Got my mark V used in 1968 for $50 ! Upgraded along the way to a 510, but have had a persistent problem with the headstock sliding and binding on the way tubes. Wax never seemed to help for long. Then I saw your videos about tuning and calibrating the tubes. I got lucky and didn't have to remove them completely because someone had drilled a hole in each tube near the left side. I just used that to store the Allen wrench all these years. However, it gave me a vertical orientation to start with. So I just loosened the Allen screws, and after sanding out the dents with 600 grit , rotating the back tube 180 degrees, and waxing (I still have half a tub of Johnson's paste wax) them, the headstock slides "almost" effortlessly. Wish I had known this years ago! Thanks Scott !!!
Really appreciated the "How to load" video when I was first getting my mark V. It was my introduction to you and all the great Shopsmith information available.
When I searched for Johnson paste wax I found I could get it at Walmart. If memory is right, I got two cans for the price of one that Amazon was charging. It was no longer available at the hardware store that I worked at but I managed to find a can in another Home Hardware in London. Now I’ve got three new cans and half an old can - thank you muchly I’ll be set for life.
To get my tubes polished I got a bar of red jewelers rouge, crushed it into powder and added it to a can of brasso, shake well and apply the mixture then buff. This is how we get our brass clean and shiney in the Marine Corps. Then applied Freeway, let dry then buffed. Headstock glides beautifully now. I also took the headstock off, cleaned and waxed the collars.
I've used Butchers Wax exclusively for the last 45+ years on all of my machine surfaces. Even aluminum tables on the jobsite table saw.I swear by it. As long as you spend the time to buff it you are good to go. Good video addressing the pros and cons of lubricants.
That's great insider information, Stephen. Thanks for sharing it. If it takes that much effort to buff it must be a hard wax. I'll give it a try. Scott
Always appreciate these "yapping episodes" as there are so many good questions I would never have thought of, but gain so much knowledge and understanding because someone did ask it, and you answered it. A big thanks from Texas!
Thank you, Scott. I hope that I don't have to buy new ways tubes, but if I do, it is nice to know about the stainless steel upgrade. You make my day great every time you put out a video. 😊
Great video. I used your video on loading the SS when I got mine. Worked great. A topic like this is liking asking what kind of car do you like. You are going to get a LOT of opinions. On my waxing, I have two cans of Johnson’s Paste Wax, one open and one in standby. I use an Ultra Fine Scotch Brite pad. I go along the tube but change the position of my hand as I go to get the entire surface.
Just a positive feedback to affirm the "wax in the rag" tip working for me - to apply a thin even film instead of the thick crusty ridges that take days to dry.
Very interesting. More than a few years ago I was given a Shopsmith. The headstock and carriage would not slide easily. I watched a Shopsmith video with Nick Engler. He mentioned a set screw in the tie bar, adjusted properly would take some of the twist out or add allowing the headstock to move much more easily. I located it and sure enough, adjusting the screw worked. Perhaps that might be mentioned? That said, I found you produced another!! very well done, informative video. 👍👍
That’s actually one of the first things I cover in the video I mentioned titled something like “Before you turn on your shopsmith”. It’s a very important tip! Scott
Scott, another great follow up video! You mentioned several alternatives to Johnson's paste wax. Have you considered trying Nick Engler's recipes and make your own? His mixture includes Carnuba, Bees, microcrystalline and paraffin waxes dissolved in either turpentine, mineral spirits or mineral oil(which you won't like). They can be used either for applying to wood or the Shopsmith. He also adds camphor to wax intended for only tools. I mixed up some using either mineral oil or turpentine as the solvent and have been using them for over a year now. I've found the paste wax with mineral oil is softer and easier to apply and can be easily applied using your method. The paste wax made using turpentine is more solid and harder to apply since the turpentine tends to evaporate with time. The end result as far as lubricating the machine surfaces and tubes seems to be as good as the original Johnson's paste wax.
@@jamespowell7196 Jim, I would love to play around with Nick’s “Special Recipe”, and still have that sample you sent, somewhere in the shop. I hate to admit that there are just some things that I’d rather just buy off the shelf so I can focus on other things that are of more interest to me, and cooking wax is one of those things.
This needs to stop! This can't become the paste wax channel! Seriously, thanks for mentioning this. Do you use it and what's been your experience? Scott
great as always...remodeled one machine to do copper spinning...if your familar..(otherwise northwest spinning has a great facebook page) ..the process pushes the cooper over a form on the headstock...much more force than ever will be in lathe work..have no problem with headstock slippage...beefed up the tailstock structure to keep it from deflecting...
@@MyGrowthRings Once or twice. Even my grandfather did it to me. Although the scolding he got from my grandmother was sufficient to keep him from ever doing it again.
I would argue that most lubricants don't attract dust, they accumulate contaminants. A lubricant whose surface remains soft or even liquid will accumulate dust faster than a hard surface but both will accumulate contaminants over time. The ease at which the old lubricant can be removed and reapplied is probably more important. The other consideration is cross contamination with the project material and the effect it has. That's the main reason for not recommending silicon based lubricants, they have noticeable negative effects on wood finishes and glue joints even though as a lubricant they are great. I still use the can of wax that came with my Shopsmith, the salesman called it Oil of Olay for machines. ;-)
I’m curious if the nano- product was corrosionx. One of the comments mentioned it for used on their table saw or something and I checked it out. They claim that it doesn’t attract dust, but we shall see. I added it to my clamps to help prevent wood glue from sticking and it started penetrating through the glue smear buildup, but so far it hasn’t worked itself under the glue drips caught in the knurled surface of my parallel clamps. It seems to be fantastic for lubrication, but long term effects I cannot say.
@@alberttreado3713 Sorry, I guess that was an incomplete thought! I meant to say, after talking about the new Stainless Steel tubes that if you need a replacement set you might want to upgrade to the Stainless Steel ones.
At the very end, did the next handle on your 3-handle quill smack the back of your hand? If so, that would be an argument for the one handle quill. Just sayin'. Have a good day, Scott.
@@mikeking7470 No, it was a single handle lever. I loosened the quill lock and the quill did not snap back, and I remembered that I was using the depth stop to keep the quill out. When I loosened it, I forgot about that stupid lever, but it reminded me of itself very quickly!
When tightening your headstock lock, my handle ends up in the same place as yours, pointing directly at the speed dial. Do you find that annoying like I do? When using the speed dial I'm constantly pinching or hitting my fingers on the lock handle as I rotate the speed dial.
I am not sure why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel. A carnuba based floor paste wax is all that SS has ever supplied with the MK series tools. It was Johnson's in the beginning. I don't know when or why SS changed from Johnson's but the help kit I got with my new 510 in 1994 had Trewax in it. I still have half a can. The current help kit contains Minwax paste wax. These three waxes have worked just fine for 70 years. The fact that Johnson's is no longer available is not the end of the world. Just buy a can of Trewax or Minwax and don't worry about it.
Yeah, That's what I did, I settled on the Tread, from what I could see it had a very similar composition as Johnson's Paste wax, but with carnauba wax added, which is a good wax.
Hey Walt, I don't use it because I've never heard of it. Do you use it? It's interesting that the MSDS discloses that it contains mica and silica. I've seen mica being used as an anti-seize, but when silica is used as a lubricant it is usually blended with a base oil. Do you know what the base carrier it uses? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I believe they use kerosine. I have used Waxilit as a glue resist when glueing up joints, it may be cleaned with alcohol. It's easy to apply however it requires careful clean up. It's a good product, I am surprised you haven't heard of it, been around a long time.
Got my mark V used in 1968 for $50 ! Upgraded along the way to a 510, but have had a persistent problem with the headstock sliding and binding on the way tubes. Wax never seemed to help for long. Then I saw your videos about tuning and calibrating the tubes. I got lucky and didn't have to remove them completely because someone had drilled a hole in each tube near the left side. I just used that to store the Allen wrench all these years. However, it gave me a vertical orientation to start with. So I just loosened the Allen screws, and after sanding out the dents with 600 grit , rotating the back tube 180 degrees, and waxing (I still have half a tub of Johnson's paste wax) them, the headstock slides "almost" effortlessly. Wish I had known this years ago! Thanks Scott !!!
Now that's a good prize!
Really appreciated the "How to load" video when I was first getting my mark V. It was my introduction to you and all the great Shopsmith information available.
Happy to hear that. Thanks for sticking around!
When I searched for Johnson paste wax I found I could get it at Walmart. If memory is right, I got two cans for the price of one that Amazon was charging. It was no longer available at the hardware store that I worked at but I managed to find a can in another Home Hardware in London. Now I’ve got three new cans and half an old can - thank you muchly I’ll be set for life.
Brought back memories of my dad and I both using Wildroot!
With soothing lanolin!
To get my tubes polished I got a bar of red jewelers rouge, crushed it into powder and added it to a can of brasso, shake well and apply the mixture then buff. This is how we get our brass clean and shiney in the Marine Corps. Then applied Freeway, let dry then buffed. Headstock glides beautifully now. I also took the headstock off, cleaned and waxed the collars.
That would do it!
I've used Butchers Wax exclusively for the last 45+ years on all of my machine surfaces. Even aluminum tables on the jobsite table saw.I swear by it. As long as you spend the time to buff it you are good to go. Good video addressing the pros and cons of lubricants.
That's great insider information, Stephen. Thanks for sharing it. If it takes that much effort to buff it must be a hard wax. I'll give it a try. Scott
@@MyGrowthRings It really doesn't take that much effort. I said that for the new people to make sure they were diligent about it
Always appreciate these "yapping episodes" as there are so many good questions I would never have thought of, but gain so much knowledge and understanding because someone did ask it, and you answered it. A big thanks from Texas!
When I go to estate sales, one of the items I look for is a can of Johnson paste wax. Thanks for another video.
You and me both! Great minds.
Highmark miss you and your son doing your tobacco lives
@@littlepipertodd8675 Thanks. Was that a “highmark”?
Thank you, Scott.
I hope that I don't have to buy new ways tubes, but if I do, it is nice to know about the stainless steel upgrade. You make my day great every time you put out a video. 😊
That’s really nice to hear. Thank you, Mark.
Great video.
I used your video on loading the SS when I got mine. Worked great.
A topic like this is liking asking what kind of car do you like. You are going to get a LOT of opinions.
On my waxing, I have two cans of Johnson’s Paste Wax, one open and one in standby. I use an Ultra Fine Scotch Brite pad. I go along the tube but change the position of my hand as I go to get the entire surface.
@@drumaganger That’s a great approach, Jody. Yeah, the most important thing is that you have a plan and execute.
Just a positive feedback to affirm the "wax in the rag" tip working for me - to apply a thin even film instead of the thick crusty ridges that take days to dry.
Very interesting.
More than a few years ago I was given a Shopsmith. The headstock and carriage would not slide easily. I watched a Shopsmith video with Nick Engler. He mentioned a set screw in the tie bar, adjusted properly would take some of the twist out or add allowing the headstock to move much more easily. I located it and sure enough, adjusting the screw worked. Perhaps that might be mentioned?
That said, I found you produced another!! very well done, informative video. 👍👍
That’s actually one of the first things I cover in the video I mentioned titled something like “Before you turn on your shopsmith”. It’s a very important tip! Scott
A lot of insight that I never knew about. I appreciate your keeping an open mind to other waxes/ideas!
@@stased7343 Thanks! We all should be adding “Growth Rings” to our brains, and I love learning new tricks.
Great video. Thank you.
@@joz_tec Thanks for watching and commenting!
Scott, another great follow up video! You mentioned several alternatives to Johnson's paste wax. Have you considered trying Nick Engler's recipes and make your own? His mixture includes Carnuba, Bees, microcrystalline and paraffin waxes dissolved in either turpentine, mineral spirits or mineral oil(which you won't like). They can be used either for applying to wood or the Shopsmith. He also adds camphor to wax intended for only tools.
I mixed up some using either mineral oil or turpentine as the solvent and have been using them for over a year now. I've found the paste wax with mineral oil is softer and easier to apply and can be easily applied using your method. The paste wax made using turpentine is more solid and harder to apply since the turpentine tends to evaporate with time. The end result as far as lubricating the machine surfaces and tubes seems to be as good as the original Johnson's paste wax.
@@jamespowell7196 Jim, I would love to play around with Nick’s “Special Recipe”, and still have that sample you sent, somewhere in the shop. I hate to admit that there are just some things that I’d rather just buy off the shelf so I can focus on other things that are of more interest to me, and cooking wax is one of those things.
You missed the best choice (imo) Collinite Insulator Wax or their paste wax. It does contain carnuba.
This needs to stop! This can't become the paste wax channel! Seriously, thanks for mentioning this. Do you use it and what's been your experience? Scott
@MyGrowthRings I've used it for years on various different things. Including, but not limited to cars. I don't have a shopsmith though.
@@823Steve We should fix that.
great as always...remodeled one machine to do copper spinning...if your familar..(otherwise northwest spinning has a great facebook page) ..the process pushes the cooper over a form on the headstock...much more force than ever will be in lathe work..have no problem with headstock slippage...beefed up the tailstock structure to keep it from deflecting...
@@tonyvolbeda952 Nice! That’s something that I’ve only ever tried once, but it was fun and scary at the same time.
@@MyGrowthRings was the hardest skill i learned
Thanks Scott
As soon as I heard you mention WD40 I knew what you would say.
Troy
Fellow clock guy
@@horologist2233 So it’s happened to you too?
@@MyGrowthRings Once or twice. Even my grandfather did it to me. Although the scolding he got from my grandmother was sufficient to keep him from ever doing it again.
@@horologist2233 Ha!
Hi Scott!
Привет
CVS vitamin Gummies have Caranuba wax in them 😂
TO be more accurate the carnauba is ON them, but after you eat them it would be IN you!
I would argue that most lubricants don't attract dust, they accumulate contaminants. A lubricant whose surface remains soft or even liquid will accumulate dust faster than a hard surface but both will accumulate contaminants over time. The ease at which the old lubricant can be removed and reapplied is probably more important. The other consideration is cross contamination with the project material and the effect it has. That's the main reason for not recommending silicon based lubricants, they have noticeable negative effects on wood finishes and glue joints even though as a lubricant they are great.
I still use the can of wax that came with my Shopsmith, the salesman called it Oil of Olay for machines. ;-)
@@frankenberry9670 Well said.
I’m curious if the nano- product was corrosionx. One of the comments mentioned it for used on their table saw or something and I checked it out. They claim that it doesn’t attract dust, but we shall see. I added it to my clamps to help prevent wood glue from sticking and it started penetrating through the glue smear buildup, but so far it hasn’t worked itself under the glue drips caught in the knurled surface of my parallel clamps. It seems to be fantastic for lubrication, but long term effects I cannot say.
No, it wasn’t that product.
Do you like that Wen Grinder? What about the tubes? Or was the description of the manufacture the info?
@@alberttreado3713 Hey Albert. It’s still a little soon to say about the Grinder. I don’t follow your second question.
@@MyGrowthRings you talked about info on the tubes. Maybe even replacements?
@@alberttreado3713 Sorry, I guess that was an incomplete thought! I meant to say, after talking about the new Stainless Steel tubes that if you need a replacement set you might want to upgrade to the Stainless Steel ones.
At the very end, did the next handle on your 3-handle quill smack the back of your hand? If so, that would be an argument for the one handle quill. Just sayin'. Have a good day, Scott.
@@mikeking7470 No, it was a single handle lever. I loosened the quill lock and the quill did not snap back, and I remembered that I was using the depth stop to keep the quill out. When I loosened it, I forgot about that stupid lever, but it reminded me of itself very quickly!
When tightening your headstock lock, my handle ends up in the same place as yours, pointing directly at the speed dial. Do you find that annoying like I do? When using the speed dial I'm constantly pinching or hitting my fingers on the lock handle as I rotate the speed dial.
@@sandiegodan I can see that. I guess I’ve just gotten used to it, but I could see how it would be annoying.
I am not sure why everyone wants to reinvent the wheel. A carnuba based floor paste wax is all that SS has ever supplied with the MK series tools. It was Johnson's in the beginning. I don't know when or why SS changed from Johnson's but the help kit I got with my new 510 in 1994 had Trewax in it. I still have half a can. The current help kit contains Minwax paste wax. These three waxes have worked just fine for 70 years. The fact that Johnson's is no longer available is not the end of the world. Just buy a can of Trewax or Minwax and don't worry about it.
Yeah, That's what I did, I settled on the Tread, from what I could see it had a very similar composition as Johnson's Paste wax, but with carnauba wax added, which is a good wax.
Bowling alley wax?
@@davidjanis1997 Yep, it’s a thing.
Why don’t you use Waxlit, it’s better than Johnson’s wax.
Hey Walt, I don't use it because I've never heard of it. Do you use it? It's interesting that the MSDS discloses that it contains mica and silica. I've seen mica being used as an anti-seize, but when silica is used as a lubricant it is usually blended with a base oil. Do you know what the base carrier it uses? Scott
@@MyGrowthRings I believe they use kerosine. I have used Waxilit as a glue resist when glueing up joints, it may be cleaned with alcohol. It's easy to apply however it requires careful clean up. It's a good product, I am surprised you haven't heard of it, been around a long time.