Thanks for the shout out. It was great to meet you last week. I’m looking forward to seeing more great videos from you, and possibly doing a collaborative project together.
Being a beginner, this will help me a ton! I don't have the steadiest hands to start with, so every little bit helps. You guys have helped me a immensely as I continue to learn to weld. THANKS!
Wish that I knew this 15 years ago. I've tried it,and it worked out pretty awesome, less stress on focusing and it removes the weight of the torch on the wrist and better control of the oxy-acytelne cutting process. Love it. Im Andrew.
The rest of the story; measure your torch tip to material. You need at least 1/4 inch extra above the metal for the blow effect of the cutting tip. Use a piece of key stock to space the angle iron above your work, then your jig doesn’t warp as much. And for most torches, a nut can be wedged onto the cutting tip to keep your torch vertical while cutting.
I can't get enough of this instructor, even if he was a jarhead. Nobody is perfect. Maybe not even us Army Infantry folks. Seriously, there's no better welding teacher on RUclips, and each time I learn a trick from him on this channel, gain a little extra confidence.
When learning how to do this, on the cutting table i would rest my hand with my fingers stacked on eachother. Doing this I was able to run the bottom pipe on the torch over my index finger and it help maintain distanced and speed much better. This easy trick got me the best grade in the class over everyone holding the torch from only the back and having the tip floating around. No other supplies needed other than your torch, welding gloves, protective glasses and your cutting material
This is an excellent tip. However I found that the mill scale and/or surface roughness on the edge of the angle tends to catch on the hose clamp or the tip nut. I draw-filed the edge of the angle about 5 strokes and this resulted in much smoother torch travel and a cut comparable to a track torch.
THANKS! As is most often true, Simple solutions like this are often the best solutions. This really saves time and money, and can even be used for curved cuts when using a rolled or gently bent piece of flat bar as the standoff guide. Much appreciated!
I was working for a contractor, I was flame cutting some 1/4" steel, using this same method when he walks in and sees me, he says, " what aren't you good enough to do it free hand", I said yeah but it faster this way, he says "Sure", then walks away. About 4 day later I come in early, and whose flame cutting with a guide, I laughed and said, "u ain't no good huh", ah ha ha! 😆😆😆😆😆
Did you ask him on your last day there, or your first day as a broom driver? Hopefully he was a good enough guy to laugh, and suggest that you try “his” new method. That was a good comeback for him.
His first example of a beginners cut was better than me actually trying my hardest lol and probably better than most youtube know it alls...keep up good work you got pro skills sir!~
I learned to use the torch to remove the mill scale and a quick flick with the hand held wire brush. This helps prevent your torch burning. Your tip is good for a shop, however, not so much on a construction site, let alone heavy industrial site. I draw a line with my soapstone then find a comfortable position for one hand resting on the piece (to hold the tip at the proper height) my other hand operates the trigger. By moving both hands smoothly, in unison, i get a smooth cut.
That is a great trick! I have used the trick alot with our the hose clamp but wanna give ot a try. One disclaimer I had found I that when your making long cuts the length of angle will get hot and move out of straight when your half way through. A couple tacks mid section helps with that or take the time to make a chalk or scribe line first so you can see how straight your going.
A good tip. Back in the 60 s I s aw a little roller jig that a guy had that clamped to a torch there were two little wheels that rolled smooth and kept the right gap and angle. You could follow a curve perfect you just needed to keep keep a good speed.
My straight cuts were okay, but my circle cuts were really bad. I have to retake the class because all the welding labs got shut down halfway through the semester
Good stuff I've been doing this for a couple of years I usually use washers on the end of the tip, it also helps me cut circles, I enjoy your channel thanks for sharing your advice and techniques.
I went a step further and welded my angle iron to a piece of C-channel, to get the edge of the angle iron up off the work piece, thereby preventing the torch from eroding the corner of the angle during the cut.
Figured out that some 60 years ago. Still a good idea. Always use a guide if possible when cutting anything. This principal also applies to Skill saws and plywood.
Awesome tip, going to try this as soon as possible!! Have to cut 3/8 hardox wear plate, this will work perfect for a gatherer ram on a Shear press. Thanks!!
I've used a straight edge before, but never a guide to keep my height. When I do this next time and use this method I too will have a CNC machine (Cut Neat & Clean) Great idea!! Thanks
If you use the same piece of angle every time you cut with the torch. Sooner or later it won't be straight anymore and it will warp from all the heat when its clamped down to the plate. Especially if your doing a lot of cuts in one sitting. Thats why I use 5/8 aluminum for my guide.
Important also is our cutting tip number we use according to thickness of material we cut...... Adjust both the oxygen and acetylene supply pressure in control valve at cutting outfit... But best we have an roller attachment to hold our cutting outfit at fix gap from cutting tip and material to be cut...
3/4 X 1 1/2 flatbar with a handle is what I've been using for the past 30 odd years...no hose clamp...freehand....same results...it just takes practice.
I would agree that this method is good for some short cuts but in longer distances your angle will absorb so much heat that it will start to bend so if you stick to your angle you will get clean arch cut.
now you tell me. just finished cutting a bunch of 1/4 inch. I used the angle guide but had a hard time with cutting distance. the hose clamp would have saved me a lot of grinding. I use that torch about once a year, hope I can remember the hose clamp that long.
Oxy cutting is something I learnt in 2 minutes flat, my livelihood depended on it, I liked your hack, I use the angle iron hack all the time if I dont have my wheels close by, just one first though, your cut is very horizonal where as to cut a really nice cut the hand piece needs to be slightly angled so you are cutting hot metal.
I kept a high nut drilled out to the tip size for a shoulder holding the height. A piece of angle or bar will warp from the heat of the cut making the cut line curved. Tack key stock or small square pieces at intervals across the bottom of the angle or bar to lift it up 1/4"-3/8" from the plate surface allowing the heat to pass under the guide.
Nice idea with the hose clamp but too much heat is getting to the angle iron causing the vertical flange to expand slightly and resulting in a curved cut. Maybe some 1/4"-1/2" stand offs between the horizontal flange and work would lessen the affect.
Use of the angle iron is good, if you are in a shop or fab area. In the field, one doesn't always have that option or the time to set it up. To stop the mill scale issue, I was taught to run the lit torch over the burn area to pop off the mill scale. Also I found it better to learn how to hold my torch head in the tip of my one hand. My other hand holds the torch, at a slight angle, in the direction of the burn. This helps to pre heat the metal, as I burn, and I can see the line I drew. Also, if you pull the torch towards you, on a long cut, your body will block the cut. Cutting side to side you have more freedom of movement.
There’s one addition to your idea that’ll help from not accidentally slipping off of the angle iron. That is to cut a 3/8” long piece of 3/4” x 3/4” x 1/8” angle iron, and clamp that under your hose clamp to make your sliding ledge wider and more true. Just trying to help. Good video.
Used to use the torch head nut as a resting peice on some angle iron that we had. Of course that required having angle iron at the right height. Not sure why I never thought of this!
Attach some magnets to the angle then there is no need to clamp it to the work. Perhaps drill holes the same size as some round magnets ans epoxy them into the holes flush on the bottom edge. You'll have yourself a great straight edge cutting guide.
I do that but also use a hose clamp with a little packer at the end of the tip so it slides against the face of the angle so the end doesn’t wobble off the line.
The tungsten grind angle video he was massively sarcastic about the skills of the cameraman. The pled videos about abrasives he was throwing shade on each of them.
I've been doing this about 20 years on my plasma torch. I wanted to buy a (1) drag cone. $15 dollars ... but I would have to buy a box of 10. So I hose clamped a tab on the torch and ran it down a piece of angle. I have drag tips for my oxi-torch but haven't seen any replacements in several years.
Nice. Simple but effective. Could you show how to cut and weld aluminium checker plate into toolboxes etc that would be great to see, but could you show using MMAW, GMAW and TGAW. It would be cool to see all three types of welding processes on the same material.
Another trick that was taught to me when I started is to draw two lines, one for cutting and one for following, next grab a used up punch and drag it across the second line. After a while you should be able to cut straight and know how high to hold the torch.
To get separation from the vertical part of the angle iron, you can clamp or tack another angle iron and end up with a raised horizontal edge guide. If the vertical part is too close it will affect your cut.
What should be shut off after cutting with torch, oxygen or acetylene/gas? I tend to shut off acetylene first then oxygen to snuff out any remaining gases. I don't know if there's a right or wrong way...tell me what you know. Thanks.
@@derekbryant6137 is that taking a piece of steel clamping on top of another piece of metal and using the molten steel to blow through the other piece? I have heard of that before but I have never seen it done
@@henryholliday1 yes that is the correct thing I am talking about my great-grandfather used to do it it's not for critical work for sure because you're going to blow carbon into your stainless however for dismantling something it works great
J J You old guys are so funny. When you were young, you knew so little and made so many mistakes and the generation before you thought how lazy and stupid you were. After 30 years, you learn a few things and you think the generation behind you is too stupid and lazy to ever learn what took you thirty years to learn. You have become your father.
your angle iron should be up off the plate so air can be drawn in on that side of the tip, some 3/16" round stock would work, your tip should have a slight angle in the direction of the cut, push not drag.
Distance the most important thing to clean cut. Next is the pressure and the preheated flame . clean tip set right on the torch.I cut beams and plates all shapes allday.
I'm 55 & just got a cutting torch and an old Lincon buzz box from an old friend .I don't know how to set the settings on a torch. can you help me, please!
I rook welding classes and they used acetylene gas... When I got my first job they used mapp gas... I couldn't cut steel worth a butter knife... I did get better after a while... but I hated how it burned... (it was cheaper, I guess)
The best thing I have ever seen is a plasma torch with a drag tip drug against an angle iron for carbon or stainless, it is 5 times faster than ox-acet and. 5 times cleaner .
So I came in to the shipyard this week with a hose clamp feelin' like a dog with a new bone. Now I must say that I generally work a lot faster than most and hose clamp is literally cheating. I sliced flanges off some 22 weight Tbars literally twice as fast and less grinding than the journeyman assigned to the same task. Fuckin' A! What a stupidly awesome trick! Thanks guys.
If you use a larger angle iron you can just rest the torch nut that holds the cutting tip In on the edge. 40mm angle use to be perfect for the nozzles I had
I have a Smith torch with a circle cutting tip nut on it, and it rides perfectly on either 1" or 1.5" angle....my other Smith torch used really long tips, so the angle has to be huge....I'm def gonna use this hose clamp tip
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Thanks for the shout out. It was great to meet you last week. I’m looking forward to seeing more great videos from you, and possibly doing a collaborative project together.
You need to preheat the work piece for best cut
Great meeting you too Dale. We'll definitely get that collab in the works
⁰
Being a beginner, this will help me a ton! I don't have the steadiest hands to start with, so every little bit helps. You guys have helped me a immensely as I continue to learn to weld. THANKS!
Great channel!!
You could also buy an wheel guide
Wish that I knew this 15 years ago. I've tried it,and it worked out pretty awesome, less stress on focusing and it removes the weight of the torch on the wrist and better control of the oxy-acytelne cutting process. Love it. Im Andrew.
The rest of the story; measure your torch tip to material. You need at least 1/4 inch extra above the metal for the blow effect of the cutting tip. Use a piece of key stock to space the angle iron above your work, then your jig doesn’t warp as much. And for most torches, a nut can be wedged onto the cutting tip to keep your torch vertical while cutting.
I can't get enough of this instructor, even if he was a jarhead. Nobody is perfect. Maybe not even us Army Infantry folks. Seriously, there's no better welding teacher on RUclips, and each time I learn a trick from him on this channel, gain a little extra confidence.
When learning how to do this, on the cutting table i would rest my hand with my fingers stacked on eachother. Doing this I was able to run the bottom pipe on the torch over my index finger and it help maintain distanced and speed much better. This easy trick got me the best grade in the class over everyone holding the torch from only the back and having the tip floating around. No other supplies needed other than your torch, welding gloves, protective glasses and your cutting material
This is an excellent tip. However I found that the mill scale and/or surface roughness on the edge of the angle tends to catch on the hose clamp or the tip nut. I draw-filed the edge of the angle about 5 strokes and this resulted in much smoother torch travel and a cut comparable to a track torch.
THANKS! As is most often true, Simple solutions like this are often the best solutions. This really saves time and money, and can even be used for curved cuts when using a rolled or gently bent piece of flat bar as the standoff guide. Much appreciated!
I was working for a contractor, I was flame cutting some 1/4" steel, using this same method when he walks in and sees me, he says, " what aren't you good enough to do it free hand", I said yeah but it faster this way, he says "Sure", then walks away. About 4 day later I come in early, and whose flame cutting with a guide, I laughed and said, "u ain't no good huh", ah ha ha! 😆😆😆😆😆
Yeah...either become a great burner,,or become a full time grinder...lols
Did you ask him on your last day there, or your first day as a broom driver? Hopefully he was a good enough guy to laugh, and suggest that you try “his” new method. That was a good comeback for him.
Your my HERO!!!
I don't think it's faster. You have to spend more time clamping the angle on.
@@victormercado9726 grind and correction time saved; it's faster.
His first example of a beginners cut was better than me actually trying my hardest lol and probably better than most youtube know it alls...keep up good work you got pro skills sir!~
I learned to use the torch to remove the mill scale and a quick flick with the hand held wire brush. This helps prevent your torch burning.
Your tip is good for a shop, however, not so much on a construction site, let alone heavy industrial site. I draw a line with my soapstone then find a comfortable position for one hand resting on the piece (to hold the tip at the proper height) my other hand operates the trigger. By moving both hands smoothly, in unison, i get a smooth cut.
Great tip my brother!👍 I used it yesterday and man, I tell you what it makes a big difference on the cut and it's easy on the arm for long endure
Good tip,I used to use a larger piece of angle and sit the nut on top of it ,it was heavy enough to not need clamping down.
That is a great trick! I have used the trick alot with our the hose clamp but wanna give ot a try. One disclaimer I had found I that when your making long cuts the length of angle will get hot and move out of straight when your half way through. A couple tacks mid section helps with that or take the time to make a chalk or scribe line first so you can see how straight your going.
Even when you do a bad job, you are still doing a good job. I'm having to work on a lot of it to keep it clean. Not as easy as you think.
A good tip.
Back in the 60 s I s
aw a little roller jig that a guy had that clamped to a torch there were two little wheels that rolled smooth and kept the right gap and angle. You could follow a curve perfect you just needed to keep keep a good speed.
Lol when his demonstration of a beginner cut is 1000x better than my cut I did today in class 😂😂
I always say it looks like a one tooth beaver knawed it off.
My straight cuts were okay, but my circle cuts were really bad.
I have to retake the class because all the welding labs got shut down halfway through the semester
@@morgan98801 I am pretty good at cutting farts.
Same
Good stuff I've been doing this for a couple of years I usually use washers on the end of the tip, it also helps me cut circles, I enjoy your channel thanks for sharing your advice and techniques.
I went a step further and welded my angle iron to a piece of C-channel, to get the edge of the angle iron up off the work piece, thereby preventing the torch from eroding the corner of the angle during the cut.
Figured out that some 60 years ago. Still a good idea. Always use a guide if possible when cutting anything. This principal also applies to Skill saws and plywood.
Awesome tip, going to try this as soon as possible!! Have to cut 3/8 hardox wear plate, this will work perfect for a gatherer ram on a Shear press. Thanks!!
I've used a straight edge before, but never a guide to keep my height. When I do this next time and use this method I too will have a CNC machine (Cut Neat & Clean) Great idea!! Thanks
If you use the same piece of angle every time you cut with the torch. Sooner or later it won't be straight anymore and it will warp from all the heat when its clamped down to the plate. Especially if your doing a lot of cuts in one sitting. Thats why I use 5/8 aluminum for my guide.
Important also is our cutting tip number we use according to thickness of material we cut......
Adjust both the oxygen and acetylene supply pressure in control valve at cutting outfit... But best we have an roller attachment to hold our cutting outfit at fix gap from cutting tip and material to be cut...
Also helps to run your soap stone along the top of that angle for a smoother slide
Insane hack: Put a ruler next to your pen to draw straight lines!! more at 11!
3/4 X 1 1/2 flatbar with a handle is what I've been using for the past 30 odd years...no hose clamp...freehand....same results...it just takes practice.
I would agree that this method is good for some short cuts but in longer distances your angle will absorb so much heat that it will start to bend so if you stick to your angle you will get clean arch cut.
Very nice simple solution especially for us novice or infrequent welders. Thank
now you tell me. just finished cutting a bunch of 1/4 inch. I used the angle guide but had a hard time with cutting distance. the hose clamp would have saved me a lot of grinding. I use that torch about once a year, hope I can remember the hose clamp that long.
Oxy cutting is something I learnt in 2 minutes flat, my livelihood depended on it, I liked your hack, I use the angle iron hack all the time if I dont have my wheels close by, just one first though, your cut is very horizonal where as to cut a really nice cut the hand piece needs to be slightly angled so you are cutting hot metal.
A piece of aluminum works great as a guide for plasma cutting. The weather strip trim they sell at Lowe's is the perfect thickness for mine.
I kept a high nut drilled out to the tip size for a shoulder holding the height.
A piece of angle or bar will warp from the heat of the cut making the cut line curved. Tack key stock or small square pieces at intervals across the bottom of the angle or bar to lift it up 1/4"-3/8" from the plate surface allowing the heat to pass under the guide.
Pretty disappointed you didnt show how your cut looked after using the hack. I demand a new video sir
The line didn't look very straight
Are you in any position to make demands?
@@heavymetalweld805 Did you hurt your feelings?
@@kariurhola8571 why so petty 🤣💀
That’s cus the first run was a better looker ;)
That sir was the best tip and instructions for a torch I will now use it. Anything for plasma thank you
Nice idea with the hose clamp but too much heat is getting to the angle iron causing the vertical flange to expand slightly and resulting in a curved cut. Maybe some 1/4"-1/2" stand offs between the horizontal flange and work would lessen the affect.
Use of the angle iron is good, if you are in a shop or fab area. In the field, one doesn't always have that option or the time to set it up.
To stop the mill scale issue, I was taught to run the lit torch over the burn area to pop off the mill scale. Also I found it better to learn how to hold my torch head in the tip of my one hand. My other hand holds the torch, at a slight angle, in the direction of the burn. This helps to pre heat the metal, as I burn, and I can see the line I drew. Also, if you pull the torch towards you, on a long cut, your body will block the cut. Cutting side to side you have more freedom of movement.
I use angle when cutting but this is I never thought about thanks for the tip got to cut cross members and will give this a try thumbs up.
Same here with angle will be using hose clamp thanks for the tip....
There’s one addition to your idea that’ll help from not accidentally slipping off of the angle iron.
That is to cut a 3/8” long piece of 3/4” x 3/4” x 1/8” angle iron, and clamp that under your hose clamp to make your sliding ledge wider and more true. Just trying to help. Good video.
Used to use the torch head nut as a resting peice on some angle iron that we had. Of course that required having angle iron at the right height. Not sure why I never thought of this!
Great idea. Only problem is it's the Bernoulli effect that pulls a vacuum up. Ventury pulls into a stream and continues with it.
Attach some magnets to the angle then there is no need to clamp it to the work.
Perhaps drill holes the same size as some round magnets ans epoxy them into the holes flush on the bottom edge. You'll have yourself a great straight edge cutting guide.
I do that but also use a hose clamp with a little packer at the end of the tip so it slides against the face of the angle so the end doesn’t wobble off the line.
Good tip. Where were you when I used OXY /ACC all the time . Now I do 90% of my cutting with Plasma
Good tip with the hose clamp and angle steel clamped as a guide, thanks.
That is a clever idea. Wish we could've seen the end result with the hose clamp trick
Yeah, camera guy screwed the pooch on that one.
@@Welddotcom that excuse is started to get worn out. Every other video y'all blaming dude. Have some integrity.
@@rikkitiki1666 pretty sure this is the first time.
@@Welddotcom with that particular instructor. Bob's videos bash the cameraman every other video.
The tungsten grind angle video he was massively sarcastic about the skills of the cameraman. The pled videos about abrasives he was throwing shade on each of them.
I've been doing this about 20 years on my plasma torch. I wanted to buy a (1) drag cone. $15 dollars ... but I would have to buy a box of 10. So I hose clamped a tab on the torch and ran it down a piece of angle. I have drag tips for my oxi-torch but haven't seen any replacements in several years.
Nice. Simple but effective.
Could you show how to cut and weld aluminium checker plate into toolboxes etc that would be great to see, but could you show using MMAW, GMAW and TGAW. It would be cool to see all three types of welding processes on the same material.
thanks for the tip it will help a lot easier for me to cut metals. more power.
I already learned this technique from my welding instructor, tho nice to see the knowledge being spread
nice video . i made a stand off that slides over the tip its off set like a plasma cutter works good
For smooth cuts hand placement prior to cuttingl helps out a ton too. You should show guys how to "wash" and pop ollets in pipe
I have found that lock collars work great as well but not everybody has those laying around everyone has a hose clamp great tip
Thanks for great videos u can be how long doing fabrication you can still learn thank you
Another trick that was taught to me when I started is to draw two lines, one for cutting and one for following, next grab a used up punch and drag it across the second line. After a while you should be able to cut straight and know how high to hold the torch.
Straighter, cleaner, and prolongs the tip life! I call that a win-win-win! Now all I need is a torch or plasma cutter!
Build a sandbox in the backyard. Anything is possible with imagination
Thank you for this tip, I needed it, my cutting is bad.
Practice practice 👌
To get separation from the vertical part of the angle iron, you can clamp or tack another angle iron and end up with a raised horizontal edge guide. If the vertical part is too close it will affect your cut.
What should be shut off after cutting with torch, oxygen or acetylene/gas? I tend to shut off acetylene first then oxygen to snuff out any remaining gases. I don't know if there's a right or wrong way...tell me what you know. Thanks.
You can use angle to guide bevels also
Good advice JB. Very nice!
Bob Moffatt did you teach him how NOT to fry that Viking beard? Ha ha.
Thanks Brother, see you at FabTech next week 🤘🔥
Bob....where u at ????? .......y u ain't came to Tx again ?
This works excellent... ..... For noobs... the cut should sound kinda like a never ending fart
Miss ya bob 😭
I love watching new hires try to cut through stainless with a torch.. It never gets old.
If they knew about the waster plate trick you can do it but not too many people know about that because that's old old school
@@derekbryant6137 is that taking a piece of steel clamping on top of another piece of metal and using the molten steel to blow through the other piece? I have heard of that before but I have never seen it done
@@henryholliday1 yes that is the correct thing I am talking about my great-grandfather used to do it it's not for critical work for sure because you're going to blow carbon into your stainless however for dismantling something it works great
@@DieselDog1982 Because it's a lesson they learn that they'll never forget. Plus, it makes me laugh.
J J
You old guys are so funny. When you were young, you knew so little and made so many mistakes and the generation before you thought how lazy and stupid you were. After 30 years, you learn a few things and you think the generation behind you is too stupid and lazy to ever learn what took you thirty years to learn. You have become your father.
your angle iron should be up off the plate so air can be drawn in on that side of the tip, some 3/16" round stock would work, your tip should have a slight angle in the direction of the cut, push not drag.
Distance the most important thing to clean cut. Next is the pressure and the preheated flame . clean tip set right on the torch.I cut beams and plates all shapes allday.
I will use oxy's wheels a bit of angle if I need to cut long. Still like your method keep up the good work.
😎👍
Nice! Would liked to have known this 50 years ago.
Next you'll be wanting to use the radiograph track torch . Best tool for cutting plate.
I learn new things every video. Awesome!
thanks you i don't think before
I'm 55 & just got a cutting torch and an old Lincon buzz box from an old friend .I don't know how to set the settings on a torch. can you help me, please!
This Old Tony made a nice one
find his video on RUclips
Very nice tip sir! Thanks for sharing it
Mester,ügyes vagy.Ha kocsival tennéd ugyanezt,még szebb lenne az amúgy is szép vágásod.Köszönöm
Really good video just wish you would have shown what the cuts looked like side by side
Thanks for this. Does the set off distance you shared apply as well when using a plasma cutter?
Thanks.
I'm a long time fan of Dale's channel.
Cool tip cheap and easy thanks
I rook welding classes and they used acetylene gas... When I got my first job they used mapp gas... I couldn't cut steel worth a butter knife... I did get better after a while... but I hated how it burned... (it was cheaper, I guess)
The best thing I have ever seen is a plasma torch with a drag tip drug against an angle iron for carbon or stainless, it is 5 times faster than ox-acet and. 5 times cleaner .
So I came in to the shipyard this week with a hose clamp feelin' like a dog with a new bone. Now I must say that I generally work a lot faster than most and hose clamp is literally cheating. I sliced flanges off some 22 weight Tbars literally twice as fast and less grinding than the journeyman assigned to the same task. Fuckin' A! What a stupidly awesome trick! Thanks guys.
i really like the hose clamp, but i do like an air gape under my straight edge.
What psi do you have the gases set at and what size torch is that exactly ? Those cuts came out nice and clean
Thanks you so much man it's helpful ❤️
Thank you I will cut efficiently now.
Also if you angle the torch back in the cut direction slightly it pre- heats the work.
Awesome technique bro
My teacher just got us to put the torch on the metal but tilt it forward at a 30-45° angle and start pulling it towards you. And I got a perfect cut
Hey I know this is old but I’m
Wondering if you could go over how to use the torch to take the backing plate off a cwb test
Thanks for sharing the wisdom.
Great tip a real game changer
Thanks , I will use your tip for my next cut.
"We'll just get rid of that" quickly because it cut JUST FINE!!!
Freehand is way smoother. Plus if you rely on the angle you are going to struggle to cut out of position like flanges or the web of a UB.
Excellent! Thank you Brother!
Nice trick. You need to make sure the angle is perfectly smooth with no nicks in it or your torch will get caught and cause a defect in the cut.
Thanks for this man, so simple but never thought of it. I got a life hack to trade: Dont fry chicken in the nude. Your welcome!!
It’s why I prefer oxy/propane for just cutting. The tip is held even further away and no impurities to worry about.
If you use a larger angle iron you can just rest the torch nut that holds the cutting tip In on the edge. 40mm angle use to be perfect for the nozzles I had
Although I see your nut has a slight radius on it so that would be difficult.
I have a Smith torch with a circle cutting tip nut on it, and it rides perfectly on either 1" or 1.5" angle....my other Smith torch used really long tips, so the angle has to be huge....I'm def gonna use this hose clamp tip
Gracias a está página e aprendido arto muchas gracias.los felicito desde chile...
thank You very much. I learned a lot
When you gotta make straight long cuts the morning after the Superbowl...lol
Juan Castillo lol. Just weld that day.