[MTB maintenance] Fox Float Shocks Oil Leak Fix - Part2 (Full rebuild for home mechanics)
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- Опубликовано: 2 июл 2020
- How to fix oil leak from around the rebound dial.
This fix is applicable to Fox Float RPL/RP2/RP3/RP23.
[Correction]
The word "seams" used in caption should read "shims". I thank Scot for pointing out this typo. 
Хобби
![[MTB maintenance] Fox Float Shocks Oil Leak Fix - Part1 (Full rebuild for home mechanics)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/3y3QQCyQWwc/mqdefault.jpg)
Very very comprehensive and professional. You are not only a great enthusiast but take pride in your own servicing plus taking trouble to record and show your work. People like you give those who are interested but afraid to try courage to attempt their own repairs. Thanks a lot.. Much appreciated
Thank you so much for your encouraging comment!
Very comprehensive shock service! Great work!
Thank you for watching!
first 30 seconds showed me everything i wanted to know - it worked - thanks!
OMG😲
Hi ! thanks for the clear process. Just to let you know I have the same RP2 and the smallest O-ring missing too!... It looks like a real slow programmed failure. The only thing that was there is only grease. I've had the bike for 14 years and its my first big maintenance. Agree most orings will last another couple of years and if it wasn't of the Oring missing (empty oil this summer) I would have never looked in there. Good brand but at this level of quality and price, it's a shame not to be flawless
.
Hi, that "grease" may be the melted residue of the original o-ring. The original o-ring of older Float models is made of semitransparent urethane. Normal grease should have been rinsed out by damping oil, I think. Well, whatever, I fully understand your frustration :)
Newer Float models seem to have a new type of o-ring and damping oil, so they seem to have learned the lesson at least. They also have made maintenance procedure of their shocks public on the net, so they are now much more user-friendly than 15 years ago.
Thanks for watching, and have a nice ride!
Thanks for the great video my wifes rp23 leaked all the oil out from the damper dial when i took it apart it was the same oring that had melted all good now!
Hi, thank you for your encouraging feedback! Have a nice ride together with your lady!
No axle vise? Use a cordless drill chuck. Worked for me and didn't make any scratches on the piston. Great video series by the way, and thank you!
Wow, you did it? I wouldn't dare to try. But it is an inspiring improvisation, I think.
Thank you for sharing the nice tip!
Thanks for the feedback, yes I have 2013 model that is 7.500x2.000 is 5.86 cm? Great video keep up the good work! Thanks and Happy New Year.
Hi, 5.86~5.87cm seems to be the correct depth, yes. You can safely take 5.9cm.
Thanks, you too, Hulio!
Hi, you did an amazing video, thank you very much for your time and patience and the will to help the mtb community! You gave me the inspiration to rebuild my 2011 fox rp23 7.875 x 2.25.
Although, I couldn't unscrew the rebound stem without the axle vise tool and I didn't change the small o-ring inside.
The problem is that my pro pedal moves absolutely freely now. Before the rebuild it was loose, but still there was a tiny click and I have no idea what I did wrong. One thing I noticed is that the rebound stem looked more pronounced than before I took it off (with the small bearing ball on the tip in place) like 7-8mm above the edge if the golden rod. I didn't have any difficulty to mount and screw all the spacers though. Some of the spacers vary a bit too from your model (like the one with the blue seal and the last strange shape one) and I have also the 3 tiny spacers on the spring. I wait for the axle vise tool to be delivered and I'll try to redo the operation. If you have an idea what could cause the problem with the pro pedal free movement, I will be very happy for some help! Thanks!
Hi, I am afraid that it is very hard to say what is causing the situation that you mention without seeing your shock with my own eyes.
One thing I really don't get it is that your say "I couldn't unscrew the rebound stem" but further down you also say "the rebound stem looked more pronounced than before I took it off". How could you take it off despite that you couldn't unscrew it? And do you mean "rebound metering rod" when you say "rebound stem"?
Anyway, I recommend reviewing each step you have done while reassembling the shock very carefully once again. I am always open to your questions :)
@@MindDesignFactory Hi, Thanks for the reply! I wanted to say that I could take off the compression rod out of the metering rod without unscrewing the shaft and when I placed back the compression rod (the one with the small bearing ball on the tip) , it looked more pronounced than before, like 5-6 mm out of the edge. I am afraid that while trying to heat the shaft to break the locktite ( which I didn't manage to unscrew) may be I burnt the o-ring in the metering rod or just the compression rod wasn't correctly placed.
Hi, ok now I see in what situation you are stuck now. First, it is unlikely that you have burnt the o-ring inside the metering rod unless you heated it for a excessively long time, like 15 or more seconds. (If your RP23 is ten or more years oid and shows a sign of oil leak at the rebound dial, then the tiny o-ring would be partly dissolved or melted anyway by the aggressive damping oil that Fox used in old Float shocks). dSecondly, it is also unlikely that the compression rod could be incorrectly placed, because you did not remove the metering rod, so nothing has changed in regard to the space that the compression rod enters into. There should be nothing to prevent it from being placed back in place.
Maybe the compression rod simply can't go through the o-ring because it normally fits onto the rod rather tightly to prevent oil leak. Have you tried to push the rod further in by a bit of force? Or maybe you can check if you can insert a thin piano wire or similar into the metering rod deeply enough. The o-ring might be stuck inside the metering rod somehow.
@@MindDesignFactory Hi again, what you are suggesting sounds very logic, because the compression rod falls off by its own if turned upside down, so either I didn't push enough, either I didn't apply enough pressure to pass through the old o-ring. Thanks a lot for your time, it's really helpful! I'll give an update once I receive the axle vice and re-open the shock. Take care!
😉
im glad i found your video, planning on a full rebuild on my RP23 rebound is way too fast and the shock is bouncy on trail. thnks for the upload.
Hi, I would be more than happy if my video would be of help in a way or the other:) Thanks for watching!
Blue Dot... means "our blue planet in the universe"?
@@MindDesignFactory yes, my son suggested Blue Dot after watching a documentary about Carl Sagan. Thanks again
Aha, when your son become old enough, he might be able to see our planet as "blue dot" far from Mars on vacation:)
Thank you!
Gran video de mucha utilidad y justo lo que estaba buscando algo claro con gran calidad de imagen y comentarios justos y claros, ahora a buscar la mostaza para sujetar el pistón. Saludos desde España
¡Hola, gracias por mirar!
¿"Mostaza" significa "abrazadera" o "tornillo de banco" en inglés?
Quería decir mordaza, lo que pones en el tornillo de banco BIKE HAND para sujetar el pistón. del amortiguador
Mostaza= mustard
Mostaza=горчица
Perdón por el error
Ajá, "mordaza" ya veo. Gracias por su respuesta.
Congratulations, excellent your video. Thanks for sharing knowledge.
Thanks for watching!
Sir where can i bought that thing conected to the handpump?
Hi, you can purchase the charging needle at eBay. Search for "nitrogen needle kit" at eBay then you will find several types of needles.
Thanks for watching!
Hello, (my english is not very good, but i hope you understand)i tried for my firs time to do the service myself, but in the proces i destroyed the spring where you put in with the ball at the top of the eyelet an screw it with a small ball, i managed to put it in but i had to cut it for it to go inside, an after i done that i tried the rebound but i dont hear any clicks, and i was wandering if it will begin to hear once assambly the hole shock or i did something wrong, another thing i want to mention is that my rebound knob has inside a bigger ball which in the video i diidnt saw, it has to do that is a differnt shock or its not suppose to be there, my shock is a fox float rp23 kashima coat 2012, i want to say another thing, when i was unscwruwing the bolt where is the nitrogen it came out black oil im not complettly sure it was oil but i know that it was black, is this thing normal or the seal must be changed i changed it yesterday but maybe i scrath it or something i dont know, could you responde me to every question? thansk in advance
I forget to ask if i put the ifp chamber at the wrong height what will happen? i know if you put it to high you will cant fully compres the shock, but if you put it too low, what is gonna do?
Hello, excellent videos, very detailed, I have a Fox Float rp2 suspension. What is the part number of the spare parts kit and do you know where I can get them online? Thank you
Hi, I can get most parts locally and not use a "parts kit" to rebuild my shocks. If you are seeking for the parts to rebuild your RP2, try search for "Fox RP2 Rebuild Kit" or "Fox 803-00-381" at eBay. 803-00-381 is the part number of Fox's genuine RP23 Boost Valve Rebuild Kit. It includes everything you need to rebuild your RP2, too.
Thanks for watching 😊
Just put it bacck today and it's better than the first ride (with all orings)!
Great! Now one more life of an old Float shock has been revived :)
Nice job!
Are you Mr a surgeon or something? Impressive and useful thank you!
Thanks for watching!
Hello. Love the video I do have a question. I screwed up and while rebuilding my float shock, my rather large clumsy dog, ran around the corner and knocked my table over, which in turn knocked everything off the table. So my shim stack went everywhere. I did take a video of the boostvalve area all together. It was still all together when it fell over. So I don’t have any idea of the order they go. I’ve tried fox and other places, and either they didn’t know, fox for ex. Or just would not tell me. I’ve looked all over the web for images specific to my shock tune. But have not been able to find anything. Also, my local bike shops I’ve called don’t even mess with rebuilding shocks. You seem very knowledgeable and was wondering if you know where I could look to find the order of the shims.
The shock is a fox float RP23 boostvalve with rebound XL. velocity L and boostvalve 150. Thx you.
I think I need to replace the tiny O ring thats melted too..My floa rp23 leaks air from behind the rebound knob.. Can I just take apart the topsection without having to empty the nitrogen chamber at the bottom ?I think my seals are fine except that little O ring...
Unfortunately, there is no way to replace that O-ring without releasing the nitrogen pressure and affecting the performance adversely. I mean that you are actually able to replace the O-ring if you release the nitrogen pressure completely and remove only the eyelet part. But this will not repair your shock but ruin its performance. Hope this helps.
@@MindDesignFactory Yeah thanks.. I need to find now a shock pump capable of 400psi and a schrader valve to fit the nitrogen port.. I dont think I want to start messing with needles and rubber ;]
The best video I've found on this topic. Thank you very much. I have a FOX Float Triad from a Specialized Stumpjumper. Can I do a big service it with the service kit 803-00-381? Or is there another one?
Hi, I've never serviced a Triad, but I think that you can fully rebuild your Triad using the rebuild kit #803-00-381. There are third-party rebuild kits available at eBay, for example, but many of those don't include the IFP pellet, the Delrin ball and the piston glide ring. Anyway, I recommend searching for "Fox Float Triad rebuild" and gathering as much information as possible before setting about the actual rebuild work.
Thanks for watching"
@@MindDesignFactory Thank you for the quick reply👍, I will try the recommended kit.
Good luck with your shock rebuild 😉
26:20
Applying loctite on threads of rebound metering rod.. Still don't understand the reason.. I don't think we should do it there, I mean - there's no rotational force like, for example, pedal spindle in crank (and still we don't apply loctite on pedal spindle)... So...
To tell you what, I though just the same way as you do before my first rear shock fix ages ago. There "should not" be any rotational force there. But I have learned that the rod doesn't only get the vertical force by piston movement but some rotational force as well. I can't explain how, but it might be due to the microscopically uneven seal surface or the damping oil turbulence when it runs through the rod's orifices. There IS some rotational force. So the loctite is sort of "safe guard". It might be safe even without loctite, I think, if you thread the rod tight enough.
Thank you for your comment!
Hi, First of all I have to congratulate you an you fantastic 2 part Fox Float RP rebuild, great job! I have a question relating to the approx volume of 7W oil you used? I'm guessing around 100ml?
The volume of oil is only about 20ml or so. The RP23 in this video is of the size 5.5 x 1.0, and so the bigger model requires more.
Thanks for watching!
You are a legend
I am honoured, sir:)
This is the video I was looking for: Thank you so much! My Fox Dampfer from 2014 Shows on all settings (Climb, Trail or Descent) the same compression. I guess the shown service Couleur solve this problem, what do you think? Best wishes from Germany
Hi, if there is no oil leak from around the rebound dial, then the full rebuild (changing damping oil and recharging IFP chamber) may resolve your compression problem. It's worth a try, I think. Maybe you are interested in my other video about shock noise and fix:
ruclips.net/video/Rc7fwX4bdnk/видео.html
Hope this helps. Cheers:)
Hi, congratulation for your video ! One question : what's the Ifp pression ? 400 psi ? Did you survive after the first use? :D
I recommend the IFP pressure of 350 or above on older Float models. Many of those who are familiar only with newer Float shocks tends to surprise at the high pressure on older models. For me, the very low IFP pressure on boost valve models came as a big surprise. But there are reasons for both cases, of course.
Hi. Fantastic video. Thanks for all your work. Could I just ask if you need to remove the bushes? From what I've seen, you could leave them in place and use some 8mm rod. Or, do you think the bushes will be damaged if you do this? Many thanks again.
Hi, I think it is ok to leave DU bushes as they are. The bushes are probably fine if you use a rod which fits tight enough into the bushes. And be careful not to scratch the PTFE coating when you stick in the rod into the bushes. If your rod has a sharp edge on the tip, then it may be a good idea to file it round and smooth.
Thanks for watching!
Amazing. This is what I was looking for. Cheers!
Hi, I am more than happy to hear that!
Thank you for watching!
@@MindDesignFactory I'm not able to find the shaft clamp holding tool. Where did you get that? I found some on ebay but those were expensive.
Hi, I think you would find many alternatives if you search for "axle vice" on the net. They should normally cost USD 30 - 50.
@@MindDesignFactory Thank you. My boost valve tune is 200. Does it mean IFP PSI should be 200 PSI?
Hi, yes the boost valve tune number indicates how much PSI is needed in IFP. Non-boost-valve shocks normally require 300~500PSI. But boost valve, very simply put, assists the main IFP chamber when the shock's compression nears the bottom out level. So boost valve models require less IFP pressure than non-boost-valve models. Ofcourse you can fine tune boost valve IFP, e.g. if you are a light rider, you can set IFP less and if you are a heavy rider, you can set IFP more, but not much.
Brilliant videos - one thing i dont understand is how the air doesnt come out of the needle attachment when you detach the shock pump. Does the attachment incorporate a one way valve?
Hi, the needle attachment has a Schrader valve built-in, so air doesn't leak :)
Thanks for watching!
Awesome work sir, this channel is very underrated. What happend in 51:50, is this small chunk part of suspension pump screw ?
Oh, that tiny metal debris probably stuck on my finger when I searched for a tool in my old tool box. Look closely on my middle finger at 51:44, I already have that on my finger before touching the pump.
Thanks a lot for watching, indeed!
Such a great video! quick ?, how did you determine how much oil to put back into the shock body (above the IFP)?? I can't seem to find any info on that.
Hi, the exact volume of oil is not important. The thing is that you need to fill the oil circuit with damping oil without any air bubbles trapped in there. So just fill the shock body with oil, put back the piston assembly and let oil overflow through the bleed port. No air in damping oil is the most important thing here.
Thanks for watching!
Hi, great video, one question please, is it better to remove the nitrogen needle whilst its still attached to the pump otherwise the air or nitrogen will come out of the needle when unscrewed from the pump ? Just asking as im not sure. Thanks Richie
Hi Richard, my needle is equipped with a schrader valve at its end, and the pump head is connected to this scharader valve. So it's airtight even if you disconnect your pump from the needle first.
Thanks for watching!
Hi Mind Design Factory, I have Fox float ctd boostvalve performance (rebound tune L velocity tune L boost valve tune 175) ID CHHM (2013), how do you set the IFP to the correct depth damper (7.5x?) can you help me please? What do I need to measure ? Thanks
You've got a 2013 model? For those who own newer models of Fox Float shocks, full rebuild procedures are published on Fox's website with all the info (incl. IFP settings). And for you Hulio, just check out the following link (scroll down to Step 10):
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?id=143&m=bike
Cheers!
Good video! One question: at 10:44 you disassemble easily the rebound wheel from the shaft inside it, but on my rp23 boost valve high volume, the shaft sticks in the rebound wheel. Is this normal or is some dirt inside? I don’t want to use force in fear of damaging something. Thx for your help!
Hi, a RP23 boost valve model and a normal RP23 model seem to have the identical mechanism up there. Does you rebound dial look just like mine? Then you should be able to pull the shaft out without difficulties. Can you rotate the shaft freely inside the rebound dial? If not, it may be clogged with grit or dirt.
Where did you learn to do this all by yourself? I bought an old Specialized Stumpjumper from 2007 however it seems that the Fork (Fox Float 120 RL) and the Rear Shock (Fox Triad) need a service, because the bike overall seemed a bit neglected, the blue lever for adjusting the compression (on the rear shock) is just flopping around and has no function and when compressing the rear shock it makes noises like someone is smacking their lips which sounds like something is leaking (air through oil maybe). I would be really thankful if you could give me any sources (If you have any.).
Really nice video, kind of calming seeing you disassemble and reassemble this rear shock and organise all these parts so well!
Hi, welcome to old bikes owners' alliance:)
First of all, you might be interested in my other video below:
[MTB maintenance] A typical symptom of damping oil aeration - Fox Float RP3 Part01 ruclips.net/video/Rc7fwX4bdnk/видео.html
Your shock needs a full rebuild. The procedure is almost identical to that shown in my videos. Fox's own service guides may be of help too, though those guides are for newer models. For example this guide:
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=143
As for your fork, Float 120 RL, I've got an old but brand-new Float 120 RLC (from 2009~2011?) waiting for a full service too! I think I will upload a video of how to rebuild that fork someday in the future, but can't promise when it will be done unfortunately. But I have just found this video on Fox official RUclips channel (this video is very informative to say the least, so check this out!):
ruclips.net/video/R7ZN8-BJMC0/видео.html
Cheers:)
@@MindDesignFactory Thanks for the reply and your help! If have further question in the future, would that be okay when I ask them?
Sure! You are very welcome!
Thank you for the helpfull video!
I wonder if i could use a co2 bike pump with a nitrogen cartridge to fill the IFP chamber?
Ah, it would be nice if we could use the CO2 inflator valve. But unfortunately it can not achieve the high pressure of over 300psi. We need an industrial nitrogen tank. But maybe we can find highly pressurised nitrogen cartridges somewhere...
Hi there. Where do I find the kit with the seals for the oiled filled portion of the shock, and the seals for the proposal nob? Thank you. Great video!!!
Hi, if you are located in US, then google for "803-00-381 Seal kit for RP23". Or it may be easier to order the kit at your local bike shop. I have the specifications of all the seals and o-rings used on those Fox Float shocks that I own myself, and order necessary parts from a couple of suppliers when needed. Cheers:)
Great video!
I just bought a used bike and tried to charge the and I could hear air leaking. I put it under water and the air is leaking from the propedal would taking it apart, clean and reapply grease fix it or is there an o right that needs to be changed.
Thought’s?
Is it only air that leaks at the propedal lever? No oil leak? Then I recommend to make sure that the upper eyelet part is threaded onto the piston shaft tight enough using Loctite.
You can see what I mean on my video at time 25:34 ~ 28:51.
I just had my rp23 lose all it's oil through the rebound adjuster while riding. So I was very interested in your video. I did not see you replace the melted o ring which I assumed was the cause of the leak in the first place. How does this rebuild solve the problem?
The very first sequence of this video shows how to set the replacement o-ring that you refer to. Just check out the link below:
ruclips.net/video/miMbqiG8ckE/видео.html
The original o-ring is translucent and made of urethane, but I am using a Nitrile one instead.
Hope this clears it up :)
Super video. Many thanks. 👍
Thanks for watching!
muito bom seu video, parabens otimo serviço , top valeu!
Muito obrigado!
Thank you very much
Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much for this video!!!!
I have the same problem with my Fox RP2 from 2010. I just fixed the new o-ring, but I‘m not sure which kind of oil I should take now. Can I use a 7W from Fox, or is it wrong?
Hi, yes you can use your Fox 7wt oil. I think Fox 7wt is an old model and has the viscosity of 31.82cSt@40℃. Actually you can use any Motorbike fork oil of similar viscosity.
Thanks for watching!
@@MindDesignFactory Perfect, thanks!!!
You are very welcome:)
Hello, would 40 degree 33cSt 100 degree 9.75cSt shock oil work? Or did you mix the two other oils to make 28cSt oil on purpose, so the viscosity was lower than before?
Hi, the mentioned shock oil should work just fine. The viscosity is roughly the same as Fox old ７wt suspension oil. I blended two oils of different viscosity to make lighter oil, yes. Because this RP23 will be used on my wife's bike, and she weighs only around 40kg:)
Ok! Thanks for your reply and thank you for the amazing tutorial! I have learned a great skill thanks to you!
I'm more than glad to hear that! Thanks:)
How did you know what is the correct depth of the IFP at 30:46? Im about to do the same rebuild but im not sure how deep i should put the IFP. I have RP23 190mm install length.
Hi, I have got old Fox data sheets. If you have an old RP23 (~about 2012), then set your IFP according to the IFP settings in this video.
@@MindDesignFactory Yes i have 2011 rp23 i think. Thank you very much. Super good video!
Very welcome. Good luck with your rebuild work :)
Thanks for watching!
Mr. How old is this type of Fox shock / dumper? A year of manufacturing?
This RP23 is a 2009 model.
what is the hardness HRC of the O ring cord? how do you know what size your shock is? It doesn't say on it.
Do you mean the hardness of the O-ring that I used to make the pellet to be plugged into the IFP charging port? Then its durometer is A90. "HRC" is, I think, normally used to mention the hardness of rigid substance like plastic or metal. The hardness of an O-ring is measured in "durometer".
The size of a shock is the length between the centers of both eyelets.
how do you measure the 1" in 5.5x1? also I cant find any 90A 7mm O-ring cord on ebay or online. there is only 70.
I have found the following video at Fox's website that shows you how to measure your rear shock:
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=679
Or maybe this PDF might be easy to see how to find out the stroke length of your shock:
www.srsuntour.com/fileadmin/user_upload/Downloads/Consumer/Bike/Rear-shock-guideline-4-download.pdf
Speaking of CS 7mm A90 O-ring, it may be hard to find it. But you can use A70 if you can't find A90. Just make it 3.5~4.0mm thick and tighten the pellet retainer screw with the torque of no less that 2.0Nm. Or if you want to get Fox genuine part, here is the part number:
010-00-011-A
Hey ! thanks for the video. How would i determine if it's this i need to do or just a simple service with the kit you showed at the end ?
Hi, if your shock leaks oil at around the rebound dial, doesn't click in when turning the propedal lever or has lost damping force, then you need to do full service. Any oil-related issue will require full service in other words. The rebuild kit I show at the end of the video is for a regular maintenance in the air chamber (inside the air can). If your shock has no oil-related problem, then you only need to do this air chamber service regularly.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for your response @@MindDesignFactory. I will check this.
You are very welcome :)
How do you install the rebound adjuster, I saw in one of your videos where you were pushing down the rod with a Allen key, I let the pressure out and it still has lots of force
Hi, it is an old RPL model which I tried to fix in the video you mention. Is your shock the same one? Actually I don't have a clue what I should say, because I am not given any slight info of your situation. Your shock's model, year, why you need to install the rebound adjuster (or, in other words, why you have removed it in the first place), etc. If you cannot move the rod even after you have let out the air from the main and the IFP chambers, I recommend you to check the internal of the piston rod.
And here is the most general way to solve this kind of problem:
Try to do the work described in my video "[MTB maintenance] Fox Float Shocks Oil Leak Fix - Part1" (during the time 8:50 - 17:45), then you should be able to move the rod freely.
Thank you, I appreciate the help, I have the rp23, the pro Pedal feature broke, which required me to take off the whole assembly, it seems a small bit of oil is leaking around the rebound adjuster anyways so I’ll be doing this job anyways
Hi, Charlie, I have just re-read my own reply to your first message. I might have sounded a bit rude? I hope it doesn't...
Well, RP23, Propedal not working, and oil leaking around the rebound dial, YES, you need a complete service shown in [MTB maintenance] Fox Float Shocks Oil Leak Fix - Part1&Part2. RP23 is a good shock well worth doing the oil leak fix. So I hope my videos will be of help to you. Cheers
Would you providing a link for the replacement 2.5mm x 1cs o-ring you used? I appreciate these videos, I was getting ready to send mine out for a $150 rebuild but I now have the confidence that I can do this myself and save a bunch of money!
There was a similar question before and below is my reply to that question:
Hi, it may be easiest to search for "O-Ring 2.5mm Inner Dia 1mm Width" at eBay. There are also Fox genuine shock (full) rebuild kit available on the net. Your local DIY center/store might be able to help you get those, too.
Cheers.
@@MindDesignFactory Thanks!
It's my pleasure. Fix it and have a nice ride!
Thank you for watching!
At approx. 39:30 i have the rp23 model and it has 3 micro discs (0,5mm?) Where should they be attached?
I think that you mean those 3 tiny spacers on the check valve (needle) which I hold with fingers in the following part of the video:
ruclips.net/video/miMbqiG8ckE/видео.html
Put the spring onto the check valve and then 3 spacers. Hope you get it.
@@MindDesignFactory you are the man! Thx alot!
Glad to know you have sorted it out :)
Awesome video I need to do this exact service, can you link the ring supplier?
Thanks
Hi, it may be easiest to search for "O-Ring 2.5mm Inner Dia 1mm Width" at eBay. There are also Fox genuine shock (full) rebuild kit available on the net. Your local DIY center/store might be able to help you get those, too.
hi again, where can i get the rubber pellet that you replace the one that seals the floating piston in the nitrogen chamber, thanks
I made that pellet from a big o-ring of 7mm diameter as shown in the video. If you live in USA or UK, try to search for "Fox air valve pellet".
If you will make one from an o-ring, then I recommend you to choose an o-ring of durometer 90. Durometer 70 is too soft to stand with the high pressure like 300~psi. Cheers:)
@@MindDesignFactory found it, thanks for the prompt reply have a good weekend mate
No problem, have a nice weekend, you too!
How do you keep the air in when removing the needle? I’m trying several things and no matter what I’m losing the air when removing the needle.
Do you use a home-made pellet like I do in the video? And if so, do you use a pellet thick enough to self-seal the needle hole? Also if you use a thicker needle, you tend to lose air when pulling it out. If you use a proper nitrogen charging needle, then it should be ok. Oh, by the way, how do you know you lose air when removing the needle? A loud and short hissing sound is normal, and that's the air blowing out from the inside of the needle. Doesn't your Propedal lever click in at each position? Can you rotate it freely around?
@@MindDesignFactory My lever does not click in place and rotate freely around. Is that a sign of losing nitrogen?
@@chunnyj Yes, it is a sign of insufficient nitrogen pressure in IFP chamber.
What type of bike is it for? Do you pedal a lot? Why 400PSI in IFP chamber?
The type of bikes or if you are a power pedaller have nothing to do with IFP settings. Do you know valving, aeration, cavitation etc of hydraulic damping systems? Or do you think that IFP is there only for bottom out support? Old Float shocks with propedal normally have 350~400psi. Post-boostvalve shocks are fine with much lower pressure in IFP chamber. You can have what ever psi in IFP chamber you like. But my IFP settings are based on old Fox technical documents/drawings, and not unfounded bollocks :)
Thanks for watching, anyway!
@@MindDesignFactory yeah, no problem with that. But pro pedal works poorly on low IFP pressures and I was wondering if you actually need it and use it, just out of curiosity. I dont use it, thats why
I use ProPedal but not tweak its settings depending on terrains or conditions. It does the job for me while climbing a steep mountain road with steady slow pedalling sitting on the saddle or when riding on hard packed terrain. It is just like lockout with flood-gate. So for trail riding, downhill or other hectic riding, ProPedal is practically good for nothing, I think. You are probably a seasoned trail rider and no XC-oriented rider, and prefer keeping the shock fully opened all the time.
Awesome job ! Thanks a lot ! I have a '05 RP3 that needs that kind of service and these videos will help me a lot. I just bought the both air and oil sealing kits and I have a doubt: doesn't the kit come with this 2.5x1mm oring ? I'll have to buy it separately ? And the rider will be my 110lb-weight son. Do you think I still have to put 300-400psi in nitro chamber, or it could be less ? I was thinking about 200psi... the air can will be at 50-60psi... Regards from Brazil !!!
Hi, Eduardo! The oil sealing kit (or rebuild kit) should includes all seals and o-rings, I think. It may also include the pellet and the ball to plug into the hole to the IFP chamber. So you are just ready to go:)
Regarding the IFP pressure, I will not basically recommend lower pressure in IFP chamber. All of my old Fox shocks temd to make a knocking sound when it starts compressing if the IFP pressure is low. So it is best, I think, to adjust and tune the pressure in the main air chamber not in the IFP chamber. 200psi? No, way too low unless it is a boost valve model.
Your son is a lucky guy having a dad who is willing to fix the bike of his kid!
Wish you all the best:)
@@MindDesignFactory Thank you! Let's see if I can put this old fella to run again. With your tips, I'm sure it will be easier. I'll let you know about my progress, ok ?
I'm looking forward to the positive outcome, then!
Oh, I forgot to tell you in the previous reply, but you could use damping oil of lower than default viscosity to better suit your son's weight (propedal stiffness, rebound responsiveness and so on). It is always safe, though, to use the default viscosity.
Tchau!
@@MindDesignFactory I just checked it... I have a Motul 10W oil, but it is 36 @ 40°. I probably should buy another one...
At 36@40° Propedal might feel like "locked-out" for your son. 30@40° may be a good compromise provided that he is still in his growing phase.
What is the proper oil weight since you blended the different ones?
The viscosity of original oil for old Float models are probably 31.82cst@40, as shown in the video. So you could use fork oil of similar viscosity. When you want to blend oil of different viscosities, you need to check with the viscosity-blend-chart of your oil's manufacturer.
Thanks for the clear video. What kind of grease do you use for mounting the o-rings?? Is it vaseline?? Gr Peter
I use Shimano premium grease, Slick Honey or Motul Tech Grease 300. In this video I use Shimano grease. I think any multi purpose grease will do just fine.
Thanks for watching!
@@MindDesignFactory Thanks for the reply. i think that the same seal is leak with mine Fox. It will be great if you can provide me with the original partnumbers. I see you have the serviceset for the airvalve at the end of the video. Do you also have the number of the boostvalve kit??
The original part no. of the o-ring is 029-08-043. What do you mean by "boostvalve kit"?
Hello. I mean all the seals that are needed to service where you put the oxidgen in with the needle. Not the airsleeve. But i think i allready have the needed seals. One last question. How do i know what my shock size is? I think it is exacly the same as yours. But i want to be sure. Thanx for all your effort en i will let you know when i am ready with it.
Best Regards from Holland
Hi, what you mean by "boostvalve kit" is Fox RP23 Boost Valve Rear Shock Rebuild Seal Kit (Part No. 803-00-381). And the shock size is the length from the center of the eyelet to that of the other eyelet (see the drawing in the link below):
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=593
If you will service RP23 Boost Valve, then the site below will be of great help:
www.ridefox.com/fox17/help.php?m=bike&id=143
Thanks for greetings from Holland :)
Nice done. Have you ever tried to bleed damper with syringe?
Hi, no I haven't tried that. You mean bleeding oil through the bleeding port of the body bearing using a syringe just like we do with a disc brake caliper? Have you ever done that before? Is there any smart way to bleed using a syringe without leaving air in the piston shaft? I think we need to put the shock upside down and lean it in order to let the remaining air escape from the bleeding port.
I would like to try it if I can get hold of a thin tube that fits into the bleeding port:)
Yes. One mechanic from Russia told that this is possible and he did this before ordered vacuum machine. I think I will try with my Fox DPS.
Thanks for the info! That Russian guy must have mastered a magic. We need two open ports at the same time, one for putting in oil and the other for letting air out. It should be very difficult to bleed with only one open port even using a vacuum machine. Because you've got to create a vacuum inside the body and put in oil KEEPING that vacuum. I'm very interested in the idea though:)
Let me know if you have done it. Cheers!
Good job...but,Shouldn't you put nitrogen instead of air opposite the oil chamber?
Yes, you are right. If you have access to a tank of "compressed pure nitrogen gas", then you should charge IFP chamber with nitrogen gas for several reasons. 78% of normal air is already nitrogen, so there won't be much difference unless you use industrial pure nitrogen gas. Theoretically normal air tends to leak faster and deteriorate oil faster than pure nitrogen, so when using normal air you might need to do full-service of a shock at shorter intervals than when using pure nitrogen. I, myself, have never had troubles what so ever on my shocks due to the usage of normal air. So nitrogen is not a must, I should say.
I personally think that RockShox rear shocks are excellent for a home mechanic because they comes charged with normal air and can be easily recharged and serviced.
@@MindDesignFactory Thanks for the valuable information, my friend ... But I have another question: Does this statement apply to brain technology?
Hi, I'm by no means a suspension expert and just expressing my own thoughts. So take my words as such:)
Speaking of "brain technology", I really don't know much about it. I consider it to be Specialized's own catchy terminology of blow-off circuit just as Fox's "terralogic". And you wonder, if I understand you correctly, if the usage of normal air will affect the way a brain shock functions. Well. I think there won't be "noticeable" difference function-wise, even if there might be a slight difference between spring rate of compressed normal air and that of compressed pure nitrogen. But compressed normal air contains much more humidity than compressed nitrogen, so this may take its toll on the internal parts in the long run. This is just my speculation because I've never owned a Specialized bike. Cheers:)
@@MindDesignFactory You say these words only from your humility, everyone exploited this video, and I personally used a lot of your valuable information ... Thank you for answering my comments and do not skimp on us with new videos ... Thank you very much
I really appreciate your kind words. Thanks a lot!
Hi Mind Design Factory, great you. You are awesome. Can you please give me info for parts which you used to change all of seals. Usually I can find only some of parts, not all. Thank you
Sorry, but I've got to ask you what you mean by "parts which I used to change all of seals". No seals but a tiny o-ring were changed in the video, I think. Can you tell me which parts of the video you refer to? Cheers.
@@MindDesignFactory Sorry, you didn't change all seals, only that small o-ring. Do you have info where you did order it? Some link or whatever? Best :)
There were similar questions before and below is my reply to those questions:
Hi, it may be easiest to search for "O-Ring 2.5mm Inner Dia 1mm Width" at eBay or Amazon etc. There are also Fox genuine shock (full) rebuild kits available on the net. Your local DIY center/store might be able to help you get those, too.
Cheers.
Zdravo Dejan mozes li mi pomoci? Hvala
Согласен, полезное видео. Молодец))) Скажи где иглу купить для накачки камеры, ссылку если можно)
Привет, вот ссылка на иглу для заправки азотом:
www.aliexpress.com/item/4001081133232.html?spm=a2g0o.tm800056042.1624848240.1.225a5615dM6E3J&pdp_ext_f=%7B%22ship_from%22:%22CN%22,%22sku_id%22:%2212000018270238436%22%7D&&scm=1007.25281.251430.0&scm_id=1007.25281.251430.0&scm-url=1007.25281.251430.0&pvid=5edabe8d-8128-47bb-aae7-fed670ac945d&utparam=%257B%2522process_id%2522%253A%25221%2522%252C%2522x_object_type%2522%253A%2522product%2522%252C%2522pvid%2522%253A%25225edabe8d-8128-47bb-aae7-fed670ac945d%2522%252C%2522belongs%2522%253A%255B%257B%2522floor_id%2522%253A%252225429069%2522%252C%2522id%2522%253A%25221121015%2522%252C%2522type%2522%253A%2522dataset%2522%257D%252C%257B%2522id_list%2522%253A%255B%25221000202582%2522%255D%252C%2522type%2522%253A%2522gbrain%2522%257D%255D%252C%2522scm%2522%253A%25221007.25281.251430.0%2522%252C%2522tpp_buckets%2522%253A%252221669%25230%2523186385%252371_21669%25234190%252319160%2523222_15281%25230%2523251430%25234%2522%252C%2522x_object_id%2522%253A%25224001081133232%2522%257D
Поищите в google "nitrogen needle", тогда найдете больше альтернатив.
Спасибо за просмотр!
Thanks so much for a really helpful video. I have been trying to find a place in Thailand where I can get it serviced. I am thinking to take it apart but got no confident at all.
I’m using rp2 and it is stiff at the beginning of the ride, then after a few jumps it is kind of softer. Not sure if a full rebuild is needed in that case. I don’t see oil leaks or anything from it. About the needle, will it work with the normal shock pump?
Hi, the situation is nearly the same here in Japan, especially in rural districts.
RP2 is rather an old model. If your shock has never undergone full rebuild, then it is about time to get it fully serviced. I would recommend to replace air-related seals and o-rings using "803-00-142 Fox Suspension Float Rear Shock Rebuild Kit" first. If the stiffness still persists, then you would need to tear the shock down to find the possible cause of the issue.
And the needle, yes the needle fits into any normal shock pump because it has a Shrader valve at the end. Cheers:)
Thank you so much for the part number and the recommendation.
I am thinking of buying the float fluid together with the seals and try servicing just the air chamber as per your suggestion. Hopefully, it will come alive again :) Cheers.
Hi, keep me informed about how it goes, if it doesn't bother you.
Hope your shock is remedied without much ado. Cheers:)
@@MindDesignFactory i have just taken it apart. There is about a table spoon of brown oil as I twisted the outer can to open. After cleaning up and try pressing the shock a few times, I found the brown fluid coming out at the seal where the rod going into the bottom part (close to the bleeding port). I guess that fluid should not be in that chamber where float fluid should go? I’m not sure what to do next. Maybe I need a full rebuild.
Hi, you have got a trouble! No, not really. This is a rather common issue on older Float shocks unfortunately. Can you take time to check out my another video:
ruclips.net/video/kEcWn6pa4t0/видео.html
You will find the answer there:) The bad news is that you have got to do full rebuild work to resolve your oil leak problem. I'm here to help if you would need it. Cheers.
Привет у меня аморт fox float rp 23 какое масло по заводу в бочок наливать ?
Привет, если ваш RP23 такой же старый, как мой, используйте высококачественное вилочное масло с вязкостью около 32 сSт при 40°C. Например, Motorex Racing Fork Oil 10. Если вы чувствуете, что ваш амортизатор нуждается в большем демпфировании во время скоростного спуска, вам поможет масло с более высокой вязкостью.
Ясно спасибо
пожалуйста!
Does the red Rebound Dial seal something or can you remove it and the detent ball without having to rebuild the whole system? Mine feels crunchy, i just bled the damper but want to avoid to rebuild everything.
The rebound dial doesn't seal anything, so removing it won't do any harm itself. The problem is that it is very difficult to put it back in place. If you have time, just take a look at my previous video titled "[MTB maintenance] An old Fox Float RPL rear shock repair".
The crunchiness you mention may be, I guess, caused by the grit under the dial's flanged part (the part you pinch and turn). If that's the case, loosen the two set screws, pull out the rebound dial just slightly (0.2~0.3mm) and blow the grit off using an air blow gun. If you do this, however, be careful not to pull out the dial too much, otherwise you get into trouble:) Or maybe you can do it by simply pulling the rebound dial without loosening the set screws (because there is a very slight play even when the set screws are tightened)
Hope this helps. Cheers!
@@MindDesignFactory Thanks! I pulled the red dial out before i was aware of the problem you mentioned. I was somehow able to clamp the rebound rod behind one of the cams to slide the rebound knob back on but it took me 2 hours :D So i wouldn't recommend fixing the lever when it's still working, because you risk to lose the rebound adjustment.
As I replied to a similar question before, servicing (incl. disassembling and re-assembling) the upper eyelet part normally requires the full service of the whole shock. So it is not "not recommended", but "should not be done" to dismantle the upper eyelet (incl. the rebound dial and the propedal spindle).
You says "you risk to lose the rebound adjustment", yeah so I told you "be careful not to pull out the dial too much, otherwise you get into trouble:)". But my reply seemed to be a bit too late, sorry.
Anyway is your crunchiness problem gone now? Cheers.
@@MindDesignFactory yes it works fine now. the shock is from 2011 and i rode it in muddy conditions so it really needed some cleaning. I also did the schrader valve mod for the ifp chamber. And your video is the most complete instruction for this shock :)
The problem solved, great! The schrader valve attached to the IFP port is a nice mod for us MTB home-mechanic.
Thanks for watching my videos.
Rubbing the comment from you only proves how true my words are!
Thanks for watching! Are you from Bulgaria?
brilliant
Thank you for watching:)
can i use fox float fluid as damper fluid?
Do you mean that blueish oil to lubricate seals and o-rings of a Fox shocks? You can but I would never recommend it. Fox float fluid is much heavier (I mean much more viscous) than normal fork oil used in Fox rear shocks.
Fox float fluid is for lubrication stancions, seals, foam rings and o-rings etc.
Thanks for watching!
Thanks!
Thank you so much for your support! I really appreciate that.
Can you reuse the ifp o-ring ??
Each time you do this kind of "full service", you should replace all of the seals and o-rings. For amateur riders like me, however, it doesn't need to be taken over-seriously though in my opinion. You can feel and see if a seal or an o-ring is worn, damaged or loose, and needs to be replaced. If you earn money from riding mountain bike races, then it may be another story...
Thank you for your comment and watching my video!
Hello. where can I buy this tool with the needle to inflate. Thank you very much 49:24 👍
yes I found the answer in a comment. Thank you all the same👍
Good you found the answer :) Thanks for watching!
@@MindDesignFactory Excuse me, I wanted to ask you to inflate the chamber with the needle, do I have to do it every time? Friendliness 👍
@@MindDesignFactory How to remove the white Teflon-type safety cap? once removed it is not damaged. Thanks for your patience👍
That white ball cannot be removed without damaging it. Use a thin extractor, a strong needle or any other tool you like to take it off. You can even reuse it if it is not severely damaged.
You also asked if you need to recharge IFP chamber every time you service a shock, right? You have to recharge IFP with nitrogen or natural air every time you change damping oil.
very good
Thanks for watching!
안녕하세요
레버부분만 해체후 조립이 가능 한가요
Hi, no you can't. You need to disassemble the whole shock in order to re-assemble the lever part correctly.
안녕하세요, 그럴 수 없습니다. 레버 부분을 올바르게 다시 조립하기 위해서는 쇽 전체를 분해해야 합니다.
시청 해주셔서 감사합니다!
Good morning, how do I get the measure of the shock for the IFP?
Good morning, how do I get the measure of the shock for the IFP?
IFP depth is measured from the top of the IFP to the top edge of the shock body (or stanchion). Or do I misunderstand your question?
Could u do this for me I need this done
Hi, I would be very willing to help if you were my neighbour :)
Thanks for watching!
I lost the ball bearing and spring that have been removed here ruclips.net/video/miMbqiG8ckE/видео.html !!! hehe no idea where to get the exact spring.. ball should be easy enough..
It's bad luck, mate. I don't think you need a spring of the exact same size and spring rate, but still it would be very difficult to find similar one, I guess.
where can that needle be found?
You can find it on eBay, for example. Try searching for "nitrogen needle". Cheers.
@@MindDesignFactory thanks you saved me I was going to throw the amount out the window🤣
Whoa, simmer down there. Your shock may still have a long life in it:)
@@MindDesignFactory sorry if it is misspelled but i am using google translate to write you in english
Don't worry of mistranslations of Google translation. I'm so glad that you dropped a comment here. Thanks for watching and your comment, indeed!
Ponle traductor amigo español saludos
Hello, I don't understand Spanish, so please use RUclips's automatic translation to translate my English subtitles to Spanish.
где то написано 10вт фокс кто то пишет 20 вт голд хз кому верить
Fox green 20wt заменяет их старое масло 10wt. Указания веса, такие как 10wt или 20wt, могут вводить в заблуждение. Они показывают вес масла, но вам следует искать cST (centistokes) вместо реальной вязкости масла.
То есть по заводу туда заливают так же 20вт и 10 ?