well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Instrument, watchmakers lathes have been around for a long time. There are also mini milling machines as well. Unfortunately, these machines have their uses, but are very restrictive in what you can machine. Model engineering shows are fantastic when it comes to miniature machines and people who have limited space can produce some very professional models. Thanks.
as an old logan 820 owner, i have to say that I'm very impressed with this mini lathe, i wasn't expecting something so rigid as this is, for sure that it wont win any races but if u want to do some things in aluminum or bronze, yes, it can do it, it will take its time tho
@@17hmr243 I can tell youve never used a real lathe, this tiny chinesium piece of aluminum extrusion is basically only good for very small things that dont need to be precise, that can be made out of softer\weaker materials at a very slow pace. In other words toothpicks. There are a million and one reason I can list as to why nobody should buy this lathe and why it would be better to use the money towards a down payment on actual lathe, and I can list them if youd like.
@@jeremiahbrown6456 biggest baddest thing in town hay. So where do i put this biggest baddest lathe of yours. Hobbies dont need the money your speaking of. Wetting your feet in a feild you dont know if you want like or need we not going to buy ur lathe. Thank god you cought me out living the lie never useing a lathe weight of my shoulders can u tell me my winning lotto numbers too sine you know all..? Its a toy that can teach an put out small parts and scratch an itch
Works great for carrying on my tool cart. Lots of little parts you need to replace on equipment that just need slight mods and you don't care to walk to the shop. Don't laugh at the toothpick maker till you see how accurate it really is.
As a 12 y/0 Indian kid who has been working on a miniature rocket engine for 3 years, I was sad when I realised that I have to buy that big piece of chunk, but your video gave me hope. Thanks❤❤
One of the no no's is, never turn wood or MDF in a metal lath. The fine dust mixed with oi. can jam the lead screw and carriage way and is not easy to remove.
@@nelunicoara4483 I have been using metal lathes for over 50 years in my trade, so when it comes to turning material that creates a lot of dust, you have to exercise caution. Wood is for wood lathes and metal for metal lathes.
Wonder how long pot metal chuck jaws last, the scroll component endures high stress But it would make a nice gift with a workbook to a kid to get them to try the craft and by the time the chuck breaks you'd know wether a real mini lathe is in order
I've always been on the fence on these, but this might actually work, especially because it looks like there's enough of a foundation for my own upgrades. I'd probably have to modify it anyway, since there are cases where I'd have to work on things up to 5cm in diameter and not just 2.
I have the older full plastic version of this. This is part of a multi tool range and you can actually get addons and parts for it. I have a heaver duty 4 jaw chuck for mine.
il punto di forza che ti fa scegliere un mini tornio, dovrebbe esere la prcisione, data da un eccellente costruzione, e dal passo ridotto della guida del carro e del bancale, che permettono avanzamenti centesimali. Dal gioco che si vede ad occhio nudo quando avanzi l'utensile verso il pezzo, dal rallentare del mandrino quando tornisci, e dal fatto che il tutto sembra alluminio e plastica anzichè acciaio temprato e rettificato. Da tutto questo, mi sento di dire che quei pochi soldi che costa, sono buttati. Il video, come tutti i tuoi video, è girato in maniera egregia, come anche la scelta della musica da un senso di eleganza e raffinatezza all'insieme. PS l'interruttore a peretta è inguardabile
Yea good luck getting a good one from what I heard every 1 of those that come out of the factory working good you have 100 that come out crooked and working like like crap.
i have similar lathe from thecooltool. i made many things on it for car, rc airplane model, bicycle, water valve... good things are: small , light, it can be carried in 1 or 2 suitcases, depends how many accessories you have, it is good for soft materials: wood, al, brass-you can go with 0.1-0.15mm deep cut. bad things are: electric motor has fixed speed and it rotates too fast and it is weak and it died very soon, it is better to install pwm to be able to control rpm and stronger motor from 12v car air compressor. it seams this chuck is made from al same as on mine, and it always loosen and i tried to fix it with more force and then teeth broke, so i had to buy chuck from sherline-very good thing, steel chuck., main bearings get loose very soon but it is better to make some adapter to be able to adjust pre load on main bearings that can prevent it from often bearing change. very soon will be worn brass nut that is below longitudinal moving table, and is better to buy m6 left thread tap/die to mill iron is very hard only mild steel with 0.05mm deep cut and very slow movement of knife. you need much more accessories to be able to do almost everything, i spent 2500 euros to have all, now i have proxxon pd250 because i had to mill inox. for undemanding requests and for not too often use it is good
Greetings. For all those who want a review I comment you that I have the 10-in-1 model of the same brand, and I can tell you with certainty that it is a good machine to work on small projects. The only thing they need to be careful about is giving it constant cleaning, lubrication and calibration as its modular design allows a lot of dirt to accumulate, and decalibration can occur frequently. (It is good to always check before each project, or even once a day if they use it very frequently and need very exact precision). It is true that the price can be somewhat expensive compared to other similar offers, but the grace would be in the high compatibility of its parts, so the ideal is always to opt for a pack that is more than 1 single machine, or simply be disposed to expand the kit in the future. I have even made mixes that do not make much sense, that you would not find in the market, but that have helped me in very particular projects. So without a doubt I can recommend it as a good complement for the workshop, to work * on a small scale *
Hi Stgo, you seem to know something. One like this would help me a lot for my hobby projects. Tell me whether this is a high precision machine. I felt that this one wobbles while rotating. Even the slider did not seem to be steady while adjusting. Thanks.
@@brijlal973 Yeah, I know your feeling, in this video that is a basic configuration, but with more parts you can make more precision. Some of the large and middle blocks have long threads with beds to acoplate more parts, that beds have teflon sliders that can be calibrated an stabilazed, that let it very precise. Only I forget to mention 1 thing: I made it a customization to the power source. The machine doesnt have an speed regulator to reduce the RPM, but in aliexpress is easy find one very cheap. I bought one and all the precision can be support when there is no excess of rpm. Of course will be better if the change of rpm were for a gear box, but for such small things, so much torque is never generated that a dimmer that regulates the current is not enough.
@@brijlal973 Indeed there is excessive game and more important than that due only to the pitch of the threaded rod. I drilled and tapped graduated lever to put a locking screw on the flat of the axle. It is necessary to catch up to make measurements. The residual game is approximately 3 graduations (0.12 mm)
Hello Stgo, I just received my 10 in 1 last week, seems to be a great mini tool, So I have a question, I am building the metal lathe so I have noticed that thr chuck has a "little"runout about .5 mm, so I wonder if there is a tweek in order to fix it or do I have to buy a better chuck?, thank you in advance and best regards from Mexico.
If only they sold a 4-jaw independent chuck for these things... It would alleviate some of the lack of 'precision' this machine most likely will have, even with fine tuning. Even the mini-lathe that is one order of magnitude bigger than this one has issues with attaining the needed accuracy for precision work, but as they say, you get what you pay for. The good news is that a machine like this can be upgraded to increase precision, torque/power, control and versatility, mainly with the headstock and powerplant which will need to be replaced with something that's actually precision machined, heavy, and solid, and by that I mean angular bearing mounts for both sides, a decent solid shaft for mounting the chuck, and a proper pulley or whatever powertrain can be utilized to run it, whether mini v-belt, chain or direct gear drive with a potential option for adding power feed and a decent quick change gearbox. Heck, 3d printed gears could work with that for this machine. A decent DC motor far more powerful than that puny little thing would come after improving the headstock into a real one, albeit miniature. The motor can go with a PSU powering a PWM speed controller (make sure the motor is built to work with that) and a means to reverse rotation, whether electric or mechanical. I don't think they make Morse tapers of the size that can fit for this machine, so one will have to find or make something to mount things like miniature drill chucks on that tailstock, among a few other things. Finally, the body. Precision with any lathe requires solid rigidity. On such a small scale like this, one can use T H I C C extruded aluminum square beam or even solid block/cast aluminum for the bed and major components like the headstock, as well as increase the clearance for items turned on it. For instance, in it's current configuration, you can't turn a grinder rotor / armature on this thing to deburr/clean the commutator bars, but add one spacer block each side and it can be done. Which brings me to another note - if you buy something like this for some serious use case, buy two sets, or at least buy another one whose parts are compatible with it, like the 6-in-1 bundle that not only looks similar but uses the same extruded aluminum stock and binders. This exponentially multiplies the versatility of tiny machines like these.
Indeed there is excessive game and more important than that due only to the pitch of the threaded rod. I drilled and tapped graduated lever to put a locking screw on the flat of the axle. It is necessary to catch up to make measurements. The residual game is approximately 3 graduations (0.12 mm)
Watch the spinning chuck closely, it wobbles. The most important part on a lathe is having a true precision chuck and spindle. Mine has an out of round spindle and when you clamp a perfectly round piece into the chuck, it wobbles, be aware. You can't get parts for this thing.
Nice demonstration. It would be nice if the vendors would put out specifications. Some of my questions were answered in the comments, but it would be nice to know if better chucks are available, replacement bearings, etc.
I'm astounded at how the author of the video boldly turns a bolt holding it by the thread as this is a little tricky and requiring a gentle touch even on a big lathe. I wonder if it means the chuck is so soft the bolt impressed grooves in it. Also, to everyone asking about making threads on this - I can't see any gearing or lead screw, which means you can't sync up horizontal movement with the turning of the chuck. Which means no threads . Anyhow, for a model maker, something like a Sherline would be a better investment than this, and in general, I think the smallest acceptable general-purpose lathe is something like a TOS MN 80.
@@jul371-y5p I've made quite a few threads, and this just doesn't pass the laugh test. Between the extremely even turning movement, the fact you'd have to find the groove *every* pass, and the elephant in the room which is the fact you'd have to somehow guess the turning speed to match the thread climb rate (where the differences in pitch between different threads are often like, 3 turns/inch) I don't believe you can do this by hand unless you are an android. Or, unless you use a die, but for those you don't need a lathe, do you.
@@VladimirE.-is2ee guess in inches is different, ive made threads in a lathe with locking the advance lateral/parallel movement to the thread i need, 1/1.25/1,5/2mm and of course on a metric sized rod with just my hands and locking the advance so doesnt mater how fast i move it always move on the desired distance the only problem is being you slow like a turtle and if you need a square thread just do the same with a square cutter so guess imperial sytem is more about machine than skill
@@jul371-y5p No matter how many times I read this, I have trouble believing you can turn an accurate thread by hand/ without gearing, but of course, if you make it in a video and give a good show of both the thread profile and how it fits a counterpart, I'll upvote.
@@VladimirE.-is2ee can be done ive done it without the automatic advance/lateral movement of the cutter, ive done it with and oldschool lathe that was only manual adjusment, was dificult but not impossible, and takes more time than you would expect, but od lathes ive used had like a gearbox on the wheels/levers so doesnt matter how fast you spin it, if its set to advance 1mm L or R will just move that unless youre slow but again, metric screws are easy af just joes 1 1,25 1,5 1,75 or 2mm of separation between threads never worked with imperial sizes because theres not the standard
Thanks for presentation of Mr. Daniela Tartaglia. I watched his many videos that excellent. For your questions in my opinion you can not produce screw using this lathe. Because this model has no automatic and adjustable sytems that necessary for screw making. Best regards.
As usual it’s a DIY kit that, in its stock condition, quality and configuration, is only just barely able to do what it is made for… but at the very least, it can be improved. That will need a LOT more time and work, though. But a machine of this size is ideal for the folks who want to learn how to do the basics without too much danger, risk or expense.
I have one, as long as you are gentle and slower with cuts. it is a great lathe. I have made stainless inlay rings With mine. And am using it right now to make a 3.5 inch track live steam train. I highly suggest to get a motor control. It help with lathe greatly.
I got one, and frankly speaking YES, it allows to do many things, but NOT well. These modules are practical, but it's difficult or impossible to get them to align the rotation axles properly. The clutch also is not well centered and its jaws do not hold the object you're working on properly, centered and straight. So if you just want to have fun, go ahead but avoid if you want to do clean and precision work.
@@doxielain2231 Dead right there, one of the first things you learn the hard way when training to use one is to centre the workpiece in the chuck with a little dial gauge first before any machining or else you only ruin it.
So what would it take to make a mini lathe that is quality? Could a craftsman use a janky lathe to make better parts to replace inadequate parts? Or maybe there are better parts for sale that you could upgrade with?
I suppose it depends on the definition of "precision". I doubt you would be chasing micrometers with a tool like this. There are professional level tools available. Base price is going to be double what this model goes for. They can quickly jump up to thousands of dollars US.
Bonjour, Magnifique découverte que ce minitour ! Merci du partage ! Il me semble que la "poupée" (?) ne soit pas bien axée ? Mais pour satisfaire ma passion qui est le ferromodélisme, et la construction de matériel, ce tour et une fraiseuse du même acabit feront mon bonheur ! Quel bonheur de s'être rencontré sur RUclips.... Que de choses ai je encore à apprendre, même à soixante et onze ans ? Merci et bonnes continuations. De biens cordiales civilités Patrick (France)
I would not use metal , as i had the more powerful 60w version with a variable speed upgrade and when cutting metal the 3 Jaw chuck broke in half and also you will burn out the little 24w motor. These little lathes are great for the small toy making stuff, so spend an extra £150 more and get a metal working lathe, if your into very small machining.
@@Xonkykong i cant recommend any lathe really as i have on had 4 lathes in my life. if your from the UK , Then i can say the Clark CL300 is very good for the price as it is made of high standards compared to cheaper imports that boast about more power but you end up rebuilding it to get it to be good. as plenty of vids on RUclips showing about the problems with Chinese imports that has gone through no quality control. CL300 Clarke lathes are made in china but they have to be made correct and function to Clarks High spec as they have there reputation to keep up so hence the higher price, and that is why most hobby modelers buy them. If your in the market of buying a small lathe then watch many RUclips vids and weigh up the option. The size you need and the type of metal your going to machine and of course the price factor All i can say is , in the 30+ years of metal working, Don't buy cheap or you will spend a lot of time upgrading and costing you a lot more or selling it to buy a better one
@@denbrisko1978 I did have this one 60W High Power Mini Metal Lathe Soft Metalworking Woodworking DIY Model Making and on the power cord it had a speed controller. well a voltage regulator to adjust the speed.
What will the chinese come up with next?! And the motor runs miles too fast, surely it can be slowed down with a suitable pulse width modulated speed control, and I've got one here somewhere. Or better still it should have a much slower motor, preferably with reduction gearing. I used to use the old fashioned manual lathes way back 40-odd years ago and I could still use one.
super nice tool but limited to its cutting height, company needs to create the same design, but provide shims to raise the motor and tail another 50mm or so
what types of metal can this work, ive debated on picking one up an only reason i haven't is u can pick up one of the 7x14 lathes for just a bit more so ive held off buying one of these to get the bigger one but ive also seen them like this one that is setup so u can change it from the lathe to a mill an a few other tools but what really interests me is the lathe an mill part of the 6 in mini lathe. i can pick up a mill or a lathe that ive been looking at both for $450 each so id end up only being able to get one at a time an would be some time in between but if the little 6 in 1 mini lathe an mill are something that can work aluminum it would be perfect for me to get to learn with but my biggest worry with doing something like that is i would end up wanting to work with steel an i know for sure the other 2 machines are able to but i have very serious doubts that these 60w machines would be able to do much with steel so part of me just wants to get the 7x14 mini lathe an the proxxon mill. would love to know someones who has owned one of these an worked with it, what materials was u able to work with an what materials are u not able to work with on it. thanks for the video, at some point i'll end up picking one of these up just for the size even after ive gotten the tools i want just cause this is to cool of a tool not to have.
Nice video, I have ordered one. I wonder if it is possible to place a drill bit in the center holder chuck? That will be very handy to drill a precise center point or a centered hole into a workpiece.
Thats a nice little tool the only flaw I see is you can only turn wood under 2 inches in diameter! If the center's and cutting tool would raise up for larger diameter it would be perfect for wooden toy wheels other than that I'd be interested!
Hello, is it possible to install a 20mm cylinder in the head? How many millimeters can be installed there because I saw that you put 8-9 mm and I need 20mm in the header. Will it be suitable for 20 mm? Thanks for your reply ✌️
👉👉 Link mini lathe: s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DkT0QhH
The power of the lathe in the palm of my hand.
well it's a lathe ruclips.net/user/postUgkxN9zrzkkhnjUF5PQbuA_B1gYdsfCu9k6z but it wasn't what i would have anticipated. Headstock, tailstock, carriage apron are manufactured from aluminum now not cast iron. The spindle diameter for the bearings is too small allowing for a few play in the spindle so I am using some blue Loctite to take out the play.
Instrument, watchmakers lathes have been around for a long time. There are also mini milling machines as well. Unfortunately, these machines have their uses, but are very restrictive in what you can machine. Model engineering shows are fantastic when it comes to miniature machines and people who have limited space can produce some very professional models. Thanks.
as an old logan 820 owner, i have to say that I'm very impressed with this mini lathe, i wasn't expecting something so rigid as this is, for sure that it wont win any races but if u want to do some things in aluminum or bronze, yes, it can do it, it will take its time tho
Think of all the tooth picks you can make with this!
@@MrBobWareham lack of imagination
@@17hmr243 yep
@@17hmr243 I can tell youve never used a real lathe, this tiny chinesium piece of aluminum extrusion is basically only good for very small things that dont need to be precise, that can be made out of softer\weaker materials at a very slow pace. In other words toothpicks. There are a million and one reason I can list as to why nobody should buy this lathe and why it would be better to use the money towards a down payment on actual lathe, and I can list them if youd like.
@@jeremiahbrown6456 biggest baddest thing in town hay. So where do i put this biggest baddest lathe of yours. Hobbies dont need the money your speaking of. Wetting your feet in a feild you dont know if you want like or need we not going to buy ur lathe. Thank god you cought me out living the lie never useing a lathe weight of my shoulders can u tell me my winning lotto numbers too sine you know all..? Its a toy that can teach an put out small parts and scratch an itch
Don't forget about golf tees!
Works great for carrying on my tool cart. Lots of little parts you need to replace on equipment that just need slight mods and you don't care to walk to the shop. Don't laugh at the toothpick maker till you see how accurate it really is.
As a 12 y/0 Indian kid who has been working on a miniature rocket engine for 3 years, I was sad when I realised that I have to buy that big piece of chunk, but your video gave me hope. Thanks❤❤
The wobbling on all the axis are free of charge.
I have a similar lathe but it's blue. It is worthless due to the out of round spindle.
When you have good tools, it brings out the skill of the craftsman for sure, hes made some great bits of kit
Brilliant!! I have two full size lathes but having a small one to use for in the truck working on locks would be indispensible.
Exellent music, photagraphing and illustration. Too many bla bla bla videos out there, learned more from this.
I like it very much. Well suited for crafts.
If you can produce what you require, without having to remove and return the work to the chuck, it’s quite a good tool.
One of the no no's is, never turn wood or MDF in a metal lath. The fine dust mixed with oi. can jam the lead screw and carriage way and is not easy to remove.
It is using protective bellows.
@@nelunicoara4483 I have been using metal lathes for over 50 years in my trade, so when it comes to turning material that creates a lot of dust, you have to exercise caution. Wood is for wood lathes and metal for metal lathes.
@@antonbrum5492 I am machinist from 1982 so i know what i'm saying
... I'd be shocked if this tinylathe actually had a lead screw ..
You can make some mighty fine number 2 pencils with this!
Wonder how long pot metal chuck jaws last, the scroll component endures high stress
But it would make a nice gift with a workbook to a kid to get them to try the craft and by the time the chuck breaks you'd know wether a real mini lathe is in order
25 seconds into and im thinking omg its soooo adorable!!!
I've always been on the fence on these, but this might actually work, especially because it looks like there's enough of a foundation for my own upgrades. I'd probably have to modify it anyway, since there are cases where I'd have to work on things up to 5cm in diameter and not just 2.
I have the older full plastic version of this.
This is part of a multi tool range and you can actually get addons and parts for it.
I have a heaver duty 4 jaw chuck for mine.
Its a great pencil sharpener and that’s its limit!
Is that from experience or just opinion?
Great fo a beginner trying to learn.
il punto di forza che ti fa scegliere un mini tornio, dovrebbe esere la prcisione, data da un eccellente costruzione, e dal passo ridotto della guida del carro e del bancale, che permettono avanzamenti centesimali. Dal gioco che si vede ad occhio nudo quando avanzi l'utensile verso il pezzo, dal rallentare del mandrino quando tornisci, e dal fatto che il tutto sembra alluminio e plastica anzichè acciaio temprato e rettificato. Da tutto questo, mi sento di dire che quei pochi soldi che costa, sono buttati.
Il video, come tutti i tuoi video, è girato in maniera egregia, come anche la scelta della musica da un senso di eleganza e raffinatezza all'insieme.
PS l'interruttore a peretta è inguardabile
Yea good luck getting a good one from what I heard every 1 of those that come out of the factory working good you have 100 that come out crooked and working like like crap.
i have similar lathe from thecooltool.
i made many things on it for car, rc airplane model, bicycle, water valve...
good things are:
small , light, it can be carried in 1 or 2 suitcases, depends how many accessories you have, it is good for soft materials: wood, al, brass-you can go with 0.1-0.15mm deep cut.
bad things are:
electric motor has fixed speed and it rotates too fast and it is weak and it died very soon, it is better to install pwm to be able to control rpm and stronger motor from 12v car air compressor.
it seams this chuck is made from al same as on mine, and it always loosen and i tried to fix it with more force and then teeth broke, so i had to buy chuck from sherline-very good thing, steel chuck., main bearings get loose very soon but it is better to make some adapter to be able to adjust pre load on main bearings that can prevent it from often bearing change.
very soon will be worn brass nut that is below longitudinal moving table, and is better to buy m6 left thread tap/die
to mill iron is very hard only mild steel with 0.05mm deep cut and very slow movement of knife.
you need much more accessories to be able to do almost everything, i spent 2500 euros to have all, now i have proxxon pd250 because i had to mill inox.
for undemanding requests and for not too often use it is good
這是我看過最小的車床，加工能力相當出色！很適合空間有限的加工環境！
Greetings. For all those who want a review I comment you that I have the 10-in-1 model of the same brand, and I can tell you with certainty that it is a good machine to work on small projects.
The only thing they need to be careful about is giving it constant cleaning, lubrication and calibration as its modular design allows a lot of dirt to accumulate, and decalibration can occur frequently. (It is good to always check before each project, or even once a day if they use it very frequently and need very exact precision).
It is true that the price can be somewhat expensive compared to other similar offers, but the grace would be in the high compatibility of its parts, so the ideal is always to opt for a pack that is more than 1 single machine, or simply be disposed to expand the kit in the future.
I have even made mixes that do not make much sense, that you would not find in the market, but that have helped me in very particular projects. So without a doubt I can recommend it as a good complement for the workshop, to work * on a small scale *
Hi Stgo, you seem to know something. One like this would help me a lot for my hobby projects. Tell me whether this is a high precision machine. I felt that this one wobbles while rotating. Even the slider did not seem to be steady while adjusting. Thanks.
@@brijlal973 Yeah, I know your feeling, in this video that is a basic configuration, but with more parts you can make more precision. Some of the large and middle blocks have long threads with beds to acoplate more parts, that beds have teflon sliders that can be calibrated an stabilazed, that let it very precise.
Only I forget to mention 1 thing: I made it a customization to the power source. The machine doesnt have an speed regulator to reduce the RPM, but in aliexpress is easy find one very cheap. I bought one and all the precision can be support when there is no excess of rpm.
Of course will be better if the change of rpm were for a gear box, but for such small things, so much torque is never generated that a dimmer that regulates the current is not enough.
@@brijlal973 Indeed there is excessive game and more important than that due only to the pitch of the threaded rod. I drilled and tapped graduated lever to put a locking screw on the flat of the axle. It is necessary to catch up to make measurements. The residual game is approximately 3 graduations (0.12 mm)
Hello Stgo, I just received my 10 in 1 last week, seems to be a great mini tool, So I have a question, I am building the metal lathe so I have noticed that thr chuck has a "little"runout about .5 mm, so I wonder if there is a tweek in order to fix it or do I have to buy a better chuck?, thank you in advance and best regards from Mexico.
If only they sold a 4-jaw independent chuck for these things... It would alleviate some of the lack of 'precision' this machine most likely will have, even with fine tuning.
Even the mini-lathe that is one order of magnitude bigger than this one has issues with attaining the needed accuracy for precision work, but as they say, you get what you pay for.
The good news is that a machine like this can be upgraded to increase precision, torque/power, control and versatility, mainly with the headstock and powerplant which will need to be replaced with something that's actually precision machined, heavy, and solid, and by that I mean angular bearing mounts for both sides, a decent solid shaft for mounting the chuck, and a proper pulley or whatever powertrain can be utilized to run it, whether mini v-belt, chain or direct gear drive with a potential option for adding power feed and a decent quick change gearbox. Heck, 3d printed gears could work with that for this machine.
A decent DC motor far more powerful than that puny little thing would come after improving the headstock into a real one, albeit miniature. The motor can go with a PSU powering a PWM speed controller (make sure the motor is built to work with that) and a means to reverse rotation, whether electric or mechanical.
I don't think they make Morse tapers of the size that can fit for this machine, so one will have to find or make something to mount things like miniature drill chucks on that tailstock, among a few other things.
Finally, the body. Precision with any lathe requires solid rigidity. On such a small scale like this, one can use T H I C C extruded aluminum square beam or even solid block/cast aluminum for the bed and major components like the headstock, as well as increase the clearance for items turned on it. For instance, in it's current configuration, you can't turn a grinder rotor / armature on this thing to deburr/clean the commutator bars, but add one spacer block each side and it can be done. Which brings me to another note - if you buy something like this for some serious use case, buy two sets, or at least buy another one whose parts are compatible with it, like the 6-in-1 bundle that not only looks similar but uses the same extruded aluminum stock and binders. This exponentially multiplies the versatility of tiny machines like these.
You make this look so easy.
I guess I can make little brass bushings for my watchmaking hobby by using this
nice, but there seems to be a helluva lot of play on those handwheels
Indeed there is excessive game and more important than that due only to the pitch of the threaded rod. I drilled and tapped graduated lever to put a locking screw on the flat of the axle. It is necessary to catch up to make measurements. The residual game is approximately 3 graduations (0.12 mm)
Watch the spinning chuck closely, it wobbles. The most important part on a lathe is having a true precision chuck and spindle. Mine has an out of round spindle and when you clamp a perfectly round piece into the chuck, it wobbles, be aware. You can't get parts for this thing.
Nice demonstration. It would be nice if the vendors would put out specifications. Some of my questions were answered in the comments, but it would be nice to know if better chucks are available, replacement bearings, etc.
sherline is best, they have chucks with 12x1mm thread, bearings are standard
Wow nice bro😎😎😎 i like it 😁😁😁😁
This tiny machine has no tolerance at all.
The anti slip feet are a nice touch.
I'm astounded at how the author of the video boldly turns a bolt holding it by the thread as this is a little tricky and requiring a gentle touch even on a big lathe. I wonder if it means the chuck is so soft the bolt impressed grooves in it.
Also, to everyone asking about making threads on this - I can't see any gearing or lead screw, which means you can't sync up horizontal movement with the turning of the chuck. Which means no threads .
Anyhow, for a model maker, something like a Sherline would be a better investment than this, and in general, I think the smallest acceptable general-purpose lathe is something like a TOS MN 80.
you can make screws without automatic advance on the cutter
just requires skill and fast hand movement
@@jul371-y5p I've made quite a few threads, and this just doesn't pass the laugh test. Between the extremely even turning movement, the fact you'd have to find the groove *every* pass, and the elephant in the room which is the fact you'd have to somehow guess the turning speed to match the thread climb rate (where the differences in pitch between different threads are often like, 3 turns/inch) I don't believe you can do this by hand unless you are an android. Or, unless you use a die, but for those you don't need a lathe, do you.
@@VladimirE.-is2ee guess in inches is different, ive made threads in a lathe with locking the advance lateral/parallel movement to the thread i need, 1/1.25/1,5/2mm
and of course on a metric sized rod
with just my hands and locking the advance so doesnt mater how fast i move it always move on the desired distance
the only problem is being you slow like a turtle
and if you need a square thread just do the same with a square cutter
so guess imperial sytem is more about machine than skill
@@jul371-y5p No matter how many times I read this, I have trouble believing you can turn an accurate thread by hand/ without gearing, but of course, if you make it in a video and give a good show of both the thread profile and how it fits a counterpart, I'll upvote.
@@VladimirE.-is2ee can be done ive done it without the automatic advance/lateral movement of the cutter, ive done it with and oldschool lathe that was only manual adjusment, was dificult but not impossible, and takes more time than you would expect, but od lathes ive used had like a gearbox on the wheels/levers so doesnt matter how fast you spin it, if its set to advance 1mm L or R will just move that unless youre slow
but again, metric screws are easy af just joes 1 1,25 1,5 1,75 or 2mm of separation between threads
never worked with imperial sizes because theres not the standard
I wish to buy one of this. Because I need to learn to make screws.
Thanks for presentation of Mr. Daniela Tartaglia. I watched his many videos that excellent. For your questions in my opinion you can not produce screw using this lathe. Because this model has no automatic and adjustable sytems that necessary for screw making. Best regards.
@@sureyyaak5215 OK
it is incredible that it works
That's a cool little lathe, but I don't think I want to pay that much for it. It would a lot of fun though.
As usual it’s a DIY kit that, in its stock condition, quality and configuration, is only just barely able to do what it is made for… but at the very least, it can be improved. That will need a LOT more time and work, though. But a machine of this size is ideal for the folks who want to learn how to do the basics without too much danger, risk or expense.
I have one, as long as you are gentle and slower with cuts. it is a great lathe. I have made stainless inlay rings With mine. And am using it right now to make a 3.5 inch track live steam train. I highly suggest to get a motor control. It help with lathe greatly.
Primo!!
Stranamente lavoro già in officina con macchine industriali di questo genere...
I got one, and frankly speaking YES, it allows to do many things, but NOT well. These modules are practical, but it's difficult or impossible to get them to align the rotation axles properly. The clutch also is not well centered and its jaws do not hold the object you're working on properly, centered and straight. So if you just want to have fun, go ahead but avoid if you want to do clean and precision work.
Holding things centered is a basic and required functionality of lathes. Thanks, I'll pass.
@@doxielain2231 Dead right there, one of the first things you learn the hard way when training to use one is to centre the workpiece in the chuck with a little dial gauge first before any machining or else you only ruin it.
So what would it take to make a mini lathe that is quality? Could a craftsman use a janky lathe to make better parts to replace inadequate parts? Or maybe there are better parts for sale that you could upgrade with?
@@doxielain2231 if you can read chinese on the manual(1:12) ,you will find it's just a lathe for education,I think it will be enough for a child.
I suppose it depends on the definition of "precision". I doubt you would be chasing micrometers with a tool like this.
There are professional level tools available. Base price is going to be double what this model goes for. They can quickly jump up to thousands of dollars US.
this is perfect for pens
j hesitais a en acheter un , ton essai sur l acier m a convaincu, MERCI ^pour la video
what material is the chassis made of?...is it accurate?...can major improvements be made?
Nooo Daniele ma tu sei Mostruoso!!!!
Ok non avevo ancora aperto il video😂😂
How much it costs?
Price
I remember this is also available as a convertible mill/lathe combo I guess they didn't provide you the mill part for testing?
Not bad for 200 dollars
The chuck isnt very square, the work pieces jump up and down. It would be useless for boring anything that needed to be true.
Bonjour, Magnifique découverte que ce minitour ! Merci du partage ! Il me semble que la "poupée" (?) ne soit pas bien axée ? Mais pour satisfaire ma passion qui est le ferromodélisme, et la construction de matériel, ce tour et une fraiseuse du même acabit feront mon bonheur ! Quel bonheur de s'être rencontré sur RUclips.... Que de choses ai je encore à apprendre, même à soixante et onze ans ? Merci et bonnes continuations. De biens cordiales civilités Patrick (France)
on dirait un unimat1 en 3 fois moins cher
Mile grazie Daniele. Per tu lavor grazie
Woow! Super! Bruta! 👍
Класний станок!!!Не гірше мойого!!!
Ti conviene usare un arpiratore/aspirapolvere dedicato solo al micro tornio, almeno per i pezzi non metallici.
Nice! U can do extruder parts and nozzles for 3d printers or vape tanks and mods...
That is just too cool. It's on my list for sure.
I would not use metal , as i had the more powerful 60w version with a variable speed upgrade
and when cutting metal the 3 Jaw chuck broke in half and also you will burn out the little 24w motor.
These little lathes are great for the small toy making stuff,
so spend an extra £150 more and get a metal working lathe,
if your into very small machining.
What lathe would you recommend?
Which one you refer? I haven't seen any with variable speed motor
@@Xonkykong i cant recommend any lathe really as i have on had 4 lathes in my life.
if your from the UK ,
Then i can say the Clark CL300 is very good for the price as it is made of high standards compared to cheaper imports that boast about more power but you end up rebuilding it to get it to be good.
as plenty of vids on RUclips showing about the problems with Chinese imports that has gone through no quality control.
CL300 Clarke lathes are made in china but they have to be made correct and function to Clarks High spec
as they have there reputation to keep up so hence the higher price, and that is why most hobby modelers buy them.
If your in the market of buying a small lathe then watch many RUclips vids and weigh up the option.
The size you need and the type of metal your going to machine and of course the price factor
All i can say is , in the 30+ years of metal working, Don't buy cheap or you will spend a lot of time upgrading and costing you a lot more or selling it to buy a better one
@@denbrisko1978 I did have this one 60W High Power Mini Metal Lathe Soft Metalworking Woodworking DIY Model Making
and on the power cord it had a speed controller. well a voltage regulator to adjust the speed.
@@denbrisko1978 60W High Power Mini Metal Lathe Soft Metalworking Woodworking DIY Model Making
really ?
, i wasn`t think this thing can do messing or any of metallic materials, can you tell me what is the hardest material you can work with?
amazing for hobbies with small rc tools
Great video... Thanks 👍
What is the maximum diameter material you can use with is? I'm trying to find a mini lathe to regroove skate wheels.
work great for a toothpick business, cant see the point when you can get a 7x14 mini lathe for an extra $150
Is this very strong?
Very cute 😍
This would be really handy
very coool demonstration
What is the water that put on the metal when cutting? Thanks
It's cutting oil.
What will the chinese come up with next?! And the motor runs miles too fast, surely it can be slowed down with a suitable pulse width modulated speed control, and I've got one here somewhere. Or better still it should have a much slower motor, preferably with reduction gearing. I used to use the old fashioned manual lathes way back 40-odd years ago and I could still use one.
Everybody on the World
will need this mini lathe!!!
No they need an actual lathe, this is dust compared to even a medium sized lathe
super nice tool but limited to its cutting height, company needs to create the same design, but provide shims to raise the motor and tail another 50mm or so
Hey,best inspiration and ideas from daniele.thanks
I would like to start making small nutcrackers. I do not have too much money. Is this lathe useful for making nutcracker parts? (body, arms, legs etc)
what types of metal can this work, ive debated on picking one up an only reason i haven't is u can pick up one of the 7x14 lathes for just a bit more so ive held off buying one of these to get the bigger one but ive also seen them like this one that is setup so u can change it from the lathe to a mill an a few other tools but what really interests me is the lathe an mill part of the 6 in mini lathe. i can pick up a mill or a lathe that ive been looking at both for $450 each so id end up only being able to get one at a time an would be some time in between but if the little 6 in 1 mini lathe an mill are something that can work aluminum it would be perfect for me to get to learn with but my biggest worry with doing something like that is i would end up wanting to work with steel an i know for sure the other 2 machines are able to but i have very serious doubts that these 60w machines would be able to do much with steel so part of me just wants to get the 7x14 mini lathe an the proxxon mill. would love to know someones who has owned one of these an worked with it, what materials was u able to work with an what materials are u not able to work with on it. thanks for the video, at some point i'll end up picking one of these up just for the size even after ive gotten the tools i want just cause this is to cool of a tool not to have.
Nice video, I have ordered one. I wonder if it is possible to place a drill bit in the center holder chuck? That will be very handy to drill a precise center point or a centered hole into a workpiece.
Let me know if your lathe has an out of round spindle, causing everything to wobble like mind does, it's actually worthless.
Can you create an external thread with this?
So for resin and some balsa wood it's good enough?
Can mini lathe make a guitar tuner? Maybe with 30:1 gear ratio?
Thats a nice little tool the only flaw I see is you can only turn wood under 2 inches in diameter! If the center's and cutting tool would raise up for larger diameter it would be perfect for wooden toy wheels other than that I'd be interested!
You can actually buy very similar models that are raised up. They're rear and cost a bit more but I have seen them on ebay.
Hello, is it possible to install a 20mm cylinder in the head?
How many millimeters can be installed there because I saw that you put 8-9 mm and I need 20mm in the header.
Will it be suitable for 20 mm? Thanks for your reply ✌️
Thanks for sharing. I need this :D
when simple things like revolving handles are made well. You know the unit has been designed quite good
hey. What is the max width this mini lathe can handle? I need to work with 50mm diameter material
sliding paws on chuck can be reversed to catch from outside, i worked on 70mm wheels
funny toy for home works
Excellent
Is there a hole at the back of the chuck? I mean can i put something long in there? Like 20 inches long of wood with a 15mm diameter
Un tempera ✏ un po costoso..
Ma con po (un bel po!) Di "aggiornamenti fatti da te..forse può essere utile.
Ciao Genio..👍💪🙋♂️
Hola....que tal....muy bueno el video....quiero saber como se llama el tema al final del video, que es cantado por una mujer.....
Can you do watch parts repair? Mostly .03 mm pivots..
Daniele, metti una brugola per la staffa di fissaggio utensile 😜
se hai bisogno, ho fatto per diversi anni il tornitore su CNC
Can it drill a center hole in steel tube?
Possible in india????
Does it come with adapters for US outlets?
Molto bene grazie , Evitaeterna.--
Can the tail stock be adapted to take a drill?
#1~#3 ~ COST? COST? COST?
#4. Purchase site (if COST is somewhat reasonable)
#5. Can it cut very fine threads in metal???
either that dowel was really bent or the tailstock centre is way off centre
screw threading?
does it work with stainless steel?
It would shake like Levis on stage.