed to make this unit fail, which is disappointing... not of the product, but of the integrity of the reviewer, who I think was smart enough to know better, as he was rattling off specs through the review.
All heatpumps are almost useless under 30°. That's why they have backup heat strips
It’s summer time, how’s that thing working?
Heat pumps are very efficient. That's why heat pump dryers plug into 120 volts.
Sometimes idek what tyler is talking about, I just be watching and learning😂
Yes primarily a AC works great