I just watched the video about your ECN-2 homemade kit and now must revise what I said earlier - the blue color was probably created when the potassium ferricyanide in your bleach interacted with iron in the metal reels, creating prussian blue pigment. Also, the yellow filter layer is normally removed by the bleach, but since much of your bleach was changed into pigment, that layer probably was not removed. Maybe that is the yellow cast to the film? This might be avoided by switching to an ammonium bleach (UL bleach) without ferricyanide. I think, with a few changes, this tank and process will work! Good job!
Honestly, the hardest part about doing ECN-2 in these tanks (aside from figuring out the correct times), is removing the remjet. It's so much easier in a Lomo style tank.
"The results arn't perfect," I think that they are beautiful. especially the last shot of your daughter on the swing with the off colors and white scratches. Fits the mood very well. Amazing work!
That film turned out 100 times better than I expected. I love the grain, contrast, water spots, that tells the viewer this is hand-made in every sense. This is film struggling to be born and live. Ha, sorry, but I will be trying this again. My morse tank needs another go round. I've been at the gym with arm workouts top of the list. Cheers, Chuck
Thanks so much, George!! I really wish Ektachrome 100D wasn't so expensive, I'd love to try some E-6 in this tank. The biggest issue I believe is the remjet, it makes developing in this tank so much harder.
Hello , nice video . Why don't you hook up the cranks on top of your tank onto a worm-wheel that is driven by a small electrical motor . Then you don't have to hand wind anymore and loose time and effort . Maybe a contant steerable electric command of winding the cranks gives the emulsion a more constant outcome . Also , rig up your whole tank assembly on a kipper above the sink with a feeding tube and funnel on top . More easy to pour in your fluids , and then drain them by kipping above the sink . Erwin .
Thank you, Erwin! While that sounds relatively simple in theory, there's a lot more to it than just adding a motor. I've definitely looked into it, just a lot more work than I have time for right now.
Thank you for doing this! Very informative. I am doing little bit of developing with my Morse G3, BW stuff, like twice a year... Very inspiring to do more when I see your results! Will definitely try ECN-2 next time.
Thanks for the Morse and ECN-2 experiments. I agree with you on the fun of DIY developing. I have never had much luck at all home processing ECN-2 and normally save it for the lab. Keep it up with the informative content. Now I have to go and dig my old Morse tank out and dust it off.
Thanks, Cecil!! You know, I really do kind of like B&W better than color in most situations. I've shot more B&W 35mm still film in the last 10 years than color. Just something about it. Dig that tank out, I really did like the results I got with my Tri-X. A lot of work but, as you well know, whatever it takes ;)
@@Filmboy24 I actually have a roll of Super 8 100D Ektachrome on the way back from Dwayne's right now. I also have a roll of Regular 8 500T doing the rounds at FPP right now. I have more color film (in both formats) in the refrigerator as well. I shot so much BW last year that I decided to splurge and do the holiday season in color. I prefer BW overall for a variety of reasons but nothing beats a roll of full color movie film when it all comes together. For me, I like the nostalgia BW offers, and I also think it is just easier to deal with all the way around including cost. For some reason I don't mind making mistakes with BW but I like for the color to look nice. An affordable scanner, and an affordable automatic processing tank or machine is my dream. Maybe with enough interest that could become a real possibility.
@@cecildeville6950 I'd love to see how your color films turn out, pretty exciting!! Can you imagine the possibilities if there was an affordable film processor out there? Especially one that could handle 400' rolls. Oh, I'll dream right along with you :)
Hi Mike! I have seen a somewhat x-file development with that bright result on one side and blue on the other, but the scan you did on the creative plane seemed SUPERNATURAL to me, with colors that are not on this planet, and the Also very beautiful grain, the result together with the music gave it a beautiful dreamlike air. CONGRATULATIONS on your hobby and your holy patience in the process..I LOVE IT
Thanks so much, Kike!! In an odd kind of way, I do like the result but it has to be taken for what it is. One of these days I need to do a music collage with all of my processing blunders, LOL.
Hello my friend, i am from Perú (Machupicchu, ceviche and all of those stuff). I know what happen in the process, it happened to me. I used a lomo tank and followed all the process and it had a golden emulsión and a black/grey base. But with chemicals from QWD it didn't happen. So, i make a test with white light and with film so i sumerged in each chemical (QWD and Homebrew) with exacting time, all was perfect the emulsión reacted in the same way, when i arrive to the fixer the film from QWD transparency appears but on Homebrew put Golden, so the fixer was the problem. I dont know if is a ph problem or perhaps because the bottle was white. But i used the Kodak ECN2 fórmula. I am still making test.
Hi Omar, thank you so much for the information!! I was kind of going crazy trying to figure out what happened. I've had that happen a couple other times and it's been a real mystery to me. I might try and do a home brew fixer also. Maybe something closer to what Kodak recommends for ECN-2. Thanks again!!
Mike, thank you for a great Morse tank video. And your results were really quite beautiful - others commented on how beautiful the grain was, and I must agree. I've never seen that kind of structure on 16mm before. I just got a Morse tank to try out some black and white developing and was starting to consider color as well, but I think I'll hold off for a 100' Lomo-style tank instead. Have you made a video about your ECN-2 recipe? I've been looking for one that's not quite as complicated as the kodak spec, but haven't really found anything online other than the CineStill simplified ECN-2 process, which I look forward to trying out. Thank you for all these wonderful filmic experiences; you've really helped encourage me to home-process once again.
Thanks so much, Daniel!! I do agree wholeheartedly on the Lomo style tanks for color film, just so much easier. I do like the Morse for basic 16mm B&W negative, just no more remjet!! I haven't done any videos specific to the formulas I use, though I really should (adding to list now). I've used CineStill's cine simplified a few times and I think it works great but I will tell you (at least for me), my ECN-2 chemicals never keep well at all. I've stored C-41, mixed and used for over 6 months and it still worked fine. I'm lucky to get 2 weeks out of ECN-2 :(
@@Filmboy24 That's an interesting note about the ECN-2 chemicals not keeping for very long. I've found C-41 to last a while, too and B&W chemistry even longer. But the beauty of ECN-2 results just makes it so enticing. I look forward to a video on your ECN-2 formula - I think there's quite a few of us who enjoy your videos who would really like to see what you use and how you get the results you get. Now off to find a 100' Lomo style tank.
Here's the thing. I love this type of experimentation. It's like watching a scientist (well... since you are a horror fan, maybe you could become a mad scientist --- ahh..there's an idea for next Halloween). But the truth is nobody else is doing this stuff. It makes this channel great in my opinion. I just sold one of these tanks (Arkay model) -- sat in my house for 15 years and never touched it. As soon as I sell it you come out with all these cool videos of what you can do with one. Go figure.
Hehe, thanks so much, Chris!! I just love doing this stuff. If my crazy, jogged brain can think it, I'll try it! I've thought about picking up one of those Arkay tanks one of these days, I like thought of being able to do super 8 in one. I'm going to try another roll of 16mm B&W in my Morse, possibly tomorrow, so wish me luck 😅
Another great job Mike. Colors came out incredibly saturated which isn’t what I expected 🙂. Color still film in my old Jobo processor always came out great. Too bad the movie film tank costs about $8,000 not counting the processor itself.
Thank you, Dave!! I'm actually quite surprised at what I got, based on how bad the overall process went 🤣. I really with there was an affordable cine film processor option. I'd love to develop even a basic semi-manual setup with 4 tanks with temperature controls in them that film is pulled through. I did see a setup a guy was working on (he even has a 3D printing parts list available) using long PVC tubes but he just sort of gave up on it 😥. Ok, back to the drawing board!!
Had to re-watch this before going through with a morse tank test 😅 one thing, the remjet removal looked really clear on the scan is that right? The grain on the scan didn't look attributable to remjet - maybe this is a good remjet removal step?
I just pop the reel out and hang the film on my drying hooks (film hangs in lengths from the ceiling). I've show this on a few other videos. As far as scanning, I do all of my own on my MovieStuff RetroScan 2K scanner.
Hello Mike, very nice video and nice result. I have a question, which chemical do you use for bleach? Because I have problem with Potassium Permanganate which "eats" the film emulsion. Emulsion is very soft ans I can smash it out with my finger. The best bleach (which I tried) is pottasium dichromate but I can not get it easily and it is dangerous... Thank you and I wish you many success!
Thank you, Ruprd! For ECN-2 processing, I make my own bleach using Potassium Ferricyanide (40 grams for 1 liter), Potassium Bromide (32 grams for 1 liter) and water.
Mike, you've convinced me to stay away from the Morse Tank. The lomo tank makes more sense to me. I also think remjet requires a lot of washing up front. I've seen other RUclips videos that say pour it in, shake for about 15 seconds, dump and rinse a couple of times. I think that shaking needs to go on a lot longer in the tank and the rinse dumping needs to be done a lot more than a couple of times. What do you think?
You know, Frank, I think I'm also going to stay away from the Morse in any color situations from now on. Just too much work. I definitely agree that the remjet layer should be thoroughly washed until you see no trace, which I found to be extremely difficult in this tank. It's tough to get any real agitation. My Lomo method usually never fails me. Honestly, I don't think these Morse tanks were ever meant for color film, though there is a blurb in the manual about the remjet layer.
Somewhere I watch the video I thought it was yours, where the person showing how to develop it basically just rinsed it off under hot water after the processing was done right before drying... Am I wrong?
@@bootmenow Yes, I do that at the end of all my processing steps but I always get as much as I can off as a first step. I essentially fill my Lomo tank with my remjet removal bath (first step), agitate briefly, the pour. Then fill with water and agitate like crazy, this pour is generally where most of the remjet will come out. After a couple more rinses, the water usually comes out clear, then I process as normal and remove any residual remjet under running water at the end.
Hi Mike, watching this now, saw the flickering at the first clip, then the logo came up and now no flicker. I'm wondering if this has something to do with codecs do you do all your codecs the same way? Thanks for the video, I bid on one of these the other day, didn't get it.
Hmmm, yes, I always render the same way. I did change cameras a couple months ago and I also shoot at 24 FPS 4K now, rather than 30 FPS. I wonder if that might be contributing to the flicker. I started doing it because I post so much film with my videos, often also shot at 24 FPS. Keep looking, you'll get one of these tanks. They really are fun, just very laborious.
@@Filmboy24 I'm not sure now that the flicker isn't in my TV. I see it now when I start a stream. Probably some flaw in the electronics. Sorry if I misdirected you... just wanted to make sure you didn't have a problem.
Mike, depending on the age of your film do you increase developing time by decade. What I mean is 3 minutes per decade? Very strong contrast, I'm not a developer so does contrast increase or decrease when you extend the development time? Great reds, Crotons turned out well too just needed a little less shadow. All in all I think it was a success but a lot of effort
Thanks, Barry!! I have always really only pushed or pulled processing in B&W, and typically when I knew I over or under exposed it during shooting. As far as the age of the film, I will typically compensate while shooting, rather than processing, though the latter is possible to some degree. Funny thing, is, I've processed a lot of ECN-2 (home brew and CineStill) and not once have my negatives ever been very dense. They've always been quite thin, which is relatively normal. With this particular attempt, the negative is actually quite dense, with a semi-glossy emulsion and blue base 🤣, really weird. I suppose I could have pushed it a little but then again, I wasn't really sure about my times with this tank anyway. And, man is it a lot of work, lol.
@@Filmboy24 Mike, I just had a goofy thought(which is not unusual for me). You said one side of the film had a blue tint and the other was gold. What if it;s not gold but 85 orange. wouldn't they cancel each other out durring projection and digitizing? Maybe you've uncovered a way of changing daylight film to tungsten and vice versa just by the differnt chemicals used. The hard part is figuring which chemical does what durring the process. I'll leave that to you, I failed basic chemistry(LOL).
@@barrysteinlage6888 Whooooaaaa my friend, you're so far over my competency level with this theory, that my brain just reset 🤣🤣 Crazy thing is...you might just be right!!
That's a good question. I know it can be milky but not sure I've heard of it turning blue. I feel like it may have something to either do with cross contamination of chemicals or grossly over/under on one or more of the steps (ok, so I didn't really narrow it down at all, lol).
The film seems mighty grainy, and with the shiny surface, I wonder if it got enough bleaching. You might try bleaching and fixing in a bucket, as they don't need to be done in the dark. Both are done to completion, so you can't over bleach or over fix.
These tanks are definitely not made for ECN-2 processing, this was just a fun experiment. I regularly use a proper 100' spiral tank for most of my 100' processing.
I just watched the video about your ECN-2 homemade kit and now must revise what I said earlier - the blue color was probably created when the potassium ferricyanide in your bleach interacted with iron in the metal reels, creating prussian blue pigment. Also, the yellow filter layer is normally removed by the bleach, but since much of your bleach was changed into pigment, that layer probably was not removed. Maybe that is the yellow cast to the film? This might be avoided by switching to an ammonium bleach (UL bleach) without ferricyanide. I think, with a few changes, this tank and process will work! Good job!
Honestly, the hardest part about doing ECN-2 in these tanks (aside from figuring out the correct times), is removing the remjet. It's so much easier in a Lomo style tank.
Still the film, with the very moving music, was great! Very informative!
Thanks so much!!
"The results arn't perfect," I think that they are beautiful. especially the last shot of your daughter on the swing with the off colors and white scratches. Fits the mood very well. Amazing work!
Thanks so much, really appreciate it!!
That film turned out 100 times better than I expected. I love the grain, contrast, water spots, that tells the viewer this is hand-made in every sense. This is film struggling to be born and live. Ha, sorry, but I will be trying this again. My morse tank needs another go round. I've been at the gym with arm workouts top of the list. Cheers, Chuck
Thanks, Chuck!! I think that's what I love so much about processing at home, the look and feel of it.
You aren't kidding about an arm workout, 😂
That bleach looked suspiciously like Dichromate, but not when it drained. You should be proud of those results.
Thanks, Micheal!
Great first try. DON'T STOP!! Try a couple of more times. Maybe there is information on the internet. Great video and please keep it up. Thank you.
Thanks so much, George!! I really wish Ektachrome 100D wasn't so expensive, I'd love to try some E-6 in this tank. The biggest issue I believe is the remjet, it makes developing in this tank so much harder.
I agree, quite beautiful. I know it's not lab perfect but I still love it. Thanks for a great video
Very beautiful film took me to some quite, remote place.
Thank you!!
Hello , nice video . Why don't you hook up the cranks on top of your tank onto a worm-wheel that is driven by a small electrical motor . Then you don't have to hand wind anymore and loose time and effort . Maybe a contant steerable electric command of winding the cranks gives the emulsion a more constant outcome . Also , rig up your whole tank assembly on a kipper above the sink with a feeding tube and funnel on top . More easy to pour in your fluids , and then drain them by kipping above the sink . Erwin .
Thank you, Erwin!
While that sounds relatively simple in theory, there's a lot more to it than just adding a motor. I've definitely looked into it, just a lot more work than I have time for right now.
Love the water bath on the sink with the Sous Vide Stick Cooker... I was thinking about doing almost exactly that
Thanks, it works pretty well holding a nice, even temperature.
Thank you for doing this! Very informative. I am doing little bit of developing with my Morse G3, BW stuff, like twice a year... Very inspiring to do more when I see your results! Will definitely try ECN-2 next time.
Thank you Yves! Best of luck on your ECN-2 adventures!!
Thanks for the Morse and ECN-2 experiments. I agree with you on the fun of DIY developing. I have never had much luck at all home processing ECN-2 and normally save it for the lab. Keep it up with the informative content. Now I have to go and dig my old Morse tank out and dust it off.
Thanks, Cecil!! You know, I really do kind of like B&W better than color in most situations. I've shot more B&W 35mm still film in the last 10 years than color. Just something about it.
Dig that tank out, I really did like the results I got with my Tri-X. A lot of work but, as you well know, whatever it takes ;)
@@Filmboy24 I actually have a roll of Super 8 100D Ektachrome on the way back from Dwayne's right now. I also have a roll of Regular 8 500T doing the rounds at FPP right now. I have more color film (in both formats) in the refrigerator as well.
I shot so much BW last year that I decided to splurge and do the holiday season in color. I prefer BW overall for a variety of reasons but nothing beats a roll of full color movie film when it all comes together. For me, I like the nostalgia BW offers, and I also think it is just easier to deal with all the way around including cost. For some reason I don't mind making mistakes with BW but I like for the color to look nice.
An affordable scanner, and an affordable automatic processing tank or machine is my dream. Maybe with enough interest that could become a real possibility.
@@cecildeville6950 I'd love to see how your color films turn out, pretty exciting!! Can you imagine the possibilities if there was an affordable film processor out there? Especially one that could handle 400' rolls. Oh, I'll dream right along with you :)
Hi Mike! I have seen a somewhat x-file development with that bright result on one side and blue on the other, but the scan you did on the creative plane seemed SUPERNATURAL to me, with colors that are not on this planet, and the Also very beautiful grain, the result together with the music gave it a beautiful dreamlike air. CONGRATULATIONS on your hobby and your holy patience in the process..I LOVE IT
Thanks so much, Kike!! In an odd kind of way, I do like the result but it has to be taken for what it is. One of these days I need to do a music collage with all of my processing blunders, LOL.
Beautiful colours!
Thank you!!
Love your videos mate hard to find many videos of people experimenting with different ways to develope 16 and 8mm film keep up the good work!
Thanks so much, I appreciate it!!
Hello my friend, i am from Perú (Machupicchu, ceviche and all of those stuff). I know what happen in the process, it happened to me. I used a lomo tank and followed all the process and it had a golden emulsión and a black/grey base. But with chemicals from QWD it didn't happen. So, i make a test with white light and with film so i sumerged in each chemical (QWD and Homebrew) with exacting time, all was perfect the emulsión reacted in the same way, when i arrive to the fixer the film from QWD transparency appears but on Homebrew put Golden, so the fixer was the problem. I dont know if is a ph problem or perhaps because the bottle was white. But i used the Kodak ECN2 fórmula. I am still making test.
Hi Omar, thank you so much for the information!! I was kind of going crazy trying to figure out what happened. I've had that happen a couple other times and it's been a real mystery to me. I might try and do a home brew fixer also. Maybe something closer to what Kodak recommends for ECN-2. Thanks again!!
Mike, thank you for a great Morse tank video. And your results were really quite beautiful - others commented on how beautiful the grain was, and I must agree. I've never seen that kind of structure on 16mm before. I just got a Morse tank to try out some black and white developing and was starting to consider color as well, but I think I'll hold off for a 100' Lomo-style tank instead. Have you made a video about your ECN-2 recipe? I've been looking for one that's not quite as complicated as the kodak spec, but haven't really found anything online other than the CineStill simplified ECN-2 process, which I look forward to trying out. Thank you for all these wonderful filmic experiences; you've really helped encourage me to home-process once again.
Thanks so much, Daniel!!
I do agree wholeheartedly on the Lomo style tanks for color film, just so much easier. I do like the Morse for basic 16mm B&W negative, just no more remjet!!
I haven't done any videos specific to the formulas I use, though I really should (adding to list now). I've used CineStill's cine simplified a few times and I think it works great but I will tell you (at least for me), my ECN-2 chemicals never keep well at all. I've stored C-41, mixed and used for over 6 months and it still worked fine. I'm lucky to get 2 weeks out of ECN-2 :(
@@Filmboy24 That's an interesting note about the ECN-2 chemicals not keeping for very long. I've found C-41 to last a while, too and B&W chemistry even longer. But the beauty of ECN-2 results just makes it so enticing.
I look forward to a video on your ECN-2 formula - I think there's quite a few of us who enjoy your videos who would really like to see what you use and how you get the results you get.
Now off to find a 100' Lomo style tank.
@@dgstephens Yes, I too love the look of proper ECN-2 processed film, nothing quite like it. Thanks for your kind words!!
@@colinscotland2887 Thanks, I've seen that before, quite an interesting little project.
Here's the thing. I love this type of experimentation. It's like watching a scientist (well... since you are a horror fan, maybe you could become a mad scientist --- ahh..there's an idea for next Halloween). But the truth is nobody else is doing this stuff. It makes this channel great in my opinion. I just sold one of these tanks (Arkay model) -- sat in my house for 15 years and never touched it. As soon as I sell it you come out with all these cool videos of what you can do with one. Go figure.
Hehe, thanks so much, Chris!! I just love doing this stuff. If my crazy, jogged brain can think it, I'll try it! I've thought about picking up one of those Arkay tanks one of these days, I like thought of being able to do super 8 in one. I'm going to try another roll of 16mm B&W in my Morse, possibly tomorrow, so wish me luck 😅
Another great job Mike. Colors came out incredibly saturated which isn’t what I expected 🙂. Color still film in my old Jobo processor always came out great. Too bad the movie film tank costs about $8,000 not counting the processor itself.
Thank you, Dave!! I'm actually quite surprised at what I got, based on how bad the overall process went 🤣. I really with there was an affordable cine film processor option. I'd love to develop even a basic semi-manual setup with 4 tanks with temperature controls in them that film is pulled through. I did see a setup a guy was working on (he even has a 3D printing parts list available) using long PVC tubes but he just sort of gave up on it 😥. Ok, back to the drawing board!!
Outstanding effort Mike! Love your channel, keep up the content.
Thanks so much, really appreciate it!!
Super 16 is one heck of the format ! Is not it ? 👏
I must concur, it really is beautiful!!
Had to re-watch this before going through with a morse tank test 😅 one thing, the remjet removal looked really clear on the scan is that right? The grain on the scan didn't look attributable to remjet - maybe this is a good remjet removal step?
Yes, I was pretty happy overall with how the remjet came off in this tank. The grain definitely had to do with the processing and not the remjet.
I'd like to see how you take the film out of the tank and dry it! And don't you need a lab anyway to scan it?
I just pop the reel out and hang the film on my drying hooks (film hangs in lengths from the ceiling). I've show this on a few other videos. As far as scanning, I do all of my own on my MovieStuff RetroScan 2K scanner.
Hello Mike, very nice video and nice result. I have a question, which chemical do you use for bleach? Because I have problem with Potassium Permanganate which "eats" the film emulsion. Emulsion is very soft ans I can smash it out with my finger. The best bleach (which I tried) is pottasium dichromate but I can not get it easily and it is dangerous... Thank you and I wish you many success!
Thank you, Ruprd! For ECN-2 processing, I make my own bleach using Potassium Ferricyanide (40 grams for 1 liter), Potassium Bromide (32 grams for 1 liter) and water.
@@Filmboy24 Thank you very much I will try this bleach.
Mike, you've convinced me to stay away from the Morse Tank. The lomo tank makes more sense to me. I also think remjet requires a lot of washing up front. I've seen other RUclips videos that say pour it in, shake for about 15 seconds, dump and rinse a couple of times. I think that shaking needs to go on a lot longer in the tank and the rinse dumping needs to be done a lot more than a couple of times. What do you think?
You know, Frank, I think I'm also going to stay away from the Morse in any color situations from now on. Just too much work. I definitely agree that the remjet layer should be thoroughly washed until you see no trace, which I found to be extremely difficult in this tank. It's tough to get any real agitation. My Lomo method usually never fails me. Honestly, I don't think these Morse tanks were ever meant for color film, though there is a blurb in the manual about the remjet layer.
Somewhere I watch the video I thought it was yours, where the person showing how to develop it basically just rinsed it off under hot water after the processing was done right before drying... Am I wrong?
@@bootmenow Yes, I do that at the end of all my processing steps but I always get as much as I can off as a first step. I essentially fill my Lomo tank with my remjet removal bath (first step), agitate briefly, the pour. Then fill with water and agitate like crazy, this pour is generally where most of the remjet will come out. After a couple more rinses, the water usually comes out clear, then I process as normal and remove any residual remjet under running water at the end.
Hi Mike, watching this now, saw the flickering at the first clip, then the logo came up and now no flicker. I'm wondering if this has something to do with codecs do you do all your codecs the same way? Thanks for the video, I bid on one of these the other day, didn't get it.
Hmmm, yes, I always render the same way. I did change cameras a couple months ago and I also shoot at 24 FPS 4K now, rather than 30 FPS. I wonder if that might be contributing to the flicker. I started doing it because I post so much film with my videos, often also shot at 24 FPS.
Keep looking, you'll get one of these tanks. They really are fun, just very laborious.
@@Filmboy24 I'm not sure now that the flicker isn't in my TV. I see it now when I start a stream. Probably some flaw in the electronics. Sorry if I misdirected you... just wanted to make sure you didn't have a problem.
@@bootmenow No worries at all, I prefer it. Covering all the bases!!
Nice job again Miguel. You going pro soon?
Haha, no time soon! Thanks, Pop!
Mike, depending on the age of your film do you increase developing time by decade. What I mean is 3 minutes per decade? Very strong contrast, I'm not a developer so does contrast increase or decrease when you extend the development time? Great reds, Crotons turned out well too just needed a little less shadow. All in all I think it was a success but a lot of effort
Thanks, Barry!!
I have always really only pushed or pulled processing in B&W, and typically when I knew I over or under exposed it during shooting. As far as the age of the film, I will typically compensate while shooting, rather than processing, though the latter is possible to some degree. Funny thing, is, I've processed a lot of ECN-2 (home brew and CineStill) and not once have my negatives ever been very dense. They've always been quite thin, which is relatively normal. With this particular attempt, the negative is actually quite dense, with a semi-glossy emulsion and blue base 🤣, really weird. I suppose I could have pushed it a little but then again, I wasn't really sure about my times with this tank anyway. And, man is it a lot of work, lol.
@@Filmboy24 Mike, I just had a goofy thought(which is not unusual for me). You said one side of the film had a blue tint and the other was gold. What if it;s not gold but 85 orange. wouldn't they cancel each other out durring projection and digitizing? Maybe you've uncovered a way of changing daylight film to tungsten and vice versa just by the differnt chemicals used. The hard part is figuring which chemical does what durring the process. I'll leave that to you, I failed basic chemistry(LOL).
@@barrysteinlage6888 Whooooaaaa my friend, you're so far over my competency level with this theory, that my brain just reset 🤣🤣
Crazy thing is...you might just be right!!
Isn't milky blue a result of incomplete fixing? I wonder what would happen of you took a snip of that roll and re fixed/bleached it.
That's a good question. I know it can be milky but not sure I've heard of it turning blue. I feel like it may have something to either do with cross contamination of chemicals or grossly over/under on one or more of the steps (ok, so I didn't really narrow it down at all, lol).
The film seems mighty grainy, and with the shiny surface, I wonder if it got enough bleaching. You might try bleaching and fixing in a bucket, as they don't need to be done in the dark. Both are done to completion, so you can't over bleach or over fix.
These tanks are definitely not made for ECN-2 processing, this was just a fun experiment. I regularly use a proper 100' spiral tank for most of my 100' processing.
@@Filmboy24 Half the fun of photography is the experimenting. As long as disastrous experiments don't happen with important / expensive projects.
@@MarksPhoto Absolutely right!!